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54 ❘ SPECIALTY MAGAZINE ❘ specialtyfood.com The American Cure Across the country, artisanal domestic cured are revolutionizing the industry. by Kristen Bieler

f you’ve noticed charcuterie cases becoming more crowded lately, you’re I not seeing things. “What has happened to cheese in this country over the past 20 years is what is happening with charcuterie now,” says Michael Giarraputo, director of sales and marketing for Fra’ Mani Handcrafted Foods, Berkeley, Calif., founded by Paul Bertolli in 2005. The company’s hand- stuffed and Old World–style Italian mortadellas and pancettas are working their way into gourmet shops and mainstream grocers across the country, challenging the deli counter dominance of what Giarraputo calls “the big three”: roast , roast turkey and cooked .

PHOTOS: MARK FERRI; FOOD STYLED BY LESLIE ORLANDINI; PROPS STYLED BY FRAN MATALON-DEGNI

Opposite page (clockwise from left): Belmont Butchery Duck , Larchmont Charcuterie Saucisson, Kissel’s Cherry Fennel Jam, Formaggio Kitchen’s , Jennifer’s Homemade Flatbreads, Fatted Calf Fegatelli and Petit Sec.

This page: Alexian Pâté & Terrines’ Duck Rillette (left), Low Country Produce Pickled (right) MAY/JUNE 2012 55 Quality Bakers Since 1913

FOODS IN FOCUS For Alexian Pâté & Terrines, Neptune, N.J., it’s a dream realized. “We opened in 1982 with the mission of introducing Every DELI needs this European-style products to Americans who, at the time, would only buy , liverwurst and olive loaf,” says Laurie Cummins, TRIO OF OLD-WORLD BREADS president of Alexian Pâté. Today she struggles to keep up with Remember the Rubschlager Rye-Ola® Breads - demand, and sales grow rapidly every year. “In addition to becoming Great for every day! more adventurous, consumers have become so much more interested in the wholesomeness and the nutritional value as well as the geo- graphic origin of the meat products they buy.”

The Rise of Boutique Producers The locavore, artisanal movement has been booming, as many small producers, from Iowa to New York City, enter the cured-meat busi- ness. Ted Matern, co-owner of Blue Apron Foods, Brooklyn, N.Y., says the evolution has been dramatic. “There’s been an explosion in the number of small produc- ers offering artisanal charcuterie that simply didn’t exist when we opened ten years ago,” he says. While Blue Apron Foods still sells

Diets rich in whole grain foods and other plant foods many imported cured meats, it’s the close-to-home, boutique pur- and low in total fat, saturated fat, and cholesterol, (773) 826-1245 veyors that are driving growth, particularly the French-inspired, all- may reduce the risk of heart disease. Chicago, IL natural, nitrate-free Larchmont Charcuterie from upstate New York www.RubschlagerBaking.com and pâtés and terrines from Le Bec Fin in New Jersey. Interestingly, Summer Fancy Food Show Booth 1422 despite domestic charcuterie tending to be more expensive, these are some of Blue Apron’s most popular items. The same is true at Red, White & Bleu in Falls Church, Va., Delicae Gourmet a specialty food shop co-founded in 2008 by James Roth. Local SLOW COOKER DINNERS & SOUPS favorites include Virginia’s Olli Salumeria as well as Red Apron 26 All Natural Varieties Delicious Year-Round Meals Butchery, the creation of chef Nate Anda, who uses only Virginia- Budget-Friendly Healthy & Flavorful and Maryland-raised . But while the demand for organic Serves 8 - 11 5 Minute Prep Time No Added 19 Gluten-Free Flavors

800-942-2502 [email protected] www.DelicaeGourmet.com Fatted Calf Craft Beer Summer Fancy Food Show Booth 4707 56 ❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE ❘ specialtyfood.com and pasture-fed animals has never been greater, Roth maintains, “the first thing customers ask for is to taste something delicious. That’s what people will pay a premium for.” Matern agrees that in his customers’ minds, quality is still the most important factor. With passion for the craft and technical know-how at an all-time high, even among start-up producers, the quality is indeed there.

DIY Charcuterie Heather Bailie, director of operations at Fatted Calf Charcuterie, Napa, Calif., has seen interest in the “how-to” of charcuterie produc- tion inflate along with sales. “When the owners started doing this in 2004, there were only a handful of people making small-batch charcuterie,” Bailie says. “Today, it seems like every restaurant has an in-house charcuterie program.” The much-acclaimed Fatted Calf started receiving a steady stream of resumes in 2007; Bailie devel- oped a stage program to accommodate all the people who wanted to learn her trade. More and more specialty food and shops have jumped into the business themselves, developing in-house charcuterie pro- grams. Julie Biggs, charcutier at Formaggio Kitchen, Cambridge, Mass., sees a sales boom overall in the cured-meat department— From top: Schoolhouse Kitchen Squadrilla Chutney, D’Artagnan Smoked Duck Breast, imports, too, but the real interest is in the house-made charcuterie. Formaggio Kitchen Duck Pastrami Her production has tripled in the past few years. “The charcuterie consumer is hugely interested in where the meat is from and how the was raised,” Biggs says. “We can answer those questions “Smoked duck breast and duck prosciutto because we made the product.” “I would love to see how the sales of sausage-grinding equip- are really growing, and merguez— ment have increased,” says Ariane Daguin, owner of cured-meat spicy lamb sausage—has emerged as supplier D’Artagnan, Newark, N.J., who has seen her raw-meat sales a best seller, particularly for the growing skyrocket as a result of the do-it-yourself charcuterie movement. market that doesn’t eat pork.” “We used to only sell the middle meats, but today small restaurants and shops are buying all the other parts of the to make their own rillettes, terrines and head cheese. We’ve had a huge surge in raw that relies entirely on local animals, often heritage breeds. heritage and Berkshire pork.” Aside from the environmental and feel-good aspect, this increased focus on super-fresh local meat results in a better end The Pig Next Door product. “I really let the pork shine through and don’t hide its flavor The locavore meat trend went into high gear in 2006, says Tanya with much spice or other flavors,” Cauthen explains. Formaggio Cauthen, owner of Belmont Butchery, Richmond, Va., with the Kitchen’s Biggs claims it’s actually made her job easier. “My char- publication of Michael Pollan’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma—the same cuterie recipes have gotten much simpler,” she says, “as I focus more year Cauthen opened her shop, whose 4-foot charcuterie case now on the meat and minimal seasoning.” contains more than 120 offerings. Enthusiasm spilled over into char- It makes good business sense, too, says D’Artagnan’s Daguin. cuterie roughly two years ago. “We don’t import much meat because the regulations are so strict “The common-man awareness of food has increased logarith- and it is so expensive to get it here. We try to source as closely as mically,” Cauthen says. “There has always been a locavore com- possible to home for economic and environmental reasons,” she munity, but when the general populace became aware, it [had] cre- says. Daguin makes some exceptions, such as Berkshire raised ated major demand for the kinds of meats and charcuterie we sell.” by farmers at the foot of the Ozark Mountains in Missouri. “The Belmont Butchery, which Cauthen describes as “a full European land there lends itself to exceptionally well and there break-down butcher shop,” has developed a charcuterie program is a long-standing tradition there. I’m not going to ask my Amish

MAY/JUNE 2012 57 FOODS IN FOCUS chicken farmers in Pennsylvania to start raising pigs.” The locavore angle provides great merchandising opportunities too. Fatted Calf’s San Francisco outlet hosts “Pork Happy Hour,” during which customers can watch Bailie and her break down a pig, while sampling beer from several local breweries. Bailie brings the presentation full circle, infusing a sausage link with local craft beer. “Tying in with other local purveyors really drives our sales,” she adds.

CHARCUTERIE SIDEKICKS uch like charcuterie itself, its accompaniments have seen Ma dramatic increase in variety and quality, and artisanal is king. “There is a whole new generation of people making their own charcuterie, so it’s really nice to have more locally crafted accompaniments to offer along with them,” says Ted Matern of Blue Apron Foods, Brooklyn, N.Y. Some charcutiers are purists. “All you need is some preserved vegetable and a good mustard,” says Julie Biggs of Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge, Mass. “Artisanal pickles are great for mousses and pâtés when you need some acidity and crunch.” Others like to steer their customers toward more exotic condiments. “The sweet-savory trend is still hot,” Matern notes. Summer Fancy Food Show Booth 905 “And people are much more adventurous with the combinations

Visit us at Expo West, they will try.” Lately, sweet conserves, preserved fruits and chutneys are big sellers with his smoked meats. booth #3467. James Roth of Red, White & Bleu, in Falls Church, INSPIRED Va., has witnessed a trend toward spicier accompaniments, particularly fiery chutneys and pepper jellies, while Camille HEALTHFUL Collins of Les Trois Petits Cochons calls out pickled foods and VERIFIED fruit compotes. Introducing our new line of third-party verifi ed Non-GMO and Vegan water crackers. Here are just some producers around the country offering top- tier products that pair with charcuterie. Find more by searching the Product Finder at specialtyfood.com. Blue Ridge Jams: conserves, jellies, pickles; blueridgejams.com Boat Street Pickles: pickles, pickled figs, raisins and fruits; boatstreetpickles.com The Gracious Gourmet: chutneys, fruit spread; thegraciousgourmet.com ORIGINAL CRACKED PEPPERCORN BASIL & ROASTED PEPPER OLIVE OIL & SEA SALT TOASTED SESAME Jennifer’s Homemade: flatbreads, breadsticks; The sophisticated fl avors, all natural ingredients, and distinctive hexagon jennifershomemade.com shape of Mariner’s new water crackers enhance any dining experience. McClure’s Pickles: pickles, relish; mcclurespickles.com ■ Non-GMO verifi ed ■ Saturated and trans fat free ■ Vegan verifi ed ■ Five delicious fl avors Rustic Bakery: crackers, flatbreads, lavash, crostini; rusticbakery.com Schoolhouse Kitchen: mustards, chutneys, spreadable fruits; schoolhousekitchen.com The Virginia Chutney Company: sweet and savory Better-for-you snack crackers www.venuswafers.com chutneys; virginiachutney.com

Summer Fancy Food Show Booth 1001 58 ❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE ❘ specialtyfood.com Bringing Fat Back cheese and esoteric terrines are up as “people venture out of their Many nutrition-savvy Americans seem to have lost their fear of fat, comfort zone a little more confidently,” she says. Rillettes, which Biggs says, a trend that makes her exceedingly happy. She makes used to be off-putting to some, need only the slightest hand-sell pancetta with a particularly fatty Vermont ; while custom- today. “I tell people it’s simply a meat—let it come to room tempera- ers used to prefer more meat in their pancetta, they now reach for ture and mash the fat on top into the meat. Then they are hooked.” her fattier version. Like many up-and-coming domestic charcutiers, Belmont “People understand the value of fat in quality meat. They realize Butchery produces guanciale, an uncured Italian-style bacon made the flavor can be superior and that they just need to use a little less,” with pig jowls. Cauthen describes it as “piggy gummy bears.” It Biggs explains. Though it isn’t best for the bottom line, Cauthen can be sliced thin and served on a charcuterie platter, but it’s more often encourages her customers to buy smaller amounts of her fatty traditionally served as lardoons in , for example. “So meats than they intended: “The fattier the meat, the less you need of many recipes call for guanciale, and chefs were forced to substitute it. Our pancetta is at least 50 percent fat, but it’s meant to be a punc- pancetta because it wasn’t previously available,” Cauthen notes. tuation mark, a flavor enhancer, not the main meat. Nobody needs Non-pork charcuterie sales have seen a boom, D’Artagnan’s to eat a half-pound of pork belly—they need 2 ounces.” Daguin reports. “Smoked duck breast and duck prosciutto are Bailie, too, has seen consumers’ attitude about animal fat really growing,” she notes. “And merguez—spicy lamb sausage—has evolve. “People are less afraid of fat. They understand that duck emerged as a best seller, particularly for the growing market that confit is very healthy fat, for example; my customers are raising their doesn’t eat pork.” Les Trois Petits Cochons’ sales reveal shoppers kids on it,” she notes. “Fat carries flavor so well. Whatever you are branching out into less-familiar meats, says marketing director curing or with it, the flavor will shine through. Our bacon is Camille Collins. Sales of rillettes de canard, smoked duck breast super fatty and we sell tons every week.” and duck leg confit are booming, and to provide more pork-free options, the company recently introduced three new - Exotic Meats in the Spotlight free, pork-free at San Francisco’s Winter Fancy Food Similar to a changed attitude about fat, Americans have become less Show: Merguez, Chicken Andouille and Chicken with Spinach & squeamish about other meats. Cauthen’s sales of , scrapple, head Gruyere Cheese. At Alexian, Cummins points out, “One or two of

From left: SchoolHouse Kitchen Sweet Smooth Hot Mustard, Formaggio Kitchen Pâté, Quince & Apple Shallot Confit with Red Wine, Alexian Pâté Rosemary Pâté

MAY/JUNE 2012 59 FOODS IN FOCUS

DISPLAY-WORTHY MEATS Here are some more specialty meats to use at the charcuterie or deli counter. For more products, search the Product Finder at specialtyfood.com. Abraham of North America: , other specialty meats; abraham-usa.com Busseto Foods: Italian specialty meats including dry salami, and pancetta; busseto.com Consorzio del Prosciutto di : Prosciutto di Parma; prosciuttodiparma.com Johnston County : hams, bacons, smoked duck, other specialty meats; countrycuredhams.com Fabrique Delicies: coppa, chorizo, pâtés, mousses, galantines, rillettes, sausages, smoked, dried and cured meats, foie gras; fabriquedelices.com Ham I Am: hickory-smoked meats, bone-in and boneless hams; hamiam.com Maple Leaf Farms: full line of duck products; mapleleaffarms.com Nueske’s Applewood Smoked Meats: applewood-smoked specialty meats including bacon, ham, and sausage; nueske.com La Quercia Prosciutto the more exotic SKUs, such as our Pheasant with Rosemary Pâté, will soon threaten the position of Pâté de Campagne.” It took La Quercia’s Herb Eckhouse four years of work with Missouri farmers to get the The Great Nitrate Debate population of Tamworth pig—an endangered In the quest for healthier, natural products, many consumers breed known for the sweetness of its fat—large express concern over nitrates. “I hear customers ask about nitrates all the time, but the reality is that for anything smoked, hung and enough to start commercially selling raw not cooked, I believe a small amount is necessary to inhibit mold Tamworth bacon and breed-specific prosciutto. growth,” says Formaggio Kitchen’s Biggs, who uses the minimum amount to get her products to come out the way she wants. Cauthen, 1,000 pounds of pork each Wednesday; by Sunday all has been pre- too, notes that customer inquiries about nitrates have increased, pared and sold, and the process starts again with fresh meat. Expect but argues that people don’t really understand the role they play. shorter shelf lives from artisanal products: Bailie recommends four “Do I love nitrates? No. But do I like botulism? Nitrates are a natu- days for fresh sausage and two weeks for smoked products. rally occurring element, and we only use trace amounts,” she says. D’Artagnan’s nitrate- and preservative-free pâtés and some Occasionally, Cauthen does make a nitrate-free bacon; most custom- meats may have a shorter shelf life than some competitors, which ers, however, don’t like the color (without nitrates, it won’t stay ) Daguin is fine with. “Who wants a meat that will keep for a year?” and the flavor is notably different. she contends. “We want to believe our products are so good that “Nitrates are in wine, soil, spinach—they occur naturally in 15 days in a refrigerator is all they need.” At Red, White & Bleu, many things we consume,” Bailie reminds her patrons at Fatted James Roth purchased a FoodSaver vacuum-sealing system to give Calf. Mass-produced, commercial products, however, she notes, the meats a longer shelf life in his store, while still accommodating may employ higher amounts. “It is common for large-scale, factory- customers’ desire to sample products. produced charcuterie products to use a lot more than A handful of producers are working with natural substitutes. small suppliers like us; it lengthens shelf life and covers up imper- Fra’ Mani eschews synthetic nitrates in favor of celery salt and fections or not-totally-fresh raw ingredients.” Fatted Calf receives celery juice, and as a result products must be labeled as “uncured,” (continued on p. 94) 60 ❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE ❘ specialtyfood.com SPECIAL MARKETPLACE ADVERTISING SECTION

(continued from p. 60) FOODS IN FOCUS specialtyfood.com/wnwh which Michael Giarraputo argues is unclear to the con- what’s hot natural/organic sumer. “Consumers are con- fused by this forced labeling; it could imply the products are unsafe,” he explains. “Even retailers aren’t all aware of the distinction, so it’s a real edu- Pasta Carbonara with cation battle.” Belmont Butchery guanciale Iowa’s much-hyped La Quercia has been dry-curing

Gourmet Sea Foodservice Wing without nitrates since its start in 2000. The art of dry-curing—an

The Spice Lab Wing-Time, Inc. Over 180 salts from around the globe, Wing-Time’s authentic Buffalo wing ancient process that involves the meat and then keeping the largest selection of gourmet sea sauces in gallon sizes for all your food- it in a cool room to age, often as long as six months to a year or salts from a single source. Plus pep- service needs. Flavors include; Mild per, peppercorns and pepper spice with Parmesan, Medium, Hot, Garlic more—wasn’t happening in the U.S., recalls La Quercia’s founder blends—new tastes, flavors and with Parmesan and Super Hot (with aromas abound. 4- and 8-oz. jars, 12 habanero peppers). Gluten-free, sugar- Herb Eckhouse; the only domestic charcuterie available at that per case. free, all-natural & preservative-free. time was cooked or fermented. Eckhouse found a way to dry out

the moisture that supports bacteria, which doesn’t require nitrates, beyond those naturally occurring in salt. But regardless of whether

954.275.4478 970.871.1198 they are synthetic, from celery juice or in salt, Eckhouse explains thespicelab.com wingtime.com Ft. Lauderdale, FL Steamboat Springs, CO that many nitrates are consumed by bacteria during the curing [email protected] [email protected] process, so the finished products of most artisanal producers have

negligible amounts.

Booth 5524 The Pedigree Pig Eckhouse is far more interested in talking about breeds. “In Iowa we

what’s hot Co-Packing

Travel Chocolate LLC have a lot of pigs and not a lot of people, so we knew our product had Co-packing & private label manufacture to be good enough for people on both coasts to want,” he says. The for small & large runs. Chocolate for

, , or manufacture. quest for quality has made him obsessed with select breeds of pigs; it

718.841.7030, ext. 2 took four years of work with Missouri farmers to get the population travelchocolate.com of Tamworth pig—an endangered breed known for the sweetness of New York, NY

[email protected] its fat—large enough to start commercially selling his raw Tamworth Facebook: Travel Chocolate LLC bacon (which can be served uncooked) and breed-specific prosciutto. La Quercia’s Acorn Edition Meats are made from free-roaming Iberico and Tamworth pigs fed on a diet of acorns and hickory

Plastic Food Packaging nuts. To develop these meats, Eckhouse borrowed a few ideas Tech II, Inc. Tech II, Inc. specializes in high quality from Europe, specifically how the Iberico de Bellota is made in of plastic food packag- ing. A family owned and operated Spain. The quality of his American-produced meat “expresses itself injection molding company since through the drying process,” he says, and the end result is “an intense 1969, Tech II is expanding and is now the first American Company capable savory-sweet flavor with nice caramel notes on the finish.” of Thermoforming In-Mold Labeling. Decoration also available. Eckhouse is one of the many producers who believe the appeal of artisanal meats will continue to grow. And while much of the focus

937.398.7323 is on local and uncommon products, for Eckhouse, it all comes back techii.com to the taste. “As people try new things and their taste buds acclimate Springfield, OH GET MORE INFORMATION [email protected] to higher levels of quality, they will continue to try new and better ON ALL THESE PRODUCTS Twitter: @techii_sales cured-meat options,” he says. “It’s the evolution of taste.” |SFM| Facebook: Tech II, Inc. ONLINE AT New Member specialtyfood.com/wnwh Booth 3412 Kristen Bieler is a freelance writer and former contributor to Beverage Media, City and Food & Wine.

94 ❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE ❘ specialtyfood.com