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Australia AUD11.95 (incl. GST) • Singapore SGD10 (incl. GST) • Malaysia RM29 • Indonesia RP99, 000 • Thailand THB240 ADEX 2018 POST-REPORT + BLUEGREEN360 AWARDS 2018 AWARDS + BLUEGREEN360 2018 POST-REPORT ADEX MARINE SANCTUARIES AROUNDTHEWORLD “ systems here are some of the most pristine have seen anywhere in my dive around the globe, and Wakatobi and are second to none. The diversity of species here is brilliant if you love photography.” ~ Simon Bowen An experience without equal

At Wakatobi Dive Resort, you don’t compromise on comfort to get away from it all. Our private air charter brings you directly to this luxuriously remote island, where all the indulgences of five-star resort and luxury liveaboard await. Our dive team and private guides ensure your in-water experiences are perfectly matched to your abilities and interests. Your underwater encounters will create lasting memories that will remain vivid and rewarding long after the visit to Wakatobi is concluded. While at the resort, or on board the dive yacht Pelagian, you need only ask and will gladly provide any service or facility within our power. This unmatched combination of world-renowned reefs and first-class luxuries put Wakatobi in a category all its own.

www.wakatobi.com

4/18/18 12:23 PM www.facebook.com/ScubaDiverAAOP 181,438 Likes and counting! CHAIRMAN Lim Geok Khoon mpas

MEDIA PUBLISHERS ASSOCIATION OF SINGAPORE AWARDS PUBLISHER/EDITORIAL DIRECTOR ASIAN PUBLISHING AWARDS John THET [email protected] BEST Multimedia Integration Special Interest Media of the year 2015 (merit) to Engage Audiences 2012 Publisher of the year 2014, 2015 EDITORIAL John THET ASSOCIATE EDITORS Editorial Brand Projection 2014 (Excellence Award) Editor of the year 2015 Janeen LOH [email protected] Alice GRAINGER Ian BONGSO-SELDRUP [email protected] Designer of the year 2015 EDITORIAL INTERN Zoey LIM Jun Xi LIM [email protected]

DESIGN Free Digital Copies With Your Print Subscription GRAPHIC DESIGNER Tinhtwe JUSTIN [email protected] Get Scuba Diver AUSTRALASIA + OCEAN PLANET delivered to your tablet or mobile when you WEB/IT subscribe to the print magazine Dutch CATALON [email protected] ADVERTISING & MARKETING ACCOUNT MANAGER (REGIONAL) Anne LOW [email protected] Desmond HO [email protected]

SENIOR EXECUTIVE Karter LEE [email protected]

Media partners EVENTS & MARKETING EXECUTIVE Spencer NAH [email protected]

CIRCULATION & PRODUCTION TRAFFIC/PRODUCTION/CIRCULATION SENIOR MANAGER Victor OW [email protected] Official publication of Supporting organisations

10 CONTRIBUTORS Imran AHMAD, Lia BARRETT, Roni BEN-AHARON, Scott BENNETT, Antonio BUSIELLO, Kathryn CURZON, Shreya DASGUPTA, Jürgen FREUND, Tobias FRIEDRICH, Robyn HUGHES, Wade HUGHES, Mike KOCHALSKI, Brandi MUELLER, Gerald NOWAK, Barbara PÖLZER, is available in the following lounges and libraries Wolfgang PÖLZER, Jonathan TERNOY, Joseph TEPPER, Christian VIZL, Claudia WEBER-GEBERT, Sarah WORMALD, Glenn YONG

MEDIA CORRESPONDENTS [email protected] North America, Matt WEISS Member of In associ Germany, Dietmar FUCHS Hong Kong, Taiwan, China Connie CHAN , Keiichi ARANTANI Malaysia, Regent Media Sdn Bhd uw360.asia Thailand, Radius Official Media partner

COPYRIGHT © 2018 Asian Geographic Magazines Pte Ltd. No material may reproduced without written permission. This publication is purchased with the understanding that information is presented from many sources for which there can be no warranty or responsibility by the publisher as to accuracy, originality or completeness. It is sold with the understanding that the publisher is not engaged in rendering product endorsements or providing instruction as a substitute for NEWSSTAND DISTRIBUTION appropriate training by qualified sources. All content provided is accurate at the Australia – Gordon & Gotch Ltd Tel: +(61 2) 9789 6444, Hong Kong – Times Publishing (HK) Ltd time of publishing. Tel: +(852) 2334 2421, Indonesia – PT Javabooks Indonesia Tel: +(62 21) 4682 1088, Malaysia – Pansing Distribution (M) Sdn Bhd Tel: +(60 3) 5638 2208, Singapore – SMPH Distributors (S) Pte Ltd Tel: +(65) 6453 8200, Thailand – Asia Books Co., Ltd. Tel: +(66 2) 715 9000

is published three times a year by Asian Geographic Magazines Pte Ltd Printed in Singapore by KHL Printing Co Pte Ltd. MCI (P) 144/11/2017, PPS 1473/11/2012(022874); ISSN 0729-5529

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Canon’s Latest Game Changer By: Jonathan Lin

As a user of the Canon EOS 5D Mark III impressed me. The greatly improved transfer and review files seamlessly. over the past few years, I have captured LCD resolution, from 1.04M to 1.62M It is also nice to have the option of a variety of challenging subjects in the dots, as well as Dual Pixel CMOS AF checking the GPS location if I need most difficult underwater conditions. providing very accurate continuous help recalling where shots were taken. The arrival of the 5D Mark IV has autofocus in Live View mode (another The 5D Mark IV’s performance and brought exciting advancements under first for a Canon DLSR), make an features make this a game-changing the hood but only minor external already excellent screen even better. DLSR. I would recommend any serious changes, and underwater housings The new Wi-Fi and NFC features are photographer consider it for their like mine are still compatible with the another great touch, as I can now next upgrade. new model. So when I recently had the opportunity to try out the 5D Mark IV, I jumped at the chance. My first stop was Lembeh, Indonesia’s macro mecca. I immediately To find out more visit: noticed the 5D Mark IV’s amazing autofocus speed. The increase in sensor resolution from 22.3 to 30.4 megapixels was also hugely significant, as it gave me even greater latitude to crop images but maintain enough pixels for large https://goo.gl/7yPqUj prints. Moreover, shooting with the 5D Mark IV’s new Dual Pixel Raw feature, which allows you to shift focus very slightly after taking a picture, I was able to perfect my shots of the • 30.4-megapixel full-frame CMOS sensor • ISO range 100-32,000 expandable up to tiniest critters. 50-102,400 Moving on to Manado, I was invited • 4K movie shooting (25/30p) with 4K frame grab to photograph some freedivers, which • Dual Pixel CMOS AF meant using strobes was not an option. • 61 AF points I found the increase in dynamic range of • 150,000-pixel RGB+IR metering sensor the new full-frame sensor brought out details in the images that would have been impossible without the use of strobes. Despite the big jump in sensor resolution, continuous shooting speed has been increased up to an incredible 7fps, making it even easier to keep up with the action. The Mark IV takes video to a new level with 4K capture at up to 30p, a first for a Canon DSLR. Underwater videographers will also appreciate the camera’s ability to shoot in Full HD at 60p, giving the option of creating smooth slow-motion video in post-production. The new model also boasts a number of smaller refinements that Image of a coconut taken with the Canon EOS 5D Mark IV, f/3.2, 1/200s, ISO100

https://snapshot.canon-asia.com/en

https://asia.canon MARINE SANCTUARIES AROUND THE WORLD

64 96 Gerald Nowak Jürgen Freund CONTENTS

FEATURES

APO ISLAND: CREATING A 16 60 MARINE PROTECTED AREA Briefing By Roni Ben-Aharon 26 ADEX Post-Report 104 MARINE SANCTUARIES Buyer’s Guide 64 AROUND THE WORLD 120 By various contributors Iconic

THE UPS AND DOWNS OF 96 MARINE PROTECTED AREAS By Shreya Dasgupta, Mongabay

UWPHOTOGRAPHY SEALIFE HIGHLIGHTS 32 ADEX VOICE OF THE 46 THE BLUE DRAGON 56 DIVING IN PARADISE OCEAN 2018

32 56 60 Dave Haas Malaysia Stephanie Quek

4 | SDAA

NO.112 ISSUE 2/2018

ERRATUM In the ADEX Special Edition, Diveaholic, the image of a shrimp larva on the ”‹‰Š–ȋ’ƒ‰‡͘Ȍ™ƒ• incorrectly credited to William Tan. The actual photographer is Steven Ko. We apologise for this error.

ADEX Special Edition

360 Steven Ko CONTENTS

BLUEGREEN360 AWARDS SCUBA 101 RESEARCH, EDUCATION & MEDICINE 48 SUSTAINABILITY 54 DIVING WITH A 106 ALERT DIVER GOES A LONG WAY SORE BACK ›•‹ƒǦƒ ‹Ƥ By Kathryn Curzon

106 FROM THE EDITOR For centuries, our waters have been seen as a limitless bounty of food. Day ƒ†‹‰Š–ǡƤ•Š‡”•‰‘‘—––‘•‡ƒŠ‘’‹‰ˆ‘”ƒ‰‘‘† ƒ– Šǡ„—–ƒ•†‹˜‡”•ǡ™‡ value the ocean as something much more than a means of sustenance: Our sanctuary is often found beneath the surface, where marine life thrives. But ‹–Š‡Žƒ•– ‡–—”›ǡ–Š‡†‡ƒ†ˆ‘”•‡ƒˆ‘‘†Šƒ••›”‘ ‡–‡†ǡƒ†Ƥ•Š‡”• have resorted to unsustainable practices. Today, over 60 percent of the ™‘”Ž†ǯ•Ƥ•Š•–‘ •ƒ”‡ˆ—ŽŽ›Ƥ•Š‡†ǡƒ†͔͘’‡” ‡–‘ˆ”‡ ‘”†‡†ƒ”‹‡ •’‡ ‹‡•Šƒ˜‡†‡ ”‡ƒ•‡†‹–Š‡Žƒ•–͔͘›‡ƒ”•Ǥ

In response, conservationists, scientists, and governments have been in continuous dialogue with local communities to protect the world’s most precious underwater ecosystems. While protected areas have been popping

Stephen Frink up more rapidly in recent years, 90 percent of marine protected areas are •–‹ŽŽ‘’‡–‘Ƥ•Š‹‰ǡƒ†•—ƥ ‹‡–‡ˆ‘” ‡‡–‹••–‹ŽŽŽƒ ‹‰Ǥ

48 This World Oceans Day, let’s rally together to spread the beauty of the blue, for a sanctuary exists only as long as its dwellers do.

On the cover

A school of long-snoutedd spinner dolphins swimminng close to the surface of Dampier Kurabesi Explorer Liveaboard www.uw360.asia/SD Strait Street, Raja Ampatt Image © Tobias Friedrichh

6 | SDAA www.uw360.asia

underwater360 DIVERS’ is the platform that offers everything you want and need to know about DAILY exploring the world of water. It’s the official digital home of the world-leading magazines DIGEST Asian Diver and Scuba Diver AUSTRALASIA + OCEAN PLANET, as well as Asia’s biggest and longest-running dive show, Asia Dive Expo (ADEX)

UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY UW360 TV We feature a collection of photos every week, From awe-inspiring footage of marine life, and choose an “Underwater Photographer of the Month”. to educational videos about the impact of UW360 is an alive and growing platform for photographers climate change on our oceans – experience the from all over the world, and so we are introducing a portfolio underwater world like never before with UW360 TV. of our photographers – coming soon!

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Read our tips, guides Subscribe to our various From the development of Diveaholic is the membership and the latest news on magazines and purchase leading and novel diving for UW360 – get heaps of the underwater world. T-shirts, mugs, bags and more. equipment, to a range of benefts and join a growing We also feature daily articles: There are also exclusive ofers fantastic ofers for dive trips to community on one of the From interviews with and products that you won’t some of the best destinations biggest online dive portals pioneering conservationists, fnd anywhere else, such as all around the world – Trade360 in the world! With both FREE to in-depth pieces on diving signed copies of Silver Seas: is the place where you can and VIP memberships for both history – UW360 is the A Retrospective, which is a keep up-to-date on the latest individuals and dive-related “Divers’ Daily Digest”. compilation of Ernie Brooks’ launches, achievements, and businesses, you are bound incredible images. ofers from companies in the to fnd the perfect package dive industry. for you.

MAGAZINES ADEX

UW360 publishes several UW360 is the home of www.adex.asia dive magazines that provide ADEX – a world-class dive www.adexchina.cn penetrating and unique expo with a strong focus on insights into our blue planet. conservation. Get the latest They also feature visually updates about ADEX, held in stunning photos of marine life, Singapore and China (Hong diving destinations, and much Kong, Beijing and Shenzhen), more! As a platform for the as well as the festivals and work of pioneers and experts in awards that accompany it, such the inaugural the dive industry, you won’t be as the Ocean Festivals, the 360o Awards ADEX able to fnd this stuf on the BlueGreen Awards, and VOICE OF THE Internet – go and visit the ARDS OCEAN UW360 and subscribe today! contest – Voice of the Ocean. NEW

THE Next GENERATION GALILEO SERIES is here. Now available in a choice of wrist-mount or console styles, offering innovative technologies and intuitive Now available in a choice of wrist-mount or console styles, offering innovative technologies and intuitive designs, we created the new G2 dive computers just for you. Fully customizable: pick your colors, dive screens, and tank connections to make the G2 truly your own. Whatever your passion for diving – open water to , to CCR to sidemount – a G2 will take you there. You can even customize your dive profile based on your rate, skin and heart rate. The G2 – it's as unique as you. DEEP DOWN YOU WANT THE BEST UW360 is now at your fngertips. In catering to our readers, we provide easy access to all of our content even when you’re on the go. You can now go online and book your dive trips around the world, or join our special UW360 Expeditions!

VIDEOS UNDERWATER360 Experience the underwater world like IN THE PALM OF never before with UW360 TV. The app YOUR HAND is integrated with our YouTube channel where you can watch amazing underwater videos. Getting your hands on Underwater360, the app that offers everything you want and need SHOP to know, has never been easier. Bringing You can fnd everything from books by entertaining and digestible content loved by renowned divers to UW360’s merchandise our readers, we are aimed at the dive community such as mugs, bags and many more! and its industry. EVENTS Be informed on what’s happening at the biggest dive shows on the planet. Check it out so that you won’t miss a thing! NEWS Read our tips, guides and the latest news on the underwater world. The app DIVERS’ is fully integrated with our articles on DAILY www.uw360.asia. Reading articles has DIGEST never been easier! BOOK A DIVE TRIP Now you can go online and book your dive trips around the world, or join us at our UW360 Expeditions.

ADEX at your fngertips Getting your hands on everything ADEX has never been easier. Catch all the best deals, and the details on your favourite ADEX speakers on-the-go. Don’t lose out on the best that ADEX has to ofer – download the app today!

DEALS/COUPONS Discover all the deals on offer at ADEX. The app will notify you of the best deals around, and will update you on which booths to head to. ACTIVITIES If you are looking for good deals and special Unsure of what’s going on at ADEX? Check out offers in the expo hall, the app will point you our activities page, which gives you a breakdown in the right direction. on what’s available at the show. • POOL SESSIONS • GET THE LATEST DEALS FROM THE • MERMAID SHOWS EXHIBITORS! • TRY DIVES • BLUEGREEN360 AWARD LUCKY DRAW With prizes ranging from dive packages to SPEAKERS/PROGRAMMES gear, the annual ADEX Lucky Draw is always Stay up-to-date with the latest programme a hit. All visitors will get a chance to schedule at ADEX. You can even set reminders participate in our daily ADEX Lucky Draw. through the app, so that you can be sure that you Simply register through the app after won’t miss a thing. purchasing your ticket and keep a lookout for • OPENING CEREMONY your name throughout the day, as winners are • CONSERVATION TALKS announced every two hours. • PHOTO/VIDEO ZONE • TEKDIVE CONFERENCE EXHIBITORS/FLOOR PLAN • FILM FESTIVAL With each successive year, ADEX has hosted • SCUBA360 BUSINESS FORUM an inreasing number of exhibitors. Browse the • BLUEGREEN360 ZONE complete list of ADEX exhibitors to note • MERMAID FESTIVAL down your favourite diving brands and scout out dive destinations. Coupled with OFFICIAL STORE our comprehensive venue guide, you can now Grab a copy of your favourite books by plan your journey through our halls in the renowned underwater photographers and most efficient manner from the screen of professional divers. If you’re looking for a To start enjoying these fantastic benefts, your smartphone. or two, browse through our collection of all you need to do is download the app from the Apple App Store or Google Play TICKETS UW360-branded merchandise such as mugs and and start your multimedia journey. Dive bags, and much more at the ADEX official store. into the ADEX OCEAN FESTIVAL APP to Buy your tickets on the spot with the app. You may self-collect your purchases from our receive useful information and instant No more queueing up and waiting in line. vendors at ADEX on the day itself or have your updates, while keeping an eye out for each Get in fast with the online ticket booking function products delivered to your doorstep. day’s amazing lucky draw prizes. for all three days of ADEX. silver

cinema of dreams

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APRIL 12–14, 2019 SUNTEC SINGAPORE HALL 406

ASIA FOOD & FILM FESTIVAL FILMS • DRINKS • CUISINE &

We encourage vendors to use food and material from fair trade and sustainable sources

Created by Co-organised by

BRIEFING Shutterstock

      ǧ  

An inadvertently-engineered creation discovered “We hoped to determine its structure to aid in by US Department of Energy’s National Renewable protein engineering, but we ended up going a Energy Laboratory (NREL) and the ’s University of step further and accidentally engineered an enzyme ‘”–•‘—–Š ƒ› ‘ơ‡” ƒ ˜‹–ƒŽ •‘Ž—–‹‘ –‘ –Š‡ ’”‘„Ž‡ with improved performance at breaking down of plastic pollution. these plastics,” explained the research team in The PET-digesting enzyme Ideonella sakaiensis, NREL’s statement. ƒŽ•‘ ‘™ ƒ• ƒ•‡ǡ ™ƒ• Ƥ”•– †‹• ‘˜‡”‡† ‹ ͖͔͕͚ As compared to the original enzyme, the by Yoshida et al., who found the bacterium living in mutant’s appetite has dramatically increased the soil at a recycling plant in Japan that was piled and the process of feeding has accelerated. with used bottles. This bacterium was unique as it ‘– ‘Ž› ‹• –Š‹• ‡™ ”‡ƒ–‹‘ ‘”‡ ‡ơ‡ –‹˜‡ –Šƒ could use polyethylene terephthalate (PET) as its ƒ•‡ǡ –Š‡ †‹ơ‡”‡–‹ƒ–‹‰ ˆ‡ƒ–—”‡ Ž‹‡• ‹ ‹–• ƒ„‹Ž‹–› major carbon and energy source. In other words, to consume another type of plastic, polyethylene these bacteria can simply feed on plastic used to furandicarboxylate (PEF). “It is literally drilling make disposable beverage bottles for survival holes through the PEF sample. This shows that and growth. by using PETase, PEF is even more biodegradable With this discovery, NREL and the University than PET,” said NREL’s Gregg Beckham, one ABOVE of Portsmouth dedicated a research team to of the leading researchers. This new creation A mountain of determine the enzyme’s structure. While conducting opens a new door to combating the huge quantities plastic – a sight most of us are far the research, the team inadvertently created a ‘ˆ ’Žƒ•–‹ ™ƒ•–‡ ‡–‡”‹‰ Žƒ†ƤŽŽ• ƒ† ƒ ——Žƒ–‹‰ ‹ removed from mutant PETase. the ocean.

WORDS OF WISDOM

When it comes to our In the maritime world, We can all play a significant part in seas and oceans, the sustainability means that dealing with the plastic problem. challenge is global so the the more you regulate, But the scientific community who ultimately answer must be too the more productive created these “wonder-materials,” must your ocean will be now use all the technology at their disposal MICHAEL GOVE to develop real (UK Environment Secretary) SUSI PUDJIASTUTI (Minister of Fisheries and Marine Affairs JOHN MCGEEHAN for the Republic of Indonesia) (Professor of Structural Biology, University of Portsmouth)

16 | SDAA A GGRESSOR A DVENTURES™

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UK BANS THE SALE OF PLASTIC STRAWS AND COTTON BUDS

The British Government has announced an end to the sale of plastic straws, drink stirrers and plastic-stemmed cotton buds at the start of the Commonwealth Heads of Government Summit. Subject to the consultation, which the Environment Secretary Michael Gove will launch later this year, UK authorities are prepared to ban the sale of these items in Britain under plans to protect their ”‹˜‡”•ƒ†•‡ƒ•ƒ†‡‡––Š‡‹”͖͙‡ƒ”˜‹”‘‡– Plan ambition to eliminate avoidable plastic waste. The announcement comes as the Prime Minister Theresa May urged all Commonwealth countries to sign up to the newly-formed Commonwealth Clean Oceans Alliance and take action, be this through a ban on microbeads, a commitment to cutting down on single-use plastic bags, or other steps to eliminate plastic pollution. Single-use plastic items such as straws, stirrers Shutterstock ƒ† ‘––‘ „—†• Šƒ˜‡ ƒ •‹‰‹Ƥ ƒ– ‹’ƒ – ‘ ‘—” environment, both on land and in our seas and ”‹˜‡”• Ȃ ™‹–Š ƒ ”‡ ‡– •–—†› •Š‘™‹‰ ͜Ǥ͙ „‹ŽŽ‹‘ ’Žƒ•–‹ (US$83.3 million) package of funding to boost ABOVE straws are thrown away each year in the UK alone. global research and help countries across the ͙͔͔‹ŽŽ‹‘ straws are To drive the intiative forward, British Commonwealth stop plastic waste from entering used by ’‘Ž‹ ›Ǧƒ‡”• Šƒ˜‡ ‘‹––‡† ƒ ͇͚͕Ǥ͘ ‹ŽŽ‹‘ –Š‡ ‘ ‡ƒ• ‹ –Š‡ Ƥ”•– ’Žƒ ‡Ǥ Americans daily

    DIVERSITY OF CORAL COULD EXTEND OUR CHANCE TO SAVE    

A study published in PLOS Genetics recently †‹• ‘˜‡”‡† –Šƒ– –Š‡”‡ ƒ› „‡ ƒ ‡š–”ƒ ͙͔ ›‡ƒ”• ˆ‘” us to save the corals of Australia’s . Researchers from the University of Texas at Austin, the University of Melbourne, and the Australian Institute of Marine Science have found that corals in the Great Barrier Reef have enough genetic diversity to survive rising ocean for another century, double the previous estimate. The scientists obtained their results through a mix of genetic sampling and computer simulations, focusing on the staghorn coral Acropora millepora, Shutterstock ƒ •‹‰‹Ƥ ƒ– •’‡ ‹‡• ‹ „—‹Ž†‹‰ –Š‡ ”‡ƒ– ƒ””‹‡” Reef. Corals within this species have been found to be more heat resistant than others. When the coral colonies reproduce, they release millions of This genetic variation is like fuel for natural Žƒ”˜ƒ‡ –Šƒ– ƪ‘ƒ– ‘ ‘ ‡ƒ —””‡–• „‡ˆ‘”‡ •‡––Ž‹‰ selection. If there’s enough variation, evolution can ABOVE in a new location. As waters warm, the more heat- „‡“—‹ ǡƒ•ƒŽŽ‹–‡‡†•‹•–‘”‡•Š—ƫ‡–Š‡‡š‹•–‹‰ Back-to-back resistant larvae survive, improving the resilience of variants between populations. The challenge is when bleaching events Šƒ˜‡ƒơ‡ –‡†–™‘Ǧ the colonies they join. This could be the process that the genetic variation is exhausted, this process would thirds of the Great would buy corals another half century. not be able to take place, leading to an unclear future. Barrier Reef

18 | SDAA

BRIEFING

        Conservation International

 ’”‹Ž ͕͖ǡ ͖͔͕͜ǡ ƒ †‘‡•‹ƒ Ž—š—”› ’”‹˜ƒ–‡ Šƒ”–‡” Š‡–”‹’ƒ†‡• ‹‡–‹Ƥ Š‡ƒ†™ƒ›™‹–Š–Š‡ vessel partnered with Conservation International (CI) discovery of a new cleaning station in ˆ‘” ƒ Š‹‰ŠǦ–‡ Š • ‹‡–‹Ƥ ˜‘›ƒ‰‡ ƒ ”‘•• ƒŒƒ ’ƒ– –‘ ƒ›ƒ‰ƒ† ‘Ƥ”ƒ–‹‘‘ˆƒ‘–Š‡”•—•’‡ –‡† raise awareness for the protection of manta rays. cleaning station in Ayau , identifying Ichthyologist, Dr. Gerry Allen, and Vice President ƒ–Ž‡ƒ•–͖͙‡™ƒ–ƒ‹†‹˜‹†—ƒŽ•ƒ†–™‘•’‡ ‹‡• ‘ˆ  ǯ• •‹ƒ ƒ ‹Ƥ ƒ”‹‡ ”‘‰”ƒ‡ǡ ”Ǥ ƒ” of goby – the Grallenia goby and the Silhouettea Erdmann, were at the helm of the mission, with the goby, the names of which are yet to be decided. aim of conducting research on the manta population “Until recently, we’ used boats to survey for and their migration patterns, while also surveying mantas feeding in new areas, but due to the nature ‘”ƒŽ ”‡‡ˆ Ƥ•Š „‹‘†‹˜‡”•‹–›Ǥ of the species, this approach is frequently challenging and time-consuming,” Dr. Erdmann explained. “As mantas are black on top and white underneath, –Š‡› ƒ„‡“—‹–‡†‹ƥ —Ž––‘•’‘– ”—‹•‹‰„‡‡ƒ–Š the surface, particularly when the sky is overcast. ”‘ƒ˜ƒ–ƒ‰‡’‘‹–͙͔–‘͕͔͔‡–”‡•ƒ„‘˜‡–Š‡ sea surface, a drone can see much further than the human eye and avoids the glare on the sea surface ABOVE we frequently have to deal with when scanning The use of drones from boats.” has allowed for monitoring of Upon detection of the mantas, the team followed manta ray feeding them by speedboat and continued to monitor their and cleaning behaviour movement in real-time via drone. The drones also allowed for monitoring of manta ray feeding and RIGHT A male Grallenia cleaning behaviour in shallow waters. Conservation goby, one International is currently training Indonesian of the two newly- discovered scientists to use this new technique during future species Conservation International manta expeditions.

20 | SDAA

BRIEFING

FOUR NEW MARINE PROTECTED    

Brazil will soon have four vast marine protected areas (MPAs) in the Atlantic Ocean, covering an ƒ”‡ƒ ‘ˆ ‘”‡ –Šƒ ͖͔͝ǡ͔͔͔ •“—ƒ”‡ ‹Ž‘‡–”‡•Ǥ Š‹• will increase the coverage of Brazilian MPAs from ͕Ǥ͙ ’‡” ‡– –‘ ͖͘Ǥ͙ ’‡” ‡– ‘ˆ –Š‡ ‘—–”›ǯ• ™ƒ–‡”•ǡ

‡š ‡‡†‹‰ –Š‡ ‹–‡”ƒ–‹‘ƒŽ –ƒ”‰‡– ‘ˆ ͕͔ ’‡” ‡– Shutterstock „› ͖͔͖͔Ǥ All four MPAs, created hundreds of kilometres from the Brazilian coast, will protect remote sets of islands. Two will cover the archipelago of Trindade, Martin Vaz and Mount Columbia, with ‘‡ ƒŽŽ‘™‹‰ •‘‡ •—•–ƒ‹ƒ„Ž‡ —•‡ ‘ˆ Ƥ•Š‹‰ Protecting the archipelagos will be key to resources and the other prohibiting all human ƒ‹–ƒ‹‹‰ ƒ† ”‡ ‘˜‡”‹‰ Ƥ•Š •–‘ •Ǥ ‘™‡˜‡”ǡ activity. The remaining two will be located around some marine biologists worry that these large, the São Pedro and São Paulo archipelagos, with remote MPAs may do little to safeguard biodiversity. one allowing some human activity and the other “They are placed in the most remote regions of the ”‡ƒ‹‹‰ Ž‘•‡† ‘ơ –‘ Š—ƒ —•‡Ǥ Brazilian EEZ [exclusive economic zone],” said Natalie The remote archipelagos are home to a range Ban, a marine biologist at the University of Victoria, of threatened and endemic species, including Canada. “They cover the most remote seamounts, the critically endangered Atlantic goliath grouper ›‡– Ƥ•Š‹‰ ‹• •–‹ŽŽ ƒŽŽ‘™‡† ‹ –Š‡ ‘•– •‡•‹–‹˜‡ ƒ”‡ƒ• ABOVE Epinephelus itajara) and the endangered scalloped around the islands or rocks.” Fernando ( Noronha Marine hammerhead (Sphyrna lewini). The waters The designation is also unlikely to protect against National Park, an ‘ơ –Š‡ ‹•Žƒ†• ƒŽ•‘ Š‘Ž† ƒ ”‹ Š †‹˜‡”•‹–› ‘ˆ ƒŽ‰ƒ‡ǡ existing MPA deep-sea mining, Ban said. Whether these remote in Brazil ‘”ƒŽ•ǡ Ƥ•Šǡ •Šƒ”•ǡ ”ƒ›•ǡ ‘ –‘’—•‡•ǡ ™ŠƒŽ‡•ǡ †‘Ž’Š‹• MPAs succeed will depend largely on enforcement, and turtles. conservationists say.

           

Indonesia’s Fisheries Minister Susi Pudjiastuti has –‡ƒ‡†—’™‹–Š ‘‘‰Ž‡–‘ ƒ– Š‹ŽŽ‡‰ƒŽƤ•Š‹‰ activity in real time. By using satellites and software capabilities, Google has successfully detected pirate „‘ƒ–•Ž‘ ƒ–‡†Œ—•–‘—–•‹†‡‘ˆ’‡”‹––‡†Ƥ•Š‹‰ƒ”‡ƒ•Ǥ These “global pirates” make use of Indonesian ‘’ƒ‹‡•ǡ™Š‹Ž‡Ƥ•Š‹‰„‡›‘†’‡”‹––‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•ǡ shipping their catch to foreign destinations. ͖͔͕͚ǡ ‘‘‰Ž‡ ‘Ǧˆ‘—†‡† Ž‘„ƒŽ ‹•Š‹‰ƒ– Šǡ an online mapping platform. Indonesia became the pioneer nation to share its Vessel Monitoring System information – government-owned data —•‡†–‘‘‹–‘”ƒ”‹–‹‡–”ƒƥ Ȃ™‹–Š Ž‘„ƒŽ Fishing Watch, and they have since located more than ͙ǡ͔͔͔„‘ƒ–•–Šƒ–™‡”‡’”‡˜‹‘—•Ž›‹˜‹•‹„Ž‡–‘Ž‘ ƒŽ detection systems. Šƒ•–‘–Š‹•’ƒ”–‡”•Š‹’ǡ †‘‡•‹ƒǯ•Ƥ•Š•–‘ • have more than doubled in two years, with foreign Ƥ•Š‹‰‹ †‘‡•‹ƒ†”‘’’‹‰„›‘”‡–Šƒ͔͝ LEFT The yellow area percent. Vessels seized by the Indonesian Navy are represents sunk to prevent further use – ironically, these boats –Š‡ Ƥ•Š‹‰ –Š‡„‡ ‘‡ƒ”–‹Ƥ ‹ƒŽ”‡‡ˆ•–Šƒ–ƒ‹†‹–Š‡‰”‘™–Š‘ˆ vessels found in Global Fishing Watch Indonesia’s waters the local marine species. SDAA

22 | SDAA DEMA SHOW 2018 NOVEMBER 14–17, 2018 | Las Vegas Center | Las Vegas, NV

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ADEX 2018 POST REPORT

ADEX SINGAPORE 2018

Having brought divers together for 24 years, ADEX has become ‘”‡–Šƒƒ†‹˜‡•Š‘™ǡ•’‡ƒ”Š‡ƒ†‹‰•‹ƒǯ•Ƥ‰Š–ˆ‘”–Š‡‘ ‡ƒ By the ADEX Team

The Asia Dive Expo (ADEX) has become a familiar SHARK CONSERVATION AND EDUCATION name to many dive enthusiasts around the world. Every year, the show is dedicated to an iconic marine Run for the past nine years by the Underwater360 species or conservation issue, with the show’s events group (UW360), ADEX 2018 broke attendance records designed to heighten conservation awareness about yet again, with 62,079 visitors over the three days. the chosen species or topic. This year, ADEX returned The biggest and longest-running dive expo in Asia is, to its roots by dedicating 2018 to sharks – the very unsurprisingly, a mandatory event for the most Ƥ”•–ƒ”‹‡ ”‡ƒ–—”‡™ƒ•†‡†‹ ƒ–‡†–‘„ƒ  avid divers. in 2010. The dive expo serves as one of the best platforms ”‡•‡–ƒ–‹‘•ˆ‘ —•‹‰‘–Š‡•‡ƒ‰‹Ƥ ‡– for divers to catch up and share their latest dive animals were shared by a host of renowned speakers, exploits, but more importantly, it provides a conducive educating visitors about sharks’ roles in the marine environment for ocean lovers to learn about how they ecosystem, the value of , and how can best protect the ocean and its species. everyone can play a part in ensuring the long-term Additionally, ADEX is a platform for businesses protection of these species. and organisations – dive operators, equipment Our most powerful tool against extinction is manufacturers, and national tourism boards – to education – encouraging each successive generation spread the message of responsible stewardship of to love the ocean and create far-reaching waves of the ocean. change is what ADEX aspires to achieve.

26 | SDAA OVERVIEW OF ADEX SINGAPORE 2018 ADEX 2018 BY THE NUMBERS

DAY 1 (6 April) 2 (7 April) 3 (8 April)

CONSUMER 5,963 18,934 16,113 LOCAL VISITORS 36,254

TRADE 9,927 6,254 4,888 FOREIGN VISITORS 25,825

TOTAL VISITORS 15,890 25,188 21,001 TOTAL VISITORS 62,079

SCIENTISTS’ FORUM

The Scientists’ Forum took place on the last day of ADEX, with accomplished marine scientists gathered to discuss the marine and dive issues of the day. Topics ranged from the basics of climate Šƒ‰‡–‘–Š‡‘ˆ–‡—ˆ‘”‡•‡‡‡ơ‡ –•–Šƒ– ‹– ‘—Ž†Šƒ˜‡‘•’‡ ‹Ƥ ƒ”‹‡•’‡ ‹‡•ǤŠ‡’ƒ‡Ž of scientists included Kathy Xu, Karenne Tun, Judi Lowe, Alex Rose, George Woodman, Benjamin Kahn and Hazel Oakley.

OCEAN18 FESTIVAL Other key speakers included Ocean Ramsey, the ADEX Shark Ambassador 2018–19, who discussed The OCEAN18 Festival Launch Party brought together the importance of sharks in the ecosystem, and all the speakers to celebrate the start of ADEX 2018. ƤŽƒ‡”‘‰‡”—•ǡ™Š‘•Šƒ”‡†Š‹•‡š’‡”‹‡ ‡ Emceed by ADEX Master of Ceremonies, Jamie ƤŽ‹‰ˆ‘”–Š‡ƒ”–Š†‘ —‡–ƒ”›•‡”‹‡• Monmaneerat, the party featured an exciting Blue Planet II. line-up of 18 key speakers, with Ernie Brooks, the Guests were also treated to a gorgeous display ADEX Ocean Ambassador Emeritus, opening the of mermaid gowns by Mermaid Alliance’s Ryan night sharing about his lifetime of ocean exploration. Novelline and Anne Adijuwono. ADEX 2018 POST REPORT

OCEAN18 FILM FESTIVAL

Š‹•›‡ƒ”ǯ•ƤŽˆ‡•–‹˜ƒŽŠ‹‰ŠŽ‹‰Š–‡†’ƒ”–‹ —Žƒ”ƒ”‹‡ •’‡ ‹‡•–Šƒ–Šƒ˜‡„‡‡ƒơ‡ –‡†„›Š—ƒƒ –‹˜‹–‹‡•Ǥ Š‡ƤŽ•‹ Ž—†‡†Sharks of the Sulu Sea: Whale Sharks by LAMAVE, which documents a group of scientists studying large marine vertebrates such as manta rays and whale sharks. Films such as Plastic Ocean by Craig Leeson and Sea of Life by Julia Barnes examine the destructive impact our actions are having on marine ecosystems. On a more optimistic note, Patterns of the Ocean by The Jetlagged and Birth of a Marine Park by Victor Tang both document the successful implementation of marine protected areas in Indonesia and Singapore. Attendees also got to see excerpts about the wonders of coral reefs from the internationally-acclaimed BBC Earth documentary series Blue Planet II.

PHOTO/VIDEO ZONE

One of the most popular corners of ADEX, the Photo/Video Zone was, once again, a back-to-back serving of famous personalities, beautiful images, and insider tips on how to capture award-winning images like the pros. Many presentations only had standing room, with crowds lured in by underwater photography superstars like Laurent Ballesta, Roger Munns, Marty Snyderman, Aaron Wong, Imran Ahmad, Michael Aw and Tim Ho. The talented professionals wowed audiences with tales of adventure, breathtaking images, and invaluable insights. The speakers waded into the crowd and mingled after their talks to meet fans, answer questions, and provide inspiration for aspiring shooters beginning their underwater photography journey.

BOOK FESTIVAL

At the ADEX 2018 Book Festival, part of the Ocean18 Festival celebrations, visitors got their hands on the latest books from renowned writers and underwater photographers from around the world. Speakers gave in-depth insights on their books on the main stage and visitors had their books signed by their favourite authors.

28 | SDAA PRODUCT PRESENTATION ZONE

Featuring the latest gadgets and gear on the market, the Product Presentation Zone was the go-to place for visitors wanting in on the next big thing in the dive industry. Visitors were treated to an array of product launches by the biggest names in the industry, and interested buyers had the opportunity to chat with the manufacturers and retailers of their favourite brands.

BUSINESS FORUM

‡Ž†‡š Ž—•‹˜‡Ž›‘–Š‡Ƥ”•–†ƒ›‘ˆǡ–Š‡ Business Forum brought together successful businesspeople for the Sustainable Diving Think Tank and Dialogue session. Each segment of the diving industry was represented on the panel; Lauren Sida from Six Senses Laamu (dive ); Mik Jennings from Worldwide Dive and Sail (liveaboard); Danny Dwyer from PADI and Jacki Ng from SSI ( agencies); Chee Hoon from Fourth Element (equipment manufacturer); and Jason Isley from Scubazoo (underwater photography and videography). Throughout the dialogue, the panel discussed how they are building sustainability into their business models, where they are falling short and what opportunities and challenges they are meeting along the way.

KIDS’ ZONE

This year’s Kids’ Zone featured two stations for ›‘—‰˜‹•‹–‘”•ǤŠƒ” —ƒ”†‹ƒǯ•„‘‘–Š‘ơ‡”‡† children the chance to get temporary tattoos, expand their creativity at the colouring station, and take part in educational quizzes and games – not forgetting the Shark Guardian Drone making its rounds, quickly becoming a crowd favourite with visitors of all ages. For young ones with an interest in science, Sharks4Kids allowed children to become a Junior Shark Scientist, with the chance to do their own “work-up” on plush sharks. Each student earned a Junior Shark  ‹‡–‹•–‡”–‹Ƥ ƒ–‡ƒˆ–‡” ‘’Ž‡–‹‘Ǥ ADEX 2018 POST REPORT

AQUATIC ACTIVITIES

The swimming pool drew huge attention from the ”‘™†ǡƒ• Š‹Ž†”‡ƒ†‘Ǧ†‹˜‡”•‰‘––Š‡‹”Ƥ”•– taste of diving under the constant supervision of professional dive instructors, while others tried their hand at freediving with top freedivers Andrea Zucharri, Jonathan Chong, Jean-Pol François and Suzy Lim. The local and rugby societies gave riveting demonstrations, introducing the unacquainted to these lesser-known water sports.

TEKDIVE CONFERENCE

As in previous years, the TekDive Conference brought together speakers, enthusiasts, and those curious to learn more, driven by the desire to explore the ‘Ƥ‡•‘ˆƒ ƒ˜‡ǡƒ™”‡ ǡ‘”Ƥ†—†‹• ‘˜‡”‡†Ž‹ˆ‡ forms lurking in the deeper ocean trenches. The conference has become a go-to event for those who are passionate about tek diving – a place where they can network, share their experiences and tap into knowledge from the veterans and experts. The various presentations included topics on prime underwater environments, tek diving adventures and experiences, as well as the latest technology.

HAENYEO DIVERS

ƒ‡ơ‘”––‘”‡ ‘‰‹•‡‘‡‘ˆ–Š‡’‹‘‡‡”•‘ˆ freediving, ADEX invited South ’s , or sea women, to share a part of their heritage with an international crowd. For as long as Koreans can remember, the haenyeo have dived the waters •—””‘—†‹‰ ‡Œ—ǡŠƒ”˜‡•–‹‰•‡ƒ™‡‡†ƒ†•Š‡ŽŽƤ•Š at depths well over 10 metres. They have become emblematic of the society that inhabits Jeju, and were placed on the list of intangible cultural heritage of Š—ƒ‹–›„›–Š‡‹–‡†ƒ–‹‘•†— ƒ–‹‘ƒŽǡ ‹‡–‹Ƥ  and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) in November 2016. ADEX visitors were given the rare opportunity to witness the haenyeo in action – the only place possible outside of Jeju.

FREEDIVING WORKSHOPS

Top freedivers, Andrea Zucharri, Jonathan Chong, Jean-Pol François and Suzy Lim, conducted workshops for participants wanting to experience ˆ”‡‡†‹˜‹‰ˆ‘”–Š‡Ƥ”•––‹‡ǡ‰‹˜‹‰˜‹•‹–‘”•–Š‡ Šƒ ‡ to get up close and personal with the sport’s experts. FREEDIVING/MERMAID ZONE

Visitors thronged the Freediving/Mermaid Zone to sit in on presentations by expert freedivers, even striking up chats with individual speakers around the stage. The speakers spoke of their love for the sport, their ƒ Š‹‡˜‡‡–•‹–Š‡Ƥ‡Ž†ǡƒ†ƒ›‡’Šƒ•‹•‡†–Š‡ accessibility of freediving for casual divers – all that is needed to start freediving is simply basic training. Speakers also showcased the latest diving and underwater photography gear, and discussed new trends such as underwater hocky and rugby. Many speakers also expounded the importance of environmental research and conservation.

MERMAIDS

Guests at ADEX were treated to the sight of mythical sirens of the sea performing in the dive tank and swimming pool. There were gasps of awe all around as mermaids such as Hidy , Dada Li, Eve Young, Syrena entertained and engaged onlookers. Adults and children alike were entranced by the beauty of the mermaids, with huge crowds forming around the spectacles. ‡•’‹–‡„‡‹‰ˆ”‘†‹ơ‡”‡–’ƒ”–•‘ˆ–Š‡™‘”Ž†ǡ–Š‡ mermaids, some of whom are also accomplished scuba divers, freedivers and underwater photographers, have a common mission – to share their passion for the ocean and educate people about marine conservation and the protection of the ocean’s inhabitants.

LIVE JUDGING OF ADEX VOICE OF THE OCEAN COMPETITION 2018

A crowd of over 200 visitors, speakers, trade visitors and exhibitors gathered in front of the main stage, patiently anticipating the start of ADEX Voice of the Ocean 2018 Competition Live Judging. The competition was a celebration of visual representations of the ocean and the creatures that inhabit it, drawing entries from all over the world. For this year’s live judging, we were honoured to have Laurent Ballesta, Ernie Brooks, Marty Synderman, Scott Tuason, Roger Munns, Michael Aw, Doug Perrine and Tobias Friedrich on our judging panel.

ADEX 2019 Preparations are currently underway for next year’s event. Get ready to have your expectations blown out of the water – it’s going to be even grander and more inclusive than ever! Think a dive show couldn’t possibly get more exciting? Think again!

31 | SDAA ADEXVOICE SINGAPORE 2018 OF THE OCEAN 2018

CATEGORY: Photo of the Year TITLE: Morning Flight By Filippo Borghi (Italy) UWPHOTOGRAPHY

The annual ADEX Voice of the Ocean Photo/Video/Art Competition celebrates visual representations of the ocean and its many creatures. The best works by underwater photographers and videographers are presented and judged live by a celebrated panel of distinguished experts. Here are the winners of this year’s competition. Congratulations to all! To submit pictures for next year’s competition, visit www.adex.asia

UWPHOTOGRAPHY

CATEGORY: Compact Camera Photo of the Year TITLE: Leave Us Alone By Stephanie Quek (Singapore)

CATEGORY: Environmental Photo of the Year TITLE: Reef and Nets By Anders Nyberg (Sweden)

34 | SDAA CATEGORY: Best of Show (Shark) Photo of the Year TITLE: Untitled By Wai Hoe Mok (Singapore)

35 | SDAA UWPHOTOGRAPHY

CATEGORY: Underwater Fashion Photo of the Year TITLE: Red Seduction By Andrew Lau (Hong Kong)

36 | SDAA CATEGORY: Video of the Year TITLE: Finisterra By Erick Higuera ()

37 | SDAA UWPHOTOGRAPHY

CATEGORY: Artwork of the Year TITLE: Corals of Fiji By Wangye Shiming (Singapore)

38 | SDAA

ADEX BEIJING 2018 ADEX CHINA BEIJING

www.adex.china

31 AUGUST – 3 SEPTEMBER 2018 ADEX BEIJING 2018

ADEX Beijing’s fourth show will be taking place at the Poly International Exhibition Centre, organised by Underwater360 in partnership with Shenteng (Beijing) Science and Technology Trade Co. Ltd. Held in conjunction with Beijing Ocean Week, the festival brings a series of celebrations with an educational take on conservation and diving, and is supported by the China Underwater Association and Beijing Chaoyang District Commission of Commerce. In particular, the show will see an exciting twist on the Voice of the Ocean photography competition: Photographers from all corners of the Earth are invited to team up in groups of three for this year’s Voice of the Ocean International Team Challenge. ADEX Beijing Ocean360 Awards will also be in its second year, with five different award categories to recognise individuals who have made significant contributions to the ocean in their own way. The event will also host the ADEX Ocean18 Festival, where we will bring you the best speakers in the fields of art, photography, film, music and science.

LOCATION: Beijing Poly International Auction Co., Ltd.Hongyan Rd, Chaoyang Qu, Beijing Shi, China, 100122 ۱мকဣ≁ЅКخ―᠘

40 | SDAA GROWTH OVER 4 YEARS 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 ADEX ADEX ADEX ADEX ADEX SHANGHAI BEIJING BEIJING BEIJING & SHENZHEN BEIJING & GUANGZHOU Booths Booths Booths Booths 132 148 161 209 Exhibitors Exhibitors Exhibitors Exhibitors 64 66 90 122

Visitors 41,242

Visitors 31,856 Visitors Visitors 16,200 23,000

OCEAN360 AWARD

Earth is a blue planet, with the ocean accounting for 70 percent of the Earth’s surface. The ocean is a treasure trove of resources, and is crucial to the survival of mankind. Over the years, our liquid planet has been subjected to various degrees of pollution, including – but not limited to – the reckless dumping of sewage and garbage, and overfishing. OCEAN360 Awards Categories: In the face of such adversity, people around the world have increasingly • Support for marine welfare mobilised to help implement measures in protection of the ocean. To • Advancement for marine science encourage and publicise such movements, we will be holding an awards • Advancing marine culture and education ceremony at ADEX Beijing. We hope to raise awareness of the importance of • Most impactful marine literature and art conservation by presenting success stories, and introducing role models. (photography, painting, music, film or news) • Outstanding performance in marine tourism

SHENGTENG CHINESE UNDERWATER ASSOCIATION the domestic dive industry by (Beijing) Trading Co., Ltd expanding foreign diving contacts Since 1959, the Chinese Underwater and enhancing friendly cooperation Shengteng is located in the heart of Association (CUA) has been organising between international organisations Beijing’s CBD. A well-known marketing and promoting diving throughout the and branding company, it is a hub for country. It is a nation-wide sports and social and domestic associations.. a variety of corporate communications organisation, as well as a group member activities with its own lifestyle centre. of the All-China Sports Federation and They have hosted makeover sessions, the highest mass organisation of scuba BEIJING CHAOYANG DISTRICT celebrity interviews and designer brand diving in China. CUA is also China’s sole COMMISSION OF COMMERCE ᤉᦑₗ⁰ㄇᔹဣ⥰ص―launches. In 2016, Shengteng launched representative in the International Diving ᠘ a mini television series about the ocean. Organization. CUA was formed by the initiative The series was launched in conjunction of China’s diving industry, including dive The Beijing Chaoyang District Commission with Beijing Tourism and featured associations, companies, diving schools, of Commerce handles domestic several celebrities. and athletes who are dive enthusiasts. The and foreign trade, foreign economic Shengteng is comprised of four major association is a non-profit social organisation cooperation and the development of tiers: Brand communications, public under the jurisdiction of the State General relations, telecast services, and mass Administration of Sports. modern service industry guidelines, media. The Shengteng marketing team policies and laws, and rules and has served more than 500 Chinese and CUA MISSION regulations. They also research internal international brands. Shengteng also The aim of CUA is to provide a common venue and external trade, foreign economic provides local guidance services for for dive enthusiasts and to introduce diving to cooperation and development strategies foreign media organisations. beginners. CUA also promotes the growth of in modern services industries.

41 | SDAA UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY TEAM CHALLENGE

CHINA Organised by ADEX VOICE 2018 ADEX Voice of the Ocean is back this year, but with a twist. This year’s contest is centred around unity; alone, we are just OF THE drops in the ocean, but together, we can make waves of change.

In this spirit, Voice of the Ocean 18 is an international team challenge – form a group of three and decide on a team name LIVE JUDGING that best represents your team. Each team will submit a portfolio of five images, either under the Compact Camera or S DSLR category, fulfilling the five sub-categories:

1 Macro Stand to win up to 2 Wide-angle CNY 3 Animal Behaviour 200,000 4 Fashion worth of prizes! 5 Natural Environment Grand Prize Submit by: August 8, 2018 Submission fee: USD30 per portfolio

CNY15,000 We look forward to seeing you and your team at in cash ADEX CHINA Voice of the Ocean18!

To sign up and read the full guidelines, visit: www.adexchina.cn

Photo by: ZhuangJingGong RickyShuShu Yen-YiLee OwenYen Huai Su MarcoChang MenTu

24–26 AUGUST 2018 ADEX GUANGZHOU 2018

ADEX Guangzhou will be held in conjunction This August, join us at the Guangzhou Tower for the with the Blue101 World Mermaid Championship 2018, ADEX Guangzhou 2018 Ocean Festival. Combining and supported by Swarovski Optic, Guangzhou Model ADEX Hong Kong Ocean Summit and the ADEX Industry Association, Guangzhou Advertisement Shenzhen Ocean Festival into one of the biggest dive Association Guangzhou, and Kaichuang Investment shows in Greater China, ADEX Guangzhou will surely Ltd. With an overall Champion Prize of RMB200,000 be a show not to miss! in cash plus RMB500,000 worth of prizes, the biggest In conjunction with ADEX Guangzhou will bring together the very mermaid championship in Asia will blow you away! best of the diving world – from And let’s not forget ADEX Beijing 2018, held one manufacturers to training agencies, there would week later, from August 31 to September 3. It is be everything a diver could need. Look forward supported by the Chinese Underwater Association to workshops and presentations from the world- and the only Ocean Week in Beijing endorsed renowned photographers, ocean artists, marine by the Beijing Chaoyang District Commission of conservationists, scientists, technical divers, and Commence. Save the date and join us at the two WORLD MERMAID freedivers. For the young ones, we offer hands-on most exciting dive shows and ocean festivals, CHAMPIONSHIP 2018 W‚¯ƒ¨3+educational activities for children of all ages. held back-to-back in China!

How to get to Canton Tower

1. Take the metro line 3, alight at Canton Tower Station and leave from Exit A. 2. Take bus 11, 262, 468 or tour line 1, and alight at Guang zhouta Xi (Canton Tower West) Station. 3. Take bus 121a, 121, 204, 262 and tour line 2, alight at Zhujiang Dijingyuan Station and walk along Yiyuan East Road to fnd the East Square of the tower. 4. Take the tram from Wanshengwei Metro Station of Line 4 / Line 8 straight to Canton Tower.

Organised by Co-organised by LOCATION: 44 | SDAA Canton Tower (ᡂ‰㠁), Haizhu, Guangzhou, China www.blue101.asia ᐙ㖃ᦑص‰ᡂ

SEALIFE

Drop-Dead Gorgeous THE BLUE DRAGON Beautiful but deadly, Glaucus atlanticus, commonly known as the blue dragon, is not what one would expect of a mere slug. Not only is it visually stunning; it possesses abilities unlike any other creature on Earth.

APPEARANCE: The blue dragon has three pairs of arms, each one shorter than the last as they go further down its body. On these arms are single rows of tendrils called cerata which hold stinging cells – there can be up to 84 of these on a single individual. The dorsal side is a silvery grey colour while the ventral side is a light blue. Its feet on the dorsal side have dark blue stripes. The jagged teeth of this gastropod mollusc help it to scrape food particles and draw them into its mouth

46 | SDAA DISTRIBUTION: Atlantic, †‹ƒ ƒ† ƒ ‹Ƥ  ‡ƒ• CLASS: Gastropoda

OTHER NAMES: Sea swallow, blue angel, blue glaucus, blue dragon, blue sea slug, blue ocean slug ƒ ‹Ƥ Ocean Atlantic Indian Ocean Ocean

SIZE: Up to

centimetres long

1 Though part of the 3 It only feeds on venomouss nudibranch family, creatures, often much larger the blue dragon is very than itself, such as the †‹ơ‡”‡–ˆ”‘›‘—”ƒ˜‡”ƒ‰‡ Portuguese man o’ war sea slug, and is known to and can deliver a powerful be pelagic, using the ocean sting to paralyse its prey currents to carry it along

2 The blue dragon 4 The immune system ƪ‘ƒ–•—’•‹†‡†‘™ for of a blue dragon is built to ƒ‘—ƪƒ‰‡ǣ –•„Ž—‡•‹†‡ sist the venom of its prey faces upwards to blend with the blue water, while the downwards facing silver side blends in with the ocean’s surface

Nematocyst inside cell

The male During matin h female reproductive organ reproductive organsnss willill Discharged is especially large release an egg strin nematocyst and hooked containing about 20 eggs

5 All blue dragons are 6 When two blue dragons mate, they both 7 These little slugs have the amazing hermaphrodites, meaning they produce egg strings. These egg strings lack a ability to swallow the nematocysts have both male and female hard substrate to attach to, and are often left of its venomous prey. These reproductive organs –‘ƪ‘ƒ–ˆ”‡‡Ž›‹–Š‡™ƒ–‡”‘”ƒ”‡’Žƒ ‡†‘–Š‡ venomous cells are stored in the remains of their prey until the larvae hatch extremities of their cerata, making the blue dragon’s sting pack an even more powerful punch

47 | SDAA AWARDS SUSTAINABILITY GOES A LONG WAY

Now on their second year, the BlueGreen360 Awards celebrate businesses and individuals that are leading the way in implementing sustainable solutions in their day-to-day operations and sharing their knowledge and resources with the wider community. Announced at ADEX Singapore 2018, this year’s winners have all exhibited their commitment to protect marine biodiversity, successfully collaborating with various groups to promote on-the-ground marine ‘•‡”˜ƒ–‹‘‡ơ‘”–•Ȃ„‡‡Ƥ––‹‰„‘–Š–Š‡‡˜‹”‘‡–ƒ†–Š‡Ž‘ ƒŽ ‘—‹–›Ȃ™Š‹Ž‡„‡ ‘‹‰‹•’‹”ƒ–‹‘• for others to do the same. Congratulations to all the winners!

The BlueGreen360 Awards provide an incentive and recognition for businesses that have adopted sustainable practices in their operations. We hope that the awards will encourage more businesses in the marine tourism industry to be more environment-friendly so it becomes the norm and not the exception in the years to come. Rili Djohani, Executive Director, Coral Triangle Center BlueGreen360 Awards judge

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT OPPOSITE PAGE The winners of this year’s awards Ceningan Divers is a are Ceningan Divers, PADI 5 star dive resort Nicolas Resimont, situated on Evolution Diving Resort, Ceningan Island, Reef Seen Divers’ Resort and ‘ơ–Š‡•‘—–Š ‘ƒ•–‘ˆƒŽ‹ǡ Kurabesi Explorer liveaboard Indonesia

48 | SDAA GGG

AWARDS

Dive Operator of the Year CENINGAN DIVERS

Ceningan Divers is an eco-resort known for its policy of having zero plastic products on site. They have successfully boycotted the use of single-use plastic products such as travel-sized toiletries, water bottles, and straws. The resort has ‘‹––‡†–‘•‹‰‹Ƥ ƒ–‡ƒ•—”‡•–‘ —–†‘™‹–• ™ƒ–‡”—•‡ǡ•— Šƒ•‹•–ƒŽŽ‹‰Ž‘™Ǧƪ‘™•Š‘™‡”Š‡ƒ†•ǡ †—ƒŽƪ—•Š–‘‹Ž‡–•ǡƒ†—•‹‰™‡ŽŽ™ƒ–‡”™Š‡’‘••‹„Ž‡Ǥ Š‡•–ƒơƒ–‡‹‰ƒ‹˜‡”•ƒ”‡–”ƒ‹‡†‹ conservation, recycling, and composting. Other eco-friendly measures include added grey water systems, recycling bins, a composting area, and the use of non-chemical products. In 2017, the resort co-founded Ceningan Eco Trust, their community outreach arm for local initiatives and programmes. Through consultations and engagement with the community, Ceningan Divers successfully created a recycling programme on the island. Thanks to this, the resort’s employees, their families and the village have access to unwanted second-hand furniture and reusable materials from the resort. The resort also works with the Lembongan Marine Association and the Nusa Penida Marine Protected Area to take part in beach cleanups, marine debris dives and other local programmes and initiatives. All dive guests are encouraged to go over local regulations, and are made aware of the environmental practices in the resort, in its dive operations, as well as in the Nusa Penida Marine Protected Area where it operates. ADEX BLUEGREEN360 AWARDS

Liveaboard of the Year

AWARDS KURABESI EXPLORER

The Kurabesi Explorer operates under the the local community to catch wild boar while training management of PT Kurabesi Nusantara Indonesia, them as natural forest rangers. The meat is sold to a social enterprise for that was other cities, including Jakarta, becoming an alternative created, and is owned, by Indonesians and is operated source of livelihood for the locals. by local crew. The liveaboard supports local culture The Kurabesi has adopted a host of sustainable and environmental conservation activities in the areas practices aboard. To reduce their plastic waste, plastic where it operates such as Raja Ampat and the Bird’s water bottles and plastic straws are not provided. Head Seascape in West Papua. Instead, each guest is provided with a water tumbler As far as possible, the liveaboard uses local –Šƒ– ƒ„‡”‡ƤŽŽ‡†ˆ”‘–Š‡‹‡”ƒŽ™ƒ–‡”•–ƒ–‹‘Ǥ products to support the economy and works closely Plastic straws have been replaced with bamboo with Bentara Papua Foundation, a local establishment straws, and waste accumulated on-board is processed ABOVE Experience the that initiates social development programmes. One properly upon reaching land. To save on energy untouched beauty such collaborative initiative is the introduction of consumption and reduce pollution, the liveaboard of the islands of Papua aboard the Papuan wild boar meat to other cities. The idea was shuts down its engines for up to four hours on certain Kurabesi Explorer based on the observation that wild boar is one of the mornings or evenings. Guests are encouraged to go „‹‰‰‡•– ’”‡†ƒ–‘”• ‘ˆ –—”–Ž‡ ‡‰‰• ‹ ƒ—•„ƒ‡†‹ Ȃ to less visited areas and travel in small groups to ABOVE RIGHT the longest coast in West Papua, which is known for minimise direct environmental impact, and are The liveaboard works closely with the local being a sanctuary for turtles, including the rare and introduced to conservation activities such as reef community protected leatherback turtle. The Kurabesi works with health monitoring.

50 | SDAA Personality of the Year NICOLAS RESIMONT

GGG Nicolas Resimont is the Director of Nico Dives Cool, a dive shop based in Bali. His love for the ocean and the AWARDS strong desire to protect it prompted him to adopt a zero-waste lifestyle, and he aims to inspire others to †‘–Š‡•ƒ‡Ȃˆ”‘Š‹•†‹˜‡‰—‡•–•ƒ†‡’Ž‘›‡‡•–‘ the local community. “Though it is hard to say what real impact we have ‘‘—” —•–‘‡”•ǡ  ƒ†‡Ƥ‹–‹˜‡Ž›•‡‡ƒ‹ ”‡ƒ•‡‹ awareness among my guests,” says Resimont. “Some of them are already aware of the importance of changing our lifestyle and consumption habits while others agree with our message and realise the impact of their actions.” Frequent beach and underwater cleanups are part of his monthly calendar while his team of local dive guides and are encouraged to do the same. The team is regularly trained by Nicolas on how to respect and protect the ocean and its marine Ž‹ˆ‡Ȃ™Š›–Š‡”‡‹•ƒ‡‡†–‘’”‘–‡ ––Š‡‡˜‹”‘‡– and slow down our consumption of plastic, and how marine life should be treated. In his business, he uses natural cleaning products, non-plastic lunchboxes and reusable water bottles to set the right example to the local community and tourists coming to dive with him. But this is certainly a challenge on a less-developed island such as Bali. Dz ƒŽ‹ǡ‹–ǯ•†‹ƥ —Ž–„‡ ƒ—•‡‡˜‡”›–Š‹‰ƒ––Š‡ supermarket is sold in small quantities and wrapped in plastic packaging. We do most of our shopping at the traditional market, which is great as we support small businesses and eat natural food,” Nicolas explains.

NICOLAS’ TIPS FOR ADOPTING ǧ 

• Go to the beach more often • Actively participate in beach cleanups; you will meet like-minded people who will inspire you • Carry your own reusable bottle; it will become your everyday partner • Keep reusable bags in your vehicle and handbag; it’s always useful and the best to saying no to plastic • Be proud to refuse plastic straws; you don’t need a straw anyway • Educate the people around you, particularly the next generation

’ƒ”–ˆ”‘’”‘˜‹†‹‰Š‹••–ƒơƒ† Ž‹‡–•™‹–Š coral-safe organic sunscreen, Nicolas also hands out ABOVE reusable bottles and bags to encourage those around Beach cleanups and him to follow in his footsteps. “Being environmentally guest education are an integral part of responsible is not a one-day challenge but a whole Nicolas’ lifestyle Šƒ‰‡‹‹†•‡–Ȃ•–‡’„›•–‡’ǡ„‹‰–Š‹‰•™‹ŽŽŠƒ’’‡Ǥdz

51 | SDAA ADEX BLUEGREEN360 AWARDS

The Award celebrates the dive operator with the lowest environmental impact ƒ‘‰͘͘͝‡„‡”•ƒ ”‘••‹‡ ‘—–”‹‡•ǡ‹†‡–‹Ƥ‡† through an on-site evaluation. Through the UN Environmental Programme and Reef-World led Green Fins initiative, member operators are provided with annual assessments, training and consultation to improve their compliance to a Code of Conduct of best environmental practice for marine tourism.

LEFT BELOW LEFT Evolution Diving Evolution is fully is located on equipped with tech Island diving essentials

REDUCE • Evolution has not used plastic straws in their ”‡•–ƒ—”ƒ–ˆ‘”‘˜‡”Ƥ˜‡›‡ƒ”•Ǥ • The resort uses highly sustainable materials such as bamboo and other local materials. • Classes are conducted in eco-classrooms. These rooms are naturally ventilated by the cool ocean breeze and do not have air-conditioning installed. • Cue cards are placed strategically in guest rooms to encourage guests to reduce their carbon footprint „›–—”‹‰‘ơ–Š‡Ž‹‰Š–•ǡ–Š‡ƒ‹”Ǧ ‘†‹–‹‘‹‰ǡƒ† reusing towels and bedding. • ‡ƤŽŽƒ„Ž‡•‘ƒ’ƒ†•Šƒ’‘‘ ‘–ƒ‹‡”•ƒ”‡—•‡† in the bathrooms, while guests have an unlimited •—’’Ž›‘ˆ™ƒ–‡”ˆ”‘”‡ƤŽŽƒ„Ž‡Œ—‰•Ǥ • Lampshades are made out of recycled cans and Green Fins Award Ƥš‡†™‹–ŠŽ‹‰Š–„—Ž„•ǡ‘”‡–Šƒ†‘—„Ž‹‰–Š‡ EVOLUTION DIVING RESORT lifetime of each bulb and reducing the electricity needed to power them. • Due to a lack of proper recycling facilities in the Evolution is a cosy dive resort with top-of-the-line , only rechargeable batteries AWARDS facilities for tech, trimix and CCR diving. are used and guests are encouraged to bring As a business that prides itself in being progressive, home their used batteries where they can be it seeks to create quality divers with good skills and properly recycled. awareness for the environment, and their part in protecting it. Evolution ensures that they and their REUSE divers have minimal impact on the island where they • Used detergent bottles are used as plant pots in are located, and that they adhere to the eco-friendly the nursery. principles of “Reduce, Reuse, Recycle”. • Empty wine bottles are cut in half and used as light Ƥ––‹‰•Ǥ • The reception desk is made of old wood from discarded items such as boats and drying racks. Environmental protection • has sat at the heart of Evolution’s Other items have been used to create underwater business model from the habitats for the local house reef. beginning. Since joining Green RECYCLE Fins in 2012, the Evolution • Biodegradable waste is composted and used for team has developed concrete plants and fresh herb garden. environmental policies into their • All used materials are separated and sent to proper day-to-day operations ”‡ › Ž‹‰ˆƒ ‹Ž‹–‹‡•‘ơ–Š‡‹•Žƒ†Ǥ • Used boat oil is returned to the mainland and Chloe Harvey, Programmes Manager, Reef-World Foundation, BlueGreen360 Awards judge recycled at the local petrol station.

52 | SDAA AWARDS

Hotel/Resort of the Year REEF SEEN DIVERS’ RESORT

–Š‡‡ƒ”Ž›͕͔͝͝•ǡŽ‘ ƒŽƤ•Š‡”‡‹‡—–‡”ƒǡƒŽ‹ ‘ŽŽ‡ –‡†ƒ“—ƒ”‹—Ƥ•Š„›—•‹‰†‡•–”— –‹˜‡Ƥ•Š‹‰ methods such as cynide, dynamite, and tiger nets –Šƒ––‘‘ƒŽ‘•–‡˜‡”›–Š‹‰‘ơ–Š‡”‡‡ˆ•Ǥ•–Š‡ ˜‡”›Ƥ”•–†‹˜‡„—•‹‡••‹–Š‡ƒ”‡ƒǡ‡‡ˆ‡‡‹˜‡”•ǯ Resort felt deeply concerned about this unsustainable ’”ƒ –‹ ‡‘ˆƤ•Š‹‰ƒ†‹‹–‹ƒ–‡†ƒ ‘˜‡”•ƒ–‹‘–‘ †‹• —••ƒ†‡†— ƒ–‡Ƥ•Š‡”‡‘–Š‡‹’‘”–ƒ ‡‘ˆ a healthy ecosystem and how they can participate in •—•–ƒ‹ƒ„Ž‡Ƥ•Š‹‰’”ƒ –‹ ‡•Ǥ To tackle the issue, the resort has been guiding ƒ†‡’Ž‘›‹‰›‘—‰Ž‘ ƒŽƤ•Š‡”‡•‹ ‡͖͔͔͙ǡ teaching them safe dive techniques and, more importantly, inspiring them to maintain and protect the marine environment. Reef Seen Divers’ Resort also collaborates with the Pecalang Laut (Sea Patrol) –‘‘‹–‘”Ƥ•Š‹‰ƒ –‹˜‹–‹‡•‹–Š‡•ŠƒŽŽ‘™’ƒ”–‘ˆ Pemuteran Bay. In October 2017, the resort successfully organised –Š‡Ƥ”•–‡‡ˆ‡‡‘•‡”˜ƒ–‹‘‡‡ȋȌǤŠ‡ ‡˜‡–™ƒ•–Š‡Ƥ”•–‘ˆ‹–•‹†ǡ„”‹‰‹‰–‘‰‡–Š‡” important players in the dive and resort industry as ™‡ŽŽƒ•–Š‡Ž‘ ƒŽƤ•Š‡”‡ƒ†›‘—–ŠǤŠ‡‡˜‡–™ƒ• important in facilitating a dialogue session, where –Š‡Ƥ•Š‡”‹‡•†‡’ƒ”–‡–Š‡Ž†•‡˜‡”ƒŽ’ƒ‡Ž discussions with local communities regarding the

Imran Ahmad ‡™Ƥ•Š‡”‹‡•”‡‰—Žƒ–‹‘•ƒ†—’†ƒ–‡•‘–—”–Ž‡ conservation methods. In 1992, the Turtle Hatchery was set up to protect sea turtles and their eggs in response to the cruel practice of turtle slaughtering in Bali. After 26 ›‡ƒ”•ǡ–Š‡ƒ”‡ƒŠƒ••‡‡ƒ–”ƒ•ˆ‘”ƒ–‹‘Ȃ‹–‹•‘™ mandatory for anyone who accidently catches a –—”–Ž‡‘”Ƥ†•ƒ–—”–Ž‡‡•––‘‹ˆ‘”‡‡ˆ‡‡ Divers’ Resort immediately. Individuals are rewarded ™‹–Šƒ•ƒŽŽ–‘‡ǡ™Š‹Ž‡Ƥ•Š‡”‡ƒ”‡‰‹˜‡ƒ„‹‰‰‡” compensation for the lost catch and damaged nets. Reef Seen’s sustainable practices include the use of septic tank sewage treatment plants to treat waste –Š”‘—‰Šƒ‘š›‰‡ƒ–‡† Šƒ„‡”ǤŠ‡•‡‡ƫ—‡–• ƒ be recycled for garden irrigation or absorbed into the ground without harming the environment. The resort also utilises solar panels to power their BioRock reef restoration project, Bio-Wreck.

TOP RIGHT A BioRock reef Release of baby restoration project, turtles from the Turtle Bio-Wreck Hatchery

53 | SDAA SCUBA 101

DIVING WITH A SORE BACK Back pain is a common occurrence these days with sedentary lifestyles, but it needn’t deter divers from enjoying their time in the water. Divers can manage chronic back pain whilst travelling and diving, plus take steps to minimise the chance of back injuries reoccurring By Kathryn Curzon Shutterstock

THE RIGHT GEAR upper body sizes. BCDs vary to accommodate these †‹ơ‡”‡ ‡•ǡ™‹–Šƒ”ƒ‰‡‘ˆ•‹œ‡•ƒ†’‘•‹–‹‘• available. It is a good idea to also look at the pocket Choosing the right dive gear is important in positions for weights and maybe even consider a minimising back pain, particularly lower back pain. diver wing instead of the traditional BCD design. Whilst most divers learn with a belt around the waist, and weights distributed around the Suits waistline, there are other options for those prone Being cold can easily aggravate a sore back when to back pain. Weights placed in control shivering and when muscles tense up. It is essential device (BCD) pockets and a weight strapped to the to choose the right , or drysuit and thermal –ƒ ƒŠ‡Ž’–‘–ƒ‡™‡‹‰Š–‘ơ–Š‡Ž‘™‡”„ƒ ™Š‡ undersuit combination, that will maintain good body diving. Positioning weights on a belt at the front of warmth even after a full day of diving. The addition the waistline, instead of towards the back, also helps of a thermal undergarment under neoprene, such –‘–ƒ‡’”‡••—”‡‘ơ–Š‡Ž‘™‡”•’‹‡ƒ† ƒ„‡‘”‡ ƒ•ƒ–Š‡”ƒŽ”ƒ•Š˜‡•–ǡ ƒƒ‡ƒ„‹‰†‹ơ‡”‡ ‡–‘ comfortable. It is important to have a a the body temperature without the need to purchase diver’s body position and trim when making changes a thicker wetsuit. There are excellent thermal –‘†‹˜‡™‡‹‰Š– ‘Ƥ‰—”ƒ–‹‘•ǡ–‘‡•—”‡–Š‡†‹˜‡”‹• undersuits available for drysuit diving and even going to be able to move with minimal drag and isn’t heated vest options for the cold-blooded diver. arching their back excessively. If mobility is an issue, an exposure-protection suit with a front-entry or easily-reachable zips is BCD helpful. Consideration should be given to ease of ABOVE Choosing the right The right buoyancy control device is also important entry and exit from the suit and, if purchasing a semi- gear is essential and divers should try a variety of styles and brands dry or drysuit, whether the wrist and neck seals can when dealing with a sore back „‡ˆ‘”‡•‡––Ž‹‰‘‘‡Ǥ‹ơ‡”‡–’‡‘’Ž‡Šƒ˜‡ be released with minimal tugging that could strain on a dive †‹ơ‡”‡–•’‹ƒŽŽ‡‰–Š•ƒ†•Šƒ’‡•ǡ’Ž—•†‹ơ‡”‡– the back.

54 | SDAA Mask and Fins preferable. Warm drinks and high energy snacks For those who struggle to bend or turn their necks, are also helpful. Š‘‘•‡ ƒ”‡ˆ—ŽŽ›„‡ˆ‘”‡’—” Šƒ•‹‰ƒƒ•ƒ†Ƥ•Ǥ A simple kit for relieving back pain can make ’‡ǦŠ‡‡ŽƤ•™‹–Š•’”‹‰Ƥ•–”ƒ’•ƒŽŽ‘™ˆ‘”‡ƒ•› ƒ„‹‰†‹ơ‡”‡ ‡™Š‡‘ƒ”‡‘–‡†‹˜‹‰–”‹’ƒ† removal with minimal bending required. A wide unable to access a physiotherapist. Include pain Ƥ‡Ž†Ǧ‘ˆǦ˜‹‡™ƒ•Š‡Ž’•”‡†— ‡–Š‡‡‡†–‘–™‹•– ”‡Ž‹‡ˆƒ†ƒ–‹Ǧ‹ƪƒƒ–‘”›‡†‹ ƒ–‹‘ǡƒ–‡‹• or crane the neck during dives and allows or cricket ball for self-massage of the back, a hot to fully enjoy the view. water bottle for easing muscle tension, a lumbar

WEIGHTS BCD SUITS MASK AND FINS

DURING THE DIVE support brace, and a length of physiotherapist band Once a diver has the right gear set up for their for stretching leg muscles without mobilising a painful needs, it’s time to get in the water and discover •’‹‡Ǥ –‹•ƒŽ•‘™‘”–ŠƤ†‹‰–Š‡ ‘–ƒ –†‡–ƒ‹Ž•‘ˆ ways to minimise the risk of injury. Divers shouldn’t a local physiotherapist and massage therapist prior be afraid to ask for help – that alone is important in to any injury occurring, if possible. proper back care. Divers can ask their dive buddy, Long-term care is important to minimise the or dive guide, to help carry their dive kit to the water impact of an existing spinal injury and to prevent or boat to help minimise spinal compression from the future injuries from occurring. Yoga and pilates are weight of dive gear. Consideration should be given ’‘’—Žƒ”ƒ†‡ơ‡ –‹˜‡ˆ‘”’”‡˜‡–‹‰„ƒ ‹Œ—”‹‡•„› to the best water entry and exit technique, ‹’”‘˜‹‰ƪ‡š‹„‹Ž‹–›ǡ ‘”‡•–”‡‰–Šǡƒ†’‘•–—”‡Ǥƒ  preferably alternatives to giant strides and back rolls problems are sometimes due to tight muscles and that can load and strain the back. Sitting at the edge the combination of stretching and core strength are of a boat or jetty, before putting on dive gear, can helpful for spinal relaxation and protection. Swimming minimise back pain and load. The same can also be can be helpful for easing back pain, though it can said for putting dive kit on once in the water. When aggravate certain back problems due to spinal arching exiting the water, dive gear should be removed ‹†‹ơ‡”‡–•™‹‹‰’‘•‹–‹‘•Ǥ‹˜‡”•™‹–Š„ƒ  and passed up to a dive buddy or guide rather than injuries should seek medical advice prior to undertaking exiting the water with full kit on the diver’s back. new sports, or work with a sports coach, and consider ‘””‡ –„‘†›’‘•‹–‹‘‹‰ƒ†Ƥ‹‰ƒ”‡ seeing a physiotherapist for a personalised yoga important to prevent back pain. Scissor kicks from and pilates routine. A set of stretches and core- the hips may be great for momentum but they can strengthening exercises can easily be done at home or •–”ƒ‹–Š‡„ƒ Ǥ‰‘‘†ƒŽ–‡”ƒ–‹˜‡Ƥ‹‰–‡ Š‹“—‡ whilst travelling. is the frog kick, which can be easily learnt and puts ‹ƒŽŽ›ǡ„ƒ •–‹ơ‡••ƒ†’ƒ‹ ƒ„‡†—‡ less strain on the spine. It also happens to be a to poorly hydrated or injured spinal discs. Be sure ‰”‡ƒ–Ƥ‹‰–‡ Š‹“—‡ˆ‘”‹‹‹•‹‰•ƒ†ƒ†•‹Ž– to keep hydrated every day to allow spinal discs to disturbance at dive sites. Divers should consider a rehydrate and support the back for years to come. SDAA •‡••‹‘™‹–Šƒ‹•–”— –‘”–‘Ž‡ƒ”†‹ơ‡”‡–Ƥ‹‰ techniques whilst checking for unnatural back arching or strain. ǧ  Once a diver is out of the water, post-dive warmth is key to keeping sensitive backs relaxed and warm. Kathryn Curzon is a writer, public speaker, dive Changing into warm clothing, including a woolly hat, guide, and co-founder of the marine will reduce the likelihood of shivering after a dive. conservation cause Friends for Wearing a warm hat between dives is a great way Sharks. In 2015, she completed 87 talks in eight countries during her World Tour to reduce heat loss even when still wearing a for Sharks. She is the author of an award-winning wetsuit, though changing into dry clothes is inspirational memoir, No Damage (on Amazon).

55 | SDAA  

DIVING IN PARADISE ƒŽƒ›•‹ƒ„‘ƒ•–••‘‡‘ˆ–Š‡’Žƒ‡–ǯ•Ƥ‡•–†‹˜‡•‹–‡•ǡ and its pristine waters are rich in marine life By Tourism Malaysia

WHEN THE ISLANDS OF JOHOR March to October WHERE The southern state of Johor is blessed with beautiful Johor’s east coast islands located far from the mainland. Pulau Aur HOW „‘ƒ•–•’”‹•–‹‡†‡‡’™ƒ–‡”•–‡‡‹‰™‹–Š’‡Žƒ‰‹ Ƥ•Šǡ From Mersing town, ™Š‹Ž‡—Žƒ—ƒ‰‘ơ‡”••‹‰Š–‹‰•‘ˆ‰”‡‡–—”–Ž‡•ǡ take a speedboat for about two hours „—’Š‡ƒ†’ƒ””‘–Ƥ•Šƒ†„Ž—‡Ǧ•’‘––‡†•–‹‰”ƒ›•ǡ ƒ ‘‘‹Šƒ„‹–ƒ–‘ˆ–Š‡ƒŽƒ›•‹ƒ ‘ƒ•–Ǥ Š‡ ‘”ƒŽ•‹–Š‹•ƒ”‡ƒ•Š‡Ž–‡”ƒ ‘Ž‘—”ˆ—Ž˜ƒ”‹‡–›‘ˆ ”‡‡ˆƤ•Šǡ ‡’ŠƒŽ‘’‘†•ƒ† ”—•–ƒ ‡ƒ•ǡƒ•™‡ŽŽƒ• the beautiful but elusive Spanish dancer nudibranch. Adventurous visitors will want to seek out the ‡”‘™”‡ Ž‘ ƒ–‡†•‘—–Š‘ˆ—”ǤŠ‹ Ž›‡ ”—•–‡† ™‹–Š ‘”ƒŽ•ǡ–Š‹••—‡ ƒ’ƒ‡•‡Ƥ‰Š–‡”’Žƒ‡‹• RIGHT home to teeming marine life like the comical A diver has a close †‘‰ˆƒ ‡’—ơ‡”Ƥ•Šǡ™Š‹ Š’”‡ˆ‡”•–‘•™‹•‘Ž‘ƒ† encounter with a sea turtle in the ƒ––”ƒ –•’Ž‡–›‘ˆƒ––‡–‹‘ˆ‘”‹–•‡Ž‘‰ƒ–‡†ˆƒ ‡ waters of Pulau Aur ƒ†„‘šǦŽ‹‡„‘†›Ǥ

TURTLE ISLANDS PARK WHEN ›‹‰‹–Š‡—Ž—‡ƒ‘ơ–Š‡‘”–Š‡” ‘ƒ•–‘ˆ August to September WHERN ‘”‡‘ǡ—”–Ž‡ •Žƒ†•ƒ”‹•ƒ Ž—•–‡”‘ˆ–Š”‡‡ Northern Borneo ‹•Žƒ†•Ȃ‡Ž‹‰ƒǡƒ—‰ƒ‡ ‹Žǡƒ† HOW Gulisan – that are home to green and hawksbill Take a flight from Kota –—”–Ž‡•ǤŽ›–Š‡Žƒ”‰‡•–‹•Žƒ†ǡ‡Ž‹‰ƒǡ‹•‘’‡ Kinabalu to Sandakan, and then hop on the –‘˜‹•‹–‘”•ǡ™Š‘Šƒ˜‡–Š‡‘’’‘”–—‹–›–‘ ƒ– Š only ferry from Sabah sight of these rare and endangered turtles when Park Jetty –Š‡› ‘‡ƒ•Š‘”‡–‘Žƒ›‡‰‰•Ǥ

TERENGGANU WHEN ƒ‹Ž‡†ƒ•–Š‡Dz ‡‘ˆ–Š‡ƒ•–‘ƒ•–dzǡ‡”‡‰‰ƒ— Year round but avoid boasts a long coastline of aquamarine waters the monsoon season from October to ˆ”‹‰‡†„›™Š‹–‡’‘™†‡”›•ƒ†Ǥơ—Žƒ—‡”Š‡–‹ƒ February Besar are clear blue waters ideal for diving and WHERE •‘”‡ŽŽ‹‰ǡ™Š‹Ž‡•‡ Ž—†‡†—Žƒ—ƒ‰‡‰ƒŠ‘ơ‡”• East coast of Peninsular Malaysia a peaceful experience and 15 stunning dive sites HOW ™‹–Š‹ƒ͕͔Ǧ‹—–‡„‘ƒ–”‹†‡ˆ”‘‡ƒ Š‘–Š‡”Ǥ Fly to Sultan Mahmud Š‡ˆƒ”–Š‡•–‹•Žƒ†ˆ”‘–Š‡ƒ‹Žƒ†ǡ Airport, which serves the city of Kuala —Žƒ—‡‰‰‘Ž‹•™Š‡”‡›‘—ǯŽŽƤ†ƒ–—”‡ ‘”ƒŽ Terengganu. All the ‰ƒ”†‡•–Šƒ•–‘–Š‡—–”‹‡–Ǧ”‹ Š™ƒ–‡”•‘ˆ–Š‡ islands require boat ™‡ŽŽǦ•Š‡Ž–‡”‡†„ƒ›ǡ™Š‹Ž‡—Žƒ—ƒ’ƒ•‹•Š‘‡–‘ rides from the mainland: Pulau Perhentian Besar ƒ˜ƒ”‹‡–›‘ˆ„‘–ŠŠƒ”†ƒ†•‘ˆ– ‘”ƒŽ•”‹ Š‹ from Kuala Besut Jetty, marine life. The island is also known for squid Pulau Lang Tengah Ƥ•Š‹‰ƒ– ‡”–ƒ‹–‹‡•‘ˆ–Š‡›‡ƒ”Ǥ and Pulau Kapas from Merang Jetty, and Pulau Tenggol from PULAU Kuala Dungun Jetty ›‹‰Œ—•–‘ơ–Š‡‘”–Š‡ƒ•– ‘ƒ•–‘ˆ‘”‡‘‹• ‹’ƒ†ƒǡƒŽƒ›•‹ƒǯ•‘Ž›‘ ‡ƒ‹ ‹•Žƒ†Ǥ Š‹•ƒ‰‹ ƒŽ‹•Ž‡™ƒ•ƒ†‡ˆƒ‘—•„›”‡‘™‡† ”‡ Š‘ ‡ƒ‘‰”ƒ’Š‡”ǡ ƒ “—‡•Ǧ˜‡•‘—•–‡ƒ—ǡ ‹Š‹•†‘ —‡–ƒ”›Borneo: The Ghost of the Sea RIGHT TurtleǤ—–Š‡ƒŽ–Š›—„‡”•‘ˆ‰”‡‡–—”–Ž‡•ƒ”‡ Pulau Tenggol in „›‘‡ƒ•–Š‡‘Ž› ”‡ƒ–—”‡•›‘—ǯŽŽƤ†Š‡”‡ǣ ”‡‰‰ƒ—‘ơ‡”• excellent snorkelling ‹’ƒ†ƒ‘ơ‡”•’”‘Ž‹Ƥ ƒ”‹‡Ž‹ˆ‡‘ˆƒŽŽ•Šƒ’‡• amid coral gardens and sizes.

56 | SDAA Š‘•‡™‹–Š–Š‡ƒ˜‡”‹˜‡” ‡”–‹Ƥ ƒ–‹‘ ƒ WHEN ‡š’Ž‘”‡–Š‡•ƒ‡›•–‡”‹‡•–Šƒ–‘—•–‡ƒ—ƒ† All year round, but DIVING IN MALAYSIA visibility is best from TRAVEL TIPS Š‹• ”‡™†‹†ƒŽ‘•–͔͗›‡ƒ”•ƒ‰‘ƒ–—”–Ž‡ƒ˜‡”Ǥ April to August •‹†‡Ž‹‡•ƒƒ ƒ„”‡ Šƒ„‡”‘ˆ•‡Ž‡–‘• WHERE ‘—”‹•ƒŽƒ›•‹ƒǯ•‡™‡•– ƒ’ƒ‹‰ǡ‹•‹–ƒŽƒ›•‹ƒ belonging to turtles and dolphins that got lost Off the east coast of Sabah ͖͔͖͔ǡ‹•ƒŽ‹‰‡†™‹–Š–Š‡‘”Ž†‘—”‹•”‰ƒ‹œƒ–‹‘ǯ• ‹–Š‡Žƒ„›”‹–Š‘ˆ–—‡Ž•ǡ„‡ ƒ‡†‹•‘”‹‡–ƒ–‡† HOW ‡••ƒ‰‡ǡDz”ƒ˜‡ŽǤŒ‘›Ǥ‡•’‡ –dzǡ™Š‹ Š‡ ‘—”ƒ‰‡• and drowned. From Kuala Lumpur, –‘—”‹•–•–‘•Š‘™ ‘•‹†‡”ƒ–‹‘ˆ‘”–Š‡†‡•–‹ƒ–‹‘•–Š‡› ˜‹•‹–Ǥ Ž‹‰Š–‘ˆ–Š‹•ǡ‘„•‡”˜‡–Š‡ˆ‘ŽŽ‘™‹‰‰—‹†‡Ž‹‡•ǣ Ž•‡™Š‡”‡ǡ”ƒ”‡ƒ†’‡ —Ž‹ƒ”Ƥ•Š•’‡ ‹‡• ƒŽŽ take a flight to Tawau Airport, and MARINE LIFE ‹’ƒ†ƒǯ• ‘”ƒŽ•Š‘‡ǡ‹ Ž—†‹‰’‘” —’‹‡’—ơ‡”Ƥ•Šǡ then arrange a boat Ž‘™–”‹‰‰‡”Ƥ•Šǡ—‹ ‘”Ƥ•Šƒ†‘‘”‹•Š‹†‘Ž•Ǥ ride from nearby ƒ›ƒ”‹‡ƒ‹ƒŽ•Ž‹‡–—”–Ž‡•ǡ‡‡Ž•ƒ†”ƒ›• –›’‹ ƒŽŽ›ƒ˜‘‹† ‘–ƒ –™‹–Š†‹˜‡”•Ǥˆ–‡ǡƒ––ƒ • ‹ƒ–‘”ƒ›‡‡Ž•Ž—”‹–Š‡‹”‰”‘––‘•ǡ‘„•‡”˜‹‰–Š‡ Pulau Mabul ƒ”‹•‡‘—–‘ˆˆ‡ƒ”ǡ•‘”‡ˆ”ƒ‹ˆ”‘–‘— Š‹‰ƒ›ƒ‹ƒŽ• –”ƒƥ ‰‘‹‰’ƒ•–ǡ™Š‹Ž‡Š—‰‡‰‘”‰‘‹ƒ•‡ƒˆƒ• ‡˜‡–Š‘—‰Š–Š‡›ƒ›„‡™‹–Š‹”‡ƒ ŠǤ•”‡‡ˆ protrude like the plume of a proud peacock. Hundreds ”‡ƒ–—”‡•ƒ”‡‡ƒ•‹Ž›•–”‡••‡†ǡƒ––‡’–•–‘–‘— Š animals can also disrupt feeding or mating patterns ‘ˆˆ‡ƒ”•‘‡ǦŽ‘‘‹‰„ƒ””ƒ —†ƒ••‘‡–‹‡•ˆ‘” ƒ††”‹˜‡–Š‡ƒ™ƒ›ˆ”‘ ‡”–ƒ‹•‹–‡•Ǥ ƒ‰”‡›™ƒŽŽˆ”‘–Š‡•Š‡‡”™‡‹‰Š–‘ˆ–Š‡‹”—„‡”•Ǥ CONSERVATION —’Š‡ƒ†’ƒ””‘–Ƥ•Š‘ˆ–‡”—„Ž‡’ƒ•–‹ ‘”‡ŽŽ‹‰‘”†‹˜‹‰—•–„‡†‘‡˜‡”› „‹•‘ǦŽ‹‡Š‘”†‡•Ǥ‹‰Š–†‹˜‡ƒ››‹‡Ž†ƒ Šƒ ‡ ƒ”‡ˆ—ŽŽ›ƒ•”‡‡ˆ•ƒ”‡ˆ”ƒ‰‹Ž‡ƒ†‡ƒ•‹Ž› ‡ ‘—–‡”™‹–Š–Š‡•‡‰‹ƒ–Ƥ•Šǣ—’Š‡ƒ†•™‡ƒ˜‡ damaged. Avoid brushing or scraping corals so as ƒ–”ƒ•’ƒ”‡– ‘ ‘‘„‡ˆ‘”‡–Š‡›•Ž‡‡’–‘‡‡’–Š‡‹” not to disturb the thin membranes that protect them ƒ†‡•—”‡–Š‡‹”•—”˜‹˜ƒŽǤ ˆ Šƒ”–‡”‹‰ƒ„‘ƒ–ǡƒ‡ • ‡–ˆ”‘’”‡†ƒ–‘”•ǡƒ†–Š‹•‘ –—”ƒŽ•‹‰Š–‹•ƒ• sure that the operator does not anchor within marine ‹’”‡••‹˜‡ƒ•–Šƒ–‹–Š‡†ƒ›–‹‡Ǥ ’ƒ”’‡”‹‡–‡”•ǡƒ•ƒ Š‘”• ƒ—•‡•‡”‹‘—•†ƒƒ‰‡ ƒ–Ƥ•Šǡ‘‘”‹•Š‹†‘Ž•ǡŠƒ™Ƥ•Šǡ‰”‘—’‡”•ƒ† –‘”‡‡ˆ•Ǥ‡ˆ”ƒ‹ˆ”‘Ž‹––‡”‹‰ƒ††‘‘––ƒ‡Š‘‡ †‡ƒ† ‘”ƒŽ•ǡƒ•–Š‡›•–‹ŽŽ’Žƒ›ƒ‹’‘”–ƒ–”‘Ž‡ ‘”ƒŽ–”‘—–ƒ”‡‘–Š‡” ‘‘‹Šƒ„‹–ƒ–•ǡƒ•ƒ”‡–Š‡ ‹–Š‡‡ ‘•›•–‡Ǥ ”‡•‹†‡–™Š‹–‡–‹’”‡‡ˆ•Šƒ”•ƒ†‰”‡›”‡‡ˆ•Šƒ”•Ǥ CLOTHING ‡ƒƥ•Šƒ†–Š‡‘††ǦŽ‘‘‹‰ ”‘ ‘†‹Ž‡Ƥ•Š‹‰Š–ƒŽ•‘ ‰‡‡”ƒŽǡ ƒ•—ƒŽǡŽ‹‰Š– ‘––‘ Ž‘–Š‹‰Ž‹‡ be spotted. Corals crowd the reef in a riot of colour: Ǧ•Š‹”–•ƒ†•Š‘”–•ƒ”‡”‡ ‘‡†‡†Ǥ Large black corals and barrel sponges vie for attention ABOVE —†‹–›‹•’”‘Š‹„‹–‡†Ǥ‘ˆ‘”ƒŽ™‡ƒ”‹•‡š’‡ –‡†‹ ™‹–Š‰‹‰ƒ–‹ •‘ˆ––”‡‡ ‘”ƒŽ•ǡƒ•™‡ŽŽƒ•ƒ‡‘‡• Diving among ”‡•–ƒ—”ƒ–•Ǥ‡’”‘’‡”Ž›ƒ––‹”‡†™Š‡˜‹•‹–‹‰˜‹ŽŽƒ‰‡•ǡ • Š‘‘Ž•‘ˆƤ•Šƒ– towns and religious sites. ƒ†–Š‡‹”’Žƒ›ˆ—Ž Ž‘™Ƥ•ŠǤSDAA Pulau Sipadan

Selingan MALAYSIA’S Bakungan Kecil DIVE SITES Pulau Perhentian Besar S Numerous islands dotting the Pulau Lang Tengah ƒŽƒ›•‹ƒ ‘ƒ•–ƒ”‡•—‹–ƒ„Ž‡ˆ‘” adan snorkelling and diving TERENGGANU MALAY

RAWAK Pulau Tenggol

KUALA LUMPUR

Pulau Lang Pulau Aur JOHOR

57 | SDAA FEATURE: CREATING AN MPA WHAT IS AN MPA?

According to the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), ƒ’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ‹•ƒƒ”‹‡Žƒ†• ƒ’‡™‹–ŠŽ‡‰ƒŽŽ›†‡Ƥ‡†„‘—†ƒ”‹‡•™Š‡”‡ human activity is restricted by explicitly outlined policies. These policies have to be implemented and enforced by local, regional, or international authorities to conserve ecosystems for their natural or cultural value. The level of restriction can vary depending on how ecologically sensitive ƒ†‹’‘”–ƒ––Š‡ƒ”‡ƒ‹•ǡƒ†–Š‡„‡‡Ƥ–•–‘ ‘•‡”˜ƒ–‹‘–Šƒ– ‘‡ˆ”‘ relaxing restrictions for purposes such as education. Restrictions range from catch limits on certain species or the type of activities allowed, to complete bans on any human activity that does not aid conservation ‡ơ‘”–•‘”•‡”˜‡ƒ —Ž–—”ƒŽŽ›•‹‰‹Ƥ ƒ–’—”’‘•‡Ǥ

AN EFFECTIVE MPA IS

Enforced Close to other MPAs

Sustainably Financed Integrated into a wider management plan

Locally Managed Ž‡ƒ”Ž›†‡Ƥ‡†™‹–Š •’‡ ‹Ƥ ‡†Ǧ‰‘ƒŽ•

58 | SDAA TYPES OF MPAS

IUCN CATEGORY IA Strict Nature Reserve: A marine reserve where the ecosystem is particularly fragile and important. Human activity here is strictly controlled, consisting ‘ˆ‡˜‹”‘‡–ƒŽ‘‹–‘”‹‰ǡ• ‹‡–‹Ƥ •—”˜‡›•ǡƒ†‹†‹‰‡‘—•’”ƒ –‹ ‡••— Šƒ• ƒ„‘”‹‰‹ƒŽ•—„•‹•–‡ ‡Ƥ•Š‹‰Ǥ †‹‰‡‘—•’”ƒ –‹ ‡•Šƒ˜‡–‘‡‡– ‘•‡”˜ƒ–‹‘ objectives and may be subject to catch limits and other restrictions. E.g. Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary, California

IUCN CATEGORY IB Wilderness Area: A large natural area that is mostly untouched by human activity and free of any modern infrastructure. Its management aims to preserve its natural condition for future generations. E.g. Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, Alaska

IUCN CATEGORY II National Park: A large natural area set aside to protect its natural biodiversity and ecosystems, but with more lenient policies on human visitation and infrastructure to support education and recreation. E.g. Hallyeohaesang National Park, South Korea

IUCN CATEGORY III Natural Monument or Feature: A small protected area around a natural monument such ƒ• ƒ •—„ƒ”‹‡ ƒ˜‡”‘”ƒ•‡ƒ‘—–ǡ‘”ƒƒǦƒ†‡ monument. The latter must have ecological, historical ‘” —Ž–—”ƒŽ•‹‰‹Ƥ ƒ ‡–‘“—ƒŽ‹ˆ›Ǥ‘Ž‹ ‹‡• ‡–”‡ƒ”‘—† protecting the biodiversity and ecosystems that have formed around these monuments. E.g. Natural Monument, Belize

IUCN CATEGORY IV Habitat/Species Management Area: A protected area set aside to conserve a •’‡ ‹Ƥ •’‡ ‹‡•‘”Šƒ„‹–ƒ–Ǥ‘Ž‹ ‹‡•ƒ‹–‘ ‘•‡”˜‡ or restore these species or habitats. Since these ƒ”‡ƒ•ƒ”‡•‘•’‡ ‹Ƥ ǡ–Š‡›ƒ”‡ ‘‘Ž›•‡–—’ ™‹–Š‹ƒŽƒ”‰‡”–‘•—’’‘”– ‘•‡”˜ƒ–‹‘‡ơ‘”–•Ǥ E.g. South Ari Atoll, Maldives

IUCN CATEGORY V Protected Seascape:‡‘ˆ–Š‡‘”‡ƪ‡š‹„Ž‡ Žƒ••‹Ƥ ƒ–‹‘•ǡ–Š‡•‡ƒ”‡ƒ•ƒŽŽ‘™ƒ„ƒŽƒ ‡†ƒ‘—–‘ˆˆ‘”Ǧ’”‘Ƥ–Š—ƒ ƒ –‹˜‹–›ǤŠ‡›ƒ”‡‡•–ƒ„Ž‹•Š‡†™Š‡”‡Š—ƒƒ –‹˜‹–›Šƒ•‰”‡ƒ–Ž›‹ƪ—‡ ‡†–Š‡ surrounding ecosystem and has formed its own culture, such as hotspots and dive sites. However, such activity is allowed on condition that the surrounding biospheres continue to be ecologically protected and restored. E.g. , Philippines

IUCN CATEGORY VI Protected Area with Sustainable Use of Natural Resources: These areas allow an extensive amount of Š—ƒ‹˜‘Ž˜‡‡–ǡ—•—ƒŽŽ›Ž‘™ǦŽ‡˜‡Žǡ‘Ǧ‹†—•–”‹ƒŽ—•‡‘ˆƒ–—”ƒŽ ”‡•‘—” ‡•Ǥ‹–Š‘Ǧ‹†—•–”‹ƒŽŠƒ”˜‡•–‹‰ǡƒ—–Š‘”‹–‹‡•‡•—”‡–Šƒ– conservation as a main aim is still viable within this area. E.g. Menai Bay Conservation Area, Zanzibar, Tanzania

NO-TAKE ZONE An area set aside by the government where no extractive activity is allowed. Extractive activity is any action that removes, or extracts, any ”‡•‘—” ‡Ǥš–”ƒ –‹˜‡ƒ –‹˜‹–‹‡•‹ Ž—†‡Ƥ•Š‹‰ǡŠ—–‹‰ǡ logging, mining, and drilling. Shell collecting and archaeological digging are also extractive. E.g. Great Barrier Reef, Australia (about one-third is a no-take zone)

WORLD HERITAGE SITE Initiated by UNESCO, this area exhibits extensive natural or cultural history. Maritime areas are poorly represented, however, with only 46 out of over 800 sites. E.g. Galápagos Islands, Ecuador

59 | SDAA FEATURE:    APO ISLAND: CREATING A MARINE APO ISLAND PROTECTED AREA PHILIPPINES In the unassuming province of Negros Oriental, a bustling community has come together to protect the ocean surrounding Apo Island By Roni Ben-Aharon Dave Haas

Consuming less plastic, supporting sustainable –‘͙͛’‡” ‡–‘ˆ–Š‡™‘”Ž†ǯ• ‘”ƒŽ•’‡ ‹‡•ƒ†͔͘ Ƥ•Š‹‰ǡ”‡ › Ž‹‰ǡ„—›‹‰–—ƒˆ”‘ƒ†‘Ž’Š‹•ƒˆ‡ ’‡” ‡–‘ˆ–Š‡™‘”Ž†ǯ•Ƥ•Š•’‡ ‹‡•Ǥ˜‡”͕͔͔‹ŽŽ‹‘ Ƥ•Š‡”›Ȃ™‡‘ ‡ƒŽ‘˜‡”•†‘™Šƒ–™‡ ƒ–‘ people in the Philippines rely on the sea for their ’”‘–‡ ––Š‡„‹‰„Ž—‡Ǥ—–™Š‡•ƒˆ‡‰—ƒ”†‹‰ livelihood, particularly those in the small shoreline •‘‡–Š‹‰•‘˜ƒ•–ǡ™‹–Š•‘ƒ›˜ƒ”‹ƒ„Ž‡•ǡ‘‡ǯ• Ƥ•Š‹‰ ‘—‹–‹‡•Ǥ ‡ơ‘”–•ƒ›ˆ‡‡ŽŽ‹‡ƒ†”‘’‹–Š‡‘ ‡ƒǤ˜‡•‘ǡ ‘ ƒ–‡†‘ơ–Š‡ ‘ƒ•–‘ˆ‡‰”‘•”‹‡–ƒŽǡ •ƒŽŽ‡ơ‘”–• ƒƒ‡ƒŠ—‰‡†‹ơ‡”‡ ‡ǡƒ†•— Š Apo Island is the oldest continuous marine protected ‹•–Š‡•–‘”›‘ˆ’‘ •Žƒ†ǡ‘‡‘ˆ–Š‡Ƥ”•–ƒ”‹‡ ƒ”‡ƒ‹–Š‡Š‹Ž‹’’‹‡•ƒ†Š‘‡–‘͚͙͔†‘ —‡–‡† protected areas in the Philippines. •’‡ ‹‡•‘ˆƤ•Šƒ†‘˜‡”͔͔͘†‘ —‡–‡†•’‡ ‹‡•‘ˆ ABOVE The aquatic nation of the Philippines, a global ‘”ƒŽ•Ǥ –‹•Š‡”‡™Š‡”‡• ‹‡ ‡ƒ†–Š‡ ‘—‹–› Apo Island hotspot for marine diversity, is situated in the Šƒ˜‡ƒ†‡ƒŒ‘‹–‡ơ‘”––‘Ƥ†–Š‡†‡Ž‹ ƒ–‡„ƒŽƒ ‡ is as beautiful ‘”–Š™‡•–‡” ‘”‡”‘ˆ–Š‡‘”ƒŽ”‹ƒ‰Ž‡Ȃ–Š‡ ‘ˆ’”‘–‡ –‹‰–Š‡”‡‡ˆƤ•Š™Š‹Ž‡”‡Ž›‹‰‘–Š‡ƒ•ƒ topside as it is „‡Ž‘™–Š‡•—”ˆƒ ‡ ™‘”Ž†ǯ•‘•–„‹‘†‹˜‡”•‡ƒ”‹‡ƒ”‡ƒƒ†Š‘‡ sustainable food source.

Supported by THE ROAD TO PROTECTION

’‘ •Žƒ†ǯ•’‘’—Žƒ–‹‘”‡ƒ Š‡•‡ƒ”ƒ–Š‘—•ƒ†ǡ „—–‹ˆ”ƒ•–”— –—”‡ǡƒ ‡••–‘ˆ”‡•Š™ƒ–‡”ƒ† 1974 ‡Ž‡ –”‹ ‹–›ƒ”‡Žƒ ‹‰ǡ•‘ƒŠ‡ƒ˜›”‡Ž‹ƒ ‡‘–Š‡ ‘ ‡ƒŠƒ•„‡‡‹•–‹ŽŽ‡†Ǥ”ƒ†‹–‹‘ƒŽŽ›ǡ–Š‡Ƥ•Š‡”‡ Š‡ƒ”‹‡ ‹‡ ‡‡’ƒ”–‡–‘ˆ‹ŽŽ‹ƒ‹˜‡”•‹–›‹‹–‹ƒ–‡† —•‡†–Š‡—•—•–ƒ‹ƒ„Ž‡’”ƒ –‹ ‡•‘ˆ†›ƒ‹–‡Ƥ•Š‹‰ ƒƒ”‹‡”‡•‡ƒ” Š’”‘Œ‡ –‹—‹Ž‘ •Žƒ†ǤŠ‹•’”‘Œ‡ –™ƒ•Ž‡†„› and muroamiȂƒ†‡•–”— –‹˜‡‡–Š‘†‘ˆƤ•Š‹‰–Šƒ– ”Ǥ‰‡ŽŽ ƒŽƒǡƒ’‹‘‡‡”• ‹‡–‹•–™Š‘‰”‡™—’‹ƒƤ•Š‹‰ ‘—‹–› ‹‡‰”‘•ǤŠ‡’”‘Œ‡ –•–—†‹‡†–Š‡‡ơ‡ –•ƒ’‹Ž‘–ƒ”‹‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ ‹˜‘Ž˜‡••ƒ•Š‹‰Žƒ”‰‡”‘ •‘” ‡‡–„Ž‘ •‘–‘ ™‘—Ž†Šƒ˜‡‘–Š‡•—””‘—†‹‰Ƥ•Š‹‰ ‘—‹–‹‡•Ǥ –Š‡”‡‡ˆ–‘• ƒ”‡Ƥ•Š‹–‘Š—‰‡‡–•Ǥ –Š‡’ƒ•–ǡ‘ Š‡‹†‡ƒȂ–‘•‡ŽŽ–Š‡ ‘ ‡’–‘ˆƒ”‹‡ ‘•‡”˜ƒ–‹‘–‘–Š‡ ‘‡•ƒ™–Š‹•ƒ•ƒ’”‘„Ž‡ǡƒ•–Š‡›ƒ••—‡†–Šƒ––Š‡ Ž‘ ƒŽƤ•Š‹‰ ‘—‹–‹‡•ƒ•ƒ‡–Š‘†‘ˆ‹’”‘˜‹‰›‹‡Ž†•Ȃ™ƒ• ƒ„—†ƒ ‡™‘—Ž†’”‡˜ƒ‹ŽǤ—–‰”ƒ†—ƒŽŽ›ǡ–Š‡‹” ƒ– Š ”‡˜‘Ž—–‹‘ƒ”›Ǥ”ǤŽ ƒŽƒǯ•–Š‡‘”›™ƒ•–Šƒ–ƒƒ”‹‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ started depleting, and concerns developed. ™‘—Ž†„‡‡Ƥ––Š‡Ƥ•Š‡”‹‡•ƒ”‘—†‹––Š”‘—‰Š–™‘ˆƒ –‘”•ǣ 1. Š‡”‡™‘—Ž†„‡ƒ•’‹ŽŽ‘˜‡”‘ˆƒ†—Ž–Ƥ•Šˆ”‘–Š‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ‹–‘ –Š‡•—””‘—†‹‰ƒ”‡ƒǡ™Š‡”‡–Š‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒˆ— –‹‘•ƒ•ƒ •Š‡Ž–‡”ˆ‘”Ƥ•Š–‘‡• ƒ’‡ǡƒ–—”‡ƒ†•’ƒ™ 2. ‹•Š•’ƒ™‹‰‹–Š‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ™‘—Ž†’”‘†— ‡Žƒ”˜ƒ‡–Šƒ–‹• carried by the currents to other communities on the reef 1980 ••— Šǡ—‹Ž‘ •Žƒ†„‡ ƒ‡–Š‡Š‹Ž‹’’‹‡•ǯƤ”•–•ƒŽŽƒ”‹‡ ’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒǡ™Š‡”‡Ƥ•Š‹‰ƒ†‘–Š‡”Š—ƒƒ –‹˜‹–›™ƒ•„ƒ‡†Ǥ ‡‡‹‰ ’‘Ž‹–‹ ƒŽ ˆ‘” ‡• Ž‘—†‹‰ ‘•‡”˜ƒ–‹‘ ‡ơ‘”–•ǡ ”Ǥ Ž ƒŽƒ understood the importance of involving the community in marine ’”‘–‡ –‹‘ ‡ơ‘”–•Ǥ ‘ ™Š‡ Š‡ ™‡– –‘ ’‘ •Žƒ† ‹ –Š‡ ‡ƒ”Ž› ͕͔͜͝•ǡ Š‡ ƒ””‹‡† –Š‡ ‰‘•’‡Ž ‘ˆ ƒ”‹‡ ‘•‡”˜ƒ–‹‘ ƒ• ƒ ‡ƒ• –‘ ƒ Š‹‡˜‡ ‰”‡ƒ–‡” Ƥ•Š ›‹‡Ž†• ˆ‘” –Š‡ Ž‘ ƒŽ ‘—‹–›Ǥ Š‘•‡ ™Š‘ heard him may have only been teenagers at the time, but today 1982 –Š‡› Šƒ˜‡ „‡ ‘‡ ‹ƪ—‡–‹ƒŽ ’‘Ž‹–‹ ƒŽ ˆ‘” ‡•Ǥ ‡•’‹–‡–Š‡•‡’–‹ ‹•ǡ–Š‡’‘ •Žƒ† ‘—‹–›†‡ Žƒ”‡†ƒ„‘—–͕͔ percent of the reef area of the southeast side of the island as a marine protected area. 1984 10% ”ǤŽ ƒŽƒƒ† ƒ””›—••‘ˆ ƒ‡•‘‘ ‹˜‡”•‹–› ‹ —•–”ƒŽ‹ƒ of Apo Island’s southeast reef •— ‡••ˆ—ŽŽ›’”‘˜‡†–Šƒ––Š‡•’‹ŽŽ‘˜‡”‘ˆ ƒ†—Ž– Ƥ•Š ˆ”‘ –Š‡ became protected ƒ”‹‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒŠƒ†ƒ’‘•‹–‹˜‡‡ơ‡ – ‘ –Š‡ •—””‘—†‹‰ Ƥ•Š‹‰ ‘—‹–‹‡•Ǥ Being able to prove this relationship not only validated the need for marine protected areas from a conservation perspective, 1986 but also attached a solid economic value to it. ˆ‘”–—ƒ–‡Ž›ǡ–Š‡ ’‘Ž‹–‹ ƒŽ •—’’‘”–‹ •—•–ƒ‹‹‰ –Š‡ ƒ–‹‘ǯ• ’‘ •Žƒ†ǯ• ƒ”‹‡ ƒƒ‰‡‡– ‘— ‹Ž ™ƒ• ‡•–ƒ„Ž‹•Š‡†ǡ ƒ† Ƥ”•–ƒ”‹‡’”‘–‡ –‡ ‹ ‘•‹•–‡–ǡ ƒ† Ž‘ ƒŽ ‡Ž‡ –‹‘• †‡ Žƒ”‡† –Š‡ ‡† ‘ˆ —•—•–ƒ‹ƒ„Ž‡ Ƥ•Š‹‰ ’”ƒ –‹ ‡•ǡ ƒŽŽ‘™‹‰ ‘Ž› Ž‹‡ ƒ”‡†–Š‡‡†‘ˆ –‡ –‡† ƒ”‡ƒǤ ƒ† •’‡ƒ”Ƥ•Š‹‰ǡ –”ƒ’• ƒ† ‰‹ŽŽ ‡–•Ǥ – ƒŽ•‘ ƒ’’‘‹–‡† –Š‡ ƒ–ƒ› ƒ‰ƒ– Ȃ ‰ƒ–‡‡‡’‡”• –‘ ‡ˆ‘” ‡ –Š‡‹” ‘Ǧ–ƒ‡ ’‘Ž‹ ›Ǥ Š‡•‡ ’”ƒ –‹ ‡• ƒ”‡ •–‹ŽŽ ‹ ‡ơ‡ – –‘ –Š‹• †ƒ›Ǥ

Evidence found proving the •’‹ŽŽ‘˜‡”‡ơ‡ – The end of unsustainable fishing practices

1992 ”Ǥ Ž ƒŽƒ ™ƒ• ƒ’’‘‹–‡†–Š‡‡ ”‡–ƒ”›‘ˆ–Š‡ ‡’ƒ”–‡–‘ˆ˜‹”‘‡–ƒ† Natural Resources

1994 Apo Island became part of the National Integrated Protected Area  –ȋ Ȍƒ†—†‡”–Š‡Œ—”‹•†‹ –‹‘‘ˆ–Š‡”‘–‡ –‡†”‡ƒƒƒ‰‡‡– ‘ƒ”†ȋȌǡƒƒ–‹‘ƒŽ’Žƒ–‘ ‘•‡”˜‡ƒ“—ƒ–‹ ƒ†–‡””‡•–”‹ƒŽ–”‡ƒ•—”‡•Ǥ

Supported by FEATURE:   

Apo Island continued to maintain its marine „› ͔͔͘ ‡–”‡•ȌǤ ‘†ƒ›ǡ –Š‡”‡ ƒ”‡ ‘˜‡” ͕ǡ͙͔͔ ’”‘–‡ –‡† ƒ”‡ƒ• –Š”‘—‰Š‘—– –Š‡ ›‡ƒ”•ǡ ™‹–Š small marine protected areas in the Philippines, ƒ •–‡ƒ†›ǡ ‘‰‘‹‰ ’”‘–‡ –‹‘ •‹ ‡ ͕͖͜͝Ǥ Š‡”‡ ƒ –Š‹”† ‘ˆ ™Š‹ Š ƒ”‡ ‹ –Š‡ ‹•ƒ›ƒ•Ǥ ƒ”‡ ‘™ –Š”‡‡ †‡ ƒ†‡• ‘ˆ †ƒ–ƒ ’”‘˜‹‰ Š‘™ ƒ”‹‡ With more small marine protected areas around, ’”‘–‡ –‡† ƒ”‡ƒ• ƒơ‡ – Ƥ•Š‹‰ ›‹‡Ž†• ‹ ‡ƒ”„› • ‹‡ ‡ ‰”‡™ —”‹‘—•ǡ ‡•’‡ ‹ƒŽŽ› ”‡‰ƒ”†‹‰ –Š‡ •›‡”‰› Ƥ•Š‹‰ ‘—‹–‹‡•Ǥ ‡ơ‡ – „‡–™‡‡ ƒ”‹‡ ’”‘–‡ –‡† ƒ”‡ƒ•Ǥ —‹Ž†‹‰ —’‘ Š‡ ‡••ƒ‰‡ ‘ˆ ’‘ •Žƒ† ™ƒ•• ƒ””‹‡† „› ”Ǥ Ž ƒŽƒǯ• Ƥ†‹‰ǡ ”Ǥ ‡‡ „‡•ƒ‹• ‘ˆ ‹‹Žƒ –Š‡ —””‡–• –‘ –Š‡ ‡ƒ”„› ‡‰”‘• ‘ƒ•–ǡ ƒ• ™‡ŽŽ ƒ• ‹˜‡”•‹–› •‘—‰Š– –‘ ‘‡ – –Š‡ †‘–• ƒ† ‡•–ƒ„Ž‹•Š the neighboring islands across theVis Visayas,s –Š‡ ”‡Žƒ–‹‘•Š‹’ „‡–™‡‡ ‰‡‘‰”ƒ’Š‹ ƒŽŽ› Ž‘•‡ •ƒŽŽ ™Š‡”‡ ‘—‹–‹‡• Šƒ˜‡ •–ƒ”–‡† –Š‡ ‘™ •ƒŽŽ marine protected areas,, thisthis timetim not focusing on the ƒ”‹‡ ’”‘–‡ –‡† ƒ”‡ƒ• ȋ‘ Žƒ”‰‡” –Šƒ͗ ͔͔͗ ‡–”‡• •’‹ŽŽ‘˜‡” ‡ơ‡ –ǡ‡ơ‡ –„ „—– ‘ Žƒ”˜ƒ‡ ‡š Šƒ‰‡Ǥ

BACONG

LEGEND DAUIN      

Return to reef where larvae was spawned

Ȁ ZAMBOANGUITA

SIATON APOA ISLANDND

2. If the larvae settle in a marine protected area, they have 1. ”‘‘‡–‘͕͔™‡‡•ǡ a higher chance of surviving till larvae are carried adulthood and developing into over the ocean •’ƒ™‹‰ƒ†—Ž–• currents in search of a recruitment habitat

3. ‡™Žƒ”˜ƒ‡ ‘–‹—‡–‘ ƪ‘™–Š”‘—‰Š–Š‡‘ ‡ƒǡ‘ˆ–‡ being recruited in neighbouring marine protected areas

Supported by Dave Haas Dave Haas Bahura & Matalay

”Ǥ„‡•ƒ‹•ƒ†Š‹•–‡ƒ•’‡–ƒ›‡ƒ”ƒ†ƒ ABOVE WHERE TO STAY AND DIVE Šƒ•–‘”ǤŽ ƒŽƒǯ• ŠƒŽˆ ‘ŽŽ‡ –‹‰‘˜‡”͖ǡ͔͔͔•ƒ’Ž‡•‘ˆŒ—˜‡‹Ž‡ ˆ‘”™ƒ”†–Š‹‹‰ǡ’‘ ˜ƒ‰ƒ„‘†„—––‡”ƪ›Ƥ•Šƒ†͕ǡ͙͔͔ƒ†—Ž–•‹–Š‡ •Žƒ†ǯ•”‡‡ˆ•Šƒ˜‡ Apo Island area, trying to match potential parents –Žƒ–‹•‡•‘”–‹ƒ—‹‹•ƒ„‡ƒ Šˆ”‘–†‹˜‡ largely recovered ”‡•‘”–ǡ•‹–—ƒ–‡†‹ƒŽ—•Š–”‘’‹ ƒŽ‰ƒ”†‡™‹–Š after the cessation of ƒ†Œ—˜‡‹Ž‡•ǡ—†‡”–Š‡ƒ••—’–‹‘–Šƒ–™Š‡ —•—•–ƒ‹ƒ„Ž‡Ƥ•Š‹‰ ”‹ Šˆƒ—ƒƒ†ƪ‘”ƒǤ’‡ ‹ƒŽ‹•‹‰‹ƒŽŽǦ‹ Ž—•‹˜‡ practices ƒ– Š‹‰ƒ’ƒ”‡–ƒ†ƒ„ƒ„›ǡ‘‡ ƒ•‡‡Š‘™ˆƒ” †‹˜‡˜ƒ ƒ–‹‘•ǡ™‹–Š‡š ‡ŽŽ‡–‡ƒŽ•ƒ–‘‘ǯ• –Š‡Œ—˜‡‹Ž‡•–”ƒ˜‡ŽǤ ‹••–—†›ǡ’—„Ž‹•Š‡†‹͖͔͕͛ǡ ”‡•–ƒ—”ƒ–ǡ–Žƒ–‹•‘ơ‡”•—’–‘Ƥ˜‡„‘ƒ–†‹˜‡•ƒ •Š‘™‡†–Šƒ–Žƒ”˜ƒ‡†‹•’‡”•‹‘‹•˜ƒ•–Ȃ•’ƒ‹‰ †ƒ›ǡ•ƒŽŽ†‹˜‡‰”‘—’•ǡƒ†ƒ Ž‹ƒ–‡Ǧ ‘–”‘ŽŽ‡† TOP LEFT The children of ˆ”‘͙͜‹Ž‘‡–”‡•–‘͕͖͔‹Ž‘‡–”‡•Ǥ camera room. Apo Island is a short trip from Apo Island –™ƒ•ˆ‘—†–Šƒ–Œ—˜‡‹Ž‡•ˆ”‘’‘ •Žƒ† the resort. ™™™Ǥƒ–Žƒ–‹•Š‘–‡ŽǤ ‘ •’ƒ™‡†ƒ– ‘ƒ•–ƒŽ‡‰”‘•ǡ†‡–‡”‹‹‰–Šƒ– ABOVE LEFT Local villagers of ƒƒ”‹‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ ƒŠ‡Ž’”‡ ‘˜‡”Ƥ•Š Apo Island ’‘’—Žƒ–‹‘•‹‡‹‰Š„‘—”‹‰–‘™•ǡƒ†‡˜‡ ‡‹‰Š„‘—”‹‰‹•Žƒ†•Ǥ ˆƒƤ•ŠŽƒ”˜ƒ•‡––Ž‡•‘–Š‡ Roni Ben-Aharon is the reef in another protected area, it has a better chance reservations manager at Atlantis; ‘ˆ†‡˜‡Ž‘’‹‰‹–‘ƒ•’ƒ™‹‰ƒ†—Ž–ǤŠ‡•›‡”‰› a global nomad, diving professional, who has been working in marketing „‡–™‡‡ƒ”‹‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•‹• ”— ‹ƒŽ–‘–Š‡ and management in the tourism ”‡ ‘˜‡”›‘ˆ–Š‡Ƥ•Š’‘’—Žƒ–‹‘ǡ•‘Ž‡–ǯ••ƒ˜‡–Š‡ industry for over a decade. She can be reached at ocean, one marine protected area at a time. SDAA [email protected]

Supported by FEATURE: MARINE SANCTUARIES AROUND THE WORLD

MARINE SANCTUARIES AROUND THE WORLD We visit some of the planet’s most precious protected waters open to divers By various contributors Street, RajaAmpat of DampierStrait close tothesurface dolphins swimming snouted spinner A schooloflong-

Tobias Friedrich FEATURE: MARINE SANCTUARIES AROUND THE WORLD

SOUTH GEORGIA AND SOUTH SANDWICH ISLANDS By Gerald Nowak

FALKLAND ISLANDS

SOUTH GEORGIA AND SOUTH SANDWICH ISLANDS

WHEN Situated 1,300 kilometres southeast of the Falkland In less than 10 metres, we are at the 2012 WHERE Islands, the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia is bottom amidst the kelp forest – I see the Antarctic part of the South Georgia and South Sandwich Islands silhouette of a seal. I quickly realise that this WHAT (GSGSSI), a pristine, remote region that sustains can only be a leopard seal. The animal seems Marine Protected Area with Strict •‹‰‹Ƥ ƒ–’‘’—Žƒ–‹‘•‘ˆƒ”‹‡ƒƒŽ•ƒ† to be interested in us and swims in front of me Nature Reserve •‡ƒ„‹”†•Ǥ‘’”‡˜‡–‘˜‡”Ƥ•Š‹‰ƒ†‡š’Ž‘‹–ƒ–‹‘„› immediately. He is very fast, but he wants to play. Zones tourism, the British Overseas Territory, which, like the •’‡†–Š‡‡š–͕͙‹—–‡• Šƒ•‹‰–Š‡•‡ƒŽ–‘ Falkland Islands, is claimed by Argentina, was turned ‰‡––Š‡’‡”ˆ‡ –•Š‘–ǡ„—–—‡š’‡ –‡†Ž› into a large marine reserve in 2012. Ƥ†›•‡Žˆƒ––Š‡•—”ˆƒ ‡ƒ‰ƒ‹Ǥ ‡•™‹• The reserve covers over one million square toward me and gently nudges my dome port kilometres of sea, and any commercial use of bottom with his mouth several times. Though –”ƒ™Ž‡–•‹•’”‘Š‹„‹–‡†ǡ™‹–ŠŽ‘‰Ž‹‡Ƥ•Š‡”‹‡•Ž‹‹–‡† I don’t feel threatened, my guide calls me out to depths above 700 metres. This policy protects the of the water immediately. Back on the boat, young black hake, which can live at great depths. The •Š‡‡š’Žƒ‹•Š‘™†ƒ‰‡”‘—•–Š‹•ƒ‹ƒŽ direct coastal areas around all the islands have been ƒ„‡ǡƒ†„‡Ž‹‡˜‡•–Šƒ–Š‡‹•‡šŠ‹„‹–‹‰ declared strict nature reserves to protect animals •‹‰•‘ˆ‡”˜‘—•‡••Ǥ ˆƒ –ǡŠ‡ƪ‘ƒ–• ABOVE that live on land and go hunting in the sea, such as around the boat several times before A fur seal playing penguins, seals and seabirds. Likewise, the reserve disappearing between the kelp, in the waters of South Georgia ‹ Ž—†‡•–Š‡•’ƒ™‹‰ƒ”‡ƒ•ˆ‘”ƒ›†‡‡’Ǧ•‡ƒƤ•Š though he never opens his mouth to threaten us. species, which can now reproduce undisturbed here. Heading to shore, we are greeted by OPPOSITE PAGE TOP For many decades, whales, seals and dolphins curious baby fur seals, while elephant seals laze South Georgia is home were caught here for their blubber which was around with countless penguins standing to an estimated four million Antarctic ’”‘ ‡••‡†‹–‘Ƥ•Š‘‹Žǡ„—––‘†ƒ›ǡ–Š‡”‡‰‹‘Ž‹˜‡•‘ „‡–™‡‡–Š‡Ǥ‹–Š›Ƥ•Š‡›‡Ž‡•ƒ––ƒ Š‡†ǡ fur seals –Š‡–‘—”‹•‹†—•–”›ǡ™Š‹ Š‹•‰”ƒ†—ƒŽŽ›‡š’ƒ†‹‰Ǥ I’m sitting on the shore till I am surrounded by dozens of king penguins. Curious, they look OPPOSITE PAGE LEOPARD SEALS, down at the camera. What could they be thinking? BOTTOM FUR SEALS AND KING PENGUINS As the time to leave approaches, most of our group King penguins are the second-largest ‹˜‹‰‘ơ–Š‡‹•Žƒ†‘ˆ‡”ǡ–Š‡˜‹•‹„‹Ž‹–›‹• has already made their way back, and I am left alone penguin species •‹š–‘‡‹‰Š–‡–”‡•ƒ†–Š‡•—‹••Š‹‹‰Ǥ surrounded by 200,000 animals. What a sight.

66 | SDAA ANTARCTICA Gerald Nowak Gerald Nowak

67 | SDAA Wade Hughes

THE AZORES PORTUGAL By Wade and Robyn Hughes

WHEN The most isolated archipelago in the North Atlantic, 1980 WHERE –Š‡‹•Žƒ†•‘ˆ–Š‡œ‘”‡•ƒ”‡•‘‡͖ǡ͙͔͔‹Ž‘‡–”‡• Portugal east of New York and 1,600 kilometres west of the WHAT Portuguese capital of Lisbon. Discovered and Strict Nature •‡––Ž‡†„›–Š‡‘”–—‰—‡•‡‹–Š‡͕͙–Š ‡–—”›ǡ Reserve, Wilderness these remote islands, perched atop the Mid-Atlantic Area, Habitat/ Ridge, boast spectacular volcanic landscapes with AZORES Species ‡š–”ƒ‘”†‹ƒ”›„‹‘†‹˜‡”•‹–›Ǥ Management Area, Protected Š‡œ‘”‡•ǯƤ”•–ƒ”‹‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒǡƒ– ƒ‹ƒŽǡ Area with was declared in 1980. There are now more than 60 Sustainable Use such protected areas throughout the archipelago, of Natural Resources ƒ†‘ơ•Š‘”‡Ǥ‹–Š–Š‡•‡ƒ”‡ƒ•‡•—”‹‰–Šƒ–ƒ”‹‡ operators, is well managed and protective of the biodiversity and geological hot spots such as animals that provide the economic foundation of seamounts and geothermal vents are protected, –Š‡‹†—•–”›ǯ•‡š‹•–‡ ‡Ǥ ABOVE Two adolescent many species of whales and dolphins continue to In the Azores, whalers never adopted the female sperm whales Ƥ†ˆ‘‘†ƒ†•ƒ –—ƒ”›‹–Š‡ Ž‡ƒ”™ƒ–‡”•‘ˆ–Š‡ destructive industrial-scale mechanised killing swim purposefully towards a larger archipelago. The highly regulated whale watching practised elsewhere. They hunted only with handheld female industry, led by long-standing and and dedicated harpoon and lance from small open boats. As a result,

68 | SDAA EUROPE & AFRICA

 ǧ  Presumably killed by a deep-diving predator, such as a sperm whale or a beaked whale, that took out the head and a large chunk of internal organs, this bottom-dwelling female Atlantic giant octopus (Haliphron atlanticusȌ™ƒ•‘„•‡”˜‡†ƪ‘ƒ–‹‰‘ơ–Š‡ Azores in about a thousand metres of water. But why was it partially eaten? Some think that with an abundance of food, predators can be selective and only take the choice cuts from their prey. Perhaps the energy yield from the head and internal organs is higher than from the remainder of the mantle and tentacles. Another theory is simply that an event interrupted the meal, after the fatal bite had been delivered. As with so many mysteries of the deep, the photograph raises more questions than

Robyn Hughes it alone can answer.

in global terms, the Azores’ whaling industry took almost inconsequential numbers of sperm whales until whaling ceased in 1987. Perhaps this is why the whales, in such abundance, are still to be found here today. Given their longevity, it is entirely possible that some of the adult females currently habituating the Azores were calves and adolescents in these waters when the last whales were taken. If so, they have lived through the transition of human regard for their species from being little more than a commodity, to widespread appreciation, and ˆƒ• ‹ƒ–‹‘ ™‹–Š –Š‡‹” ‘’Ž‡š •‘ ‹ƒŽ •–”— –—”‡• ƒ† mysterious life cycles.

Discovered and settled by the Portuguese in the 15th century, these remote islands boast spectacular volcanic landscapes with extraordinary biodiversity Wade Hughes

Modern-day research shows us that sperm whales, The photographs of whales and ƒ†‘–Š‡”™ŠƒŽ‡•ƒ††‘Ž’Š‹•ǡ‡š‹•–™‹–Š‹ ‘’Ž‡š TOP dolphins in this article were taken while cultures. We do know that they communicate with A specimen of the freediving under permits issued by Atlantic giant octopus Secretaria Regional do Mar, Ciência e each other – but do they have a language? We know ˆ‘—† ƪ‘ƒ–‹‰ ‘ơ –Š‡ they teach and learn from each other, as we see them Azores Tecnologia, strictly in accordance with observing us as we are observing them. But what do precautions taken to avoid disturbance to the animals. Swimming with whales is they make of us? It is in the sanctuary of the Azores ABOVE forbidden in the Azores without written –Šƒ–Š—ƒ•Šƒ˜‡–Š‡„‡•– Šƒ ‡‘ˆƤŽŽ‹‰‹•‘‡‘ˆ Atlantic spotted permission of the Secretaria dolphin zoom past in those blanks in our fragmented knowledge of these the open ocean amazing animals. ‘ơ –Š‡ œ‘”‡•

69 | SDAA FEATURE: MARINE SANCTUARIES AROUND THE WORLD

ALDABRA ATOLL SEYCHELLES ALDABRA ATOLL By Imran Ahmad Imran Ahmad

WHEN The remote wilderness of Aldabra Atoll, one of the spent more than a couple of hours at this wild and 1982 WHERE ‡› Š‡ŽŽ‡•ǯ•‘—–Š‡”‘•–‹•Žƒ†•ǡ‹•ƒ’’”‘š‹ƒ–‡Ž› beautiful spot. Seychelles 1,000 kilometres southwest of the main island of Ž†ƒ„”ƒǯ•‡š–”ƒ‘”†‹ƒ”›–‡””ƒ‹‹•”—‰‰‡†ƒ† WHAT Mahé. The Aldabra group is comprised of a distinct ‡š–”‡‡Ž›Šƒ”•ŠǤ – ‘•‹•–•ƒ‹Ž›‘ˆˆ‘••‹Ž‹•‡† UNESCO World and isolated collection of coral islands. Aldabra coral reefs and mushroom-shaped rocks called Heritage Site itself is the world’s largest raised coral atoll – some “champignons”, eroded to form a brittle and ͙͗‹Ž‘‡–”‡•Ž‘‰„›͕͘‹Ž‘‡–”‡•™‹†‡ǡ™‹–Šƒ dangerously sharp rock. Pavé, a rough limestone, and –‘–ƒŽŽƒ†ƒ”‡ƒ‘ˆƒ”‘—†͕͔͘•“—ƒ”‡‹Ž‘‡–”‡•Ǥ –• ’Žƒ–‹ǡƒƪƒ––‡”Ž‹‡•–‘‡ǡƒ”‡ƒŽ•‘ˆ‘—†‘Ž†ƒ„”ƒ geographical isolation, rough terrain and scarcity of and together they form a rough ring around the fresh water have deterred large human populations central lagoon. The average height above sea level ˆ”‘•‡––Ž‹‰Ǥ•ƒ”‡•—Ž–ǡŽ†ƒ„”ƒ‹••‹‰‹Ƥ ƒ–Ž›Ž‡•• is only eight metres, which is very low considering disturbed than other atolls around the world. It is a Aldabra’s vast size. This ring is formed by four main ABOVE refuge for many endangered and unique species and islands (Picard, Grande Terre, Polymnie, and Malabar) Blacktip reef sharks cruising through the remaining as one of the world’s natural wonders. Few and many smaller islets. The only permanent human waters of the atoll people have ever been there, and even fewer have settlement is on Picard Island.

70 | SDAA LEFT Aldabra is home to 100,000 endemic giant tortoises

FAR LEFT Aldabra is one of the

Imran Ahmad Imran Ahmad world’s wildest and most remote regions

PARADISE ABOVE AND BELOW ƒŽž’ƒ‰‘•’‘’—Žƒ–‹‘Ǥ‹‹Žƒ”Ž›ǡƪ‹‰Š–Ž‡••Žƒ†„‹”†•ǡ such as rails, used to be common on islands across Aldabra’s enormous lagoon is fed and drained by the world but have been wiped out by colonising four narrow channels to the ocean, which together humans and invasive species. Aldabra now hosts a provide the tidal heartbeat of the atoll, dominating ‰”‘™‹‰’‘’—Žƒ–‹‘‘ˆ–Š‡Žƒ•–”‡ƒ‹‹‰ƪ‹‰Š–Ž‡••”ƒ‹Ž all activity. The lagoon and coral reefs are largely population in the Indian Ocean. unspoiled and teeming with colourful, diverse and The atoll has been colonised by breeding seabirds abundant sea life. They are home to hundreds of in their tens of thousands: Greater and lesser –”‘’‹ ƒŽ Ƥ•Š •’‡ ‹‡• ƒ†ǡ ‹ ”‡ ‡– ›‡ƒ”•ǡ •‹‰Š–‹‰• ‘ˆ ˆ”‹‰ƒ–‡„‹”†•ǡ„‘‘„‹‡•ǡƤ˜‡•’‡ ‹‡•‘ˆ–‡”‹ Ž—†‹‰–Š‡ the rare have been reported. The large caspian tern, tropicbirds, and even an oceanic ƒ– Ž†ƒ„”ƒ ‹• ƒ ‡šƒ’Ž‡ ‘ˆ ƒ •–—‹‰ ‹–ƒ – ƒ”‹‡ „”‡‡†‹‰ ‘Ž‘›‘ˆ‰”‡ƒ–‡”ƪƒ‹‰‘•ǤŽ†ƒ„”ƒ‹• ecosystem with amongst the highest abundance of also a turtle mecca, with an increasing number of marine predators in the world. The waters act as a turtles laying eggs on the beaches annually. And corridor for large migratory marine species including the atoll hosts one of the largest populations of the many species of whale and dolphin, marine turtles, planet’s biggest terrestrial arthropod, the coconut whale sharks and several other large shark species. crab. Other animals and birds found on Aldabra ‡‹‰ ‘ Ž†ƒ„”ƒ ‹• •— Š ƒ •—””‡ƒŽ ‡š’‡”‹‡ ‡ –Šƒ– include colourful geckos, fruitbats, land birds, shore is often likened to going back in time. Giant tortoises birds, and insects, many of which are endemic to of many species used to occur all over the world, the atoll. roaming islands large and small, and of these, there Ž†ƒ„”ƒ‹•ƒ”‡ˆ—‰‡ˆ‘”ƒ›ƒ†‹–•‡š–”ƒ‘”†‹ƒ”› are now only two species left. Aldabra’s 100,000 ecosystem is a place unlike any other – thankfully it endemic giant tortoises make up the world’s largest has received the protection it deserves. This fragile remaining population of one of these ancient species, island is indeed a land beyond imagination and a and it is three times larger than the better known privilege for all those that visit.

A CLOSE SHAVE

1960S 1965 1976 1979 1982 Plans for Aldabra After much Aldabra was The Seychelles Aldabra was to be developed as controversy, the returned to Islands inscribed on a British/American military base plans Seychelles and Foundation (SIF) the UNESCO military base were aborted and immediately granted was established World were revealed the stewardship of the highest level as the responsible Heritage list the atoll was passed of protection management to the Royal Society by the Seychelles authority of London, who government initiated a long-term research programme

71 | SDAA SARDINIA By Antonio Busiello SARDINIA

Italy is well-known worldwide for the Renaissance, the arts, food, the Pope, its lifestyle and many other things. However, not many people know that diving in Italy is as beautiful as the rest of its attractions. Considered one of Europe’s most beautiful tourist destinations, Sardinia ranks as the second largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, and has over 1,700 kilometres of gorgeous coastline to discover. ǧ  PROTECTED AREA Tavolara-Punta Coda Cavallo MPA is located in the WHEN 1997 northeast, south of the world-famous Costa Smeralda. WHERE Ž›ƒ—–Š‘”‹•‡††‹˜‹‰‘’‡”ƒ–‹‘•ǡ•— Šƒ•Ž— Ƥ‹–‘ Italy Diving Center, can operate in this area. WHAT Natural Marine Reserve and PAPA BANKS – Papa Bank 1 and Papa Bank 2 are divided Natural Marine by a sand channel on the east side of the small island of Protected Area Tavolara. Huge schools of Mediterranean chromis and

Antonio Busiello ornate cover the huge gorgonian fans found all over both banks. Big groupers, snappers and jacks swim around them looking for food. It is also possible to see big yellowtail, mobulas and Mediterranean moray eels TOP LEFT coming up from the Tavolara walls adorned with A macro shot yellow cluster anemones. taken at Tavolara

ARCHIPELAGO DI LA MADDALENA NATIONAL PARK This national park includes many little islands between WHEN 1984 Sardinia and Corsica. The marine park has over 30 diving WHERE spots accessible only by authorised diving centres such as Italy Blue . WHAT National Park LAVEZZI – For decades, Lavezzi has been known in the Mediterranean as “The Grouper City”. Huge, friendly groupers abound, demanding attention from divers. MIDDLE LEFT

Antonio Busiello Š‹•†‹˜‹‰•’‘–ǡ͖͙–‘͔͗‡–”‡•†‡‡’ǡ‹•Ž‘ ƒ–‡†ƒˆ‡™ Lavezzi is one of the most popular miles north of the archipelago in the Bocche di Bonifacio dive sites in the National Park and attracts divers from all over Europe. Mediterranean  ǧ    Within this marine reserve lies the most important WHEN —†‡”‰”‘—† ƒ˜‡•›•–‡‹ –ƒŽ›ǡƒ’‘ƒ ‹ƒǤơ‡”‹‰ 1982 WHERE some of the biggest underwater caves in Europe, the Italy •–—‹‰ƒ”•–•›•–‡‰‘‡•‹•‹†‡–Š‡‹•Žƒ†ƒ†‘ơ‡”• WHAT •‡˜‡”ƒŽƒƒœ‹‰†‹˜‹‰‘’’‘”–—‹–‹‡•ƒ–†‹ơ‡”‡–†‡’–Š•Ǥ Marine Reserve One of the best options for diving here is Capo Galera Diving Center.

FALCO’S CAVE – Considered one of the most important caves in the area, Falco’s cave walls and arches are fully covered with beautiful red coral. Snappers and groupers swim by the entrance of the cave, which leads to an BOTTOM LEFT underground cave where divers can walk around admire A diver emerges Antonio Busiello the walls, arches, stalactites and stalagmites. from Falco’s Cave

72 | SDAA SPAIN

ISLAS HORMIGAS

CABO DE Mike Kochalski ǧ  HORMIGAS By Mike Kochalski

‹–—ƒ–‡†‘ơ–Š‡„‡ƒ—–‹ˆ—ŽƤ•Š‹‰’‘”–‘ˆ Cabo de Palos, Murcia, Spain, is the marine reserve of Cabo de Palos-Islas Hormigas. It was declared a Specially Protected Area of Mediterranean Importance with the key objective of ensuring the reproduction of commercial species. The inner reserve of Islas ‘”‹‰ƒ•‹•ƒŽ•‘ Žƒ••‹Ƥ‡†ƒ•ƒ•’‡ ‹ƒŽ’”‘–‡ –‹‘ area for birds on the island and requires a special licence to visit. The total area of the reserve is some 19 square kilometres, with a beautiful seascape of rock Mike Kochalski ’‹ƒ Ž‡•ǡ†”‘’Ǧ‘ơ•ǡ ƒ˜‡•ƒ†•‡ƒ‰”ƒ••’”ƒ‹”‹‡•‘ˆ oceanic Posidonia. There is a great variety of fauna and sponges, which are home to the urchins and BAJO DE DENTRO – This is a huge rocky spire or WHEN 1995 •–ƒ”Ƥ•Š–Šƒ–’”‘˜‹†‡–Š‡Š—–‹‰‰”‘—†•ˆ‘”–Š‡•‡ƒ Dz–‘‘–Šdz”‹•‹‰—’ˆ”‘–Š‡•‡ƒ„‡†͙͔‡–”‡•„‡Ž‘™Ǥ WHERE bass, grouper, mullet and octopus that abound here. ––Š‡͖͙‡–”‡ƒ”ǡƒ ‘’Ž‡–‡•™‹ƒ”‘—†™‹ŽŽ Spain Hidden amongst the crevasses are moray eels and allow a visit to the cathedral-like cave, with soft WHAT crustaceans that thrive in this protected environment. ‘”ƒŽƒ†•–ƒ”Ƥ•Š ƒ”’‡–‹‰‹–• ‡‹Ž‹‰ƒ†’ƒ‹”•‘ˆ Marine Reserve with a Š‡™ƒ–‡”–‡’‡”ƒ–—”‡”ƒ‰‡•ˆ”‘͕͘†‡‰”‡‡• brown meagre gently cruising by. From August to No-Take Zone ‡Ž•‹—•‹–Š‡™‹–‡”–‘͖͙†‡‰”‡‡•‡Ž•‹—•‹–Š‡ ‡’–‡„‡”ǡ•ƒŽŽ‡†‹–‡””ƒ‡ƒ•—Ƥ•Š ƒ„‡•‡‡ •—‡”™‹–Š‡š ‡ŽŽ‡–™ƒ–‡” Žƒ”‹–›ƒŽŽ›‡ƒ””‘—†Ǥ as they congregate around the spire, while tuna and This area is considered a biogeographical border „ƒ””ƒ —†ƒ ‘’Ž‡–‡–Š‡‡š’‡”‹‡ ‡ƒ•–Š‡›†ƒ”– of the Mediterranean and segregates the Atlantic around, attacking baitballs. ‹ƪ—‡ ‡‘ˆ–Š‡Ž„‘”ƒ‡ƒˆ”‘–Š‡”‡•–‘ˆ–Š‡ Mediterranean, creating the huge biodiversity that the BAJO DE LA TESTA – This is a rocky formation, water masses bring as they diverge. This is critical for shaped like a plateau and rising up from a seabed bringing pelagic species to the area at certain times of of Posidonia oceanica (seagrass) and coralline algae the year. ˆ”‘ƒ†‡’–Š‘ˆ͖͘‡–”‡•ǤŠ‡–‘’‘ˆ–Š‡’Žƒ–‡ƒ—•‹–• at eight metres in full sunlight and is home to many ǧ –”‹’Ž‡Ƥ„Ž‡‹‡•Ȃ’‡”ˆ‡ –‘†‡Ž•–Šƒ–™‹ŽŽ†‡Ž‹‰Š––Š‡ PILES 1ȂŠ‹•Šƒ•ƒƒš‹—†‡’–Š‘ˆ͔͗‡–”‡• photographer. In July and August, this is a great site and consists of a rocky ridge rising up from for photographers to hang on the at about the seabed. Full of crevasses and rocky protrusions, Ƥ˜‡‡–”‡•ƒ†•Š‘‘–—’‹–‘–Š‡•—–‘ ƒ– ŠŒ‡ŽŽ›Ƥ•Š it is home to inquisitive moray eels. During the drifting by. months of April to May, can be seen scurrying about looking for mates. The ever-present BAJO DE FUERA – This is the outermost site in the Œƒ •ƒ†„”‡ƒ‹‰Ž‡™‹–Š•ƒŽŽ‡”Ƥ•Š‘–Š‹• reserve and has been a danger to navigate over the ‡š ‡ŽŽ‡–†‹˜‡•‹–‡Ǥ years. A rocky bar about 100 metres long, it has steep protruding spires reaching to just three metres below PILES 2ȂŠ‹••‡ ‘†”‹†‰‡‹••‹‹Žƒ”–‘–Š‡Ƥ”•– the surface to catch the unwary sailor. Scattered ™‹–Šƒƒš‹—†‡’–Š‘ˆ͖͗‡–”‡•ǤŠ‡”‘ •Š‡”‡ around the rocky bar are the remains of several ships TOP abound with tiny blennies and gobies and the site is a including the Sirio, which sank in 1906 after hitting the Œ‡ŽŽ›Ƥ•Šƪ‘ƒ–‹‰‡ƒ” must for the macro photographer. With patience, tiny ”‘ •™‹–ŠƒŽ‘••‘ˆ͖͔͘Ž‹˜‡•ǤŠ‡•–‘”›‘ˆ–Š‹•™”‡  the surface nudibranchs can also be found, whilst bream and jacks is one of greed and corruption as the immigrant ship shoal above divers. As the seasons move into late from Italy made its way to America. Other wrecks ABOVE summer, large pelagic species arrive, hunting baitballs. include the Nord America, and the freighter Minerva. A white-tufted worm

73 | SDAA FEATURE: MARINE SANCTUARIES AROUND THE WORLD Claudia Weber-Gebert

ǧ FR By Claudia Weber-Gebert

WHEN Port-Cros National Park covers 17 square kilometres 1963 ǧ WHERE ‘ˆ Žƒ† ƒ† ͖͝ •“—ƒ”‡ ‹Ž‘‡–”‡• ‘ˆ ™ƒ–‡”ǡ –Š‡ Ƥ”•– France national park in Europe to include both land and WHAT ™ƒ–‡”Ǥ Š‡ ’ƒ” ‹• Š‘‡ –‘ ͚͔͔ •’‡ ‹‡• ‘ˆ ƪ‘”ƒ ƒ† National Park with a No-Take Zone ͙͔͔ •’‡ ‹‡• ‘ˆ ƒ”‹‡ ƒŽ‰ƒ‡Ǥ ‹ˆ‡ ƒ„‘—†•ǡ ™‹–Š ͕͘͘ •’‡ ‹‡• ‘ˆ „‹”†•ǡ ‹ Ž—†‹‰ ͔͘ ‡†ƒ‰‡”‡† •’‡ ‹‡•ǡ ͕͔͜ •’‡ ‹‡• ‘ˆ Ƥ•Š ƒ† •‘‡ ‡†‡‹ Žƒ† ”‡ƒ–—”‡• •— Š as geckos and frogs. The park is also home to 30 permanent human residents, who must adhere to regulations put in place by the park administration. These restrictions ǧ also apply to the inhabitants of the protected area THE GOLDEN ISLESȂŠ‡”‡ƒ”‡ƒ„‘—–͙͔†‹˜‡•‹–‡• on Porquerolles as well as visiting tourists. The between the three islands of the Golden Isles. geographical location of the islands of Hyères has Žƒ†ǡŠ‹‹‰–”ƒ‹Ž•‘ˆ˜ƒ”‹‘—•†‹ƥ —Ž–‹‡•™‹ŽŽ given the park immunity to the rising temperatures ‡š ‹–‡–Š‡ƒ†˜‡–—”‡”‹›‘—ǡ™Š‹Ž‡–Š‡„ƒ– ƒ˜‡ that the rest of the Mediterranean faces – the cause in the Giens peninsula will delight the thrill-seekers. of a veritable algae plague on the French and Italian Divers can enjoy the seven stunning wrecks found Mediterranean coast. The cold mistral wind, which ƒ”‘—†–Š‡‹•Žƒ†•ǡ™‹–Š†‹ƥ —Ž–›Ž‡˜‡Ž•–Šƒ–”ƒ‰‡ blows south to the coast through the Rhône Valley, from beginner to the advanced deep- ’—•Š‡• –Š‡ —’’‡” ™ƒ” ™ƒ–‡” Žƒ›‡” ‘ơ –‘ –Š‡ ‘’‡ at Le Donator and Le Grec. sea. Not far from the coast, the seabed drops to over Particularly popular is the area between Port- ͖ǡ͔͔͔ ‡–”‡•ǡ ƒ† –Š‡ ‘Ž†ǡ Ž‡ƒ” ™ƒ–‡” –Šƒ– ƪ‘™• Cros and La Gebinière, which features dive sites that ABOVE from the depths regulates the waters of the region are among the most beautiful in the world. Large An octopus and preserves impressive biodiversity: Large shoals ‰”‘—’‡”•ǡ‘”ƒ›‡‡Ž•ǡ‘ –‘’—•‡•ƒ†•Š‘ƒŽ‹‰Ƥ•Šƒ”‡ hunts in the seagrass meadows ‘ˆ Ƥ•Š •— Š ƒ• „ƒ””ƒ —†ƒǡ „”‡ƒǡ ‰‘Ž†Ƥ•Š ƒ† ƒ”‡ always to be seen, and huge barracudas often swim of Port-Cros abundant in the waters of Port-Cros. by in the light .

74 | SDAA EUROPE & AFRICA

EGYPT

BROTHERS BROTHERS ISLANDS ISLANDS By Tobias Friedrich

The Ikhwa Islands, commonly known as down to 63 metres, the vertical-standing WHEN 1986 the Brothers Islands, form one of the most famous Numidia ranges from 10 metres and stretches WHERE ƒ”‹‡’ƒ”•‹‰›’–Ǥˆ–‡”–Š‡Ƥ”•–†‹˜‡”•˜‹•‹–‡† all the way to 80 metres. It is one of the most Egypt the two islands at the beginning of the 1980s, the beautiful coral-covered wrecks in the world, WHAT area became a protected marine park in 1986. with reels of colourful soft corals lining both The region became very popular in the years after sides of the wreck at 30 metres. Another great and it is now one of the most well-regarded dive dive is on the south plateau. Grey reef and spots in the Red Sea. thresher sharks can be spotted here, often „‘—–͙͔ƒ—–‹ ƒŽ‹Ž‡•‡ƒ•–‘ˆŽ—‡•‹”ǡ–Š‡ ‡ ‘—–‡”‡† „‡–™‡‡ ͙͔ –‘ ͕͔͔ ‡–”‡•Ǥ two islands, Big Brother and Little Brother, are Oceanic whitetip sharks are also a common sight, located in the open ocean where there is great ‡ƒ•‹Ž›ƒ ‡••‹„Ž‡ ƒ– ƒ ‡”‡ Ƥ˜‡ ‡–”‡•Ǥ visibility and lots of life, though not forgetting the strong current that can be a challenge for LITTLE BROTHER ISLAND – There aren’t any ‹‡š’‡”‹‡ ‡††‹˜‡”•ǤŠ‘—‰Š–Š‡‹•Žƒ†•ƒ”‡‘Ž› ™”‡ •Š‡”‡ǡ „—– ‹––Ž‡ ”‘–Š‡” •Žƒ† ‹• ƒ ‡š“—‹•‹–‡ ƒƤ˜‡Ǧ‹—–‡„‘ƒ–”‹†‡ƒ’ƒ”–ǡ–Š‡›‘ơ‡”ƒŽ‘–‘ˆ dive site for shark and reef lovers. Divers may visit †‹ơ‡”‡–†‹˜‹‰‘’’‘”–—‹–‹‡•Ǥ –Š‡•Šƒ” Ž‡ƒ‹‰ •–ƒ–‹‘ „› –Š‡ ͔͘Ǧ‡–”‡ ’Žƒ–‡ƒ— ‘–Š‡‘”–Š •‹†‡Ǥ Š‡ –”‹  ‹• –‘ ”‡ƒ‹ ‡š– –‘ ‘” ǧ above the plateau. On the west side of the island is BIG BROTHER ISLAND – Known for its iconic perhaps one of the most beautiful wall dives in the lighthouse, Big Brother Island is a wreck diver’s world, while the east side features a garden of huge dream. In the northwest corner, two wrecks lie ‰‘”‰‘‹ƒˆƒ•Ǥ Š‡ •‘—–Š ‘ơ‡”• ’Ž‡–› ‘ˆ ’‘••‹„‹Ž‹–‹‡• BELOW The famous on the seabed: Numidia and Aida. While the Aida, to see sharks, especially the wandering oceanic lighthouse of •—‹͕͙͛͝ǡ„‡‰‹•ƒ–͖͝‡–”‡•ƒ†”‡ƒ Š‡• whitetips that love to swim under the boats. Big Brother Island Tobias Friedrich FEATURE: MARINE SANCTUARIES AROUND THE WORLD

AUSTRALIA

GREAT BARRIER REEF GREAT BARRIER Text by Great Barrier Reef Legacy REEF Images by Jürgen Freund

WHEN The Great Barrier Reef is the largest living structure on the marine paradise it was once heralded as. 1975 WHERE the planet, stretching 2,300 kilometres – large enough It is the pace at which the climate is changing that Australia to be seen from space. Known for its breathtaking makes the situation particularly untenable. Coral reefs WHAT array of marine creatures, the marine park is home have never before faced the barrage of threats they UNESCO World to 600 types of soft and hard corals, more than 100 †‘–‘†ƒ›Ȃ–Š‡͖͔͕͚ ‘”ƒŽ„Ž‡ƒ Š‹‰‡˜‡–™ƒ•ƒƤ”•– Heritage Site •’‡ ‹‡• ‘ˆ Œ‡ŽŽ›Ƥ•Šǡ ͗ǡ͔͔͔ ˜ƒ”‹‡–‹‡• ‘ˆ ‘ŽŽ—• •ǡ ͙͔͔ for a decline of that magnitude. With our continued •’‡ ‹‡• ‘ˆ ™‘”•ǡ ͕ǡ͚͖͙ –›’‡• ‘ˆ Ƥ•Šǡ ͕͗͗ ˜ƒ”‹‡–‹‡•‘ˆ burning of fossil fuels, more bleaching events are sharks and rays, and more than 30 species of whales inevitable in the coming years, leaving coral reefs and dolphins. Ž‹–‡”ƒŽŽ›ƒ†Ƥ‰—”ƒ–‹˜‡Ž›‹Š‘–™ƒ–‡”Ǥ Sadly, with the recent coral bleaching event Thankfully, coral reefs are resilient and have and crown-of-thorns infestation, the great reef has survived on the planet for millions of years. They become the poster boy for climate change – far from are dynamic and adaptable ecosystems and it is Jürgen Freund OCEANIA

CLIMATE CHANGE REEF THREATS •  ‡ƒƒ ‹†‹Ƥ ƒ–‹‘ • Warming • Pollution • Poor water quality • Unsustainable Ƥ•Š‹‰’”ƒ –‹ ‡•

OPPOSITE PAGE A bird’s eye view of Australia’s Great Barrier Reef

LEFT A potato cod (Epinephelus tukula) Jürgen Freund with cleaner wrasse

With our continued burning of fossil fuels, more bleaching events are inevitable in the coming years, leaving FRUDOUHHIVOLWHUDOO\DQG¿JXUDWLYHO\ in hot water almost certain that corals will survive in some form or another into the future, though they may look and ˆ— –‹‘˜‡”›†‹ơ‡”‡–Ž›ˆ”‘–‘†ƒ›Ǥ There is a new and intriguing school of thought emerging in the “save the reef” debate, with •‘‡‡š’‡”–• ‘ Ž—†‹‰–Šƒ––Š‡Ž‡••‡”–ƒ”‰‡–‘ˆ protecting the ecological function of the reef is more realistic than salvaging it. Their stance is that it is too late to preserve the reef as we know it, but if we can understand and maintain key ecosystem services, we will avoid catastrophe for the millions of people who depend on coral reefs for their food and livelihood. Reef tourism and the wider community have key roles to play in sharing the reef’s story with the world. When the average person can understand the problems surrounding coral bleaching, we can mobilise governments to take the necessary action. What will ultimately determine the fate of coral reefs worldwide is how quickly we stop burning fossil fuels and heating our planet. Positive and urgent action ‘ Ž‹ƒ–‡ Šƒ‰‡ ‘„‹‡†™‹–Š‡ơ‡ –‹˜‡”‡‡ˆ management, increased investment in research and increased public awareness means the Great Barrier ‡‡ˆ•–‹ŽŽŠƒ•ƒƤ‰Š–‹‰ Šƒ ‡Ǥ FEATURE: MARINE SANCTUARIES AROUND THE WORLD

MARSHALL ISLANDS

KWAJALEIN ATOLL By Brandi Mueller KWAJALEIN ATOLL

WHEN The Republic of the Marshall Islands (RMI) is home million square kilometres that joined with the 2011 WHERE to one of the world’s largest shark sanctuaries. It Marshall Islands, Palau, and the Commonwealth of Marshall Islands covers almost two million square kilometres, an area the Northern Marianas Islands’ sanctuaries to create WHAT ƒ„‘—––Š‡•‹œ‡‘ˆ‡š‹ ‘ǡ™‹–Š‘Ž›ƒŽƒ†ƒ••‘ˆ͕͕͜ the Regional Shark Sanctuary. All Shark Sanctuary square kilometres. The rest of that remote area in the –‘‰‡–Š‡”ǡ–Š‹••ƒ –—ƒ”›•’ƒ•͚Ǥ͙‹ŽŽ‹‘•“—ƒ”‡ ‡•–‡”ƒ ‹Ƥ ǡŒ—•–‘”–Š‘ˆ–Š‡‡“—ƒ–‘”ƒ†™‡•– ‹Ž‘‡–”‡•‹–Š‡‡•–‡”ƒ ‹Ƥ  ‡ƒǤ of the International Date Line, is a healthy marine How and if this massive area can be monitored, ecosystem teeming with sharks and other marine controlled, and how surveillance will occur remains life. The sanctuary was created in 2011, following the ƒ“—‡•–‹‘ǡ„—––Š‡‡ơ‘”–‹•Žƒ—†ƒ„Ž‡ƒ†•Š‘™• Ž‡ƒ†‘ˆƒŽƒ—ǡ™Š‹ Š™Š‘‡•–ƒ„Ž‹•Š‡†–Š‡Ƥ”•–•Šƒ” –Š‡Ž‡˜‡Ž‘ˆ†‡†‹ ƒ–‹‘–Š‡’‡‘’Ž‡‘ˆ–Š‡ƒ ‹Ƥ  sanctuary in 2009, the largest of its kind up to that have towards shark conservation. The collaboration point. Since then, other countries have joined in of the FSM, RMI, Palau, Guam and CNMI will and created larger sanctuaries, including Guam, the further enable them to work together on these Commonwealth of the Northern Marianas Islands tough problems. (CNMI), and the Federated States of Micronesia. Almost every dive in the Marshall Islands includes The RMI shark sanctuary bans the commercial sightings of sharks. Whitetip reef sharks and nurse Ƥ•Š‹‰‘ˆ•Šƒ”•ƒ†–Š‡•ƒŽ‡‘ˆ•Šƒ”‘”•Šƒ”’ƒ”–• sharks cruise the decks of Japanese WWII ȋ‹ Ž—†‹‰Ƥ•ȌǤ –ƒŽ•‘’”‘Š‹„‹–• ‡”–ƒ‹–›’‡•‘ˆ and grey reef sharks are a common sight on almost Ƥ•Š‹‰‰‡ƒ”•— Šƒ•™‹”‡Ž‡ƒ†‡”•ǡ™Š‹ Š‹ ”‡ƒ•‡•Šƒ” every reef dive. On the oceanside of the atoll, bycatch. Fines of up to US$200,000 can be given sightings of silky sharks, hammerheads, oceanic –‘ƒ›‘‡ˆ‘—†Ƥ•Š‹‰•Šƒ”•‘”‹’‘••‡••‹‘‘ˆ whitetips, and tiger sharks are just some of the many •Šƒ”Ƥ•Ǥ ‘”ƒ ‘—–”›‘ˆŒ—•–‘˜‡”͙͔ǡ͔͔͔’‡‘’Ž‡ǡ species spotted by divers and from boats. this massive sanctuary is a huge step forward in the This mostly unvisited and isolated region is ‘•‡”˜ƒ–‹‘‘ˆ•Šƒ”•Ǥ –Š‡ ǡƤ•Š‹‰„‘ƒ–•—•– probably one of the most pristine places left on Earth, clear their catch at one of the islands before leaving with comparatively low impact from commercial and show that they do not have sharks on-board. Ƥ•Š‹‰ǡ’‘ŽŽ—–‹‘ǡ†‡˜‡Ž‘’‡–ǡƒ†‡˜‡†‹˜‡”•Ǥ ͖͔͕͙ǡ–Š‡ ‡†‡”ƒ–‡†–ƒ–‡•‘ˆ‹ ”‘‡•‹ƒ Its healthy shark populations and beautiful marine created a shark sanctuary covering almost three life is evidence of what protection can achieve.

RIGHT A nurse shark hides under the wing of a WWII plane in the aircraft graveyard at Kwajalein Atoll Brandi Mueller

78 | SDAA OCEANIA Tobias Friedrich Tobias Friedrich Tobias Friedrich

HANIFARU BAY INDIA By Tobias Friedrich

Situated in the Baa Atoll of the Maldives, northwest WHEN HANIFARU BAY of Malé, Hanifaru Bay is no more than a bank of sand 2011 WHERE with some small reef blocks in the middle of it. Yet up Maldives to 200 manta rays have been reported harmoniously WHAT MALDIVES feeding in the bay, where it is assumed that the UNESCO Biosphere of plankton is very high. There, they Reserve perform an ingenious act: They swim short distances –‘ ‡ƒ Š ‘–Š‡” •‘ –Šƒ– –Š‡ —ƤŽ–‡”‡† ’Žƒ–‘ ‘ˆ ‘‡ ƒ‹ƒŽ •–”‡ƒ• ‹–‘ –Š‡ ‘—–Š ‘ˆ –Š‡ ‡š– Ȃ ƒ– –Š‡ many divers entering the once calm waters of same time forming a huge cyclone. the bay, interrupting the manta rays as they feed. The result – manta ray numbers have dropped ˆ”‘͖͔͔–‘‘Ž›͔͘–‘͙͔ƒ‹ƒŽ•‘‰‘‘††ƒ›• Up to 200 manta rays have in the last 10 years. been reported harmoniously In response, the authorities have restricted the access to the small bay, only permitting feeding in the bay, where it is snorkelling in the area since January 1, 2012. assumed that the concentration Let’s hope it’s not too late. of plankton is very high BEST TIME TO DIVE In general, the best time to dive the Maldives is from Scenes like this are what made the bay famous, November to April. To see the manta rays in Hanifaru ABOVE but at the same time it became its biggest tragedy: Bay, the chances are highest from August to October, The manta rays of Hanifaru Bay Hanifaru Bay has attracted hordes of tourists that but do note they now only visit the bay for two to †‹•’Žƒ› ‡š–”ƒ‘”†‹ƒ”› want to witness the spectacle, leading to far too three days during these months. feeding behaviour

79 | SDAA FEATURE: MARINE SANCTUARIES AROUND THE WORLD

NEW ZEALAND POOR KNIGHTS ISLANDS By Scott Bennett Scott Bennett Scott Bennett Scott Bennett

WHEN Since the release of The Lord of the Rings, Balanced on the edge of the continental shelf, the 1981 WHERE has been synonymous with Middle archipelago consists of two primary islands, Aorangi New Zealand ƒ”–ŠǢƒ‘—–Šƒ ‹Ƥ ™‘†‡”Žƒ†‘ˆˆ‘”‡•–•ǡ ƒ†ƒ™Š‹–‹ƒŠ‹ǡƒŽ‘‰™‹–Šƒ›•ƒŽŽ‡”‹•Ž‡–•ǤŽ‹ơ• WHAT mountains, volcanoes and geysers. Although plunge up to 100 metres below sea level, creating an Marine Reserve revered for its topside beauty, the country remains aquatic wonderland of caverns, sea caves and arches. obscure as a diving destination. Yet, the ‹š–›†‹˜‡•‹–‡•’Žƒ›Š‘•––‘‘˜‡”͕͖͙Ƥ•Š•’‡ ‹‡•Ǥ‘‘Ž is home to a place water merges with the warm East Auckland current, rated one of the world’s top 10 diving locations: creating a unique environment where subtropical The Poor Knights Islands. endemics blend with tropical visitors.

80 | SDAA OCEANIA

ǧ NORTHERN ARCH – Famous for the large numbers ‘ˆ–Š‡‘”† ‘™‡ ‘”ƒŽƤ•Šǡƒ•—„Ǧ–”‘’‹ ƒŽ•’‡ ‹‡• of stingrays that congregate during the summer, the found nowhere else in New Zealand. Other rarities conditions at the Northern Arch are superb, with a include spotted black grouper and mosaic morays. water temperature of 21 degrees Celsius, no current, Bronze whaler sharks are known to arrive in winter. ƒ†ƒ˜‹•‹„‹Ž‹–›‘ˆƒ”‘—†͖͙‡–”‡•Ǥ”‘™ƒŽ‰ƒ‡ The islands also feature geological wonders shrouds the walls, along with sea plumes and strap above water. On Aorangi Island, Rikoriko Cave is the ‡Ž’ǡƒ•ƒ••‹˜‡›‡ŽŽ‘™–ƒ‹Ž‹‰Ƥ•ŠŠ‘˜‡”‘—–•‹†‡ world’s largest , with an interior measuring the arch. Demoiselles and blue maomao cascade ͕͔͗‡–”‡•Ž‘‰ǡ͔͜‡–”‡•™‹†‡ǡƒ†͙͗‡–”‡•Š‹‰Š the walls along with schools of porae, creating a from waterline to ceiling. Pods of orca are known to •›’Š‘›‘ˆ„Ž—‡ǤŠ‹Ž‡–Š‡ ƒ˜‡ƪ‘‘”‹•„ƒ””‡ǡ–Š‡ enter and during the Second World War, a Japanese walls are ablaze with sponges, bryozoans, hydroids submarine was concealed inside for two weeks and miniscule common anemones. Soft, hard and undergoing repairs. gorgonian corals are also present. Short and long- tail stingrays glide near the bottom, along with the distinct eagle rays. FUN FACT ‹• ‘˜‡”‡† „› ƒ’–ƒ‹ ‘‘ ‘ ‘˜‡„‡” ͖͙ǡ ͕͚͛͝ǡ MIDDLE ARCH – Also on Tawhiti Rahi, the Middle Poor Knights Islands was supposedly named after Arch is shallower than Northern Arch, descending French toast, also known as poor knights’ pudding. The pohutukawa trees covered with red blossoms from 10 to 20 metres, but equally enthralling. Grey resembled his favourite dessert covered with jam. pillow sponges punctuate the reef, along with tiny

CLOCKWISE FROM

Scott Bennett OPPOSITE PAGE Poor Knights is home to a variety of nudibranch species, including ‰‘”‰‘‹ƒ•ǡƤ‰‡”•’‘‰‡•ǡ ”ƒ–‡”ƒ†‘”ƒ‰‡ OCULINA POINT – With a mild current running, the sweet ceratosoma, ‰‘ŽƟƒŽŽ•’‘‰‡•Ǥ‘”–Š‡”• ‘”’‹‘Ƥ•Š“—‹ Ž› divers will enjoy drifting along the wall while Ƥ‡ǦŽ‹‡† –ƒ„Œƒ become a photo favourite, often seen carrying tiny ‘„•‡”˜‹‰•’‡ Ž‡†‘”ƒ›•ǡƤ”‡„”‹ •–ƒ”Ƥ•Šǡ„ƒ†‡† and Denison’s Š‹– ŠŠ‹‡”•Ȃ„Ž—‡Ǧ†‘––”‹’Ž‡Ƥ•–Šƒ–Ž‹‡–‘’‡” Š‘ wrasse and leatherjackets. The leopard anemones dentrodoris –Š‡‹”Š‡ƒ†•Ǥ‡†’‹‰Ƥ•Š’”‘˜‡‡•’‡ ‹ƒŽŽ›‹“—‹•‹–‹˜‡ǡ are especially fascinating: With their delicate white while yellow morays peer from crevices. The presence bodies punctuated with brown spots, they can ABOVE ‘ˆ•ƒ†ƒ‰‡”ǯ•™”ƒ••‡ǡ„Žƒ ƒ‰‡ŽƤ•Šǡ†‡‘‹•‡ŽŽ‡•ƒ† disengage to be swept along by the current to The blue-eyed –”‹’Ž‡Ƥ ‹• ‘‡ ‘ˆ blue maomao will send your camera into overdrive, colonise new areas. Further on, an immense wall of New Zealand’s most and fortunate divers might encounter glimpses magenta jewel anemones makes an astonishing sight. endearing endemics

81 | SDAA FEATURE: MARINE SANCTUARIES AROUND THE WOR D

INDONESIA RAJA AMPAT By Glenn Yong RAJA AMPAT Glenn Yong

WHEN Famous for its rich biodiversity, Raja Ampat is from the air. Fortunately, the reef has recovered 2007 WHERE located on the northwest tip of the island of West ƒ•–‘—†‹‰Ž›™‡ŽŽǡ™‹–Šƒƒ‰‹Ƥ ‡– ‘”ƒŽ™ƒŽŽ–Šƒ– Indonesia Papua, in the heart of the Coral Triangle. The Nature hosts a great variety of reef sharks like the whitetip, WHAT Conservancy and Conservation International have blacktip, wobbegong, and epaulette shark. The A Network of Žƒ‹‡†–Šƒ–͙͛’‡” ‡–‘ˆ–Š‡™‘”Ž†ǯ•ƒ”‹‡•’‡ ‹‡• bombings also carved out hospitable overhangs Seven Marine Protected Areas Ž‹˜‡‹–Š‡™ƒ–‡”•‘ơƒŒƒ’ƒ–ǡƒ‹‰‹–‘‡‘ˆ–Š‡ where great schools of Spanish mackerel and other most biodiverse sites on Earth. marine life like turtles and sea snakes abound. In 2002, a political unit called the Raja Ampat Depths of up to 30 metres and strong currents Regency was formed and aided in creating the Raja ‡ƒ•‘‡‡š’‡”‹‡ ‡‹•”‡“—‹”‡†–‘‡Œ‘›–Š‹• Ampat Marine Protected Area, a network of seven site safely. ’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•Ǥ‘’”‘–‡ ––Š‡•‹–‡•ˆ”‘Š‹‰ŠǦ–”ƒƥ  tourism, a decision was reached to introduce marine SARDINES REEF – A large reef situated park permits. Raja Ampat has emerged as one of the in the middle of open ocean, this site is home to an must-visit destinations for recreational divers all over ‹ ”‡†‹„Ž‡—„‡”‘ˆ”‡‡ˆƤ•Š•— Šƒ•ˆ—•‹Ž‹‡”•ǡ –Š‡™‘”Ž†ǤŠ‡Š‡ƒŽ–Š›•Šƒ”ƒ†Ƥ•Š’‘’—Žƒ–‹‘• †ƒ•‡ŽƤ•Šǡ•—”‰‡‘Ƥ•Šǡƒ†•ƒ’’‡”•ǤŠ‡”‡‡ˆŽ‹ˆ‡ ABOVE have been attracting increasing numbers of tourists, attracts predators like barracudas and trevallies, The prop roots of mangrove forests which has helped support the local economy. •‘‡–‹‡•‡˜‡”‡‡ˆ•Šƒ”•ǡ’”‘˜‹†‹‰ƒ‡š ‹–‹‰ provide an important  ‡„”—ƒ”›͖͔͕͘ǡƒŒƒ’ƒ–™ƒ•†‡ Žƒ”‡†ƒ ‡š’‡”‹‡ ‡ˆ‘”†‹˜‡”•™Š‘˜‹•‹–Ǥ‹˜‡”•Šƒ˜‡–‘„‡ habitat for many •’‡ ‹‡•‘ˆ”‡‡ˆƤ•Š sanctuary for sharks, turtles, and manta rays. prepared for strong currents and limited visibility due With the sanctuary set in place, destructive practices to sand being kicked up at depths of 30 metres. OPPOSITE PAGE TOP •— Šƒ•”‡‡ˆ„‘„‹‰ƒ†–Š‡ƒ“—ƒ”‹—Ƥ•Š–”ƒ†‡ƒ”‡ Raja Ampat’s healthy now banned, and scientists are constantly discovering CAPE KRI – One of Raja Ampat’s most famous reefs support huge new species. †‹˜‡•‹–‡•ǡƒ’‡”‹‘ơ‡”•†‹˜‡”•ƒ‹ ”‡†‹„Ž‡—„‡” • Š‘‘Ž•‘ˆƤ•Šǡ•— Š as bigeye scads ‘ˆƤ•Š•’‡ ‹‡•Ǥ•–‡‡’•Ž‘’‡‘ˆŠƒ”†ƒ†•‘ˆ– ‘”ƒŽ• ǧ Š‘—•‡•›”‹ƒ†”‡‡ˆƤ•Šǡ™Š‹ Šƒ––”ƒ –• Š‘‘Ž• MIKE’S POINT – This island in the middle of the of predators such as dogtooth tuna, barracudas, OPPOSITE PAGE BOTTOM Dampier Strait has an incredibly interesting and trevallies, and many reef sharks. Opportunities Sea fans are one —‡š’‡ –‡†„ƒ •–‘”›Ǥ—”‹‰‘”Ž†ƒ” ǡ–Š‡ for wide-angle photography are plenty, since of the most common soft US Air heavily bombed the island because of huge schools are very common. The site reaches up to corals found here its remarkable resemblance to a Japanese warship ͖͙‡–”‡•†‡‡’ƒ†Šƒ••–”‘‰ —””‡–•ƒ––‹‡•Ǥ

82 | SDAA ASIA Glenn Yong Glenn Yong

83 | SDAA Markus Roth Patricia “PJ” Jordan

WHEN mammals that can be found in the park include 1991 WHERE dugongs, spinner dolphins and pods of pilot whales. Indonesia By Sarah Wormald Since the creation of the marine park, a number WHAT of initiatives have contributed to its ongoing success and Marine National Park health. A successful turtle egg hatchery has contributed —ƒ‡ ƒ”‹‡ ƒ” ‹ ‘”’‘”ƒ–‡• –Š‡ Ƥ˜‡ ‹•Žƒ†• ‘ˆ •‹‰‹Ƥ ƒ–Ž› –‘ –Š‡ ‰”‡‡ –—”–Ž‡ ’‘’—Žƒ–‹‘ǡ ƒ† –Š‡ Bunaken, Manado Tua, Nain, Siladen and Montehage, issuance of marine park tags has provided funding for covering over 890 square kilometres of which only ’ƒ–”‘Ž• –‘ ‡•—”‡ –Šƒ– ƒŽŽ Ƥ•Š‹‰ ‹• ‘ơ –Š‡ ”‡‡ˆǤ three percent is terrestrial. The park provides habitat to over 390 species of ǧ corals as well as areas of seagrass plains, coral reefs,  ȍ͕ǡ ͖  ͗Ȏ – These three sites feature TOP mangroves and other coastal ecosystems. It is also huge coral walls and are Bunaken’s best-known sites. • Š‘‘Ž‘ˆ„ƒ–Ƥ•Š swim around a home to a thriving population of green turtles. ‘—ǯŽŽ Ƥ† –—”–Ž‡• ‹ †”‘˜‡• ƒ† ƒ ”‘ ƒ”‹‡ Ž‹ˆ‡ –‘ †‹˜‡”ǤŠ‡•‡Ƥ•Šƒ”‡ Turtles are not the only highlight of this incredible keep even the most avid underwater photographer common around reefs and shipwrecks region. The waters around the islands are over 1,000 •ƒ–‹•Ƥ‡†Ǥ ‘‘ ‘—– ˆ‘” ’›‰› •‡ƒŠ‘”•‡• ‘ –Š‡ ˆƒ•ǡ metres deep in places, and these deep waters squat lobsters on the barrel sponges, and don’t be ABOVE Anthias come in form part of the migratory path for sperm whales, surprised if you spot an eagle ray or reef shark out in the orange, yellow which can seasonally be seen basking at the surface blue. Safety stops at these sites are amid a cloud and pink, and are a dazzling sight when (best time for sightings are between March and ‘ˆ • Š‘‘Ž‹‰ ’›”ƒ‹† „—––‡”ƪ›Ƥ•Š ƒ† Š‘”†‡• ‘ˆ seen in large numbers April, August and September). Other marine ”‡†–‘‘–Š –”‹‰‰‡”Ƥ•ŠǤ

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SILADEN JETTY – Another phenomenal wall dive Ž‘ ƒ–‡†‘ơ–Š‡•‘—–Š™‡•– ‘”‡”‘ˆ‹Žƒ†‡ •Žƒ†ǡ this dive site boasts stunning clear water shallows, abundant healthy coral, and a multitude of caverns, BUNAKEN ‘˜‡”Šƒ‰•ƒ†”‡ ‡••‡•ǡ™Š‹ Šƒ‡‡š ‡ŽŽ‡– habitats for the abundant critter life that reside Š‡”‡Ǥ–Š‡™ƒŽŽǡ• ‘”’‹‘Ƥ•ŠŽƒ› ƒ‘—ƪƒ‰‡† against the corals, ostentatious nudibranchs perch on ledges, spider crabs blend into fans, orangutan crabs burrow into bubble corals, thorny can be found in the many recesses, and green turtles and sharks are also frequent visitors. Amongst the critter Ž‹ˆ‡ǡ”‡‡ˆƤ•ŠƒŽ•‘ƪ‘—”‹•ŠŠ‡”‡Ǣ’ƒ””‘–Ƥ•Šǡ•™‡‡–Ž‹’•ǡ INDONESIA –”‹‰‰‡”Ƥ•Šƒ†•ƒ’’‡”•ƒŽŽƒ††–‘–Š‡„Ž‡†Ǥ

POOPOH – Located in the southern section ‘ˆ–Š‡’ƒ”‹•‘‘’‘ŠȂƒ•ƒŽŽ ‘ƒ•–ƒŽƤ•Š‹‰ village. In front of this village there is incredible . The black sandy slope is partially covered in seagrass and home to numerous •’‡ ‹‡•‘ˆˆ”‘‰Ƥ•Šǡ‹‹ ‘ –‘’—•ǡ•‡ƒŠ‘”•‡•ǡ ‰Š‘•–’‹’‡Ƥ•Šǡ —––Ž‡Ƥ•Šǡƒ†–Š‡Ž‹•–‰‘‡•‘ǤŠ‹•‹• LEFT also one of the best dive sites for spotting dugongs. Bunaken Marine Park Towards the end of the slope there is a mini-wall has healthy reefs with a high density and which is draped in colourful soft corals and home to variety of soft coral ƒŠ—‰‡ ‘ ‡–”ƒ–‹‘‘ˆ”‡‡ˆƤ•ŠǤ Edwin van der Sander species FEATURE: MARINE SANCTUARIES AROUND THE WORLD

KOMODO Molo Straits. Between the months of March and By Ombak Biru, Aggressor ‘˜‡„‡”ǡ–Š‡ Ž‡ƒ”™ƒ”™ƒ–‡”•ƪ‘™‹‰ˆ”‘–Š‡ Banda and Flores Seas wash over the pristine hard coral gardens and seamounts in the north while in the south, deep cold water current from the Indian Ocean collides with the continental shelf causing that produce a vast plankton banquet for the marine life here. Between the months of December and February, these water conditions are reversed, with warm blue water lighting up the south while colder, greener conditions are evident on the northern sites. Komodo is justly famous for its high-energy adrenaline-pumping dives. The gusting currents that surge and swirl through the deep channels around the seamounts between Komodo, Padar and Rinca islands are the key to the park’s wonderful marine life. These immense water movements produce such a wild variety of conditions that there is something Š‡”‡ˆ‘”‡˜‡”›„‘†›Ǥ ”‡ƒ–˜‹•‹„‹Ž‹–›ǡƒ••‹˜‡ Ž‹ơ•‘ˆ black basalt, sheer walls and dazzling coral gardens all ‘„‹‡–‘Š‘—•‡‘‡‘ˆ–Š‡‘•–’”‘Ž‹Ƥ ƒ††‹˜‡”•‡ undersea ecosystems on Earth.

ENTER THE DRAGON ƒ‰‹‡ƒ͕͙͔Ǧ‹Ž‘‰”ƒǡ–Š”‡‡Ǧ‡–”‡ǦŽ‘‰ǡƒ”‘—” clad monster with serrated teeth set in immensely powerful jaws. Four sets of razor sharp claws line its feet, and a thick strong tail capable of knocking a full grown man to the ground swishes gracefully along –Š‡ƪ‘‘”ǤŠ‹•‹•–Š‡ƒ‰‹Ƥ ‡–‘‘†‘†”ƒ‰‘Ǥ ƒ’ƒ„Ž‡‘ˆ‹Œ‡ –‹‰–‘š‹ •ƒŽ‹˜ƒ‹–‘‹–•˜‹ –‹•ǡ‹–Ž‹˜‡• Shutterstock on the islands of Komodo and Rinca, and is found ‘™Š‡”‡‡Ž•‡‹–Š‡™‘”Ž†Ǥš’‡†‹–‹‘•–‘‡‡––Š‹• fearsome animal are regularly conducted, and visitors WHEN ‘‘†‘ ƒ–‹‘ƒŽ ƒ” ‹• Ž‘ ƒ–‡† •‘‡ ͖͙͔ ƒ—–‹ ƒŽ often have hair-raising opportunities to get up close 1980 WHERE miles east of Bali, deep in the Indonesian archipelago and personal with the dragons. Indonesia between the islands of Sumbawa and Flores. WHAT Encompassing 1,817 square kilometres and comprisingg UNESCO World the three main islands, Komodo, Rinca and Padar Heritage Site as well as many other smaller islets and rocky sea mountains, the park is considered to be one of the INDONESIA ‘•– ‡š ‹–‹‰ ƒ–—”ƒŽ ™‘”Ž† ƒ†˜‡–—”‡ †‡•–‹ƒ–‹‘• ‘ –Š‡ ’Žƒ‡–Ǥ –”‡’‹† –”ƒ˜‡ŽŽ‡”• Š‡”‡ ƒ ‡š’‡”‹‡ ‡ KOMODO one of the richest marine environments in the world, while also meeting the ferocious komodo dragon. Located in the middle of the Coral Triangle, the ’ƒ” ‹• ’ƒ”– ‘ˆ –Š‡ †‘‡•‹ƒ Š”‘—‰Šƪ‘™ Ȃ ƒ important that carries water from the ƒ ‹Ƥ –‘ –Š‡ †‹ƒ  ‡ƒǤ • ƒ ”‡•—Ž–ǡ –Š‡ ƒ”‹‡ Žƒ†• ƒ’‡ ‘ˆ ‘”–Š ‘‘†‘ ‹• ˜ƒ•–Ž› †‹ơ‡”‡– ˆ”‘ the south. The spectacular seascape is comprised mainly of volcanic seamounts, pinnacles, walls and canyons as well as fringing reefs, coral gardens, ABOVE A manta ray passes mangrove bays and sandy slopes; creating an overhead in the —ƒ– Š‡† ˜ƒ”‹‡–› ‘ˆ ˜‡”› †‹ơ‡”‡– ƒ† †‹•–‹ –‹˜‡ waters of Komodo dive environments. RIGHT A Komodo dragon AN UNDERWATER DICHOTOMY strikes a pose The Flores Sea is to the north while the Indian Ocean while basking in the sun lies to the south, connected by the Sape, Linta and Shutterstock

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WAKATOBI INDONESIA By Karen Stearns, Wakatobi

ƒƒ–‘„‹ƒ–‹‘ƒŽƒ”‡ ‘’ƒ••‡•ƒ‡š’ƒ•‹˜‡ WHEN 1996 13,900 square kilometres of the Tukang Besi island WHERE group. Thanks to the positive results of Wakatobi Indonesia Resort’s Collaborative Reef Conservation Program, WHAT –Š‡ †‘‡•‹ƒ‰‘˜‡”‡–‡š’ƒ†‡†–Š‡ƒ”‡ƒ National Park, UNESCO WAKATOBI managed by the resort to what we see today. World Heritage Site UNESCO has not only listed the park as a World Heritage Site, but also added it to the World Network of Biosphere Reserves. Over the past 20 years, observers have †‘ —‡–‡†•‹‰‹Ƥ ƒ–‹’”‘˜‡‡–•‹–Š‡“—ƒŽ‹–› of the reefs and seagrass beds surrounding Wakatobi Resort. Fish counts are up, and turtle populations have increased. Among the tiny treasures that hide in plain sight are pygmy seahorses. Four of the seven known species of pygmies can be found right on the resort’s house reef. It takes a keen eye to spot these tiny creatures, which can range from the Ž‡‰–Š‘ˆƒƤ‰‡”ƒ‹Ž†‘™–‘ƒ•‹œ‡‘ˆƒ‡”‡‰”ƒ‹ of rice. To make the game of hide-and-seek even Wakatobi ‘”‡ ŠƒŽŽ‡‰‹‰ǡ’›‰‹‡•‘ˆ–‡ƒ†ƒ’––‡š–—”‡• ƒ† colours that match that of the gorgonian corals where –Š‡›Ƥ†•Š‡Ž–‡”Ǥ ‘”–—ƒ–‡Ž›ǡƒƒ–‘„‹ǯ•†‹˜‡‰—‹†‡• ǧ ƒ”‡‡š’‡”–•‡ƒŠ‘”•‡•’‘––‡”•ǡƒ†–Š‡›ƒ”‡—•—ƒŽŽ› ROMA – A visit to dive sites such as Roma showcase able to guide guests to just the right sea fan, and –Š‡ „”‘ƒ†‡” „‡‡Ƥ–• ‘ˆ ƒƒ–‘„‹ǯ• ‘•‡”˜ƒ–‹‘ point out the well-hidden residents. ‡ơ‘”–•Ǥ ’‘ †‡• ‡–ǡ †‹˜‡”• ƒ”‡ ‘ˆ–‡ ‹‡”•‡† ‹ Žƒ”‰‡ • Š‘‘Ž• ‘ˆ „Žƒ Ƥ ƒ† „‹‰‡›‡ „ƒ””ƒ —†ƒǡ ‘” clouds of snapper and jack crevalle. A ride line leads downward. Around the 18-metre mark, the site’s ’”‘Ž‹Ƥ ‘”ƒŽ ‘Ž‘‹‡• •Šƒ”‡ •’ƒ ‡ ™‹–Š ƒ ‰”‘˜‡ ‘ˆ Žƒ”‰‡ „ƒ””‡Ž •’‘‰‡•Ǥ – ͖͙ ‡–”‡•ǡ ‘ƒǯ• •‹‰ƒ–—”‡ feature comes into view. Spreading over the slope is ƒ Žƒ”‰‡ǡ ‹” —Žƒ” ‘Ž‘› ‘ˆ –—”„‹ƒ”‹ƒ ‘”ƒŽǡ •‘‡ •‹š metres across. When seen from above, the sculpted leaf-like folds of the formation combine to create the ‹’”‡••‹‘ ‘ˆ ƒ ‰‹ƒ– ”‘•‡ ƪ‘™‡”Ǥ

Over the past 20 years, observers have documented VLJQL¿FDQWLPSURYHPHQWVLQ the quality of the reefs and seagrass beds surrounding Wakatobi Resort

Other dive sites yield equally inspiring rewards. There are walls covered in dense growths of multi- ABOVE hued sea fans, pinnacles surrounded by kaleidoscopic The tiny Bargibant’s seahorse is a classic swarms of anthias, and hard-coral gardens that Wakatobi resident cascade over the edge of precipitous walls. It is • ‡‡•Ž‹‡–Š‡•‡–Šƒ––”—Ž›‡’Šƒ•‹•‡–Š‡„‡‡Ƥ–• LEFT of Wakatobi’s commitment to protecting one of the A large, circular colony

Wakatobi of turbinaria coral world’s most spectacular underwater environments. at the Roma dive site

87 | SDAA FEATURE: MARINE SANCTUARIES AROUND THE WORLD Jonathan Ternoy

TUBBATAHA REEFS By Jonathan Ternoy TUBBATAHA REEFS PHILIPPINES WHEN Located in the middle of the Sulu Sea, Tubbataha 1988 WHERE Reefs is made up of three atolls and is home to 360 Philippines ‘”ƒŽ•’‡ ‹‡•ǡ͚͔͔•’‡ ‹‡•‘ˆƤ•Šǡƒ†͕͝•’‡ ‹‡•‘ˆ WHAT rays and sharks. Far from civilisation, the protected Natural Park and area can only be accessed by and is open UNESCO World Heritage Site four months a year, from mid-March to mid-June. Far-reaching 100-metre walls are covered with ǧ life – sea fans, giant gorgonians, barrel sponges and Š‡”‡ƒ”‡ƒ„‘—–͖͔†‹ơ‡”‡–†‹˜‡•‹–‡•–‘‡š’Ž‘”‡ǡ soft coral thrive in abundance, while sharks and rays but the most popular are Shark Airport, Black Rock cruise by. Schools of hammerheads, silky sharks, and the crack of Delsan Wreck for pelagic action, whale sharks, and even tiger sharks are common healthy reefs, and light current. Terrace is famous visitors of the reefs, while cleaning stations are often for its hard corals and shallow plateau, while Sea Fan host to manta rays and silvertips. Alley boasts giant gorgonians and colourful Stunning soft and hard coral gardens can be sea fans. Ko-Ok is where you can encounter schools ˆ‘—† ͕͙ ‡–”‡• †‡‡’ǡ –‡‡‹‰ ™‹–Š Ž‹ˆ‡ •— Š ƒ• of hammerhead sharks in the mystic blue water. ABOVE schools of jacks, barracudas, snappers, sweetlips, Jessie Beazley is a smaller north atoll with a A turtle at one of the Shark Airport rainbow runners, turtles, Napoleon wrasses, unique coral formation, and is known for its cleaning stations rays and reef sharks. —‡š’‡ –‡†•—”’”‹•‡•Ǥ

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critters both big and small. From seahorses, mantis WHEN 1982 SIMILAN AND •Š”‹’•ƒ†—†‹„”ƒ Š•–‘™ŠƒŽ‡•Šƒ”•ǡ„ƒ–Ƥ•Š WHERE and fusiliers, there is a little something for every Thailand SURIN ISLANDS kind of ocean lover. Around the most famous WHAT By Lia Barrett ‘ˆ–Š‡•‹–‡•ǡ‹ Š‡Ž‹‡—‘ ǡ›‘—™‹ŽŽƤ†„ƒ‹–Ƥ•Š National Park and ASEAN congregating around the reef, as hunting trevally Heritage Park and other predators attack in unison. Schools of ơ–Š‡‡•–‘ƒ•–‘ˆŠƒ‹Žƒ†Ž‹‡•ƒ Šƒ‹‘ˆ•ƒŽŽǡ chevron barracuda patrol the perimeter of this idyllic islands called the Similan and Surin Islands. horseshoe-like rock, and purple and red soft corals ƒŽŽ‹•‹œ‡ǡ›‡–’Ž‡–‹ˆ—Ž‹ƪ‘”ƒƒ†ˆƒ—ƒ„‘–Š‘ form a brilliant carpet over the entire surface area, land and in its surrounding waters, these national ‘’‡–‹‰ˆ‘”•’ƒ ‡™‹–Šƒ‡‘‡•ƤŽŽ‡†™‹–Š natural treasures have been under protection as Ž‘™Ƥ•ŠǤ†‹ˆ›‘—Ž‹‡–—”–Ž‡•ǡŠ‡ƒ†–‘Š”‹•–ƒ• marine parks since the early 1980s. Point and hang out in the shallow hard coral gardens The park is closed during the monsoon season ˆ‘”ƒ„‘—–Ƥ˜‡‹—–‡•ǡƒ†›‘—ƒ”‡ ˆ”‘ƒ›–Š”‘—‰Š –‘„‡”ǡƒ†‘ƥ ‹ƒŽ•ƒŽ•‘ Ž‘•‡ sure to spot a hawksbill munching away. ‘ơ•’‡ ‹Ƥ ‹•Žƒ†•ˆ‘”†‹˜‹‰ƒ†˜‹•‹–ƒ–‹‘–Šƒ– But as with any marine park, it is the they feel are vulnerable or need to be left alone for duty of the dive centre as responsible leaders ”‡‰‡‡”ƒ–‹‘Ǥ‡”Šƒ’•–Š‡„‹‰‰‡•–ƒ†‘•–„‡‡Ƥ ‹ƒŽ and the divers as adherent visitors to be compliant job is the patrolling and regulation of sport and with the rules and values. The underwater world is ‘‡” ‹ƒŽƤ•Š‹‰ǡ™Š‹ ŠŠƒ˜‡”ƒ˜‹•Š‡†‡‹‰Š„‘—”‹‰ tough and resilient, but it can only withstand so ™ƒ–‡”•™‹–Š–”ƒ™Ž‹‰ƒ††›ƒ‹–‡Ƥ•Š‹‰Ǥ much chaos. And so if you visit this beautiful The is made up of nine islands. sanctuary in the “Land of Smiles”, make sure Heading north from Island #9 (yes, they are named ›‘—™ƒ– Š›‘—”Ƥ•ƒ”‘—†–Š‡Šƒ”† ‘”ƒŽ•–Šƒ– „›—„‡”•Ȍǡ›‘—Ƥ†‘Š‘ǡ‘Šƒ Šƒ‹ǡ‹ Š‡Ž‹‡— have been regenerating since the tsunami and Rock (not an island) and the Surin Islands. Comprised subsequent bleaching in 2010, know that there of sloping reef with hard coral gardens, large boulders are more seahorses in the world to photograph than that have been smoothed over by currents and large the two at Richelieu Rock, and make sure “bommie” rock formations dripping with soft coral, you enjoy those beautiful sea fans at Koh Tachai. the diverse topography makes each dive site unique Give your marine park fees graciously knowing and varied. that without them, these glorious fans, corals BELOW The statue of Anita, ‘–‘Ž›ƒ”‡†‹˜‡”•†”ƒ™–‘–Š‡ƪ—ơ›ǡ ‘Ž‘—”ˆ—Ž and critters would perhaps be the victims of nets, the stone mermaid sea fans and the winding swim-throughs, but also to anchors and other human activity. of the Similans

THAILAND

SIMILAN AND SURIN ISLANDS Lia Barrett

89 | SDAA Joseph Tepper AMERICAS

ECUADOR

GALÁPAGOS

GALÁPAGOS By Joseph Tepper

Ž—‰‘—–‹–‘–Š‡‹††Ž‡‘ˆ–Š‡ƒ ‹Ƥ Ȃ‘ơ–Š‡ ‘ƒ•– of Ecuador – the Galápagos Islands are a beacon of life in an endless blue desert. Thousands of hammerheads school in the warm waters around Darwin Island; „—•Ǧ•‹œ‡†™ŠƒŽ‡•Šƒ”•ƤŽ–‡”ˆ‡‡†‹–Š‡—–”‹‡–Ǧ†‡•‡ deep ocean upwellings; penguins swim in the cooler waters to the south; and species found nowhere else thrive. The celebration of the Galápagos’ unique environment both above and below the waves dates back to the days of Darwin. But even after nearly 200 years of love from biologists and divers alike, the Galápagos Islands’ survival as a meticulously maintained memorial to evolution remains uncertain.

DARWINIAN ORIGINS It’s a real shame Darwin didn’t have some scuba gear –‘‡š’Ž‘”‡–Š‡ ƒŽž’ƒ‰‘•„‡Ž‘™–Š‡™ƒ˜‡•Ǥ‡•’‹–‡ the lack in technology, the naturalist still recognised

Š‘™‡š–”ƒ‘”†‹ƒ”›–Š‡—†‡”™ƒ–‡”‡˜‹”‘‡–‹•Ǥ Joseph Tepper Joseph Tepper But it wasn’t until 1998 that Ecuador created the ƒŽž’ƒ‰‘•ƒ”‹‡‡•‡”˜‡Ȃ‘”‡–Šƒ͙͗›‡ƒ”•ƒˆ–‡” the creation of the terrestrial national park. Casting a wide net of protection surrounding ͚͘‹Ž‘‡–”‡•‘ˆ™ƒ–‡”ƒ”‘—†–Š‡‹•Žƒ†•ǯ ‘ƒ•–•ǡ the marine reserve walks a delicate balance between protecting the vulnerable ecosystem and managing the use of natural resources by local residents. While ‘‡” ‹ƒŽƤ•Š‹‰™ƒ•„ƒ‡†ǡ•ƒŽŽǦ• ƒŽ‡Ƥ•Š‹‰ remains legal. ‹–Š ‘ ‡”•‘ˆ‘˜‡”Ƥ•Š‹‰ǡ–Š‡‰‘˜‡”‡– ǧ WHEN 1998 Šƒ•”‡ ‡–Ž›‡š’ƒ†‡†‘Ǧ–ƒ‡œ‘‡•ƒ”‘—†–Š‡ THE BOILER – Perhaps the top dive site in the world, WHERE ‹•Žƒ†•‘ˆ‘Žˆƒ†ƒ”™‹ȂŽ‘ ƒŽǡƒ”–‹•ƒƒŽƤ•Š‹‰‹• –Š‹• —””‡–Ǧ ”ƒ‡†Ǧ—’†‹˜‡‘ơ‡”•—’–Š‡„‡•––Š‡ Ecuador now not allowed. Even with such steps, illegal shark ƒŽž’ƒ‰‘•Šƒ•–‘‘ơ‡”ǣŠƒ‡”Š‡ƒ†•Šƒ”•ǡ™ŠƒŽ‡ WHAT Ƥ•Š‹‰ ‘–‹—‡•™‹–Š‹–Š‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒƒ†–Š‡ •Šƒ”•ǡ‰”‡‡•‡ƒ–—”–Ž‡•ǡ•‡ƒŽ‹‘•ǡƒ†• Š‘‘Ž‹‰Ƥ•ŠǤ Marine Reserve government must remain vigilant against threats to Hook into a massive boulder and watch the spectacle the health of the marine ecosystem. unfold as hundreds of hammerheads cruise overhead. Š‡™‘”Ž†ǯ•Žƒ”‰‡•–Ƥ•ŠȂ–Š‡™ŠƒŽ‡•Šƒ”Ȃ ‘‡•‹ OPPOSITE PAGE A BOUNTY OF LIFE bunches in the very same waters. A trio of eagle rays Three major current systems and over 900 kilometres swims by on a dive in the Galápagos Islands from the mainland, underwater life in the Galápagos  ȍ  Ȏ– Another fantastic has found a way to survive against all odds. Flightless sight for seeing scalloped hammerheads, Landslide TOP birds cruise underwater to eat. Iguanas have taken to also delivers close-up encounters with eagle rays. Galápagos penguins are one of the world’s the sea and evolved to forage underwater by holding smallest and live –Š‡‹”„”‡ƒ–Šˆ‘”—’–‘͔͗‹—–‡•Ǥ†‘ ‡Ǧ–‹›Ƥ•Š PUNTA VICENTE ROCA – Perhaps the most unique closest to the equator •’‡ ‹‡•Šƒ˜‡‰”‘™–‘ƒ‡šŠ‘”„‹–ƒ–•‹œ‡„‡ ƒ—•‡ †‹˜‡–Š‡ ƒŽž’ƒ‰‘•Šƒ•–‘‘ơ‡”ǡ—–ƒ‹ ‡–‡‘ ƒ of the nutrient-rich water. Let’s hope the Galápagos’ is the best spot to see mola molas, manta rays, ABOVE underwater realm is as special 200 years from now as and tons of baitballs. Lucky divers will also see The marine iguana feeds on algae ‹–™ƒ•͖͔͔›‡ƒ”•ƒ‰‘—’‘ƒ”™‹ǯ•Ƥ”•–•‹‰Š–Ǥ iguanas and penguins. underwater

91 | SDAA FEATURE: MARINE SANCTUARIES AROUND THE WORLD

REVILLAGIGEDO ARCHIPELAGO Images by Christian Vizl

The Revillagigedo Archipelago is a group of four volcanic islands – Socorro, San Benedicto, Roca ƒ”–‹†ƒǡƒ†Žƒ”‹×Ȃƒ„‘—–͙͔͜‹Ž‘‡–”‡•™‡•– ‘ˆƒœƒ‹ŽŽ‘ǡ‡š‹ ‘Ǥ –™ƒ•Ƥ”•–†‹• ‘˜‡”‡†‹ –Š‡͕͙͔͔•„›’ƒ‹•Š‡š’Ž‘”‡”•ǡƒ†•—„•‡“—‡–Ž› †‡ Žƒ”‡†ƒ„‹‘•’Š‡”‡”‡•‡”˜‡„›–Š‡‡š‹ ƒ ‰‘˜‡”‡–‹͕͘͝͝–‘’”‘–‡ –‹–•‡†‡‹ •’‡ ‹‡•Ǥ After marine research revealed that the archipelago hosts one of the world’s largest aggregations of sharks, manta rays, whales and –—”–Ž‡•ǡ ƒ—–Š‘”‹–‹‡• ‡š’ƒ†‡† ‹– –‘ ƒ ˆ—ŽŽƒ”‹‡ ”‡•‡”˜‡ ‹ ͖͔͕͛Ǥ – ƒŽ‘•– ͕͙͔ǡ͔͔͔ •“—ƒ”‡ kilometres, it is the largest marine protected area in North America. Christian Vizl ǧ THE BOILER – Although it is one of the region’s ‘•– ˆƒ‘—• †‹˜‡ •‹–‡•ǡ –Š‹• •’‘– ‘ơ ƒ‡‡†‹ –‘‹• ”‡ ‘‡†‡† ‘Ž› ˆ‘” ‘”‡ ‡š’‡”‹‡ ‡††‹˜‡”•ǤŠ‡ ‘‹Ž‡” ‹• ƒ ‰—›‘–ǡ ‘” –ƒ„Ž‡‘—–ǡ –Šƒ–•–ƒ”–•͙͗‡–”‡• underwater and stretches up to the surface. One can ‡š’Ž‘”‡ –Š‡ •‹–‡ǯ• ‡š–‡•‹˜‡ ‘”ƒŽ ™ƒŽŽ•–‡‡‹‰™‹–Š ƒ Š—‰‡ ˜ƒ”‹‡–› ‘ˆ Ƥ•Š ƒ† ”‡•‹†‡– ”‡‡ˆ•Šƒ”••— Šƒ• ™Š‹–‡–‹’• ƒ† •‹Ž› •Šƒ”•Ǥ ‹˜‡”• ƒƒŽ•‘‡š’‡ ––‘ •‡‡ ‰‹ƒ– ƒ–ƒ ”ƒ›• „‡‹‰ Ž‡ƒ‡† „›”‡‡ˆƤ•ŠǤ

ROCA PARTIDA Ȃ – Œ—•– ͕Ǥ͘ Š‡ –ƒ”‡•ǡ‘ ƒƒ”–‹†ƒ is the smallest of the four islands. What it lacks in landmass, it makes up for in marine life – the entire •‹–‡ ‹• –‡‡‹‰ ™‹–Š Ƥ•Šǡ •Šƒ”•ǡ ƒ† ƒ–ƒ”ƒ›•Ǥ ‡–™‡‡ ͕͔ –‘ ͕͙ ‡–”‡•ǡ †‹˜‡”• ƒ› ƒ– Š™Š‹–‡–‹’ sharks taking a nap amidst small caves along the rock. —”–Š‡” †‘™ –‘ ͔͘ ‡–”‡•ǡ • Š‘‘Ž• ‘ˆŠƒ‡”Š‡ƒ† sharks congregate, while curious manta rays pass by. Lucky divers may also spot whale sharks and Christian Vizl humpback whales on their migratory trip.

PUNTA TOSCA – This site lies west of and is the best site for spotting humpback whales. WHEN – †‡’–Š• ‘ˆ —’ –‘ ͔͘ ‡–”‡•ǡ †‹˜‡”• ™‹ŽŽ•‡‡•‹Ž›ƒ† 1994 WHERE Galápagos sharks, and even the occasional . Mexico Bottlenose dolphins frequent the area as well, and are WHAT ‡š–”‡‡Ž› —”‹‘—• ƒ† ‡ƒ‰‡” –‘ ‹–‡”ƒ –™‹–Š†‹˜‡”• Marine Reserve visiting the site. Meanwhile, the crevices of the site’s MEXICO coral reefs are full of giant lobsters, eels and other ˆƒ• ‹ƒ–‹‰ ”‡‡ˆ Ž‹ˆ‡Ǥ ‹•‹„‹Ž‹–› ‹• ‡š ‡ŽŽ‡–ǡƒ˜‡”ƒ‰‹‰ between 20 to 30 metres.

REVILLAGIGEDO ABOVE TOP ARCHIPELAGO A family of oceanic A giant oceanic bottlenose manta ray dolphins near the swimming just rocky bottom above a freediver

92 | SDAA AMERICAS

COCOS ISLAND By Wolfgang Poelzer

Between hammerhead schools and hundreds of reef •Šƒ”•Ȃ–Š‡”‡‘–‡ƒ–‹‘ƒŽ’ƒ”‹•Žƒ†‘ơ‘•–ƒ‹ ƒ COCOS ISLAND is a guarantee for spectacular shark dives. Together with the well-known Galápagos Islands and the Malpelo COSTA RICA dwarf archipelago, Cocos represents the third point WHEN 1978 ‘ˆ–Š‡Dz ƒ‹dz–”‹ƒ‰Ž‡‹–Š‡ƒ•–‡”ƒ ‹Ƥ Ǥ‘™Š‡”‡ WHERE else will you have a better chance of encountering Costa Rica large hammerhead schools and vast numbers of WHAT whitetip reef, Galápagos, silky, and even tiger sharks. National Park and UNESCO Marine biologist Dr. Randall Arauz discovered World Heritage Site that some tiger sharks spend up to nine months in Cocos Island before they disappear again in the vast ocean. These hikers have been known to travel for thousands of kilometres, but are capable of staying in one place for months if they like it. As pronounced omnivores, they will eat any prey that comes their way, and as a result, Cocos Island has seen fewer eagle rays and turtles, either from being preyed on or as a safety measure. On the other hand, hammerhead sharks have been tracked patrolling around the three islands – Galápagos, Malpelo and Cocos. Remarkably, they can cover the 800 kilometres between Cocos and Galápagos within two days! However, these animals have also been found swimming outside the protected areas to feed and mate, particularly along the mainland coast between Guatemala and northern Peru where some marked animals have been caught. The shallow water is host to dense mangrove populations that provide refuge for young hammerhead sharks in their Ƥ”•–›‡ƒ”Ǥƒ”‰‡—„‡”•‘ˆŠƒ‡”Š‡ƒ†•Šƒ”•Šƒ˜‡ ƒŽ•‘„‡‡ ƒ—‰Š–‹–Š‡ƒ•–‡”ƒ ‹Ƥ ǡ™Š‹ ŠŠƒ• led to the question: Is the national park actually Wolfgang Poelzer ‡ơ‡ –‹˜‡‹’”‘–‡ –‹‰–Š‡•‡˜‘›ƒ‰‹‰•Šƒ”•ǫ ǧ BAJO ALCYONE – Famous for its incredible •‡ƒ‘—––Šƒ–•–ƒ”–•ƒ–͖͙‡–”‡•ƒ†‡š–‡†•†‘™ –‘͔͘‡–”‡•ǡƒŒ‘Ž ›‘‡‹•ƒ ‘‰Ž‘‡”ƒ–‹‘‘ˆ hammerhead sharks, manta rays and mobula rays. Due to the strong currents, only advanced divers are allowed to attempt the site.

DIRTY ROCK – More accessible to new divers, Dirty Rock is a similar dive featuring pinnacles and boulders that create a protected channel. The rock, covered ‹„ƒ”„‡”Ƥ•Šǡ„”‡ƒ•–Š‡•—”ˆƒ ‡ƒ††”‘’•†‘™–‘ ͙͗‡–”‡•Ǥ—––Š‡ƒ‹ƒ––”ƒ –‹‘‹•–Š‡‹ ”‡†‹„Ž‡ number of hammerhead sharks that greet you as soon as you enter the water.

TOP RIGHT RIGHT A scalloped hammerhead A night dive reveals cruises through whitetip reef sharks Cocos Island’s waters •Ž‡‡’‹‰‘–Š‡•‡ƒƪ‘‘” Wolfgang Poelzer

93 | SDAA FEATURE: MARINE SANCTUARIES AROUND THE WORLD Barbara & Wolfgang Poelzer

COLOMBIA MALPELO By Barbara & Wolfgang Poelzer

WHEN Three of the best shark spots in the world are located 1995 ‘ơ–Š‡ ‘ƒ•–‘ˆ‡–”ƒŽƒ†‘—–Š‡”‹ ƒ‹–Š‡ WHERE MALPELO Colombia ‹††Ž‡‘ˆ–Š‡ƒ•–‡”ƒ ‹Ƥ ǤŠ‡Ž‡ƒ•–‘™‘ˆ WHAT these, the tiny Colombian island of Malpelo, together UNESCO World with the Galápagos and Cocos, form a “Golden ǧ Heritage Site ”‹ƒ‰Ž‡dzˆ‘”ƒŽŽ„‹‰Ƥ•Šˆƒ•Ǥ WASHING MACHINE – Comprised of several rocky The archipelago of Malpelo is located about •Š‘ƒŽ•–Šƒ–”‹•‡ƒ– •Žƒ ‹ ƒ”‘‘ơ‘‹„ƒǡ–Š‹••‹–‡–‡‡• ͚͙͔‹Ž‘‡–”‡••‘—–Š‡ƒ•–‘ˆ‘ ‘•ƒ†ƒ„‘—–͕ǡ͖͔͔ ™‹–Š• Š‘‘Ž•‘ˆ•—”‰‡‘Ƥ•Šǡ•’‹›ƒ ‡”‡Žǡƒ† kilometres northeast of Galápagos in the Eastern snappers, while colourful gorgonians, bright ƒ ‹Ƥ ǤƒŽ’‡Ž‘‹•–Š‡‘Ž›‹•Žƒ†‘ˆƒŽ’‡Ž‘‹†‰‡ǡ ›‡ŽŽ‘™Ǧ ”—•–‡†ƒ‡‘‡•ƒ†ˆ”‘‰Ƥ•ŠŽ‹––‡”–Š‡ a large underwater mountain range, that breaks the seabed. Groupers, morays, eagle rays, whitetip •—”ˆƒ ‡Ǥ –•ˆ‘‘–Š‹ŽŽ•†”‘’–‘ƒ„‘—–͘ǡ͔͔͔‡–”‡•†‡‡’ǡ reef sharks, hammerhead sharks and whale sharks are ™Š‡”‡—’–‘‡‹‰Š–†‹ơ‡”‡–‘ ‡ƒ —””‡–•‡‡– often encountered here, but beware of the during the year. The nutrient-rich water attracts large strong currents. numbers of ocean pelagics. Around the main island, a dozen small, rugged LA NEVERA – Spanish for “refrigerator”, La Navera rocky ridges with submerged steep walls and rocky ‹•ƒ”‘ ›•Ž‘’‡‘ơƒŽ’‡Ž‘ǯ•™‡•– ‘ƒ•–ǤŠ‡ƒ‡ •Ž‘’‡•Šƒ˜‡„‡ ‘‡‡š ‡ŽŽ‡–†‹˜‹‰•’‘–•Ǥ‹Ž› refers to the cold deep currents that often attract sharks, huge schools of scalloped hammerhead large schools of hammerhead sharks to two cleaning sharks, Galápagos sharks, whitetip reef sharks, whale stations at a depth of about 20 metres. In addition, sharks and the rare bumpytail ragged-tooth shark can many moray eels, groupers, eagle rays and Galápagos „‡ˆ‘—†ƒ–†‡’–Š•„‡Ž‘™͙͔‡–”‡•Ǥ sharks can be spotted here. With Malpelo being far from the mainland coast and surrounded by legal and illegal international ALTAR DE VIRGINIA – Schools of hammerhead Ƥ•Š‹‰ƪ‡‡–•ǡ’”‘–‡ –‹‰–Š‡•‡ƒ‹ƒŽ•‹•‹’‡”ƒ–‹˜‡Ǥ sharks sometimes congregate in the shallow waters For this purpose, a small Colombian military unit is of Altar de Virginia, a 12-metre-deep bay on the stationed on the barren main island. The unit has been east side of Malpelo. The cleaning stations also ABOVE Spotted mobolised several times in recent years, particularly attract eagle rays, barracudas, turtles and patrolling moray eels ƒ‰ƒ‹•–‹ŽŽ‡‰ƒŽŽ‘‰ǦŽ‹‡Ƥ•Š‡”‡Ǥ Galápagos sharks.

94 | SDAA AMERICAS

SAIPPAN SAIPAN NORTHERN MARIANAS By Brandi Mueller ISLANDS

This small green gem of an island, only 20 kilometres ǧ long by nine kilometres wide, has warm water, THE SHOAN MARU – A WWII thought WHEN 2000 ’‡”ˆ‡ – ˜‹•‹„‹Ž‹–›ǡ Ƥ‡Ž†• ‘ˆ Š‡ƒŽ–Š› Šƒ”† ‘”ƒŽ• ƒ† to be the Shoan Maru sits in only about 10 metres WHERE ’Ž‡–› ‘ˆ Ƥ•Š Ž‹ˆ‡Ǥ ‹–Š ƒ ‰”‘™‹‰ –‘—”‹•– ‹†—•–”›ǡ of crystal clear water with plenty of marine life Northern Marianas measures have been put in place to protect its land inhabiting it. The ship is very much destroyed, Islands and water resources by way of seven marine „—– • Š‘‘Ž• ‘ˆ •ƒ’’‡”ǡ ‰‘ƒ–Ƥ•Šǡ ƒ† •“—‹””‡ŽƤ•Š WHAT No-Take Marine reserves, two of which connect to land reserves. lurk in the shadows of broken and twisted metal. Protected Area Five areas are fully no-take zones and two are Underneath, at least half a dozen whitetip reef sharks •’‡ ‹‡•Ǧ•’‡ ‹Ƥ ”‡•‡”˜‡•Ǥ can be seen sitting in the sand. Saipan is a commonwealth of the United States along with Tinian, Rota, and eleven other islands often THE EMILY PLANE – Also in the MMCA is the Emily abbreviated as the CNMI. These islands, including plane which is in several pieces, lying in about 10 Guam, make up the Mariana Islands Archipelago and metres of water. The engines, still attached to the are the northernmost islands of Micronesia. propellers, stand out from the white sand thanks –‘ –Š‡ ‘”ƒŽǦ‡ ”—•–‡† ‡–ƒŽ ƒ† –Š‡ Ƥ•ŠǦ‡‰—Žˆ‡† MAÑAGAHA MARINE CONSERVATION AREA engine. The wings, which sit nearby, host a school ȍȎ ‘ˆ •“—‹””‡ŽƤ•Šǡ ƒŽ‘‰•‹†‡ ‘–Š‡” Ƥ•Š Ž‹ˆ‡ –Šƒ– Šƒ˜‡ The MMCA protects the Island of Mañagaha and inhabited the hollows of the broken airplane. –Š‡ ™ƒ–‡” ƒ”‘—† ‹–ǡ ‘˜‡”‹‰ ƒ„‘—– ͙͔ǡ͔͔͔ •“—ƒ”‡ kilometres on Saipan’s western barrier reef. Surveys Šƒ˜‡ •Š‘™ –Š‹• ƒ”‡ƒ Šƒ• ‘”‡ –Šƒ ͖͔͘ •’‡ ‹‡• ‘ˆ hard corals, 31 soft corals and sea fans, and more than  ǧ  ͕͔͔ •’‡ ‹‡• ‘ˆ Ƥ•Š ƒ† ‰”‡‡ •‡ƒ –—”–Ž‡•Ǥ Š‡ ‹•Žƒ† ƒ‹’ƒŠƒ•–™‘•ƒ –—ƒ”‹‡•–Šƒ–ƒ”‡•’‡ ‹‡•Ǧ•’‡ ‹Ƥ  is uninhabited but serves cultural and recreational and were created to help a species recover with the intent of opening it back up if recovery is made. purposes as it holds the remains of WWII wrecks that ”‡•– ‘ –Š‡ ‘ ‡ƒ ƪ‘‘”Ǥ Lau Lau Bay Sea Cucumber Sanctuary Š‹••ƒ –—ƒ”›’”‘–‡ –•–Š‡•—”ˆ”‡†Ƥ•Š•‡ƒ cucumber (Actinopyga mauritiana). The population was drastically decreased due to a commercial Ƥ•Š‡”›‘ƒ‹’ƒƒ†‘–ƒ‹–Š‡͕͔͝͝•Ǥ

Lighthouse Reef Trochus Sanctuary This sanctuary protects the topshell trochus (Trochus niloticus) which was harvested unrestrictedly in the late 1980s.

BIRD ISLAND SANCTUARY

ǧ WHEN 2001 THE GROTTO – A sunken pool with underwater WHERE passages that lead to the ocean, the Grotto is one Northern Marianas of the popular tourist destinations on Bird Island. Islands During low , tourists can walk right into WHAT No-Take Marine the Grotto, but if luck isn’t on your side, be Protected Area prepared to battle the rough waves that guard the entry point. If you manage to get past the waves, one giant stride into the open cavern would bring you straight down into the darkening cavern before three brilliant blue openings appear, leading to the open ocean. Stacks and layers of pink sea fans are all around, while „—––‡”ƪ›Ƥ•Šǡ ƒ‰‡ŽƤ•Š ƒ† ‡˜‡ –—”–Ž‡• ƒ „‡ LEFT The cockpit and spotted swimming around a mini-wall outside gun of the Brandi Mueller the Grotto. SDAA Emily plane

95 | SDAA Jürgen Freund FEATURE: THE UPS AND DOWNS OF MARINE PROTECTED AREAS THE UPS AND DOWNS OF MARINE PROTECTED AREAS ”‡ƒ”‹‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•ȋ•Ȍ”‡ƒŽŽ›ƒ•„‡‡Ƥ ‹ƒŽƒ•™‡–Š‹ǫ Mongabay gets to the truth with their examinationof the ‡ơ‡ –‹˜‡‡••‘ˆƒ”‹‡’”‘–‡ –‹‘• by Shreya Dasgupta, Mongabay

A humpback whale displaying tail slapping and breaching FEATURE: THE UPS AND DOWNS OF MARINE PROTECTED AREAS

Countries are now frenziedly creating more ƒ”‹‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•ǡ‹ ”‡ƒ•‹‰Ž›˜‡”› large ones, either out of genuine concern for marine life or to meet international –ƒ”‰‡–•Ǥ –Š‡‹†•–‘ˆ‹–ƒŽŽǡ–Š‡‡ƥ ƒ › ‘ˆ–Š‹• ‘•‡”˜ƒ–‹‘–‘‘Ž”‡ƒ‹•Š‡ƒ˜‹Ž› debated. Is establishing marine parks better ˆ‘”•’‡ ‹‡•ƒ†Šƒ„‹–ƒ–•–ŠƒŽ‡ƒ˜‹‰ƒ”‡ƒ• —’”‘–‡ –‡†ǫ‘ƒ”‹‡’ƒ”•‹’”‘˜‡ Ƥ•Š‡”‹‡•ƒ†–Š‡™‡ŽŽǦ„‡‹‰‘ˆƤ•Š‡”‹‡•Ǧ †‡’‡†‡– ‘—‹–‹‡•ǫ

If we conservationists and biologists do not think of the planet as one – earth and water – then I ask, who will? If we do not press for marine as well as terrestrial sanctuaries and for regulations over our marine activities, then I ask again, who will? Carleton Ray

LEFT Blue Maomao Scott Bennett at poor knights Islands

1962 1985 1992 2004 2010 PRESENT FIRST WORLD Number of marine RIO EARTH UNITED NATIONS CBD extended the According to the United CONFERENCE OF protected areas SUMMIT CONVENTION deadline to 2020 as Nations Protected Planet NATIONAL PARKS had risen to 430 Countries agreed to ON BIOLOGICAL –Š‡ ‘˜‡”ƒ‰‡™ƒ••–‹ŽŽ data repository, more Carleton Ray, a establish networks   ȍȎ below two percent –Šƒ͕͙ǡ͚͔͔ƒ”‹‡ marine biologist at of marine protected The world’s protected areas are in –Š‡‹˜‡”•‹–›‘ˆ areas as scientists ‰‘˜‡”‡–• ’Žƒ ‡ǡ ‘˜‡”‹‰‘”‡ Virgina, pleaded the ’”‘˜‡†–Šƒ–Ƥ•Š‹‰ committed to –Šƒ͖͙‹ŽŽ‹‘•“—ƒ”‡ cause of setting aside was causing the ‘•‡”˜‹‰ƒ–Ž‡ƒ•–͕͔ kilometres, or nearly “unmolested areas ™‘”Ž†ǯ•Ƥ•Š•–‘ • percent of coastal and •‡˜‡’‡” ‡–‘ˆ–Š‡ in the sea” to collapse ƒ”‹‡ƒ”‡ƒ•„›͖͔͕͖ Earth’s oceans

98 | SDAA AIMLESS AND INDEFINITE? Š‡„‘†›‘ˆ• ‹‡–‹Ƥ Ž‹–‡”ƒ–—”‡‘ƒ”‹‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•ƒ›„‡˜ƒ•–ǡ„—––Š‡“—ƒŽ‹–›‘ˆ–Š‡•–—†‹‡• ™‹–Š‹‹–‹•Š‹‰ŠŽ›˜ƒ”‹ƒ„Ž‡ƒ†”‹††Ž‡†™‹–Š‹ˆ‘”ƒ–‹‘‰ƒ’•Ǥ

they are created data from before MPAs MPAs with a. Was the marine protected area were established is similar unpro designed to protect a particular often unavailable tected areas as •’‡ ‹‡•ǫ ‘ ‹’”‘˜‡ Ƥ•Š ƒ– Š a. ‘•– •–—†‹‡• ‡ƒ•—”‡ ‡ơ‡ –• ‹ a control site ‹ ‡ƒ”„› Ƥ•Š‹‰ ‰”‘—†•ǫ a single season, year, or location ” –‘ ƒ––”ƒ – –‘—”‹•–•ǫ b. ‡•—Ž–• ƒ”‡ †‹ƥ —Ž– –‘ ‰‡‡”ƒŽ‹•‡ b. Š‹• ƒ‡• ‡˜ƒŽ—ƒ–‹‘ ‘ˆ ƒ ƒ”‹‡ and changes are hard to identify BELOW ’ƒ”ǯ• ‡ơ‡ –‹˜‡‡•• Šƒ”†ǡ ƒ† Ž‡ƒ†• A pair of Pontoh’s pygmy seahorses to unrealistic expectations found in Wakatobi National Park, Indonesia

Š‹•Žƒ ‘ˆ„ƒ•‡Ž‹‡†ƒ–ƒǡŽ‘‰Ǧ–‹‡Ǧ• ƒŽ‡ ‘™‡˜‡”ǡ–Š‡”‡ƒ”‡ƒ‰”‘™‹‰—„‡”‘ˆ BOTTOM information and good control sites can be a major ‡–ƒǦƒƒŽ›•‡•ƒ†•›•–‡ƒ–‹ ”‡˜‹‡™•Ǣ‘‰ƒ„ƒ›ǯ• A turtle on the reef of Bunaken ”‘ƒ†„Ž‘ –‘–‡ƒ•‹‰‘—––Š‡‡ơ‡ –•‘ˆƒ •ƒ’Ž‡‹ Ž—†‡†͕͔ǤŠ‡•‡†‹•–‹ŽŽƒ†‡š’Žƒ‹•‘‡ Marine Park, ˆ”‘‘–Š‡””‹˜ƒŽˆƒ –‘”•ǣ‡”‡–Š‡ Šƒ‰‡•‹Ƥ•Š of the broader trends associated with MPAs. Indonesia populations caused by the creation of the MPA or by ‘–Š‡”‘ ‡ƒ ‘†‹–‹‘•ǡƤ•Š‹‰’”‡••—”‡‘”–Š‡’ƒ”ǯ• Ž‘ ƒ–‹‘ǫˆ–Š‡•–—†‹‡•‘‰ƒ„ƒ›”‡˜‹‡™‡†ǡˆ‘” instance, only three studies accounted for multiple ƒŽ–‡”ƒ–‹˜‡‡š’Žƒƒ–‹‘•Ǥ Dz‘–‡‘—‰Š–Š‘—‰Š–‹•‰‹˜‡–‘–Š‡‘‹–‘”‹‰ design when [a] marine park is being established,” ƒ˜‹† ‹ŽŽǡƒƒ”‹‡”‡•‡ƒ” Š‡”ƒ– ‡‘”‰‡ƒ•‘ ‹˜‡”•‹–›ƒ†˜‹•‹–‹‰• Š‘Žƒ”ƒ––Š‡  ‘•‡”˜ƒ–‹‘ –‡”ƒ–‹‘ƒŽǡ–‘Ž†‘‰ƒ„ƒ›Ǥ DzŠ‡‰‘Ž†•–ƒ†ƒ”†™‘—Ž†„‡–‘ ‘†— –•—”˜‡›• both inside the marine protected area before it is established and in comparable unprotected sites, and then continuously monitor both sets of conditions ‘˜‡”–‹‡–‘•‡‡‹ˆ–Š‡ Šƒ‰‡•ƒ”‡ just because of the marine protected area, or something else.” —–ƒ Š‹‡˜‹‰–Š‹•‰‘Ž†•–ƒ†ƒ”†‹•–”‹ ›ǡ ƒ„„›Šƒ†‹ƒǡƒƒ”‹‡„‹‘Ž‘‰‹•–™‹–Š–Š‡‘”Ž†

Wide Fund for Nature (WWF), told Mongabay. Wakatobi Resort Take the ongoing monitoring programme at –Š‡‹”†ǯ• ‡ƒ†•‡ƒ• ƒ’‡‹‡•–ƒ’—ƒ’”‘˜‹ ‡ǡ †‘‡•‹ƒǤŠƒ†‹ƒǡ™Š‘•‡–‡ƒŠƒ•„‡‡•—”˜‡›‹‰ ƒ‡–™‘”‘ˆ͕͖—Ž–‹’Ž‡Ǧ—•‡•‹–Š‡•‡ƒ• ƒ’‡ǡ told Mongabay that selecting and then monitoring control sites is uncharted territory. “Nobody had done this before, so it wasn’t something that I could look at in other marine protected areas,” Ahmadia said. Dz‘— ƒ—•‡ƒŽŽ›‘—”ˆƒ –‘”•ƒ†‡˜‹”‘‡–ƒŽ indicators and social criteria to say these would be good control areas, but you can only guess what’ll be underwater,” she said. “Sometimes you go underwater and you think no, this is not a good reef to •—”˜‡›Ǥ”–Š‡”‡Šƒ˜‡„‡‡•‘‡†ƒ›• ™Š‡™‡™‡”‡•—”˜‡›‹‰•‹–‡•ƒ†–Š‡”‡‡ˆ•™‡”‡ dead. We spent two to three days searching for ‹–ƒ –”‡‡ˆ•„—–™‡ ‘—Ž†ǯ–Ƥ†ƒ›Ǥ –™ƒ•†‡Ƥ‹–‡Ž› a learning experience. But we were able to get enough control sites that it did work.” Hergen Spalink

99 | SDAA FEATURE: THE UPS AND DOWNS OF MARINE PROTECTED AREAS

MARINE PROTECTED AREAS CAN BENEFIT MARINE LIFE, BUT IMPACTS ARE UNEVEN

› Ž‘•‹‰ ‘ơ ƒ”‡ƒ• ‘ˆ –Š‡ ‘ ‡ƒ –‘ Ƥ•Š‹‰ ƒ† ‘–Š‡” Š‡ ‘•‹†‡”‹‰ –Š‡ •–—†‹‡• ‘‰ƒ„ƒ›”‡˜‹‡™‡†ǡ ‡š–”ƒ –‹˜‡ ƒ –‹˜‹–‹‡•ǡ •ǡ ‡•’‡ ‹ƒŽŽ› ƒ”‹‡ ”‡•‡”˜‡• though, most studies suggest that MPAs can be good –Šƒ– „ƒ ƒŽŽ ‘” ‘•– •— Š ƒ –‹˜‹–‹‡•ǡ ƒ”‡ ‡š’‡ –‡† –‘ for marine life. Š‡Ž’ •’‡ ‹‡• ”‡ ‘˜‡”Ǥ  ƒ ‡–ƒǦƒƒŽ›•‹• ’—„Ž‹•Š‡† ‹ ͖͔͔͗ǡˆ‘”‡šƒ’Ž‡ǡ A great deal of research has looked into whether ‡Œƒ‹ ƒŽ’‡” ‘ˆ –Š‡ ‹˜‡”•‹–› ‘ˆ ƒŽ‹ˆ‘”‹ƒǡ BELOW they do, although much of it is not of the highest ƒ–ƒ ƒ”„ƒ”ƒ ‘„‹‡† •—”˜‡› †ƒ–ƒ ˆ”‘ ͜͝ A shark lurks in the “—ƒŽ‹–›ǣ ƒ› •–—†‹‡• †‘ ‘– Šƒ˜‡ ”‹‰‘”‘—• †‡•‹‰• studies and found that population densities, water by a seabird ƒ† ƒ‘– †‡Ƥ‹–‹˜‡Ž› ƒ––”‹„—–‡ ‘„•‡”˜‡† Šƒ‰‡• „‹‘ƒ••ǡ †‹˜‡”•‹–› ƒ† •‹œ‡ ‘ˆ Ƥ•Š ™‡”‡ ‰‡‡”ƒŽŽ› in Aldabra Atoll, Seychelles to the MPA itself. ‘•‹†‡”ƒ„Ž› Š‹‰Š‡” ‹•‹†‡ ƒ”‹‡ ”‡•‡”˜‡• –Šƒ Imran Ahmad

EXPECTED BENEFITS CRITICISMS

• ‡ơ‡ –‹˜‡Ž› ‘•‡”˜‡ ƒŽŽ Ž‡˜‡Ž• ‘ˆ ƒ”‹‡ • ƒ”‡ ‘Ž› ‡ơ‡ –‹˜‡ ƒ‰ƒ‹•– Ž‡‰ƒŽ Ƥ•Š‹‰ǡ„—– „‹‘†‹˜‡”•‹–›ǡˆ”‘‰‡‡•–‘•’‡ ‹‡•–‘–Š‡‡ ‘•›•–‡ fail to account for issues such as global warming, ƒ ‹†‹Ƥ ƒ–‹‘ǡ‘‹Ž•’‹ŽŽ•ǡ’Žƒ•–‹ ’‘ŽŽ—–‹‘ǡƒ‰”‹ —Ž–—”ƒŽ ™ƒ•–‡ƒ†‹ŽŽ‡‰ƒŽƤ•Š‹‰ • ƒ”‡„—‹Ž†Ƥ•Š•–‘ •ƒ†‡•—”‡•—•–ƒ‹ƒ„‹Ž‹–› outside their boundaries •†‘ǯ–”‡†— ‡Ƥ•Š‹‰’”‡••—”‡ǡ„—–•‹’Ž›‘˜‡ ‹––‘ƒ†‹ơ‡”‡–ƒ”‡ƒ

100| SDAA ‘—–•‹†‡Ǥ ƒŽ’‡”ˆ—”–Š‡”ƒƒŽ›•‡†ƒ•—„•‡–‘ˆ͕͛ •–—†‹‡•–Šƒ–Šƒ†‹ˆ‘”ƒ–‹‘ˆ”‘„‡ˆ‘”‡–Š‡”‡•‡”˜‡• ™‡”‡‡•–ƒ„Ž‹•Š‡†ǡƒ† ‘ Ž—†‡†–Šƒ–Ƥ•Š†‡•‹–›ƒ† biomass increased within one to three years of the ”‡ƒ–‹‘‘ˆ–Š‡”‡•‡”˜‡•Ǥ —––Š‡”‡•‡”˜‡•ƒơ‡ –†‹ơ‡”‡–•’‡ ‹‡•‹†‹ơ‡”‡– ™ƒ›•ǡ ƒŽ’‡”™”‘–‡ǤŽ‘™Ǧ‰”‘™‹‰ǡŽ‘‰ǦŽ‹˜‡† species like cod tend to respond to protection more ‰”ƒ†—ƒŽŽ›–Šƒˆƒ•–Ǧ‰”‘™‹‰ǡ•Š‘”–ǦŽ‹˜‡†•’‡ ‹‡•Ž‹‡ • ƒŽŽ‘’•Ǥ‹‹Žƒ”Ž›ǡŠ‡ƒ˜‹Ž›‡š’Ž‘‹–‡†•’‡ ‹‡•ƒ”‡Ž‹‡Ž› –‘”‡•’‘†–‘’”‘–‡ –‹‘‘”‡“—‹ Ž›–Šƒ–Š‘•‡ –Šƒ–ƒ”‡‘–Ƥ•Š‡†ǡ„‡ ƒ—•‡Ƥ•Š‹‰Ȃ–Š‡ƒ‹ƒ –‹˜‹–› ‹’ƒ –‹‰–Š‡‹”•—”˜‹˜ƒŽȂ‹••—††‡Ž›”‡‘˜‡†ˆ”‘ –Š‡”‡•‡”˜‡Ǥ ƒ‘”‡”‡ ‡–•–—†›’—„Ž‹•Š‡†Žƒ•–›‡ƒ”ǡ ‡‘”‰‡ ƒ•‘‹˜‡”•‹–›ǯ• ‹ŽŽƒ†Š‹• ‘ŽŽ‡ƒ‰—‡• ‘’ƒ”‡† Ƥ•Š†ƒ–ƒˆ”‘͖͕͜•™‹–Šƒ– Š‹‰—’”‘–‡ –‡† Christian Vizl

In short, if marine protected areas, or networks of marine protected areas, are large enough relative to the range size of species of interest, away from sources of stress that marine protected areas can’t control, such as land-based pollution from rivers, and well-enforced, they provide GUDPDWLF EHQH¿W WRZDUGV biodiversity conservation Benjamin Halpern Barbara & Wolfgang Poelzer

ƒ”‡ƒ•–‘™‡‡†‘—–’‘–‡–‹ƒŽ”‹˜ƒŽ‡š’Žƒƒ–‹‘•Ǥ Š‡–‡ƒˆ‘—†–Šƒ–ǡ‘ƒ˜‡”ƒ‰‡ǡƤ•Š„‹‘ƒ••‹•‹†‡ Š‡™”‘–‡‹Š‡‘˜‡”•ƒ–‹‘ǡDzŽ‹‡•‘–Š‡ –Š‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•™ƒ•͕Ǥ͚–‹‡•Š‹‰Š‡”–Šƒ‹ ƒ’–Šƒ–ˆƒ‹Ž–‘ƒ Š‹‡˜‡†‡•‹”‡† ‘•‡”˜ƒ–‹‘ •‹‹Žƒ”—’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•ǤDz‡Ž‘•–ƒ„‘—–ƒ“—ƒ”–‡” outcomes.” ‘ˆ‘—”†ƒ–ƒ•‡–„‡ ƒ—•‡™‡†‹†‘–Ƥ†ƒ’’”‘’”‹ƒ–‡ DzŠ‹•‹•ƒ˜‡”›™‘””›‹‰•–ƒ–‹•–‹ ‹–‡”•‘ˆ protected and unprotected matches, but by doing „‹‘†‹˜‡”•‹–› ‘•‡”˜ƒ–‹‘‰‘ƒŽ•ǡdz†‰ƒ”–‘Ž† –Š‹•ǡ™‡™‡”‡ƒŽ•‘‘”‡ ‘Ƥ†‡–ƒ„‘—–‘—””‡•—Ž–•ǡdz Mongabay. “I think most of the public is misled ‹ŽŽ•ƒ‹†Ǥ in the sense that they consider [the] establishment ˜‡”ƒŽŽǡ”‡•‡ƒ” Š‡”••ƒ›–Šƒ––Š‡”‡‹•“—‹–‡ƒŽ‘– of a marine protected area as being an important ‘ˆ‡˜‹†‡ ‡–‘•Š‘™–Šƒ–• ƒ„‡‡Ƥ–•’‡ ‹‡•ǡ ‘•‡”˜ƒ–‹‘‰‘ƒŽ„—––Š‡”‡ƒŽ‹–›‹•–Šƒ––Š‡”‡ ’ƒ”–‹ —Žƒ”Ž›–Š‘•‡–Šƒ–Šƒ˜‡„‡‡–Š”‡ƒ–‡‡† ƒ”‡˜‡”›Ž‹––Ž‡„‹‘†‹˜‡”•‹–›„‡‡Ƥ–•ˆ”‘‘•– historically within the protected area boundaries. ƒ”‹‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•ǤŠ‡’—„Ž‹ ‹•‰‡––‹‰“—‹–‡ —–•‘‡”‡ ‡–•–—†‹‡•Šƒ˜‡ˆ‘—†–Šƒ–‡”‡Ž› a wrong impression in terms of the safeguards for ”‡ƒ–‹‰ƒ†‘‡•‘–‡ƒ–Šƒ–„‹‘†‹˜‡”•‹–› ƒ”‹‡„‹‘†‹˜‡”•‹–›Ǥdz TOP ‘•‡”˜ƒ–‹‘‰‘ƒŽ•™‹ŽŽ„‡ƒ Š‹‡˜‡†ǤŠ‡›Šƒ˜‡–‘„‡ ‡†‡‡‡†‘Ž›͕͔’‡” ‡–‘ˆ–Š‡’ƒ”•Š‡•–—†‹‡† A pod of dolphins done right in order to work. Dz‡ơ‡ –‹˜‡dz„ƒ•‡†‘–Š‡‹”Šƒ˜‹‰˜‡”›Š‹‰Š—„‡”• swimming in ‡˜‹ŽŽƒ‰‹‰‡†‘ ƒ•–—†›’—„Ž‹•Š‡†‹͖͔͕͘ǡˆ‘”‡šƒ’Ž‡ǡ–Š‡ ‘ˆŽƒ”‰‡Ƥ•ŠŽ‹‡•Šƒ”•ǤŽŽ–Š‡•‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•Šƒ† Archipelago National ‹˜‡”•‹–›‘ˆƒ•ƒ‹ƒǯ•†‰ƒ”—•‡††ƒ–ƒˆ”‘ Ƥ˜‡”‡ —””‹‰ˆ‡ƒ–—”‡•ǡŠ‡ˆ‘—†ǣŠ‡›Šƒ†‘ǦƤ•Š‹‰ Park, Mexico ͛͜• ‘ŽŽ‡ –‡†Žƒ”‰‡Ž›„›–”ƒ‹‡†”‡ ”‡ƒ–‹‘ƒŽ œ‘‡•ǡ™‡”‡™‡ŽŽǦ‡ˆ‘” ‡†ǡ‘”‡–Šƒ͕͔›‡ƒ”•‘Ž†ǡ • —„ƒ†‹˜‡”•ǡƒ†ˆ‘—†–Šƒ––Š‡Ž‡˜‡Ž•‘ˆƤ•Š ”‡Žƒ–‹˜‡Ž›Žƒ”‰‡‹ƒ”‡ƒǡƒ†‹•‘Žƒ–‡†ˆ”‘Ƥ•Š‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•Ǥ ABOVE biomass in more than half of the protected areas ‹‹Žƒ”Ž›ǡ ‹ŽŽǯ••–—†›ˆ‘—†–Šƒ–’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•  ƒŽž’ƒ‰‘••Šƒ”ƒ– the UNESCO ™‡”‡‘–˜‡”›†‹ơ‡”‡–ˆ”‘ƒ†Œƒ ‡–Ƥ•Š‡† –Šƒ–Šƒ†ƒ†‡“—ƒ–‡•–ƒơ’‡”ˆ‘”‡†‡ƒ”Ž›–Š”‡‡–‹‡• World Heritage locations. These MPAs were simply “paper parks,” better than parks that did not. Site in Colombia

101 | SDAA FEATURE: THE UPS AND DOWNS OF MARINE PROTECTED AREAS

LEFT Young local girls from Raja Ampat, Glenn Yong Indonesia

HOW MARINE PROTECTED AREAS AFFECT LOCAL PEOPLE IS LESS CLEAR

”‘’‘‡–•ƒ”‰—‡–Šƒ–• ƒŠƒ˜‡ƒ•Ž‡™‘ˆ ˆ‡™•–—†‹‡•Šƒ˜‡ˆ‘—†•‘‡’‘•‹–‹˜‡‡ơ‡ –•ǡ ’‘•‹–‹˜‡‡ơ‡ –•‘Ƥ•Š‹‰ƒ† ‘ƒ•–ƒŽ ‘—‹–‹‡•ǡ –‘‘Ǥ͖͔͕͔‡–ƒǦƒƒŽ›•‹•–Šƒ– ‘„‹‡††ƒ–ƒ ‹ Ž—†‹‰‹’”‘˜‡†Ž‹˜‡Ž‹Š‘‘†•ˆ”‘Ƥ•Š‡”‹‡•ǡ ˆ”‘͖͕•–—†‹‡•”‡’‘”–‡†–Šƒ–•‘‡Ƥ•Š‹‰ ’‘Ž‹–‹ ƒŽ‡’‘™‡”‡–ƒ†‡™‰‘˜‡”ƒ ‡ƒ† ‘—‹–‹‡•’‡” ‡‹˜‡†ƒ‹ ”‡ƒ•‡‹ˆ‘‘†•‡ —”‹–› job opportunities. Critics counter that MPAs restrict ƒˆ–‡”–Š‡‡•–ƒ„Ž‹•Š‡–‘ˆ•Ǥ‹‹Žƒ”Ž›ǡƒ͖͔͕͗ Ž‘ ƒŽ ‘—‹–‹‡•ǯƒ ‡••–‘–Š‡‹”ƒ ‡•–”ƒŽƤ•Š‹‰ case report found that local communities generally grounds, make them poorer and often increase ’‡” ‡‹˜‡†ƒ‹’”‘˜‡‡–‹‡ ‘‘‹ ƒ† ‘ƪ‹ –„‡–™‡‡–Š‡ƒ†’‡‘’Ž‡‹˜‘Ž˜‡†‹’ƒ” ‡˜‹”‘‡–ƒŽ„‡‡Ƥ–•ˆ”‘ƒ’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ management or tourism. But much of the research in the UK. that exists on this consists of case reports that Š‡ ƒ•‡•‘‰ƒ„ƒ›”‡˜‹‡™‡††‹†‘–”‡–—” †‡’‡†‘‹–‡”˜‹‡™•™‹–ŠŽ‘ ƒŽ’‡‘’Ž‡Ǥ any rigorously designed studies comparing “Such studies aren’t experimental and their ˜‹ŽŽƒ‰‡•ƒ”‘—†•™‹–Š•‹‹Žƒ”˜‹ŽŽƒ‰‡•ƒ”‘—† ”‡•—Ž–•ƒ”‡•—„Œ‡ –‹˜‡ǡ„—––Š‡›ƒ”‡‹’‘”–ƒ–„‡ ƒ—•‡ unprotected waters. it matters whether the people think the marine ‹ŽŽƒ‰”‡‡†–Šƒ–‘Ž›ƒŠƒ†ˆ—Ž‘ˆ•— Š”‹‰‘”‘—• ’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•Šƒ˜‡„‡‡‡ơ‡ –‹˜‡‘”‘–ǡdz•ƒ‹† •–—†‹‡•‡š‹•–ǡƒ†’‘‹–‡†–‘‘‡’—„Ž‹•Š‡†‹͖͔͕͘ ƒ–ƒŽ‹‡ƒǡƒƒ”‹‡„‹‘Ž‘‰‹•–ƒ––Š‡‹˜‡”•‹–›‘ˆ that looked at the social impacts of MPAs in Sulawesi, ‹ –‘”‹ƒǡƒƒ†ƒǤ ‘™‡˜‡”ǡ–Š‡•‡•–—†‹‡•†‘ǯ––‡ŽŽ Indonesia. The researchers behind that study found us much about whether the establishment of MPAs, †‹˜‡”‰‡–‡ơ‡ –•ǣ‡–™‡‡͕͛͝͝ƒ†͖͔͔͖ǡ–Š‡ or some other sociopolitical factor, is really what’s ’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•ƒ’’‡ƒ”‡†–‘‹ ”‡ƒ•‡Ž‹˜‡Ž‹Š‘‘† †”‹˜‹‰–Š‡•‡’‡” ‡’–‹‘•Ǥ ‘’–‹‘•ˆ‘”’‡‘’Ž‡Ž‹˜‹‰‡ƒ”–Š‡ ‘’ƒ”‡†–‘ ƒ͖͔͕͘ ƒ•‡”‡’‘”–‘‰ƒ„ƒ›Ž‘‘‡†ƒ–ǡˆ‘” –Š‘•‡Ž‹˜‹‰‡ƒ”—’”‘–‡ –‡†™ƒ–‡”•ǡˆ‘”‹•–ƒ ‡Ǥ ‡šƒ’Ž‡ǡ”‡•‡ƒ” Š‡”•‹–‡”˜‹‡™‹‰ ‘—‹–‹‡• —––Š‡’‡‘’Ž‡Ž‹˜‹‰ƒ”‘—†–Š‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•ƒŽ•‘ near four Thai MPAs found that some people ”ƒ–‡†–Š‡‹”Š‘—•‡Š‘Ž†™‡ŽŽǦ„‡‹‰ƒ•Ž‘™‡”–Šƒ–Š‘•‡ ’‡” ‡‹˜‡†ƒ†‡ Ž‹‡‹–Š‡‹”Ž‹˜‡Ž‹Š‘‘†ˆ”‘Ƥ•Š‹‰ ‹–Š‡ ‘–”‘Ž˜‹ŽŽƒ‰‡•ǤŠ‡•‡‹’ƒ –• Šƒ‰‡†ƒˆ–‡” and collecting shells. Others said they hadn’t seen 2002 when the agencies managing the protected much change, mainly because either the authorities areas withdrew their support, the study found. ƒŽŽ‘™‡†•ƒŽŽǦ• ƒŽ‡Ƥ•Š‹‰‹•‹†‡–Š‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ• More such rigorous studies can tell us how the or did not enforce the regulations. Another case ‹’ƒ –•‘ˆ’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•˜ƒ”›‘˜‡”–‹‡ƒ†ƒ ”‘•• report found that communities around an MPA in †‹ơ‡”‡– ‘—‹–‹‡•ǡ‡š’‡”–••ƒ›ǡ™Š‹ Š ƒ–Š‡ Zanzibar, Tanzania, were generally unhappy with potentially help managers design better marine Š‘™–Š‡’ƒ”™ƒ•„‡‹‰ƒƒ‰‡†Ǥ‡‡Ƥ–•ˆ”‘ protected areas. “If we continue to use marine tourism and other jobs related to the protected area protected areas, we better be sure to do it in ways ™‡”‡‹‡“—‹–ƒ„Ž›†‹•–”‹„—–‡†ǡƒ†–Š‡ ‘—‹–‹‡• –Šƒ–ƒ”‡‡“—‹–ƒ„Ž‡ƒ†‘–•‡˜‡”‡Ž›ƒơ‡ –‹‰–Š‡ felt marginalised. ’‘‘”ǡdz ‹ŽŽ•ƒ‹†Ǥ

102 | SDAA NET BENEFITS FOR FISHERIES ARE ALSO NOT WELL UNDERSTOOD

In theory, MPAs, particularly those that are closed ƒŽ’‡”ƒ‰”‡‡†–Šƒ––Š‡„‡‡Ƥ–•‘ˆ•‘ ‘ơ–‘ƒŽŽ‘”‘•–Ƥ•Š‹‰ǡ ƒƒŽŽ‘™‘˜‡”Ƥ•Š‡†•’‡ ‹‡• Ƥ•Š‡”‹‡•ƒ”‡˜‡”› ‘–‡š–Ǧ†‡’‡†‡–ƒ†–”ƒ†‹–‹‘ƒŽ –‘ƒ–—”‡—†‹•–—”„‡†ƒ†’”‘†— ‡‘”‡‘ơ•’”‹‰Ǥ ƒƒ‰‡‡––‡ Š‹“—‡•ǡ•— Šƒ••‡ƒ•‘ƒŽƤ•Š‹‰ Š‡‘ơ•’”‹‰ ƒ–Š‡•™‹‘˜‡”–Š‡‹˜‹•‹„Ž‡ Ž‘•—”‡•‘””‡•–”‹ –‹‘•‘ ‡”–ƒ‹‹†•‘ˆƤ•Š‹‰ „‘—†ƒ”‹‡•–‘ƒ†Œƒ ‡–Ƥ•Š‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•ƒ†’”‘˜‹†‡ ‡“—‹’‡–ǡ•‘‡–‹‡• ‘‡‘—–ƒŠ‡ƒ†Ǥ „‹‰‰‡” ƒ– Š‡•ƒ†‘”‡‘‡›ˆ‘”Ƥ•Š‡”•Ǥ †‡‡†ǡ Dz †‡˜‡Ž‘’‡† ‘—–”‹‡•ƒ†Žƒ”‰‡•–‘ •ǡ as mentioned, a good body of research suggests that –”ƒ†‹–‹‘ƒŽƤ•Š‡”‹‡•ƒƒ‰‡‡–Šƒ•„‡‡˜‡”› •’‡ ‹‡•–ƒ”‰‡–‡†„›Ƥ•Š‡”•‘ˆ–‡†‘”‡•’‘†™‡ŽŽ ‡ơ‡ –‹˜‡ǡ‡•’‡ ‹ƒŽŽ›‘”‡”‡ ‡–Ž›ǡdzŠ‡•ƒ‹†Ǥ –‘’”‘–‡ –‹‘Ǥ—–†‘‘”‡ƒ†Žƒ”‰‡”Ƥ•Š‹•‹†‡ƒ protected area really mean higher catches outside ‹–•„‘—†ƒ”‹‡•ǫ ‡•›•–‡ƒ–‹ ”‡˜‹‡™’—„Ž‹•Š‡†‹͖͔͕͚ˆ‘—† ‡˜‹†‡ ‡‘ˆ•’‹ŽŽ‘˜‡”‹͔͜’‡” ‡–‘ˆ‹–••–—†‹‡•Ǥ—– –Š‡”‡•‡ƒ” Š‡”•ƒ††‡†ƒ ƒ˜‡ƒ–ǣDzȏ™‡–›Ȑ’‡” ‡–‘ˆ ”‡ƒ‹‹‰•–—†‹‡•–Šƒ–ˆƒ‹Ž‡†–‘’”‘˜‹†‡ƒ›‡˜‹†‡ ‡ ‘ˆ•’‹ŽŽ‘˜‡”‹•Ž‹‡Ž›–‘„‡—†‡”‡•–‹ƒ–‡†ǥ„‡ ƒ—•‡ ‘ˆ’—„Ž‹ ƒ–‹‘„‹ƒ•‹‡ ‘Ž‘‰›ǡƒ†•’‡ ‹Ƥ ƒŽŽ›‹ ƒ”‹‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ• ‹‡ ‡ǡdz™Š‡”‡’‘•‹–‹˜‡ ”‡•—Ž–•ƒ”‡ˆƒ˜‘—”‡†ǡ–Š‡›™”‘–‡Ǥ —–‡˜‡‹ˆ–Š‡”‡‹••‘‡•’‹ŽŽ‘˜‡”ǡ‹•‹–‡‘—‰Š –‘ ‘’‡•ƒ–‡ˆ‘””‡†— ‡†Ƥ•Š‹‰ƒ”‡ƒ•™‹–Š ‹ ”‡ƒ•‡†Ƥ•Š‹‰’”‡••—”‡ƒ†–Š—•’”‘˜‹†‡ƒ ‡–„‡‡Ƥ––‘Ƥ•Š‡”•ǫ ‘‰ƒ„ƒ›ǯ•”‡˜‹‡™ ƒ’–—”‡†‘Ž›‘‡ empirical study that looked at this, bearing in ‹†–Šƒ––Š‡‹””‡˜‹‡™ƒ†•‡ƒ” Š–‡”•™‡”‡‘– ‡šŠƒ—•–‹˜‡ǤŠ‹••–—†›ǡ’—„Ž‹•Š‡†‹͖͔͔͕ǡˆ‘—†–Šƒ– Shutterstock –Š‡„‹‘ƒ••‘ˆƤ˜‡ ‘‡” ‹ƒŽŽ›‹’‘”–ƒ–Ƥ•Š families increased both inside and outside marine ”‡•‡”˜‡•‹–Š‡ƒ”‹„„‡ƒ‹•Žƒ†‘ˆ–Ǥ— ‹ƒ™‹–Š‹ 2YHUDOO,DPVDWLV¿HGZLWKWKH –Š”‡‡›‡ƒ”•‘ˆ‡•–ƒ„Ž‹•Š‡–Ǥ‘”‡‘˜‡”ǡ–Š‡ research that is being done to see Ƥ•Š ƒ– Š‹ ”‡ƒ•‡†•—„•–ƒ–‹ƒŽŽ›Ȃ„›„‡–™‡‡ WKHHFRORJLFDOH̆HFWLYHQHVVRIPDULQH ͚͘ƒ†͔͝’‡” ‡–ǡ†‡’‡†‹‰‘–Š‡–›’‡‘ˆ protected areas. I think it’s useful –”ƒ’•–Š‡Ƥ•Š‡”•—•‡†Ǥ The results of this single study cannot be to keep studying that Ȃ how things ‰‡‡”ƒŽ‹•‡†ǡ‘ˆ ‘—”•‡ǡƒ†‡š’‡”–•Šƒ˜‡‘–‡†–Šƒ– change with time and protection while there are some empirical studies looking at how Natalie Ban •ƒơ‡ –Ƥ•Š‡”‹‡•ǡ‘•–‘ˆ–Š‡ƒ”‡‘–”‹‰‘”‘—• and their conclusions are mixed. ‘”‡šƒ’Ž‡ǡƒ͖͔͕͗•–—†›ˆ‘—†–Šƒ–Ƥ•Š‡”• Dz †‡˜‡Ž‘’‹‰ƒ–‹‘•ƒ†Š‹‰ŠŽ›†‹˜‡”•‡ ™Š‘™‘”‡†‡ƒ”–Š‡ ‘—ƒƒ‹‘—–Š Ƥ•Š‡”‹‡•Ȃƒ•‹•–Š‡ ƒ•‡™‹–Šƒ› ‘”ƒŽ”‡‡ˆ Africa saw a nearly steady increase in the catch Ƥ•Š‡”‹‡•‹–”‘’‹ ƒŽ ‘—–”‹‡•Ȃ–”ƒ†‹–‹‘ƒŽƤ•Š‡”‹‡• of commercially important Roman seabream ƒƒ‰‡‡–Šƒ•‘–„‡‡ƒ•‡ơ‡ –‹˜‡ƒ†ƒ”‹‡ (Chrysoblephus laticepsȌ‘˜‡”–Š‡͕͔›‡ƒ”••‹ ‡–Š‡ ’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•ƒ”‡‘ˆ–‡ƒ— Š‘”‡‡ơ‡ –‹˜‡ ’ƒ”ǯ•‡•–ƒ„Ž‹•Š‡–‹͕͔͝͝Ǥ ƒ†˜‹ƒ„Ž‡•–”ƒ–‡‰›Ǥ—––Š‡”‡ƒ”‡ƒ› By contrast, in a 2000 study from Kenya, ‘—–‡”‡šƒ’Ž‡•ƒ†‘–Š‡”‹••—‡•‹’Žƒ›Ȃ‹‘–Š‡” ”‡•‡ƒ” Š‡”•ˆ‘—†–Šƒ–™Š‹Ž‡–Š‡ ”‡ƒ–‹‘‘ˆƒ‘Ǧ–ƒ‡ words, context matters.” Šƒ†Ž‡†–‘•‘‡•’‹ŽŽ‘˜‡”ǡ–Š‡Ƥ•Š ƒ– Š™ƒ• Dz˜‡”ƒŽŽǡ ƒ•ƒ–‹•Ƥ‡†™‹–Š–Š‡”‡•‡ƒ” Š–Šƒ– Ž‘™‡”–Šƒ‹–™ƒ•„‡ˆ‘”‡–Š‡’ƒ”ǯ• ”‡ƒ–‹‘ŠƒŽ˜‡† ‹•„‡‹‰†‘‡–‘•‡‡–Š‡‡ ‘Ž‘‰‹ ƒŽ‡ơ‡ –‹˜‡‡•• –Š‡ƒ˜ƒ‹Žƒ„Ž‡Ƥ•Š‹‰ƒ”‡ƒǤ‹‹Žƒ””‡•—Ž–•™‡”‡ˆ‘—† of marine protected areas. I think it’s useful to keep ‹—•–”ƒŽ‹ƒǯ• ”‡ƒ–ƒ””‹‡”‡‡ˆǤ •–—†›‹‰–Šƒ–ȂŠ‘™–Š‹‰• Šƒ‰‡™‹–Š–‹‡ƒ† ‘•–’‘•‹–‹˜‡‡šƒ’Ž‡• ‘‡ˆ”‘•–Šƒ– protection,” Ban said. “But I do think we need a lot ƒ”‡‡‹–Š‡”˜‡”›•ƒŽŽȋ•‘–Š‡Ƥ•Š‡”•Ž‘•‡‘Ž›ƒ•ƒŽŽ ‘ˆ‡’Šƒ•‹•‘–Š‡Š—ƒ‡Ž‡‡–ǣ–‘™Šƒ–‡š–‡– ƒ‘—–‘ˆ–Š‡‹”’”‡˜‹‘—•Ƥ•Š‹‰ƒ”‡ƒȌǡ‘”ˆ”‘ ƒ”‹‡’”‘–‡ –‡†ƒ”‡ƒ•ƒơ‡ –Š—ƒ™‡ŽŽǦ„‡‹‰ ’ƒ”•Ž‘ ƒ–‡†‹ƒ”‡ƒ•™Š‡”‡Ƥ•Š•–‘ •ƒ”‡•‡˜‡”‡Ž› for coastal communities that rely on the oceans for ABOVE SDAA ‘˜‡”‡š’Ž‘‹–‡†ǡ•ƒ‹†–Š‡‹˜‡”•‹–›‘ˆƒ•Š‹‰–‘ǯ• –Š‡‹”Ž‹˜‡Ž‹Š‘‘†•Ǥdz Ƥ•Š‡”‡ Ray Hilborn. www.mongabay.com casting his net

103| SDAA BUYER’S GUIDE

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104| SDAA Scubapro SEAWING NOVA FULL FOOT 5 This fin offers all the power, acceleration, manoeuvrability and effortless kicking characteristics of the award-winning Seawing Nova 5 • Full-foot design • Ergo-fit foot pocket to prevent chafing and blistering on the ankle and Achilles tendon • Proprietary G4 articulated hinge that enables the entire wing-shaped blade to pivot and generate thrust MSRP USD215 www.scubapro.com

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DAN: The Diving Industry’s largest organisation dedicated to diving health and safety Perspectives

”‘•‹ƒǦƒ ‹Ƥ  DAN IS NOT JUST AN INSURANCE COMPANY

A comment we sometimes hear, To raise revenue to enable DAN safety campaigns in 2018, commencing particularly at dive shows, is that –‘ˆ—†–Š‹•‹••‹‘ǡ™‡‘ơ‡”†‹˜‡”• with our air quality (Safety Is in the “DAN is just an insurance company”. Membership and Dive Injury Air) campaign. We encourage you to This assessment is not correct, as it Treatment cover. stay connected with DAN AP via our fails to factor in the many and varied The primary role of DAN is to make social media channels as much of the contributions DAN makes within the diving safer. As a team, we strive to campaign information will be shared diving community that are the driving achieve this through: online via our Facebook page (search for our existence. • providing education to our members Dz•‹ƒƒ ‹Ƥ dzȌƒ†˜‹ƒ‘—”„Ž‘‰ Unlike our competitors who are and the diving community at large; (www.daninsider.org). Information •‹’Ž›ˆ‘”Ǧ’”‘Ƥ–‹•—”ƒ ‡•‡ŽŽ‡”•ǡ • providing accident management will also be shared on our website, ‹•ƒ‘Ǧ’”‘Ƥ–†‹˜‹‰•ƒˆ‡–› ȋ‘š›‰‡ƒ†Ƥ”•–ƒ‹†Ȍ–”ƒ‹‹‰Ǣ www.danap.org, within the organisation. Our mission is “to be • conducting research into “” section. the most recognised and trusted diving-related issues; and We will also reinvigorate some ‘”‰ƒ‹•ƒ–‹‘™‘”Ž†™‹†‡‹–Š‡Ƥ‡Ž†•‘ˆ • providing emergency support, past campaigns that are still diver safety and emergency services, and follow-up, to members ”‡Ž‡˜ƒ––‘ƒŽŽ†‹˜‡”•ǡ‹ƒ‡ơ‘”––‘ health, research and education of its in the event of a diving accident. reduce the number of diving accidents members, instructors, supporters and ƒ†‹Œ—”‹‡•Ǥǯ••ƒˆ‡–› ƒ’ƒ‹‰• the community •’ƒ”–‘ˆ•‹ƒǦƒ ‹Ƥ ǯ• were all initiated following a need at large”. education role, we will launch two major –Šƒ–™ƒ•‹†‡–‹Ƥ‡†–Š”‘—‰Š”‡•‡ƒ” Š projects, or through case management of diving accidents. We would love to see a world where diving accidents were non-existent and dive-related coverage was not needed; but until that happens, DAN will continue to provide education and information to divers to try and reduce incidents, whilst also providing coverage ˆ‘”–Š‘•‡™Š‘Ƥ†–Š‡•‡Ž˜‡•‹‡‡† of assistance. DAN is not just an insurance company. We are so much more than that. We are your diving safety organisation.

Dive safely,

Scott Jamieson, •‹ƒǦƒ ‹Ƥ

SAFETY TIP Connect Enter DAN as a contact in your phone and visit “Emergency” at www.danap.org. Engage with DAN on Whilst all divers can call DAN for advice, DAN can only arrange an emergency Facebook for insights into evacuation and pay for associated treatment costs for current members various dive safety and (within the limits of their coverage). medical issues. Scan here or search DAN Asia-Pacific.

107 | DAN Research, Education & Medicine

Safety 101  ǧ  

This incident is a good example of how being a prepared diver and having an emergency action plan can prove fortunate By Tara Narowski

THE DIVER lake popular with divers. He was The diver was a 45-year-old male dive accompanied by his wife, who was instructor with approximately 300 assisting the class as a , for lifetime dives. He denied taking any ƒ•‡”‹‡•‘ˆƤ˜‡†‹˜‡•‘˜‡”–Š‡™‡‡‡†Ǥ medication and reported no history of They completed three dives on Saturday medical conditions. with long surface intervals between the dives followed by a 16.5-hour surface THE DIVES ‹–‡”˜ƒŽ„‡ˆ‘”‡–Š‡Ƥ”•–†‹˜‡‘—†ƒ›Ǥ The diver was teaching an Advanced Š‡Ƥ”•–†‹˜‡‘—†ƒ›™ƒ•͗͘ Open Water course at a local minutes long with an average depth Stephen Frink

108| DAN of 16 metres and, to meet the depth ‘”–—ƒ–‡Ž›ǡ–Š‡†‹˜‡”ǯ••›’–‘• LEFT Although symptoms after requirement of the course, a maximum subsided after approximately diving are not always due depth of 30 metres. After a 90-minute 45 minutes of breathing pure . to DCS, divers who experience post-dive surface interval, the divers began their When he reached the hospital, there symptoms should contact second dive of the day, which focused was no more numbness or tingling in his DAN and seek medical attention promptly. on search-and-recovery skills. It was a arm, and he could walk normally again. Avoiding denial can greatly 48-minute dive with an average Although his symptoms were gone, improve outcomes depth of 15 metres and a maximum he was admitted to the emergency depth of 19 metres. The diver room for further analysis. When the reported non-stressful dives with diver arrived, he was put on a Ž–Š‘—‰Š–Š‡”‡’‘”–‡††‹˜‡’”‘ƤŽ‡• minimal exertion besides following and ‘Ǧ”‡„”‡ƒ–Š‡” ƒ• ™‹–Š ƒ ƪ‘™ ”ƒ–‡ ™‡”‡™‹–Š‹–Š‡†‹˜‡”ǯ• ‘’—–‡”Ž‹‹–•ǡ monitoring his students. The dives were of 15 litres per minute. The emergency with slow ascents and adequate within recreational limits, and his dive room doctor was in contact with surface interval time between dives, computer was on a conservative setting. DAN medics, who provided contact he still recognised and acknowledged His fastest ascent of the weekend was information for multiple hyperbaric the signs and symptoms of neurological at a rate of eight metres per minute. medical specialists in the area for DCS. If the diver had ignored the further consultation. symptoms and waited longer to seek The diver continued to breathe professional medical attention, his This incident can serve pure oxygen for about two hours, eventual recovery might not have been to remind all divers and his symptoms never returned. so swift and/or complete. of the importance of He underwent multiple tests, including In many cases, divers choose to self-awareness and an electrocardiogram, MRI, CT scan neglect DCS symptoms or attribute having an emergency and chest X-rays, all of which were them to a separate cause such as unremarkable. The doctor monitored heavy lifting, a tight wetsuit or action plan the diver for three-and-a-half hours overexertion. The diver contemplated before releasing him. In total, the the numbness and tingling sensation diver breathed 100 percent oxygen in his extremities, astutely recognised COMPLICATIONS ˆ‘” ƒ’’”‘š‹ƒ–‡Ž› Ƥ˜‡ Š‘—”•ǡ ™‹–Š these symptoms and took immediate As everyone was packing up after the exception of during testing and action. He acknowledged that there –Š‡ Ƥˆ–Š ƒ† ƤƒŽ †‹˜‡ ‘ˆ –Š‡ ™‡‡‡†ǡ necessary breaks. are risks associated with the diver began to experience a dull The doctors ultimately and was adequately prepared with an ache in his right shoulder and numbness determined this may have been emergency oxygen unit with various in his right leg. When he began to have a case of sickness types of breathing apparatus. Both the †‹ƥ —Ž–› ™ƒŽ‹‰ǡ Š‡ ƒ•‡† Š‹• ™‹ˆ‡ (DCS) that resolved before the diver and his buddy were trained to make the drive back to the scuba diver was admitted to the hospital. in how to use the emergency oxygen shop. After a few minutes in the car, Š‡ †‹˜‡”ǯ• ”‡’‘”– ‘ˆ ‹Ž† —‹Žƒ–‡”ƒŽ and how to determine when medical –Š‡ †‹˜‡”ǯ• ”‹‰Š– ƒ” •–ƒ”–‡† ˆ‡‡Ž‹‰ ‘Ž†Ǥ upper- and lower-extremity intervention is necessary. He checked to make sure the cold paresthesia that were resolved by Š‡†‹˜‡”ǯ•†‘ –‘”ƒ†˜‹•‡†Š‹ sensation was not because of the damp, surface-supplied oxygen suggests to discontinue repetitive deep dives, long-sleeved he was wearing central nervous system DCS. consult a neurologist for other or the cold air blowing from the air The general recommendation in possible explanations for his symptoms, conditioner. He then noticed that the such cases is to treat with hyperbaric get screened for a patent foramen cold sensation had turned to numbness (HBOT) regardless ovale (PFO) and wait 30 days before and slight tingling that progressed down of symptom resolution. In this case, returning to diving. his right arm and leg. after extensive testing and prolonged The diver has returned to diving since They pulled over the vehicle and monitoring, the physician was the incident and has not experienced set up their DAN oxygen unit, ‘Ƥ†‡–  ™ƒ• ‘– ‡ ‡••ƒ”›Ǥ further problems. and the diver began breathing from This incident can serve to remind the demand valve. They also set up DISCUSSION all divers of the importance of the non-rebreather mask in case This incident is a good example self-awareness and having an the diver lost consciousness. Once of how being a prepared diver and emergency action plan. It is crucial the diver was breathing 100 percent having an emergency action plan to be mindful when considering oxygen, his wife called DAN. can prove fortunate. The diver symptoms, to have an immediate The DAN medic assessed the situation ensured he was properly hydrated, oxygen supply available and to seek and directed them to the nearest ™‡ŽŽ ˆ‡† ƒ† •—ƥ ‹‡–Ž› ”‡•–‡† professional medical attention promptly emergency room. throughout his weekend of diving. when necessary.

109| DAN Research, Education & Medicine

Incident Insights THE DIVER’S UNCOVERING EXPERIENCE    THE DIVER PADI Open Water Scuba A 35-year-old male in Instructor with a What seemed like a regular good overall health 200+ dive history DCI diagnosis turned out to be symptomatic of an underlying issue ›•‹ƒǦƒ ‹Ƥ

THE TRIP Holiday to Vanuatu to dive the SS President Coolidge

THE DIVES • Eight dives conducted prior to the incident • Average diving depth was approximately 31 metres • All deco and safety stops were completed, and no violations occurred Matt Krumins

DIVE PROFILES DAY 1 DAY 2 SURFACE SURFACE DIVE 1 INTERVAL (SI) DIVE 2 DIVE 1 INTERVAL (SI) DIVE 2

31.2m, 28.3m, 31.0m, 30.2m, 33mins 2hr42mins 38mins 2hr 01mins 41mins

DAY 3 DAY 4 SURFACE SURFACE DIVE 1 INTERVAL (SI) DIVE 2 DIVE 1 INTERVAL (SI) DIVE 2

39.5m, 28.8m, 47.6m, 26.9m, 36mins 7hr 13mins 39mins 40mins 2hr 10mins 46mins Matt Krumins

ONSET OF SYMPTOMS 1. Around 15 minutes following the final dive, the diver became lightheaded, with spinning vision, nausea, and an unstable gait. He vomited soon after but reported no other pains or aches.

2. He was immediately provided with oxygen (O2) at the dive site and continued breathing O2 at the dive centre while waiting for paramedics to him to the local clinic for assessment.

3. DAN was called and the team commenced looking at evacuation options to get the diver to higher level care.

110 | DAN DIAGNOSIS EVACUATION The diver was evacuated from Espiritu Santo to Port Vila for chamber treatment

TREATMENT After assessment, the diver underwent a Table 6 treatment. Following the treatment, he reported no chest heaviness or pain. He also had much improved balance and vital signs were all normal. The following day the diver also received a Table 5 treatment. Two recompression treatments: 1. Table 6 (4 hours 45 minutes) 2. Table 5 (2 hours 15 minutes)

RECOVERY COSTS All symptoms alleviated following Total expenses were US$8,054 the second treatment. The diver Fully covered by DAN undertook no further dives on this trip

ANALYSIS The diver subsequently flew back to Australia and then across to the west coast without a return of symptoms. He was returning to work in a remote area without recompression facilities so he closely liaised with DAN AP in case any symptoms developed. He was advised to undergo a follow-up diving medical assessment as, in light of his symptoms (i.e., vestibular), it was suspected that he may well have a patent foramen ovale (PFO), a type of heart defect. The examining doctor agreed, and a subsequent test confirmed this suspicion. After discussions with diving medical professionals and his cardiologist, the diver has decided to have the PFO repaired. At least one quarter of the population has a PFO, and the presence of a large PFO (or one that allows blood and bubbles to pass through without provocation) can significantly increase the chances of DCI. Yet again, this case details a diver with an unknown PFO who suffered DCI after a repetitive series that included a deep dive (48 metres) followed by a relatively short (two-hour) surface interval, then another dive (27 metres). This is a common scenario and one that sometimes leads to DCI. To reduce the chances of a decompression incident, divers are advised to set their dive computers to a conservative mode and stay well within these reduced limits. Surface intervals should be extended as far as possible and if this is not practical, the repetitive dive(s) should be shortened to stay even further within computer limits.

To read more about PFOs, visit www.danap.org/PFO.php

111 | DAN Research, Education & Medicine

From     the Medical Line – Ask DAN MEDICAL CONDITION? DAN medics and researchers answer your questions about dive medicine

Q: I was diagnosed with leukaemia and A: Symptoms associated with leukaemia underwent treatment. I am in remission include dizziness, fatigue, fever, and was recently cleared by my doctors weakness, weight loss, anaemia, easy for exercise without restriction. I feel bruising and bleeding, shortness of well and need only scheduled follow- breath and infections. Clearly, these ups. I have always wanted to scuba dive ƒŽŽ Šƒ˜‡–Š‡’‘–‡–‹ƒŽ–‘ƒơ‡ –‘‡ǯ• BELOW but am unsure given my condition and well-being while diving. You and Leukaemia is a type of bone marrow cancer of malignant subsequent treatment. Can I dive, and your doctor should consider two plasma cells, associated with bone pain, bone fractures are there any restrictions or precautions important criteria. First, diving should and anaemia I should be aware of? be considered only for patients Shutterstock

112 | DAN Shutterstock

who are in remission – as you are. Q: I have noticed that beginning scuba and emerge later. It can also act as a –ǯ•‹’‘”–ƒ––Šƒ–ƒŽŽ†‹˜‡”•„‡ˆ”‡‡ divers often get nosebleeds after dives. growth medium for bacteria and lead from any distracting or disabling Šƒ– ƒ—•‡•–Š‡ǫ to sinus infections. symptoms. Second, it is important that Individuals with a history of sinus ›‘—ƒ†›‘—”’Š›•‹ ‹ƒ ‘Ƥ”–Šƒ– A: Divers, especially new divers, trouble, allergies, a broken nose or you are not only in good health but sometimes report nosebleeds after a deviated septum as well as divers also have good exercise tolerance. diving primarily because they are who currently have a cold may As you may know, many dive accidents unaware of the importance of Ƥ†‡“—ƒŽ‹•ƒ–‹‘†‹ƥ —Ž–ƒ†ƒ› result from challenges posed by the equalising the sinuses and middle ears. experience problems with nosebleeds. diving environment such as currents, The that results when the –ǯ•ƒŽ™ƒ›•„‡•––‘‘–†‹˜‡™‹–Šƒ ‘Ž†ǡ surface swims, weather and sea sinuses are not equalised can cause congestion or any other condition conditions. All divers must be prepared blood vessels in the lining of the nose that might block the sinus passages. to face such challenges before returning to burst. These vessels lie very close We suggest a slow, gentle descent to the water. to the mucous membranes that line with frequent equalising to help the nose and sinuses, and the blood can decrease the risk of sinus barotrauma. [Dan Nord, EMT-P, CHT] come from either of these linings. This Divers who are unable to equalise type of barotrauma, generally the result their sinuses or have frequent of air being trapped within the sinuses, nosebleeds when scuba diving should is not always painful, though the see their personal physician or a presence of blood can be disconcerting. specialist in ear, nose and throat ABOVE With this type of injury, blood can (ENT) care for evaluation. –ǯ•ƒŽ™ƒ›•„‡•–‘––‘†‹˜‡ also run down the back of the throat or with any condition that might block the sinus passages pool in the sinus below the eye [Dan Nord, EMT-P, CHT]

113 | DAN iStock

Q: Is there any reason cold water (hyperhydration) increases the risk. might increase the likelihood of For compressed-gas divers, respiratory lung squeeze while freediving? Ž‘ƒ†‹‰ȋ‘•–‹’‘”–ƒ–ǡ–Š‡‡ơ‘”––‘ I have experienced lung squeeze inhale) increases with water immersion, a few times, but only in cold water. with breathing through a mouthpiece I was shallower than 30 metres. In that adds resistance (particularly as gas warm water I can reach 50 metres, density increases) and with exertion. so I believe the squeeze is somehow Using compressed gas or freediving, if related to the water temperature. –Š‡‡–‡ơ‡ –‘ˆ–Š‡˜ƒ”‹‘—••–”‡••‘”• ‹•ƒ•—ƥ ‹‡–‹ ”‡ƒ•‡‹–Š‡’—Ž‘ƒ”› A: You described your condition as artery pressure, capillary stress failure lung squeeze, but it sounds like your can produce a shift of blood into the question is really about what might lungs. Symptoms of IPE can include have caused you to cough up blood –Š‡’‡” ‡’–‹‘‘ˆ•–”ƒ‹‘”•–‹ơ‡••‹ from your lungs (presumably) under breathing, coughing and the coughing the conditions you describe. Given up of small amounts of blood. the variable impact of depth on the Š‹Ž‡  ƒ‘– ‘Ƥ”–Šƒ––Š‹• development of the condition, you is what you are experiencing, it may could be experiencing a form of be that the central blood volume immersion pulmonary oedema (IPE). ‹ ”‡ƒ•‡ƒ‰‹Ƥ‡†„›–Š‡ ‘Ž†™ƒ–‡” IPE is a multifactorial condition, is the stressor that takes you over the ABOVE Žƒ”‰‡Ž›ƒ‡–‡ơ‡ –‘ˆ‹ ”‡ƒ•‡† ‡–”ƒŽ edge that you skirt in warmer water Lung squeeze is the damage or injury to the lungs due t0 blood volume, pressures within the exposures. IPE is most likely to appear increased environmental pressure on the closed gas spaces of the chest and, for compressed-gas divers, when multiple predisposing factors are lungs during breath-hold diving increased breathing resistance. The acting in concert. You may have found squeeze is a primary component, your own threshold. but only part of the story. Immersion I encourage you to consult with your DAN Tip produces a shift in blood from the medical monitors, keeping in mind that ’‡”‹’Š‡”›–‘–Š‡ ‘”‡ǡƒ†–Š‹•‡ơ‡ – the classic squeeze is not the only risk For more Diving Health & Safety Resources, including ƒ„‡ƒ‰‹Ƥ‡†‹ ‘Ž†™ƒ–‡”‘” that freedivers face. DAN Doc, visit “Diving Safety” partially replicated by wearing a at www.danap.org –‹‰Š–™‡–•—‹–Ǥš ‡••‹˜‡ƪ—‹†‹–ƒ‡ ȏ‡ƒŽǤ‘ŽŽ‘ ǡŠȐ

114 | DAN Why DAN?

+ 35+ Years + 24/7 + 150,000 + 2,000,000 Divers Emergency Emergency Members Helping Medical Calls Served Divers Services Managed Worldwide

Experience where it counts www.danap.org Stephen Frink

DiveTHE Slate KEYS TO OUR HEARTS

By Peter Buzzacott, MPH, PhD

A team of four researchers from DAN electrodes attached to the skin Immersion of the face alone travelled to the Florida Keys to meet must be properly sealed to obtain can lead to slowing of the with dive club members who had just good-quality signals. In clinical settings, heart rate via the so-called arrived on at a dive resort. EKGs are recorded while subjects rest to GLYLQJUHÀH[ Prior to the trip, many of the divers had avoid electrical signals that originate in consented to take part in an ongoing exercising muscles. In diving, a lot DAN study to record the heart rates of of muscle activity is involved that divers over age 40 while they dived. interferes with electrical signals from We recorded electrocardiograms the heart. Professor James Grierof North (EKGs) before, during and after dives. Dakota State University developed For continuous underwater recording of and tested procedures for underwater EKGs we used Holter monitoring devices recording of EKGs that minimise that we waterproofed in collaboration muscular interference. with a technician at the Duke Center for During diving, the pressure and Environmental associated with immersion and the Physiology. Unlike the chest-strap-type cooling of the skin cause blood to move heart-rate monitors, which record just away from the surface and limbs and to ABOVE the heartbeat, EKGs record electrical ’‘‘Ž‹–Š‡ ‡–”ƒŽ˜‡••‡Ž•ǡƒơ‡ –‹‰–Š‡ A DAN researcher records events that cause heartbeats and loading of the heart. This changes the an electrocardiogram (EKG) of a diver during a cardiac provide insight into possible causes way our hearts beat. Immersion of the health study of divers over 40 of rhythm anomalies (dysrhythmia) if face alone can lead to slowing of the RIGHT they occur. Š‡ƒ”–”ƒ–‡˜‹ƒ–Š‡•‘Ǧ ƒŽŽ‡††‹˜‹‰”‡ƪ‡šǤ The DAN team recorded EKGs before, during and Water, especially saltwater, changes Despite many studies, the resulting after dives how electrical signals travel, so the ‡ơ‡ –•‘ˆ–Š‡ ‘„‹ƒ–‹‘‘ˆ–Š‡•‡

116 | DAN Research, Education & Medicine

factors are still not well understood, study, each participant lay down on a • Gearing up for the dive and entering but there is suspicion that they increase cot and underwent a baseline recording –Š‡™ƒ–‡”‹ ”‡ƒ•‡†‹˜‡”•ǯŠ‡ƒ”– the risk of dysrhythmia while diving, via a 12-lead EKG, which is the sort rates, sometimes approaching the which in extreme cases may lead to ›‘—™‘—Ž†Ƥ†‹ƒŠ‘•’‹–ƒŽǤƒ Š ƒš‹—ˆ‘”ƒ†‹˜‡”ǯ•ƒ‰‡Ǥ deadly heart dysfunction. Our study participant wore a smaller three-lead • Once we are underwater, our hearts explores the occurrence and nature of EKG underwater during two dives, had slow down. The heart rate is only one dysrhythmia while diving and possible another 12-lead EKG recording made indicator of heart strain, and a lower predictive factors. during the dive trip on a non-diving day heart rate does not necessarily mean ‹ ‡‹–‹•‡‹–Š‡” ‘•–‡ơ‡ –‹˜‡‘” ƒ†–Š‡—†‡”™‡–‘‡ƤƒŽ͕͖ǦŽ‡ƒ† less strain on the heart muscle. practical to send a team to recruit one EKG recording at the end of the trip. • Moving our arms around, not being or two divers at a time, DAN Research DAN researchers are now streamlined and not moving slowly sought opportunities to join dive clubs performing detailed analysis of the •—„•–ƒ–‹ƒŽŽ›‹ ”‡ƒ•‡†‹˜‡”•ǯŠ‡ƒ”– on trips in which at least 15 divers would †ƒ–ƒƒ•–Š‡›’”‡’ƒ”‡–‘™”‹–‡–Š‡‹”Ƥ”•– rates and also increase interfering volunteer to participate in the study. • ‹‡–‹Ƥ ’ƒ’‡”‘–Š‹••–—†›‹–Š‡ electrical signals from the muscles. The latest trip took place in Key coming months. A few early results • At the end of the dive, the heart rate ƒ”‰‘ǡ Ž‘”‹†ƒǤ–Š‡Ƥ”•–†ƒ›‘ˆ–Š‡ are apparent. increases again while the diver exits the water.

An in-depth analysis of the EKGs will look for various rhythm anomalies, their nature and how often they occur. Meanwhile, tips for reducing stress on the heart during dive days include the following:

• Take your time gearing up, and have someone pass non-essential equipment (such as cameras) to you after you are in the water. • Make sure you are correctly weighted; otherwise you will displace more water to become neutrally buoyant, and it will take more work to move through the water. • Streamline your gear, and minimise unnecessary arm movements. • Try to be horizontal when moving forward through the water; this •‹‰‹Ƥ ƒ–Ž›”‡†— ‡•–Š‡™‘”‘ˆ moving, which directly translates to workload on your heart. • Keep an eye on your compass, and try to surface near your boat or the exit at the end of the dive to avoid long surface swims. • When possible, leave non-essential equipment (such as cameras) topside rather than leaving them clipped to your buoyancy compensator. •  ‡›‘—ǯ”‡‘—–‘ˆ–Š‡™ƒ–‡”ǡ•‹– Stephen Frink down, relax and take a minute to ”‡ƪ‡ –—’‘›‘—”†‹˜‡ǤŠ‹•ƒŽŽ‘™• your heart a few moments to return to normal.

117 | DAN DON’T MISS A SINGLE ISSUE!

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More than just a dive show seen many awards from the Media Publishers Association of Singapore (MPAS): Exhibition of ASIA DIVE EXPO the Year 2017 (Gold), Conference/Exhibition of the Year 2015, and Event/Party of the Year 2015 (Merit). Under UW360, ADEX has furthered its reach beyond Asia’s biggest dive expo reached a new milestone Singapore, expanding to the Great China Region with this year. Following a stellar track record, ADEX, ADEX Beijing, Shenzhen, and Shanghai. or Asia Dive Expo, has received one of the most As an advocate for conservation, ADEX hosts prestigious awards in the industry – Best Exhibition ƒ›•’‡ƒ‡”•ˆ”‘˜ƒ”›‹‰ ‹” Ž‡•‹–Š‡Ƥ‡Ž†‘ˆ Organiser under the Experience Excellence (MICE) conservation. Marine scientists gather to discuss category at the Singapore Tourism Awards 2018. The contemporary marine and dive issues, from the

EXHIBITION Singapore Tourism Awards show brings together „ƒ•‹ •‘ˆ Ž‹ƒ–‡ Šƒ‰‡–‘–Š‡—ˆ‘”‡•‡‡‡ơ‡ –• OF THE YEAR Singapore’s tourism sector to celebrate individuals our seemingly innocuous actions can have on marine 2017 (GOLD) and organisations that best deliver exceptional life. Marine biologists and conservationists also experiences and achieve enterprise excellence. ‰‹˜‡–ƒŽ•‘–Š‡‹”‡š’‡”‹‡ ‡•‹–Š‡Ƥ‡Ž†ƒ†Š‘™ Twenty-nine individuals and organisations were they relate to marine conservation and the onset of recognised at the prestigious award ceremony held climate change, as well as sharing videos they have CONFERENCE/ EXHIBITION at Fairmont Singapore in May 2018, which was graced made about their unique encounters with marine life. OF THE YEAR 2015 by the President of Singapore, Halimah Yacob. Our best tool against climate change is education, Approaching its silver jubilee, ADEX has brought and these activities enable the community to educate divers together for the past 24 years and evolved themselves on climate change and how they can do beyond its origins as a dive show – it is now one of their parts as individuals to protect the ocean. EVENT/PARTY OF THE YEAR •‹ƒǯ•Ž‡ƒ†‡”•‹–Š‡Ƥ‰Š–ˆ‘”–Š‡‘ ‡ƒǤŠ‡†‹˜‡ ADEX celebrates its silver jubilee next year with 2015 (MERIT) expo, originating in Singapore, serves as a platform ADEX 2019, its 25th iteration. Join us in this joyous for divers to congregate and share their underwater celebration of the ocean. SDAA

experiences, but more importantly, it provides a conducive environment for ocean lovers to learn about how they can protect marine life. Furthermore, ADEX provides an avenue for COMING IN JULY businesses and organisations – dive operators, VOICE OF THE OCEAN equipment manufacturers, and national tourism As the importance of the oceans fade amidst the hustle and boards – to spread the message of responsible bustle of life, Asian Diver endeavours to be its mouthpieace, stewardship of the ocean. bringing its voice to life with underwater tales that are yet The Underwater360 group (UW360), founded to be told. by John Thet, has run the event for the past nine Subscribe today so you don’t miss your copy! ABOVE years, breaking attendance records year on year www.uw360.asia/shop The opening ceremony of since, with this year’s attendance reaching 62,079 ADEX 2017 guests. Asia’s longest-running dive expo has also

120| SDAA © Stan Gonia APRIL 11–14, 2019 SUNTEC SINGAPORE

CELEBRATING 25 YEARS OF MARINE ART & SCIENCE

DEDICAATTEEDD TO THE OCEEAA NN

FOR A PLASTIC-FREE FUTURE www.adex.asia