Daily Edition april 6, 2018 1

Fashion. Beauty. Business. New Era Round 1 to Slimane Elevated Medium Beauty suppliers talk Kering intends to New exhibit features speed and sustainability appeal decision in Albert Watson’s work at Cosmoprof. Hedi Slimane lawsuit. for Blumarine. Pages 6 to 8 Page 2 Page 17

business Tech’s Crisis of Confidence ● With more questions about how the Silicon Valley giants operate, the world is reevaluating its love affair with technology.

By Evan Clark and Adriana Lee The world is ready to log off — or at least, fed up enough to wish it could. After 20 years at the pinnacle of con- sumer culture, technology itself is facing a crisis of confidence that is much deeper and more complex than any of its prior setbacks and data privacy snafus. Technology’s issues have become more numerous and varied, encompassing not just a single industry, but a pillar of mod- ern life. * Facebook’s been scandalized by how its data was used to inappropriately target voters. * Hackers regularly attack from the shadows, most recently breaking into the Continued on page 4

Influence Peddler Julia Engel Creates Line Of Dresses At Nordstrom Named after her popular blog, Gal Meets Glam Collection is a size- inclusive range inspired by a “love of all things feminine.”

By Alexa Tietjen

Gal meets fashion line. Julia Engel, creator of the pop- ular style blog Gal Meets Glam, is ready for her fashion debut. Today the super-influencer revealed the launch of her first fashion collec- tion, aptly named after her blog, which will be sold at Nordstrom starting April 20. Engel, who started her blog in 2011, first conceived of a fashion line four years ago. “I look back on the mood boards, inspiration and ideas Karl Goes Big I had, and I’ve stayed with them throughout the past four years,” she A giant, silver figurine of Karl Lagerfeld, cradling his famous cat Choupette, is said. “I saw a huge gap in the market among the striking features in the designer’s sprawling new U.S. flagship, which for dresses that were both feminine and classic, but also available at an opens Saturday in New York’s SoHo district. For more on the store, see page 3. Continued on page 9 photograph By george chinsee 2 april 6, 2018

business Hedi Slimane Kering to Appeal Slimane Ruling ● The French conglomerate show the first collection in September. is flighting back against the In its March 27 ruling, the court said Ker- ing owes Slimane 9.3 million euros, related court’s ruling it owes the to the last year of an elaborate compensa- designer 9.3 million euros. tion scheme drawn up to allow the designer to benefit from an increase in value of the By Mimosa Spencer shares of Yves Saint Laurent. The amount PARIS — He recently started a new job and is meant to ensure that Slimane’s pay from was handed a court victory against his for- April 2015 to March 2016 would reach 10 mer employer — involving a potential sum of million euros, the court said in its decision. 9.3 million euros — but Hedi Slimane’s case Kering said it would appeal the ruling but against Kering may not be over. declined to comment further. The designer’s The French luxury conglomerate said lawyers, Hervé Temime and Léon del Forno, at the time. “Hedi Slimane is requesting that about Yves Saint Laurent. it plans to appeal a French commercial said they would not comment on the matter. this clause be applied still, along with the The designer worked for Yves Saint Laurent court’s ruling in favor of Slimane, the latest Through his company, Analytic Proj- effective payment of the financial compen- from 2012 to March 2016, where he changed chapter of a remuneration case linked to ect, that handles his commercial rights, sation that goes with it.” the label’s name to Saint Laurent, and, in the designer’s time at Saint Laurent that has Slimane launched the procedure at the Non-competition obligations are among Kering’s view, “reformed the maison.” been winding through the court for over a commercial court in May 2016. standard clauses for high-profile execu- Before that, he had worked for another year and a half. The following month, Kering acknowl- tive and creative roles in fashion, often LVMH brand, Dior Homme, from 2000 to The news comes as Slimane takes on his edged the legal proceedings, saying that restricting a designer or chief executive 2007, where he introduced slim tailoring, new role at Céline, owned by LVMH Moët Slimane had requested the lifting of a officer from working for competitors for a trend that continues to hold resonance. Hennessy Louis Vuitton, a high-profile non-competition obligation. “Kering lifted up to a year or more. LMVH has said it expects Céline, which position for the trend-setting fashion figure this clause at the end of Hedi Slimane’s In November 2016, Slimane’s lawyers said generates close to 1 billion euros in annual who has been recruited to extend the brand contract, thus freeing Hedi Slimane from he was very satisfied with a court decision sales, to double or triple its revenues within into men’s wear, couture and fragrance and this potential constraint,” the company said granting him access to financial information five years.

business credit and web monitoring.” Although HBC gave few details about the breach, Mekerdijian’s lawsuit did shed some HBC Hit With $5 Million Lawsuit light, including that millions of customers have been affected. He said it was first ● A shopper is pursuing and class members’ [private identifiable inaction,” Mekerdijian is accusing the com- “announced” on March 28 by “a hacking a class-action days after information] from unauthorized access, use pany of breach of implied contract, negli- syndicate called JokerStash” through its and disclosure, as required by various state gence, unfair competition and deceptive release of the records online. The breach the Saks operator said it and federal regulations, industry practices business practices and invasion of privacy allegedly took place over almost a year, uncovered a breach of and the common law,” shopper Antranik and seeking damages for a certified class of beginning in May 2017. payment information. Mekerdijian wrote in his complaint. “The national shoppers of at least $5 million. He added that credit and debit card data breach was also a result of defen- Litigation after consumer data breaches information is valuable to hackers because By Kali Hays dants’ failure to establish and implement is relatively common, especially when it can be sold for around $20 apiece appropriate administrative, technical and information like social security data is and then used to “clone” the cards, as Hudson’s Bay Co. might have uncovered physical safeguards to ensure the security accessed, but awards, if a case gets to the is personal information associated with and stopped its recent data breach, but its and confidentiality of plaintiffs’ and class damages stage, can be small. Plaintiffs tend the cards, which can be used to facilitate problems aren’t over. members’ [information] to protect against to have difficulty proving to a court that identity theft. Mekerdijian said he shopped A shopper on Tuesday slapped the Saks reasonably foreseeable threats to the secu- they suffered actual damages worthy of a at “several” Saks and Lord & Taylor stores Fifth Avenue, Saks Off 5th and Lord & rity or integrity of such information.” substantial award, but settlements are often during the year customer information was Taylor operator with a $5 million proposed Mekerdijian added that the breach reached before a case drags on for too long. being siphoned. class action lawsuit in California federal compromised the information of millions An HBC spokeswoman declined to com- Despite the well-known ramifications of court, accusing the company of effectively of customers, including full credit and debit ment, citing a company policy on pending data theft and their apparent frequency allowing the breach to occur for almost a card numbers, e-mail and living addresses, litigation. in retail, with Target, TJX Cos. Inc. and full year due to its inadequate security and phone numbers and social security num- The company revealed the breach over more recent Sears and Under Armour, data know-how. bers, exposing them to fraud and identity the weekend, saying it had “identified the finding their customer information com- “The data breach was a direct and theft and forcing them to spend time and issue and taken steps to contain it” and that promised, Mekerdijian said HBC’s stores proximate result of defendants’ failure to money securing their information. it intends to offer any impacted shoppers “opted to maintain an insufficient and properly safeguard and protect plaintiff’s Considering HBC’s “wrongful action and “free identity protection services, including inadequate system.”

business president of Urban, will vacate his posi- web sites and catalogues, and Free People tions on April 27. and Anthropologie Group wholesale their “We thank David for his six years of products. Anthropologie CEO service to the company, during which Urban Outfitters Inc. saw sales during time the Anthropologie group opened 60 the year ended Jan. 31 increase 2 percent stores and grew revenue by over 35 per- to $3.61 billion, while profits fell by more David McCreight cent,” said Richard A. Hayne, chairman than 50 percent to $108.26 million from and ceo. “Both Hillary and Andrew are $218.12 million a year ago. The picture strong leaders and excellent merchants for the fourth quarter was similar, with Leaving This Month with a solid understanding of the Anthro- sales growing 5.7 percent to $1.09 billion, pologie customer. Anthropologie Group’s a company record, and profits falling to ● Two insiders were named His responsibilities will be covered by current business is particularly robust, $1.3 million from $64.3 million at the end to cover responsibilities Hillary Super, Anthropologie group pres- and we are excited about both the near- of 2016. ident for apparel and accessories, which and longer-term opportunities for growth The company said overall sales in its being vacated by the includes Beauty and BHLDN; and Andrew under their leadership.” retail segment came in flat for the year, executive at Anthropologie. Carnie, Anthropologie group president, Urban Outfitters Inc.’s portfolio even with the net addition of seven stores, home, garden and international. Together, includes 247 Urban Outfitters stores; while wholesale sales increased 9.5 By David Moin they will lead the brand, Anthropologie’s 226 Anthropologie Group stores; 132 percent. Online sales also grew by double David McCreight, chief executive officer parent company, Urban Oufitters Inc., said Free People stores in the United States digits for each brand, although average of the Anthropologie Group, is exiting the in a press release Thursday. and Canada, and 10 food and beverage order size ended flat, but comparable

company. McCreight, who also held the title of restaurants. The company also operates sales in stores remained negative. Feugère Stéphane by P hotograph april 6, 2018 3

fashion Karl Lagerfeld to Open First U.S. Store ● The SoHo unit’s decor has been inspired by Lagerfeld’s personal home and studio.

By Lisa Lockwood

Karl Lagerfeld is ready to take SoHo by storm. On Saturday, the Karl Lagerfeld brand will open its first U.S. store at 420 West Broadway in New York, which features a mix of Lagerfeld’s European collection and Karl Lagerfeld Paris, which is a joint venture with G-III Apparel Group. Inspired by the designer’s personal home and studio, the 3,230-square-foot store has a sophisticated yet inviting, open feel. Each of the furnishings has an unusual story behind it, from antique mirrors to velvet chairs and luxurious marble finishes to the giant Tokidoki silver cartoon sculpture of Lagerfeld — with a ponytail — holding his famous feline, Choupette. A bespoke carpet has a red border around its edges, similar Karl Lagerfeld to the border that the designer draws on handbags are all of his sketches. A full-size photograph displayed at the of Lagerfeld, wearing fingerless gloves and front of the store. chains, and taking a photo with his camera, greets visitors at the entrance. exclusive events and activations viewable at One highlight is a library wall inspired by @karllagerfeld and #karllagerfeld. the library in Lagerfeld’s studio, where he In a WWD interview in January, Righi dis- houses a part of his collection of more than cussed the warm, home feeling of the new 300,000 books. On display are such books store format, as opposed to a sleek, black as “Helmut Newton,” “Renoir,” “Streisand” and white, cool feeling of Lagerfeld stores and “Chagall,” which aren’t for sale, while from six years ago. “Our new store format some of the books about the designer’s life plays a lot with Instagrammable moments are available for purchase. and places, so we really have dedicated “Opening the first Karl Lagerfeld store spaces where you, as a consumer, can in the U.S. is an exciting milestone in our clearly connect with that Karl world and brand’s continued global growth,” said Pier make it seen,” Righi said at the time. Paolo Righi, chief executive officer of Karl Lagerfeld’s expanding network includes Lagerfeld. “New York City is an interna- more than 95 monobrand points of sale tional fashion capital with a modern spirit worldwide, in addition to a wholesale pres- and energy that make it the ideal setting for ence in Europe, the Middle East and Asia. our new flagship. With our West Broadway The global online flagship store, karl.com, location, we can invite our consumers to reaches 96 countries. immerse themselves in the complete Karl Looks from the Opening more stores has been a key Lagerfeld retail experience and continue to Karl Lagerfeld initiative for the brand. Last year, the com- build meaningful connections with them.” collection. pany opened 10 to 11 stores. Among the new The flagship will showcase Karl Lagerfeld ones were two stores in China: one at the and Karl Lagerfeld Paris ready-to-wear for Beijing Oriental Plaza and the other at the women and men, in addition to accessories Starlight Plaza in Chongqing. Last October, and footwear. Among the special features it opened a store in Vienna and another in are the Karl Ikonik collection, which Jeddah at the Red Sea Mall. highlights playful graphics of the designer’s Last month, Lagerfeld opened its first iconic character and Choupette. The whim- freestanding women’s store in Moscow at sical offering includes luggage, tote bags, the Metropolis Shopping Mall, one of the sunglasses, canvas bags, wallets, watches city’s best-known shopping centers, fea- and sneakers. There’s also a Kaptain Karl turing Lagerfeld’s updated retail concept. section that has a more nautical feel with The store showcases Lagerfeld women’s jeans with patches, tweed jackets, “Karl” rtw, footwear and accessories with a focus T-shirts, and blue leather jackets. A Yoni on bags. In February, Lagerfeld opened a Alter x Lagerfeld collaboration offers color- pop-up shop at the Breuninger department ful, modern pieces of rtw and accessories, store in Stuttgart, Germany. It will be open including patches on skirts, denim and through the end of this month. Other new jackets. Jeans are $265, while an allover silk Lagerfeld stores this spring are at the Mall print dress is $385. of the Emirates and Dubai Mall. The store will also serve as the launch It’s been a busy year for the Lagerfeld pad for the Karl Lagerfeld + ModelCo color brand. Earlier this year, the company cosmetics collection, which has been devel- revealed it was merging its two men’s wear oped in collaboration with the Australian The Karl Lagerfeld store at lines, with a collection unveiled at Pitti beauty brand. 420 West Broadway in SoHo. Uomo; launching a capsule collection with Throughout the year, the store will Sébastien Jondeau, Lagerfeld’s personal add new collections such as Karl Lager- store, one could see that the more elevated fingerless gloves, some with chain embel- assistant and bodyguard, and signed a feld x Kaia, designed in collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld collection, which is available lishments, pearl embellishments and grom- denim license with Italy’s Giada SpA. 16-year-old model and “It” girl Kaia Gerber, globally, is featured in the front, while the mets, are featured prominently throughout Excluding the U.S., the Lagerfeld brand which will launch in September. The rtw middle to back of the store spotlights Karl the store. There are separate footwear looks to grow by 30 percent this year, and accessories designs, which include foot- Lagerfeld Paris. (The store runs the length areas, featuring sandals, sneakers, slides following a 30 percent increase last year wear, sunglasses and jewelry, will have a of West Broadway to Thompson Street.) and high heels from both labels. and 16 percent increase in retail sales, as West Coast meets Left Bank sensibility. The Original Lagerfeld sketches are displayed Among the looks are Karl Lagerfeld reported. “That’s overall revenue growth Karl Lagerfeld x Kaia collection will launch throughout the store. At the entrance are tweed dresses for $525, a pink baseball without counting the U.S. If I were to count globally in Lagerfeld stores, online at karl. handbags and accessories under the Karl jacket for $465 and a trenchcoat for $525, the U.S., the growth would have been even com and select wholesale partners. The col- Lagerfeld banner. Day bags, including cross while the Karl Lagerfeld Paris section offers bigger,” Righi said in the January interview. lection is aimed at the Millennial customer, body bags with top handles and Plexiglass tweed jackets for $99.50, a pink dress with Citing Lagerfeld’s joint venture in the U.S. who’s socially connected and travels. novelty clutches, are on display, as well as pearl button sleeves for $168 and blouses with G-III, he said, “Basically in that joint On a walk-through Thursday, where staff a few bags in the shape of Choupette, with for $89.50. venture, we also have several licenses and

eorge Chinsee G eorge by P hotographs was putting the finishing touches on the leather ears popping off the bag. Lagerfeld’s The flagship’s opening will include are getting a royalty out of that.” 4 april 6, 2018

Tech’s Crisis Of Confidence continued from page 1 data vaults at Hudson’s Bay Co. and Under Armour Inc. and Sears Holdings Corp. * Amazon’s seemingly ceaseless expan- sion has led to increased scrutiny, with President Trump keeping the heat on with fire-breathing tweets. * And smartphones and social media have been blamed for everything from dig- ital addictions to shorter attention spans to increased anxiety. As tech grew up, it moved from geeky and remote to hip and innovative. Now the sector is plugged in and filthy rich, settling uneasily into its role as a key part of the new establishment. The digital genie is not going back into the mainframe. But people have become less enamored, leaving average users, Silicon Valley (and brands that rely on the connection between the two) to muddle forward. Facebook has been pushed to the forefront by its scandal around Cambridge Analytica, which secured information from After years of being hip, millions of Facebook accounts and used big tech is coming under it to target voters in the 2016 election. closer scrutiny by users. The scope was massive: As many as 87 million users could have been affected, up could have had their public profile “I started this place, I run it,” he said. this — we need to see what’s going on; we significantly from the 50 million users pre- scraped,” Schroepfer said, pointing to “I’m responsible for what happened need more transparency, accountability,’ viously estimated, according to a blog post a look-up feature that uses phone num- here.” And yet he couched the sentiment, and we’ll start to see the pendulum swing Wednesday by Facebook chief technology bers and e-mails. (Scraping is a web tactic drawing on the complexity of “building back.” officer Mike Schroepfer. to extract data.) Facebook has shut down something like Facebook, which is unprec- Tech’s image problems tend to crest The post covered new changes to plat- the feature. edented in the world. And if we got this and fall like waves, sweeping in and then form and developer tools that set limits On a call with reporters, chief executive right, we would have messed something retreating, again and again. on developer access to user data. The officer Mark Zuckerberg admitted that the else up.” But the recent spate of major tech fail- nine new updates cover Facebook logins, company didn’t have “a broad enough The takeaway: Connecting billions of ures have created a tidal wave-like effect groups, event data and more. view of what our responsibilities were,” people is hard, and fixing the gaps and that’s been building for some time. “We believe most people on Facebook and personally took the blame. securing the network is a process, a job According to a 2014 Pew Internet that may never end. So far, the ceo said & American Life survey, 91 percent of Mark Zuckerberg he hasn’t fired anyone over the scandal, Americans “agreed” or “strongly agreed” is headed to and he plans to expand the team of that people had lost control over how their Capitol Hill next 15,000 people who work on security and personal information was collected and week to explain Facebook’s data content review to 20,000 by year’s end. used. Roughly 80 percent of social media practices with Zuckerberg will testify on Capitol Hill users were worried about advertisers lawmakers. Wednesday. “This hearing will be an and businesses plucking their social data, important opportunity to shed light on and 64 percent believed the government critical consumer data privacy issues and should do more to regulate advertisers. In help all Americans better understand another survey last year, just 9 percent of what happens to their personal infor- social media users reported being “very mation online,” said Rep. Greg Walden confident” that social companies would (R., Ore.) and Frank Pallone Jr. (D., N.J.) protect their data. About half of users were of the House Energy and Commerce not at all or not very confident their data Committee. was safe. Lawmakers are feeding off an increas- The stakes are even higher now, with ingly frustrated populace. implications ranging from the financial to “Consumers are finally getting to the the political to safety. On one end, Uber point where they’re saying, ‘No more, I and Tesla face the literal and figurative don’t want it, let’s delete Facebook,’ or, wreckage of recent self-driving car fatali- ‘I want to punish the company,’” said Kit ties. On the other, Facebook contends with Yarrow, a consumer psychologist at Golden its latest data privacy scandal. In between Gate University and author of “Decoding lie many complex layers representing hun- the New Consumer Mind: How and Why dreds of millions of user data profiles and We Shop and Buy.” billions of discrete facts about how average But signing out of Facebook or drop- people live and operate online. ping tech completely could be hard or Reconciling that with the evolution of impossible. modern retail is a hard calculus. Customer “We have changed our psychology data is the lifeblood of e-commerce and through the use of Facebook and we plays a growing role in physical stores as are now, I would say, dependent on it,” well, fueling recommendations, person- Yarrow said. “People look at it like a alized services and more. But that flow of lifeline to relationships. People have also information doesn’t work if people can’t been presenting this idealized version of trust their brands and service providers. themselves through Facebook, and they “What’s going on is real,” said Karsten become attached to this persona and they Weide, program vice president of digital don’t want to let that go. It’s almost like an media and entertainment at IDC. “People avatar in a way, ‘That’s a me that’s relevant are getting more concerned about privacy, to me.’” and the reason is that the data breaches So it won’t be an easy or simple process, have become much more frequent than but Yarrow said change has come. just once a year. I think this is here to stay. “All of this is OK, it’s normal,” she said. “As we get closer to the midterms [elec- “It’s wonderful, in fact, that we’ve now tions], this is going to become more of an seen the limits of what we’re willing to issue,” he said. “A lot of politicians will be tolerate. And I’m not sure what shape using this for grandstanding, and so there it will take, but there will be pressure, will be calls for more privacy regulation. where really collectively we all say, ‘OK, I There will even be calls for the breakup

think that’s about all we can manage with Continued on page 5 Chiu/ RE X/Shutterstock Jeff by Zuckerberg Chiu/ AP / RE X/Shutterstock; Jeff by photograph Facebook april 6, 2018 5

Continued from page 4 office, its tax treatment or its general size and influence in the economy. of Facebook, the breakup of Amazon, the But his attacks on Amazon have had real breakup of Google, perhaps. In Europe, stock market impact. Since Trump’s beef they’re further along than we are.” with Amazon resurfaced last week, the Next month, the European Union’s Gen- high-profile tech stock is down 3 percent eral Data Protection Regulation will go into to 1,451.75, shedding nearly $22 billion effect, requiring companies to be more in market value and spooking Wall Street transparent with users about the data they traders overall. collect and how they’ll use it. The rules Consultant Jonathan Low, partner also give consumers more control over at Predictiv, said Trump’s attacks are their own information. Some social media really directed at The Washington Post, companies plan to take the EU compliance which Bezos owns personally, rather standard beyond Europe and apply it than any antitrust impulse against Ama- universally. zon. (Trump’s latest tweet on Amazon “We’re taking a global approach to bears this out, describing the Post as the GDPR, to help ensure all members benefit web giant’s “chief lobbyist.”) from increased control and clarity,” said a “The underlying issue is potentially LinkedIn spokeswoman. much more devastating — and I think it Facebook will as well and, according to has to be not with Facebook’s abuse in Zuckerberg, the company already com- data and not with Amazon taking over the plies with much of the GDPR. “We intend world — it’s with the fact that every busi- to make all the same controls and settings ness today is a tech business,” Low said. available everywhere, not just in Europe,” “And part of the success of tech and the he said, though formats may differ depend- companies that have adapted to tech is ing on local markets and regional laws. that they’re getting their raw materials for Apple’s tendency to Weide said the rest of the world could free from consumers and I think the fear hold tight to user data look to Europe as a template, and pointed is that that’s what’s going to end,” he said. might give it an to both Canada and Australia, which are “Margins are going to shrink dramatically advantage as looking at privacy regulation, as exam- because there will be more rules out the consumer privacy ples. He expects at least some companies use of data, where there may be less access concerns spike. to go above and beyond, like LinkedIn, to data and companies will have to pay which could help address some of the more. Consumers may even be compen- privacy: Digital tokens act like a set of keys versus the free-to-use, or monetized com- public’s discomfort. sated for their data somehow.” that give users access and control over their panies like Google and Facebook, is that While Facebook was pushed into the A newer breed of startup has begun to data. Shop aims to create an economy of Apple doesn’t have a business model with spotlight over data for the Trump cam- take hold to address data privacy through sorts, with tokens acting as both retail cur- monetizing data flow,” explained Rurik paign, it feels like the President himself blockchain technology, and they’re get- rency and a basis for loyalty programs. Bradbury, global head of conversational is trying to drag Jeff Bezos’ Amazon into ting plenty of attention in the financial, In assessing the landscape today, one strategy at LivePerson, which helps retail- center ring. healthcare and retail sectors. Groups particular tech giant stands out to Shop ers integrate with the new iOS business Trump continued his Twitter attack on like Hypr, Token and Shop believe that ceo John Wantz: “I think my respect for features. “The data in the messages is the e-commerce giant this week. decentralizing data, so there is no single Apple is growing lately. Because govern- encrypted up to the point where it hits “I am right about Amazon costing the repository or overseeing organization, is ments are so intrusive on telecommunica- the brand, and then encrypted on the way United States Post Office massive amounts key to safeguarding people’s information. tions, it had to develop a position [saying,] back again. So they’re not looking at what’s of money for being their Delivery Boy,” The premise appeals to players of all sizes, ‘Either we’ll be completely open like happening in these conversations, and Trump tweeted. “Amazon should pay these including payment giants like MasterCard, Android, and let any government in any they don’t have any interest in looking.… costs (plus) and not have them bourne [sic] which has been linking up with blockchain country have carte blanche access to the That’s quite positive for brands who don’t by the American Taxpayer. Many billions companies, and even Zuckerberg himself. data, or we decide whose side we’re on want to have their connection to custom- of dollars. P.O. leaders don’t have a clue In January, the 33-year-old Facebook ceo and maybe we cryptographically secure ers digitally mediated.” (or do they?)!” pledged to fix the myriad issues plaguing [it].” The way the iPhone maker built its Those relationships are more fraught That puts the President at odds with at his platform — such as the “fake news technology and architecture impresses than ever. Today, the need for privacy safe- least some of the experts in his own admin- epidemic” — he also said he would explore Wantz — it uses cryptography in various guards and the demand for services can istration. The blog of the Postal Service’s encryption and blockchain. Hindsight parts of its software, including FaceTime work like opposing forces. “Consumers Inspector General noted that “growth in offers extra context, as it’s clear now that and iMessage. say, ‘I don’t mind giving away my data, as packages is most welcome, especially as it Zuckerberg had long known about Cam- When Apple launched Business Chat for long as I know what data that is, and what continues to lose letter mail volumes.” bridge Analytica by this point. iMessage last week, its approach to user I get in return,’” IDC’s Weide said. “So you It remains to be seen if Trump can keep Blockchain startups like Shop, a coop- control stood out. People can mute or have to talk about the quid pro quo, some- his attention trained on Amazon long erative that won Shoptalk’s Start-up Pitch silence brands, and they initiate all chats, thing of value you provide in return.” enough to enact any real policies regarding Competition last month, believe in a not the companies. In Facebook’s case, the value lies in the company’s relationship with the post tokenized approach to security and data “Another major difference with Apple the connection to family and friends, or perhaps benefiting from ads aligned with their interests. “Most of the content that Facebook knows about you, it’s because you chose to share that content with your friends and put it on your profile,” said Zuckerberg. “And we’re going to use data to make the services better, whether that’s ranking news feed or ads or search, or helping you connect with people through people who you know. But we’re never going to sell your information.” He knows his company hasn’t done a good job of conveying that to people, and when it comes to public trust, such failures are a fundamental problem. But it’s also an opportunity for businesses, if they’re clear about the data they gather, how they will use it and how they will protect it. Today, dense terms of service, complex privacy settings or automatic opt-ins for unwanted features can seem like hos- tile acts toward consumers. Against that backdrop, greater care and transparency work as powerful differentiators, especially for customer relationship-oriented sectors like retail. Businesses capable of conveying that they’re built to serve people, not pull one over on them — and actually mean it — could stand out. And so with another turn of the tech wheel, changes in one area might be open- ing up new opportunities in another — and In friendlier times: Donald Trump listens to Jeff Bezos, the two buffered perhaps a chance for fashion brands to

K ER / RE X/Shutterstock RO M aksymenko/imageB O leksiy A pple by AP / RE X/Shutterstock; by rump photograph by Microsoft ceo Satya Nadella at a White House meeting last year. T benefit from a fresh start. 6 april 6, 2018

Cosmoprof Report Beauty Suppliers Talk New Challenges in Market Landscape ● Retailers, consumers and indie brands’ needs are inexorably changing the shape of manufacturers’ practices today.

By Jennifer Weil, Jenny B. Fine and Sandra Salibian Photographs by Davide Maestri

BOLOGNA, Italy — Agility. Speed. Sus- tainability. They’re the main tenets of the beauty industry today, and suppliers are adjusting their structures accordingly. From South Korea to Italy, companies such as Intercos, HCT and Gotha have over the past 12 months made acquisitions or started up operations in new facilities in order to maintain their sharp edge. The Ultas and Sephoras of this world are emphasizing the need for speed, and it’s their consumers, especially from Gen- eration Z and the Millennials, beating the drum ever louder. The call for change comes also from indie brands that work in a flexible, lick- ety-split fashion, requiring their supplier partners to do the same for decision-mak- ing, tweaking and twisting of formulas — almost in “real-time.” New products While such demands are ratcheting at HCT Group. up, there is a growing number of players jockeying for pole position, cranking up the factories and 11 research centers in Europe, 10 percent increase for this year. Noting that A marbled technique, involving a dark base heat even further. Asia and the U.S. That activity last year gen- the company talks to at least one new brand with streaks of color, was also on show. So “Today it’s more interesting because we erated revenue of about 700 million euros. a week, he continued, speaking at Cosmo- were hybrid products, such as the lipstick start to have more competitors. The com- Internally, Intercos has been undergo- pack, the cosmetics packaging trade branch featuring a transparent bullet with a swirl- petitors are challenging. You really want to ing some changes as well. In August, the of Cosmoprof, “It’s a bigger market, but it’s ing vortex of color at the core — allowing kill them,” said Dario Ferrari, chairman of Ontario Teachers’ Pension took a 20.588 also more competitive.” for the merging of color and care, and a Intercos, the industry’s dominant cosmetics percent stake in the company. Last January, New products at HCT focused on see-through bullet containing a suspended supplier, with a laugh. Renato Semerari was named chief executive growing sociocultural trends, such as a ball of gel that releases color. The executive was speaking with WWD at officer, with oversight of Europe and the long-wearing, sweat-resistant foundation The patented Prisma technology allowed company headquarters in Agrate Brianza, U.S. Ferrari, meanwhile, still steers Asia and formula that was showcased as part of powders to be crafted into three-dimen- just outside of Milan, a day prior to the innovation for the group. the Ath-leisure collection. The company sional shapes at Intercos, where there was start of the recent Cosmoprof Worldwide “We are planning to balance Europe also showed a talc-free, water-repellent an emphasis on customization. Bologna beauty trade show session, which — [which] I believe is very strong — with eyeshadow that remains crease-free, cap- “All of the clients want fast-track beauty,” ran from March 15 to 19. South Korea, with Asia, so we have two very italizing on a growing trend of carrier oils said April Martin, director of strategic mar- “To kill the competitors, you need to be strong innovation points,” he said. as effective bases for shadows. keting at the company. “They want things the best,” Ferrari explained. “We are trying to get the best from each In skin care, HCT debuted a sleeping they can launch immediately. They see it Innovation is his weapon of choice, country,” Ferrari continued, listing lipstick mask with tea tree designed for acne-prone online, they see it on Instagram, and they so Intercos plans to double its capacity produced from the U.S., foundation from skin, as well as a triple-action sleeping want it now,” she said. for that in part due to its investment in Asia, powder from Italy and skin care from mask with cellulose exfoliating beads that “And they want to change their look Asia, especially South Korea, where a new Switzerland, for instance. dissolve on application. every month, so that’s our answer,” plant was built in just six months through Intercos is far from alone in stressing For its part, Chromavis, a division of continued Rachel Bryan, vice president its joint venture with Shinsegae, called acquisition and innovation in its pipeline. Fareva, is focused on the U.S. market of strategic marketing and multinational Shinsegae Intercos Korea Inc. “The primary challenge is the demand and improving its speed of innovation, account development at Intercos. “More Elsewhere in Asia, Intercos has four for innovation,” said Tim Thorpe, pres- moving from a development period of than ever, we have to know what the plants in China, and in February it ident and ceo of HCT Group, repeating 24 months to six to nine months, said consumer wants, and the consumer voice revealed a joint original design manufac- the last word five times for emphasis. Benoit Portier, executive vice president of is driving product development.” turing (or ODM) business venture in Japan “Our goal is to create and commercialize sales, marketing and R&D at the company, That was true for the company Gotha with Sumitomo Corp. 52 innovations a year, one a week. The which is owned by Fareva. “Brands today in conceiving its Second Chance Mascara In the U.S., Intercos is considering making delivery system is key and the formulas are shoppers,” he said. “Product devel- Drops, which garnered the two top prizes a purchase to expand capacity. “But there are changing more than ever before,” he opment has changed. They don’t have among the Cosmopack Awards that were are not many things to buy in the States,” continued. “Twenty years ago, you had the time anymore, so we are doing more given out at the show, which drew over he lamented. Overall, the executive said he an interesting format or a great market- consumer-driven marketing.” 250,000 visitors, the level reached during finds companies expensive these days. ing strategy or something in packaging. Chromavis’ turnover in the cosmetics the 2017 session. Eleven percent more Still, in June, Intercos bought Cosmint, Today, the whole thing has to be great.” sector in 2017 was almost 186 million international attendees were present than the Olgiate Comasco, Italy-based manufac- HCT Group had sales of about $700 euros, and the company is growing at in the prior year. turer of skin, hair and body care with 15 million in 2017, and Thorpe is projecting a 35 percent per annum. The goal is to Gotha got the gold as winner in the best double sales by 2020, when a new 50 mil- makeup formula category and the “best lion-euro production facility is scheduled of the best” category with its drops billed to open in Italy. to be the first mascara life extender. They “All of the clients want fast-track beauty. In terms of innovation, all of the were part of Gotha’s ASAP (As Sustainable companies were showcasing myriad new As Possible) line. They want things they can launch products for clients. Intercos launched “We wanted to really focus on sustainabil- more than 100 new formulas, including ity because we think this is a very important immediately. They see it online, they see it those in its trend collection with on-point, issue today — not only for the industry, ready-to-go products. but for the consumers,” said Chiara Pani, on Instagram and they want it now.” For the lipstick category, for instance, the marketing director at the Lallio, Italy-based company’s latest technology enables the supplier, at its booth in Cosmopack. — April Martin, Intercos molding of bullets into intricate sculptures. Continued on page 7 april 6, 2018 7

Intercos’ Dario and James Thorpe, Jenny Gotha Cosmetics’ Arabella Ferrari Hsu and Tim Thorpe. Martin Breuer and Chiara Pani.

Continued from page 6 “I see companies investing in manufac- — you are giving an opportunity to anyone “I like to describe [us] as a disruptor of turing plants which are more sustainable without discriminating because of age or the usual B2B companies because we do “Consumers are asking for products than in the past,” said Rossano Bozzi, race or skin or color. I think this is very things differently,” he said. “We have a that have powerful performances, but also director of Cosmopack. “Ten years ago, important for the beauty industry, and it’s very flexible, dynamic setup, and we have represent solutions that are not only user- everybody [wanted] to do something more a good example for all industries. It’s very in-house only our core processes.” friendly but also environmentally-friendly. sustainable…but nobody concretely did it. sustainable I would say, somehow.” Breuer sees the rise of indie labels We realize that the attention consumers give What I see now is that they are doing some- Gotha’s main business is generated in as good news for ODM and other busi- to this aspect is increasing, and very much thing concretely sustainable. Ten years the U.S., where Breuer said the company is ness-to-business concerns. Whereas estab- increasing these past few years,” she said. ago, it was a trend. Now it is something that well-positioned with most indie brands. lished brands have a lab and production Pani explained the Second Chance you need if you want to work with the big “Our way is attuned to the new way of facility, the new players do not. Mascara Drops — which come as water- brands, as well.” how the disruptors work, because estab- “Where we are extremely strong is we based and non-water-based iterations — Gotha — which is known particularly for lished brands and indie brands work dif- act really as an external laboratory to those not only extend the life of a mascara but its lip products and primers — had just a few ferently,” he said. “Indie brands are much young brands,” said Breuer. “We make sure help boost the formula’s color, plus give days prior inaugurated its new headquarters quicker, fast to market.” that we customize whatever we have already nourishing, moisturizing and replenishing and production plant. The 270,000-square- They tend to have a one-year product exactly to the taste and the target of the properties to lashes. foot site, not far from its prior facility, has roadmap, unlike the traditional three-year brand. So it’s a different way of working.” “So you’re doing good for your lashes on it a 160,000-square-foot factory able to plan of more established brands. Ferrari noted ODM companies have and at the same time you’re doing good triple the company’s output. “How can you know today what the in some ways have become more pop- for the planet and for nature, because you “A new production area, new offices, a consumer wants in 2021?” asked Breuer. ular than brands, commanding greater avoid plastic waste because you’re not new showroom, new customer area – a very “You have no clue. multiples on stock exchanges like in South rebuying a new bottle of mascara,” she said. modern building has been constructed,” “So what the indie brands do is they’re Korea, for example. “I believe that nowadays, consumers are said Martin Breuer, Gotha Cosmetics ceo. much closer to the actual trend in the “Because in reality, there are so many looking for transparency from brands,” said “We have big plans for the future,” said market, much closer to the consumer, and brands, and the brands can be disrupted Pani. “They want to buy something that is Pani of the supplier, which has been regis- I’ve seen them also prepare options,” he from one day to the other,” he said. worth buying, that is good for the planet and tering 30 percent sales growth. continued. “Then they draw the option they “Fortunately, we are in the middle of the not only for them or for the brands’ profits.” In makeup, she sees the theme of diver- think is in line with what the consumer is at distribution, and we can sell to everybody. She said young consumers especially sity as very important. “Together with that point looking for.” We can sell to mass. We can sell to prestige. are concerned about the state of the sustainability, inclusivity and diversity Breuer said it’s important to have “your We can sell to the multinational companies, earth, and the materials and components will really accompany us in the next few internal process, your structure, your deci- and we can sell to emerging brands. We can used in products. Gotha is intent on years,” said Pani. “They go along with sion-making, your team really working in a sell to e-tailers. We can sell to retailers. And, formulating in a clean way, as are a lot of customization, because if you include… way which is synchronized with the way the of course, our strategy has been always other packaging suppliers. diversity, you are of course customizing indie brands are working.” innovation, innovation, innovation.”

launch pad: Cosmoprof edition B.Kos skin kiwi, coconut, marula, wakame care seaweed and sesame. products. The skin-care line features body creams, lotions and Natural Beauty: scrubs, and odor-free face products for every skin type. It ranges from moisturizing cream, retailing for 29 euros, to Grassroots No More antiaging options, for 38 euros. The complete makeup collection Green products were highlighted by brands at this year’s Cosmoprof. counts 12 products coming in a By Sandra Salibian with contributions from Jennifer Weil wide variety of shades, making photographs by Davide Maestri for a total of 52 units. The brand is mainly distribut- BOLOGNA, Italy — Green comes cluding children, men and athletes. Home base: Monza, Italy ed in Italy, retailing in selective in many guises when it comes Some labels eschewed water in Year founded: 2017 perfumeries such as Mazzolari to beauty products these days. their formulations and instead and Douglas, in addition to This Made in Italy brand pro- That was a key takeaway from used ingredients such as tea pharmacies. Next up, B.Kos will duces certified natural and the most recent session of infusion or fruit and plant extracts. hit Marionnaud shelves and waterless skin care and makeup. Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, Others centered their beauty ex- roll out through its own online Its concept is to make organic which ran from March 15 to 19 perience around rituals meant to store. beauty products appealing with and where natural and cosmetics generate well-being, both physical Key products: B.Crema Viso their packaging and formulations products were very much on and mental. Here, a look at some of Idratante moisturizing cream boasting a high percentage of the rise. innovative brands spotted. with wakame seaweed, B.Cre- vitamin-rich ingredients. These There, brands were showcasing ma Viso Anti-Età antiage cream include fruit juices and plant green products targeting specific B.Kos and B.Olio Prezioso face oil. extracts, such as pomegranate, demographics like never before, in- Founder: Mariella Talamo Continued on page 8 8 april 6, 2018

billed to keep tea’s antiaging and Continued from page 7 Oliorito oils and brush. antioxidant powers at a high level in cosmetics preparations. Five Bellabaci different types of teas are used Founder: Keren Trabelsi in the line, including white tea and Home Base: Cape Town, South blue tea, from China and Japan. Africa Teaology is now sold in stores in Year founded: 2008 about 20 countries worldwide. Spa owner Keren Trabelsi Online selling kicks off in April via launched the Bellabaci brand to teaologyskincare.com. bring cupping therapy into her Key products: Include Green Tea clients’ homes. The label’s first Detox Face Scrub and White Tea and signature products are soft Miracle Drops. silicone cups to be used with the waterless Genie in a Bottle range Vivaio Days of treatment oils. Those address Founders: Elina Lampaki and common concerns such as cellu- Marios Stamatelopoulos lite, damaged skin, stretch marks, Home Base: Santa Monica, Calif. muscular pains, varicose veins Year founded: 2018 and circulation issues. Vivaio Days is a natural cosmetics The brand’s latest addition is line conceived for babies, kids and the Bellabaci Sport range, includ- moms. The project originated from ing three lotions to be used before Vivaiodays.com, an e-tailer for sus- and after gym sessions. tainable goods and gifts for kids The brand is distributed world- that also funds child education wide, including in South Africa, Italy, Bellabaci Sport initiatives in Latin America, India, Switzerland, Austria, the U.K, the Uganda and Kenya. U.S., Saudi Arabia, Canada, Japan The brand’s founders Elina Lam- and Australia. Its products are paki and Marios Stamatelopoulos, available through Bellabaci’s online each with 20-year experience store, as well. in the beauty business, got the Key products: The Bellabaci idea of developing their web site’s Sport range, including the Fire Up namesake cosmetics line during a pre-workout lotion, the Cool Down trip in Borneo, where they noticed muscle recovery lotion and the kids with faces covered in a yellow SOS repair ointment. paste made of turmeric blended with other natural ingredients Hommer effective for sun protection. They Founder: Minos Zarifopoulos then created their first Turmeric Home Base: Athens Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Year founded: 2015 product and decided to create Combining the name of the Greek a broader line with other items Hommer poet Homer and the French word Teaology Tea based on centuries-old healing founder Minos for man, “homme,” the Hommer Infusion Skincare. remedies from around the world. Zarifopoulos. cosmetics brand manufactures These include natural elements beard-grooming products based such as olive oil from Greece, on natural ingredients — such as apricot oil from India and rose hemp, barbary fig, argan and hazel- geranium leaves from Africa. nut oils — and enhanced with a Produced in Europe, Vivaio scent mixing woody, bitter choco- Days will hit shelves in the U.S. in late and vetiver notes. the next couple of months, where After debuting with the Beard it will retail at Anthropologie stores Shampoo, Beard Oil and Beard and indie beauty shops such as Wipes, the range was expanded Credo and The Detox Market. with styling products, including the Key products: Olive Oil All-Purpose Hommer Balmade and the Matte Rescue Balm Gel, Rose Geranium Paste for hair and mustaches, Cleansing Water and Turmeric which contain hemp oil, beeswax, Broad Spectrum Sunscreen. carnauba wax and castor oil. Lesielle Cosmetics’ Following the launch of two founder Rubén Warew scents, the brand this year Rubiales Vázquez. Founder: Koichi Seta unveiled a shaving range with a Home Base: Tokyo pre-shave oil, shaving cream and Year founded: 2011 two antiaging after-shave balms, Warew emphasizes the impor- featuring vegetable taurine and tance of having a healthy skin. All Tremella mushroom, a natural of the skin-care label’s items are replacement for hyaluronic acid. derived from 95 percent natural Hommer is distributed in elements and more than 90 Greece, France, Germany, Spain, percent ingredients culled from Switzerland and Scandinavia. Its Japan. Their formulations are products are also available on the based on four traditional plant brand’s e-commerce site, which ingredients found domestically provides worldwide shipping. — plum, cherry tree bark, pine Key products: Hommer Beard needles and magnolia bark — that Vivaio Days Shampoo and Beard Wipes with are blended with patented tech- founders Marios hemp oil, and the new Antiaging nology into an ingredient called Stamatelopoulos After Shave Balm Long Journey. Cell Viable Complex. and Elina Lampaki. At Cosmoprof, the company Lesielle unveiled its newest, more high-end person’s skin type and favorite Cosmetics Oliorito Sussh line, which was first con- texture, and then between one Founder: Rubén Rubiales Vázquez Founders: Anna Semenzato and ceived in 2016 and is also based on and four treatment products are Home Base: Jerez de la Frontera, Roberto Bonfanti a patented technology involving mi- added to that. Spain Home Base: Bologna, Italy crospheres containing active ingre- Altogether, there are 16 treat- Year founded: 2016 Year founded: 2018 dients and covered with positively ments available that are divided Warew charged hyaluronic acid to react Spanish pharmacist Rubén Rubi- into six categories, such as anti- After contributing to the launch Sussh line. with the skin, which is negatively ales Vázquez was in Switzerland aging, antioxidants, redness, im- of several beauty startups, Anna when he realized that finding charged. Once the particles pene- perfections, care and protection, Semenzato decided to partner The range includes Cautha, the three oils in a 10-ml. format will the perfect skin-care product trate skin, the microspheres open acne and tone. Once the base with formulator Roberto Bonfanti which aims to reduce tensions go for 24 euros. for himself was a difficult task, and release active ingredients, and active ingredients flacons to found their own cosmetics in the body and mind with a mix Key products: The Cautha face, usually resulting in the purchase which stimulate cells to prevent an are introduced into the machine, brand Oliorito. The label’s concept of olive oil, lavender and saffron body and hair oil; the Semia body and combination of different, enzyme from “chewing up” elastin with the press of a button a single revolves around the idea that ritu- flowers. Semia has regenerating and hair oil, and the Thesan body oil. expensive creams. So in March and regenerate damaged collagen, dose of customized skin care als are the means to boost one’s and soothing properties, thanks 2016 he decided to create a sin- among other benefits. pops out instantaneously. own self-awareness and physical to its blend of hazelnut oil, myrrh Teaology gle tool able to produce all types Warew is available in Japan, Distribution for Lesielle and mental well-being. and vanilla extracts. And Thesan is Tea Infusion of skin-care products, thereby Spain and Italy, where it will also Adaptive Skin Care will start in For this reason, they developed meant to stimulate physical move- Skincare minimizing costs and ecological open a flagship in Milan in June. The Europe in October. The machine a range including a trio of natural ment and thought with camphor, Founder: Paolo Bevegni footprints, and making personal- brand plans to launch in the U.K. and is to retail at 85 euros, while a set oils and a brush to be used in a marjoram and hemp oil. Home Base: Monza, Italy ization more affordable. in the United Arab Emirates next. of five products, including a base three-step process. Inspired by The line’s distribution will start Year founded: 2015 Key products: Warew Cell Viable Rubiales Vázquez and his and four active ingredients good ancient recipes and Etruscan cos- in Italian perfumeries later this This natural brand, which is made Organics Cleansing Oil, Washing team developed a small machine for 70 doses — or a five-week metics traditions, Oliorito formulas year, as will the launch of Oliorito’s in Italy, has approximately 30 Foam and Emulsion Aqua. Sussh able to produce made-to-mea- treatment — will be priced at 35 are obtained through long mac- online store. The oils are to retail products for face and body formu- Ocean Microbiome Technology sure skin care quickly. How it euros. eration processes, during which at 68 euros each, while the Losna lated with tea infusion, rather than Moisturizing Blue Soap, Soothing works is a Lesielle base product Lesielle Adaptive organic medicinal plants soak in Key products: brossage brush will be 28 euros. In water. The infusion is produced Eye Cream and Night Regenera- is chosen according to each Skin Care. pure oils under the sun. addition, a Take Off Set comprising using a newly patented technology tion Mask. april 6, 2018 9

Influence Peddler time for spring weather. For evening designs, she went with jacquard and embroidered organza fabrics. Julia Engel According to ShopStyle, Gal Meets Glam drove $6.5 million of sales to Creates Line retailers in 2017. Of those sales, $1.8 million were in the dress category, Of Dresses which was ShopStyle’s second-highest category in terms of influencer sales At Nordstrom driven to retailers in 2017. Engel added that her goal was to cre- continued from page 1 ate pieces that would outlive fast-fash- ion trends. “When designing a piece, approachable price point.” I think about if our customer will still The Gal Meets Glam Collection fea- want to wear it five years from now,” tures a size-inclusive range of dresses she said. “You won’t find any trendy — sizes 00 to 20 — manufactured by details, but you will find thoughtful Maggy London. The limited-run collec- elements that are true to my personal tions will roll out on a monthly basis style like bows, ruffles, pockets and with 20 to 25 new styles each time. covered buttons.” The line will be available for pur- The social media maven was also care- chase exclusively in 40 Nordstrom ful to consider her 1.1 million followers stores and on nordstrom.com, as well on Instagram, who she said identify with as on the Gal Meets Glam web site. her “love of all things feminine.” “We know our customers love Julia “Gal Meets Glam has always been and are excited to see the Gal Meets about positivity and inclusiveness. I Glam collection come to life in our want women to look and feel incred- stores and online,” said Tricia Smith, ible,” she said. “We wanted as many executive vice president and general people as possible to be able to shop merchandise manager of women’s from our line so size inclusivity was apparel for Nordstrom. “It’s collabora- something that was extremely import- tions like this that allow us to contin- ant to us.” ually bring newness to our customers Engel’s exclusive relationship with and give them a sense of discovery.” Nordstrom ends in January 2019. At Priced at under $200 each, the dress that point, she’ll be able to distribute designs are inspired by Engel’s love for wholesale — and plans to do so widely. vintage fashion, specifically silhouettes Asked whether she sees herself from the Forties and Fifties. She was expanding beyond dresses in the future, also influenced by the year-round mild Engel said the possibility is there, but weather of Charleston, S.C., where she’s solely focused on dresses for the she’s based. time being. “I personally love styles that are “I think it’s important that it remains fitted at the waist and I love a full skirt my focus right now and that we are able — lots of skirt — so you’ll constantly see to connect, identify and meet our cus- that throughout the collection,” she tomers needs before we expand,” she said. As she’d like to see women “wear said. “We believe that the collection is more dresses daily,” most of her designs the future of Gal Meets Glam. Our plan — “about 70 percent” — are day dresses is to build a brand that women can rely made in cottons, linens and crepes in Julia Engel on for feminine, classic style.”

business Under Armour Sues Former NFL Player Over Tag Line ● The athleticwear company cease-and-desist letter with “I’ll see you in uses “I Will” extensively in court,” Under Armour said. branding and store marketing. “For years, Under Armour has continu- ously and extensively used and promoted By Kali Hays the trademark/tag line ‘I Will’ in connec- tion with its business, products and ser- Under Armour is not pleased that its vices in various ways,” the company said motivational “I Will” tag line is being used in its complaint. “As a result, the ‘I Will’ by a former football player trying to build mark has become famous as a succinct up his new fitness business. symbol of Under Armour’s brand values Michael Phelps featured in Under The company last month sued Ike Wil- and philosophy.” Armour’s 2016 “Rule Yourself” campaign. liams in California federal court, alleging The company added that it’s been using trademark infringement over the former the phase in marketing and promotion since of Under Armour’s rights, [the] defendant mark,” the company said. NFL player’s branding of his fitness train- at least 1998, two years after it was founded, has acted knowingly, willfully, in reckless It’s suing for trademark infringement and ing business and an upcoming apparel line and that it appeared on everything from disregard of those rights and in bad faith.” dilution, cybersquatting and unfair com- as the I Will Academy, with “I Will” be used products to in-store displays to television The company added that Williams’ petition and asked the court to order the predominantly in promotional efforts. commercials over the years. It also holds extensive use of “I Will” is likely to “cause resignation of the domain name along with Williams allegedly took to Instagram four trademarks covering the phrase. confusion, mistake and deception” a permanent injunction against Williams’ to reveal his plans to launch a line of “Further still, like Under Armour, [Wil- among the public about the source of his use of the “I Will” mark. Under Armour T-shirts, hoodies socks and boxers featur- liams] has been using #IWill to promote good and “falsely suggest” a connection also asked that he be prohibited from regis- ing the “I Will” tag line. Under Armour his services and business plans, and between him and Under Armour. tering a trademark for I Will Academy and said he bought a domain name using the has made social media posts on Twitter “Defendant’s acts have damaged and be forced to hand over any profits realized phrase last year and has rebuffed the about Under Armour’s ceo Kevin Plank in irreparably injured and, if permitted to from the use of the trademark. company’s attempts to settle the dispute connection with the unauthorized ‘I Will’ continue, will further damage and irrepa- Williams could not be immediately out of court. He responded to a January marks,” Under Armour said. “Fully aware rably injure Under Armour and its ‘I Will’ reached for comment. 10 april 6, 2018

do you get that?’ and she’ll say, ‘I made Kimora Lee Simmons helping out for the it.’ There are so many shoes. I’m like her nonprofit The packing facility and distribution, because Unmentionables. I get so many packages.” All in all, Simmons loves that kids and young people can lend their voices and personalities to brands as influencers. She said she tells students all the time that the fashion industry “needs fresh minds and young creative people that we mentor.” Her own business pursuits include Codage skin care, which is sold in Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, as well as the energy drink Celsius. “It is clinically proven to be a negative calorie drink. So your metabolism is boosted and you will burn at least 100 calories. And that’s proven and it has to be to make claims like that,” she said, adding other initia- tives in fashion, film and entertainment are in the works — all self-funded. She said with a laugh, “I am the investor. I am investing in a lot of brands. Sometimes it’s sweat equity but working, growing. But you come from a different place of authenticity when you invest your own capital. You can tell people, ‘Yeah, I drink Celsius too.’ My history in business over the past 20 years — that’s what resonates the best with my fan base or consumer base. They like that you are genuinely attached to it. They believe that and they can see that I use it too. I lost 21 pounds since January. I use Celsius, I work out and I practice some of what I preach.” As for last month’s movie theater death threat, Simmons said she only learned about it after the fact. “I had taken a couple of hundred kids from the inner eye city to see ‘A Wrinkle in Time’ so I was in the building when it happened. We did a meet-and-greet and a photo-op,” she said. “You never know with those things. They should always be taken seriously. I hope it’s just some silly kids. But I did Kimora Lee Simmons’ not personally have a problem that day or report it. I found out when everyone else found out.” Russell Simmons, meanwhile, has disputed claims of sexual misconduct Look on Life, Charity including rape allegations. (The couple ● In addition to her lead divorced in 2009.) Kimora Simons said, mind recent dramas. When asked, she Kimora Lee Simmons Scholarship Fund. “It’s not up to me to really address things global ambassadorship answered. Speaking without hesitation — On different holidays, we go out and give that happened for him. Obviously, we with The Unmentionables, and absent of talking points and publi- toys, canned goods or whatever. We’ve have kids and my main focus is usually Simmons is finishing up her cists — Simmons can’t help but sound worked with Make-a-Wish,” she said. “I dealing with my kids and my family. I like someone who is telling you what she feel like it’s been an ongoing note in the wouldn’t feel it’s my place to comment or undergrad degree, advising really thinks. But her new role with The tone of their lives. They’re young so it’s address things like that. I would always her 18-year-old model- Unmentionables, a nonprofit that helps important they know that you don’t live a say, ‘You should speak to him…or I’m not influencer daughter and people living in displaced communities, certain life because of your hard work. It’s there, I wasn’t in it.’ Some of the things was her focus. your parents’ hard work or the businesses were like when I was three [years old]. eyeing new business ventures. In time for World Refugee Day on that we have. I’ve been working in the Some of them span a good length of time. By Rosemary Feitelberg June 22, she and her family will travel to business since I was 10 or 11.” I wouldn’t know the dates. I don’t really Greece to help migrant families in The She continued. “We’re a unit, but deal with these people or know them. It’s Despite having what others might Unmentionables’ facility where sexual you did not do it — you go to school. It’s just not my place to comment on some- consider a trying few months, Kimora health and reproductive education and important that they don’t get too big- thing that I don’t know much about.” Lee Simmons has taken on another new care to refugees. The organization esti- headed about their lives…It’s important to As for how his spirits are, his ex-wife challenge as the lead global ambassador mated that more than 75 percent of those see there are people living outside of your described them as “OK. Any time that for The Unmentionables. en route to Europe taking the central town — where you went on a class trip, you have something like that it’s probably Forget the usual rigmarole of raising Mediterranean route are facing “appalling on a vacation or maybe somewhere you always very tough on the person, not just four children and running a fashion label levels of abuse, exploitation and traffick- would like to visit — who are displaced.” something like that but anything in life in unsteady times. The designer is earning ing.” After Hurricane Harvey struck last Her eldest daughter Ming Lee Sim- that would come at you in that nature. the final credits for her undergraduate fall, leaving $125 billion in damage in its mons wants to pursue a business degree It probably takes a lot to always defend degree from the University of Hartford, wake, Simmons and her children, who once she graduates from high school this yourself and vigorously defend your name leading the occasional seminar, building range in age from three to 18, pitch in spring. The teenager “doesn’t have an and your image.” skin-care and energy-drink businesses with the group’s relief efforts in Texas. agent or anything,” she is doing a little She continued, “But of course, that’s and eyeing new career opportunities. Add Her matched donations on Giving Tues- modeling and working as an influencer. what I would do if this were my situa- to that the fact her ex-husband Russell is day generated a record-breaking $24,000 With 642,000 Instagram followers, she tion. Again, you raise kids, you have a fending off allegations of sexual miscon- for The Unmentionables — thanks in part has worked with Kode, Galore, Good family, you want to try to teach them the duct and a few lawsuits. Last month, she to her robust social media following. American and M Jewellers. Kimora Lee right thing. So you have to fight for what was the target of a graffiti-ed death threat “Since they were little, we have always Simmons said, “Sometimes she’ll have you believe in, for what’s right and fight in a Los Angeles movie theater. And a few had philanthropic missions. I have the cuter shoes than me and I’ll say, ‘Where’d to always have the truth come out for months back, when California wildfires all parties involved. I think that’s very posed a different kind of threat, she and important. I’m sure it can be very tiring her husband Tim Leissner evacuated their or daunting when you’re dealing with family — pets and all — from their house. someone like that who is very visible While it’s safe to say she has a lot going In time for World Refugee Day on and a very high-profile member of the on, Simmons didn’t sound the least bit community who has worked with so many rattled in an interview Wednesday night. June 22, Simmons and her family will in various communities and who gives In fact, aside from speaking animatedly back to the communities. It’s a lot of work about her children and mention of her travel to Greece to help migrant families to deal with that, to defend yourself or to 21-pound weight loss, the designer wasn’t clear your name. But you have to do that, interested in talking up herself, never in The Unmentionables’ facility. right until you can’t go on any more.” D aniel Berberi by P hotograph april 6, 2018 11

In Focus: Business Insights

Marketing growth throughout 2017. Thriving at 3 Technology percent gains in dollar sales year-over-year, sales of private-label products eclipsed Bamboo Rose Treat Yourself: Consumers $125 billion across FMCG brick-and-mortar outlets,” the report said. Opt for Premium Products Across the board, shoppers are self-ed- Adds Two ucated on the variety of products, price ● Nielsen’s latest research reveals consumer mind-set, manufacturers should points and advantages of specific products. To Board, that shoppers are opening consider how to integrate premium prod- Price continues to play an integral role in ucts that feature sustainable ingredients final purchasing decisions, but the preva- their wallets for items that are and eco-friendly textiles. lence of other factors is rising. Including perceived to be high quality, This is not to suggest that store-branded Consumers want more than a straight- despite heftier price tags. products are waning in success. Instead, forward product. According to the report, Retail Industry consumer preferences are increasingly shoppers purchase items that answer By Elizabeth Doupnik diversified, which has resulted in height- a specific demand and also speak to a Veteran ened competition. larger purpose or value. “Consumers are Consumers are increasingly willing “Beyond any individual channel, store- no longer shopping just for categories ● Laura Weil was the former to spend more on premium products. branded products continue to redefine themselves; they’re shopping for products cfo of American Eagle According to Nielsen’s “Total Consumer their importance to retail, and drove that can fulfill their need and also serve a Report,” store brand items continue to purpose,” said the report. Outfitters. Bob Solomon, perform well, while merchandise within For example, consumers are aware founder of Software the premium price tier is outpacing low- of protecting against ultraviolet rays by Platform Consulting, also cost alternatives. wearing sunscreen during seasons other “For store brands, discount offerings than summer. “Sales of sunscreen as a cat- joined the board. represent over 60 percent of revenue; egory declined by 2 percent in 2017 com- By Arthur Zaczkiewicz however, the most value-oriented products pared with 2016. Functionally, sunscreen have struggled to keep pace compared can serve a truly useful purpose, and as Software solution provider Bamboo to double-digit dollar growth of pre- an ingredient, it becomes a value-added Rose named Laura Weil and Bob Solo- mium products,” the report said. “Across feature to other products,” the report mon to its board. branded product sales, premium tiers are Shoppers are said. “When added to hand and body Weil previously served as chief finan- sustaining more than one-third of dollar self-educated on lotion, for example, the product fulfills cial officer of American Eagle Outfitters volume and are driving the most growth.” price points and both the consumer need for a moisturizer Inc. as well as Macy’s Credit Corpora- And while the concept of self-care advantages of and also provides protection from ultravi- tion. Weil also held the chief operating continues to permeate the overarching specific products. olet (UV) light.” officer position at Ann Taylor and New York & Co., and was the chief executive officer of Ashley Stewart. Bamboo Rose said in a statement that Weil is known Sustainability General Motors Company and Raytheon. companies from all industries can make a “for driving profitability, building The EPA introduced Energy Star in 1992 as difference in energy conservation, carbon high-performance teams and her exper- HanesBrands a “voluntary, market-based partnership to emissions reduction and environmental tise in finance and analytics.” reduce greenhouse gas emissions through sustainability.” Currently, Weil is the founder and Earns EPA increased efficiency.” Its annual Energy HanesBrands also recently released managing partner of Village Lane Advi- Star Partner of the Year award honors busi- the company’s 2017 environmental sory, and she also serves on the boards ness and organizations that have “made performance report, which highlights its of Christopher & Banks and Carnival Energy Star outstanding contributions to protect the achievements in water use, carbon dioxide Corporation as well as Daniel’s Jewel- environment through best practices and emissions, energy use, renewable energy ers. “Weil’s expertise with large estab- Environmental organization-wide energy savings,” accord- use and landfill diversion. The company lished retail brands and her experience ing to the firm. said it is “on track” to meet its 2020 goals in financial transactions, including Excellence Its achievements in sustainability to reduce carbon emissions by 40 percent IPOs, will be an asset to building Bam- include lowering its year-over-year energy (28 percent in 2017); energy use by 40 boo Rose’s supplier financing offerings Award use per pound of production by 6 per- percent (28 percent in 2017), and water use and other growth initiatives,” Bamboo cent, resulting in savings of more than by 50 percent (30 percent in 2017). Rose noted. ● The company has won its $4 million, and its reduction of “energy So far, HanesBrands has yielded strong Weil said based on her retail expe- ninth consecutive Energy Star intensity” by almost 21 percent, which year-over-year results from its efforts in rience, she has seen “firsthand how delivered a total cost avoidance of over 2017, most notably the reduction of carbon difficult it is for traditionally minded Partner of the Year Award $200 million since 2007 from its ongoing dioxide emissions by 15 percent; energy stores to compete in an increasingly from the U.S. Environmental efforts, according to the firm. use by 6 percent; and water use by 7 per- digital, omnichannel world” and noted Protection Agency. HanesBrands has also implemented a cent, while also increasing its use of renew- how Bamboo Rose can play a role as a number of environmental stewardship able energy by 7 percent, the company solution provider. By Tracey Greenstein initiatives; embarked on partnerships with reported. HanesBrands said it pledged to Solomon is founder of Software various universities to educate next gener- “secure at least 40 percent of its energy Platform Consulting Inc., which offers HanesBrands, an American basic apparel ation business leaders about sustainability; from renewable sources (33 percent in consulting services to business-to-busi- manufacturer, said that it has won its ninth and achieves high employee engagement 2017) and achieve zero waste by diverting ness software-as-a-service start-ups as consecutive U.S. Environmental Protection in its “energy management culture.” For company-owned supply chain waste from well as growth companies. Previously, Agency’s Energy Star Partner of the Year example, through initiatives such as Hanes- landfills (84 percent in 2017).” Solomon worked in various roles at Award for “sustained excellence in energy Brands’ recent “treasure hunt” held at the Michael E. Faircloth, group president, software companies “in the supply conservation, carbon emissions reduction company’s Dos Rios fabric manufacturing global supply chain, information technol- chain space; most notably, he was and environmental sustainability.” plant in the Dominican Republic, the firm ogy and e-commerce for HanesBrands. responsible for the monetization of the The company will attend the Energy Star generated nearly 125 employee-led energy “These across-the-board improvements Ariba Inc. network, which is now a divi- banquet in Washington, D.C. on April 20 reduction ideas for power, steam, com- indicate our strong commitment to create sion of SAP,” Bamboo Rose said in the to accept the award and liaise with other pressed air and water use, the company a more efficient and energy-conscious statement adding that he also worked brands that have earned Energy Star recog- said. Collectively, the potential for savings organization for both the areas where we for Silliker Laboratories Group Inc. nition, including Allergan, The Boeing totaled almost $1 million. do business and the larger worldwide com- “Solomon is universally viewed as Company, Colgate-Palmolive Company, Javier Chacon, the chief global manufac- munity. We have taken great strides toward one of the world’s foremost experts turing officer for HanesBrands, said that our 2020 goals, and we intend to continue on B2B marketplaces for suppliers and Looks from HanesBrands’ “HanesBrands is incredibly honored to earn pushing to fulfill our promise to create a corporate buyers,” the company said Maidenform Brands. our ninth consecutive Energy Star Partner of more environmentally friendly company.” and noted that he serves on the boards the Year award and will accept it on behalf Headquartered in Winston-Salem, N.C., of Eved LLC, LeaseAccelerator and anes by J. PHILLIP / AP RE X/Shutterstock J. by H anes / RE X/Shutterstock; ane/ EPA of our approximately 70,000 worldwide HanesBrands owns the majority of its supply XSB Inc. employees who are committed to energy chain operations and manufacturing facilities. Bamboo Rose ceo Sue Welch said management and environmental responsibil- The company markets T-shirts, bras, panties, the two new board members “bring a ity. Thanks to our employees’ steadfast com- shapewear, underwear, socks, hosiery and wealth of experience and expertise to mitment, Hanes is the only apparel company activewear under apparel brands such as our board that will enhance our offer- to be honored for sustained excellence by Hanes, Champion, Maidenform, DIM, Play- ings to customers across the retail the EPA Energy Star program in its 26-year tex, L’eggs, Wonderbra, Alternative and Gear spectrum, from hardlines to apparel

Shopping photograph by Justin L Justin by Shopping photograph history and continues to demonstrate that for Sports, among others. to grocery.”

DENIM IN DEPTH

The Leading Themes, Trends and Brands in Fashion’s Favorite Sector

ISSUE 04/17 CLOSE 04/11 / MATERIALS 04/13

An Advertising Opportunity

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT STEPHANIE SIEGEL, VP, SALES & MARKETING AT 646 356 4712 OR [email protected] april 6, 2018 13

Ryan Korban Listings” fame. “It was kind of difficult at the onset. But people who knew, who were kind of following what Ryan was doing, kept urging,” Gomes says. Flash forward two years and that all seems like ancient history as Korban, dressed in his signature black top and jeans, proudly shows off his duo of handmade statuary marble sofas and French limestone slab coffee table in the no-expenses-spared newly opened, 2,000-square-foot sales gallery. It’s being used to show potential buyers what the real thing, which is just starting to emerge from the ground around the block, will look like when completed in 2019. The finished product will rise 12 stories and house 61 one- to five-bedroom residences, with prices starting at almost $1.8 million for a one bedroom and $6.3 million for a three bedroom. As well as the lobby, which the sales gallery mirrors, all of the building’s apart- ments’ finishings and amenities — including a 57-foot swimming pool, a state-of-the-art exercise room and stretching studio — will be the handiwork of Korban, who at the same time is also working on creating his own furniture line. Given complete control of 40 Bleecker’s interiors by the developer, he drew much of his inspiration from the building’s location, which looks out from its corner units onto Lafayette Street — what he views as the dirt gateway between downtown and uptown as it turns into prime Upper East Side address Park Avenue. “I think that there’s a buyer who’s in the The Evolution of Ryan Korban neighborhood that’s maybe looking for something really cool and still elegant. I also ● The AD100 interior designer think there may be someone from uptown talks to WWD about his first who wants to live a kind of more downtown condominium project. lifestyle, but doesn’t want to compromise on a certain level of lifestyle.” By Kathryn Hopkins With all this in mind, he knew his work One thing is for certain: Ryan Korban has needed to speak to a new generation of been the “in thing” in interior design among downtown buyers, who are looking for New York’s fashion set for some time. luxury and elegance against a modern back- Over a decade ago at 22 and fresh out drop. The answer? Masculine contrasts of college (Parsons, obviously), he opened with feminine, traditional with modern and designed TriBeCa accessories store and soft with brutalist, he says, adding Edon Manor in the style of an English that bridging the gap between uptown and country house with a former classmate. downtown styles has become somewhat of Ever since then calls from stylish clients his specialty. have kept coming. “I’ll have a brand like Fivestory come to As well as a herd of models and their me to do a store uptown because they want pricey abodes, other projects have me to do something that’s classic but infuse included Kanye West’s home, multibrand something edgy and cool to bring uptown,” boutique Fivestory’s Upper East Side he tells WWD. “Then I’ll have a brand like town house, Joseph Altuzarra’s sleek Balenciaga, who’s really old and established, showroom and Aquazzura’s flagship store have me come downtown because they on Madison Avenue. know I’ll understand how to elevate and so, Inside 40 Bleecker’s But his most loyal client to date has to be sales gallery. that really became the premise of it.” Alexander Wang. The two met when they While this has all been going on, Korban were both at college and not only did Kor- has not forgotten his fashion roots. In fact, ban furnish Wang’s TriBeCa loft with zebra he brought the two worlds together recently rugs and furry chairs, his services were also when his longtime friend, designer Bran- called upon for the designer’s flagship store don Maxwell, shot his spring campaign, in SoHo, as well as Balenciaga’s Mercer featuring British model Jourdan Dunn and Street digs when Wang was still at its helm. her eight-year-old son Riley, at 40 Bleeck- “When I started I turned to the fashion er’s sales gallery. world because the design world wasn’t “When I built it I went to Brandon and ready for someone so young. The budgets I said, ‘Your collections are beautiful. I are so high and so you need a certain level have a beautiful space,’” he says. “He’s just of trust,” the AD100 designer says. “In another young creative person who said, the fashion world, you have young people ‘I love this space’ and got it. It wasn’t this starting T-shirt lines or whatever so there’s preconceived thing of, this is real estate or less pressure in terms of what the capital is this is this or this is that.” for these projects to happen.” As for which world is going to be his But a few years ago, the Philadelphia main focus from now on, Korban diplo- native decided he’d done enough to make matically says he wants to achieve a “good his mark on the fashion world and was ready balance” and that for him retail is “still to sink his teeth into a much bigger project. such a fascinating world” to which he’ll be Combined with that, he felt like retail forever grateful. executives were plowing more of their to focus more in the real estate world,” sector and he was put through his paces by “I really owe it to the fashion companies budgets into digital strategies than bricks- Korban says. several well-known developers before he like Balenciaga, like Alexander or like those and-mortar, so it felt like a good time to There was just one issue with that plan: finally secured his dream gig – 40 Bleecker, a companies who trusted me and gave me make the jump to real estate and try to get He was virtually unknown by those in that luxury condominium in Manhattan’s NoHo that experience to then have the design involved in a condominium. field and unlike the fashion world, New being built by Broad Street Development. world really say, he’s young but look at “I had come off doing a lot of retail and York real estate developers were not lining That wasn’t an easy sell at first either, these brands that he’s worked with,” Kor- I was doing a ton of stuff with Balenciaga up around the block to hire him. according to Douglas Elliman’s John ban says. “It was really the fashion world’s at the time and that was sort of coming to They were skeptical about his age — he’s Gomes, who is handling the building’s sales kind of openness to young talent that was

hotographs by Joshua Scott Joshua by P hotographs a closing chapter. I really felt like I wanted now 34 — and lack of experience in the alongside Fredrik Eklund of “Million Dollar really what started my career.” 14 april 6, 2018

WWD’s weekly roundup of the goings on in the property world. Real Estate Dirt By Kathryn Hopkins Celebrity Movers

1. George Zimmer 1 3. Serge Azria A wealthy individual clearly Fashion mogul Serge Azria liked the way George Zim- is once again trying to mer’s sprawling Hawaii hide- offload his penthouse at a away looked — I guarantee it. celebrity-filled Manhattan The Men’s Wearhouse condominium. founder and former chief The creative force behind executive officer has finally Joie, Equipment and Current/ sold his Big Island ocean- Elliott paid $14.3 million for the front estate, known as three-bedroom, 3,471-square- Nani Paniau, for $18 million, foot duplex in February 2017 although securing a sale and was clearly hoping to was no easy feat for the make a tidy profit when seasoned retailer. he tried to flip it just a few Indeed, Zimmer has been months later for $17.3 mil- trying to offload the lush lion. When that didn’t work, compound since 2015 the price was cut to $15 when it became surplus to million, before the apartment requirements after he spent was taken off the market. $20 million on musician Neil Now, Azria is trying again Young’s nearby house. as his never-lived-in invest- The price for the eight- ment apartment is back for acre estate was originally sale at the slightly lower set at $35 million, but proved price of $14.75 million and a to be too high and it has change of listing brokers to been on and off the market Corcoran’s Patricia Lock- ever since, last asking $24.5 George Zimmer’s ridge, Paul Kolbusz and million before it entered former Hawaii house. Melissa Sargeantson. contract. 2 Tyra Banks 3 The struggle to sell the As well as an impressive is selling this posh penthouse — which discount, the mystery L.A. home. has its own private elevator buyer has got themselves entrance to both floors and some pretty nice new digs, a rooftop terrace complete boasting 1,000 feet of ocean with an outdoor kitchen — frontage to make it one of comes despite the con- the largest privately owned dominium being filled with oceanfront properties on the notable residents. Kohala Coast. Meg Ryan, Jake Gyllenhaal In addition to its enviable and Harry Styles have all location, the estate is home been revealed as buyers at to an opulent 10,000-square- the building, each paying in foot, eight-bedroom Serge Azria’s the region of $9 million for plantation-style house with TriBeCa their new homes, while other unobstructed ocean and penthouse. famous residents include sunset views of Maui and Justin Timberlake and Jessica the Kohala Coast, as well as 2. Tyra Banks move, the “America’s Next 1,800-square-foot abode, patio with mountain views and Biel, Blake Lively and Ryan a media room, a gym and a Tyra Banks is at it again. Top Model” creator and host “tastefully” remodeling it to a two-car garage. Reynolds, as well as Jennifer billiards room with wet bar. Just weeks after she bought has put a two-bedroom town give it a New York loft feel The mother of one began Lawrence (the latter is renting And like any self-respect- a new Pacific Palisades house on the market for just with open rooms and soaring her Pacific Palisades spend- out her apartment). ing Hawaii compound, it also mansion, the supermodel under $1.5 million, after paying ceilings, per broker babble. ing spree back in 2014 when The building’s paparaz- comes and an oceanfront is trying to flip another of $1.35 million for it in 2017. Other features include a she purchased a $3.2 million zi-proof underground motor swimming pool complete with her homes in the same Los Despite only owning it for a plush master suite with an turnkey property, later adding court has reportedly been a spa and waterfall, and an Angeles celebrity enclave. short time, she has made oversize walk-in closet and a a $7.3 million ocean view big selling factor for famous abundance of coconut trees. In her latest real estate quite a lot of changes to the balcony, a wine cellar, a private mansion to her collection. buyers.

Glen Senk’s Greenwich the stat House of the Week Village town house.

It’s not often you come from apartments after paying The results of the renova- across a Manhattan home $8.3 million for it in 2012. tion include a formal dining that boasts a kitchen paved The four-bedroom, room covered in murals by with stones imported from 4,930-square-foot house has artists from the New York the streets of Bologna, an Art just been put on the market Studio School, resembling Deco bar modeled on Lon- for $12.8 million, down from $17 Gloria Vanderbilt Whitney’s

don’s famed Claridge’s Hotel million when it was first listed in nearby sculpture studio flame- Corcoran zria by and a formal dining room that 2016. The duo is selling, as they adorned ceiling and fireplace.

pays tribute to Gloria Vander- now spend much of their time Artisans were also brought ealty; A bilt Whitney. at the Palm Beach, Fla. home. in to create the wave-like

The home in question is a It took two years to return mouldings in the dining room 25% Greenwich Village town the five-story Anglo-Italianate and for the plasterwork in the house whose stylish owners — town house, built in 1853, to its stairwell, which was com- the aforementioned Bologna burning hearth, a music room The amount Manhattan Former Urban Outfitters chief original grandeur and clearly pletely removed and restored stones, which are heated — with a dramatic floor-to-ceiling sales of condos and executive officer Glen Senk no expense was spared, using in a process that took a year. obviously — while a wall of win- English wood-burning fire- co-ops fell in the last year, and his husband, one time historic elements sourced The kitchen, meanwhile, has dows opens on to a terraced place and a fully stocked Art marking the biggest Anthopologie buyer-at-large from England, Italy and the marble countertops that were landscaped garden. Deco bar complete with mir- drop since 2009. Keith Johnson — transformed property’s surrounding sourced from the Philadelphia Elsewhere, there’s a library rored, gilded walls fashioned Source: Douglas Elliman

back into a single family home neighborhood. Independence Hall, as well as with an enormous wood after Claridge’s in London. Real Estate/ Miller Samuel R Mauna Kea by Zimmer photograph THE NEW STORE EXPERIENCE JUNE 27 LONDON

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EVENT SPONSORS 16 april 6, 2018

Yardbird Southern Chloë Sevigny Joins Montblanc Table & Bar in Los Angeles. For ‘Le Petit Prince’ Fete The dinner party was held in celebration of the 75th anniversary of Antoine de Saint-Ex- upéry’s novella and the brand’s new limited-edition collection in honor of it. By Alexa Tietjen photographs By Aurora Rose

"I don’t know what the word is when you’re addicted to pens or writing instruments," said Chloë Sevigny. Wearing a white Simone Rocha dress with Balenciaga heels she bought at Barneys New York that day, Sevigny stood in the One World Trade Center Observatory, where Montblanc held a dinner celebrating the 75th anniversary of "Le Petit Yardbird Brings Prince" and the brand's new collection in honor of it. "I’m really feeling the vibes," Sevigny said of her outfit. "I feel Southern like a little prince-ess, prince." Timed to start just after sunset, the Montblanc fete drew Hugh Jackman, Rita Ora, Flavor to L.A. Milla Jovovich, Diego Boneta, John Kunkel’s award-winning model Lucky Blue Smith and his sister Pyper. The setup featured restaurant opens its fourth outpost in cloud-like decorations, a swing and an illustrator drawing Milla the Beverly Center. By Marcy Medina foxes on notebooks. During the Jovovich dinner, Jackman and Charlotte and Chloë Hugh Jackman and With its newfound status as a light-bathed bar, which serves Casiraghi read an excerpt from Sevigny Charlotte Casiraghi foodie city, Los Angeles is em- more than 100 types of bourbon Antoine de Saint-Exupéry's bracing all manner of calorie-rich and whiskey, incidentally the Rita Ora famous novella. cuisine, including pasta-heavy basis of the city's craft-cocktail- something out to me, and Lucky "I love penmanship and I love Italian fare, artisanal butcher du-jour craze. I’d be like, 'oh dang Blue Smith receiving personalized notes and cool. They took time, shops and Southern-style fried Kunkel, who hails from Geor- thank you notes — it's something that’s really cool.'" chicken. The newest entry into gia, says family recipes still form that my mother instilled in me Diego Boneta, who plays the latter category is Yardbird the core of the menu, but he's when I was a young child," con- famed Mexican singer Luis Southern Table & Bar, the James aware that no matter how much tinued Sevigny. "She worked at a Miguel in a new Telemundo Beard-nominated restaurant Angelenos embrace gourmet stationery store, so I had endless, television series, echoed the sen- founded in Miami in 2011 by John cuisine, they're Angelenos, after endless forms of stationery and timent. "I’m very old-fashioned Kunkel, that opens its fourth all. "We're doing a seafood menu note cards and whatnot. I studied when it comes to that," he said. location here on Saturday. for the first time, with grilled fish, calligraphy and it’s something "There’s nothing I like more than Yardbird's industrial barn crudos and a raw bar," he said, I grew up with that was really a handwritten note, being able to look has been transplanted into adding "also great salads and important in our family." take your time and write a note to the newly upgraded Beverly seasonal sides." Asked for his thoughts on the someone — with the date. There’s Center, smack in the middle of But he's most excited about value of the written word in the something about the tradition town, where it joins Farmhouse, Yardbird's nod to Old Hollywood in age of technology, Lucky Blue of that." the farm-to-table concept from the form of a new bourbon called shared, "You can send a text to Asked for her favorite Laurent Halasz and Nathan The Duke, cooked up from one someone and say thank you childhood story, Sevigny quickly Peitso, and Michael Mina's Cal of John Wayne's original recipes. for something over e-mail, [but] responded with: "'Thumbelina.' and flowers and foliage. I used to small and living on a lily pad really Mare, in the valet parking bay of "He was the George Clooney of writing something out is much [I'm a ] classic fairytale kind of have a little fort under a forsythia appealed to me." a huge mall. his day," Kunkel said. "When his more special. If someone wrote gal. I was really into the outdoors bush, so the idea of being very Naturally. But what a shopping center family opened up his sealed ar- may lack in charm it makes up chives, they found his bottles and for in traffic and square footage. recipes, and the original distiller The 6,000-square-foot Yardbird was still alive, so they are launch- put on a whole new personal- is divided into cozy nooks and ing it through the U.S. and we're ity when you wear them," said crannies and features a natural the first restaurant to have it." Garrett Leight x Ulla Johnson, who has worn specs since high school and wanted to dip her toe into optical without having to commit to the whole Johnson Eyewear Toasted technical learning curve. Blackberry Bourbon Lemonade The eyewear scion and the contemporary designer threw It was a win-win for Leight, who Yardbird’s signature punch now features is known for tie-ups with cool John Wayne’s own brand of bourbon. a party for their tie-up at Elvis’ old house with Mandy Moore, designers. "We were searching January Jones and Lake Bell in attendance. By Marcy Medina for someone who represented the woman we want wearing our Even a little fog in Beverly gathered friends including gallery presenting one-of-a-kind glasses and Ulla's community Hills didn't dampen the spirit January Jones, Mandy Moore, limited-edition and studio-crafted was exactly that," he said. for cool-kid designers Garrett Lake Bell, Minka Kelly, Jordana works. It was an ideal backdrop The translucent frames were a Leight and Ulla Johnson, who Brewster and Shiri Appleby for the feminine, retro chic optical play on Johnson's spring ready to to celebrate their GLCO x Ulla and sun frames, which also made wear collection theme. Mandy Moore Johnson eyewear collaboration their debut online and in GLCO "We did this whole invisible and Minka Kelly at Elvis' old estate. and Ulla Johnson stores that day. protection transparent thing as Now called Casa Perfect, the "There's not great choices a reaction to everything that was King's old abode is a residential for women in optical overall, and going on in the country and part gallery concept by The Future the thing about glasses that's of this need articulate that you're Perfect, a contemporary design so cool is that you kind of get to clear," she said. While the fashion crowd, in- January Jones, cluding Brad Goreski, Kristie Stre- Garrett Leight icher, Ashley Streicher, Cristina and Ulla Johnson. Ehrlich, Clare Vivier, Erica Cloud, .com

Jennifer Meyer, Katie Bofshever, A George Kotsiopoulos, Sara Escudero, Heather Taylor, Olivia

Lopez, Rocky Barnes, Samantha atrick/BF Wennerstrom, Joanna Williams, Tracey Cunningham sipped Mi- 1.5 oz Duke bourbon lagro cocktails and champagne 1 oz blackberry puree Shake all ingredients to- from oversized coupes, Leight's (or about 4 blackberries gether. Strain into a mason friend Lia Ices performed several muddled) jar filled with ice and top songs from her upcoming album 1 oz lemon juice with soda water. Garnish at a poolside piano. .5 oz simple syrup with a lemon wheel on top. Said Leight, "It's the most 1 dash of angostura bitters gorgeous view in the world and Soda water it's foggy out. But hey, we're at arc P M arc by eight party photographs

Elvis' house." L april 6, 2018 17

Fashion Scoops Saddle Up Dior is staging its cruise 2019 show closer to home than the last edition, which took place in the Santa Monica Moun- tains. Scheduled for May 25, the event will take place at the Grandes Écuries of the Domaine de Chantilly, near Paris. A symbol of French prestige and art de vivre, the historic stables — which are the largest in Europe — were constructed in the Kendall 18th century for the seventh Prince Jenner in the de Condé, Louis-Henri de Bourbon. Adidas Arkyn The city of Chantilly has campaign. long-standing ties with Dior, from the founding couturier’s first creations to those of his succes- that is a destination for both locals nounced by a noisy crowd outside was discovered by Adidas on sors, Yves Saint Laurent and Marc Laura Kim and and tourists.” — JESSICA IREDALE the store that had gathered for a Instagram, reconstructed vintage Bohan. Various designs for the Fernando Garcia glimpse of the model and social Adidas tracksuits while studying house over the years have carried media star. fashion in Amsterdam, a project or evoked its name and prestige, trian theme. — KATYA FOREMAN children’s wear. Fall bridal will be Many Hats “I know how to say bonjour,” that has landed her an official starting with Christian Dior’s available by appointment and the To launch its new shoe, called she said. “That’s pretty much it,” collaboration with the sportswear second collection, for fall 1947, pre-fall and fall collections will be Arkyn, Adidas staged a discus- she added, referring to her French brand. While her design career is which featured an evening dress Boston on site, available for pre-order. sion centered on women and the language skills. taking off, the Dutch designer said baptized at Chantilly. “With long-standing wholesale different hats they wear, the latest She joined Daniëlle Cathari, a she might want to design furniture While Dior journeyed to the Bound business in Back Bay and Chest- example of how sneaker brands 23-year-old Dutch designer who one day, or maybe arrange flowers. sweeping Upper Las Virgenes Oscar de la Renta has opened nut Hill, it makes tremendous are muscling into female territory. is working with Adidas Originals, The #TLKS event started out Canyon Open Space Preserve in a pop-up shop in Boston. The sense for us to open our own shop Kendall Jenner showed up at launching the second drop next with French pop singer Camélia Calabasas, Calif., for the staging brand’s first freestanding store in on Newbury Street,” said Alex the end of the conversation, which week on the small stage. Jordana of Algerian descent and of its Cruise 2018 show — marking the city is located at 24 Newbury Bolen, chief executive officer of took place in a back room of the “I’m super excited for you,” Jen- singer-actress Joséphine de la the first big destination event for Street and will be open Thursday Oscar de la Renta. “We are excited Adidas flagship in the Marais ner said, addressing Cathari who Baume, who were questioned by artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri to June 20. The space is 1,600 to continue to tell the Oscar de la district of Paris, with a small had just outlined her swift career journalist Alice Pfeiffer about their — the setting of the house’s next square feet and includes ready- Renta story with this new pop-up gathering of a mostly French and rise to the audience. career experiences, creativity and display promises to be more about to-wear, handbags, shoes, jewelry store on one of the most presti- largely female audience. Cathari, who learned how the #MeToo movement. time travel. And possibly an eques- from resort and spring as well as gious retail blocks in the country Jenner’s arrival was an- to sew from YouTube clips and — MIMOSA SPENCER Memo Pad

acy, you get the information and Photographic then move on. I am not saying it’s good or bad. I prefer Italian food Memories to Chinese food but that doesn’t The latest exhibition dedicated make the latter bad.” to works by Albert Watson helps Asked to comment on the sex- emphasize how a strong relation- ual harassment claims that have ship between a fashion brand recently been made against some and a talented photographer can of his peers by models, he said he develop into a superior artistic was always too “obsessed by the production. “Albert Watson, Fash- work,” which scarcely left any time ion, Portraits and Landscapes,” for interaction with the subjects running Saturday to June 17, of his photos. Watson said his MO displays around 100 images has always been very straight- from the Blumarine archives at forward and that there have the medieval Palazzo Pio here, a Nadja Auermann always been only three issues photographed by Albert one-hour drive from Bologna, and that demanded phone calls to the Watson in Arizona for home to the label created and agencies ahead of time to avoid Blumarine’s spring 1992 designed by Anna Molinari. problems and streamline the work: ad campaign. Watson helped define Bluma- nudity, lingerie or fur shoots. “For rine’s romantic and feminine me, it was never tricky. I would ask identity through 12 advertising communicate the clothing but also Blumarine, which celebrated in advance, so it was up to the campaigns in the Eighties and the woman, so that it’s a photo and its 40th anniversary last year, agencies [to do their work and talk Nineties for the brand. The strik- not a fashion picture.” has also worked with Tim Walker, to the models].” As for the reputa- ing photos of models ranging Blumarine allowed Watson the Mark Seliger, Helmut Newton, tion that has been dogging some from Carré Otis and Naomi creative freedom that is key to Juergen Teller, Craig McDean A photo by Albert Watson of Carré Otis in Venice photographers, he said: “I heard Campbell to Cindy Crawford, his work, he said, but the photog- and Pamela Hanson. Molinari for the Blumarine fall/winter 1992/’93 campaign. stories, but that’s what they were Helena Christensen and Nadja rapher was always mindful of the lamented how big-name photog- for me, stories.” Auermann, who were juxtaposed goal of the photos, which “would raphers today “are less flexible of an old, beat-up car, and they pletely restructuring.” He said Watson was scheduled to against views of Scotland, make no sense if you don’t see and won’t work with companies gave me the freedom to choose there was one photo in particular leave for Miami the following day London, Naples or New Mexico, the clothes. All photography is that are not huge brands.” Beau- to shoot anywhere in the planet.” that had always bothered him for a shoot, but was asked by vividly stand out on the walls of interested in communication — a tiful photos, she claimed, are still This helped make Blumarine so much, with one strand of hair the Italian clients to stay mum the frescoed and vaulted castle. war photograph must show the a way to communicate a mes- a global company, he said. All of falling on the face of the model, about the details. He said he is “I realize now but I didn’t back war; if you are photographing in sage, even if less on magazines the black-and-white prints were that he had to remove it. “always interested in whatever then, that in the end I was more Paris, there has to be some feel- today, and more on social media printed by Watson in the dark With more than 100 Vogue the next job is. It doesn’t matter a photographer of fashion as ing of Paris, some flavor, although and online. “It’s changed, but only room because “I love printing,” he covers, and around 40 for Rolling — it can be photographing paper opposed to a fashion photogra- you don’t necessarily have to in part as people still want to see said. “There was no Photoshop Stone from the mid Seventies, cups, the sensibility is always the pher. I was doing a photo shoot show the Eiffel Tower or the Arc beautiful photography.” and no retouching, these are Watson has photographed the same. I begin to analyze the cup, that contained fashion,” said de Triomphe.” Watson said he never had any raw images. It was very different likes of Mick Jagger, Andy Warhol, and see what I can do to make it Watson during a preview of the Molinari emphasized the time- restrictions from Molinari and her from what happens today — after Alfred Hitchcock, Steve Jobs, more interesting.” exhibition on Thursday. “I was less quality of the photos and Wat- daughter Rossella Tarabini, who you take the picture, there is an Nicole Kidman and Uma Thurman To illustrate the point, he quickly always interested in the second, son’s skill in playing with shadows is no longer active in the compa- additional layer of flexibility and wielding a sword for the famous yet carefully showed how he third or fourth layer, in lights and and lights in a cinematic way. “He ny, compared with “99 percent power.” However, Watson does poster of Quentin Tarantino’s “Kill transformed a straightforward shadows, clothes and a woman loves nature, he perfectly and ex- of clients. [Molinari and Tarabini] not wave digital technology Bill.” He clearly wonders about the photo of a white cup taken with his in an environment, a piece of Las actly combined his love for nature, acted as wind at your back to away. “A model may come to the subjects that are hits on social phone into a black-and-white, more Vegas, London or New Mexico the subject he was photographing, move forward, and in fashion shoot with a cold sore on her lip, media now, which he described artistic image. or Naples. I would try to never the clothes and the colors, making you don’t normally get this kind and I think it’s fine to take that as “a phenomenon,” including Kim The exhibition is curated by forget to show a detail, maybe two the images modern,” she mused. of freedom. I could use an old away — it’s temporary, a week Kardashian, who is “famous for Luca Panaro, conceived and buttons, the texture, so that it was “These are artistic photos but they rusted car, and they would be later, that sore may not be there, being famous. I heard her say so produced by the city of Carpi. not just a beauty shot. I want to perfectly reflect the brand.” understanding the significance but this is different from com- herself. Today, it’s about immedi- — Luisa Zargani