49 The Drake Hotel is a Hotel The Drake in nexus of culture In its café, Queen West. a cozy books create for afternoon backdrop cocktails.

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PHOTO CREDIT

2013 Katrina Onstad Katrina

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may may by photographs by

Toronto’s CoUrban ol Susan Seubert

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hear the crowd before I see it, gleeful squeals punctuating the early autumn evening. Such is the sound track of during TIFF, the Toronto International Film Festival, where celebrity sightings and red- carpet mobs come to seem normal for ten days every September. ¶ Though I’m on my way home for dinner, I’m compelled to bike toward the roar outside Roy Thomson Hall, the sloping glass theater on the edge of the financial district in Toronto’s downtown. There, hundreds of arms wave like a field of flowers, cellphones aloft. From the very back of the tumult, I crane my neck and catch glimpses of camera crews and a blur of well-dressed bodies. Nearby, an older woman sits on a bench with a little white dog. ¶ “What’s going on?” I ask. ¶ “Brad Pitt,” she says. ¶ “You’re not going to try to get closer?” ¶ “Nah,” she says. “There’ll be someone else tomorrow night. I’m just walking my dog.”

Her unfazed attitude seems as typically Toronto as the giddy Mellon in Pittsburgh to become a professor at the Rotman School crowd: The city is getting used to being at the center of things. of Management at the University of Toronto. His best-selling 2002 IToronto and TIFF have practically grown up side by side. A modest book, The Rise of the Creative Class, heralds successful cities as those art house affair 20 years ago, TIFF is now the world’s largest—and that attract and keep a creative citizenry who trade in innovation some say, most influential—public film festival. In the same period, and ideas rather than old smokestack industry. Toronto is a perfect Canada’s biggest city, on the northwestern shores of Lake , manifestation of his “Three T’s” index of good city building: technol- has gone from being known as “Toronto the Good”—a euphemism ogy, tolerance, and talent. for dull—to being a wildly cosmopolitan city. Nearly half of To- I’m curious to see how the Three T’s of Toronto play out on the ronto’s citizens were born outside Canada. As Lisa Ray, an actress streets, so I invite five local “creative class” guides to show me the of Indian-Polish descent raised in Toronto, tells me: “We’re the most neighborhoods they love. Toronto is known as a city of neighbor- successful social experiment in the world.” hoods, and one of these pockets is new, one is very old (well, old Even urban planning guru Richard Florida agrees. In 2007, for a town that wasn’t incorporated until 1834), and all are vibrant Florida, who grew up near Newark, , left Carnegie reflections of a self-assured city that’s finally come into its own.

A colorful community with an independent streak, (above) is a national historic site. Toronto’s downtown region connects some 20 neighborhoods. The Center Island ferry (opposite) offers a panoramic view, topped by CN Tower.

out with a smile and a discount on his black cod fillet. “It’s a small Kensington Market town,” says Virgo, one of Canada’s most revered writers and directors Global party mix in a heritage neighborhood of film and TV. Kensington is also one of the oldest neighborhoods Clement Virgo, all six feet of him, cuts a striking figure in his jean in Toronto, a protected heritage site spanning several scruffy blocks jacket, hands in pockets and collar up, bargaining in a Kensington west of Spadina, a major north-south artery that crosses the city Market fish shop.T he owner asks after Virgo’s son, and Virgo walks and burrows into the heart of . As you walk around on

50 may 2013 national geographic traveler 51 53 o o t’s t’s al- I getI ome at at ome ow this this ow ong, the oronto’s oronto’s hildren’s hildren’s C vergreen vergreen he down- eople ask C oronto’s celebrity celebrity oronto’s oronto, people oftenpeople oronto, T ot really knowing what discover as soon as soon as discover I aptors and Maple oronto Raptors and Maple ’d take long runs through the the through runs long take I’d he Brick Works isn’t some hippie- he Brick Works ong is one of T T “ L Behind the market,the the Behind in vergreen Brick Works, the revitalized vergreen Brick Works, ong buys his produce from the same the from produce his buys ong t’s the beauty of our natural resources, of our natural the beauty t’s ause. “Well, crazy in a good way.” way.” in a good crazy ause. “Well, - val has turned the alley Brick Works, L ’m not evennot annoyed I’m that so pleasant by the guy with the didgeridoo. L Brad says dippie experiment,” arden, kids crawl in a wood fort a in and kids crawl Garden, who bikers dig for worms. Mountain survived have lean against trails the blasta up soaking sun. buildings, of voiced chef who runs the Brick gravelly Café Belong. “OK, restaurant Works not crazy.” experiment, an it’s but it’s P chefs—his past as a journeyman rock him highly telegenic musician makes reclaimed the ignored lands, turning lands, turning reclaimed the ignored urban them into an area of “nonprofit N sustainability.” means, this artists. But a charity called E called artists. charity a But at the basin of the Don V off the bus into translates leythe eco-jargon that have Joggers morning. Saturday fun a the farmers mar- ended their runs at ket, up for burned calories with making french fries and artisanal cheeses. national geographic traveler national afé Belong, which strives to use strives which Café Belong, use to open to n the spirit of investigating one of T one of investigating n the spirit he whole city is alight.” is alight.” he whole city vergreen Brick Works. vergreen Brick T entre the Air Canada Centre at the restaurant ong ran lived nearby, and nearby, lived I alley was once the mouth of a glacial river. N river. alley glacial a of mouth the once was ong. “ V t never failed to astound me that only minutes from t never from only minutes failed to astound me that n locavore spirit, locavore n I What is Canadian food? I he repurposed decor features exposed wood over an open exposedhe repurposed decor features over an open wood he Don he he menu is always changing, but this season, critics are hailing he menu is always he recent opening of the E he recent opening of the T T Before this, L T T ong points out reclaimed design elements in the infrastructurethe in elements design reclaimed points out ong hange, however, can sometimes can T unnoticed by locals. go however, hange, ong walks me up a hill to point out the paths that wind through wind through that ong walks me up a hill to point out the paths eafs and feeding haute cuisine But seats. to high rollers in the box n the summer, wildflowers bloom on once toxic soil. “ soil. toxic once on bloom wildflowers summer, the n green strip of land divides the eastern and western halves of the the eastern strip the green and western of divides of land halves ago, Years city. and delightfully profane. Absorbing hellos from everyone he passes, L from the neighborhoods above, a 26-mile walking circle. the grass I Evergreen Brick Works Brick Evergreen industrialfor a former life wasteland New ravines into the valley as the traffic rumbled on the surrounding on the surrounding rumbled into the valley as the traffic ravines I freeways. or a lone fisherman tryingdowntown, I could spot a rabbit, get to the to give up a carp. Don V site of the abandoned and smokestacks years, the massive ley For into a hot destination. served and graffitifor practicea as canvas squatters sheltered kilns find myself early one Saturday morning on a free a free morning on newestmyself early one Saturday areas, I find bus to the E shuttle L says night,” sportsfare to T arena, bringing organic L after years struggling footprint left with the environmental by how the ACC he quit we eat, local, organic, responsibly sourced ingredients. don’t leave their own. I don’t leave the graffiti-splattered kitchen, with tall windows looking across at Works are legally protected). walls of a factory at Brick (the graffiti L water such as rain-barrel and talks up his sustainable initiatives, sourcing. side of the “city of neighborhoods” is that in that is neighborhoods” of “city the of side C farmers who set up their stalls on Saturday mornings. “P farmers who set up their stalls on Saturday me: used in this incredibly multicultural way.” the pork belly glazed in maple syrup and apple cider vinegar. T the pork belly glazed in maple syrup and apple cider vinegar. - t’s t’s ark, ddly, ddly, ong Kong Kong ong H oronto has a a oronto has downtown, I could spot ong Kong actionKong ong a rabbit, or a Don to River H minutes from e’s got got e’s give up a carp. give verything changes,” verything changes,” lone fisherman lone fisherman H trying to getthe It neverIt failed to astound me that ark down the street. irgo wants and Virgo hinatown,

ortuguese, Jamaican patois. I patois. ortuguese, Jamaican e grew P mostly up egent in R his is his is T oronto’s C oronto’s here’s no no here’s T t’s a bit like a bit t’s he Swoosh he Swoosh he Market is is he Market T irgo’s advice advice Virgo’s irgo’s rompo, Virgo’s T apas Bar: “ ook,” he says, pointing to a Star of David carved a Star of David pointing to he says, ook,” oronto from Jamaica at the age of 11 with his of 11 with his the age at Jamaica oronto from n the summers, the doors open and the sound sound the and open doors the summers, the n deal’s, and the best best the and deal’s, I hinese population, like many ethnic many communi- like hinese population, e’s lived in and around the area for almost lived in and around 20 years. e’s ndian T waiter dumps is still teeming with people. A waiter dumps hinatown arvest theater, near the corner of Dundas and Spadina, Spadina, and Dundas of corner the near arvest theater, eople line up for empanadas; racks of vintage clothing clothing of vintage racks empanadas; line up for eople oronto, has migrated to the suburbs, but on this brisk brisk this on but suburbs, the to migrated has oronto, joint, where he eats a a eats he where joint, taquito T ike. When locals got wind of the the of wind got locals When ike. othing here! Bubble tea!” n 2002, a club opened up that n 2002, a club opened up that irgo asks the apron-wearingasks the irgo back?” V the in s there still a theater irgo laughs. “E moment, and Virgo a strange t’s “N I “I Much of the C Much Kensington Market borders T Market Kensington orner, a grocery store on Baldwin me to Corner, leads Virgo to order sushi six-year-old who knows how a mixed-race “I have protec- Residents are ferociously Down the street is El T irgo came to T Virgo olden H olden his is hangover food, which might be might which food, hangover is his oronto’s punk rock scene. rock punk oronto’s director John Woo on the brain. Behind the counter, through a a through counter, the Behind brain. the on Woo director John O cinematic. suspiciously looks that staircase a is door, plywood the woman shuts the door so we can’t peek in. he says. an we see it?” see we “Can counter. the behind woman it’s a bubble-tea shop. a bubble-tea shop. it’s ties in ties C fall day, street, the of let side the by gutter the into water steaming of vats getting loose an aroma of fish. When we of the to the former site G irgo says the best locally the best locally says Starbucks (Virgo I is roasted coffee place to drink coffee and people-watch only one is Casa Acoreana), and there’s pass the grocery chain small store. We I Waterfalls to visit the movie theater where he used to watch watch to used he where theater movie the visit to would lead him to make a lust for film that awakening flicks as a kid, Game and to directThe Wire. episodes of Boy’s Poor like features a speakeasy,” he says. DJs spin and local reggae musicians share DJs spin and local reggae musicians share he says. a speakeasy,” microphone. the of reggae spills over into Bellevue Square P irgo’s mom used to take him here as a kid; it’s still his go-to here as a kid; it’s him mom used to take Street. Virgo’s meshow to wants he what But sauce. jerk and spices Jamaican for is outside: “L today nearly a a reminder of the time into the sidewalk by the doorway, century was predominantly Jewish. when the neighborhood ago “ he says. and burritos,” I want to live in.” the city once the core of tive of Kensington, T necessaryfollows if one last the on Bar Embassy the hits and of everySaturday month. “I a project on the east side of the city, but whenever but projecta public housing on the east side of the city, the streetcaron to Kensington ride (T he’d could, he rocket” “red by system,bestis downtown navigated but subway streetcars). music, Spanish “I loved walking past musicians playing people speaking P hear reggae. I’d H a piling on.” indie music bar a typical seemed like but proved to be a promotional vehicle N for left some repeatedly garbage invasion, doorstep to protest Nike’s on the club’s practices.foreign labor up and left.packed favorite chorizo. con of huevos heaping plate T ike tried to get in,” says Vir- says tried to get in,” where Nike I go. a weekend, it helps to keep your elbows out to steer through the steer out to your elbows the through to keep it helps a weekend, P crowds. nexthuddle tattooed pierced and where the cafés independent to get caffeine hits. their mother, brother, and two sisters. H and two brother, mother,

PHOTO CREDIT Street markets bustle in Chinatown (left) and lattes steam at bustle in Chinatown (left) steam and lattes markets Street Valley Don (above). West the Mascot, a coffee shop in Queen has (below) of a city park. part become Brick Works 2013

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get through the Canadian winters with flavor,L ong is also experi- menting with pickling. Pickling has always seemed apocalyptic to me; it’s how we’ll eat at the end of the world, which doesn’t seem so delicious. But I order the pickle plate, and what appears is a sampling, including pears, carrots, and chokecherries, each uniquely flavored. My ladylike nib- bling quickly becomes inelegant wolfing. The eggplant in a madras sauce has a complicated, revelatory spiciness. “I’ll admit I’ve taken a jar of that home after work and eaten the whole thing before bed,” says the server. It’s even better washed down with a dry white wine from Stratus in the nearby Niagara region. For the diners, the emphasis is on taste, not sustainability. “I tell my staff to shut up,” says Long. “You can scare people by explaining provenance. It’s too much information. We give them good food with value and ambience, and the trick is to get the hell out of the way.” Queen West Artfully reimagined for the next generation There’s only so much green a city dweller can take before she must get back to street level. No neighborhood better embodies Toronto’s urban cool than Queen West, and that’s an entirely biased opinion, as it’s been my home for nine years. runs east-west from one end of the city to the other, but Queen West is generally considered the chunk west of Bathurst, ending near the Gladstone Hotel, around Dufferin Street (somewhere on that westward walk,

Room 318 in the Gladstone Hotel outlines visions in blue and white (left). Jatinder and Sarbjeet Singh share a moment at Chandan Fashion, their Gerrard Bazaar boutique (opposite).

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Feature: Toronto 4th Proof 54 may 2013 Traveler national geographic traveler 55 2/27/13 perhaps near the bucolic Trinity Bellwoods Park, street signs tell Ray grew up with her Polish mother and Indian father in a sleepy us we’re supposed to call it West Queen West, but it seems that suburb of the city but became a supermodel in Mumbai when she nobody really bothers). was still in her teens. In 2005, she starred in the Academy Award- The Gladstone Hotel, built in 1889, stands as a proud land- nominated film Water (in which she played an ostracized widow), mark dividing Queen West from neighboring Parkdale. It’s a regal and she has spent most of her adult life in Mumbai, , Richardsonian Romanesque building with arched windows and London, , Milan, and . “The Toronto of my youth red brick, but only a decade ago the best way to describe it was was wound tight—very conservative, very insecure. There was no decrepit—a leaky eyesore known for its hand-operated elevator hunger for greatness,” she says. and karaoke night filled with hipsters and long-term hotel guests. Her return was dramatic: In 2009, Ray developed a rare form The Zeidler family took control of the hotel in 2002, and daughter of cancer called multiple myeloma and found herself settling into Christina Zeidler oversaw the Gladstone’s delicate overhaul, making Toronto more permanently. She’s in good health now, but she has careful efforts not to displace staff and residents while simultane- stuck around. “I’m not thinking I want to be anywhere else any- ously saving the dying building, inch by inch. more.” And anyway, she says, “it’s a very Canadian thing to make “It’s transformed, but that’s not the purpose of it,” says Zeidler, your name somewhere else and then come back home.” sitting in the Melody Bar by a curling mahogany bar from the 1940s. As we walk down Gerrard late one morning, the sari stores are “The purpose was to respond to a neighborhood. I like the idea of yet to open, and the mannequins are wrapped in black sheaths, revitalization, trying to bring the building back to life, back to the eerily resembling Benedictine monks in the sunlight. Ray points community, make it a hub. I don’t feel as if it belongs to me. I feel to a group of people in a jewelry store, the older women in saris, it belongs to the community.” the younger in jeans. “That’s definitely Two blocks east on Queen, the Drake a bride getting bling for her wedding,” Hotel has been similarly restored, to a she says. slightly more upscale end. Both hotels “There should Ray stops in front of a clothing store present exhibits and events. The art where a faded old sign reads “House of scene in Toronto has usually been a be something 220.” “People would buy toasters and movable feast, but for several years, ghetto blasters with Indian wiring to Queen West has held fast as a gallery send to family back home as gifts,” she row. The Gladstone now offers an arts more romantic says, remembering crowds lining up walking tour of the area. “The wish and out the door during the holidays. While hope is that the art scene will remain and passionate her dad was buying small appliances, here as a vital, living part of the city,” young Lisa would pore over glossy Bol- says Zeidler. lywood magazines and scour the stores An artist herself, Zeidler sensed the to describe for Indian products like coconut oil and lack of venues for Toronto’s creative herbal remedies. population, so she hired hungry local Toronto than Now, of course, the South Asian artists to give each of the 37 rooms at diaspora—much of it settled in the sub- the Gladstone its own feel: pretty in ‘livable.’ Can’t urbs—can get its information about the pink in the Teen Queen, or streamlined homeland from the Internet and order Perhaps more than any other neighborhood, Queen West channels Toronto’s creative spirit. The Drake Hotel (above) keeps the sparse in the El-e-men-tal room. a toaster online. But bohemian vibe alive in the gallery district. Near Queen West, a band makes joyful noise at the Communist’s Daughter (below). The success of the Drake and the we call Toronto remains a fine example of what Rich- Gladstone has coincided with—or ard Florida calls an “,” an caused?—a boom in the surrounding sexy yet?” immigrant community built around neighborhood. Zeidler and I take a cultural identity, where the streets mir- walk along Queen Street east from the ror the inhabitants’ country of origin. Gladstone, Zeidler peering in the windows of her favorite galler- “For Indians who come here, the neighborhood is a kind of nostalgia ies, starting with Katharine Mulherin Contemporary Art Projects, for nostalgia,” says Ray. a showcase for up-and-coming artists. Stephen Bulger waves at Though still bustling, the strip has a slightly shabby mien beneath Zeidler from the window of his gallery, which specializes in pho- the superficial glitz, with more abandoned storefronts than there tography. The Museum of Contemporary Canadian Art (MOCCA) used to be. The neighborhood’s “Little ” nickname isn’t even is tucked away behind a parking lot. Outside the gallery for the entirely accurate anymore; these days, merchants are Pakistani as Ontario Crafts Council, Zeidler looks through the glass: “Oh, I love well as Indian. An Islamic bookstore and an Indian sweetshop sit that,” she says, pointing at a small ceramic forest of white sticks. on the same block. A woman unlocking her bicycle nearby overhears and says, “It’s But the restaurants are still hopping, and that’s why people travel called ‘Dancing Chromosomes.’ I made it.” She turns out to be a to Gerrard from across the city. We pass Motimahal, with its fast- ceramist named Chari Cohen. Still wearing her bike helmet, she food seats, and stop at the Lahore Tikka House, with psychedelic- and Zeidler, who have never met, discuss what might be a better colored tuk-tuks outside and walls draped in mirrored fabrics inside. word for crafts. “I’m thinking ‘material arts,’ ” says Zeidler, whose It’s like a Russian nesting doll: rooms within rooms and a seemingly dream of a living arts community feels very real. endless basement. Our waiter, whose hair is dyed the color of an orange Popsicle, serves our biryani on Styrofoam plates with plastic cutlery. “Always Gerrard Bazaar get the chicken tikka,” says Ray, sipping Limca, an Indian soda. The colors of India along an ever evolving street Ray talks about her friends in Toronto, many of whom she made Far from the cool of Queen West, a few miles to the northeast, is the since returning. I tell her Richard Florida calls Toronto “messy Gerrard Bazaar, sometimes called . This six-block stretch urbanism” in action: imperfect coexistences all around, man and along Gerrard Street, in an otherwise quiet, working-class neigh- nature, bikes and cars, religions and cultures atop one another—but borhood, sparkles at night with saris swinging from the awnings always livable. Ray rolls her eyes at the word. and gold bangles twinkling in the windows of the jewelry stores. “There should be something more romantic and fanciful and Incense tickles the throat. “This street was our umbilical cord to passionate to describe Toronto than ‘livable,’ ” she says. “Can’t we India in the eighties,” says Lisa Ray. call Toronto sexy yet?”

56 national geographic traveler 57 59 verybody verybody contributing contributing raveler t’s our community jar, jar, our community t’s ’s second novel, E ’s ’m aware that I am in that aware eslieville, I’m nstad O lives in Portland, Oregon, and Maui. and Maui. Oregon, lives in Portland, national geographic traveler national atrina K eubert S

-list celebrities are celebrating an international international an celebrating are -list celebrities usan oronto is a tale of many cities—in one. oronto is a tale of many S oronto, a neighborhood village sprung into existence by the existence by into sprung village neighborhood a oronto, T verything, will be published in June. T Sitting on my barstool in quiet on my L Sitting

as E H World culture and natural history are on display at the history are and natural culture World in a daringly Ontario angular space (above) Museum Royal is furniture Daniel Libeskind.designed by architect Vintage in Leslieville(opposite). an eye-catching store at Guff, stacked Canadianand toonies (one- and two-dollar loonies of glittering a jar it is there. “I I ask why coins) on the counter. the bartender. says for local projects gardens and art,” like micro- in a different village least in part. at Meanwhile, industry, creative A city, same this in T film festival. writer Toronto-based photographer photographer his ip car- vro, where vro, where

n ot t’s a a t’s uban uban ” ntario, ntario, talian Formula One talian Formula ake O ake …” She trails …” She trails esbiville.” esbiville.” here’s no attitude; attitude; no here’s t Doll Factory by by At Doll Factory T eslieville has become eslieville’s many vintage design design vintage many eslieville’s ew York comparisons, ew York L eslievillers are used to ndia along Queen Street’s Queen Street’s ndia along orontonians are commit- hicago. hicago. f hip, established Queen hip, establishedIf Queen ove the Design, a curated curiosity shop. orontonian (self-description:orontonian amones onesies his Dress, Ramones onesies T overs” and “L noteca, a wildly popular wine bar scari Enoteca, a wildly popular wine bar eslieville had a reputation for for reputation a had eslieville Canadian-albums party (you must love Corey L Roze Fischer is a French- athalie- talian scari peek out from every surface. At the east end ew York or C ew York he streets are crowded with baby strollers, he streetshe and tree-lined. “I are wide aitian-I T ady Marmalade (T ady Marmalade orontonians bristle at N bristleorontonians at eslieville is for L o., in 2006, renting an apart in 2006, renting - Roze and Co., athalie- t the At the eslieville grew to serve the film industry. witter that two chefs were coming to sell C sell to coming chefs were two that witter Roze and Co. champions Canadian design- athalie- ast, past furniture and s we walk along Queen East, past furniture and he day before we met, the coffee shop Mercury shop Mercury before we met,he day the coffee ottage, a Celtic bar with live eslieville Ceili Cottage, is the hobbit-like he neighborhood of early 20th-century duplexes But not long ago, ago, long not But curve.Fischer was ahead of the L N T out checking Fischer advises hole, the A a local watering Nightlife continues at When the stores close, the bars and restaurants open. Worn-out Worn-out open. restaurants storesand the bars When the close, We settle down to brunch at linoleum-topped tables linoleum-topped down to brunch at settle We T A anadian mutt”) who set who accessories and clothing a up mutt”) anadian decide to have a beer at the bar, where I spot bar, the a beer at art to endure this). I decide to have ittle I eslieville, just south of Little the best who eschew for shoppers destination I chains. part, L L to closer neighborhood, the of end south massive studios host film and TV shows in production, tax credits. L lured by the city’s streets off with cones and trailers—streets blocked that could pass for N Leslieville folksy sassy and corner of At the called a neighborhood for buzzword the is “livable” But L east end. T so I’ll it fastand duck: say cheerful, then cheap, Village, and DIY West is the West cousin. Queen East livable is Brooklyn—its more poverty and crime. N Canadian-H “C shop, N mom said: ‘You’ll be mugged!’ “My ment nearby. at night. Fischer shows meers and offers crafts courses for the neighbor- flag-wave that bags and buttons canvas hood: “L min- “Back in ten different stores,clothing we hit two utes” signs. nine-block town. All the things you want from a big city, charm. genuine this have you but no one checks out your shoes before they serve you. N but happening on Queen West, that’s that east-west rivalry. at a playful hinting off, young families priced out of more estab- has attracted lished areas. T retailersand to roll in. them want the rock-and-roll in-houseDamzels, a store showcasing fashion line Damzels in T boots. Baby on the H share shelf space with feather-covered they sculptures. look like ries designer slings and pacifiers so pretty outdoor to the popular people coming kept the owner past winter, by erectingpatio a yurt for up to 30. there instead, with seating to encounter a whimsical theme event, likely such as letter- you’re writing night or an all- H stores. We stop in L longest stores. We I covet reindeer antlers before being distracted a pair of shiny by beautiful handmade stationery. A shoppers can dine at of famed I and pasta where images restaurant driver Alberto A of L T music in a shack with oyster shells cemented into the walkway. at kitschy L kitschy at toast, Fischer describes ted brunchers). Over French wired.” her clientele as “renegade, self-employed, and “I toffee pudding for ten bucks. sandwiches and sticky with a laugh. Fischer says over there,” basically ran spresso hosted a “pop-up” food event, announcing Espresso hosted a “pop-up” food event, announcing T on

PHOTO CREDIT 2013

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