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Speak, Memory MAY 2008 www.passportmagazine.ru Speak, Memory the museum issue advertising Contents 4 Goings On Editor’s Choice This Month in History Film, Books, and Music 6 May in Russian History 10 Travel Neil McGowan goes to Lake Baikal 12 Day Out in Moscow Ian Mitchell finds Yuri Trifonov’s House on the Embankment 14 Notes from the Underground Ray Nayler on the metro’s Light Blue Line and the monorail 16 Art History Olga Slobodkina-von Brommsen on the ace up Vladimir Nemukhin’s sleeve 18 Museum Musings Tatyana Metaxa of the State Museum of Oriental Arts talks to Passport In Winzavod Veritas: The truth about the wine factory turned arts complex Irina Stroeva reviews a landmark exhibit at the Royal Academy VDNKh: Ian Mitchell looks in on the sprawling Soviet-era spectacle Ray Nayler on Offbeat Museums Vladimir Kozlov on Zurab Tsereteli Essay: Speak, Memory 30 Rebuilding Russia James Brooke explores Moscow-City 34 Wine & Dine Supermarket wines Soho Rooms Chatting with Swissotel’s chef Grand Havana Room in Moscow 44 Listings 46 Community Paying Lipp service to new coffeehouses Fred Flintstone on catching a cab in Moscow Ross Hunter on the merits of two feet and two wheels 52 Out & About 56 The Last Word British journalist Helen Womack Letter from the Publisher As May rolls around, there’s a lot to look forward to: The crocuses and tulips are starting to bud and the sodden ground of the construction site that is Moscow is beginning to dry out, leaving navigable strips of mud-free terrain. If that’s not reason enough to celebrate, May holds some important dates in store. On May 9, Victory Day, Russia will commemorate the Allied defeat of Nazi Germany. On May 18, Russia will observe Museum Day, when admission to the country’s myriad museums is free. In honor of these holidays, Passport has dedicated its May issue art, inspiration, and memory. Sit down and chat, for example, with Tatyana Metaxa of the State Museum of Oriental Art (page 18) or hear from artist Zurab Tsereteli and then meander through the exhibits at Winzavod (page 20). Stroll the grounds of VDNKh with Ian Mitchell (page 24) or let him help you find Yuri Trifonov’s House on the Embankment (page 12). Arts and community editor Alevtina Kashitsina recommends some choices for estate-mu- seum destinations (page 5), and Ray Nayler spotlights a few of Moscow’s many small, offbeat museums (page 26). Also, it turns out this issue has a strange fixation on urban transport — you’ll get advice on navigating the city by foot, bicycle, and taxi (pages 48-49), plus the next installment of the Moscow metro series (page 14). And when you’re done, you can go jump in the lake (Baikal, page 10). Plus good wines at supermarket prices (page 34), and where to get a nice cup of coffee (page 46, go on, it’ll help you sober up after all that supermarket wine). In short, we’ve got something for everyone in this issue, so we hope that you’ll find a muse — or at least amusement — in these pages! John Ortega Owner and Publisher Do you have a story you’d like to tell? Do you have a story you’d like to read? Passport wants to hear from you! Send comments, ideas, suggestions, requests, etc. to [email protected] Owner and Publisher Designer Accounting and Legal Services John Ortega, +7 (985) 784-2834 Andrey Vodenikov Vista Foreign Business Support [email protected] [email protected] Trubnaya St. 25/1, Moscow +7 (495) 933-7822 Editor Copy Editor Contributors Isabelle Hale Linda Lippner M. Rosaria Boccuni, Charles Borden, Maria Barleben, [email protected] Photographers James Brooke, Ross Hunter, Daniel Klein, Linda Lippner, Deputy Editor Vladimir Kozlov, Claire Marsden, Neil McGowan, Olga Anna Kulyagina Alex Gorov, Alevtina Kashitsina, Sergei Koshkin, Alexei Zhukov, Mironenko, Ian Mitchell, Ray Nayler, [email protected] Olga Slobodkina-von Bromssen, Irina Stoyeva . Arts & Community Editor Webmaster Alevtina Kashitsina Alexey Timokhin [email protected] [email protected] Editorial Address: Published by OOO Passport Magazine. All rights reserved. 42 Volgogradsky Prospekt, Bldg. 23 This publication is registered by the Press Ministry No. 77- Office 013. 1st floor 18639. 08.10.04 109316 Moscow, Russia Tel. +7 (495) 620-0888 Printed by Mozhaysky Poligrafichesky Kombinat 93 Mir Street, 143200 Mozhaysk, Russia Tel/ Fax: (495) 221-2677 www.passportmagazine.ru 2 April 2008 MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY DANCE BALLET !Viva Espana! Swan Lake By P. Tchaikovsky International Festival of Spanish EASTER FESTIVAL CLASSICAL MUSIC Music, Estrada Theater, 19:00 Bolshoi Theater 19:00 Mariinsky Theater Orchestra and Anna Netrebko Gala 1ART EXHIBITION 2 3 soloists 4concert SPORTS, FOOTBALL Conductor: Valery Gergiev Grand Hall of Conservatory History viewed by KuKryNikSy. Russian national championship 1928 – 1945. Graphics and paintings Grand Hall of Conservatory 19:00 CSKA (Moscow) vs. Zenit (St, 19:00 Tsaritsyno mansion Petersburg) 10:00 – 18:00 except Monday. Luzhniki Grand Palace of Sport Through May 24 19:00 EASTER FESTIVAL THEATER FESTIVAL OPERA Tartuffe (in Russian) DANCE Mdzlevari Youth Ensemble Pskovityanka BALLET Lenkom Theater Prix Benois de la Danse BALLET VICTORY DAY (Georgia) By N. Rimsky-Korsakov Sleeping Beauty 19:00 Nominees’ gala concert Nikolay’s Tsiskaridze performance 5Artistic director 6 7Stanislavsky and Nemirovich- 8 9 10P. Tchaikovsky 11 Bolshoi Theater Bolshoi Theater Parade on Red Square Kaha Onashvili Danchenko Musical Theater State Kremlin Palace MUSIC Also on May 7 19:00 10:00 Center of P. Slobodkin 19:00 19:00 Natalya Bannova and others 19:00 19:00 Victory Day Concert INAUGURATION DAY Tchaikovsky Concert Hall 19:00 CLASSICAL MUSIC “Voices of the World” series OPERA Jasmin Levi La Boheme OPERA JAZZ By G. Puccini THEATER ROCK MUSIC International House of Music, 19:00 ROCK MUSIC Tsar’s Bride ”Jazz Olymp. Primadonnas” Series Moscow Stanislavsky and Twelfth Night (in Russian) Deus EXPO Joe Cocker (US) 12by N. Rimsky-Korsakov 13 14 15 16Nina Frilon (US) 17 18Nemirovich-Danchenko Ermolova Theater B1 Maximum MITF (Moscow International Tourist Fair) State Kremlin Palace Galina Vishnevskaya Opera International House of Music Musical Theater 19:00 21:00 Gostiny Dvor 19:00 Center, 19:00 19:00 19:00 through May 18 10:00 – 18:00 MUSEUM DAY www.mitf.ru POPULAR MUSIC EXPO Back Street Boys “New Russian Style 2008” (jewelry, Olimpisky Sports Complex watches, gifts) THEATER THEATER 19:00 Gostiny Dvor ROCK MUSIC ROCK MUSIC FOR KIDS 19Ladies’ Night (in Russian) 20Ladies’ Night (in Russian) 21 22Open: 10:00 – 18:00 23Brainstorm (Latvia) 24Kiss (USA) 25Dolphin Show Mossovet Theater Mossovet Theater SPORTS, FOOTBALL Through May 25 Apelsin Club Olimpisky Sports Complex Moscow Dolphinarium 19:00 19:00 League of Champions fi nals ROCK MUSIC 20:00 19:00 16:00 Luzhniki Sports Complex. 19:00 Zucchero (Italy) League of Champions Fest on Red State Kremlin Palace Square 19:00 POPULAR MUSIC BALLET EXPO EXPO Lara Fabian OPERA Don Quixote Industry of Frost ROCK Techtextil Russia 2008 Estrada Theater Premiere By L. Minkus Frozen products, technologies, Nochnye Snaipery (Russia) 26 27Crocus Expo 28 2919:00 30 31The Mermaid Moscow Stanislavsky and transport Gorky Moscow Art Theater Open: 10:00 – 18:00 By A. Dvorak Nemirovich-Danchenko Crocus Expo POPULAR MUSIC (MKhAT im. Gorkogo) Through May 29 Helikon Opera Musical Theater Through May 29 Dima Bilan (Russia) 19:00 www.crocus-expo.ru 19:00 19:00 10:00 – 19:00 Mytischi Arena 19:00 Editor’s Choice Prix Benois de la Danse he international dance festival Prix Benois de la Danse is back in Moscow this spring. The festival Tbegan at the Bolshoi Theater in the early 1990s and was hosted in subsequent years by different European capitals, with its fifth anniversary celebrated at the UNESCO palace in Paris. This year’s festival highlights the achievements of modern dance in Russia, inviting representatives of various dance schools that have contributed to the development of Russian choreography. It is also a means to raise funds to support retired dancers who have been influential in the area of modern dance. The program this year includes a concert by the nominees and, of course, a celebration of the award winners. On the second day, a charity gala concert of last year’s Benois laureates will take place. Stars from American Ballet Theater, Teatro Argentino, the Monte Carlo Ballet, the State Berlin Ballet, the Royal Ballet, New National Theater (Tokyo), the Mariinsky Theater, the Paris National Opera, and Bolshoi Theater, May 6 & 7, 19:00 the Munich Ballet will be performing at the Bolshoi Theater. www.benois.theatre.ru Alexander Gindin: Triumph of the Grand Piano lexander Gindin is one of the most talented pianists of his generation. At 17, he won the pres- Atigious Tchaikovsky Competition and two years later was a soloist with the Moscow Philhar- monic. The 30-year-old graduate of the Moscow Conservatory is a member of the faculty there and performs all over the world. For his Moscow concert, Gindin will present a musical program the highlight of which will be the Grieg piano concerto, written when the Norwegian composer was only 26. The Grieg concerto will be framed by two compositions, one by Grieg and another by Alfred Schnittke, based on Peer Gynt by Norwegian playwright Henrik Ibsen. May 29, International House of Music, 19:00 Summertime, and the listenin’ is easy eorge Gershwin’s Porgy and Bess was last performed in Moscow in 1951. This month Gthe strains of the 1935 opera will once again be heard in Russia as Living Arts, Inc. presents performances in Moscow and St.
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