1 the Best of Toronto

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THE BEST OF TORONTO 1

oronto, Canada’s largest city, is easy to like. An orderly metropolis of 5.7 million, it’s a good place for shop- Tping, dining, kicking back, and exploring attractions such as the CN Tower, Toronto Islands, AGO, and ROM. People here are friendly, and it’s the influence of the city’s 200-plus eth- nicities that together make Toronto vibrant. And it all happens in the heart of the city, which means it’s possible to drop in for a few days and “do the town” without running yourself ragged.

THINGS TO DO Hop on a Red Rocket, the city’s streetcars, and tour West Queen West’s galleries, restaurants, and boutiques, or take a stroll through the historic Distillery District and then venture to pretty Sugar Beach for a taste of the East End. Hop on a ferry, and in just minutes it takes you to the giant park that is the Toronto Islands, or catch a thrilling show at the Air Canada Centre. Or you can reach for the sky and ride to the top of the CN Tower, one of the world’s tallest freestanding structures. RELAXATION An abundance of parks grace the city’s core. The Toronto Islands, a short ferry ride across the city’s harbor, are car-free and perfect for cycling, rollerblading, or simply strolling. And the views back to the city are stunning. Green spaces such as Trinity Bellwoods and Queen’s Park are ideal for picnics and afternoon idylls. On the east end of town, the Beach residential neighborhood, along with Kew Gardens and the boardwalk, are good for a lazy afternoon lakeside. RESTAURANTS AND DINING Locals have a hunger for local fare from the surrounding region’s agricultural riches and wines from Niagara’s wine country. If you’d like a taste of Toronto terroir, any number of restaurants, new or established, will satisfy your appetite. And this celebration of Ontario’s bounty equally inspires all cuisines and cultures, from Cana- diana to Italian, Indian to fusion, burgers to bistros at restaurants such as Woodlot, Canoe,COPYRIGHTED Porchetta, Aravind, Allen’s, TOCA MATERIAL . . . the list goes on. NIGHTLIFE AND ENTERTAINMENT Toronto, like most major cities, brings in big-ticket touring musicals and other blockbuster shows. However, the city’s independent troupes, such as the brilliant Soulpepper, the venerable Canadian Stage, and the Factory Theatre, mount consis- tently well-received productions. Additionally, the Shaw Festival or Strat- ford Theatre Festival offer fine performing arts, plus a pretty road trip.

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004_9781118115954-ch01.indd4_9781118115954-ch01.indd 3 110/31/110/31/11 8:348:34 PMPM 1 THE most MEMORABLE TRAVEL EXPERIENCES W Taking in the Thomson Collection at the Art Gallery of Ontario: Locals are thrilled with local boy Frank Gehry’s renovation of the AGO. His design has bril- liantly revised (and expanded) the space, but the very best thing about the newly reopened AGO is the 2,000 works of art (great paintings, miniature sculptures, model ships) donated by local media magnate Ken Thomson. See p. 99. W Checking Out Local Theater and Music: Sure, Toronto mounts its fair share of blockbusters. But the fine, and often more rewarding, offerings from Soulpepper, Opera Atelier, the Canadian Stage Company, Tafelmusik, and the Lorraine Kimsa Theatre for Young People are innovative and generally excellent. And seeing the Canadian Opera Company onstage at the Four Seasons Centre for the Performing Arts is breathtaking. See “The Performing Arts,” in chapter 9. W Exploring the Distillery District: Not only is this carefully restored area a remark-

The Most Memorable Travel Experiences Travel Memorable Most The ably intact example of 19th-century industrial architecture, largely thanks to its

recent past as a stage set for movies and other productions, it’s also a hive of activ- ity. In addition to art galleries, shops, restaurants, and the city’s finest chocolate emporium, SOMA, you can hear live music or visit the farmers’ market. See p. 103. W Visiting the Toronto Islands: Toronto is blessed with a chain of leafy islands just a brief ferry ride away that are mostly residential and offer a pretty, quiet, car-free spot for a stroll or a bike ride. The main attraction, Centre Island, is wide open parkland with an old-fashioned theme park, complete with pony rides and cotton candy (needless to say, it’s great for kids). From the islands, you’ll have a perfect view of Toronto’s ever-evolving skyline. Pack a picnic, paddle a canoe, go bare if

THE BEST OF TORONTO THE BEST you dare at the sandy nudist beach, or take in the amusement park for a vacation within your vacation. See p. 108. W Skydiving at the CN Tower: Okay, it’s not really skydiving . . . but it’s close. From the ground, it looks simply mad, but the EdgeWalk, which opened in summer 2011, is a thrill-seekers’ dream. You’re locked into a harness that is attached to a pulley system and then circumnavigate the elevated, narrow (1.5m/5-ft.) ledge that circles the perimeter of the tower’s main pod. Not for vertigo sufferers! See p. 102. THE best SPLURGE HOTELS W The Ritz Carlton: It’s Ottawa’s first Ritz, and the brand’s reputation for elegance and five-star service does not disappoint. From the moment you enter the dramatic lobby, the ambition to impress is all around. Sip a sophisticated cocktail in one of the lounges, save room for a sublime meal at the Canadiana-themed restaurant TOCA by Tom Brodi, and luxuriate in spacious rooms or corner suites. There’s an excellent on-site spa with an adjoining lap pool and polished gym, too. See p. 54. W Hôtel Le Germain Maple Leaf Square: Last year, the small Le Germain chain opened a second Toronto location, Le Germain Maple Leaf Square, directly oppo- site the Air Canada Centre. The brand’s attention to detail is obvious throughout the property, and rooms are inviting and bright, fitted with sumptuous beds with Frette linens, and feature waterfall-like showerheads and other luxuries. See p. 56.

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Toronto Trending (http://trending.see eat and stay, cultural highlights, and THE BEST OF TORONTO torontonow.com) is an online tool that more, along with live satellite feeds, provides a look at what’s on, where to maps, and other tools.

W Thompson Toronto: The hip, luxury brand that started in New York City has landed in Toronto. Smartly situated in the King West district, this super-hot new hotel opened in summer 2010. Sixteen floors of fine modern design are comple-

mented by floor-to-ceiling windows, a rooftop pool, a private screening room, a

sushi bar, an all-night diner, an outpost of New York City’s Scarpetta restaurant,

and excellent service. See p. 56. The Most Memorable Dining Experiences THE best MODERATELY PRICED HOTELS W Delta Chelsea: This is a longtime favorite with budget-minded families. Perks include a playroom with live bunnies and fish, a video arcade, and a waterslide. It also offers children’s programs, a day-care center, and kid-friendly restaurants. Many rooms have fridges or kitchenettes. See p. 57. W Hotel Victoria: In a landmark downtown building near the Hockey Hall of Fame, the Victoria retains glamorous touches of an earlier age, including crown moldings and marble columns in the lobby. Standard rooms are on the small side but are nicely put together; deluxe rooms are larger and have coffeemakers and mini- fridges. A recent major renovation has only sweetened the deal: New guest rooms offer LCD TVs and new furnishings. See p. 59. W The Gladstone Hotel: This groovy hotel is moderately priced overall. And its locale along West Queen West; the many bars, lounges, and restaurants on-site and nearby; along with the friendly service make for a good, fun stay. See p. 57. THE most MEMORABLE DINING EXPERIENCES W The Black Hoof: Nose-to-tail eating is taken to extremes—and to truly tasty heights—at this brilliant restaurant-bar. Co-owner/chef Grant van Gameren’s hand-crafted charcuterie is the main draw (the tongue sandwich receives raves), but the pastas and entrees are equally inspired, as are the cocktails created by co- owner Jen Agg. See p. 76. W Canoe: The panorama from the 54th floor of this iconic bank tower in the heart of the Financial District is stunning, but as the many regulars can attest, the food is so good you might forget all about the view. It’s Canadian cuisine, such as Nunavut caribou and Québec foie gras, handled with delicacy and expert technique. The daytime vibe is corporate; evening is more romantic. See p. 70.

004_9781118115954-ch01.indd4_9781118115954-ch01.indd 5 110/31/110/31/11 8:348:34 PMPM W Gilead Bistro: Local top chef Jamie Kennedy is behind the stove at this small, 1 beautiful boîte. In other words, the food is sublime. Come for a light breakfast, a simple yet lovely lunch, or a real treat: a memorable dinner. Whatever time of day or evening, local seasonal ingredients are the stars. Great value, too. Finding your way can be tricky: It’s situated in a tiny alley in Corktown. See p. 81. W Guu Izakaya: There are plenty of good sushi spots and Japanese restaurants to choose from in town, but there’s little doubt of the fun and fine food to be had at this chaotic pub/restaurant with a great selection of small-plate dishes. A second location on Bloor Street West, Guu Sakabar, opened in spring 2011 and has helped to lessen the notoriously long lines. See p. 82. W The Local Kitchen: Parkdale’s favorite spot is part authentic Italian trattoria, part contemporary Toronto. The crowded, convivial room is idiosyncratic, the service pro yet friendly, and the food delicious. Chef Fabio Bondi arrives pre-dawn each morning to make stunning fresh pastas such as smoked gnocchi with creamy taleg- gio. See p. 77. W Scaramouche: Chef Keith Froggett and maitre d’ Carl Corte have been quietly perfecting one of the city’s finest restaurants for over 25 years. The formal dining room, which is best for special occasions, is complemented by the adjoining casual

The Best Things to Do For Free (or Almost) (or Free Do For to Things Best The pasta bar and grill. Located in a tony apartment building in midtown, there are beautiful views over the city. See p. 92.

W Woodlot Restaurant and Bakery: It’s a bit of the farm in the city, a coy conceit that works to great effect. There’s a wood-burning oven where breads, pies, and even meats and fish are cooked by chef/co-owner David Haman and his team. Menus (one meat, one vegetarian) feature savory pies, excellent soups, fresh pasta—all prepared with heart. Desserts and breads are not to be missed. See p. 76. THE best THINGS TO DO THE BEST OF TORONTO THE BEST FOR FREE (OR ALMOST) W Seeing Great Museums When They’re Discounted—or Free: Admissions to the Royal Ontario Museum and the Art Gallery of Ontario have jumped since their massive renovations. However, you can pay less—or nothing—if you know when to go. See “Saving on Admission Costs,” on p. 108. W Listening to a Concert at the Toronto Music Garden: Cellist Yo-Yo Ma co- designed this serene space that’s intended to evoke Bach’s “First Suite for Unac- companied Cello.” It’s easy on the eyes, but the best time to come here is for a summertime concert. Pure bliss. See p. 123. W Wandering through Riverdale Farm: In case you need more proof that Toronto is a very green city, it has a working farm in its midst. Cows, sheep, pigs, goats, and other critters call it home. See p. 128. W Strolling the Lakeside Boardwalk: You can choose from a number of starting points, but don’t miss the quirky parks, open-air concert venues, and wintertime skating rink near Harbourfront. Or venture east to the long boardwalk in the neighborhood called The Beach, where you’ll share the lake views with locals and their many dogs and youngsters. See p. 114.

004_9781118115954-ch01.indd4_9781118115954-ch01.indd 6 110/31/110/31/11 8:348:34 PMPM W Visiting Harbourfront Centre and the Power Plant Gallery: The collection of studios, stages, open-air exhibits (especially in summer), and the Power Plant Gal- 1

lery itself together offer an always-interesting, ever-changing attraction. You might THE BEST OF TORONTO call it a living museum. Watch for the many free special events. See p. 103. THE best MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES W Art Gallery of Ontario: Still fresh a few years after a top-to-bottom renovation— and reinvention—by Toronto-born Frank Gehry, The AGO is a wonder (the fabu-

lous, circular, floating staircase is especially impressive). There’s a lot to see here;

the collection numbers 79,450 pieces and growing. Don’t miss the Thomson Col- lection; central to the AGO, it spans 20 rooms and includes an unparalleled col- The Best Places to Hang with the Locals lection of great Canadian art. See p. 99. W Royal Ontario Museum: Good for the whole family, especially with the massive dinosaur collection and creepy bat cave, the impressive exhibits also include Chi- nese temple art, Roman statues, and Middle Eastern mosaics. See p. 107. W Ontario Science Centre: You don’t have to be a tyke to appreciate the impressive interactive displays here that take in the realm of science disciplines, from biology to technology, and make them fun and interactive. See p. 106. W Stephen Bulger Gallery: If you’re interested in fine-art photography, especially in the documentary tradition, this is the place to go in Toronto. The Gallery displays Canadian and international photography, both by established artists and up-and- comers, from Ruth Orkin to Pete Doherty. See p. 166. THE best PLACES TO HANG WITH THE LOCALS W Ossington Avenue: This once-downtrodden strip is now packed with good places to eat, drink, and catch live music. Dine at the excellent restaurants or grab a great pizza, sip a cocktail at an intimate club, take in some live music, and then stroll the streets that frame the area and get a look at how the locals live—in Victorian-era homes side-by-side with family-owned shops. Utterly charming. See p. 40. W The Drake Hotel: Set in the middle of the Art & Design District, this hotel fosters a sense of community by hosting music events, literary readings, and other festivi- ties. If you hate feeling like a tourist, this place is for you. See p. 54. W The Rogers Centre or the Air Canada Centre: The Rogers Centre is home base for the Toronto Blue Jays baseball team. The Air Canada Centre is where the Maple Leafs (hockey) and the Raptors (basketball) play. Torontonians come out to support them in droves. See p. 120. W Comedy Clubs: Maybe it’s something in the water: Toronto has produced more than its share of top-notch comedians, including the shagadelic Mike Myers, Jim Carrey, Dan Aykroyd, and the late John Candy. Checking out local talent or international stand-up stars at one of the many comedy clubs is a favorite pastime for Torontonians. See p. 195.

004_9781118115954-ch01.indd4_9781118115954-ch01.indd 7 110/31/110/31/11 8:348:34 PMPM W Treasure Hunting for Vintage Clothing in Kensington Market: How can one 1 small area have a dozen vintage-clothing vendors? And how do they keep prices low and the quality high? Haphazard Kensington Market is a big draw for local bargain hunters. See “Walking Tour 1: Chinatown & Kensington Market,” in chapter 7, and “Hunting for Vintage,” in chapter 8. The Best Places to Hang with the Locals Hang with the Locals to Places Best The

THE BEST OF TORONTO THE BEST

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