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HOW WHISKY IS HOLDING ON TO ITS HERITAGE AS IT STEPS INTO THE FUTURE. PLUS: BREWERS & DISTILLERS GET SWEET ON HONEY | BEST BLOODY MARY MIXES | REDISCOVERING ZINFANDEL MALT MANEUVERS SCOTCH WHISKY HANGS ON TO ITS HERITAGE AS IT STEPS INTO THE FUTURE. A still at the Old Pulteney Distillery in Scotland’s Highlands region. cotch whisky has long been a regent among spirits, one of the world’s Sgreat drinks from one of the world’s most rugged and beautiful places. But while whisky’s history stretches back centuries— its story festooned with Scottish icons like pipes and tartan and heather—the spirit is increasingly aiming toward a global future. MALT We’re taking a closer look at Scotch whisky and the world it inhabits today—the people and the places creating the next chapter MANEUVERS in whisky’s story, and the reasons Scotch whisky should be the next dram in your glass. John Valls; facing page: Reuben Paris Reuben page: facing John Valls; march/april 2021 ~ imbibemagazine.com 41 This page, from left: facing Matty page: Photography; Newton, NatePaul John Padavick SCOTCH PERSPECTIVES Scotch whisky is a historical institution among spirits, but it’s not defined only by its past—the world of whisky is vast and ever changing. We asked some of today’s whisky insiders for their perspectives on the spirit and its culture. Quotes have been edited for context and clarity. Steaming a cask at The Balvenie cooperage. SCOTCH WHISKY 101 ; For a spirit with legendary com- low wines are distilled a second time line images from left: Sodacan; courtesy of the University of Libraries, Texas the University of at Texas Austin plexity and tremendous stylistic time in a smaller copper-pot spirit diversity, Scotch whisky is, at its still (a few whiskies are distilled heart, relatively simple in the way a third time), and the heart of it’s produced. this distillation is then placed Malt whisky starts with barley, into oak casks, in which the spirit which is soaked in water and then must be matured in Scotland for allowed to partially germinate a minimum of three years before over the course of several days to it can be called Scotch whisky. a week; this malting process aids (In practice, most whiskies spend the conversion of barley’s starch much, much longer in the barrels.) to fermentable sugars. To arrest In addition to malt whisky, RACHEL BARRIE germination and prepare the grain there’s grain whisky (an essential BROWN-FORMAN MASTER for use, the malted barley is then component of blended Scotch BLENDER, EDINBURGH dried in large kilns, before being whiskies), which is produced Rachel Barrie has more than 28 years ground in a mill. !e powdery grist following similar rules, with a of experience in the whisky industry, is then mixed with hot water in couple of major di"erences: #rst, starting as a research scientist at the a mash tun, which breaks down grain whiskies may use other Scotch Whisky Research Institute, the grain’s starch and produces cereals (usually wheat or corn) then working with brands including a sugar-rich liquid called wort, in addition to malted barley; and Glenmorangie, Ardbeg, Auchentoshan, which is then transferred to large second, grain whiskies are made Bowmore, and Laphroaig, before washbacks where yeast is added. on a column still (also called a assuming her current role as Brown- Inside the washback, the magic of patent still or Co"ey still), resulting Forman’s master blender for Benriach, fermentation occurs, as the yeast in a lighter character than that The GlenDronach, and Glenglassaugh converts the grain’s sugar into produced by pot stills. in 2017. alcohol, transforming the wort into Confused? !at’s wash. !e wash is then transferred understandable—check out the “It’s all about flavor, at the end of to an aptly named wash still, a graphic on page 43 to learn more the day. Single malt Scotch whisky is copper-pot still that distills it into about the relationship between following a similar path of appreciation the higher-alcohol low wines. !e malt and grain whiskies. and growth as the fine wine industry in the 1980s and 1990s, when more people around the globe started to understand, 1494 1644 ‘That’s a Chardonnay, that’s a Sauvignon Exchequer Rolls (tax Scottish Parliament Blanc, that’s a Pinot Noir. ...’ The same records) indicate introduces the first is happening with single malt—people A BRIEF "Eight bolls of malt taxes on distilling, are starting to appreciate, ‘That’s a to Friar John Cor prompting a boom in smoky whisky, that’s a Speyside whisky,’ HISTORY OF wherewith to make illegal distilling that will and the growth in connoisseurship and aqua vitae,” the go on for the following SCOTCH first documented two centuries. education has been incredible. The record of distilling world is our oyster, and we’re just at the WHISKY in Scotland. start of an incredible journey of growth for single malt.” 42 imbibemagazine.com ~ march/april 2021 malt & graIn At its most basic, Scotch whisky is a distilled spirit made of cereals, water, and yeast, distilled and matured in Scotland SINGLE MALT for at least three years in an oak cask, and bottled at a SINGLE graIn scotch whIsky minimum of 40 percent ABV. But this narrow definition still scotch whIsky leaves multiple avenues for producers (and drinkers) to Single malt Scotch explore, resulting in an expansive diversity of styles. Grain whisky is made whisky must be made at using malted barley, a single distillery using yeast, and water, but other only water, yeast, and ed scotch w cereals, such as wheat or malted barley, distilled end hIs corn, may also be used, bl ky in batches in pot stills, and grain whisky is made and bottled in Scotland. t blen using a column still. Like a al ded Long unknown outside d m g single malt, a single grain the U.K.—exports to de ra whisky must be made en In the U.S. didn’t begin in l s at a single distillery; the earnest until the 1960s— b alt ing Cameronbridge Distillery, m le single malt scotch is e g near Edinburgh, is the gl r particularly prized today, n a largest and oldest grain I I s n though overall sales are distillery in Europe, still a small fraction of producing grain whisky for those of blended Scotch scotch parent company Diageo’s whisky. blends, including Johnnie Walker, as well as the single grain whisky Haig whIsky Club. blended malt blended graIn scotch whIsky scotch whIsky What happens when single malts from differ- Grain whiskies from ent distilleries love each multiple distilleries may other very much? They be blended and bottled make a blended malt with excellent results; (formerly called “vatted Compass Box’s signature malt”). Combining the whisky, Hedonism—which best characteristics of blended changes its composition every year—is proof of multiple distilleries, scotch whIsky blended malts can be the beauty to be found in some of the most exciting blended grain whisky. (and drinkable) whis- By far the biggest-selling category of Scotch whisky, blended kies around, such as scotch can be an “all of the above” composite, featuring single malts from multiple distilleries, balanced by lighter-character Peat Monster, Monkey malted column Shoulder, and Timorous grain whiskies from one or more distilleries. Blends can be rich barley stIll Beastie. and robust, light and ethereal, or anywhere in between, depend- ing on the blender’s touch. Examples include mainstay brands like Johnnie Walker, Chivas Regal, Dewar’s, and The Famous other pot Grouse, alongside bottlings like Great King Street and Bank Note. graIns stIll 1707 1745 circa 1780 1785 The Act of Union Following the Jacobite Scotland Scottish poet is passed by the uprising, the British counts Robert Burns English and Scottish government imposes harsh 8 legal writes "Scotch Parliaments, taxes on the rebellious distilleries, Drink," a creating the United Highland region, targeting to an tribute to Kingdom of Great "sma’ " stills used by estimated whisky. Britain. British farmers to supplement 400 illegal taxation and duties their income. This further ones. further spur illicit provokes illegal distilling distilling. and smuggling in the Highlands, concentrated in the Speyside region. march/april 2021 ~ imbibemagazine.com 43 DEATH OR GLORY With so many types of Scotch whisky to choose from, it can be hard to pick just one for a cocktail. One approach is to match two styles together, such as in this cocktail, which uses a well-rounded blended malt whisky for the base, ac- cented by a rinse of an intense, peated single malt. 1½ oz. blended malt whisky (Monkey Shoulder recommended) 1½ oz. toasted coconut syrup 1 oz. fresh lemon juice ¼ oz. curaçao (Pierre Ferrand recommended) 1 fresh egg white (pasteurized if you like) 2 dashes absinthe 1 tsp. peated single malt Scotch whisky (Lady Jane uses Laphroaig 10 year old), to rinse Tools: shaker, strainer, fine strainer Glass: large coupe Rinse a large, chilled coupe glass with the peated malt whisky, discarding the excess. Combine the remaining ingredi- ents in a shaker and shake without ice until foamy. Add ice, shake again to chill, then strain into the prepared glass. Toasted Coconut Syrup: In a saute pan over medium heat, toast 1 oz. of unsweetened coconut flakes until deeply golden and aromatic, stirring constantly and taking care not to let the flakes burn. Add the toasted coconut to a small saucepan along with 12 oz. of coconut water and 6 oz. of granulated sugar, and whisk over medium heat until the sugar is fully dissolved (do not let the mixture come to a boil).