N. 27 | JULY 2020 SUPPLEMENT OF BARTALES

LIQUID STORY / FAMILY JEWELS A POT STILL BAR STORY / PEGU AND THREE DISTILLERIES COLONIAL FLAVOUR

HOT SPIRIT / TRELAWNY RUM HOT SPIRIT / INDIAN SWEET JAMAICA MIXTURE FROM OVER THE SEAS

BAR TOUR / DRINKING EUROPE FOCUS ON / THE TEARS TOP TEN NORTH WIND DUTCH COURAGE BAR EDITORIAL by Melania Guida TALES

A TEAM EFFORT

tarting 24 June, and seven years after the release of the first issue of Bar- Tales, the Chinese edition of our magazine is now online. This was a great challenge – an attempt at considering what until a few months ago was unthinkable. Another “younger brother”, following the Spanish edition of Sour “Best of Bartales”. With hindsight, and fingers crossed, we put our experience to good use while riding the long wave of this crisis. This is the real meaning of hard times: attempting to turn hardship to your advantage, turning a disadvantage into an opportunity and upping the ante. It’s a wager, of course, perhaps even a gamble and at such an uncertain time. But it’s in these game-changing moments, we told ourselves, and during the hardest, that we have to pull out all the stops. “When the going gets tough, the tough get going”, in the words of that genius, John Belushi. It’s a statement that’s made history. We’ve borrowed it too – don’t hold it against us, John – for the launch of our next adventure: the Mandarin edition. It’s not use denying that there’s a touch of tension and some light-headedness. But this is also what pushed us along, fuelled us, as well as the desire to keep looking ahead. We’re making no predications; we’ll talk about it after the summer. In the meantime, enjoy the summer holidays.

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N. 27 | JULY 2020

executive editor digital edition by Melania Guida SKILL LAB srl ([email protected]) ([email protected]) staff editor Fabio Bacchi Registrazione. n. 35 del 8/7/2013 Tribunale di Napoli ([email protected]) www.bartales.it art director Cinzia Marotta © copyright BARTALES - All rights reserved. No part of this ([email protected]) publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means. Any violation will be persecuted according to law. contributor Alessandro Palanca, Luca Rapetti, Giuseppe Anyone with a claim on the copyright of unidentified Statico, Theodora Sutcliffe pictures please contact Bartales

translation by LMP International - Lonato (BS) Italy DRINK RESPONSIBLY

July 2020 3 liquid story FAMILY JEWELS

on an entrepreneurial adventure, placing his first pot still in a building between the homes of the village of Silvano d’Orba, more specifically in via Roma, where the distillery is still found today. One hundred A POT STILL and fifty years have passed since then, but the old bain marie pot still, the coat of arms, and the cellar with vaulted walls dating back to the Middle Ages, still give AND THREE DISTILLERIES this small location a certain charm from another era. The (unique) story of the Gualcos The founder’s eldest child, Paolo II, was destined to continue the family business. among entrepreneurial endeavours He had been part of Garibaldi’s troops and made a name for himself during the battle factories of the Genoa, Milan and Turin and intertwining generations of Aspromonte, in Calabria. On his return triangle started. as a hero, he was elected town mayor and This vigour also had positive conse- BY GIUSEPPE STATICO took over management of the distillery. quences on the small village of Silvano Finally united as a nation, Italy grew in d’Orba, whose population reached 3,000 economic vigour like never before. Cus- inhabitants. Naturally there were prob- his is the story of a small distillery of Monferrato to repair casks, carry out toms barriers fell between states and lems, but Paolo II was one accustomed to founded in 1870 by Gualco Paolo other manual jobs for farmers and allow smaller states, lines of communication overcoming difficulties. The valley was the I in the heart of one of the most his own mobile winepress to be used for between north and south strengthened, natural route for goods coming from the Tindustrious areas of Piedmont. Un- winemaking.One day he decided to stop markets opened that until that time had ports of Genoa and Savona to Piedmont, til that time, Paolo Gualco’s life consist- and make his business a stable one. With been inaccessible, and the industriali- and from there to the rest of Europe. ed of travelling between the farmhouses the help of his two sons he embarked up- sation that led to the birth of the large The outbreak of the Great War did not

4 July 2020 July 2020 5 II. Duilio, who had a diploma in oenology from the school of Alba, moved to Argen- tina to the city of Mendoza. Thanks to his studies, Duilio was given the opportunity to become the director of a major local winery. He also found love and married Elvira Montenegro Ortiz, a young lady from an excellent family and with whom he had three children (Paolo IV, Susanna and Maria). The economic crisis of 1929 that spilled into the 1930s, as well as a deep yearning for his country, convinced Duilio to return to Italy with his family in 1934. He never received the support of his wife in this decision however, as she always leave Silvano d’Orba untouched by cata- longed for her country of birth. Reunited strophic consequences. One of the most with his father, Duilio started working at significant was the mass migration to the the family distillery, which had not stopped Americas that deprived the town of its production. In the meantime, the new Ital- best resources. ian regime consolidated its power, started Among the town’s inhabitants, who its African exploits with the Ethiopian co- decided to make a life for himself else- lonial war and passed the notorious racial where, was Duilio Gualco, son of Paolo laws of 1938.

6 July 2020 ORIGINS ON THIS PAGE SOME PHOTOS OF SUSANNA SOLDATINI. BELOW, THE LICENCE OF DISTILLERIA GUALCO.

Aperitiv Del Professe APERITIVO&TONIC As we know, following German occupa- • 5 cl Aperitivo Del Professore tion of France, Italy became involved in the massive catastrophe of World War II. The • 15 cl tonic water bombings, raids, hardships, civil war and • lemon zes. appropriations did not fail to touch the Pour the two ingredients entire valley of the Orba river, as well as into a glass full of ice, the small municipality of Silvano d’Orba. mix and garnish with lemon zes. Many partisans were imprisoned in the town’s prison. Following the armistice, there was a lack of established order and the area was also the scene of the well- neighbour, Giovanni, who in an attempt known “resentment” movement and swift to comfort him said in the local dialect: vendettas that wrote some of the darkest “Look, Duilio, you don’t remember this but pages of Italian history. Duilio abandoned before you fled you gave me a demijohn of the distillery and it was requisitioned by grappa which I have kept in my basement. the partisans. It is yours, of course.” Fifty-four litres of After the war Duilio legitimately re- grappa were stored in that demijohn. From gained ownership of the distillery. All its those few litres of grappa, Duilio regained plants had been damaged, however, and the strength to start again. every bottle of grappa taken. Desperate With Duilio growing older and his due to financial ruin, Duilio saw no way out daughter’s departure for Genoa, the distill- except to abandon the distillery to its fate. ery was first sold and thereafter stopped Legend now follows what up to that production during the seventies. But it point is confirmed history. The story goes was Susanna herself who took over the that powerless before his semi-destroyed company. distillery, Duilio was approached by his We must take a step back, though. As

DRINK RESPONSIBLY DRINK Tradition, terroir, people delprofessore.it July 2020 9 of Matteo I), then to Matteo II and lastly Benito (great grandson of Matteo I), who then closed it. The third Gualco branch takes us to Bartolomeo Gualco, son of Matteo I and gained from her father, Duilio, Susanna Duilio’s cousin. Bartolomeo too, who like soon became a great expert in distilling. his father was excluded from the distill- When Bartolomeo died with no heirs ery’s inheritance, emigrated to Argentina of his own, he left everything to Susanna, to work as a taxi driver. He returned to whom he believed to be the most suitable Italy to work with his uncle Paolo II, but person to continue with the business. In upon Duilio’s return (the rightful heir), in that moment, Susanna Gualco Maestrini 1934 he established the “Distilleria Gual- found herself heir to the three branches co Bartolomeo” in via XX Settembre, also of Gualco distillers from Silvano d’Orba. in Silvano d’Orba. Many illustrious sporting, political and TV Bartolomeo was a great creator of personalities were among her customers: quality grappa, who also educated his Fausto Coppi, Gino Bartali, Andrea Cafiea, PRODUCTION AT THE TOP, THE customers on good drinking before their Gigi Radice, Arrigo Sacchi, Alberto Lupo, STORE, AND purchase. His notoriety led to him being Lella Costa, and many others. Susanna ABOVE, ALESSANDRO known as “the grappa wizard”. Bartolomeo was later joined by her son, Alessandro. SOLDATINI. came up with strange names for his grap- Today, the distillery is led by the sixth pa (Suauitas, Supeila, Mandamara), as generation, Giorgio and Marcella, Ales- GRAPPA well as “Grappa senza nome” (No name sandro’s children. IN THE PHOTOS, BARTOLOMEO grappa), which still has the same name As a result of this history and the grap- GUALCO. ABOVE we know the founder had two children. today. pa tradition of the town, the municipal ad- “GRAPPA We already know about Paolo II; the oth- Now let’s go back to Susanna, Duilio’s ministration of Silvano d’Orba has drafted SENZA NOME”. er was Matteo I, who had been denied daughter, who was born in Argentina in a regulation for the production of “Grappa of any inheritance from the distillery. He 1925. She married a young liquor mer- a Denominazione Comunale” (Municipal was an enterprising youngster, and also a chant, Marcello Soldatini, who used to buy Denomination Grappa), which defines the breeder of silkworms, who in the interim grappa from her father. Susanna then left rules required to obtain the quality that had started a second branch of Gualco her job as a teacher to work alongside her has always been a characteristic of Sil- distillers, also at Silvano d’Orba. Matteo husband in selling liquor. When her hus- vano d’Orba’s grappa. The long history founded a second business, the “Distill- band died, Susanna returned to Silvano of this jewel of the Italian spirit industry eria Gualco Matteo”. From father to son, d’Orba and joined her uncle Bartolomeo at continues. this distillery went first to Paolo III (son the distillery. With the knowledge she had Giuseppe Statico

10 July 2020 July 2020 11 bar story PEGU

COCKTAILS ON THE FIRST PAGE, THE PEGU CLUB IN one of the most influential personalities it from the coast. When the English con- 1882. in international bartending, Audrey Saun- quered it in 1852, after only ten years ABOVE, AUDREY SAUNDERS ders, who 15 years ago opened her cock- they established the province of British AND THE PEGU COLONIAL FLAVOUR COCKTAIL. tail bar, Pegu Club, in New York City. Burma, which would be part of the colony The story of the Pegu Club Cocktail is of British India. The Rangoon club that made history strongly linked to the colonial expansion Just 90 kilometres south west of Bago of the United Kingdom, more specifically is Yangon, at the time known as Rangoon, Loved by the King of England and when the English troops moved into the which was named by the English them- southern parts of the Asian continent. selves as the capital of the province of Rudyard Kipling The city of Bago was located in southern Burma. As the main urban centre of the Myanmar and during its history it played region and strategic base for the colonial DI LUCA RAPETTI an important role as an urban centre and army, Rangoon had a large English pres- sea port given its link to the coast thanks ence from the early days of its takeover. to its river channels. Army officials would meet every day to he favourite cocktail of Pegu readers of his “The Savoy Cocktail Book”: In the 1500s it was often visited by discuss government plans, organise expe- Club, Burma, and one that a simple and refreshing drink made from European expeditions that celebrated its ditions and plan the development of the has travelled, and is asked gin, curaçao, lime juice, Angostura and magnificence. Nevertheless, at the start city. In the absence of a place where they for, round the world”. This orange bitters. A drink that survived the of the 19th century, Bago lost its strate- could meet and enjoy some leisure time “Tbrief description is how Harry Craddock entire 20th century with an unchanged gic importance due to a change in the like they often did in England, in 1871 presented the Pegu Club Cocktail to the recipe, later becoming the inspiration for course of its main river, which isolated they founded the Pegu Club in Cheape

12 July 2020 July 2020 13 PLACES RIGHT, THE SHWEDAGON PAGODA. BELOW, THE PEGU CLUB IN 1910 AND ITS LOGO.

Road, which is now known as Ma Naw and the strict rules of the club allowed club, although of its 350 effective mem- Hari Street. access exclusively to “white men”, while bers just a few years after opening, only Given its growing number of members, the local population was solely employed 25 lived at the club permanently. in 1882 the club was relocated to the to serve at the club. It had great halls for playing cards, area encircled by Pyay Road, Padonmar In that regard, as found in a document reading rooms and a billiard area with as and Zagawar Street, a little further south from 1910, “all gentlemen interested in many as four tables. There was also an of the Shwedagon Pagoda. Here the club’s general society are [were] eligible” to be external area for playing tennis, although building was built mainly from teak, the club members. This later resulted in its sport in general was not considered one local wood frequently used in construction members being only army officials and of the main recreational pass times at due to its high resistance and durability. certain English businessmen, who had the club. The structure was built over two floors moved to Rangoon. It was a “residential” Towards the end of the 1800s the pop- ularity of the club increased even more. Prestigious personalities were often invit- ed to attend gala dinners and events, in this way experiencing the banal lifestyle that was breathed at the Pegu Club. In 1889, a young Rudyard Kipling was HISTORY guest at the club for one day and provid- IN THE TOP ed this interesting description: “The Pegu quisite mutton, as it was greatly enjoyed PHOTO, RUDYARD Club seemed to be full of men on their way by the English. KIPLING. IN THE MIDDLE, THE up or down”, which gives an idea of just In 1922, the then Prince of Wales and PRINCE OF WALES GREAT how busy the club was in its daily activity. future King of England, Edward VIII, found HALL. ABOVE, In his account Kipling also stated that himself in India for a tour of the British THE RECIPE IN “ABC OF the Pegu Club was the only place in Ran- colonies and travelled to the province of MIXING COCKTAILS”. goon where it was possible to taste ex- Burma. Naturally he stopped at Rangoon

14 July 2020 July 2020 15 Vermouth di Tin Classic Del Professe

VERMOUTH & SODA 5 cl di Vermouth Classico Del Professore, was published and inside it, among the a top of ice-cold soda, lemon zest. hundreds of recipes, was a recipe for the Serve on its own or over ice. Pegu Club Cocktail made with “1 dash Angostura bitter, 1 dash Orange bitter, 1 RECIPES teaspoonful of Rose’s Lime Juice, 1/6 Or- FROM THE TOP: PIERO ange Curaçao, 2/3 Gin”. The dose of the GRANDI’S various ingredients, especially the limited RECIPE (1927); THE RECIPE amount of lime juice, leads us to think FROM “ODELL'S BOOK OF that the drink undoubtedly was mainly dry, COCKTAILS AND FANCY DRINKS” made slightly more aromatic both by the (1933); WILLIAM two bitters as well as the orange curaçao, BOOTHBY’S even in its small quantity. RECIPE (1934) AND THE ONE to visit the local people, the famous pa- It seems the structure of the drink was FROM THE SAVOY (1930). goda and other important places. A gala based on a combination of Gimlet (a reci- dinner in his honour was organised at pe MacElhone himself featured specifying the Pegu Club, which a year earlier had that it was very popular in the navy) and a opened a new wing of the club called the gin cocktail. Although there were various “Prince of Wales Great Hall”, dedicated interpretations of the gin cocktail before to the English royal who was to soon visit and at the time of MacElhone, generally the club. it was made of gin to which the two types It was in that year too that a subse- of bitters already mentioned were added. quent edition of the manual “ABC of Some bartenders would also add a small Mixing Cocktails” by Harry MacElhone dose of curaçao. DRINK RESPONSIBLY DRINK Tradition, terroir, people 16 July 2020 delprofessore.it NEWSPAPERS AT THE TOP, THE ARTICLE FROM THE BALTIMORE AFRO AMERICAN, 1937. LEFT, THE ARTICLE FROM THE TIMES OF INDIA, 1883.

Just five years after MacElhone’s book The Pegu Club Cocktail was the favour- was published, Italian Piero Grandi also ite at the club of the same name, situated included the recipe of the Pegu Club Cock- in the province of Burma; a cocktail that tail in his recipe book, “Cocktails”. Since travelled and was requested all around Grandi had taken a large part of MacEl- the world. hone’s recipes, the Pegu Club Cocktail The international reach of the Pegu recipe was in fact unvaried and he also Club Cocktail was also confirmed in 1933, recommended the use of “Rose’s lime when the manual “Odell’s Book juice”. of Cocktails and Fancy Drinks” included When Craddock wrote his “The Savoy Craddock’s recipe as no. 183, mentioning Cocktail Book” in 1930, he modified the both the English and Japanese versions. recipe slightly by increasing the quantity of A year later, William T. Boothby published curaçao, taking it to 1/3 instead of MacEl- the updated version in his “The World’s hone’s original 1/6. This made the drink Drinks and How To Mix Them” and his slightly sweeter and aromatic. In addition, version of the Pegu Club Cocktail recipe he simply used lime juice without speci- used lemon juice instead of lime juice. fying whether or not it should be Rose’s. Boothby’s book is most likely how the The significance of Craddock including the Pegu Club became known in the United Pegu Club Cocktail is the description that States since there is no trace of it in pre- appeared with the recipe and that for the vious manuals, recipe books or articles. Gin Del Professe first time offered information on the origin In 1937, the Baltimore daily newspaper Produced in Piemonte from the finest natural ingredients, most of which are of the cocktail. “Baltimore Afro American” mentioned the harvested from the hills and mountains surrounding our distillery.

DRINK RESPONSIBLY DRINK delprofessore.it July 2020 19 PLACES THE PEGU CLUB BEFORE ITS RESTORATION.

achieve her entrepreneurial goal really started at the beginning of the ‘90s when she took her first steps in bartending, under the guiding hand of Dale DeGroff. Over the course of her career Saunders worked in a number of bars – Blackbird, Bemelmans Bar and Tonic – to name just a few. She had the opportunity to meet important people such as Sasha Petraske of Milk&Honey and Julie Reiner, who came from San Francisco for the opening of Flat- iron and with whom she forged a strong friendship. Saunder’s key opportunity came from the owners of Flatiron, who, thanks to Ju- lie Renier, approached Saunders and part- PEGU CLUB THE MENU AND Pegu Club Cocktail in its article entitled it almost completely disappeared from in- nered with her in opening a new cocktail A FEW IMAGES “Strictly Feminine”, where certain recom- ternational menus. At the start of the new bar. The choice of the name came from time – while the gin trend was undoubt- OF THE NEW YORK BAR. mendations were made to the female millennium in the United States, more pre- when Saunders worked at the Blackbird. edly one of the least popular. Saunder’s public. It suggested trying this cocktail cisely in New York, a young and talented The Pegu Club Cocktail was on its menu ambitious choice was the exact opposite: which “is the favourite at the Pegu Club, Audrey Saunders was preparing to open and immediately she was struck by its she wanted her bar to be a place where Burma, and is famous throughout the her Pegu Club in the neighbourhoods of balance and aroma, making it her favou- her friends, colleagues and customers world”. Despite that period of popularity Soho and Greenwich Village, on the sec- rite gin cocktail. could enjoy an excellent gin-based cock- mainly around the 1930s, the Pego Club ond floor of a building at 77 W Houston St. At the start of the 2000s, the majority tail, in an atmosphere that in some way Cocktail’s fame did not last long. The cocktail bar was opened in 2005, of New York cocktail bars offered a rich se- recalled the original Pegu Club. The bar During the second half of the century, but the journey that brought Saunders to lection of vodkas – it was the spirit of the was instantly successful. It quickly gained

20 July 2020 July 2020 21 PEOPLE IN THE PHOTOS, grazie DALE DEGROFF AND AUDREY SAUNDERS. to the world’s best bartenders and to all the vermouth lovers

a reputation at an international level and non-government organisation that works became one of those places where every towards the conservation of all structures bartender who came to New York had to and buildings from British colonial times. visit at least once. In 2018, the new Pegu Club was inau- International acclaim followed. At the gurated, bringing the original teak archi- Spirited Awards of 2007 it was declared tecture back to its splendid glory. But as the “World’s Best Cocktail Bar” and Au- one jewel of the past regained its sparkle, drey Saunders was awarded “International one of the most acclaimed and well-known Bartender of the Year”. In 2009 it was bars of the modern era announced the awarded “Best American Cocktail Bar” end of its journey, after exactly 15 years and in 2011 Saunders was named “Best of business. Bar Mentor” thanks to the contribution Audrey Saunders’ difficult decision not she had made to the bar industry in the to reopen her Pegu Club was announced course of her career. In addition, the Pegu on social media during the Covid-19 public Club was included in the “World’s 50 Best health emergency in the USA. This has #1 #1 Bars” for four consecutive years from been a time that has severely damaged 2009 until 2012. More recently, the orig- the bar sector, restaurants and hotels BEST Top inal Pegu Club of Yangon has undergone throughout the world, and that undoubt- selling vermouth trending vermouth significant renovation and enhancement edly did not help the survival of this bar. of its historical significance. History will keep the memory of what In its final days, it was used as a cen- the Pegu Club and its creator has done tre for government officials and army for our industry alive, in the same way 2020 Year of the Vermouth di Torino members and was later left completely that Saunders brought back the memory unused. Certain private investors started of her beloved Pegu Club Cocktail. working with the Yangon Heritage Trust, a Luca Rapetti BEBE CON RESPONSABILIDAD

22 July 2020 @GIULIOCOCCHI - WINERY IN COCCONATO ( ASTI) ITALY - WWW.COCCHI.COM

Cocchi Best 2020 Footer.indd 1 07/01/20 14:34 hot spirit

the production of grain-based alcohol re- mains a debated issue. As a result, other types of alcohol were used, a practice that MIXTURE FROM in truth, many local producers continue to make use of. Essentially, molasses alcohol is added OVER THE SEAS resulting in “” with only 10-15% cereal-based alcohol. We had to wait until the 1980s for things to change. Couplet barley and Goa’s climate The Amrut distillery, like its compet- itors, distilled a fermentation obtained make for exotic spirits. Very trendy from a cereal and molasses pulp. It was BY FABIO BACCHI at this stage that the president of Amrut, Neelakanta Jagdale, decided to focus on producing real whisky. to produce something that was more suit- cottish whisky arrived in India in 1820 founded the Kasauli distillery. Dyer In 1982 he came to an agreement with ed to the local market; and so “MaQintosh the 19th century following the in- imported the pot stills and made use of Indian farmers to obtain barley. At the end Premium Whisky” was born. It was only in fluence of the British; slowly and the abundant supply of water in the region. of the decade, Amrut had produced its 2004 that Amrut finally became persuad- not easily, since many of the local However, the production of grain-based al- first batch of single malt whiskies. How- ed and officially presented a new single Speople labelled it “foreign poison”. cohol was hampered by the fact that the ever, the internal demand for single malt malt, the first ever to be produced in In- The birth of locally-made Indian whisky cyclic lack of food in India has always led whisky was so low that this first batch was dia. What also convinced Amrut to produce is attributed to Briton Richard Dyer, who in to a scarcity of excess grains. Still today mixed with a sugar cane distillate in order single malts was the ability, thanks to the

24 July 2020 July 2020 25 WHISKY IN THE PHOTO, PAUL JOHN AND climate, to age the whisky in one-third of mentation to the Indian climate. THE ENTRANCE the time required for . The whiskies of Amrut and Paul John TO THE DISTILLERY. Amrut must be recognised for continu- have won numerous awards all over the ous innovation, like the famous “ghost bar- world, changing preconceived ideas of the rel”, which was a hybrid of new wood from experts on the variety of Indian whiskies America, France and Spain with ex-sherry and favouring their official entry onto the . But these days, Amrut is not the global market. Despite this, due to com- only distillery to produce quality whisky in mercial controversies with other spirit-pro- India. The Paul John distillery, located in ducing countries, India still bears the sta- SHALL WE MIX? Goa, launched its first single malt in 2012, tus almost as an “intruder” on the global www.varnelli.it adapting its procedures of malting and fer- market. Scotland, for example, challenges

DRINK RESPONSIBLY July 2020 27 Indian whisky “liquor of Indian origin” as lovers. The awards started coming and “an unacceptable imposition of British im- today the brand is found in 38 countries, perialism”. Today we can say that the sit- including Italy. uation is very different and Indian whisky In our country Paul John whisky ar- has its enthusiasts beyond the continent. rived thanks to the insight of Andrea Fofi, Founded in 1996, John Distilleries soon founder of the “Roma Whisky Festival”, became one of the main alco-bev compa- who came to know of it at Paris Whisky nies in India. In this case too, the idea to Live in 2015. produce spirits of a higher quality came Today Paul John is a brand within Ghilar- from the president of the distillery, Paul P di Selezioni. The brand offers five variants John, a great enthusiast of single malt. Fol- and occasionally releases limited editions. lowing intense research, he realised that All with an ABV over 46%, not cold filtered, premium single malts can be produced in with no added aromas or additives. STRUCTURES IN THE TOP PAUL JOHN India using indigenous ingredients, such After discontinuous the ag- PHOTO, THE ABOVE, as the local barley. The knowledge of mas- ing process of Paul John whiskies takes compared to the Scottish ones. PAUL JOHN MASTER VISITOR DISTILLER India on its very high taxation of import- ter distiller Michael D’souza was funda- place almost exclusively in ex-Bourbon Another fundamental factor is the tropi- CENTRE. MICHAEL ABOVE, INSIDE D’SOUZA. ed whiskies to encourage consumption of mental in this. barrels. Recently, sherry barrels were in- cal climate of Goa. The high temperatures THE DISTILLERY. local products; so much so that the asso- In the group’s portfolio there are ma- troduced, but only for special releases. cause the angel’s share of its whiskies to ciation of Scottish producers defined this ny brands such as Indian Whisky Original The peat is the only ingredient that is not be between 8% and 10% per year, versus practice effectively as a commercial pro- Choice, one of the best sellers in the local, and is imported from Scotland. Two 2% to 3% in Scotland. It is estimated that hibition. In the same way, Indian distillers popular segment of Indian whiskies, and types of peat are used: from Islay, which with the speed of aging that the local cli- accuse the European Union of creating its one of the 10 bestselling whiskies in the is strong and pungent and with a marked mate brings, 10 years of tropical aging own commercial barriers by prohibiting the world, with sales in excess of 11 million medicinal scent, and from Aberdeen, which equal 25 years of aging in Scotland. Con- sale of traditional molasses-based Indian 9 litres cases per year. The company is is more herbaceous and plant-based. firming the quality of these distillates is spirits as “whisky”. the fourth-largest spirits’ business in the The Indian couplet barley is distinctive. the attention they are garnering from fa- Vijay Mallya, the Indian magnate, who country. Its ear has six rows of seeds, while Eu- mous selectors and independent bottlers in 2007 purchased the Scottish whisky Paul John’s single malts were launched ropean barley has two. Indian barley is such as Gordon & Macfail and Cadenhead brand “Whyte & Mackay” and held it until in the United Kingdom in 2012 and im- therefore richer in proteins and fatty ac- of Scotland. 2013, defined the EU policy of labelling mediately piqued the interest of whisky ids, which results in spirits that are oilier Fabio Bacchi PAUL JOHN BRILLANCE SIN-

28 July 2020 July 2020 29 GLE PAUL JOHN BOLD Brilliance is the symbolic single malt whisky of the Paul A single malt with a decisive and energetic flavour, pe- John distillery. Produced using 100% Indian malt, unpea- ated with peat from Aberdeen. “One of the most weighty ted, it is distilled and aged in the tropical climate of Goa and chewable Indian Whisky of all times – yet it is not just in ex-bourbon casks. In his Whisky Bible 2017, Jim Murray about the peat”, Jim Murray Whisky Bible 2017. 95.5/100 stated, “It is impossible not to be impressed”. 94/100 Appearance: bright gold, with shades of amber. Appearance: golden Nose: honey immediately emerges, then spices and Nose: ethereal with notes of orange blossom, sweet butter, peat. lemon and spices. Palate: typically creamy, structured, spice and smoke, in Palate: creamy, fruity mango, warm and enveloping, notes perfect balance on the nose. Character and personality of liquorice and toasted wood. emerge. Finish: sweet, with warm toasted bread. Finish: long, persistent, luxurious. ABV: 46% ABV: 46%

PAUL JOHN EDITED SINGLE MALT WHISKY PAUL JOHN CLASSIC CASK SELECT SINGLE MALT WHI- “A new Indian Classic… to be precise a World Classic”. SKY These are the words used by Jim Murray to introduce A special bottling at full ABV, from the best ex-bourbon Paul John “Edited” single malt in Whisky Bible 2017. Paul casks of unpeated whisky produced by Paul John, bottled John “Edited” is slightly peated, using peat from Islay and at cask strength. “Further evidence that Indian Whisky Aberdeen that combined release an exceptional distinctive is on the rise”, Jim Murray, Whisky Bible 2017. 95/100. note. NAS. Appearance: amber shades. Appearance: shades of light amber and honey with pale, Nose: an essay of complexity. Intriguing notes of bacon pinkish hues. Thin and quick legs. mixed with tannins. The lightly salted bacon mixes easily Nose: The heat from the alcohol is softened by peat with the tannins. The barley has a vague hint of malt, smoke, notes of pineapple, coriander, coffee, green bar- delicate, flavourful and citrusy. ley, charred . Palate: a mix of honey and liquorice. The bold structure Palate: A complex palate, without being busy. Simultane- intensifies salivation, making it even more creamy. Busy ously smoky, spicy, and sweet. Fennel seed and turmeric, and complex. salted butter, caramel and toffee. Finish: significant, strong notes of demerara sugar. Finish: bright, sweet, and subtly smoky, medium intensity ABV: 55.2% and length, culminating with some dry cocoa notes. ABV: 46%

30 July 2020 July 2020 31 doydesign.it

PAUL JOHN PEATED CASK SELECT SINGLE MALT WHISKY A special bottling at full ABV. Peat from Islay and Aber- deen. “Peated Whisky from outside Islay rarely comes as complex and beautiful as this one…”, Jim Murray Whisky Bible 2017. 96/100. Appearance: intense gold. DRINK RESPONSIBLY Nose: walnuts, barley and classic notes of earthy peat, sea salt. Palate: smoke, earthy notes, tropical fruit and spices, chocolate. Complexity and evolution. Finish: the balance between sweet and peat is highlighted. ABV: 55.5%

PAUL JOHN KANYA SINGLE MALT WHISKY Chosen by Jim Murray as “Best Asian Whisky” of 2018 in Whisky Bible, Kanya is a limited edition aged for seven years. With rare complexity and an exquisitely balanced dryness, Kanya, in all its succulent charm, is perhaps one LUXARDO.IT of the smoothest Indian whiskies ever bottled. The name indicates the zodiac sign of Virgo. Appearance: golden with herbal shades @ LUXARDOOFFICIAL # WEARELUXARDO Nose: aromas of spices, citrus and tropical fruit. Palate: fruity hints, honey and a slight hint of spices. Creamy, caramel. Finish: satisfactory toasted oak with hot whiffs of spices, minimal hints of salt, memorable. ABV: 50.0% ORIGINALE SINCE 1821

PAUL JOHN NIRVANA SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY This unpeated single malt, expressly suitable for mixing, will be included in the Ghilardi Selezioni catalogue this year. Appearance: amber. Nose: soft caramel, vanilla, honey. Palate: exotically rich, fruity and lively. Apricot, raisins, honey and salted caramel. Finish: balanced, medium intensity, sweet. ABV: 40%.

32 July 2020 hot spirit TRELAWNY RUM SWEET JAMAICA Hampden and Long Pond produce the cru of the island’s rum Unique, very aromatic, for a story that is timeless BY ALESSANDRO PALANCA

JAMAICA A JAMAICAN CROCODILE. here is an area covered in tropical Initially colonised by Spain, it was with the apart thanks to its very aromatic rums these rums to be sold at significantly high- BELOW, AN OLD PRINT OF A forest that offers a refuge for rare arrival of the English in 1665 that sugar with a high percentage of esters. The tech- er prices on the market. JAMAICAN DISTILLERY species such as the last Jamaican cane farming developed and then sugar nique used at Hampden was immediately At the start of the 20th century, the FROM 1700. crocodiles and the giant yellow but- and rum production. adopted by other local distilleries. most well-known sugar estates with ad- THE PAGE ON THE LEFT, THE terfly.T It is a place with incredible biodi- At the start of the 1800s, more than It was in this way that a certain cate- joining distilleries were Long Pond, Hamp- ENTRANCE TO HAMPDEN. versity and that is home of some of the 100 small sugar estates with adjoining gory of Jamaican rums was born, which den, Vale Royal, Cambridge, Georgia and most famous sprinters in the world. It is distilleries were active. Among these was in honour of the area it is produced in is Hide; the same that in 1932 were still in the area known as Cockpit Country, in the Hampden Estate, one of the oldest sugar known as Trelawny rum, the cru of Jamai- operation when the Spirits Pool Associa- region of Trelawny in north-west Jamaica. cane plantations in Jamaica, which stood can rum. In 1800, this particular allowed tion was formed.

34 July 2020 July 2020 35 DISTILLERY THE PLANTS AT LONG POND.

far as the United Kingdom. it acts as a chapel today. As the years In 1852 the Hampden property landed passed, the property remained in the in the hands of George Mc Farquharson, hands of the descendants of the Mc Far- In 1945 Cambridge was incorporated opened between 1742 and 1760. The as his wife’s dowry from the Kelly Law- quar Lawsons until 2002, the year when into Long Pond, while Georgia burnt down first document to attest the existence of son family, whose father was a justice of Hampden, in financial straits, was taken in 1939 and was never reopened. Today the estate dates back to 1684 and men- peace in Trelawny. It is at this time that over by the Jamaica Sugar Company, a that tradition of Trelawny rum survives tions a certain Thomas Goddard. In 1753 the typical production that was to distin- company owned by the state of Jamaica. thanks to Hampden and Long Pond. the property was owned by Scotsman Ar- guish the Trelawny rums started. In 2003 the sugar estate was closed Hampden is accredited as having chibald Stirling, who built the Great House In 1955 one of the structures of the and only the distillery remained open. In opened in 1753. It is important to remem- of Hampden and whose ground floor was property was sold to the University of the 2009 the Everglades Farms company of ber though that it is very difficult to date used as a rum shop until the early 1900s. Western Indies in Mona, Jamaica. The Lawrence Houssey took over Long Pond the distilleries born in Caribbean during In 1767, rum production reached 50,000 building was taken down and rebuilt piece Sugar Estate and Hampden Estate from the 18th century. Certainly Hampden was litres and rum was regularly exported as by piece on the university campus where the Jamaican state. The new property

36 July 2020 July 2020 37 The molasses, to which pure cane juice is added, comes from the sugar mills of Hampden and Long Pond Sugar Estate. This is where a timeless story continues, the that lives and reproduces in the same space starts transforming the sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide. Following fermentation, the dead worth maintained the traditional production results, which rests for two more weeks techniques and in 2011, the first Hamp- in the wooden vats. The hall alongside den rum came onto the market: Rum Fire, houses the four pot stills, from the old a typically Jamaican overproof. In 2012 John Dore, to the latest arrival, the South Hampden Gold and Rum Fire Velvet fol- African T&T. lowed. For the first time in its history, About seven kilometres south of the Hampden started aging its rums. distillery, on the Cockpit Mountains, is the Visiting Hampden means journeying source of the spring water that reaches through the magic of one of the most dis- the distillery via a system of canals and tinctive rums in the world. In the space pipes. Nearby is the York Pond dam, built called the Boiling House, conical wooden in 1760 entirely out of stone. It seems vats are arranged where wild yeast under- that years ago, Hampden tested the water goes a lengthy fermentation of between of the water network, but the results were 8 and 15 days using the dunder method, not satisfactory. The historical Jamaican that is, the addition of what remains from pot still is the double report still. the previous fermentation. The dunder is Hampden Estate is one of the last re- made up of organic elements that slow maining distilleries to use this type of pot down fermentation, making it more acidic. still. Four pot stills are used. Installed

July 2020 39 Over time, Long Pond passed from the hands of individuals, to those of major companies, including Seagram’s. Nowa- days, Long Pond is divided into two as- sets. The distillery is owned by a state- owned company, while the sugar factory is owned by the same owner as Hamp-

NATURE den, Everglade Farms. Just like Hampden, AT THE TOP, Long Pond too had never sold rum under MONTEGO BAY. ABOVE, USAIN in 1960, the John Dore has an imposing is very important if one considers that its own name. Its production with a high BOLT. RIGHT, THE swan’s neck, leading to its nickname “The Hampden distils and supplies its rum to concentration of esters was diverted to GIANT YELLOW Elephant”. It is the oldest pot still in the third parties too. The approximately 2,700 satisfy the needs of other brands and BUTTERFLY. distillery with a capacity that allows pro- casks used for aging are ex bourbon with multinationals within the spirit industry. duction of 2,000 gallons (7,560 litres). a capacity of 190 litres. Aging is strict- The distillery was closed in 2012 for The other three are Vendome, installed in ly local and there are no additives when maintenance, and then reopened in 2017. 1994, the Forsyth in 2010 and lastly the bottling. Hampden proudly does not allow Long Pond also uses double retort pot T&T in 2016. These last three pot stills added sugars, tannins, caramel or glyc- stills, as many as five between Vendome each allow for production of 5,000 gallons erine. and John Dore. These two brands have (18,900 litres) and different ester inten- The origins of Long Pond are not as well the ability to enthral any rum lover. Their sity. Distillation takes about seven hours known. We need to go back to the end of expressiveness is one of the most char- and produces a spirit of about 82% ABV. the 18th century. Baronet Simon Clarke, acteristic and genuine that the vast spirit During distillation there is an ester con- who represented the British crown, lived world knowns. When mixed, they are able centration of between 1,500 and 1,600g on the island. In 1760, his son married to elevate any rum drink, giving them a per hectolitre of alcohol as in the case of the daughter of a local farmer, who as complexity and richness of flavour. the Hampden DOK, the highest concentra- her dowry brought land known as “Retire- Over recent years, the renewed interest tasted. tion allowed by Jamaican authorities who ment”. This is probably the origin of the in Jamaican rum has focused its atten- In Italy, certain variants of Hampden regulate alcohol production. Long Pond sugar factory. Traces of the tion on the most iconic distilleries with and Long Pond are distributed by Velier. In its production, Hampden differenti- property only date back to 1921, when it the richest stories. It is a journey back in There are also certain variants on the ates various concentrations of esters that was bought by a Scottish company, Sheriff time that is discovered in a glass where market produced by independent bottlers. characterise its different products. This & Co. rum must first be listened to before being Alessandro Palanca

40 July 2020 July 2020 41 HAMPDEN ESTATE HAMPDEN ESTATE HAMPDEN ESTATE GREAT LONG POND TECA 2007 12 yo LONG POND STCE WHITE LONG POND 2005 Nose: intense notes of ripe OVERPROOF HOUSE DISTILLERY EDITION Nose: fragrant, fruit, cane HABITATION VELIER HABITATION VELIER fruit, apple, pear, dates, Nose: pineapple and Nose: refined, distinctive, sugar and tertiary fragrances Nose: elegant and potent. Distilled in 2005 and leather, with prominent banana. Gentle clove and with notable elegance, from aging in the cask. Medicinal notes of camphor bottled in 2019 spices. Creamy banana nutmeg follow, along with a exotic fruit, passion fruit, Palate: warm and bold. followed by fruit which brings Nose: an exuberant palette pie with a generous dose touch of citrus peel. Crunchy kiwi, pineapple, florals, Syrupy and slightly out a marked contrast, of variegated aromas of spices, cloves and caramel and spun sugar geranium. Followed by honey, chocolatey, exotic fruit, cloves. where fruity notes prevail: cinnamon. The banana develop, along with rich tobacco, coffee and lemon. salted caramel, spices and Palate: very fruity (pear, pineapple, mango, banana, remains as apples and butterscotch. It provides an intense flow herbs. peach), vanilla, lemon and vanilla. pineapples roll in. Dark, oily Palate: Intense fruit – of sensations over the entire ABV: 62.5%. mint. It is extraordinarily Palate: bold, warm and notes. pineapple, apple, pear, aromatic palette. balanced. The deep finish is flavourful. Palate: significant due to mango and papaya. Spices, Palate: lively and bold. juicy (pear), spicy and floral ABV: 62% its richness and evolving cloves and cinnamon, notes The majestic and bright (orange). The cane sugar complexity. Enveloping and of liquorice. A gentle hint of entry reveals sweet pastry moves slowly through the persistent. smoke. notes. Honey appears again taste buds. ABV: 46% ABV: 60% and apricots as tasting ABV: 62.5% increases. Notes of sugar cane, straw and aromatic plants. ABV: 59%

42 July 2020 July 2020 43 bar tour DRINKING EUROPE

NORTH WIND Trendy rooftops and bars offering bold mixes in Copenhagen, amid history and design

BY ALESSIA SABATTINI

openhagen, famous for its stat- areas such as the administratively inde- ue of The Little Mermaid, which pendent Frederiksberg and Christiania, adorns its harbour, is also the city but especially thanks to its “five finger with the oldest royal residence plan” adopted from the 1970s to connect Cin the world. During the course of the it to other cities in the country. 1900s, the city grew exponentially from Denmark’s capital is also the first her seaport origins, incorporating other in the world to have pedestrianised its

44 July 2020 July 2020 45 catering to all tastes (hotel, street bar, tiki…) and interesting openings continue to take place, an example of which is the Hotel Ottilia. Opened last year, it boasts two cock- tail bars: the lobby bar and rooftop bar (in addition to Wine Hour, a feature of all the chain’s hotels). The bottle shelves stand out thanks to their wide selection of gin hailing from all over the world, in addition to its very own Wilderness Gin, COPENHAGEN AT THE TOP produced solely with Danish botanicals. AND LEFT, CURFEW’S COPENHAGEN The bar of the Tramonto restaurant on the many locales such as the elegant Vang & for the weekend crowd, while the third INTERIOR AND AT THE TOP, ENTRANCE. LIDKOEB. rooftop, on the other hand, boasts bold Bar and the Brass Monkey tiki bar, where has a more intimate feel and is devoted ABOVE, ABOVE, THE historic centre and aims to become the mixing, which winks at London trends, fo- between one sip and the next the fiery to whisky lovers with a selection of 200 VANG & BAR. BRASS MONKEY BAR first capital with zero emissions by 2025. cussing on captivating sides that differ beach bartending show will keep you en- labels. It was born as the first affiliate of COUNTER. ON THE While walking, or rather, biking through its greatly from average Danish service. We tertained. We are, however, in a city and the Ruby: the most well-known cocktail bar PREVIOUS PAGE, HOTEL streets amongst typical Nordic architec- are now in west Copenhagen, in one of the when continuing along Vesterbrogade we in the city, which is found in the historic OTTILIA. ture and modern sustainable and innova- trendiest districts that is also undergoing reach the famous and unmissable cock- centre and that is owned by Adeline and tive buildings, one breathes in this desire a complete architectural revival. This is tail bars of the Kødbyen district: Lidkoeb, Rasmus Shepherd-Lomborg. for change. the district of Carlsberg, which owes its Duck and Cover and Curfew. On the other side of the street the Duck This is found to no less degree in name to the brewery there. It promises Lidkoeb was the first to open in this and Cover creates a unique, relaxed at- its bartending. If in the past there was to become the new hot spot for luxury part of the city. It is found within an old mosphere in a spot with typical 1960s greater consumption of beer, today Copen- nightlife. Danish pharmacy dating back to 1886 Danish design – wood and rope are the hagen has a vast array of cocktail bars Moving up Engavevej, there are already and is on three floors: the first two are dominant tones and materials used. The

46 July 2020 July 2020 47 COPENHAGEN ALONGSIDE, INSIDE THE DUCK AND COVER. BELOW, REFFEN. ON THE RIGHT PAGE, FROM THE TOP: THE STANDS AT REFFEN; THE REFFEN SPRITZ AND THE REFFEN MEATBALL.

drinks menu offers classics and signature your reference point so as not to get lost, drinks with unusual combinations. The the first amusement park to open in Eu- two founders are in fact enthusiasts of rope and whose attractions are visible aquavit and dedicated specialists of their throughout most of the city. The historic respective botanicals. Curfew is complete- centre of Copenhagen starts right behind ly different, and as the name suggests, it and then develops around the island recalls the Prohibition. It is like the lounge of Slotsholmen within the harbour. Also of a retro collector, rich in vintage items known as “the island of power”, it is home and posters. to the Christiansborg Palace and the Na- When leaving, keep Tivoli Gardens as tional Library, the largest in Scandinavia.

48 July 2020 DRINK RESPONSIBLY Here, the famous Nyhavn canal with co- lourful Danish houses is nicknamed the largest bar in Scandinavia because drinks are available at any time of the day and night. Coffee bars, breweries and restau- rants beat the rhythm of a tourist’s typical day and at night things get even more interesting. The cocktail bars in the city’s centre are plentiful and high level, and not just because of their prices. At no. 10 Nybrogade, Ruby is the gem of Danish mixing. Open since 2007 when Co- penhagen already boasted starred restau- rants, but no noteworthy cocktail bars, it has continued to astonish. It is located inside a terraced house from 1740 that before finding its final identity was also a bank. The entrance is not flashy, but rath- er an ordinary wooden door along a dimly lit street. If you are observant enough, you will see the brass nameplate, and when crossing the threshold, you enter a place that is timeless. The furnishings are wooden and in perfect Danish style, with dim lighting and white marble. The menu is divided

July 2020 51 of the location plays a fundamental role. cept. The historical building (1732) is a From the baroque exterior you move into protected landmark that over time has the round internal lounge with opulent housed a restaurant, shoemaker, barber furnishings imported directly from an old but, most importantly, it was the first bar pharmacy in Seville, Spain. In addition in the city’s history to have a telephone. to an internal courtyard, the bar has six It is for this reason that upon enter- private suites where you can choose to ing there are various elements hanging spend the evening with friends, organise a on the wall. Owned by a New Yorker, the tasting (bookings only) or smoke a cigar. It Balderdash does not want to be inspired is an eclectic space where alongside the by something foreign, but wants the re- cocktail menu you find a curated selection al Copenhagen to express itself in its of champagne and cognac. evenings. In fact its first menu (in 2015) In the vicinity of Rundetarn, the round was modelled on the stops of the city’s tower built in 1642 as an observatory, metro system. At the end of the room is we find Strom, another institution of good Geoffrey’s laboratory (Geoffrey being the COPENHAGEN COPENHAGEN Danish drinking. Founded by Swedish owner), where new drinks come to life for AT THE TOP, AT THE TOP, into three parts: classic, signature and brothers, Mikael and Andreas Nilsson, this the constantly changing menu. of the many Italian touches in the city: the BALDERDASH. STROM. ABOVE, ABOVE, RUBY. seasonal. It changes four times a year cocktail bar is in art déco style with large For lovers of street food, there is the Spritz. Cute buckets of half, one or two li- BRONNUM. but the real surprise comes downstairs, spaces and sets itself apart thanks to its cheerful area of Reffen. It is found in the tres of the drink are very popular and they where in the ex-vault there is a secret lively atmosphere and funky rhythms. It is north east of the city and is five bus stops are conveniently set out among the deck bar with seating for about twenty people the perfect place to forge new friendships; from the free town of Christiania, in the chairs provided to enjoy the sun and sea. and a dedicated menu, in decor for true its mixing does not leave space for sweet city’s industrial area. It is an urban area Copenhagen has so much to offer that connoisseurs. imbalance and they offer classic cocktails made of old renovated containers and set a single weekend is not enough for a At the end of Strøget, the longest pe- in bottles that are ready to be shared at up as street food stands dedicated to city worthy bar tour, and since it is constantly destrian street in all of Europe, in Kon- the table. About 500 metres from here start-ups. Inaugurated in 2018, it is open evolving, we are sure so much more is gens Nytorv square is Ruby’s second is Balderdash, where this concept bar is from mid-morning until aperitif time and to come! affiliate: Bronnum. Here too the choice founded precisely on not having a con- suits everyone’s pocket. Here we find one Alessia Sabattini

52 July 2020 July 2020 53 focus on THE TEARS TOP TEN

DUTCH COURAGE

Tess Posthumus, the bartending guru behind working through the fitout of Dutch Cour- age, and keeping up Covid-19 offerings Flying Dutchmen Cocktails and much, much from delivery cocktails to online training. “I don’t think I’ve ever been so busy. We more, shares the secrets of her home city, have six bartenders at Flying Dutchmen, so we need to keep them busy and we Amsterdam – and a Black Tears cocktail too need to cover our costs as much as pos- sible,” she says. “We’ve been trying to DI THEODORA SUTCLIFFE be creative, trying to figure out how to keep the staff busy and keep our name alive with our guests.” orld Class bartender of the columnist, as well as one of Europe’s Where’s the best place to drink rum year in 2015 and co-owner best-known female bartenders, her third in Amsterdam? of the Perfect Serve Barshow book, on the Netherlands’ signature spir- Obviously, my own bar, Flying Dutch- Amsterdam, Amsterdam it, genever, comes out later this year. men, because we have more than 800 CocktailW Week, Flying Dutchmen Cock- bottles on the back bar including an tails and the upcoming Dutch Courage When we talk, Posthumus is preparing ever-changing assortment of very nice bar, Tess Posthumus cut her bartend- to reopen Flying Dutchmen , amid strict rums. Whenever we find something weird ing teeth at Amsterdam’s iconic Door rules and regulations that reduce the or new or exclusive we always add it to 74. A hospitality consultant and drinks bar’s capacity to just 10 people, slowly the collection. Café 't Spui-tje, around

54 July 2020 July 2020 55 the corner from Flying Dutchmen, is a for a smoke? with Scandinavian style design, but su- very nice place for the rum connoisseur, Everywhere in Amsterdam there are per-super-good coffee. Lex Wenneker, with a great selection, and there are also good places, but we have one next to my the owner, has won national and global some very cool Tiki bars in Amsterdam. house which is located next to a super- compettitions multiple times. What cocktail bar should we not market. Its name means “The Supermar- What one thing should every visitor miss in Amsterdam? ket”, so when you tell your partner you’re to Amsterdam do? Door 74 for me is the bar that start- going to the supermarket it’s never clear Taste genever. Genever is our tradi- ed the entire craft cocktail movement what you mean. Just be sure you trust tional spirit. It’s amazing, the missing in the Netherlands. Back in the day, the guys who work there and let them link between whisky and gin, botanical we didn’t really have a cocktail culture advise you, because it’s different from but also malty. here—we’re Dutch, we’re very sober peo- home. Where’s the best place for a selfie ple and all about the beer. But when the Who’s the best tattooist in town? in Amsterdam? renaissance of the cocktail happened Go to Ink District. Nikita, a friend and We have The Avocado Show, a lunch in London and New York it started hap- neighbour, makes super-nice tattoos in room where the entire theme is avoca- pening here, and Door 74 was the first the city centre. But you do need to make dos. The dishes are beautiful. The inte- speakeasy concept in Western Europe. a reservation because she’s often fully rior is amazing, everything is green and I learned a lot bartending there and it’s booked. avocados. It’s very much a gimmick and still around and still super-good. Where’s the best street art in Am- you always see long lines of influencers Where do off-duty bartenders go sterdam? wanting to take pictures there—but it’s drinking once they finish their shift? If you’re at Amsterdam Centraal Sta- worth the wait because the food is all A lot end up at Flying Dutchmen. But a tion, behind it, over a big stretch of wa- so good. lot of bartenders just go to a brown café, ter, is the northern part of Amsterdam. a traditional Dutch bar, for a beer and Take the free ferry to the north, which MIXING WITH BLACK TEARS, AM- a genever, and there’s a very nice one is more factories and festivals: it used STERDAM STYLE near Dutch Courage called In ’t Aepjen, to be where the shipworks were so it’s “Not to bash other rums, but a lot of which means In the Monkey. It’s a very, a bit more of a raw side of Amsterdam, spiced rums are very sweet with a lot very old-school brown café and it’s round with super-cool graffiti. of added sugars and a thick and sticky the corner from Centraal Station, so you Where can you find the best cocktail texture,” Posthumus says. “Black Tears can literally crawl to the station. It’s in ingredients in Amsterdam? is still quite light and dry, although it has an old wooden house, and the bar is Sterk is a nice shop. It’a supermarket the sweetness in it flavour-wise, and for around 400 years old. The name led to but small and family-owned. They’re su- me that really stands out.” THE RECIPE a Dutch saying: “You spent the night In per-geeks like me, so they have a huge Postumus’ Tears of Joy cocktail links the Monkey”, meaning “You’re fucked...” collection of cocktail bitters, super-nice the spiced rum to the spice trade that TEARS OF JOY During the spice trade, it was a place Japanese whiskies. If there’s anything once flowed through Amsterdam, using for sailors to hang out. The owner liked you want that they don’t have they’ll take cinnamon to wink at the spice history • 50ml Black Tears Dry Spiced animals, so the sailors who weren’t able it as a challenge and have it next time and orange to nod to the Dutch national • 30ml Lime juice to pay their bills would bring him some- you’re there. colour and royal family, the House of Or- • 20ml Cointreau thing from a foreign country, like parrots Where should we go for coffee, and ange. The cinnamon and orange flavour • 10ml Cinnamon syrup and monkeys, but they all had fleas, so why? profile works beautifully with Black Tears’ • 1 dash Angostura bitters when you got on a ship for six months It’s located a bit outside the city coffee and chocolate notes. Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into a chilled coupe and started scratching you were really centre in Bos en Lommer—a bit of a Travel may be a dream for the future glass. Snap and spray an orange zest and discard in the drink, out of luck. gangster area, a bit out of your way, but but it’s not yet a thing of the past. then add a physalis fruit. Where’s the best legal place to go very cool. It’s called Fuku and it’s small, Theodora Sutcliffe

56 July 2020 July 2020 57 A symphony of 34 herbs. Drink responsibly

Just relax and enjoy the extraordinary symphony of flavour in a glass of Alpestre, brought to you by an orchestra of 34 medicinal herbs, blended and aged in oak casks from an ancient recipe. A small sip of this distilled spirit will delight both your heart and mind. alpestre.it Distributed by: OnestiGroup S.p.A.

Alpestre_adv_ENG_A4.indd 1 09/12/15 15:41