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Lion and Dragon in Northern China

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Lion and Dragon in Northern China CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY THE CHARLES WILLIAM WASON COLLECTION ON CHINA AND THE CHINESE Cornell University Library DS 796.W41J73 Lion and dragon In northern China / 3 1924 023 495 140 The original of tliis book is in tlie Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924023495140 LION AND DRAGON IN NORTHERN CHINA LION AND DRAGON IN NORTHERN CHINA BY R. F. JOHNSTON, M.A. (Oxon.), F.R.G.S. DISTRICT OFFICER AND MAGISTRATE, WEIHAIWEI FORMERLY PRIVATE SECRETARY TO THE GOVERNOR OF HONGKONG, ETC. AUTHOR OF " FROM PEKING TO MANDALAY " WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS NEW YORK E. P. DUTTON AND COMPANY 1910 PRINTED BT HAZELL, WATSOM A»D VINEY, LD., LONDON AND AYLESBURY, ENGLAND, TO Sir JAMES HALDANE STEWART LOCKHART K.C.M.G., COHHISSIONER OF WEIHAIWEI IN MEMORY OF TWO MOONLIT NIGHTS AT LUTAO-K'OU FIVE FROSTY MORNINGS AT PEI-K'OU TEMPLE AND A HUNDRED BREEZY GALLOPS OVER THE HILLS AND SANDS OF WEIHAIWEI PREFACE The meeting-place of the British Lion and the Chinese Dragon in northern China consists of the port and Territory of Weihaiwei. It is therefore with this district, and the history, folk-lore, religious practices and social customs of its people, that the following pages are largely occupied. But Weihaiwei is iti many respects a true miniature of China, and a careful study of native life and character, as they are ex- hibited in this small district, may perhaps give us a clearer and truer insight into the life and character of the Chinese race than we should gain from any superficial survey of China as a whole. Its present status under the British Crown supplies European observers with a unique opportunity for the close study of sociological and other conditions in rural China. If several chapters of this book seem to be but slightly concerned with the special subject of Weihaiwei, it is because the chief interest of the place to the student lies in the fact that it is an epitomised China, and because if we wish fully to understand even this small fragment of the Empire we must make many long excursions through the wider fields viii PREFACE of Chinese history, sociology and religion. The photographs (with certain exceptions noted in each case) have been taken by the author during his residence at Weihaiwei. From Sir James H. Stewart Lockhart, K.C.M.G., Commissioner of Weihaiwei, he has received much kind encouragement which he is glad to take this opportunity of acknowledging; and he is indebted to Captain A. Hilton-Johnson for certain information regarding the personnel of the late Chinese Regiment. His thanks are more especially due to his old friend Mr. D. P. Heatley, Lecturer in History at the University of Edinburgh, for his generous assistance in superintending the publication of the book. R. F. Johnston. WfiN-CH'iJAN-T'ANG, Wbihaiwei, May I, 1910. CONTENTS CHAP. PAGE I. INTRODUCTION I- II. WEIHAIWEI AND THE SHANTUNG PROMONTORY 12 III. HISTORY AND LEGEND 34 IV. CHINESE CHRONICLES AND LOCAL CELEBRITIES 57 V. BRITISH RULE 77 VI. LITIGATION I02 VII. VILLAGE LIFE AND LAND TENURE . I27 VIII. VILLAGE CUSTOMS, FESTIVALS AND FOLK-LORE I5S IX. THE WOMEN OF WEIHAIWEI . .195 X. WIDOWS AND CHILDREN 217 XI. FAMILY GRAVEYARDS 254 XII. DEAD MEN AND GHOST-LORE .... 276 ix X CONTENTS CHAP. PAGE XIII. CONFUCIANISM— I • 300 XIV. CONFUCIANISM— II 328 XV. TAOISM, LOCAL DEITIES, TREE-WORSHIP. 351 XVI. THE DRAGON, MOUNTAIN-WORSHIP, BUDDHISM 385 XVII. RELIGION AND SUPERSTITION IN EAST AND WEST 408 XVIII. THE FUTURE 426 INDEX 451 8 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS VIEW FROM THE HUAN-TS'UI-LOU ON THE CITY WALL OF WEIHAIWEI Frontispiece FACING PAGE THE MANG-TAO TREE 1 A HALT IN YU-CHIA-K'UANG DEFILE 1 THE TEMPLE AT THE SHANTUNG PROMONTORY ... 22 WEIHAIWEI HARBOUR, LIUKUNGTAO AND CHU-TAO LIGHT- HOUSE 26 IMAGES OF "MR. AND MRS. LIU" 28 A VIEW FROM THE WALL OF WEIHAIWEI CITY ... 30 PART OF WEIHAIWEI CITY WALL 46 THE AUTHOR AND TOMMIE ON THE QUORK'S PEAK . 46 THE HARBOUR WITH BRITISH WARSHIPS, FROM LIUKUNGTAO 80 DISTRICT OFFICER'S QUARTERS lOO THE COURT-HOUSE, WEN-CH'uAN-t'aNG lOO xi xii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGE "we are three" . 128 VILLAGE OF t'ANG HO-HSI '^8 30 A TYPICAL THEATRICAL STAGE BELONGING TO A TEMPLE . 1 VILLAGE THEATRICALS '3° 58 A DISTRICT HEADMAN AND HIS COMPLIMENTARY TABLET . 1 THREE VILLAGE HEADMEN 15^ PROTECTIVE CHARMS USED IN WEIHAIWEI . .174 FIRST-FULL-MOON STILT-WALKERS 1 82 "walking boats" AT THE FIRST- FULL-MOON FESTIVAL . 182 MASQUERADERS AT FESTIVAL OF FIRST FULL MOON . 184 GROUP OF VILLAGERS WATCHING FIRST-FULL-MOON MAS- QUERADERS 184 THREE WOMEN AND A HAYRICK 2o6 THREE GENERATIONS—AT THE VILLAGE GRINDSTONE . 2o5 VILLAGE OF KU-SHAN-HOU, SHOWING HONORARY POLES IN FRONT OF THE ANCESTRAL TEMPLE 224 MONUMENT TO FAITHFUL WIDOW, KU-SHAN-HOU . .224 AN AFTERNOON SIESTA 252 WASHING CLOTHES 252 THE ANCESTRAL GRAVEYARD OF THE CHOU FAMILY . 256 A PEDIGREE-SCROLL (CHIA P'U) 264 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xiii FACING PAGE SPIRIT-TABLETS 278 A PEDIGREK SCROLL (CHIA p'u) 280 A WRECKED JUNK 288 A JUNK ASHORE 288 WEIHAIWEI VILLAGERS 314 SHEN-TZU (mule-litter) FORDING A STREAM. 314 HILLS NEAR AI-SHAN 33O piLL, WOOD AND STREAM 330 IMAGE OF KUAN TI, WEIHAIWEI 362 THE BUDDHA OF KU SHAN TEMPLE 368 THE CITY-GOD OF WEIHAIWEI 368 SHRINE TO THE GOD OF LITERATURE 372 A T'U TI SHRINE 372 YUAN DYNASTY GRAVES 376 A T'U TI SHRINE, SHOWING RAG-POLES AND TREE . 376 THE HAUNTED TREE OF LIN-CHIA-YUAN 380 A VILLAGE 382 AT CHANG-CHIA-SHAN 382 AI-SHAN PASS AND TEMPLE 386 xiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGE SHRINES TO THE MOUNTAIN-SPIRIT AND LUNG WANG . • 39^ WORSHIP AT THE ANCESTRAL TOMBS 39^ AT THE VILLAGE OF YU-CHIA-K'UANG 398 A MOUNTAIN STREAM AND HAMLET 398 WfiN-CH'WAN-T'ANG 40O SHRINE ON SUMMIT OF KU SHAN 4I4 VILLAGERS AT A TEMPLE DOORWAY 414 TWO BRITISH RULERS ON THE MARCH, WITH MULE-LITTER AND HORSE 434 A ROADSIDE SCENE 434 THE COMMISSIONER OF WEIHAIWEI (SIR J. H. STEWART LOCKHART, K.C.M.G.), WITH PRIEST AND ATTENDANTS AT THE TEMPLE OF CH'ENG SHAN 440 MAP WEIHAIWEI at the end LION AND DRAGON IN NORTHERN CHINA CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION Less than a dozen years have passed since the guns of British warships first saluted the flag of their country at the Chinese port of Weihaiwei, yet it is nearly a century since the white ensign was seen there for the first time. In the summer of 1816 His Britannic Majesty's frigate Alceste, accompanied by the sloop Lyra, bound for the still mysterious and unsurveyed coasts of Korea and the Luchu Islands, sailed eastwards from the mouth of the Pei-ho along the northern coast of the province of Shantung, and on the 27th August of that year cast anchor in the harbour of " Oie-hai-oie." Had the gallant officers of the Alceste and Lyra been inspired with knowledge of future political developments, they would doubtless have handed down to us an interesting account of the place and its inhabitants. All we learn from Captain Basil Hall's delightful chronicle of the voyage of the two ships consists of a few details—in the truest sense ephemeral—as to wind and weather, and a statement that the rocks of the mainland consist of "yellowish felspar, white quartz, and black mica." The rest is silence. From that time until the outbreak of the Sino- 2 INTRODUCTION Japanese War in 1894 the British public heard little or nothing of Weihaiwei. After the fall of Port Arthur, during that war, it was China's only remaining naval base. The struggle that ensued in January 1895, when, with vastly superior force, the Japanese attacked it by land and sea, forms one of the few episodes of that war upon which the Chinese can look back without overwhelming shame. Victory, how- ever, went to those who had the strongest battalions and the stoutest hearts. The three-weeks siege ended in the suicide of the brave Chinese Commander-in- Chief, Admiral Ting^, and in the loss to China of her last coast-fortress and the whole of her fleet. Finally, as a result of the seizure of Port Arthur by Russia and a subsequent three-cornered agreement between Japan, China and England, Weihaiwei was leased to Great Britain under the terms of a Conven- tion signed at Peking in July 1898. The British robe of empire is a very splendid and Wonderfully variegated garment. It bears the gor- geous scarlets and purples of the Indies, it shimmers with the diamonds of Africa, it is lustrous with the whiteness of our Lady of Snows, it is scented with the spices of Ceylon, it is decked with the pearls and soft fleeces of Australia. But there is also—pinned to the edge of this magnificent robe—a little drab- coloured ribbon that is in constant danger of being dragged in the mud or trodden underfoot, and is frequently the object of disrespectful gibes. This is Weihaiwei. Whether the imperial robe would not look more imposing without this nondescript appendage is a question which may be left to the student of poHtical fashion-plates : it will concern us hardly at all in the pages of this book. An English newspaper published in China has dubbed Weihaiwei the Cinderella of the British Empire, and speculates vaguely as to where her Fairy Prince is to come from.
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