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HOW IS HOLDING ON TO ITS HERITAGE AS IT STEPS INTO THE FUTURE.

PLUS: BREWERS & DISTILLERS GET SWEET ON | BEST BLOODY MARY MIXES | REDISCOVERING ZINFANDEL MANEUVERS

SCOTCH WHISKY HANGS ON TO ITS HERITAGE AS IT STEPS INTO THE FUTURE.

A at the in ’s Highlands region. cotch whisky has long been a regent among spirits, one of the world’s Sgreat drinks from one of the world’s most rugged and beautiful places. But while whisky’s history stretches back centuries— its story festooned with Scottish icons like pipes and tartan and heather—the spirit is increasingly aiming toward a global future. MALT We’re taking a closer look at and the world it inhabits today—the people and the places creating the next chapter MANEUVERS in whisky’s story, and the reasons Scotch whisky should be the next dram in your glass. John Valls; facing page: Reuben Paris

march/april 2021 ~ imbibemagazine.com 41 This page, from left: Matty Newton, John Paul Photography; facing page: Nate Padavick John PaulNate Newton, Photography; page: Matty facing left: from page, This SCOTCH PERSPECTIVES Scotch whisky is a historical institution among spirits, but it’s not defined only by its past—the world of whisky is vast and ever changing. We asked some of today’s whisky insiders for their perspectives on the spirit and its culture. Quotes have been edited for context and clarity.

Steaming a cask at The Balvenie cooperage.

SCOTCH WHISKY 101 ;

For a spirit with legendary com- low are distilled a second Austin Texas at of University the Texas Libraries, of University the of courtesy Sodacan; left: from images line time plexity and tremendous stylistic time in a smaller copper-pot spirit diversity, Scotch whisky is, at its still (a few are distilled heart, relatively simple in the way a third time), and the heart of it’s produced. this is then placed starts with , into casks, in which the spirit which is soaked in and then must be matured in Scotland for allowed to partially germinate a minimum of three years before over the course of several days to it can be called Scotch whisky. a week; this malting process aids (In practice, most whiskies spend the conversion of barley’s starch much, much longer in the .) to fermentable sugars. To arrest In addition to malt whisky, RACHEL BARRIE germination and prepare the grain there’s (an essential -FORMAN MASTER for use, the malted barley is then component of blended Scotch BLENDER, dried in large kilns, before being whiskies), which is produced Rachel Barrie has more than 28 years ground in a mill. !e powdery grist following similar rules, with a of experience in the whisky , is then mixed with hot water in couple of major di"erences: #rst, starting as a research scientist at the a mash tun, which breaks down grain whiskies may use other Scotch Whisky Research Institute, the grain’s starch and produces cereals (usually or corn) then working with brands including a sugar-rich liquid called , in addition to malted barley; and Glenmorangie, Ardbeg, Auchentoshan, which is then transferred to large second, grain whiskies are made Bowmore, and Laphroaig, before washbacks where is added. on a (also called a assuming her current role as Brown- Inside the washback, the magic of patent still or Co"ey still), resulting Forman’s for Benriach, fermentation occurs, as the yeast in a lighter character than that The GlenDronach, and Glenglassaugh converts the grain’s sugar into produced by pot . in 2017. alcohol, transforming the wort into Confused? !at’s wash. !e wash is then transferred understandable—check out the “It’s all about flavor, at the end of to an aptly named wash still, a graphic on page 43 to learn more the day. whisky is copper- that distills it into about the relationship between following a similar path of appreciation the higher-alcohol low wines. !e malt and grain whiskies. and growth as the fine industry in the 1980s and 1990s, when more people around the globe started to understand, 1494 1644 ‘That’s a Chardonnay, that’s a Sauvignon Exchequer Rolls (tax Scottish Parliament Blanc, that’s a Pinot Noir. ...’ The same records) indicate introduces the first is happening with single malt—people A BRIEF "Eight bolls of malt taxes on distilling, are starting to appreciate, ‘That’s a to Friar John Cor prompting a boom in smoky whisky, that’s a Speyside whisky,’ HISTORY OF wherewith to make illegal distilling that will and the growth in connoisseurship and aqua vitae,” the go on for the following SCOTCH first documented two centuries. has been incredible. The record of distilling world is our oyster, and we’re just at the WHISKY in Scotland. start of an incredible journey of growth for single malt.”

42 imbibemagazine.com ~ march/april 2021 malt & graIn

At its most basic, Scotch whisky is a distilled spirit made of cereals, water, and yeast, distilled and matured in Scotland SINGLE MALT for at least three years in an oak cask, and bottled at a SINGLE graIn scotch whIsky minimum of 40 percent ABV. But this narrow definition still scotch whIsky leaves multiple avenues for producers (and drinkers) to Single malt Scotch explore, resulting in an expansive diversity of styles. Grain whisky is made whisky must be made at using malted barley, a single distillery using yeast, and water, but other only water, yeast, and scotc cereals, such as wheat or nded h whI malted barley, distilled ble sky corn, may also be used, in batches in pot stills, and grain whisky is made

and bottled in Scotland. t blen using a column still. Like a al ded Long unknown outside d m g single malt, a single grain the U.K.—exports to de ra whisky must be made en In the U.S. didn’t begin in l s at a single distillery; the earnest until the 1960s— b alt ing Cameronbridge Distillery, m le single malt scotch is e g near Edinburgh, is the gl r particularly prized today, n a largest and oldest grain I I s n though overall sales are distillery in Europe, still a small fraction of producing grain whisky for those of blended Scotch scotch parent company ’s whisky. blends, including , as as the single grain whisky whIsky Club.

blended malt blended graIn scotch whIsky scotch whIsky

What happens when single from differ- Grain whiskies from ent distilleries love each multiple distilleries may other very much? They be blended and bottled make a blended malt with excellent results; (formerly called “vatted Compass Box’s malt”). Combining the whisky, Hedonism—which best characteristics of blended changes its composition every year—is proof of multiple distilleries, scotch whIsky blended malts can be the beauty to be found in some of the most exciting blended grain whisky. (and drinkable) whis- By far the biggest-selling category of Scotch whisky, blended kies around, such as scotch can be an “all of the above” composite, featuring single malts from multiple distilleries, balanced by lighter-character Monster, Monkey malted column Shoulder, and Timorous grain whiskies from one or more distilleries. Blends can be rich barley stIll Beastie. and robust, light and ethereal, or anywhere in between, depend- ing on the blender’s touch. Examples include mainstay brands like Johnnie Walker, , Dewar’s, and The Famous other pot Grouse, alongside bottlings like Great King Street and Bank Note. graIns stIll

1707 1745 circa 1780 1785

The Act of Union Following the Jacobite Scotland Scottish poet is passed by the uprising, the British counts English and Scottish government imposes harsh 8 legal writes "Scotch Parliaments, taxes on the rebellious distilleries, Drink," a creating the United Highland region, targeting to an tribute to Kingdom of Great "sma’ " stills used by estimated whisky. Britain. British farmers to supplement 400 illegal taxation and duties their income. This further ones. further spur illicit provokes illegal distilling distilling. and smuggling in the Highlands, concentrated in the Speyside region.

march/april 2021 ~ imbibemagazine.com 43 DEATH OR GLORY

With so many types of Scotch whisky to choose from, it can be hard to pick just one for a . One approach is to match two styles together, such as in this cocktail, which uses a well-rounded for the base, ac- cented by a rinse of an intense, peated single malt.

1½ oz. blended malt whisky (Monkey Shoulder recommended) 1½ oz. toasted syrup 1 oz. fresh lemon juice ¼ oz. curaçao (Pierre Ferrand recommended) 1 fresh egg white (pasteurized if you like) 2 dashes 1 tsp. peated single malt Scotch whisky (Lady Jane uses Laphroaig 10 year old), to rinse

Tools: shaker, strainer, fine strainer Glass: large coupe

Rinse a large, chilled coupe glass with the peated malt whisky, discarding the excess. Combine the remaining ingredi- ents in a shaker and shake without ice until foamy. Add ice, shake again to chill, then strain into the prepared glass.

Toasted Coconut Syrup: In a saute pan over medium , toast 1 oz. of unsweetened coconut flakes until deeply golden and aromatic, stirring constantly and taking care not to let the flakes burn. Add the toasted coconut to a small saucepan along with 12 oz. of coconut water and 6 oz. of granulated sugar, and whisk over medium heat until the sugar is fully dissolved (do not let the mixture come to a boil). Let the syrup cool to room temperature, at least one hour, then strain through a coffee filter. Bottle for use, and keep refrigerated for up to 1 month. John Valls Stuart Weaver Lady Jane, Denver

1820 1820s 1823 1824

Kilmarnock grocer As many as 14,000 Parliament passes the Speyside farmer George John Walker illegal stills are Excise Act, making Smith is among the begins blending being confiscated it easier for legal first to take advantage malt whiskies to each year, and it's distilleries to operate. of the Excise Act when create a more estimated that Smuggling, once he becomes the first consistent product more than half of widespread, almost licensed distiller in the for his inventory. the whisky made in disappears within the parish of Glenlivet. It Scotland is produced next decade, and the will take 60 years before illicitly. modern era of Scotch his son can successfully whisky begins. trademark the name.

44 imbibemagazine.com ~ march/april 2021 SCOTCH WHISKY GLOSSARY

Whisky can seem to have its own language; here are some words that may be commonly encountered. To decipher the terminology behind terms like “single malt,” “blended malt,” and “blended scotch,” see page 43.

Left: John Valls John Left: DRAM A measure of whisky. !e term is possibly derived from the Greek drachma, which referred to both an ancient coin and weight unit. !e term was also an apothecary’s measure of 60 grains, or about one-eighth ounce— which isn’t very much whisky at all, so it’s typically interpreted today as 25

ml., or roughly a 1-ounce pour. ; illustration by Matty Newton Matty by illustration Also called cask #nishing, the practice of taking a whisky that’s been matured in a standard —typically one that was originally used to age bourbon—and brie$y aging it in another barrel that previously held , port, or another wine, , or a spirit such as rum or , to give the #nished whisky a particular $avor. BECKY PASKIN WHISKY JOURNALIST,

; FLOOR MALTING A traditional method of malting barley in which time line images from left: The Glenlivet; Sydney Young, Young, Sydney Glenlivet; The left: from images line time BRIGHTON moistened grain is spread across a malting-room $oor and repeatedly A veteran whisky journalist turned by hand as the grain germinates over the course of several days, and educator, and former before being dried in a kiln. Most modern distilleries purchase their malted editor of scotchwhisky.com, grain, but some producers, including !e Balvenie, Springbank, Laphroaig, Becky Paskin is a co-founder and Highland Park, maintain the practice. of OurWhisky, a project championing diversity in the HEART MALT In a blended whisky, the heart malt is the single malt that whisky industry, and challenging forms the foundational $avor against which the other whiskies in the blend outdated stereotypes in whisky are arrayed, and which gives the #nished blend its signature style. marketing. MALT Malt is both whisky’s base ingredient—barley that’s been moistened “I co-founded OurWhisky in and allowed to partially germinate, preparing for the conversion of its starch 2018 with [whisky ambassador] to fermentable sugars, before being kiln-dried—and the product of the pro- Georgie Bell, because we cess: the whisky made using only malted barley, water, and yeast, distilled in were both tired of being asked a pot still, and aged a minimum of three years in an oak cask. in our work, ‘Do you like Fractional Distillation Fractional whisky? Is it even something PEAT Partially decayed , typically found in . Long you know about?’ There’s a used as a source, peat was traditionally used to dry malted barley prior deep-rooted perception of to fermentation, imparting its intense smoke into the grain (and, as a re- whisky as a man’s drink going sult, the whisky). Most single malts today are made without the use of peat, back to Scotch whisky’s early days, and advertising towards

, Macmillan and Co. (1903). though peated malts are widely used as a component in blends. men—the perception that it’s UISGE BEATHA Scottish Gaelic for the Latin aqua vitae, the French really only enjoyed by men, and eau de vie, and the English water of life. Pronounced oosh-gy bah, the term is a masculine drink, part of a believed to have been Anglicized into the modern word “whisky.” boys’ club. In the last few years, I’ve seen that imagery change a lot, but there’s still a long way to go. There still needs to be better representation of 1831 1853 women and people of color in whisky marketing—people are Scotsman Aeneas Andrew Usher introduces only going to be interested in Coffey invents his Usher's Old Vatted purchasing something if they the patent still, Glenlivet, considered the a column that first brand of blended see themselves represented in enables continuous Scotch whisky. the product’s marketing.” distillation. This leads to the production of grain whisky.

march/april 2021 ~ imbibemagazine.com 45 WHISKY'S

HIGHLAND HOME TURF PARK ILLUSTRATION BY NATE PADAVICK

Pulteney

ABHAINN DEARG

GLENMORANGIE

speyburn

MACALLAN

THE BALVENIE

THE GLENLIVET

NC’NEAN

JURA

ARRAN LAPHROAIG

SPRINGBANK

ANNANDALE cotland has more than 130 distilleries, from Annandale near the Anglo-Scottish Sborder to Highland Park and Scapa Malts such as Ardbeg, Laphroaig, on the northern archipelago of Orkney. and Lagavulin have put this small The Scotch Whisky Association divides the Inner Hebrides island on whisky drinkers’ map for their big, brawling smokiness and country into five regions, and a particular their nuanced, briny maritime character. Peat smoke whisky’s place of origin can contribute has long defined malts, but makers such as Bunnahabhain, Bruichladdich (a historic distillery that greatly to its character—through the effects was revived in 2001), and newcomer Kilchoman (2005) of local water, and the microclimate where demonstrate delicate touches (and, in some cases, skip a whisky is made and matured. Scotch peat altogether), underscoring Islay’s role as an essential region. whisky’s popularity has waxed and waned over the years, and today’s boom cycle has = 5 = 2 = 2 resulted in a number of once-shuttered distilleries being revived, and new distilleries opening alongside heritage fixtures. The smallest of the whisky regions, on the Kintyre Peninsula, Campbeltown was once home to 30 distilleries. That count is now down to three—Springbank, Glen Scotia, and Glengyle The largest of the five regions (shuttered in 1925, it reopened in 2004)—and the (and encompassing Scotland’s whiskies from the region demonstrate a beguiling mix islands, with the exception of of soft fruitiness mixed with and smoke. Islay), the Highlands region is home to around 50 distilleries, such as Glenmorangie, Oban, and The Dalmore on the mainland, and Highland Park, Jura, 1 1 1 and Talisker on the islands. The region’s home to = = = some of Scotland’s oldest distilleries (Glenturret and Balblair), as well as some of its newest, including Torabhaig and Nc’nean. These producers make a dazzling array of styles—some full-bodied and More than 50 distilleries are heathery, others light and fruity, and still others sweet clustered in this narrow region and smoky—influenced by its landscape of mountains, named for the River Spey, making moors, and coastline. it a whisky drinker’s paradise. A honeyed, fruity complexity runs throughout Speyside whiskies, and single malts include some of Scotland’s biggest sellers = 22 = 11 = 18 (The Glenlivet, Glenfiddich, Aberlour, The Balvenie, and The Macallan), as well as much-loved names, including Glenfarclas, Speyburn, Mortlach, Cardhu, and Dalwhinnie. The southernmost region has long been home to only a few 35 11 6 distilleries, including = = = Auchentoshan, Bladnoch, and Glenkinchie; recently, however, new or revived distilleries, such as Daftmill and The Glasgow Distillery, have expanded the Lowland ranks. For years, Lowland whiskies were largely unpeated and had a lighter and grassier character, making them favorites among blenders, but Distilleries in operation today’s distillers such as Annandale (reopened in 2007) since at least 1990 and Ailsa Bay (opened in 2007) have also embraced peat, expanding the region’s stylistic palette. Distilleries “mothballed” during whisky’s late 20th century slump, but operating today

= 6 = 2 = 20 New distilleries that have opened since 1990 or are currently in development

march/april 2021~ imbibemagazine.com 47 The Speyburn Distillery in Speyside.

WHISKY FUTURES ANNABEL MEIKLE Early Scottish distillers dried their while distilleries have outpaced their KEEPERS OF THE malt using burning peat, the fuel own goals thus far (they surpassed QUAICH, EDINBURGH source created over thousands their objective to source 20 percent A former brand ambassador for of years by the accumulation of of primary energy requirements from The Glenmorangie Company partially decayed $ora. Peat non-fossil by 2020 four years and veteran of the Scotch Malt still factors into the whisky-making early), they’ve also made advances Whisky Society, Annabel Meikle process (in a much more targeted that could resonate throughout the is now director of Keepers of way), but such a reliance on fossil drinks sector. A group of companies the Quaich, an exclusive society fuels is increasingly antithetical to including Chivas Brothers, Diageo, that recognizes outstanding today’s whisky producers, who are Campari, and Benriach, for example, commitment to the Scotch setting new standards for the spirits worked in a joint venture to install a whisky industry. Founded in industry in ways to reduce their cli- that uses by-products 1988, the organization has mate footprint and achieve greater from 16 Speyside distilleries to members in more than 100 sustainability. create and reduce countries. According to the Scotch Whisky emissions. “Nobody picks up a glass of Association, in 2009 producers More recently, the Bruichladdich scotch and just goes, ‘Eh …’— introduced the Scotch Whisky distillery on Islay (the only Scottish Industry Environmental Strategy, distillery to be a certi#ed B Corp,

you either love it, or you hate it. Reuben Paris,Newton, JohnMatty Vallsleft: From It has a very visceral reaction a wide-ranging initiative targeting meeting the highest standards of for people, it’s powerful and water use, energy e%ciency, social and environmental perfor- very complex; you don’t have alternative fuel sources, product mance) is aiming to decarbonize the same reaction when you packaging, and the sustainable its production process by 2025. put your nose in a glass of sourcing of wood for oak casks. !e Earlier this year, the distillery began . And there’s the absolute association revisited this program participating in a feasibility study romance of it: I used to travel in 2016, adding sustainable land called HyLaddie, looking into the all around the world, 130 days use and the restoration of peat incorporation of hydrogen com- a year, and I missed my home. to the agenda. Energy use, bustion technology to meet the Sometimes in the evening, and an e"ort to reduce the reliance distillery’s heating needs, with the I’d go to the hotel bar and on fossil fuels, is one of the core potential of ultimately replacing the have a dram on my own, and components of the strategy—and use of fuel oil. wherever I was in the world, it grounded me back in Scotland. It’s like meeting a friend that 1860 1867 1880s–early 1900s you haven’t seen in ages—the Gladstone's Spirit Act Alexander Walker (son Blenders and bottlers whiskies have real personalities, legalizes the practice of John) launches including James and they each have their own of blending whisky in a commercial Buchanan, Tommy nature.” bonded warehouses, blend called "Old Dewar, and James opening the door for Highland Whisky" Chivas further extend the blending of grain and convinces ship the whisky market and malt whiskies captains to carry the throughout the British together to produce whisky wherever they empire and into the a consistent and very sail, helping to create Americas, Asia, and drinkable product. a global market. Africa.

48 imbibemagazine.com ~ march/april 2021 ISLAY DAIQUIRI

Islay is an island off Scotland’s western coast, renowned for its smoky, peaty single malts. And what’s the perfect island drink? A Daiquiri. This cocktail matches smoky scotch with pineapple rum, and a coconut-tea syrup ties it all together. (Scotch Lodge sources its tea for this syrup from teachaite.com.)

1 oz. peated single malt Scotch whisky (Scotch Lodge uses Ardbeg) 1 oz. Stiggins Fancy pineapple rum ¾ oz. fresh lime juice ½ oz. coconut oolong syrup 2 drops Bittermens tiki bitters

Tools: shaker, strainer Glass: coupe Garnish: grated

Shake all of the ingredients together with ice to chill, strain into a chilled glass, then garnish.

Coconut-Oolong Syrup: Steep 10 grams of coconut-oolong tea in 1 cup of hot water for 8 minutes, then strain. Mix 2 parts demerara sugar to 1 part tea, and blend until sugar dissolves. Keeps refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.

Jessica Braasch Scotch Lodge Portland, Oregon

1880s 1909 1912

Phylloxera devastates George Walker and In response to rising taxes European vineyards, Alexander Walker II and global expansion, disrupting wine and (grandsons of John) brand owners representing production; commission a popular more than 90 percent thirsty consumers illustrator to create a of whisky production increasingly turn "Striding Man" logo establish the Wine & Spirit to spirits including for Johnnie Walker, Brand Association. Scotch whisky. and rename their new blended whisky lines after the colors of their red and black labels.

march/april 2021 ~ imbibemagazine.com 49 Illustration: Matty Newton; facing page, clockwise from top left: Mariah Hanna, Lani Sickman, Mariah Hanna, Bill Adams; time line images from left: Courtesy of Nikka; by Colin Kinnear Colin by Distillery Tullibardine Nikka; of Courtesy left: from images line time Adams; Bill Hanna, Mariah Sickman, Lani Hanna, Mariah left: top from clockwise page, facing Newton; Matty Illustration: WHISKY DENS Scotland’s native spirit has an enthusiastic global following. Here are just a few of the many bars and retailers worldwide who have a special love for Scotch whisky.

BAR HIGH FIVE BON ACCORD Tokyo Glasgow Cocktail lovers worldwide have been What began in 1971 as a pub in Glasgow’s familiar with Hidetsugu Ueno’s bar since Charing Cross area specializing in real its 2008 debut. In 2015, the bar moved ale has since morphed into a world-class from its matchbox-size space high whisky bar (and an organizer of Glasgow’s above the Ginza district to a slightly Whisky Festival), with more than 400 malt more expansive basement room, but the whiskies in its selection. With its Glasgow immaculate selection of spirits, including home, Bon Accord is situated in a city at more than 200 Scotch whiskies, remains a the center of today’s new-distillery boom, focal point. barhigh!ve.com and regulars participate in the whisky clubs hosted by the pub, including its own Bon BAXTER INN Accord Whisky Society. bonaccordpub.com Sydney In a subterranean space hidden away CASK CAMERON in Sydney’s Central Business District, San Francisco / Berkeley GEORGE Baxter Inn houses what’s likely the With its $agship store in downtown San ARDBEG AMBASSADOR, best whisky selection in Australia, with Francisco, a North Beach pop-up location, SEATTLE ample enthusiasm shown for spirits from and a sibling shop in Berkeley, Cask has Cameron George is a longtime Scotland. A behind-the-bar blackboard long been an essential shop for Bay Area bartender who’s now national lists many of the whisky options, or spirits enthusiasts. Cask’s targeted spirits brand ambassador for considering the bar’s reputation as a selection places a priority on whiskies from Ardbeg. As a speaker at bar- cocktail destination, opt for something independent bottlers, as well as single-cask industry events like Gimme like the Hop Scotch, a bottled mixture whiskies and blended malts. “Most of our Brown, George is working to including blended Scotch whisky and regulars know that we really strive to select spread the love for Scotch hopped wine. thebaxterinn.com bottles that are o" the beaten path, and whisky while encouraging the from smaller producers, or bottles that whisky industry to talk about BINNY’S BEVERAGE DEPOT we're personally excited about,” says Nat some of the less-explored Chicago Harry, Cask’s spirits specialist. caskstore.com corners of its history and the It’s not surprising that one of the nation’s need to expand its diversity. biggest stores carries a stupendous DELILAH’S Chicago “That traditional marketing selection of scotch. But the magnitude that scotch is to be enjoyed in of Binny’s selection goes beyond simple !is is not Scotch whisky’s stereotyped a Glencairn or snifter glass, quantity (though, with more than 700 home of a wood-paneled club #lled with [while you’re] wearing a single malts on o"er, quantity is still a leather armchairs. Delilah’s brings a relaxed- suit and tie or a big draw); whisky runs through Binny’s yet-ardent dive bar aesthetic to its approach, jacket and sitting in a high- veins, and between its dedicated category- with an inventory that’s the envy of bar back leather chair, it’s spanning Whiskey Hotline and its owners worldwide, making it one of the just antiquated. The set of selection of rare bottles, Scotch whisky has world’s great whisky bars. !e selection of Scotch whisky consumers is a happy home in the Midwest. binnys.com single-cask malts from independent bottlers diversifying itself—it’s getting and blended malts are worth checking out, younger and more inclusive. including one particular option: a Compass And the diversity of whisky Box blend made in collaboration with the itself is enormous; there are bar. delilahschicago.com around 140 distilleries in Scotland at this point, using different water sources and 1915 1918 1933 cask regimens. That flavor diaspora is so vast, the styles The Immature Spirits Masataka Taketsuru, U.K. law are so differing, there truly (Restriction) Act is the son of a sake defines passed following brewer, comes to Scotch are multiple whiskies for the outbreak of Scotland to study whisky for everybody.” World War I. The distilling; after returning the first first regulation on home to Japan, he uses time. the aging of scotch, these lessons to help it bans the sale of establish the Japanese spirits aged less whisky industry and than three (initially later founds his own two) years. brand, Nikka.

50 imbibemagazine.com ~ march/april 2021 Clockwise from this photo: Cask in San Francisco; a Penicillin cocktail at The Baxter Inn in Sydney; Multnomah Whiskey Library in Portland, Oregon; bring on the bottles in Baxter Inn’s Whisky Room.

1942 1947 1963 1980

The Wine & Welsh engineer Sandy Grant The single- Spirit Brand William Delmé- Gordon, great malt market Association Evans acquires the grandson of William begins to changes its Tullibardine brewery Grant, begins grow, with name to the and converts it to a global distribution a total of 27 Scotch Whisky distillery using his of Glenfiddich (then available. By Association. own modern design; sold as "Straight the end of the his work influences Malt"), the first decade, there most distillery single malt to be will be 104 construction in widely marketed single malts coming years. outside of Scotland. in distribution.

march/april 2021 ~ imbibemagazine.com 51 Clockwise from this photo: Beverage director Andy Bixby at Jack Rose Dining Saloon in Washington, D.C.; the Bobby Burns at Multnomah Whiskey Library; scotch service at The Flatiron Room in New York City.

1983 1988 1994

An overconfidence in The Scotch Whisky The whisky industry production, coupled Act updates the celebrates the 500th with an economic legal definition of anniversary of whisky downturn, results in Scotch whisky. production in Scotland; that the "whisky loch," same year, global whisky which leads Distillers exports break the £2 billion Company Limited to threshold for the first time. shut down more than a dozen distilleries, including Port Ellen.

52 imbibemagazine.com ~ march/april 2021 WHISKY DENS CONTINUED DUNDEE DELL selection of spirits from around the world, Omaha including a deep bench of Scottish malts. Illustration: Matty Newton; facing page, clockwise from top left: Courtesy of The Flatiron Room, Scott Suchman, Jordan Hughes; time line images from left: Ayack, Arran Ayack, left: from images line time Hughes; Jordan Suchman, Scott Room, Flatiron The of Courtesy left: top from clockwise page, facing Newton; Matty Illustration: An Omaha watering hole that #rst opened in Dig into the range of bottles from the Scotch 1920 as Dundee Delicatessen, Dundee Dell Malt Whisky Society, featuring single casks later built an ardent following for its expansive from unnamed distilleries, the whiskies only whisky selection. !e bar closed last year, identi#ed through curious riddle descriptors but new owner Ryan Miller saved it from on the labels. jackrosediningsaloon.com oblivion and, after refurbishing the interior, is reopening the Dell early this year (COVID LA MAISON DU WHISKY restrictions permitting). “For a long time, the Paris / Singapore Dell was such an iconic place for scotch. We If you’re bold enough to call your shop “the want to double down on that, and focus on house of whisky,” you’d better deliver on the education and engagement,” says Drew Wilson, promise—and this Paris-based retailer does the bar’s co-owner and general manager. “We’re so, in spades. In addition to a robust selection rebuilding the collection, and engaging with a of single malts from across Scotland, the younger crowd. !ere’s so much going on with shop features a number of rare selections and TOMMY KLUS scotch, I really want to share that.” single-cask bottlings, and its Paris whisky bar, SCOTCH LODGE, Golden Promise, features a menu of whisky PORTLAND, OREGON THE FLATIRON ROOM and a selection of more than 1,000 After discovering his love New York City rare bottles. whisky.fr for Scotch whisky while a New York City needs a whisky bar be#tting bartender at Teardop Lounge its status as a global capital, and the Flatiron MULTNOMAH WHISKEY LIBRARY in Portland, Oregon, and then Room #ts the bill. Hundreds of bottles #ll Portland, Oregon as an intern at Bruichladdich the shelves in the soaring space, and whisky In an upstairs space above Portland’s SW and Springbank, Tommy guides help guests navigate the selection. Alder Street, Multnomah Whiskey Library Klus went on to help launch Feel like matriculating in whisky? !en gives malt whisky the classic (and classy) influential whisky bar the check out the private classes hosted in the treatment it deserves. A single-malt selection Multnomah Whiskey Library, upstairs tasting room to discover your own several hundred deep (including bottlings before opening his own preferred path through the whisky landscape. from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, only scotch-oriented bar, Scotch the"atironroom.com available to society members) occupies the Lodge, in 2019. menu and the high backbar in the club-like “Scotch whisky is really HIGHLANDER INN space. Sip a malt in a Glencairn glass, or if exciting right now. We went Craigellachie the cocktail mood prevails, aim for a Smoke from an industrial era of Does Scotch whisky taste di"erent when & , with Ardbeg, , Chartreuse, whisky production, and we’re mwlpdx.com sipped close to its source? One way to #nd and peach . now in this more craft-driven out is to check into this small Speyside market, connecting the SEVEN GRAND hotel, which stocks more than 300 whiskies spirits to the source. It’s less Los Angeles spanning great age and diversity. To try about the brand name, and something you won’t #nd back home, ask Cedd Moses helped turn downtown Los more about the people and about the hotel’s range of exclusive single- Angeles into a drinking destination via a range the process that leads to it. cask bottlings from nearby distilleries, such of cocktail bars and comfortable dives. Seven We’re seeing smaller-scale as Benrinnes, Longmorn, and Glenfarclas. Grand, his dedicated whiskey bar, has since distilleries and startups— whiskyinn.com spawned o"shoots in Austin, San Diego, and with places like Kilchoman Denver, and the original LA location continues growing their own barley JACK ROSE DINING SALOON to hold Scotch whisky close to its heart. and doing floor malting—and Washington, D.C. Check out the expansive selection of Islay and more exploration in cask Highland island malts, along with a robust Housed in a vast space that formerly held management, so it’s not just Campbeltown lineup and a blended cache a boxing gym, Jack Rose became one of the 12 to 18 years in a cask then perfect for highballs. sevengrandbars.com world’s great whisky bars, built on a colossal going on a shelf. Distillers and blenders are having more 2009 2009 fun, creating new products, and breaking outside whisky’s The Scotch Whisky The Scotch Whisky old stereotypes. It’s wild to Association announces Regulations 2009 further explore, because you don’t an environmental codify whisky laws and strategy (the first of its give legal geographical know what’s going to happen, kind for an industry in indication to the and that’s part of the fun.” Scotland) that sets what five whisky regions; the trade body describes beginning in 2012, no as “challenging” 2020 is targets aiming to reduce allowed to leave Scotland emissions, water use, Arran Distillery’s water unless it's in a bottle packaging, and waste. labeled for sale. source, Loch na Davie.

march/april 2021 ~ imbibemagazine.com 53 From left: Matty Newton, ©istockphoto.com/barmalini, John Valls; time line images from left: Peter Dibdin, courtesy of Dewar's, courtesy Wolfcraig Distillery Distillery Wolfcraig courtesy Dewar's, of courtesy Dibdin, Peter left: from images line time Valls; John ©istockphoto.com/barmalini, Newton, Matty left: From

DECLARATIONS JOHN GLASER COMPASS BOX, OF INDEPENDENCE While working in the whisky Brands like Glen#ddich and Macallan may goes into blends, so there are casks being industry in the 1990s, be familiar even to non-scotch drinkers, but bought, sold, and traded all the time,” American-born John Glaser names like Signatory, Cadenhead, Duncan she says. Distilleries wish to protect their saw an unrealized potential for Taylor, and Gordon & MacPhail may be names, she says, so there are two things they a creative approach to Scotch mysteries to all but the most dedicated can do. “!ey can have you sign an NDA whisky. In 2000, he founded Scotch whisky fans. [nondisclosure agreement], so you won’t Compass Box, which embraced Independent bottlers are exactly that— disclose the name; or they’ll ‘teaspoon’ the and experimentation companies that purchase new-make spirits casks before they leave the distillery,” putting in its approach to maturing, or whisky, with the option to age, barrel a trace amount of whisky from another blending, and bottling whisky, #nish, and bottle it as they like. !ere’s a lot distillery into the cask so it’s no longer legally evident in current and of beauty to be found in these whiskies, but considered a single malt from that distillery. past expressions including it pays to look closely before buying a bottle. !ere are other clues to seek out. “Age, Hedonism, Tree, Rogues’ “It’s important to look beyond the name, and proof, and #nish are the big things,” Huston Banquet, and This is Not a even the vintage,” says Monique Huston, vice says, noting that since bottlers buy entire Luxury Whisky, and its newest president of wholesale spirits at Winebow casks, they can age the whisky longer, cask release, Magic Cask. in Chicago. Huston says that at a time when #nish it di"erently, or bottle it at a higher “I moved to the U.K. in 1998 many new independent bottlers are popping proof than the distillery might do with its as part of the Johnnie Walker up, some with untested reputations, legacy standard brands. !is, for consumers, is marketing team, and at brands such as these are trustworthy places where the excitement can be found. “For the time, whisky was in the to start, but it’s important to see what else people who really like a particular distillery, doldrums. Before I started can be gleaned from reading the label. if they want something special, it’s kind of Compass Box, I’d hear within !e mention of which distillery made fun to #nd something from an independent the industry, ‘We do it this way the whisky can be insightful, as a simple age bottler that’s single cask and higher proof,” because this is the way we’ve statement says nothing about the whisky’s she says. “You know you’ll like the heart always done it.’ But traditions character. “It could be a gentle Lowland and soul of it, but maybe it has more need to evolve in order to stay whisky or a big, rugged ,” Huston oomph, or it’s been #nished in a sherry relevant. The industry was says. !ough, in some cases, the bottler or rum or Sauternes cask. You can taste sitting on its laurels in the ’70s may be prevented from using the distillery’s something you love, but with dimensions and ’80s, and they were afraid name. “Ninety percent of single malt volume you haven’t had before.” to alienate their core base of consumers, who were getting older, so they weren’t keeping 2016 2020 the tradition of Scotch whisky relevant. But we’ve come a SWA reports that The first half of the the industry met 3,900-bottle whisky long way. I think historically their 2009 goals of collection (dubbed "The the industry has been mostly sourcing 20 percent Perfect Collection") afraid to do the kinds of things of primary energy amassed by late Pepsi that we’ve been doing—but it’s use from non-fossil Bottling Co. owner Richard fuels by 2020 four Gooding is auctioned for a changing, and that’s a good years early; the record £3.2 million ($4.3 thing.” goal was extended million); one bottle of rare to an 80 percent Macallan sells for £825,000 mark by 2050. (more than $1 million).

54 imbibemagazine.com ~ march/april 2021 CAMERON'S KICK

Scotch whisky can sometimes prove challenging in a cocktail context, but one trick bartenders have discovered is to match Scotch’s character with that of another spirit, giving it a good dancing partner in the glass. This classic cocktail from a 1920s London bar guide pairs whiskies from Scotland and , while almond-rich orgeat and lemon brighten the mix.

1 oz. blended Scotch whisky 1 oz. ½ oz. fresh lemon juice ½ oz. orgeat

Tools: shaker, strainer Glass: cocktail Garnish: lemon twist

Shake all of the ingredients with ice to chill, strain into a chilled glass, then garnish.

Adapted from “Harry” of Ciro’s ABC of Mixing Cocktails, 1920s

2020 2020 2021

Dewar's Following the In the spring, construction releases the Christmas Eve is expected to begin at the first Scotch announcement of £15 million ($19 million) whisky to be a Brexit trade deal Wolfcraig Distillery, which finished in a between the U.K. and has a team featuring mezcal cask. the EU, Scotch whisky master blender Richard producers express Paterson, Alan Rutherford, relief about continued Iain Lochhead, and Ian access to their largest Macmillan. regional market.

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