Top DesignerThe AccessoriesInside: Pg. 10 GUESS PROFITS LEAP/3 SCARLETT UNVEILS LINE/3 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • November 2, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Romper Room Onesies aren’t just for babies anymore. For spring, juniors and denim designers are big on rompers that are short, fl irty and have a schoolgirl From left, a printed spirit. For more, see pages 6 and 7. cotton romper and cotton and polyester vest from Heatherette by Rich & Rains, and shoes from Irregular Choice for Heatherette. Rubber Doll’s cotton romper, Iconix Is on the Hunt Michael Stars’ cotton tank, Ben-Amun’s To Acquire More Brands necklace and Miss Sixty’s shoes. As Net Rises 54 Percent By Vicki M. Young

OM; STYLED BY DAVID YASSKY DAVID OM; STYLED BY NEW YORK — After swallowing Mossimo and Ocean Pacific, Neil Cole and his team at the Iconix Brand Group are still hungry for acquisitions. The company plans additional licensing deals for the nine brands under the Iconix umbrella. But its appetite for more remains and the firm will need to boost its portfolio to help propel earnings per share toward the lofty growth goal of 15 to 20 percent. “Looking beyond 2007, [our goal is to grow] earnings per share at least 15 to 20 percent year-over-year, and we are committed to achieving this goal,’’ Cole, See Iconix, Page 14 PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODELS: ANNA/VNY AND NINA/FORD; HAIR BY KATY YUNG/JUMP; MAKEUP BY ANTHEA KING/ARTISTSFORTIMOTHYPRIANO.C YUNG/JUMP; MAKEUP BY KATY ERICKSEN; MODELS: ANNA/VNY AND NINA/FORD; HAIR BY KYLE PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION ™ What’s more playful for spring than a snappy little romper that’s perfect 6 for lounging around the house or going out on the town. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL After swallowing Mossimo and Ocean Pacifi c, Neil Cole and his team at 1 the Iconix Brand Group Inc. are still hungry for more acquisitions. BASIC INSTINCT Rising sales and revenues across all business segments spurred Guess Fashion Innovators Trust Their Inner Style Voices 3 Inc. to triple-digit earnings gains for the third quarter and nine months. Louis Vuitton Malletier and other brands won a permanent injunction and For many women, style is something that that the Fashion Innovator spent more on clothing 3 judgment against several Chinatown businesses and defendants. they are born with. For Paige Adams- Geller, style each month and shopped more often; but she BEAT: The stars rolled out Monday night to celebrate with Mick Jagger’s is in her jeans, as it were. The denim fit model spent less money and time on average on each trip 8 squeeze, L’Wren Scott, on the recent launch of her high-end label. turned founder of Paige Premium Denim says her than her counterpart in the general population. fashion savvy definitely came naturally. “When I Spending a total of $126.66 in the 3.47 times a DISH: It took Kate Eccles-Ogle two years to develop Ruby’s superskinny style, and its success is fueling expansion of product and distribution. was in high school, people would month that she shopped for 9 tease me about my disposable clothing, the typical Innovator wardrobe, since I rarely wore the spent $36.50 per trip; the EYE same outfit twice. I used to mix average female respondent spent When Mireille Guiliano handed in 400 pages for her fi rst book, “French and match, borrow from my $82.59 over the 2.15 times she 4 Women Don’t Get Fat,” her editor at Knopf was a bit taken aback. parents’ closets, try and reinvent shopped in a typical month, Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 everything I had, and I was thereby spending a slightly definitely considered one of the higher $38.41 per shopping To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. best dressed,” she recalls. “I use trip. The female Innovator spent [email protected], using the individual’s name. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- that same sense today in building a total of 124.15 minutes RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 192, NO. 93. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one my own line of clean jeans and shopping for clothes in the last additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and three knits.” month, averaging 35.78 on additional issues in February, April, and September by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: Cheryl Finnegan, a longtime each jaunt; the average female S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David consultant to Levi Strauss and respondent spent a lesser 105.69 Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice Presi- now the founder of Virgins, total minutes, but averaged a dent_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Angels and Saints, a line of much higher 49.16 minutes Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. accessories, also admits to a sixth per trip. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable “Fashion Innovators are consumers Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS sense about fashion. “I have always Bastos, the researcher, offers CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, who have an instinct for style, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR been able to pick up on the an opinion. “One explanation DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four like to shop for apparel, and are undercurrents in fashion and to may be that the Innovator shops weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. more likely to pay full price at the Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other evolve with them to predict and often for clothing and relies on U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. beginning of the season to ensure First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, interpret a trend,” she says, but her instincts, so she is likely to and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions quickly adds that does not make that they are among the first just buy one garment on an and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To to secure the latest styles.” subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make her a slave to trends. “If I think average trip, knowing she will be our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would — Melissa Bastos, interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise that my outfit looks like back. The average female us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. Cotton Incorporated WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- something other women will be respondent is more likely to pick SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- wearing, I’ll change. I am dressing up a few garments, particularly ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, to stand out.” when on sale, since she will not be in stores as OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED These denim consultants turned entrepreneurs often, thus explaining the near same amount would clearly be considered Fashion Innovators spent on a typical shopping trip. As for average by the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™, shopping time, the Innovator is highly practiced explains Melissa Bastos, Manager, Market and familiar with her favorite retail territory; she In Brief Research in Supply Chain Planning at shops efficiently.” ● BERNARD CHAUS NET RISES: Bernard Chaus Inc., de- Cotton Incorporated. “Fashion When it comes to the retail signer of women’s career apparel and casual sportswear, said Innovators are consumers who landscape, both groups shopped One of First to Try New Styles Wednesday that first-quarter net income jumped as the com- have an instinct for style, like to a variety of sources for their pany profited from the launch of the women’s Kenneth Cole shop for apparel and are more Fashion clothing, although there were Reaction line. For the three months ended Sept. 30, net in- likely to pay full price at the Total Innovators preferences among the groups. come increased to $1.2 million, or 3 cents a diluted share. This beginning of the season to ensure Agree 27% 83% Innovators were more likely to compares with a net income of $96,000, or fl at on a per-share shop specialty stores and basis, from the year-ago period. There was a 4.7 percent sales that they are among the first to Disagree 72% 14% gain for the three months to $39.5 million from $37.7 million. secure the latest styles.” department stores and less likely Income from operations for the period rose to $1.6 million from According to the Monitor, two to shop mass merchants and $355,000 in the previous year. “We look forward to building on out of three Fashion Innovators named clothing chain stores than average female respondents. the initial results of our women’s Kenneth Cole Reaction line, as their preferred item of choice when they shop, Common ground for these two groups is a launched during spring 2006, in addition to pursuing opportu- compared with one in two of total female penchant for denim. According to the Monitor, an nities across our Chaus, Cynthia Steffe and private label busi- respondents making the same claim. When asked overwhelming 87% of Fashion Innovators and ness,” Josephine Chaus, chairwoman and chief executive offi cer, if they are one of the first to try new styles, 83% of 79% of average female respondents like or love said in a statement. Bernard Chaus signed a licensing agree- ment with Kenneth Cole Productions to manufacture and sell Fashion Innovators said they were, compared to denim. Not surprisingly, Innovators own a larger a women’s sportswear line under the Kenneth Cole Reaction 27% of total female respondents. When asked wardrobe of it, claiming an average 25.64 denim label. The company also designs, sources and markets women’s when they bought the latest styles, two out of three garments, compared to a still respectable 17.84 apparel under the Josephine Chaus, Chaus and Cynthia Steffe female Fashion Innovators stated at the beginning garments owned by women in the general trademarks, as well as under some private labels. of the season; only three in ten female respondents population. Innovators may need more garments, in the general population claimed to do so. since they wear denim jeans 4.7 days a week ● AMAZON SALES: Amazon.com said jewelry and watch sales “I love that type of woman,” enthuses Deborah compared to the 4.18 days a week for the average in the third quarter rose more than 100 percent from last year. Jewelry sales, generated by purchases of engagement rings and Kirkland, Sales Manager for XCVI, a clothing female respondent. gemstones, rose 108 percent, while watch sales grew 122 percent. line, about the Fashion Innovator. “Not only does With their basic instinct for style, Fashion The store offers 200 brands and 6,000 styles at prices ranging she keep me in business, she keeps me motivated Innovators are demonstrating a strong future for from $30 to $75,000, according to the company. For the third quar- to be better and to personally continue evolving.” denim and women of every fashion proclivity ter, top-selling watches included the women’s Movado Amarosa Evolution in style appears to come instinctively would be wise to call upon their “jean-eology” and and the women’s Bulova Diamond Bezel Chronograph watches. to Fashion Innovators. According to the Monitor, go long on denim to ensure their style savvy. a considerable 62% of Innovators said their This story is one in a series of articles based on find- clothing purchases were made on impulse; 36% ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ said their purchases were planned. 44% of average tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these Corrections female respondents let their impulses rule; a larger pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it Zac Posen president Barry Miguel was once president of Marc 53% said their purchases were planned. relates to the American consumer and her attitudes by Marc Jacobs Menswear. Due to misinformation from Zac While many statistics about Fashion Innovators and behavior regarding clothing, Posen, his title was incorrect in a story on page 2, Tuesday. appear obvious, a careful parsing of the data from appearance, fashion, fiber selection and ● ● ● the Monitor reveals a few surprises. It is no surprise many other timely, relevant subjects. John Galantic has been named president and chief operating offi cer of Chanel Inc. The headline was incorrect in a story on page 2, Wednesday. WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2006 3 WWD.COM Solid Revenue Buoys Warnaco Guess Profits Soar in 3rd Qtr. By Vicki M. Young By Ross Tucker going to give us a really good opportunity,” he said, adding that women’s denim would NEW YORK — The Warnaco Group Inc. said Wednesday that third- ising sales and revenues across all busi- present the biggest opportunity because of quarter income more than doubled compared with a year ago. Rness segments — with the biggest gains the greater range of product offerings avail- For the three months ended Sept. 30, income was $14.6 million, or in Europe — spurred Guess Inc. to triple- able. “The trend is cleaning up. The skinny 31 cents a diluted share, up from $6.9 million, or 15 cents, in the same digit earnings gains for the third quarter and has been a big part of the business, but as far year-ago quarter. Revenues rose by 38.5 percent to $452 million from first nine months of the year. as our business is concerned, we’ve not seen $326.3 million. For the three months ended Sept. 30, a slowdown in the boot-leg jean for women, For the nine months, income fell by 25.2 percent to $31.9 million, the Los Angeles-based company reported even though the skinny has done very well.” or 68 cents a diluted share, from $42.6 million, or 92 cents a year ago. Wednesday that earnings vaulted 133.8 per- Guess’ European business posted the largest Revenues rose by 19.7 percent to $1.36 billion from $1.13 billion. cent to $48.4 million, or $1.05 a share, far gains during the quarter, with revenues rising Joe Gromek, president and chief executive offi cer, opened the com- outpacing Wall Street analysts’ consensus es- 73.1 percent to $111.5 million from $64.4 mil- pany conference call to Wall Street analysts by highlighting Warnaco’s timate of 72 cents a share. lion. Management has set a acquisition of the Calvin Klein Jeans business in Europe and Asia. Guess reported earnings of target of reaching $500 mil- “The new business is outperforming our expectations,” he said. $20.7 million, or 46 cents, in lion in revenues in Europe “Signifi cant opportunities exist to expand faster across all geographies the same period a year ago. in the next four years. through our direct-to-consumer franchise and wholesale channels and “All our business for- For the nine months, to leverage these new brands with our powerful Calvin Klein under- mats across all regions of earnings gained 134.7 per- wear business. We believe shareholder returns will be enhanced by the world exceeded expec- cent to $77.5 million, or concentrating our investment capital in our Calvin Klein business.” tations,” Paul Marciano, $1.69 a share, compared co-chairman and co-chief with $33 million, or 74 We believe shareholder returns will be executive offi cer, said dur- cents, in the same period a ing a conference call with year ago. Revenues spiked “enhanced by concentrating our investment analysts. 27.2 percent to $838.8 mil- Revenues for the period lion from $659.4 million, capital in our Calvin Klein business. rose 31.3 percent to $348.7 with sales rising 27.2 per- million from $265.6 mil- cent to $794.8 million from — Joe Gromek, Warnaco ”Group Inc. lion. Royalties were ahead $624.8 million and royal- 18.3 percent, rising to $16.4 ties increasing 26.8 per- Gromek said that in the past six months the company has been million from $13.9 million. cent to $43.9 million from evaluating its entire portfolio of brands. In addition to its sale of Sales increased 32 $34.6 million. Ocean Pacifi c to Iconix, which acquired the brand for $54 million, percent to $332.3 million, Again, the company’s Paul Marciano Warnaco will discontinue certain brands, including JLo by Jennifer compared with $251.7 mil- European business posted Lopez lingerie. lion, driven by a strong the largest gains, with rev- Elimination of the non-core brands makes “strategic sense” and retail performance in the company’s stores enues jumping 60 percent to $209.5 million enables the company to “focus our attention and resources on busi- across the U.S. and Canada. Guess stores from $131 million. Wholesale revenues rose nesses and brands that offer us stronger growth and earnings poten- generated $178.1 million during the quarter, 18.4 percent to $104.3 million from $88.1 mil- tial,” Gromek said. an increase of 13.9 percent from the $156.3 lion, while retail operations generated reve- He emphasized in an interview that Warnaco will “continue to million in the year-ago period. Marciano nue increases of 18.6 percent to $481 million look at all the brands and will take appropriate action with an eye said Guess opened 10 stores in the U.S. and from $405.7 million. toward maximizing shareholder value. It is not a static activity, but a Canada during the quarter for a total of 330 The company also announced comp-store constant evaluation.” units. Comparable-store sales gained 8.6 sales results for October, with the U.S. and Although the intimate apparel business grew at a double-digit rate percent during the period, marking the 14th Canada posting 11.8 percent gains. For the during the quarter and the Calvin Klein women’s business was up 25 consecutive quarter of rising sales in stores month, total retail sales rose 17.6 percent to percent, management is anticipating the product and pricing strate- open at least a year. $45.5 million. gies for Chaps to help it reach revenue and profi t objectives in the Maurice Marciano, co-chairman and co- The fi rm has a multibrand portfolio that “not too distant future,” executives said on the call. ceo, said he sees ample opportunity for the includes Guess, Guess by Marciano, Marciano Swimwear, slow in the third quarter, is expected to perform well company’s denim business to expand in the Guess Accessories and a new retail format in the 2007 season. Gromek added that the cruise line, which began U.S. and Canada, as well. that will roll out in North America next year shipping in October, is a higher-margin quarter for the swimwear “The trend right now in denim is, it’s called G by Guess, which is targeted to com- business because of the paucity of markdowns. going more into fashion denim...so that’s pete with retailers such as Hollister.

Looks from the First Look at Scarlett’s Reebok Line debut Scarlett [Hearts] Rbk line. carlett Johansson has been inspired by the Eighties. S The actress was just six years old when the decade ended, but images from “Flashdance” and “Let’s Get Physical” left a lasting impression. And now, infused with that sensibility as Johansson scoured vintage stores and Reebok archives, the Scarlett [Hearts] Rbk collection is being revealed three months after being announced and four months before it ships. The life- style collaboration between the actress and Reebok was unveiled to the press Wednesday. Retailers get to see it today. Both the spring and the summer deliveries include fi ve key pieces: a racer tank, a sweatshirt, a track jacket, a legging and a baseball-style T-shirt for spring and a tennis-inspired skort for summer. The apparel ranges from $40 to $100 at retail, and the modernized version of Reebok’s original Aztec shoe — in eight different color versions, all with metallic and suede components — sell for $100. The line will expand into other accessories for fall. In a take on Reebok’s “I Am What I Am” celebrity slogan, the collection will be marketed through a Web-based “I Am More” campaign, which may include print ads but will not have a TV commercial component. Johansson will be fea- tured in the campaign, and Reebok said it will reveal a new side of the actress. The company declined to provide volume projections, but said it intends to keep distribution exclusive to better department and specialty stores. — Whitney Beckett PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY

in stores in Chinatown notifying consumers that the sale and purchase of counterfeits at a location are Luxury Brands Win Infringement Judgment prohibited and punishable by law. The defendants will be subject to monitoring by the luxury goods company ouis Vuitton Malletier and other luxury brands won Andy Lin, JTF 277 Canal Street and its owner Fotini and its investigators to ensure that the signs stay up Lan order for permanent injunction and judgment Theoharidou, Yue Chan Ye, Nhu Thi Phuong Dean, and are complied with. In addition, the defendants on consent against a number of Chinatown businesses Wang Guo Kang, Xinghua Huang, Jin Long Lin and were ordered to pay damages of $2,500 each to Louis and affiliated defendants in Manhattan federal court. Jian Liang Ge. Vuitton. The initial action was fi led by Louis Vuitton, but All the parties were permanently restrained from Louis Vuitton’s initial lawsuit was fi led in April of Marc Jacobs Trademarks LLC, Givenchy S.A., Celine selling, manufacturing and marketing products that this year for trademark and copyright infringement S.A., Kenzo S.A. and Loewe S.A. were added as plain- infringe on the Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Givenchy, against a longer list of defendants. Some of the initial tiffs to the permanent injunction, awarded last week. Celine, Loewe or Kenzo brands. allegations were decided in early October and the rest Defendants named in the judgment included The defendants were also ordered to hang up the are still pending. Nenex International, New Age Trading and its owner signs that Louis Vuitton Malletier has been installing — Liza Casabona 4 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2006 WWD.COM

nyone who believes actresses are vain A ought to take a look at Jill Clayburgh’s two stunning performances this fall — one on stage WALL FLOWER in “The Clean House,” and the other on screen in rin Davie is quiet, with an unassuming Mrs.Clean “Running With Scissors.” Emanner and a voice that’s downy soft. So Jill Clayburgh In the former, the 62-year-old actress plays she’s not an obvious choice to play young Little Virginia, an eccentric, unhappily married woman Edie Beale in the current Broadway production obsessed with cleanliness; in the latter, she plays of “Grey Gardens.” Because if Little Edie is Agnes, an eccentric, unhappily married woman anything, she isn’t quiet. She is a delightfully who lives in squalor. In both, she evokes sympathy ambitious firecracker who harbors dreams of and fondness for downtrodden, unattractive stardom but ends up becoming captive to her personalities — and unfl inchingly conceals her aging mother and their dilapidated East Hampton, own allure. N.Y., estate. “If only I had hair and makeup,” she laughs, Still, Davie insists she understands Little Edie’s sitting in a dressing room of the Mitzi E. Newhouse lot in life. “I tend to get people who others think Theater (where “The Clean House” opened are off,” the actress says sweetly, sitting in her Tuesday night) and reminiscing about her coiffure shoebox of a dressing room at the Walter Kerr for “Running With Scissors.” “We just cut it and put Theatre, where she makes her Broadway debut a little grease in and that was it.” That was almost this evening. “Edie just wanted to enjoy life and more elaborate than her beauty regimen for this beautiful things. She was doing the best she could play, in which she does her own minimal makeup in the circumstances she was in.” and dons dowdy clothes. But none of that deterred Of course, this Nashville native knows little of Clayburgh. Instead, she’s grateful to director Ryan living on Long Island’s East End and wandering Murphy for Agnes, just as she is thankful for the through the house with sweaters on her head, four roles that have kept her on the New York stage turban-style. And as a “horribly shy” child and the almost continuously for the past year. youngest of seven, she was reluctant to take to the “This is the most wonderful time as far stage. “I was a late bloomer in all kinds of ways,” as acting,” she says — despite her two Oscar Davie explains. “And I didn’t have a lot of friends.” nominations, in 1979 and 1980. “I look at women my age who don’t have something to do and I think, Erin Davie ‘Wow, I am so lucky to be engaged in the questions of a performance.’ It’s just a wonderful thing when other people are thinking about golf.” Clayburgh, who is married to “Hurlyburly” playwright David Rabe, risked oblivion when she opted out of Hollywood to raise their two children, Michael and Lily, in Connecticut. Much has been made of her return to the spotlight, though it wasn’t carefully planned. “I really was not ready to work again,” she admits of “The Clean House,” after her star turns in “Barefoot in the Park,” “A Busy World Is Hushed” and “A Naked Girl on the Appian Way.” “But I just couldn’t turn this down,” she says of the play, written by Sarah Ruhl, who received a prestigious MacArthur Fellowship this year. “Film is harsh. I love the freedom of theater,” continues Clayburgh. “You are telling the whole story every night, and you have parameters, but within those parameters you are inventing things. And what can you say? It’s live.” She can pass the wisdom of her experience on to her daughter, also an actress and one of a few confi dantes she trusts to “not bulls---. Everyone is always saying ‘Oh, you were fabulous!’ I feel like I can go to her for the real truth,” she says. But even after a year of widespread acclaim, she’s still uneasy about not having more concrete plans than taking a well-deserved break after “The Clean House” closes. “That’s one of the things in our business,” Clayburgh explains. “The minute that you are out of work, you worry. I mean, I like my life, I don’t have a problem not working and I have not worked for many years. But you really feel that you will never work again.” — Elisa Lipsky-Karasz Franco Files WHEN MIREILLE GUILIANO HANDED IN 400 PAGES FOR HER first book, “French Women Don’t Get Fat,” her editor at Knopf was a bit taken aback. “They had just published Bill Clinton’s book, and they said to me, ‘You’re not exactly Bill Clinton. Nobody knows you,’ ” she says with a So to entertain herself she sang songs from laugh. “I was a bit upset. I thought they were going to throw all those “The Little Mermaid” around the house. It wasn’t pages, recipes and menus into the garbage. But they told me to just until her mom dragged her to a local performance keep them.” of “Cats” that she caught the acting bug. “I was Good thing she wasn’t impetuous. Now that her debut effort has like, please, how stupid will this be? But I walked sold nearly two million copies and been published in 37 languages, out of there thinking, ‘If I could do anything in my many of the castaway pages have found their way into her second life, it would be that.’” The epiphany didn’t seem tome, “French Women for All Seasons: A Year of Secrets, Recipes to do much to cure her shyness, though, because & Pleasure,” which hits book stores this week. The follow-up was her mom still had to force her to try out for school inevitable, since so many readers appealed to her for more tips about plays. “I was careful about getting my hopes up staying trim and vibrant while maintaining some semblance of a that I could actually [succeed as an actor],” she social life. Some even went to the trouble of fi ring off “gotcha” letters, explains. “But I still steadily went on that path.” describing the overweight and dumpy women they saw in France. Davie traveled from Nashville to New York, with a Wherever she went on her fi rst book tour, Guiliano says, “There was pit stop at The Boston Conservatory. She toured with this myth about French women — how we can’t do anything wrong, “Swing!” and “The Music of Andrew Lloyd Webber,” how we dress well and know everything. I told them, ‘Not quite.’ ” but her big break continued to elude her. Finally, she In her new book, Guiliano spells out how to do a better job of Mireille was called in to audition for an understudy role in enjoying life with simple indulgences that vary with the seasons. She Guiliano “Grey Gardens.” “I had a callback,” she recalls, “and puts her less-is-more philosophy to the test with eating, entertaining, I missed it. Communication problems.” In the end it dressing, exercise and everything else. “Do we really need 257 pairs of shoes, 50 types of cereal turned out to be serendipitous, because the casting to choose from or a bar with 25 drinks when entertaining?” she said. “I’m trying to help people director allowed her to come in for the role of Little identify their own DNA or be their own brand, because there are so many people who want to be Edie. “I think they kind of felt sorry for me,” she someone else. I don’t want them to be me.” says, looking down. Those who read in between the lines will fi nd traces of Guiliano’s professional persona as Whether or not that was the case, her performance president and chief executive offi cer of Clicquot Inc. “When in doubt, have Champagne,” she offers blew everyone away. “I thought it was a ruse,” in the chapter aptly named “Wine Is Food.” Needless to say, that was the easiest one for her to write. says her co-star Christine Ebersole. “You couldn’t Relying on her own conversational voice and occasional quotes from the likes of Socrates not pay attention. She has sort of an air about her and Henry David Thoreau, Guiliano encourages carpe diem without sounding like a self-help that’s very patrician. It just feels like she was born commando. Often drawing on her childhood in pastoral France, she offers some all-too-often to the manor.” overlooked advice, like walking or cycling for transportation, rooting out the seasonal bounty in Of course she wasn’t, but Davie admits there green markets, sprucing up “a good cashmere cardigan with a cunning strand of beads” and are strains of “Grey Gardens” that hark back to entertaining simply for the sake of company, not showmanship. There are also recipes and menus Tennessee. “The way my mom and my grandmother for winter, spring, summer and fall that rely on a few key ingredients to minimize the prep time. talk to each other sometimes, they’re not quite as “You have to learn to make time and take time for yourself. When you take care of yourself, unkind as the Edies can be, but defi nitely yelling you are a better wife, mother, worker and friend,” she said. “The world is stressful, but we from room to room,” she smiles. “And the singing make our own stress. All these things about work and daily life are things we can change.” together. My grandmother used to be a big singer.” — Rosemary Feitelberg — Emily Holt CLAYBURGH PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA; DAVIE BY STEPHEN SULLIVAN SARDELLA; BY DAVIE DONATO PHOTO BY CLAYBURGH odce7Tl_W_12id 1 Jordache07_Tbld_WWD_11.2.indd

JORDACHE.COM For info, please call Barbara Varnhagen or Lissa Cole at212.944.1330 Cole VarnhagenFor Lissa or info, callBarbara please 03/642:2PM 4:24:32 10/31/06 6 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMEBER 2, 2006

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Deréon’s c h ea dband; B e n - A m un earri Date ngs. Girls just want to have fun — and what’s more playful than a snappy little romper? It’s the perfect item for spring, whether while lounging around or kicking up your heels. 8 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2006 WWD.COM The Beat L’ W r e n’ s N e s t NEW YORK — The stars aligned Monday night at a little table at Chelsea hot spot Bette where former president Bill Clinton, Mick Jagger and Bette Midler huddled and giggled and chatted. And at similarly cozy tables around them, so did Christy Turlington, Ellen Barkin, Lynn Wyatt and a host of other fashion, film and music folk. They were all on hand to celebrate their good pal L’Wren Scott and the recent launch of her high-end label. Scott, of course, is the noted model-turned-celeb stylist and Jagger’s ladylove. Earlier in the evening during a mini runway presen- tation of Scott’s wares, the Rolling Stone sat proudly, his video camera fi rmly set on ‘record,’ while the likes of Martin Scorsese, Kelly Lynch and Steve Bing cooed and clapped enthusiastically as models vamped around the room. Clinton missed the clothes but made it just in time to hear Barkin’s impromptu dinner speech. “The best-kept secret in fashion is the design talent of L’Wren Scott,” she said. And after all the champagne cocktails were emptied, Tom Ford and Suzy Menkes swooped in very fashionably late. But even with such superwatt stars congregating in one intimate spot, Scott was still very much the woman of the hour — every last millimeter of her 6-foot, 3-inch frame. Scott, who introduced her line to editors and buyers in Paris during last month’s fashion week, said, “I’m not interested in making clothes for 12-year-olds. These are for women.” And how. Start to fi nish, there were some serious body-conscious silhouettes with no room for any dietary deviance. A sultry motif underlaid what she calls the Little Bette Black Dress couture collection including a quintet of uber-fi tted Midler and dresses, a Victorian riding coat, a burnt velvet cape and brocade Scott pants meant for rock-star legs, available now at couturelab. Christy com. Scott lightened up the Gothic edge with Under My Skin, an Turlington in Ron Wood array of sweet, high-necked silk dresses, a frilly blouse under a L’Wren Scott. buttery leather jacket and a paillette-covered siren’s sheath, all in a palette of blush tones. The hosting The idea of the collection began a year ago when Scott couldn’t fi nd an LBD couple, Mick for herself. “It’s not like I wouldn’t have access to a black dress,” she recalled Jagger and of her futile search for the most classic of fashion items. “I thought, ‘I’m just L’Wren Scott. going to make one.’ And then I thought, ‘Oh, I’m just going to do a collection.’” Scott has nixed the traditional notion of seasons, opting instead to name her collections. “The second is Under My Skin because, at that point, I had become slightly obsessive,” she said, explaining how her own dressing habits have found their way into the design process. “When I go shopping, I always want the same T-shirt, but in a different color or weight,” she said. So she added simple tanks in three weights, embroidered or not. Such attention to detail didn’t escape buyers. “The collection is very clear and concise,” said Julie Gilhart, fashion director at Barneys New York. “It’s about well-constructed, sexy clothes that have style rather than a trendiness. It is in essence L’Wren’s view on style.” In addition to Barneys, the Under My Skin group will be carried at Paris-based Maria Luisa, London’s Dover Street Market, L.A.’s Maxfi elds and Hong Kong’s Joyce, as well as Net-a-porter.com and couturelab.com. Retail prices are $400 for a tank, around $800 for pants, and up to $5,000 for more detailed dresses and coats. All stores will carry her small shoe collection, designed by Christian Louboutin. And Couturelab.com will offer exclusive pieces by special order only. Scott is aware that these are hefty prices out of the starting gate. “I suppose if I sold en masse, I would have to drastically reduce my prices,” she said. “But there’s something nice about knowing that you’re not going to see everybody in the dress you’re wearing.” Christy Turlington agrees. “It’s smart of her to do a smallish collection and distribution, be- cause she’ll be able to give it the care that makes it fun for her,” said Turlington, who until recently, had no idea her friend was thinking of designing a collection. But Turlington wasn’t alone. Scott, who is famously private when it comes to anything personal, kept her collection a secret from everyone. “I’ve always been about just doing the work and then if people like it, that’s great,” she said. “Self-promotion has never been my style.” Scott maintained that even Jagger — a subject she dodges fi rmly yet artfully — was unaware of her newest creative project. “They didn’t see it that much,” she said, referring to her nearest and dearest in the plural to avoid any chance of singling anyone out. “They heard rumblings, they’d see swatches of fabrics, heard me on the phone talking about how the Lynn Wyatt color wasn’t right or I needed a softer hand, and they’d be like, ‘Is that all for the couch?’ ” congratulates — Nandini D’Souza the designer.

Martin Scorsese Looks from and Steve Bing Scott’s Under My Skin lineup.

Ellen Barkin wearing L’Wren Scott. PHOTOS BY KRISTEN SOMODY PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2006 9 WWD.COM

shop with white vinyl fl oors, mirrored silver vinyl on the stairs and an Acne Jeans sign out front. Anders Denim Dish A Change in Scenery Lagerstedt, U.K. sales representative for Acne, which When demand for the Swedish denim brand Acne has produced limited-edition jeans with gold stitching Jeans began to swell at London’s Browns Focus bou- exclusively for Browns Focus to mark the occasion, said William tique, both companies were compelled to do some- the venture also allowed them to assess what London Sledd thing dramatic. consumers’ reaction would be to an Acne store. But instead of simply expanding Acne’s collection “We’re still a small brand, but it’s a great way to at the store, they decided to give London customers test the market here,” he said. what they wanted: an Acne store. An Acne spokeswoman added that a London store For 10 days, until Sunday, Acne Jeans has de- would be next on the company’s agenda. A unit in camped to Browns Focus’ South Molton Street store, Gothenburg, Sweden, opens in a month and one in complete with shop fi ttings, merchandise and employ- Paris’ Marais district is also planned. ees. In turn, Browns Focus has taken up residence at The swap was intended to promote Browns’ re- Acne Studio, the brand’s store in Stockholm. launched online store, brownsfashion.com. Customers “We were having dinner in London when we came at the temporary Browns Focus store can buy straight from the clothing racks or view the Browns Web site, which will stay up in the store for a month after it has reverted back to Acne Studio. “We’ve been doing really well here,” said Alexandra Stylianidis, head of buying at Browns YouTube’s Fashion Find Here: The Browns Focus store remade as Focus, from the William Sledd began posting video blogs on an Acne Jeans store. Left: The temporary store in Sweden. YouTube three months ago, sharing his thoughts Browns Focus store in Stockholm. “We have a very dif- and feelings on everyday subjects from his dog to ferent way of selling. cell phones. up with the idea of swapping shops,” said Yasmin We merchandise in stories, which customers here Last month, Sledd introduced the fi rst in what Sewell, director of buying at Browns, the well-known seem to like.” has become a series of videos titled “Ask a Gay multibrand designer boutique. Browns Focus, located Sewell and Lagerstedt declined to give sales pro- Man,” the majority of which have focused on fash- across the street from its big sister, stocks younger, jections for their respective stores during the swap. ion topics. While his viewership has been on the edgier and emerging brands such as 3.1 Philip Lim, Meanwhile, Stylianidis said the switch had given rise, Sledd’s “Ask a Gay Man: Denim Edition” put Roksanda Illincic and Richard Nicoll. Browns Focus a wider perspective on its store. him in the YouTube limelight. “We realized the two brands really connect to each “We’re looking upon the experience very serious- “I honestly didn’t expect that many people other, alongside the fact that Acne is seriously grow- ly and it’s opened up our minds to taking the brand to like it,” said Sledd, 23, who lives and works in ing here. It’s one of our strongest brands,” added to another country,” Stylianidis said. “It’s shown us Paducah, Ky. “I fi gured it would get a lot of views, Sewell at last week’s launch of the temporary store. that although we’re a multibrand store, we can oper- but I didn’t think they would fall in love with the Browns Focus, with its dark interiors designed ate as a brand.” ‘Ask a Gay Man’ setup.” by David Adjaye, was transformed overnight into a — Nina Jones YouTubers seem to have fallen for Sledd and the denim episode in particular. The almost-fi ve-min- ute video premiered Oct. 17 and, as of Wednesday, had been viewed more than 702,000 times. There have been 28 video responses from other viewers Ruby made its and some 4,000 comments offered, the bulk of which debut with a express gratitude for his advice and praise for the superskinny humor and the quality of his work. Of course, there style available are also viewers who are anything but fans. in two washes. In the video, Sledd, along with his co-host for the episode, a friend named Stephanie, dispense advice on denim that is both practical and farci- cal, from skinny jeans to why men shouldn’t wear women’s jeans. The pair plead with male viewers to never wear carpenter jeans “unless you’re a carpenter,” with Sledd suggesting that if carrying a hammer is a necessity, it should be carried in a Growing a Precious Gem “man bag.” YouTube asked Sledd to create a four- to fi ve- Kate Eccles-Ogle took two years and created more minute video that was free from music copyright than 200 samples in developing the fit of a superskin- issues that could be featured on the site’s home ny style for her line, Ruby. page. Denim was a subject Sledd felt would have This was the only style offered when Ruby pre- the widest appeal. miered in February, and its success has laid the “We tried to pick a subject that would cover an groundwork for the expansion of Ruby’s product of- extremely large range of people,” he said. “We were ferings and retail distribution. trying to appeal to the biggest market we could.” Eccles-Ogle, designer and owner of Ruby, isn’t a The exposure of another YouTube celebrity, newcomer to the denim indus- LonelyGirl, as an actress, has aroused suspicion try. Six years ago, she started among the site’s users. Sledd’s recommendations a private label manufactur- for jeans and his wearing of a shirt from Gap’s new ing business dubbed Kiss Red campaign had some viewers accusing him of Kate with her sister Victoria. being paid by the company, which is true in a sense. The pair set up shop outside He has worked at a Gap store for six years, but he London and built a business assured viewers in a follow-up video that the com- that has helped design and a straight leg, a zippered skinny and a pany was not fi nancing his YouTube endeavors. produce denim for Ghost, boyfriend style. Sledd said people seek him out in the store to Warehouse, House of Fraser Details look to celebrate the joy of ask if the retailer carries carpenter jeans. His man- and Jaeger, among others. life, a trait that Eccles-Ogle said de- agers have seen his videos and expressed their ap- More recently, Barneys New fi ned her grandmother. A tribute on proval, but Sledd has yet to hear from anybody at York tapped Kiss Kate to pro- the inside of the pockets reads, “A gem Gap’s corporate level. duce its private label denim. in a beautiful world.” There is also an “There’s no telling what will happen when [they] Now, denim accounts for about inspirational message hidden in the fi nd out,” he said. 80 percent of the business. jeans that will change each season. The denim edition has raised the bar for Sledd, “We come from the techni- All styles will be available in three and instead of hundreds of subscribers to his pre- cal side,” Eccles-Ogle said. “We have a great knowl- washes and wholesale for $69 to $90. vious videos he now has thousands. Sledd used to edge of denim.” Lord & Taylor is taking on more Ruby for fall, take an hour to make a video; he now spends three Launching a proprietary line was only a matter of expanding the label into four of its stores in the to fi ve hours. Sledd’s YouTube channel is ranked as time. Northeast. Eccles-Ogle is looking to grow on the East the 11th most popular in the history of the Web site, “Our own brand was always going to come to light,” Coast and has her sights set on landing Ruby’s fi rst with more than 14,000 subscribers. He has also been Eccles-Ogle said. “It was a case of waiting until there West Coast accounts. She’s even considering moving approached by companies to endorse their prod- were enough funds to launch a brand.” to the U.S. in order to do so. Adjustments have been ucts, and even a few talent agents, but he’s content Named after Eccles-Ogle’s late grandmother, Ruby made for the American consumer, however. with sticking with what he’s got for now. launched in the U.S. at Lord & Taylor’s Fifth Avenue “The New York girl is skinnier,” Eccles-Ogle said. “I’ve never had a desire to do TV or anything fl agship in February. The line bowed at London’s “We’ve had to clean up the jeans a bit more, but apart with fi lm,” Sledd said. “This has never been a Harvey Nichols at the same time and generated from that we haven’t changed much because the brand dream of mine. Right now, we’re just having fun.” strong sales in both markets. For fall, the superskinny is very polished.” — Ross Tucker will return, along with three additional fi ts, including — R.T. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2006 WWD.COM

In the business of fashion, accessories are simply the icing on the clothing that comes down the runway. This year’s spring collections showcased plenty of TheWWDList different accessories. While Gwen Stefani debuted her new handbag collection over at L.A.M.B., Marc Jacobs and Oscar de la Renta sent out items such as hats and sunglasses, respectively. For its Global Luxury Accessories Survey, ACNielsen asked more than 23,000 online consumers around the world which designer accessories (not including jewelry) they are currently purchasing. Below, a ranking of female respondents’ answers and a look at the designers Worldly Possessions who are taking these categories to new levels. The top nine designer accessories female consumers around — Cecily Hall, with contributions from Sophia Chabbott the globe are purchasing.

SHOES Percentage of female respondents who are currently buying the designer accessory: 46 Women just can’t live without their Jimmy Choos and their Manolos these days. Thanks in part to fi lms such as “In Her Shoes” and shows like “Sex and the City,” designer shoes are the favored accessory for almost half the survey’s respondents. Celebrities can also increase a designer’s status just by being photographed in his or her shoes — Kate Moss, Jessica Simpson and Nicole Kidman are just a few celebs who have helped 1 raise awareness of Christian Louboutin’s collection by showing up at red-carpet events donning a pair.

HANDBAGS Percentage: 38 From Marc Jacobs to Fendi, Coach to Michael Kors, designers are rushing to come up with the key bags for the season. Ralph Lauren made a push into the category earlier this year with its line of Ricky bags. Said WWD in September, “Ralph Lauren premiered the luxe Ricky and Voyager bags on the runway in 2005, paving the way for the Polo Ralph Lauren’s push into accessories throughout its brands.” YSL’s Muse bag (left) is also a hit: 2 For the second quarter ending June 30, Jean-François Palus, chief fi nancial offi cer of parent PPR, said the brand’s leather goods sales improved 43 percent on the strong performance of the Muse bag.

SUNGLASSES Percentage: 30 Hermès is a fashion house known for its accessories. And Jean Paul Gaultier made sure to doll up his models with plenty of items on his spring runway, namely sunglasses. WWD reported in July that Marc by Marc Jacobs will soon have its line of sunglasses beginning this month in the U.S., priced from $80 to $120. Former Gucci creative director Tom Ford introduced his own line of sunglasses last spring, produced under a license 3 with Marcolin Eyewear. “Even if it’s only an accessory, it’s a very potent accessory,” Ford told WWD. “It’s like a car. It makes a statement about what design is at any given time. It’s sculptural in that way.”

WALLETS Percentage: 24 Priced from $75 to $195, Nike-owned Cole Haan is defi nitely in the business of wallets. Its leather French Purse, for example, is detailed with shiny gold hardware and contains a hand-pieced fl ap with a magnetic snap closure and logo tassels. And its Village Travel Zip wallet in red (left) has a zip closure, multiple credit card pockets and nylon lining. This is how the Paris-based Goyard’s elegant wallets are described on its Web site: “With its 4 iconic chevrons, the wallet stylishly safeguards identities, especially those of organized travelers.”

BELTS Percentage: 14 The shapeless volume seen in fall and spring runway collections has been feminized and updated with cinched belts as an added accessory. Karl Lagerfeld’s spring 2007 runway had models cinching their Eighties-style dresses with wide belts (left). Miuccia Prada sent out belted blouses paired with briefs on the runway. Dolce & Gabbana’s belts often carry the “DG” brand: Its Leopard-Print Belt has a gold-tone logo plate buckle. 5 And Chloé’s black leather Padlock Pouch belt shows off tonal metal hardware.

STATIONERY (PALM PILOT HOLDERS, ETC.) Percentage: 10 Fashionable paper? Absolutely. Designers Kate Spade (left) and Vera Wang have both gotten in on the act with their own stationery lines, while such venerable companies as Smythson are out to expand their brand beyond writing paper. In Vera Wang’s boxed stationery, she includes stylish custom-designed envelopes that contain lining inspired by her ready-to-wear collection. Other accessories in the category include holders for items 6 such as Palm Pilots, CDs and iPods. IPod holders are being made by high-end companies like Louis Vuitton and Coach. Coach’s Signature case features the Signature jacquard fabric with leather trim, and a 12-inch strap with dog-leash clip is included as well.

BRIEFCASES Percentage: 8 For those professional women who want to look fashionable — yet still be taken seriously — their briefcase options are rapidly growing. Tumi’s Elements collection (left) is a sleek choice, while Cross, a $110 million fi rm, is now accessorizing professional women with modernized tote bags, 7 laptop holders and other products. Dior Homme carries a modern alternative to the briefcase: the Toile Logo Canvas Carryall. The bag is accented with calfskin leather handles and palladium-fi nished hardware.

LUGGAGE * Percentage: 6 ACNielsen’s survey noted that nothing conveys the jet-set image like a matching suite of leather designer luggage. “The Louis Vuitton luggage set is iconic — both in the world of fashion as well as in travel,” said Frank Martell of ACNielsen Europe. “It symbolizes the ultimate in designer 8 travel.” And luggage brand Samsonite has opened a number of Black Label boutiques worldwide, which feature different upscale collections, including its premium Black Label products, its Samsonite Vintage line, X’Lite, which is made from a lightweight material, and Scope by Marc Newsom — a collaboration with the industrial designer.

KEY CHAINS * Percentage: 6 If you can’t afford a bag, how about settling for a designer key chain? Gucci has quite the selection of them, all of which carry some version of the company’s logo and are made with leather, brass and steel. Prada has its own barrage of key fobs, including ones for children. Burberry’s leather- 9 trimmed canvas key chain contains silver-tone hardware and retails at Saks for just $85. Other names dabbling in key chains: Louis Vuitton, Coach (left), Cartier and Bottega Veneta.

SOURCE: ACNIELSEN’S GLOBAL LUXURY ACCESSORIES SURVEY; DESIGNER JEWELRY IS NOT INCLUDED IN THE SURVEY; *INDICATES A TIE

12 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2006 WWD.COM Farn Inks Asprey Deal, Unveils Goutal Skin Care By Matthew W. Evans fl edged entry into the skin care business for Gary Farn, retail sales, according to industry sources, and will be which also handles the Emmanuel Ungaro, Salvatore promoted closely with Barneys. ragrance distributor Gary Farn Ltd., which just intro- Ferragamo, Hervé Léger and Etro fragrance businesses At least two new Splendide Skincare products, a Fduced Annick Goutal’s skin care collection in the U.S., in the U.S. “We were a fragrance distribution company serum and an eye gel, are slated for spring. has inked a deal with Asprey to distribute the British lux- before this,” Farn said in a recent interview. “[Splendide — With contributions from ury brand’s Purple Water eau de cologne line in the U.S. Skincare] leads us into a whole other area. It has a tremen- Brid Costello, London Plans for Asprey’s Purple Water cologne call for the dous impact, it reinforces what we do: specialty brands in fragrance, along with its bath line, to be rolled out this specialty store distribution.” Splendide Skincare is ex- month to Asprey boutiques in New York and Beverly pected to be rolled out to additional U.S. retailers at the Hills, as well as Bergdorf Goodman. Additional spe- conclusion of the Barneys exclusive next fall. CVS and Caremark Merge cialty stores will get the fragrance The inspiration for the treat- in spring 2007. ment line “is the rose,” Farn said, VS Corp. and Caremark Rx Inc. said they entered “Our strategy for the long-term referring to the late Goutal’s fa- Cinto a merger agreement to create the nation’s top success of Asprey hinges on aligning BEAUTY BEAT vorite flower and her namesake “integrated” pharmacy provider. with the right retail partners, with company’s symbol. “She [originally] The new company will be called CVS/Caremark Corp. which the fragrance will prosper and grow,” Alison created a skin care product for her- with headquarters in Woonsocket, R.I. Under the agreement, Farn, president of Gary Farn, said in a statement. self and her friends but didn’t like the which is a merger of equals, the companies said, Caremark “Fragrance is a natural extension of the way it smelled. So she went to Grasse shareholders will receive 1.67 shares of CVS for each share British luxury lifestyle,” said Robert Donofrio, [in France] to fi nd an all-natural oil of Caremark. CVS stockholders will own 54.5 percent of chief executive offi cer of Asprey U.S.A., in the to make the cream smell better. The the combined company, and Caremark shareholders will statement. “Therefore, growth in this category notes of the fragrance intrigued her, so own 45.5 percent. The deal is valued at about $21 billion. will continue to contribute to the evolution of at this point she became a perfumer.” Mac Crawford, current chief executive offi cer, chair- Asprey’s brand image overall.” Goutal’s daughter, Camille, worked man and president of Caremark, will become chairman On the treatment front, Goutal’s with perfumer Isabelle Doyen to for- of CVS/Caremark, and Tom Ryan, chairman, ceo and 12-item Splendide Skincare line mulate the Splendide products. The president of CVS, will become president and ceo of the bowed recently at four Barneys assortment ranges in price in the U.S. new company. New York locations — Madison from $48 for the 1.7-oz. Rosée Splendide The board will be split evenly between Caremark and Avenue in New York, Copley Facial Toner to $145 for the 2-oz. Crème CVS. Place in Boston, NorthPark Mall Splendide Nuit Night Cream. The merger of one of the nation’s leading pharma- in Dallas and Beverly Hills — and Each product employs a proprietary ceutical services companies with the largest pharmacy will be carried exclusively by the ingredient called “active rose serum,” chain is expected to be a powerful cash-fl ow generator, retailer for a year. It was origi- which blends concentrated levels of vi- which will fuel the long-term growth of CVS/Caremark. nally launched in France three tamins A, B-5, E, F and C, which are said Substantial operating synergies of about $400 million years ago, an introduction that to promote cell growth and tissue repair. are expected to be realized through increased purchas- marked a return to skin care for The presence of magnesium and calcium ing scale and operating effi ciencies. Annick Goutal following a nearly is designed to reinforce the lipid barrier Combined projected revenues for CVS and Caremark 30-year absence from the catego- and bring nutrients to cells. for 2006 are expected to be about $75 billion after ad- ry. Bergdorf’s has carried Crème Splendide Skincare packaging fea- justing for intercompany transactions. Splendide Moisturizer since 2004, tures vivid vine and rose graphics, which The companies anticipate the transaction to close in and Crème Splendide Genereuse were inspired by rose embroidery made by six to 12 months. CVS/Caremark will trade on the New Moisturizer since last year. Annick Goutal eye treatment lace producer Broderie Noyon de Calais. The York Stock Exchange under the symbol “CVS.” Splendide Skincare marks a full- and night cream. assortment could garner $1 million in fi rst-year — Jeanine Poggi WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2006 13 WWD.COM

Department of Fashion Design chairman, Derek Lam Catherine gave the program a rousing endorsement as Malandrino he spoke about ways to break out from the MEMO PAD crowd when applying to fashion schools. “[Attending Fashion U] should be on your COSMO CONVENTION: In all the hype about résumé when you apply. The fact that you the Web, the publishing strategy that gets came here is impressive,” he said. Teen lost in the noise is overseas expansion. But Vogue will make Fashion U an annual those who think it’s just a case of planting franchise, but is approaching it with caution. their fl ag in a foreign land could take some “Looking forward you want to balance tips from the editors of the 59 international getting it bigger, but maintain the intimacy editions of Cosmopolitan, many of of it,” said vice president and publisher whom were in New York this week for a Gina Sanders. Next year, the program may conference at the Hearst Tower — not to include more panels on the business side of mention spa treatments and a few parties. fashion, for example marketing and fashion Thinking of publishing in Indonesia? journalism. Sanders is also thinking about Don’t run any sex stories unless it involves a scholarship and sponsorship opportunities to husband and wife, since sex before marriage help attendees beyond the East Coast cover there is forbidden. And Fira Basuki, chief travel costs. One element for next year is editor of the Indonesia edition, said the certain: The November 2007 issue will be magazine produces most of its own fashion slated as the Fashion at Work issue, focusing and beauty content, as opposed to borrowing on fashion careers, as an editorial tie-in to from the U.S., because women in Indonesia the Fashion U program. — Stephanie D. Smith believe white skin without freckles is beautiful, while the fl agship magazine features a lot of the opposite. “We try to get as white as we can,” Basuki said. “Whitening products and sunblock are the biggest sellers here.” The magazine faces its share of opposition from activist groups that want to see women in traditional clothing, but, so far, Basuki has been able to keep the To Our Manufacturers and Suppliers: Statement of Policy Concerning Gifts

We are taking this opportunity to restate our policy concerning gift-giving, not only during the forthcoming holiday season, but at all times of the year. On any occasion, gifts, no matter how well-intentioned by the donor, tend to shake the moral structure of the firmest business foundations by substituting subjective emotions and motives for objective judgment based on service, quality and price. Accordingly, for the mutual protection of our suppliers, our complainers at bay, by softening associates and the Company, we prohibit our associates from cleavage shots and easing up on the miniskirts. accepting gifts, gratuities, payments or favors. Gifts received As for the magazine in India by our associates will be returned to the donor or donated — which published its largest- ever edition in October with to charitable organizations. Our associates are advised that more than 1,000 pages — it features mainly Bollywood stars violation of our policy is considered to be a grievous matter. on its covers and considers Elle to be its main competitor. We call upon you to assist us and our associates by refraining Cosmopolitan reaches 70 million women throughout the from giving or offering such gifts. Your awareness of and world and shows no signs of cooperation with this policy will foster the continuation of fair slowing down, with Denmark, Chile and Georgia added this business practices that favor our close association. year. Besides the U.S., its largest edition is in Russia, Best wishes for a happy holiday season and a prosperous with 1.1 million in circulation. And, Cosmo in Russia holds the New Year. Guinness World Record for the largest magazine circulation in Europe. — Amy Wicks

SCHOOL’S IN SESSION: Teen Vogue’s Fashion U is already Bernard Cammarata Carol Meyrowitz looking toward its sophomore Chairman and Acting CEO President of The TJX Companies, Inc. year. The three-day event drew 500 fashion-forward teens The Marmaxx Group/T.J.Maxx/Marshalls • HG Buying, Inc./HomeGoods — including a dozen boys, a 19- year-old Maryland girl with her Winners Merchants International LP/Winners/HomeSense own public relations fi rm and a Connecticut girl who hobbled to Concord Buying Group Inc./A.J.Wright • T.K.Maxx • Bob’s Stores the panels despite a dislocated knee — from 47 states and four countries. Attendees learned the nuts and bolts of fashion through panels and seminars led by members of the fashion elite, including Simon Doonan; Derek Lam; Michelle Sanders, Juicy Couture vice president and fashion director; Catherine Malandrino, and Teen Vogue editors, including Amy Astley. 770 Cochituate Rd., Framingham, MA 01701 On Saturday, Tim Gunn, Project Runway judge and Parsons 14 WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2006 WWD.COM Iconix Eyeing More Brands Outdoor Association Seeks Continued from page one Wednesday to $16.44. Trade Commission Ruling chairman and chief executive officer, said dur- Cole told analysts that the company expects ing a third-quarter conference call on Wednesday. 2006 full-year earnings per share to be between 70 “Our growth over the last two years is very excit- cents and 73 cents, down from previous guidance By Kristi Ellis innovative performancewear],” ing.…We have only scratched the surface of the of 70 cents to 80 cents, affected partly by the delay and they should be treated dif- potential of our 21st-century business model.” of closing the Mossimo deal. For full-year 2007, the WASHINGTON — The chair- ferently, Boian said. “Step one is “The pipeline of potential acquisitions remains company expects EPS of 87 cents to 92 cents. man of the House Ways & to get the study done and have strong,” Cole said. He noted that the company is As for the Op acquisition, Richard Kestenbaum, Means Committee has asked the demonstrable evidence that looking at several opportunities and expressed a partner at investment banking fi rm Triangle International Trade Commission says if there is no commercially confi dence that the brand management fi rm can Capital, said, “[Ocean Pacifi c] was perhaps the to determine the competitive- viable domestic production” the “continue to grow the portfolio with more iconic fi rst company to pursue the licensing-only model ness of domestic manufacturers products should be excluded consumer brands.” that Iconix has expanded upon producing performance outer- from punitive tariffs or quotas. Cole told WWD that he was Neil Cole and, originally, over 20 years ago, wear pants and jackets, and the The Outdoor Industry pleased with the purchase, an- Op was a brand whose brand man- fabrics used to make them, as Association succeeded last year nounced Tuesday, of Ocean Pacifi c ager conducted no operations. It well as travel goods made of tex- in getting support from several from the Warnaco Group for $54 is very well suited to the Iconix tile materials. lawmakers on Capitol Hill to million. “It’s a great iconic brand model and it broadens the spec- Rep. Bill Thomas (R., Calif.) pressure the administration to with a 30-year heritage,” he said. “It trum of types of brands and busi- made the request at the be- carve out ski and snowboard- will bring more diversity to Iconix nesses that Iconix runs, and so it is hest of the Outdoor Industry ing pants from the China bilat- and is a different lifestyle brand a very good fi t.” Association, a trade group rep- eral quota restraint agreement. than some of our other brands that The role of Dick Baker, Op’s ceo, resenting wholesalers and re- But Boian said companies want are more fashion-oriented.” is unclear. Cole said Baker will tailers of performance outer- quotas removed on more of their Cole said Op, a leading global work with Iconix on the transition wear, including REI, Columbia performance apparel and to ex- action sports lifestyle company, has and both of them will determine Sportswear and Patagonia. They clude the broader category from expansion opportunity, particularly Baker’s future as they evaluate want to exclude their products potential antidumping cases on the sportswear side of the busi- where and how they want to posi- from “punitive trade actions” from Vietnam. ness for young men’s and juniors. tion Op including whether parts of — such as quotas or dumping Thomas, who is retiring at the “In our research, the brand is still the business may be moved to New duties imposed on “unfairly end of the year, has asked the underpenetrated in every area,” York from Los Angeles. priced” imports — that the fed- ITC to submit two separate re- he said. “He stays with us at least eral government might take ports: one covering performance The Op deal came a day before through January or February or against countries where the outerwear pants and jackets and Iconix reported quarterly results. longer,’’ Cole said. “We’re talking fi rms source their products, in- the fabrics used to make them, Net income for the three months about a lot of exciting opportuni- cluding China and Vietnam, said and the other for travel goods ended Sept. 30 rose 54 percent to ties beyond Op.” Alex Boian, government affairs with an outer surface of textile $7.9 million, or 18 cents a diluted With Baker’s experience and associate for the trade group. materials and textiles used to share, from $5.2 million, or 14 cents, background, there is the possibility The association’s objective is make the goods. He asked that in the same quarter a year ago. The that Iconix might open a West Coast to get an ITC study that shows the first report be submitted company beat Wall Street’s consen- offi ce that he would head, a move there is no U.S. production of within nine months and the sec- sus by 2 cents. Licensing and com- that Cole referred to as “Iconix those products and convince the ond within a year. mission income more than doubled West.” Another option is that Iconix Bush administration to exclude He also requested that the to $22.1 million from $9.2 million. and Baker expand the action-sports them from further trade actions investigation provide data for The quarter was the company’s arena by adding brands, with Baker that restrict imports, Boian said. 2005 and 2006 U.S. production fi rst fully taxed quarter as a brand running that operation in Los Quota and dumping duties are levels and shipments. The ITC management fi rm. Angeles, Cole said. intended to protect domestic will conduct the “fact-fi nding” For the nine months, net income increased to Baker is on vacation and was unavailable for producers from a surge of low- inquiry and issue a report on $23.6 million, or 54 cents a diluted share, from comment. price imports. its findings, a spokeswoman $8.5 million, or 26 cents, in the year-ago period. Joe Gromek, president and ceo of Warnaco, “We are saying this is a dif- said. It will not make a policy Licensing and commission revenue was $53.8 mil- said that one reason for selling Op was Warnaco’s ferent class of products, [highly recommendation. lion, up from $17.8 million. changed focus since it bought the brand in 2004. Iconix has completed six deals in the last six “This past year we made a major acquisition in quarters, some when the company was known as Calvin Klein Jeans in Europe and Asia,’’ he said. MOVIN’ ON: Claudia Schiffer has Candie’s Inc. Brands under the Iconix umbrella “The Calvin Klein business positions us in a very joined Roland Mouret and Victoria are: Candie’s, Bongo, Badgley Mischka, Joe Boxer, different way on a global platform, and we really Fashion Scoops and David Beckham in the orbit of Rampage, Mudd, London Fog, Mossimo, and by want to focus our energies in the development of British entertainment impresario the end of the month, Ocean Pacifi c. that international platform.” Simon Fuller. The model has inked a partnership with Fuller, who Eric Beder, of Brean Murray Carret & Co., said David Conn, executive vice president of Iconix, propelled the Spice Girls to fame, dreamed up “Pop Idol,” and nurtured in a research note, “We are raising our target said during the conference call that Candie’s con- the Beckham brand, for the worldwide management and representation price to $21 (from $20) and upping our 2006 and tinues growing at Kohl’s through comps gains and of Schiffer’s name, image and brand rights. The new partnership is a 2007 estimates after Iconix reported solid third- new store expansion. As for Badgley Mischka, joint venture, aimed at developing Schiffer “branded products in fashion quarter 2006 results, closed the acquisition of he noted that the bridge-price dress collection and lifestyle,” according to a statement from Fuller’s company 19 Mossimo and added Ocean Pacifi c to their stable launched this spring had $10 million in product Entertainment. Fuller made waves in September when he formed a joint of iconic brands. We believe the series of events in sales and that last month’s launch in bridal was venture company with Mouret, 19 RM, to develop a string of fashion and the last two days highlights the strength of Iconix’s well received. design projects. business model: 1) ability to drive strong, highly Separately, Iconix plans a $200 million stock The Schiffer-Fuller partnership has Fuller managing all of Schiffer’s predictable revenue and premium margins and offering to help repay the indebtedness in con- affairs in beauty, fashion, lifestyle and TV, and is worldwide. “Simon cash-rich returns; and 2) a solid and aggressive nection with the Mossimo and Op purchases. It is a creative thinker who understands how important fashion is to management team that has the operational knowl- will include a public offering of $150 million of people,” said Schiffer in the statement. Fuller added: “[Claudia’s] global edge and fi nancial strength to quickly complete Iconix common stock and $50 million of Iconix recognition as a fashion icon will provide us with many opportunities accretive transactions with material upside.” common stock sold by shareholders that will in- ahead.” A spokeswoman for Fuller declined further comment. Despite Beder’s bullish assessment of Iconix, clude management as well as previous sellers of Meanwhile, another London-based model — and swimsuit designer investors retreated on the stock after the Ocean brands to Iconix that have received stock as part — is moving on. Elizabeth Hurley has fi nally set the date for her wedding Pacifi c deal. Shares closed down 11.8 percent of their consideration. to Arun Nayar. The couple will wed fi rst on March 3 in England, and later that week (can a girl ever have enough weddings?) in a Hindu ceremony in Udaipur, India. Friends reportedly received a save-the-date from Hurley for March 3 — and for the following seven days. Survey Points to Strong Holiday OPRAH’S BEST BET: After years of teetering around s several specialty retailers negative 7.2 percent and 4 per- impact on holiday spending.” her set on spindly Manolo Aposted mixed same-store cent, respectively. Retailers re- “Consumers have withstood Blahnik, Jimmy Choo and sales Wednesday, a Deloitte & port same-store sales today, and challenges this year from en- Christian Louboutin heels, Touche USA LLP consumer sur- analysts expect solid results. In ergy costs, slow growth in jobs Oprah Winfrey has given vey painted a bright picture for regard to holiday sales, the ex- and softness in the housing Cole Haan’s latest a test the holiday shopping season. pectation is that results will be market, and they continue to be drive. Winfrey tested out The survey also revealed that stronger later on in the season. bullish about the economy and the company’s new Dress consumers feel the softening In the Deloitte & Touche sur- their own fi nancial well-being,” Air footwear collection, of the housing market will not vey, 82 percent of those polled said Pat Conroy, vice chairman which incorporates Nike adversely impact their holiday “say they feel secure about their and national managing prin- Air technology into sky- spending. jobs, and two-thirds (68 percent) cipal of Deloitte’s Consumer high shoes for comfort. An early read of October expect the economy to improve Business practice, in a state- The talk show queen Oprah Winfrey and Gordon Thompson on the comps offered a different out- or stay the same next year, com- ment. “Overall spending is ex- interviewed Cole Haan set of her show. look. Zumiez was a clear win- pared with less than half (48 pected to be up for many key creative director Gordon ner, posting a 15.9 percent gain percent) in 2005.” categories, supporting our fore- Thompson about the technology for the show, which will air today. “Being in comps, while American Eagle The survey also found that, cast of 7 percent growth in sales on Oprah is a great honor for our entire Cole Haan team,” said Jim Seuss, saw an 8 percent increase. But “surprisingly, 92 percent say this holiday season.” chief executive offi cer of Cole Haan, which has signifi cantly increased its Hot Topic and Citi Trends re- a recent change in the market — Jeanine Poggi inventory in preparation for the spot. leased disappointing comps of value of their home will have no and Arthur Zaczkiewicz GEORGE BURNS PHOTO BY COPYRIGHT HARPO PRODUCTIONS, INC./ALL RIGHTS RESERVED; WWD, THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2006 15 NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

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