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Sweet Jamaica a Pot Still and Three Distilleries Dutch N. 27 | JULY 2020 SUPPLEMENT OF BARTALES LIQUID STORY / FAMILY JEWELS A POT STILL BAR STORY / PEGU AND THREE DISTILLERIES COLONIAL FLAVOUR HOT SPIRIT / TRELAWNY RUM HOT SPIRIT / INDIAN WHISKY SWEET JAMAICA MIXTURE FROM OVER THE SEAS BAR TOUR / DRINKING EUROPE FOCUS ON / THE TEARS TOP TEN NORTH WIND DUTCH COURAGE BAR EDITORIAL by Melania Guida TALES A TEAM EFFORT tarting 24 June, and seven years after the release of the first issue of Bar- Tales, the Chinese edition of our magazine is now online. This was a great challenge – an attempt at considering what until a few months ago was unthinkable. Another “younger brother”, following the Spanish edition of Sour “Best of Bartales”. With hindsight, and fingers crossed, we put our experience to good use while riding the long wave of this crisis. This is the real meaning of hard times: attempting to turn hardship to your advantage, turning a disadvantage into an opportunity and upping the ante. It’s a wager, of course, perhaps even a gamble and at such an uncertain time. But it’s in these game-changing moments, we told ourselves, and during the hardest, that we have to pull out all the stops. “When the going gets tough, the tough get going”, in the words of that genius, John Belushi. It’s a statement that’s made history. We’ve borrowed it too – don’t hold it against us, John – for the launch of our next adventure: the Mandarin edition. It’s not use denying that there’s a touch of tension and some light-headedness. But this is also what pushed us along, fuelled us, as well as the desire to keep looking ahead. We’re making no predications; we’ll talk about it after the summer. In the meantime, enjoy the summer holidays. Follow us N. 27 | JULY 2020 EXECUTIVE EDITOR DIGITAL EDITION BY Melania Guida SKILL LAB srl ([email protected]) ([email protected]) STAFF EDITOR Fabio Bacchi Registrazione. n. 35 del 8/7/2013 Tribunale di Napoli ([email protected]) www.bartales.it ART DIRECTOR Cinzia Marotta © copyright BARTALES - All rights reserved. No part of this ([email protected]) publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means. Any violation will be persecuted according to law. CONTRIBUTOR Alessandro Palanca, Luca Rapetti, Giuseppe Anyone with a claim on the copyright of unidentified Statico, Theodora Sutcliffe pictures please contact Bartales TRANSLATION BY LMP International - Lonato (BS) Italy DRINK RESPONSIBLY July 2020 3 liquid story FAMILY JEWELS on an entrepreneurial adventure, placing his first pot still in a building between the homes of the village of Silvano d’Orba, more specifically in via Roma, where the distillery is still found today. One hundred A POT STILL and fifty years have passed since then, but the old bain marie pot still, the coat of arms, and the cellar with vaulted walls dating back to the Middle Ages, still give AND THREE DISTILLERIES this small location a certain charm from another era. The (unique) story of the Gualcos The founder’s eldest child, Paolo II, was destined to continue the family business. among entrepreneurial endeavours He had been part of Garibaldi’s troops and made a name for himself during the battle factories of the Genoa, Milan and Turin and intertwining generations of Aspromonte, in Calabria. On his return triangle started. as a hero, he was elected town mayor and This vigour also had positive conse- BY GIUSEPPE STATICO took over management of the distillery. quences on the small village of Silvano Finally united as a nation, Italy grew in d’Orba, whose population reached 3,000 economic vigour like never before. Cus- inhabitants. Naturally there were prob- his is the story of a small distillery of Monferrato to repair casks, carry out toms barriers fell between states and lems, but Paolo II was one accustomed to founded in 1870 by Gualco Paolo other manual jobs for farmers and allow smaller states, lines of communication overcoming difficulties. The valley was the I in the heart of one of the most his own mobile winepress to be used for between north and south strengthened, natural route for goods coming from the Tindustrious areas of Piedmont. Un- winemaking.One day he decided to stop markets opened that until that time had ports of Genoa and Savona to Piedmont, til that time, Paolo Gualco’s life consist- and make his business a stable one. With been inaccessible, and the industriali- and from there to the rest of Europe. ed of travelling between the farmhouses the help of his two sons he embarked up- sation that led to the birth of the large The outbreak of the Great War did not 4 July 2020 July 2020 5 II. Duilio, who had a diploma in oenology from the school of Alba, moved to Argen- tina to the city of Mendoza. Thanks to his studies, Duilio was given the opportunity to become the director of a major local winery. He also found love and married Elvira Montenegro Ortiz, a young lady from an excellent family and with whom he had three children (Paolo IV, Susanna and Maria). The economic crisis of 1929 that spilled into the 1930s, as well as a deep yearning for his country, convinced Duilio to return to Italy with his family in 1934. He never received the support of his wife in this decision however, as she always leave Silvano d’Orba untouched by cata- longed for her country of birth. Reunited strophic consequences. One of the most with his father, Duilio started working at significant was the mass migration to the the family distillery, which had not stopped Americas that deprived the town of its production. In the meantime, the new Ital- best resources. ian regime consolidated its power, started Among the town’s inhabitants, who its African exploits with the Ethiopian co- decided to make a life for himself else- lonial war and passed the notorious racial where, was Duilio Gualco, son of Paolo laws of 1938. 6 July 2020 ORIGINS ON THIS PAGE SOME PHOTOS OF SUSANNA SOLDATINI. BELOW, THE LICENCE OF DISTILLERIA GUALCO. Aperitiv Del Professe APERITIVO&TONIC As we know, following German occupa- • 5 cl Aperitivo Del Professore tion of France, Italy became involved in the massive catastrophe of World War II. The • 15 cl tonic water bombings, raids, hardships, civil war and • lemon zes. appropriations did not fail to touch the Pour the two ingredients entire valley of the Orba river, as well as into a glass full of ice, the small municipality of Silvano d’Orba. mix and garnish with lemon zes. Many partisans were imprisoned in the town’s prison. Following the armistice, there was a lack of established order and the area was also the scene of the well- neighbour, Giovanni, who in an attempt known “resentment” movement and swift to comfort him said in the local dialect: vendettas that wrote some of the darkest “Look, Duilio, you don’t remember this but pages of Italian history. Duilio abandoned before you fled you gave me a demijohn of the distillery and it was requisitioned by grappa which I have kept in my basement. the partisans. It is yours, of course.” Fifty-four litres of After the war Duilio legitimately re- grappa were stored in that demijohn. From gained ownership of the distillery. All its those few litres of grappa, Duilio regained plants had been damaged, however, and the strength to start again. every bottle of grappa taken. Desperate With Duilio growing older and his due to financial ruin, Duilio saw no way out daughter’s departure for Genoa, the distill- except to abandon the distillery to its fate. ery was first sold and thereafter stopped Legend now follows what up to that production during the seventies. But it point is confirmed history. The story goes was Susanna herself who took over the that powerless before his semi-destroyed company. distillery, Duilio was approached by his We must take a step back, though. As DRINK RESPONSIBLY DRINK Tradition, terroir, people delprofessore.it July 2020 9 of Matteo I), then to Matteo II and lastly Benito (great grandson of Matteo I), who then closed it. The third Gualco branch takes us to Bartolomeo Gualco, son of Matteo I and gained from her father, Duilio, Susanna Duilio’s cousin. Bartolomeo too, who like soon became a great expert in distilling. his father was excluded from the distill- When Bartolomeo died with no heirs ery’s inheritance, emigrated to Argentina of his own, he left everything to Susanna, to work as a taxi driver. He returned to whom he believed to be the most suitable Italy to work with his uncle Paolo II, but person to continue with the business. In upon Duilio’s return (the rightful heir), in that moment, Susanna Gualco Maestrini 1934 he established the “Distilleria Gual- found herself heir to the three branches co Bartolomeo” in via XX Settembre, also of Gualco distillers from Silvano d’Orba. in Silvano d’Orba. Many illustrious sporting, political and TV Bartolomeo was a great creator of personalities were among her customers: quality grappa, who also educated his Fausto Coppi, Gino Bartali, Andrea Cafiea, PRODUCTION AT THE TOP, THE customers on good drinking before their Gigi Radice, Arrigo Sacchi, Alberto Lupo, STORE, AND purchase. His notoriety led to him being Lella Costa, and many others. Susanna ABOVE, ALESSANDRO known as “the grappa wizard”. Bartolomeo was later joined by her son, Alessandro. SOLDATINI. came up with strange names for his grap- Today, the distillery is led by the sixth pa (Suauitas, Supeila, Mandamara), as generation, Giorgio and Marcella, Ales- GRAPPA well as “Grappa senza nome” (No name sandro’s children.
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