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South Divide That Leads Many People in the Dispropor Post-industrial JILL TATE WOJTEK GURAK THE TOFFEE FACTORY (2012) THE SAGE (2004) Architect: xsite architecture Address: Lower Steenbergs Yard, Quayside, Architect: Foster + Partners 12 Ouseburn, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE1 2DF 1 Address: St Mary’s Square, Gateshead Quays, PASMORE APOLLO PAVILION sentiments in Newcastle Gateshead, NE8 2JR (1969 / 2010) CHRIS GASCOIGNE 7 Architect: original designer Victor Pasmore with refurbishment by Burns Architects THE LIFESTYLE ACADEMY (2007) Address: Oakerside, Peterlee Architect: RMJM 18 Address: Newcastle College, Rye Hill Campus, Scotswood Road, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE4 7SA Like other European countries, England is divided. It suffers from a north- SEVEN STORIES (2005) Architect: GWK architects south divide that leads many people in the disproportionately affluent south 13 Address: 30 Lime Street, Ouseburn Valley, to believe that the former industrial cities of the north, such as Newcastle Newcastle upon Tyne, NE1 2PQ GATESHEAD MILLENNIUM BRIDGE ANDREW HEPTINSTALL (2001) upon Tyne, have nothing to offer. Consequently, the North East of England KNOP LAW PRIMARY SCHOOL Architect: Wilkinson Eyre 2 (2010) Address: Quayside, Gateshead, NE8 1AE is a place where many have never been, or thought to go. Architect: ADP Architecture COLIN DAVISON 19 Address: Hill Head Parkway, Chapel House, NEWCASTLE (UK) — TEXT: ISABELLE PRIEST, ILLUSTRATION: HARMEN VAN DER HORST Newcastle upon Tyne, NE5 1DS THE PLACE (2008) Architect: Sadler Brown Architects he media allows this attitude to spread, even to Gateshead are astonishing. Travelling by train across Like Birmingham, Leeds, Manchester and Liverpool, 8 Address: Athenaem Street, Sunniside, seeping across national borders. The North East King Edward Bridge into Newcastle Central Station Newcastle – and its satellite cities, Middlesborough, Sunderland, SR1 1QV is represented by high unemployment, depriva- (1850), there is the most impressive vista of high-rise Stockton and Sunderland – has recently endured consid- NORTHERN STAGE (2006) T Architect: RHWL tion, industrial wastelands, call centres, public sector bridges to rival any great city. The seven existing bridges erable post-industrial decline. The coal mines and ship- 14 Address: Barras Bridge, Newcastle upon administration departments, cold weather and working- connecting either side of the gorge cause one to genuinely yards had all closed by 1990 and its hustle and bustle has Tyne, NE1 7RH class camaraderie. marvel at what it means to be human. For that rare and quietened to a comparative silence. Swathes of the city Whilst it is not clear how, when and why these founded bracing experience alone, the city is a must-see. have been left seemingly deserted. Although it has a strong a negative mindset, or whether it has always existed in And this is just the quayside. university, arguably this decline has wiped Newcastle off various guises, the attitude is today untrue and outdated. Newcastle’s extensive neo-classical centre is equally the map and now it is renowned only for its nightlife and The North East is a complicated, but beautiful (even pleasing. Planned and built between 1824 – 1841 on 36 hardy Geordie people. awe-inspiring) region, and has stacks of history and hectares, Grainger Town is a late Georgian masterpiece What is of greater interest to this tour guide, however, triumph that, despite courageous efforts from within, is to rival Bath and Edinburgh New Town in soft-coloured is how the region has attempted to rebuild itself after such being forgotten. yellow stone. The quarter is characterized by four-storey, dramatic economic shift. Over the last twenty years, the MEMPHIS BUILDING (2009) Formerly famous for its coal mines and shipyards, the terraced buildings with vertical dormers, domes, turrets North East has become a story of an evolving experiment Architect:3FOLD with SP&A Architects engineering feats achieved since 1775 on the mile-long and spikes. At its heart is Grey Street, described by in regeneration based on trial and error. With successes 3 Address: Lingfield Point, Darlington, DL1 1RW stretch of river joining the region’s capital, Newcastle, Nikolaus Pevsner as one of the finest in England. and failures, the region has made extraordinary efforts to redefine itself and survive – reminding us that places are not a premeditated collection of good and bad architecture, but an incredible montage of peoples’ efforts and risks. WOODHORN COLLIERY LULU QUINN Seeing no future for large-scale industry, the initial HASLAMANDY MUSEUM (2006) approach was to develop the region’s cultural side to THRESHOLD SOUND SCULPTURE THE GREAT NORTH MUSEUM: 20 Architect: RMJM attract tourists. Public artworks, sculpture parks, concert (2003) HANCOCK (2009) Address: Queen Elizabeth II Country Park, Ashington, Northumberland, NE63 9YF halls, museums and galleries were commissioned and 9 Artist: Lulu Quinn 15 Architect: Terry Farrell and Partners Address: High Street, Gateshead, NE9 7JR Address: Barras Bridge, Newcastle upon hotels established for the expected tourist trade. Big Tyne, NE2 4PT names were flown in to design spaceship-like buildings such as The Sage by Fosters + Partners (1) and Gates- INFINITY BRIDGE (2009) head Millennium Bridge by Wilkinson Eyre (2). Architect: Expedition Engineering As the 2000s progressed, and UK-wide recession 4 Address: River Tees, Stockton approached, flashy commissions increasingly gave way to smaller, local, but still ambitious designs. Now the cul- tural centres are in place, there has been a transition from a situation where the city is dependent on external influ- ences to one where the citizens are developing their own SALLY ANN NORMAN SALLY identity and purpose again at a grassroots level. The focus CROCKER TOM TYNESIDE CINEMA (2005) NEWCASTLE CITY LIBRARY has, more sensitively, returned to their needs and desires (2009) – a criticism, perhaps, of the explosion of traditional mid- Architect: Fletcher Priest Architects MIDDLESBROUGH INSTITUTE 10 Address: 10 Pilgrim Street, Newcastle 16 Architect: Ryder Architecture dle-class cultural centres (concert halls, for instance) in OF MODERN ART (MIMA) (2007) upon Tyne, NE1 6QG Address: 33 New Bridge Street West, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE1 8AX the region. This has seen a shift from cultural buildings to 5 Architect: Erick van Egeraat Associated Architects MIKE SMITH Address: Centre Square, Middlesbrough, TS1 2AZ expanding offices, schools and libraries by architects that DEWAR’S LANE GRANARY (2011) infrequently venture beyond the borders of the region. Architect: Bain Swan Architects Most lately, the region is aiming to have grander and 21 Address: Dewar’s Lane, Berwick-upon- Tweed, TD15 1HJ ‘green’ economic intentions, to once again literally become a powerhouse with, for example, Heatherwick Studio’s design for a power station in Teesside (not yet built). Bio- mass-fuelled, this is a visionary statement in demonstrat- ing the region’s commitment to a long-term, successful and sustainable future. What’s more, Heatherwick’s design CHRIS GASCOIGNE transforms the power plant site from a highly protected THE PERFORMANCE ACADEMY JILL TATE KEITH HUNTER area to a landscape where people might walk, sunbathe, (2004) BOHO ONE (2010) BALTIC CENTRE FOR BERWICK WORKSPACE (2008) have picnics or go tobogganing, and makes the building Architect: RMJM CONTEMPORARY ART (2002) 17 itself a public venue and resource. Meanwhile Newcastle Architect: xsite architecture Address: Newcastle College, Rye Hill Architect: Malcolm Fraser Architects 6 Address: Bridge Street West, The Boho Zone, 11 Architect: Ellis Williams Architects Campus, Scotswood Road, Newcastle 22 Address: Boarding School Yard, 90 is planning an extensive programme of cycle routes. Middlesbrough, TS2 1AE Address: Baltic Quays, Gateshead, NE8 3BA upon Tyne, NE4 7SA Marygate, Berwick-upon-Tweed TD15 2BN 58 A10 # 49 Tour Guide Tour Guide A10 # 49 59 CHARLES BARCLAY OBSERVATORY (2008) KEITH PAISLEY Architect: Charles Barclay Architects 23 Address: Kielder Water & Forest Park BELVEDERE (1999) Architect: Softroom Architects 25 Address: Kielder Water & Forest Park PETER SHARPE SPECERE (2009) KRISTEN MCCLUSKIE KRISTEN Architect: Adjaye Associates Address: Kielder Water & Forest Park JANUS CHAIRS (2009) 27 ROBIN’S HUT (2009) Architect: Ryder Architecture FREYA’S CABIN (2009) Address: Kielder Water & Forest Park Architect: Studio Weave 24 Architect: Studio Weave Address: Kielder Water & Forest Park 26 Address: Kielder Water & Forest Park 28 (Post-industrial sentiments in Newcastle) by Burns Architects in 2010 (7). This is a rare example of a designed by former practice GWK, since absorbed by ADP. large-scale experiment in the synthesis of art and architecture Its witty front elevation and entrance abstracts its form from This guide begins in the cities of the North East and finishes in the UK. A pedestrian link between the halves of Sunny Blunts the pages and spine of a book, although the interior is slightly in the wilderness of the North West – a popular destination for Estate, it comprises large, geometric planes of reinforced in situ disappointing. Spend the evening at a show in the transformed its natural beauty and wordsmiths. These regions are linked as concrete that capture light in magical ways. Afterwards, con- and enlarged Northern Stage (14) by RHWL. Above the main a mutually inclusive pair of opposites. Their lasting signifi- tinue to Sunderland to enjoy tea at The Place (8) whilst admir- brick facade, which although modern in style, discretely merg- cances were forged
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