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Malta Pilgrimage to Malta, Rhodes and Rome September 15 to September 26, 2008

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Malta Pilgrimage to Malta, Rhodes and Rome September 15 to September 26, 2008 Volume 5 Winter 2008/2009 ADDENDUM Malta Pilgrimage to Malta, Rhodes and Rome SEPTEMBER 15 TO SEPTEMBER 26, 2008 An excerpt from the notes from Melinda Meister, one of the pilgrims n Monday, September 15th, thirty pilgrims, organized and led by Msgr. Kevin Wallin, left the United States on a journey through time and through Faith. After a transfer in Rome, the group arrived in Malta in the late afternoon Oon Tuesday, September 16th. Guides Sarah and Narsi met the group at the airport and the journey through a faith filled history began with a tour of the island of Malta. In 1530, for a yearly payment of one Maltese falcon, the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V gave Malta to the Knights of St. John, who were looking for a place to establish their order after being driven out of Rhodes. In 1798 revolutionaries weakened Malta, and Napoleon invaded, staying only long enough to strip the island of its valuables. The Knights left, ceding Malta to the French. The pilgrims walked to the tiny, peaceful Millennium Chapel where Msgr. Kevin and Father Bob celebrated mass, welcoming them to a spiritual as well as physical journey. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17 The pilgrims arrived at St. John’s Co-Cathedral in Valetta, built by the Knights of Malta and consecrated in 1578. The stark exterior of the cathedral designed by Gerolamo Cassar belies its rich interior, a visual expression of the Knights’ substantial wealth. Almost every square inch is decorated; most significant are the frescos of the life of St John, patron saint of the order. Msgr. Kevin and Father Bob celebrated mass in the magnificent Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament, where Msgr. Kevin reminded us of the humility of St. John. Leaving the cathedral, the group went to Casa Rocca Piccola, home of the Marquis de Piro, a Knight of Malta, his wife, the Marchioness Frances and their family. Named after its first owner, Don Pietro La Rocca, admiral of the Order of St. John, the house has been occupied by Maltese families for over 200 years. From there the group followed Narsi through the crowded marketplace around to the Grand Master’s Palace, built in 1575. Today it houses the President’s office and parliament, but it was the Grand Master’s residence for over 200 years. The group entered through the Hall of Knights and climbed to see the tapestry chamber. After lunch, they toured the cathedral with its floor of memorial stones, most notably that of a French knight entitled The Grim Reaper, and the silver gate of the Blessed Sacrament Chapel that the Maltese saved from the French by painting it black. Finally, the group admired the magnificent Beheading of St. John the Baptist painted by Caravaggio in 1608 when he was a Knight of Malta. THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 18 Msgr. Kevin and Father Joe said mass at St. Lawrence in Vittoriosa, where the Knights and Maltese gathered in thanksgiv- ing at the end of the Great Siege in 1565. The church, originally built in 1682, was destroyed in WWII and carefully restored. The pilgrimage moved to the Fort St. Angelo overlooking the Grand Harbor. Until the city of Valetta was constructed, St. Angelo was the seat of the Grand Master. Fra John, Knight of Justice and native Maltese, is patiently and lovingly supervising the restoration of this historic site on which the order has a 99-year lease. The group saw St. Ann’s chapel, the gardens and staterooms and a charming fountain area that remains shaded year round. After lunch, the pilgrims traveled to Mdina, stopping on the way at a Roman domus near the Greek gate to see mosaics and statues. The Cathedral of St. Paul is said to stand on the site of the villa of the Roman Governor Publius whom Paul converted to Christianity. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 19 The pilgrimage moved to Rhodes, traveling through Rome and Athens to get there, arriving after 9:30PM. SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 20 The day began with Mass at Santa Maria Catholic Church in Rhodes and continued with a tour of Rhodes, dating to 408 BC. The Knights of St. John of Jerusalem arrived in Rhodes from Cyprus in 1309. The group saw the Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation. They then drove to the Rhodes acropolis with its Doric temple to Apollo Pythios. Nearby were a temple of Artemis and the excavated stadium. The tour continued through the medieval town, now a World Heritage site, entering through the grand Amboise Gate, constructed in 1512 by Grand Master d’Amboise, to visit the Palace of the Grand Masters, built by the Knights in 1503. The palace was destroyed, along with the Church of St. John, by the 1865 gunpowder explosion, but rebuilt in the 19th century by the Italians. The pilgrims walked down the Street of the Knights, perhaps one of the best-preserved medieval streets in Europe. Along the street are the Langues, or inns of the various nationalities making up the order. (continued on next page) Malta Pilgrimage to Malta, Rhodes and Rome (continued from previous page) SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 21 On Sunday morning, the pilgrimage moved to Lindos, a town dating from the 12th Century BC. The group went to the top of the acropolis, seeing how the Knights of St. John had improved the fortifications, manned until their departure in 1522. A network of their fortresses surrounds the beautiful bay. In the after- noon, the pilgrims rode a bus to Philermos. The chapel of Our Lady of Philermos is located near Lalyssos, the island’s most ancient settlement, dating from 1550 to1400 BC. Remains of a 5th Century basilica, built by the Knights on top of a temple to Athena, exist, as the well as a baptismal pool. When the Knights arrived from Cyprus in 1306, they immediately fortified the site. In a small chapel, possibly connected to the ruined basilica, they found an icon brought by a monk from Jerusalem. According to legend, the icon was painted by St. Luke. Because of success in battles against invaders, the Knights attributed miraculous properties to the icon, which became known as “Our Lady of Philermos.” When they left Rhodes, the Knights took the icon with them to Malta and after Napoleon’s invasion, to Russia. A reproduction hangs in the chapel. The present structure is from the fifteenth century. There is a Greek Orthodox monastery on the site. The group returned to Rhodes for Mass at St. Ann’s. MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 22 The pilgrims moved to Rome, attending mass at Santa Maria sopra Minerva, where Msgr. Kevin shared information about the church. The questioning of Galileo took place here. There are frescos by Filippino Lippi and a statue of Christ by Michaelangelo. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 23 The group went to the Church of St. John and Paul, built, as are most churches on the Caelian hill, in the 4th century on the temple of Claudius and the site of an early Christian church in a private house. Standing in a silent square, the present structure, with its imposing bell tower, is 12th century. It is the titular church of Cardinal Egan. At mass, Msgr. Kevin remembered Padre Pio, whose feast day it was. The group met a guide, Liz, at the Basilica di San Clemente, a church constructed over what was a home built on the rubble of the great fire of Rome. In this church are visible layers of 17th, 12th, 4th and 1st century Rome. The pilgrimage moved to the basilica of Santa Croce. This church, enlarged in the twelfth century and given a baroque façade in the 17th century, is one of the seven major basilicas of Rome and now houses some of Christianity’s most venerated relics: the fragment of the True Cross, the “heading” on the cross, a nail from the cross and the finger of St. Thomas. Entering the chapel one moves up an incline, a rise meant to imitate the steps to Calvary. The next stop was St John Lateran. St. John’s, just inside the city wall, was constructed from 313 to 324. Originally a simple brick basilica with an adjoining palace, it served as the official residency of the Pope for over 1,000 years, starting in 314 with Pope Sylvester. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 24 Msgr. Kevin and Luca guided the group expertly through what would eventually be a crowd of perhaps 20,000 for an audience with the Pope. The audience was well run and most of the group got a good glimpse of Benedict XVI as he drove by in an open car. After a lunch, the group drove by the Castel Sant’ Angelo, former mausoleum of Hadrian, and eventually taken over by Gregory the Great in 590 when a vision of St. Michael the Archangel announced the end of the plague. Arriving on the Via Condotti, the pilgrims walked to the Office of the Grand Magistry, considered “the smallest state in the world.” The group was received by Fra’ Elie di Comminges and Gian Luca Chiavari, Keeper of the Treasure. They toured the new library, viewing some of the library’s treasures: a martyrology, books on genealogy and heraldry, and books on the history of the order. The building itself dates from 1500. Since 1834, the Order has held this palace and the priory on the Aventine extraterritorially. The palace houses the apartments of the Grand Master, an entrance hall, reception rooms and living rooms. The Grand Master has the rank of cardinal and receives heads of state. The group drove to the Aventine Hill, one of Rome’s seven hills and then to the Priory of Malta, or Aventine Palace, passing through two sovereign states, as the group did so: Italy and the Order of Malta, with a view of a third sovereign state, the Vatican City, in the distance.
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