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T H E Ta S T E M a K E . OCTOBER 2015 The Tastemakers: Rose Marie Bravo and Pamela Baxter 3 Just Work It Activewear, Out of the Gym and into the Boardroom 4 The New Gifting Experience NYNOW show at New York’s Javits Center 5 In Memoriam Two doyennes of the A Journey From a South Elaine Gold fashion and beauty Dakota Ranch Arnold Scaasi Virginia Borland industries captured the attention of a sold-out Bravo queried Baxter Tastemakers event pre- about her earliest 6 sented by The Fashion influences and the Upcoming Events Group International experiences that drove on July 15th at the her professional path, 21 Club in New York asking, “From a ranch 7 City. Margaret Hayes, in South Dakota to New Members List President of FGI, intro- Paris, France, and New duced retail and brand York, what influences consultant Rose Marie were most important Bravo, former president along the way?” Baxter, of Saks Fifth Avenue whose father was a THE PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE and vice chairman and former CEO of Burberry, and rancher in Mobridge, South Dakota, recalled that from Pamela Baxter, president and CEO of LVMH Perfumes an early age she knew she had a “passion for fashion.” & Cosmetics and Christian Dior Couture, as two women She said, “I worked on the ranch to earn money for with highly successful career clothes, and at the age of 12, Chair histories. Both executives when I was reading an issue of Katie Kretschmer shared their experiences in Vogue, I spotted a pair of Galo Editor/Contributing Writer beauty and fashion, while shoes and ordered them, Bravo served as interviewer. C.O.D.” She recalled how her father had her work on the Hayes acknowledged event ranch to pay for those shoes. Writers / Editors sponsors LVMH, Dior But that small town of 5,000 Wendy D'Amico, Creative Consultant and Arcade Beauty for making people is where her passion Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Writer the Tastemaker’s presentation began, and where she learned Carolyn Moss, Contributing Writer possible, and said she had an important lesson from her Melissa Pastore, Contributing Writer worked with Bravo many years prior. She noted her family: “Your integrity and your reputation are your storied accomplishments, among them her role as CEO most prized possessions.” of Burberry and an appointment as a Commander of the British Empire. Baxter, Hayes said, had held Baxter sold the car her mother had given her after Graphic Design positions at The Estée Lauder Companies, where she college and headed for her first job in New York City, Debora DeCarlo, DDC Graphics was responsible for such brands as Prescriptives and at Charles of the Ritz, where she became a makeup Crème de la Mer. Notable guests in attendance included artist and later a trainer. “The cosmetics training Linda Fargo, senior vice president at Bergdorf was excellent. The beauty business is intense and Goodman; Annette Green, former president of The covers everything involved in fashion. You’ve got Photography Fragrance Foundation; and Hervé Bichon, president, ‘clientelling,’ where you learn to get the customers to Maryanne Grisz North America, of Arcade Beauty. keep coming back; merchandising; and retail and Nancy Jeffries 1 CONTINUED ON PAGE 2 The Tastemakers . From left: Pamela Baxter, Margaret Hayes and Rose Marie Bravo Marylou Luther and Rose Marie Bravo Rose Marie Bravo with Annette Green development,” said Baxter. She noted similarities Bravo said Baxter’s experience with brand-building “In 1995, when Lauder bought La Mer, it took between the fashion and beauty industries, and was key in developing the Dior relationship four years to formulate around what was basically acknowledged the role of the beauty advisor and and asked what Baxter thought of the notion of a jar of cream. But if the DNA is strong enough, it merchandising in both areas. Reflecting on her continuous reinvention. “If you take the Dior brand will grow. People are still telling the story of Max experience with Jo Malone and Prescriptives, she and look at the advertising for beauty and fashion, Huber, the scientist who was burned in a lab, and said, “If I was going to stay in beauty, I was super you can see they were not on the same page. The how the marine-based ingredients, combined happy at The Lauder Companies.” Baxter, however, fashion brand was licensing everything from sheets in the right formula, helped heal his burns and wanted to transition to a fashion brand and to towels. Beauty and fashion were not speaking to ultimately became La Mer,” said Baxter. Clearly, a recalled Leonard Lauder’s understanding of her each other. There were about 500 licenses dilut- brand with a resonant story remains vital. decision when she left his employ. “Young lady, ing the brand, which Arnault stopped, as this was you have no idea what you’re getting into. You will confusing customers,” said Baxter. When asked by an audience member how Baxter, need someone to watch your back. You can take who is a grandmother, juggled her work and one person with you when you leave,” Baxter She described how Dior went to logoed handbags personal life, Baxter replied, “I just did it. I didn’t recalled him saying to her. She selected Terry and then decided to return to the history and think about it. You just figure it out. Mothers are Darland, then vice president of Prescriptives. heritage of the brand. “Now we’re taking it back to always more organized because they have to be.” where the house was originally. Know what your “Fashion didn’t believe that beauty had relatable brand DNA is,” she said. She credits Raf Simons skills,” noted Baxter. When she interviewed with — Nancy Jeffries for turning the Dior house around after John Dior and listened to Bernard Arnault’s vision Contributing Writer, [email protected] Galliano’s departure, and acknowledged the heart for the Dior beauty brand, she realized the brand he has shown for the brand. Bravo noted the was disconnected from the fashion side of the importance of a robust brand DNA, adding, “We business at that time, and believed she could need the creative juice that stays connected to the meld her beauty experience with the brand. She brand DNA, but still moves forward,” she said. came in on the beauty side in 2004 and in 2007 “got the keys to the fashion kingdom,” having When asked what it takes and how long it takes for successfully bridged what some believed was a a brand to develop, Bravo noted that it could be gap between beauty and fashion. three years before you get a taste of what it’s going to be like, then an additional five to see its growth, and another five to 15 years to see the breadth of Unique Brand DNA a brand. “Now, with the Internet, it’s changed. Bravo noted the differences between working for a The enabler of digital has sped everything up, but French company and working for an American making the right decisions and filling the need are company. “The French are very analytical. They still paramount,” said Bravo. Baxter cited Fresh as like to debate and they place a great emphasis on an example of a brand that came into its own. education. They don’t make decisions quickly. “Fresh, for example, took 25 years to arrive at its The American entrepreneurial spirit is different. current position. We reengineered it into skin care They take more risks,” said Bravo. Working for and it’s a good fit. Brands also have to be global, From left: Pamela Baxter and Rose Marie Bravo Dior and living in France, Baxter had to adapt to a so that’s something to keep in mind,” offered different way of doing business. Baxter. 2 Just Work It: Activewear, Out of the Gym and Into The Boardroom. W h a t A r e Yo u W e a r i n g To d a y ? From left: Dustin Jones, Dwane Morgan, Marshal Cohen & Grant Barth Ask anyone you know and the answer will probably school, switching to team gear in college and experience, retailers must learn how the customer surprise you. Gone are the prescribed formulas of eventually turning to yoga wear as young career buys product. They are then able to meet the dress: In many cases a new uniform has emerged. women. Comfort and stretch became a necessity competition across the market. A favored brand Casualization has taken hold of us all and a fit as they moved from Nike (footwear) to Lululemon often is more important to the customer than state of mind is the new stand ard. On July 29th, (luxury). Morgan felt it all started with footwear. price. He also talked about the value of consolidating the Fashion Group International addressed this This casual lifestyle provided a versatility that product in a destination location within a store. topic at an event entitled “Just Work It: Activewear, redefined activewear. Out of the Gym and into The Boardroom.” Morgan felt that this brand loyalty will be fostered Jones views this early success as just the once they get the customer into their product. TrimLab, the fashion/trim showroom and high-tech beginning as shoes and tops fueled the growth of By understanding their story, shoppers will product-development center, played host to the other businesses. Yoga pants and basketball understand the price/value equation. Educating sold-out event. After welcoming remarks, chief shorts encouraged fashion as an important part of them to what they are buying is a successful tool industry analyst of the NPD Group Marshal Cohen an active lifestyle.
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