The What's on Guide to Phnom Penh

THE WHAT’S ON GUIDE TO PHNOM PENH December 2007

www.asialifecambodia.com 2 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 #12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 3 contents

28 Tim Page Fresco 2 54 contents AsiaLIFE We visit the new Fresco outlet in An interview with one of the most NGO land deceMBer 2007 well regarded photo journalists in South East Asia 55 Quiz nights 13 Danny Whitehead 30 Saigon

Exercise the brain matter at Has written a new version of Ham- Phnom Penh’s various quiz nights let for this year’s Christmas panto - you may even win a prize Photo of Tith Veasna taken by We visit the cultural hotspots, Virginie Noel. Cover designed by restaurants, nightlife and shops of 59 Paul Stewart Keith Kelly. 14 Streetsmart Vietnam’s biggest city

Editor in Chief: Mark Jackson [email protected] 37 Fabrizio Sartor Tel: 012 182 8237

Editor: Liz Ledden [email protected]

Associate Editor: Charis Shafer [email protected] We soak up the local flavour of Art Director: Keith Kelly Street 63, and explore its more [email protected] expat oriented southern end His new CD-ROM takes We meet the man behind Phnom you on a virtual tour Sales Manager: Qudy Xu of Angkor [email protected] 17 Cambodia’s art scene Penh’s popular Italian eatery Luna d’autunno Director of Sales & Marketing: Jonny Edbrooke [email protected] 38 Al fresco dining Production: Say Vichny Deck the halls Photographers: Nathan Horton, Virginie 65 Noel & Kate Burbidge Where to buy the best Accounts: Say Vichny Christmas baubles, Are Cambodia’s artists ready to cards and more for the Distribution: Seang Seyha stand on their own two feet? festive season Special thanks to: Coral Glennie, Mike Some of the city’s best options for Gracey, Julian Grant, Gwang Ching Seven year itch Lee, Naomi Robinson, Lotta Väänänen, 26 outdoor dining, from poolside to Afonso Vieira and Laura Watson – for their terrace to rooftop 72 On the waterfront contribution to this issue.

For advertising and marketing enquiries 47 Cantina please call Qudy on 012 960 076.

If you want a copy of AsiaLIFE Phnom Penh delivered to your doorstep email: [email protected] We chat with Java’s Dana AsiaLIFE Phnom Penh is printed in Langlois about her seven years Cambodia by Digital Advertising. supporting the local art scene Tequilas and tortillas - Hurley Is Kampot about to experience a explains the secret behind the tourism take-off? THE WHAT’S ON GUIDE TO PHNOM PENH REGULARS riverside’s most popular local The Wire 06 . Resort Review 33 . Motorbike Diaries 34 . Getaway Guide 35 . Restaurant

AsiaLife is a registered trademark. No Guide 40 . City Map 42 . Bargain Bucket 44 . Bars 48 . Spot the Bar 50 . Scrapbook 52 . content may be reproduced in any form Coffee Filter 54 . Leisure & Wellness Guide 56 . Laura Watson 58 . Arts Diary 60 . Book without prior authorisation of the owners. © Inside Out Investments Ltd. (BVI) Worm 62 . Culture 63 . Top of the Bops 64 . Billboard 64 . Shopping Guide 66 . Information 70 . Regional Guide 74 . Unplugged 79 . Photo Essay 80 . Pub Quiz 82 . Sudoku 82 . Editorial It seems that November marked the birthday for many bars and restaurants around town. Dec. 16 is the first anniversary of AsiaLIFE Phnom Penh. It’s now one year ago that we launched our magazine at Pontoon Lounge. At the time friends and acquaintances doubted whether there was enough going on in this fair city of ours to maintain a monthly lifestyle magazine. Hope- fully a year down the line, Saigon, for those of you and with the emergence of who want a change of scene the Globe magazine as well, for Christmas. we’ve managed to answer a Tim Page has produced few doubters. some of the finest photo- I believe this month’s journalism in the region. We PLAYING LIVE AT THE issue is our most interest- include an interview, first FCC Angkor – 7th December @ 9PM ing yet. We cover one of the printed in AsiaLIFE HCMC, more dynamic and visible with the veteran English FCC Phnom Penh – 8th December @ 9PM aspects of life in this city – photographer on his recent the arts scene. trip to Saigon. Over the last few years, The last year has been a Cambodian art has started to roller-coaster full of chal- really lift off. In our cover sto- lenges and rewards. I’d just ry, Charis Shafer investigates like to take this opportunity whether Cambodian artists to thank my wonderful team are now ready to stand on – Keith, Qudy, Liz, Charis, Ny, their own two feet, or are still Seyhag, Nathan and Virginie reliant on traditional western – as well as all the freelanc- intermediaries and facilita- ers and those who have tors. Charis also provides an come and gone, for their A-to-Z of the Phnom Penh great support over the year. art world, providing snippets Second, I would like to thank of information on the artists all our advertisers who have here and the venues in which prevented the bailiffs from their works are displayed. knocking on my door. The third element of Also last month, my col- Charis’ work is a retrospec- league in Saigon Nick Ross tive on Dana Langlois’ Java decided to call it a day with Café and Gallery. Over the AsiaLIFE. It was Nick who last seven years Dana has came up with the concept probably contributed more for the original Saigon Inside than any other expat towards Out magazine that spawned lifting the international profile AsiaLIFE HCMC and AsiaLIFE of Cambodian artists as well Phnom Penh. I just want to as kick-starting the career of thank Nick for his boundless many young artists. energy and mentoring. Away from art, not sur- As always I hope you prisingly, we feature some enjoy reading this issue and drinking and dining options look forward to receiving for the festive season. Liz your feedback. Looking Ledden also provides some back at our initial magazine advice on where to buy from December 2006, I Christmas baubles. Liz also think the advances we have talks with Fabrizio Sar- made since then are clear PLAYING LIVE AT THE tor about his popular Luna for all to see. My promise FCC Angkor – 10th & 11th December @ 9PM d’autunno Restaurant. to you, our readers, is that Outside of Phnom Penh, we will continue to make FCC Phnom Penh – 14th & 15th December @ 9PM we take a look at the chang- the same advances over the ing face of Kampot, as well following year. as providing you with the Send comments to: low-down on neighbouring [email protected]

#08 August 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 5 The Month That Was 6 Openings 12 The Wire News & Events 10 this was the wire

seafood,the cognac, month smiles, photos, thatbirthdays, and was more...

including Linda Saphan, Qudy a Hennessy cognac evening, Xu and Fleur Childs. One of where the young and beautiful, Linda’s pieces raised US$1,000 unashamedly dressed to im- – the same amount as the cost of press crowd enjoyed live music four operations. alternated with DJ sets. Some For more information visit: www. excellent rhythmic drumming operationsmile.com was a highlight of the evening. Special ‘Hennessy Artistry’ Seafood buffet opens at cocktails all featuring the pre- Raffles Hotel Le Royal mium beverage were enjoyed Nov. 2 was the opening night along with delicious canapés, in of Raffles Hotel Le Royal’s new what is surely one of the city’s weekly seafood buffet. By 8pm most glamorous locales. the hotel’s Café Monivong had Topaz, 182 Norodom Blvd., filled up with patrons eager to Tel: 012 333 276 try the seafood on offer, ranging from house smoked salmon, to Angkor Photo Festival sashimi, to seafood soups and Southeast Asia’s premier pho- hot and cold seafood mains. tography festival hit the streets A stir-fry station offered fresh of Cambodia’s major tourist Joseph Mussomeli mussels, giant prawns and town from Nov. 17 to Nov. 28. At the Operation Smile auction more, and an array of delectable Photographers from Europe, Operation Smile inclusion in the groundbreak- desserts rounded things off the U.S., China, India, Thailand, Cambodia was one of 25 ing mission, Operation Smile nicely. Themed decorations Singapore, South Korea, Japan, countries that were part of Cambodia’s programme director, in the form of a cylindrical Indonesia and Bangladesh had Operation Smile’s ‘World Dr Mok Theavy, said, “it is my aquarium and an ice-carving of works shown at the event. There Journey of Smiles’ mission from dream that one day all babies a fish (with four kinds of caviar were also free workshops for Nov. 8 to Nov. 16. Designed to born with a cleft lip or cleft palate decadently served from its top) emerging Asian photographers commemorate the organisation’s in Cambodia get free treatment.” completed the scene. The buffet with renowned photographers 25-year anniversary, during Also announced were plans to runs from 7pm every Friday Philip Jones Griffiths, Roland the mission Operation Smile collect and study the DNA of all night in Café Monivong, and is Neveu, Benoit Gysembergh, operated on an estimated 5,000 children operated on so scientists US$24+ per person. Patrick de Noirmont, Antoine children across the world, could undertake a study on what Café Monivong, Raffles Hotel Le d’Agata and Suthep Kritsana- born with a cleft lip or cleft causes the defects. Royal, Street 92, Tel: 023 981 888 varin. Proceeds from the event go palate – a congenital defect that A fundraising event was towards the Anjali Centre set up is easily treatable yet sadly is held on Nov. 16 at the U.S. Hennessy party at Topaz by the organisers to provide Siem often unaffordable for many in Ambassadors residence. The rain outside did little to Reap’s street children with basic developing countries. Donations were made by local dampen the party spirit at schooling and art education. At a press conference on businesses and there was a Topaz on Oct. 26. The second For more information visit: www. Nov. 5 to announce Cambodia’s raffle of works by local artists floor Piano Bar played host to angkorphotofestival.com

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6 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 #12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 7 the wire

Rick Stein at Pacharan France, Thailand and Cambo- Rick Stein, one of the U.K.’s most dia tied their laces and held in Cambodia Uncovered famous chefs visited Pacharan their guts to take part in this on Oct. 26, as part of his Indo- year’s Angkor 10s on Nov. 3. Exclusive Tours china Tour. The chef at London’s Held at Phnom Penh’s Royal Seafood Restaurant’s appearance Navy Field, Singapore-based the wire Do you live in Phnom Penh at one of the riverside’s premium Bedok Kings ran out the win- but feel you don’t know restaurants firmly puts Phnom ners of the Sharky Cup, beating Penh on the culinary map. Stein the Saigon Geckos 24-0 in the Cambodia? prepared a five-course degusta- final. On the previous day, the tion menu lapped up by the Bangkok Bangers won the Pick- Do you have friends and capital’s gourmands. led Parrot Old Boys Cup in a family visiting but you Pacharan, 389 Sisowath Quay, competition that even featured have to work? Tel: 023 224 394 a Russian team.

We offer a genuine Khmer experience... Birthday Bashes International Music Festival village and cultural tours – in and around November was a hectic month Phnom Penh’s fourth interna- Phnom Penh. for bar owners. Some of the tional music festival ran between capital’s best-loved bars and Nov. 1 and 11. A series of classi- • Cruise the Mekhong – day trips restaurants notched up another cal concerts featuring musicians or longer year last month. from Cambodia, Germany, Japan • Road trips – in & around Phnom Penh.... The Green Vespa turned three and New Zealand were held at Kandal, Takeo, Kep – 1, 2 or 3 day trips on Nov. 10. Bar owner Alan was St Joseph’s Chapel. The theme seen downing a yard of green of the festival was exoticism and • Khmer cooking classes ale – albeit in a non-too-impres- cross-culturalism. sive time – and Julian Grant • Boutique Accommodation played the Vespa’s trademark Cambodia’s Ray Charles mix of 80s music. at Talkin 1-4 persons only Nov. 17 was possibly the busi- Talkin to a Stranger played est night of the month. KWest host to the king of Khmer celebrated its fifth anniversary blues, Kong Nai. Kong Nai Phone: 012507097 or 012626353 with a special menu, lucky draw plays the chapei dong veng, [email protected] and DJ Illest spinning his MP3 a long-necked two stringed vinyls. While around the corner instrument. The event was a www.cambodiauncovered.com customers at Dara’s Salt Lounge private one, which also featured were literally spilling out onto a film crew recording footage the street, watching a procession for an upcoming documentary. of drag acts, celebrating the third In traditional garb, the raspy- anniversary of Phnom Penh’s voiced musician wore dark first gay bar. designer sunglasses to cover his The following night one of blind eyes. Known as the Ray Phnom Penh’s most popular late Charles of Cambodia, the master night drinking haunts, Howie’s of the lithe instrument certainly Bar, notch up its eighth year. has the ethos of the late blues musician and made the two Angkor 10s strings sing for the privileged Rugby teams from Singapore, few who were able to witness Vietnam, U.A.E., South Korea, this great in action.

Kong Nai Known as the Ray Charles of Cambodia

8 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 the wire the wire

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 9 the wire

the wire newspepy, sporty, spiders, & pepper,events rocks, specials, and more

Thom Thom Unplugged at Meta House this month Siem Reap Gets Sporty dishes as well as Khmer. There While CNN’s eyes might turn are also photographs of children towards the Johnny Walker who have benefited from the Cambodia Open from Nov. programmes of the international Pepy Ride Proceeds go to bike-to-school programme 29 to Dec. 2, a couple of lower street kid NGO. Tastes from the profile sporting events mark food in the cookbook will be teaching English and environ- Voluntourism on the first few days of the month served at the opening. mental lessons, and meet with two wheels in Siem Reap. A 100-kilometre Romdeng Restaurant, 21 Street 278 Don’t be surprised if you NGOs to better understand local race and 50-kilometre rally, the see a group of cyclists riding development projects. 2007 Angkor Wat Bike Race and through the backwaters of The volunteers raise US$2,000 Christmas Gifts at Rally starts from Angkor Wat Cambodia at the end of the towards Pepy’s programmes Silk & Pepper at 5.45am on Dec. 1. Organisers This year Christmas shopping month. The third annual Pepy in Cambodia, which include Village Focus International starts early at Silk & Pepper. Ride cycle marathon will set supporting funding for rural anticipate 200 participants for Original necklaces, elegant off from Siem Reap on Dec. 29, schools, a bike-to-school pro- the event. jewellery, colourful scarves and having first spent a few days in gramme that provides bikes The following day 2,000 refined bedspreads are just a few the tourist capital. to students with excellent at- runners are expected to turn up great ideas for unique Christmas The ride includes Bat- tendance records, and a school for the twelfth annual Angkor presents. Silk & Pepper also tambang, Kep, Kampot and library programme. Wat Half-Marathon organised presents their new collection of Sihanoukville. En route the For more information visit http:// by Hearts of Gold. Proceeds lovely children’s pyjamas “Chut, riders will volunteer at schools, www.pepyride.org/ from both events will go je rêve” to place under the towards funding projects by Christmas tree. the organisations. Silk & Pepper, 33 Street 178, & Amanjaya Hotel Spiders and Water Lilies A new 170-page cookbook Phnom Penh Rocks produced by Friends Inter- Just like the proverbial London national featuring 42 recipes double-decker bus, rock concerts from Romdeng Restaurant will in this city seem to come in be launched at the restaurant threes and fours. Dec. 1 marks on Dec. 7 at 6pm. Produced what the organisers claim is the entirely on a volunteer basis, all first indie rock concert in Phnom the proceeds from this Cam- Penh. German band Diva Inter- bodian cookbook will go to national and Bear-Garden from Friends International. Thailand will play at the Bopha The recipes come from Restaurant, Sisowath Quay, start- Romdeng’s chef Sok Chong – a ing at 8pm. former street kid himself – and The following weekend include Chinese and Cham Australian blues band

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#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 11 the wire

Backsliders, featuring former Midnight Oil drummer Rob Hirst, will play some “delta- Openings blues wall of sound” at the FCC Angkor and FCC Phnom Penh on Dec. 7 and Dec. 8 respectively, with brownies, cookies, starting at 9pm. breads and more. In between the Phnom Penh- Phnom Penh Orchid, based Khmer and French rock 7 Street 360, Tel: 023 351 107 band, Thom Thom, will play their first unplugged set at the Frog without the Parrot Meta House (Dec. 5 at 7pm). This small guesthouse and And for those wanting some bar was opened in early No- truly raw talent, ten-year-old vember by Steve, the owner soprano Bosbapanh is perform- of the Frog & Parrot. Serving ing at the Chaktomuk Hall on pizzas, pasties and Ma- storyboard Dec. 21 at 7pm, simultaneously dras curries until 3am, this launching her new album en- promises to be one of the few titled Dreams. places to go to if the midnight Details of all events are in our munchies hit you while down Arts Diary, pages 60 to 61. on the riverfront. Frogshack Balcony Bar, Victoria’S Festive specials 175 Sisowath Quay, Siem Reap’s Victoria Angkor Tel: 0121 909 685 Resort & Spa is offering some special packages for the holiday Ice Cream A-Go season including a round trip Saffron Monsoon Street 278, difficult to find in Bong Karem ice cream has airport transfer, dinner, daily Majid and Evee’s new Phnom Penh. The long bar moved from its location from breakfast, 20-minute massage restaurant, Saffron, had its and slate 9-ball pool table Sa: Restaurant to Java Cafe and free room upgrade upon official launch on Nov. 10. promise to make this one & Gallery and Java Express. availability. The special three- The well-attended opening, of the more sociable bars in It will be available in both night package is US$427 from despite rival attractions that town. Pascal says Liquid will outlets from 12pm to 8pm, Dec. 23 to Dec. 26 and US$457 night, bodes well for the be more bar than the restau- Tuesday to Sunday. from Dec. 30 to Jan. 2. owners of Monsoon Wine rant-orientated Flavours. Bong Karem at Java Café, Victoria Angkor Resort & Spa Bar. They promise the new Liquid, Street 278, Tel: 012 56 Sihanouk Blvd. Tel: 063 760 428, restaurant will have the same 765 896 www.victoriahotels-asia.com mix of Pakistani cuisine and fine wines, but as opposed Upscale Thai Independent Xmas to Monsoon, Saffron is open Opened in November, Phnom Sihanoukville’s premier Inde- from 11am. Penh Orchid is a stylish, con- pendence Hotel has a festive Saffron, 11 Street 278, temporary spot for a Khmer, special. Its Coral Restaurant Tel: 012 247 832 Thai or Chinese meal. One has a Christmas Eve dinner of a new breed of mid-range buffet for US$29 net, including Liquid Flavours local restaurants with an up- a free glass of Kir Royal. On Bearing more than a passing scale feel, the restaurant has New Years Eve, the Camellia similarity to Metro, Pas- a very comprehensive menu, Ballroom will host a gala dinner cal, the popular Quebecois with small dishes in the US$3 buffet with a lucky draw, free proprietor of Flavours to US$4.50 range and large glass of Kir Royal and free soft Restaurant, opened his new dishes averaging US$6 to drink for US$49 net. bar, Liquid, last month. The US$10. There are also many Independence Hotel, Indepen- smooth concrete interior cocktails and coffees on offer, dence Beach, Sihanoukville, provides a touch of class to and out the front is a bakery Tel: 034 934 300.

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12 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 Phnom Penh Life 13 Sevn Year Itch 26 Streetsmart 14 Tim Page 28 Storyboard Cambodian Artists 17 Phnom Penh Life: He’s Behind You storyboard Danny Whitehead has a passion for panto, and plays an integral role in the Phnom Penh Players. Liz Ledden finds out more about the group and why Danny is so enamoured with this satirical form of performing art.

included Sovanna Phum and the Royal University of Performing I love the Arts. In addition to performing, writing and adapting scripts, impermanence of Danny is one of the Players’ five theatre. There’s board members. Sticking to what they know something magical best, the group performs adapta- tions of classics by Shakespeare about live theatre and Oscar Wilde as well as some in that each less mainstream productions. “We try and be eclectic while performance will appealing to a wide audience,” Danny explains. never exist again. They achieve this by produc- ing original takes on familiar ers have never acted before,” material. For example, Danny says Danny. has written a new pantomime Finding a suitable venue version of Hamlet for the group’s can sometimes be a problem, upcoming Christmas perfor- Danny Whitehead due to the lack of a regular, Has written a panto Hamlet mance. He likens the Prince of dedicated space. The group A love of theatre and tional story, such as Cinderella, Denmark to a “Kurt Cobain of a sometimes hires ballrooms in desire to bring the art of the and presenting it in a satirical different generation.” Phnom Penh’s hotels, and for traditional English pantomine manner. It often has social and This year’s Christmas perfor- smaller shows uses the garden (or panto) to city’s residents led political undertones. Although mance will be something new at Talkin’ to a Stranger. Danny Whitehead to join theatre on the surface it may appear for the group. It is the first time group Phnom Penh Players in aimed at children, the underly- they will use a script written A burgeoning arts scene 2000. That and a handy hint from ing humour should appeal more completely from scratch. The future of art and the a friend, who said the group was to an adult audience. performing arts in Phnom Penh an ideal place for a singleton That’s not to say pantos are Becoming a Player looks bright, according to Danny. to meet someone special. This refined. Commonly including Anyone is welcome to join the “A very creative and artistic advice came true for Danny archetypal characters, such as group, says Danny. Actors are group of people have migrated in double measure. “It’s so far a man in drag playing an old recruited via ads in the press to Cambodia, and they’re using resulted in two marriages and woman, the humour is also and online. the country’s stimulus for inspi- two divorces!” he quips. steeped in burlesque. Audience “You need a sense of fun ration,” he says. First involved in amateur the- participation is frequently en- and to be willing to put in According to him, the growing atre while at university, Danny couraged through characters di- hard work,” he explains. Each number of cultural and artistic developed a passion for the art. rectly addressing the crowd. This show takes around three or events held in Phnom Penh is “I love the impermanence creates a familiarity between four months to prepare and a highly positive step for the of theatre,” he states. “There’s actor and audience unusual in rehearse. Some of the pan- development of the country’s something magical about live conventional theatre. tomimes have around thirty arts scene. theatre in that each performance actors and ten crew. Smaller The Tragedy Pantomine of will never exist again.” The Players performances might use three Hamlet – Prince of Denmark will Pantos in particular are his The Phnom Penh Players theatre actors and two crew. be performed on the Chenla Boat love and joy due to their biting group, formed in 1994, is made But the non-matrimonial on Dec. 7 (evening) and Dec. 8 social and political satire. “I love up of an ever-changing group of benefits are many. “Theatre (matinee and evening). Tickets cost it as it has such power,” he says. expats who put on an average of is difficult to get into at home US$10 for adults and US$5 for chil- four productions a year. Aside sometimes,” he says. “It can be dren, reduced price for Cambodians. Phnom Penh Panto from the entertainment value quite cliquey.” For further information on upcom- Outside his native Britain many of the performances, proceeds The group’s willingness to ing performances or to inquire about people may not be familiar with from ticket sales are donated to give newcomers a chance has joining Phnom Penh Players, email pantos, according to Danny. The local performing arts groups and unearthed much acting talent Danny at phnompenhplayers@ form involves taking a tradi- NGOs. In the past these have too. “Some of our best perform- hotmail.com

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 13 storyboard

StartingStreetsmart: just south of Central Market, Street Street 63 heads all the 63 way through an area with some interesting local businesses from beer gardens to aquarium shops, down to the more expat-oriented southern end. Words by Liz Ledden and Mark Jackson.

1) Sorya Centre be worn as long tops. Somewhat 13-61 Street 63 dampening the shopping experi- The blue domed Sorya Centre ence here is the leech-like sales is the place to come for assistant that follows your every shopping in air-conditioned move around the store. comfort, be it for groceries at storyboard Lucky Supermarket, clothing, 4) Aquarium shops electronics, shoes, DVDs, or 86 Street 63 even to have an ice cream. The If looking for a fishy friend this new American chain Swensons is the street to visit. There are ice cream outlet is doing a three shops similarly set up with roaring trade and is crowded fish tanks full of colourful fish, everyday, giving the Lucky open to the street. Fish food is Seven ice cream counter a run for sale with accessories such as for its money. Try Swensons’ fake plants and little porcelain chocolate rainforest flavoured statues to adorn your aquarium, ice cream, one of their most rich the aquariums themselves, and and lush flavours. Also new an abundance of fish. From tiny is a fried chicken shop on the translucent and blue glowing top floor with chicken pieces fish up to some weighty looking and fries if craving a grease carp, there’s a few interesting fix. Other fun pursuits on the tropical fish among the everyday top floor include the roller-rink varieties. Prices are unmarked and the Khmer movie theatre. and you may need to do a bit of There’s also an excellent view market research before making over Phnom Penh’s rooftops a purchase, as one store quoted from the balcony next to the US$20 each for what looked roller-rink, a good spot to suspiciously like large goldfish. impress visitors. Still, in a city of much apartment dwelling and little time 2) Menswear store to commit to looking after a 49EO Street 63 four-legged pet, these stores are This no-name menswear store a good option if looking for an opposite Sorya Centre has clas- 01 animal companion. Sorya sic button-up shirts and trousers Phnom Penh’s biggest mall suitable for casual business 5) H2GO wear. Much more ‘normal’ than Cnr. Street 63 & 184 the women’s wear available on 03 H2GO is a chic Khmer-run the street, some of the clothing restaurant that is popular with here is surprisingly wearable. a young Khmer crowd. The A short sleeved button-up shirt extensive menu has a wide range in pale hues, stripes and checks of Khmer, Thai and Chinese will set you back US$13. On the dishes. The range of Asian break- right is a wall of brand name fast options (US$1.50 to US$3) is sneakers including Diesel – particularly impressive. Lunch though you have to question and dinner includes various the authenticity. Most sell for soups and seafood at reasonable around US$33 a pair. There are prices (US$1.50 to US$8). It is also black and brown leather open from 6am to 10pm and has business shoes. free wireless.

3) Unique Salon 6) Happy Garden Restaurant 52EO Street 63 Street 63 (between Street 214 & Featuring fashion with a distinct- Street 222) ly north Asian vibe, Unique Salon This impressively large beer gar- is not for the demure dresser. den really comes alive at night Short denim shorts, vibrant with multi-coloured lighting and colours and flashy accessories loud professional Khmer sing- make it a somewhat garish selec- ing cum karaoke. Its not a bad tion, though there are few good choice if you want to sample the finds here such as some cute retro atmosphere of Khmers letting print short dresses that could also Unique Flashy clothes and slightly saner accessories their hair down.

14 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 storyboard

7) Psar Silop extensive range of Khmer and Street 63 (Cnr. Street 240) other Asian titles, but has a good This small market is close to the 04 selection of Hollywood movies junction with Sihanouk Blvd. and western music as well. CDs Outside are a few fruit and street range from US$0.50 to US$2.50, food stalls. The inner regions are while the DVDs are US$2 each. turned over to basic household Good value three movies in goods and a number of cheap one DVD sets sell for US$3. The hairdressers. This market has shop stocks new releases with a more local culture than most. similar selection to the Russian

Market, but has aircon. There’s storyboard 8) U-Shop also a range of DVD and CD 163Eo Street 63 cases in different colours for sale, Conveniently open 24 hours, with most at US$5. U-Shop is a good place to pick up a cold beverage or two, and is 11) Bistro Lorenzo handy for food and toiletry items 154 Street 63 too. Several aisles of groceries re- The first stretch of the street veal an extensive range of sweet over Sihanouk Blvd. has a string biscuits, brand name shampoos of bars and restaurants on the and the like, and most impor- left-hand-side. The first is Bistro tantly, a drinks fridge. Beers from Aquarium shops For all your fish related shopping needs Lorenzo, a Filipino-run restau- Leo to Guinness are available, rant that opened in July 2006. plus there’s every kind of juice The aircon interior has a pleasing and soft drink the city has to if somewhat sterile blue and offer and some sweet pre-mixed yellow tiled decor. The menu is a spirits. For a cool drink if in the mix of western and Asian dishes, area, there are a few window including their homemade buko stools with a bench to sit at. pie (US$5), a coconut flan that Filipinos have either as a snack 9) Cindy or a tempting desert. It features 150 Street 63 eight types of Australian steaks A new, French-Khmer run hair (US$8 to US$10), and pasta salon, Cindy is quite a funky (US$2.50 to US$4) is apparently find. With cool white and red the house speciality. Open from décor, contemporary light 8.30am to 11pm. fixtures and a feminine chic vibe, the salon is in a different league 12) Flavours of India from the average local hairdress- 158 Street 63 ing businesses. Some Toni & Guy Next to Lorenzo, Nepalese hair products adorn the shelves, owner Dinesh has run Flavours a good sign that the salon is for over three years, focusing on going for a more upscale image. Nepalese and north Indian dish- A shampoo, cut and blow dry es. The restaurant is elegantly costs US$7 and face massages designed around a central couch, are from US$10 to US$12. The where customers can partake sophisticated looking adjoining in a complimentary hookah. spa has massages and treatments Specialising mainly in chicken ranging up to US$150 dollars. dishes, a whole chicken tandoori costs US$8 (US$4.50/half) and a 10) Sunday Video chicken ‘reshmi’ kebab US$5.50. Cnr Street 63 & Sihanouk Blvd. The thalis are also great value for A large CD, VCD and DVD 12 money, especially if you are not emporium, this stocks an Flavours of India Offers tasty treats from the tandoor sure which dish to choose, with THE WHAT’S ON GUIDE TO PHNOM PENH Right to your front door. Subscribe Now! [email protected] or 012 182 8237 www.asialifecambodia.com

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 15 storyboard

the vegetarian costing US$4 and the non-vegetarian US$5.

13) India Kitchen 162 Street 63 A few doors along from Flavours of India is this simple, small air-conditioned North Indian restaurant. It has a compact menu including vegetable thali for US$4. Opening at 9am, the relatively late breakfast includes masala omelette with paratha (US$2.50).

14) Galaxy Pub 170E0 Street 63 storyboard Next door this simple one-room bar has been open for a couple of years now. Although it doesn’t serve food, the Khmer staff are happy for you to bring some food over from one of the many neighbouring restaurants. With free pool table and internet, it’s best to arrive before 7pm when 16 the draught Tiger is US$1. The Friendly Mart A convenient one-stop shop bar doesn’t open until 3pm. puter accessories, from a US$3.50 to 8pm except Mondays (2pm to have a unique understanding of USB fan to a sleek Vaio brand 7.30pm) has body massages start- technology and a strong commit- 15) Green Mango mouse (US$10). A wireless router ing at US$16 and facials from ment to service. 170 Street 63 is US$55, while a wireless access US$20. The spa has a very relax- The last building in the row is point is US$40. Webcams are ing ambience and should have 21) Kurata Pepper also the most famous. Tom’s from US$15 to US$20. This is also its jacuzzi up and running by the 206E Street 63 Bar was one of the oldest expat a good place to come for mouse time this magazine hits the street. Further along the street and on drinking haunts in Phnom Penh. pads of different kinds, such as The Tea Club itself is an indoor the other side to Conical Hat, Now the bar has just undergone their glass mouse pad for US$4. aircon restaurant serving Chinese Kurata Pepper is possibly the its second or third transforma- and Malay food, around the back most intriguing shop on the tion, since Tom sadly passed 19) Tea Club & Souche Spa of the Spa. street. This Japanese-run compa- away. The latest owner took over 199 Street 63 ny has grown organic black pep- the reins in November, promis- Possibly only in Phnom Penh 20) Conical Hat per at the foot of the Cardamon ing to serve a mix of Khmer could you have a budget outdoor 209 Street 63 Mountains since 1997. The small and western cuisine. Open from pho restaurant combined with a Next to the Tea Club, Conical shop sells the pepper in 50g bags 7.30am to midnight, the décor is luxury indoor spa. The outdoor Hat is one of the leading soft- for US$3.50 as well as pepper perhaps appropriately green. restaurant, open from 6am to ware companies in Cambodia. mills, including a sophisticated 10.30am and 3.30pm to 9.30pm, Managed by four experienced automatic grinder for US$15. 16) Friendly Mart serves both chicken and beef ren- expats, with 21 local employ- There is also a small room where 157 Street 63 ditions of the Vietnamese noodle ees, the company specialises you can see women sieving the Just across the road is one of the soup for 5,500 riel. Indoors the in providing highly localised peppercorns. Open from 8am to town’s inconveniently scarce luxury Souche Spa, open 9.30am business solutions. It claims to 7pm, closed Wednesdays. convenience stores. Friendly has a reasonable selection of groceries and toiletries as well as a good stock of wine. It’s open from 8am to midnight, every day of the year.

17) Boat Noodle I Street 63 & Cnr. Street 288 This simple Khmer diner has nowhere near as much charm as its sister restaurant on Street 294. However, it has the same mix of Thai and Khmer dishes at extremely friendly prices, ranging from 3,000 riel to 12,000 riel. There’s also a barbecue with chicken wings for 2,000 riel and legs for 4,000 riel.

18) Pacific Systems 176 Street 63 While known as a computer repair centre, Pacific Systems sells print- 21 ers, computers and general com- Kurata Pepper Stocks nicely packaged Kampot pepper and great grinders

16 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 storyboard storyboard

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 17 Are Cambodia’s artists ready to go it alone? Taking a quick scan of the numerous brightly coloured paintings of Angkor and of Khmer women holding vases along the streets outside the National Museum, it is hard to imagine the visual art of Cambodia to be anything more than kitsch. However, for a country its size, Cambodia is remarkably cognisant of the visual arts. This is especially evident in the younger generation of Cambodian visual artists. While the country’s intellectual and artistic population was decimated by the Khmer Rouge and subsequent years of civil unrest, this new generation is forward thinking. At one time all visual arts events and collaborations had to be entirely coordinated by expats, today more and more artists are finding ways to support themselves. Some are creating collectives and others are using resources available to their own ends. Can young Cambodian visual artists finally navigate and create on their own? Words by Charis Shafer.

Vollak Kong speaks slowly and Khmer aesthetics. They considered methodically. Surrounded by foreigners the zenith Angkor and everything else at the FCC, he seems out of his comfort as an afterthought. Vollak Kong does zone, but ventures forward. “I don’t want nothing to dispute the glory of Angkor. to look back,” says the Khmer art cura- Everything that happened in the past tor. “I want to see in the present and be is good, he says, but the past gives making and thinking in the future.” He little inspiration on which to grow in is talking about the tendency of Cam- the future. Carvings of stolid Apsaras bodian art teachers and artists to copy and bas-reliefs of the Ramayana styles and ideas of the past. It is a habit epic hardly reflect the nuances of the that dates back to the French period. mechanised and high-speed life of Cambodia’s former colonial rulers young Cambodians. had a long-established perception of

18 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 #12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 19 cover story

I enjoy the boom we see here recently, but it is not leading to higher salaries for artists.

a place to meet. She also offers her sugges- tions and criticism. “These guys share their artwork and the process of creating,” Linda says. What is different about this way of learning is that there is no teacher to copy. There is no mimicry, but rather a search for individuality. This cover story contravenes customary educational models in Cambodia. Stiev Selapak’s solution to the ever-press- ing problem of capital is to reinvest in the group. Fifty per cent of the proceeds of any artwork sold by a group member goes back into the organisation.

Loving Kindness at the Meta House “The students were like that,” Lydia Paru- Nico Mesterham Gives Cambodian artists a free rein at Meta House sol puts her hands up to her face in mock Cambodia’s young art rebels going. “We don’t have a culture of youth amazement. She is referring to the reactions “I started from nothing,” says Vuth Lyno, coming together,” he says. of students at a recent video art workshop who looks a bit like a Khmer Buddy Holly. Rattana recalls that no one felt they would where a Thai video artist presented her His original background was in IT. Like a continue in their arts if they did not meet work and conducted training for fine arts lot of young Cambodians he was searching as a group. They formed Stiev Selapak or students. For Lydia it is “the collaborations for the major that would bring the most the art rebels. This twenty-odd group of where people are leaning from each other” lucrative return on his parent’s investment. young artists specialising in multiple media, that gets her excited about her work at He discovered photography early on photography and sculpture wanted to create Meta House. through collecting photos and “snapping a group independent from any affiliation Meta means loving kindness in Khmer, photos around my head…” He met some or other art centre in Cambodia. According and the space is one dedicated to arts and artists at a workshop he took at Stéphane to Rattana he and the other members of the film exhibitions and workshops, founded Janin’s now sadly closed Popil Gallery. group, “want to sustain the contemporary by Nico Mesterharm. When I talk to him This workshop turned him towards fine arts in Cambodia.” the German documentary filmmaker is art photography. He began to read more These fresh faces in arty business casual hunched over smoking and chatting with photography books and to fine tune his attire seem unlikely candidates for art revo- Cambodian artist Sothy Chhim about the photographic skills. lutionaries. Their work, however, is unlike latter’s upcoming exhibition. Nico is quick At the workshop the young Khmer artists any yet seen in Cambodia. The group’s to make it clear that Sothy will have a free from disparate academic backgrounds from Canadian Khmer facilitator is Linda Saphan. rein. “Whatever you come up with we will law to fine arts decided they did not want She has helped the group by promoting create it in reality,” he says. He turns to me their frail community to end. Rattana Vandy them on her website and offering the group and emphasises that this is the philosophy also a member of Stéphane Janin’s workshop behind Meta House. “We try to create a remembers his desire to keep the community dialogue,” he says.

Making a living from art A rarity among Cambodian artists, according to Nico, Sothy Chhim is “one of the few who knows how to sell his works.” Works based on Ramayana pictures and other traditional themes, he finds are the pieces that sell best. However, his show at Meta House will be different from his previous work. It will be more abstract, he promises. He says he would like to do more of this type of work, but the problem is in trying to sell such experimental pieces. Sothy is fortunate to be able to sell his work and survive as an artist. This is primarily because of his language skills. Older artists, he says, can speak Russian, Vietnamese, Chinese, but the younger ones speak English and French. Sothy speaks French and Eng- lish. These are the languages now required to sell to the foreign art buyers. Nico’s voice, speculating on the art market in Cambodia, resonates. “I enjoy the boom

Stiev Selapak Cambodia’s art rebels 20 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 cover story

People passing by just stared and asked, ‘Why? What is it?’ We explained it is a form of art – but they didn’t get it! storyboard cover story stared and asked, ‘Why? What is it?’ We explained it is a form of art – but they didn’t get it!” To bring works like this to the international stage, Rattana thinks one of the most useful tools is the Internet. He reports that many Cambodian artists have been trying to network and build themselves up in order to reach “the international stage.” Rattana says that many ideas have sprung from interchanges like Stiev Selapak. One of these was their recent group show at Gaso- lina, but there are other ideas in the works as well. “Up to now I don’t see contemporary art using the public space,” he says. He has plans of asking building owners to lend their outdoor spaces for a one-day temporary exhibition or riding bikes around the Tonle Sap and giving impromptu arts workshops for the children living there.

Artists playing catch-up “It is very tempting to say an art community exists,” Linda Saphan says of the recent movement in the arts over the past couple years. In reality, the ‘scene’ as defined as an environment or background is difficult to impose on a country like Cambodia, given its recent past. “They have potential,” Linda emphasises. Dana Langlois agrees. “They have the talent, they have the will…it’s all there.” Like ingénues in so many fields, the young artists of Cambodia are rushing to play catch up. Heang Thy already had a de-

Linda Saphan Promotes young Khmer artists on her website we see here recently, but it is not leading to she is clear. “Honestly, no. Some are, the higher salaries for artists,” he says. “This is majority? No,” she replies. for sure the next level.” Education, experience and exposure are Dana Langlois also knows about the exi- what are required. “The greatest potential gencies of being an artist. for Cambodian artists is to be seen, exhibited “The simple truth is they need money to and sold abroad,” she says. live,” says the owner of Java Café, perhaps the longest running coffee shop and art space Reaching an international audience in Phnom Penh. Her recent Sala Arts project According to Rattana Vandy, when Cambo- held workshops and exhibitions for Khmer dian works are exhibited they tend to make artists. As Dana sees it, proponents of the a splash. visual arts in Cambodia face an uphill battle. “Many are surprised to see the work from “Traditional arts are very well appreci- Cambodia. They have never seen Cambodia ated,” she points out, and subsequently are before,” he says, referring to a particular relatively well funded. Visual arts survive exhibition at the Khmer Art Academy where primarily through the generosity of a few there was an installation of a hammock individuals. hanging in the tree. When asked if artists are ready to deal “Both Cambodians and foreigners were with buyers and collectors by themselves, surprised,” he says. “People passing by just Chhim Sothy Published in Asian Art News

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 21 cover story

Everybody is poor. Can they eat a painting? They think about eating first before painting.

gree from the Institute of Foreign Languages at the Royal University of Phnom Penh in English, but, as her ultimate goal is to become a photographer, she enrolled in the Department of Media and Communications at the same university. Between her studies and her part-time job, she managed to at- cover story tend Stéphane Janin’s workshop for young photographers and to attend workshops at the Angkor Photo Festival. When asked if she is busy as she rushes in between school, her part-time job and her extracurricular activities, she responds breathlessly “a little.” Pursuing her chosen career path as a journalistic and artistic photographer is a challenge. “In Cambodia, we have very few photographers, especially women,” she says. “The most important problem is money,” she adds. But she is optimistic and hardly greedy. “As long as you have one camera. It Heang Thy is enough.” Neither does she envy paint- One of the few professional female photographers in Cambodia ers. “They spend a lot of effort to finish one Her first show was a nerve-racking “ she says before adding that some people work,” she says. Despite their hard work, experience. “I didn’t know anything, like a aren’t so lucky with a shake of her head. “the income from that it is still low, it is re- girl from the village,” she says. Dana was According to her artists in Cambodia are ally difficult to be famous,” she laments. instrumental in finding her customers and in neither accepted nor understood. “I want Renowned Cambodian artists are still arranging for her to meet Nico at the Meta the Cambodian to understand what an artist so rare and under-publicised that even art House, who set her up with an artist’s resi- is,” she says. The exigencies of the average students find it difficult to name well-known dency there. Tevy says that if it were not for Cambodian do not include the fine arts. Khmer artists. Heang is clear about how art Nico, she might not have been able to stay in “They haven’t money to buy a painting,” students can progress, though. “We need to Phnom Penh. she explains. “Everybody is poor. Can they spend so much time to improve our ability This kind of support is not something to eat a painting? They think about eating first in this field,” she says. which Tevy is accustomed. She was forced before painting.” She also believes that it will take both a to attend art school in secret. Later, when her Not only is the money a struggle, as many concerted effort by Khmer artists and coop- parents insisted she stay indoors, she took subjects are taboo, she says. She brings up a eration from international artists to boost to painting at home and getting out to go to recent show of hers at Salt Lounge deal- artistic efforts. “If you don’t have help from school when she could. She credits her cur- ing with homosexuality in Cambodia that a famous photographer – both national and rent success to chance. “I’m lucky, very lucky, featured men in various passionate embraces international you maybe don’t have a chance with other men. to be involved in that field,” she says. “I didn’t show my family,” she laughs. “Maybe they’d say I’m crazy.” But her insidi- Being a female artist ous energy is intoxicating, “I don’t care if As a female in a male dominated field, Heang everybody accepts or not.” feels extra pressure. She has seen women fall by the wayside because of other pressures. Modern art is old “Taking photos is time-consuming if you Sokorn Leang has a similar contagious don’t have time, you can’t do it,” she says. energy as he describes his own struggle for There are also long-held beliefs about what a an artistic voice. woman should be permitted to do and what “I learned a lot at school, but one day not to do that are a challenge to contravene. I want to be my own, but I cannot,” he “In Cambodian culture we cannot go far says referred to the confining nature of the from our home. We can get work only in typical fine arts education. He is constantly Phnom Penh.” She admits that she is doing searching for ways to incorporate pieces of work that many consider, “a little bit danger- his own history into his artwork. As a child ous for a lady.” he once tried to use a sewing machine left Ouer Sokuntevy, known as Tevy, also by a relative at his house. He accidentally understands about the challenges faced by pierced his finger with the needle and bleed young Khmer female artists. Battambang- everywhere. Now he incorporates sewing born and educated at Phare Ponleu Seplak, throughout his work. Tevy struggled to continue her studies. Sokorn was one of the first Khmer art- When she met Dana Langlois, who invited ists shown at Java Café. One of his more her to have an exhibition at Java, it was a controversial works featured beer girls way to pursue her dream. Vann Nath Artist who survived Tuol Sleng with an Apsara background, likening the

22 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 cover story

If you don’t have Art For Art’s Sake help from a famous photographer – both national and international you maybe don’t have a chance to be involved in storyboard cover story that field.

Art Café 84 Street 108 Chhim Sothy www.artcafe-phnom-penh.com Established artist ace Art sp Born 1969 in Kandal Province, Chhim This space seeks toT providehe austere a centre Sothy studied at the Royal University of for social dialogue. Fine Arts, where he graduated in 1995. interior provides an ideal location Chhim Sothy’s style reflects his tradi- for performances and exhibitions by tional training, though his later works in- Cambodian & international artists.Music at corporate more contemporary elements. Recent exhibitions included, His works can be found in Cambodian, an Exhibition, a documentation of the French and Japanese collections. He Exposition Universelle in Paris 1889. was chosen by Asean in 2000 to repre- sent Cambodia and his work has been published in Sokorn Leang Chhin Taingchhea Asian Art News. His next Incorporates sewing in his work up & coming artist exhibition will be at Meta House. mythical epitome of Khmer womanhood This quiet and talented mixed-media to modern day barmaids. This work elic- artist is fascinated by spiders. “When ited varied responses. their webs are damaged, they always To Sokorn the main issue in arts today is fix them because lives depends on autonomy. “How to get our own independent it.” This was the focus of his recent art,” he says. Even for students trying to ex- exhibition at Sala Arts. plore different modes of expression, it is dif- with other members of SHtieve also, Selapak, along ficult because access to information is limited. participated in the exhibition He laments that paintings today can be in the Thoamada (Khmer for unusual).Men His modern style, “but modern is old,” he says. panels depicting an old man’s morning Even these “modern” ideas are ideas are prayers show off the technical skills from mid-century France. What is required, he acquired while studying for a BA in he advises throwing up his hands dramati- painting at the Royal University of Fine cally, is artists who are willing to work not Arts. His new works also reveal a depth one day or two days, but ten years perfecting and refreshing awareness. their art. He draws a parallel between artists finding their style and Buddha’s search for enlightenment. He admits, that like Buddha, Doung Saree suffering is inevitable, as should be persever- Established artist ance. Artists have to try and fail and get up Born in Phnom Penh in 1957, following and try again until they have a strong sense the war she worked for the Ministry of themselves. This self-awareness is what he of Tourism and the National Museum feels separates artists from the masses. helping to conserve archeologically “I know me more than other people important temples. In 1983 she know me,” he waxes philosophically. became professor of sculpture at the “When the work is finished. The work can Royal University of Fine Arts in Phnom tell,” he says echoing an artist’s mantra that Penh. She paints in watercolour and artworks should speak for themselves. “The deileng, or coloured earth. In 2000 end will tell us what this is,” he motions Reyum Gallery, published a Khmer towards his heart. alphabet book using Saree’s fanciful and brightly-coloured illustrations. #12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 23 cover story French Cultural Centre 218 Street 184 FCC www.ccf-cambodge.org Java Sisowath Quay Open from 7am to 7pm 56 Sihanouk Blvd. www.fcccambodia.com Art space www.javaarts.com ace Art sp Phnom Penh’s long-standing exhibition Art space Since opening its doors in 1993, the space and centre for various cultural This Phnom Penh gallery had its first FCC Phnom Penh has served a wide and artistic activities. Recent visual arts show in 2000. The renowned café and range of journalists, photographers, exhibits include the French Khmer artist art space has put on the debut show diplomats, movie stars and intrepid of numerous Cambodian artists. Denis Min-Kim and Sou Mey, a twenty- A host world travellers. It has also hosted nu- three-year-old Cambodian artist originally to many international and local artists merous exhibitions. Recent exhibitions from Svay Rieng. The CCF also hosted alike, this space most recently featured have included the photographs of Doris the presentation of fourteen young Khmer the work of Cambodian artists Svay Ken Boettcher and Jim Mizerski. photographers in the 14 + 1 exhibit. and Mexican artist Javier Arean.

Mak Remissa cover story Kong Vollak Established artist - up & coming artist Born in 1970, Remissa found photogra Now supporting himself as a teacher Leng Sokorn ollak was phy after enrolling at the Royal University of drawing and art history, V Established artist of Fine Arts to study painting. In 1993, selected to curate a Cambodian art Born in 1974 in Prey Veng province and the French association Arts Cambodge exhibition at Meta House in 2008, which educated at the Royal University of Fine offered photography classes to students will be put on display in other Mekong Arts Sokorn had an exhibtion at Java Café and this short training session would countries as well. He was a member of & Gallery entitled “Apey Mutrak” in April change his life. While most in Cambodia the four-person international art team, 2002. From there he has exhibited region - at the time viewed photography as a which collaborated on the exhibtion at ally and globally including at the Galleri blue-collar position with artistic potential,- Hotel de la Paix, Lines and Lost Lines. Lista Fyr in Norway and at the Art-2 Remissa was intrigued. After he graduat Gallery in Singapore. One of his most ed he began working at the then French- recent projects in Cambodia was the Rub - language newspaper Le MekongRemissa working works bish Project launched with Fleur Smith. Mark Meta House as a photojournalist. Together they led a network of volunteers 6 Street 264 as a freelance photographer and is one of www.meta-house.com working in the arts and entertainment Cambodia’s leading photographers. He industry to raise the profile of environ Art space - has had exhibitions internationally at the- Meta House has established itself as a mental issues in Cambodia. He will have National Gallery in Canada and in Provi meeting place for art and film lovers. It an exhibition at Java in the coming year. dence in the United States in addition to also strives to be a place of exchange numerous exhibitions in Cambodia. between Cambodian-based artists, Cambodian artists living overseas and their international counterparts. Meta House endeavours to foster New Art Gallery an environment of self-expression Street 9 (next to Psar Kapko) and critical thinking to promote art Art space A recent arrival on the gallery scene, this awareness. Recent exhibits include - space also doubles as a frame shop, how the Khmer painter Oeur Sokuntevy and - Khmer comic artist Em Satya. ever it has hosted some interesting exhibi tions. Among these have been Portraits des Femmes featuring Khmer Canadian artist Linda Saphan, Chinese Canadian Oeur Sokuntevy video artist Mo Ling Chui and Chinese up & coming artist painter Qudy Xu, and the show Chess by The 23-year-old independent artist is Khmer photography Vandy Rattana. determined to leave her mark on the Cambodian art scene. Inspired by the natural world as a child, she pursued her passion through art. Piteak Phare Ponleu She studied at S Established artist elapak in B where she practised obligatoryattambang art tech - The street artist known as Piteak holds a niques. Later she veered from this tradi- diploma from the Royal University of Fine tional path and began to do work which Arts. In 1994 he became a priest to return was both incendiary and whimsical. Her a good deed to his parents, but left in first exhibition of art on canvas coated 1997 to begin painting. He also painted in coffee beans was shown at Java and sketched classical drawings of the Arts. Her later work from an exhibtion Ramayana story for former King Noro- at Meta House proved more personal dom Sihanouk. He has had recent exhibi- and intimate depicting scenes from her tions at the Art House and Sala Arts. childhood in Battambang.

24 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 cover story Reyum RUFA 47 Street 178 (Across from the Returning Artists Art sp National Museum of Cambodia) ace Like in many disciplines in Cambo- The Royal University of Fine Arts (RUF www.reyum.org was founded in 1918. Forced to close A) dia, artistic development is aided by Art sp ace from 1975 to 1979 it reopened in May returning artists. Some of these include Reyum is a non-profit, non-governmen- 1980. By 1988, its current five faculties – American-trained artists like Sopheap tal organisation founded in December A in paint- architecture and urbanism, archaeology, Pich. Sopheap holds an MF 1998. It provides a forum for research, fine arts, choreography and music – were ing from the School of the Art Institute preservation, and promotion of tradition- established. It became the Royal Univer of Chicago and has had exhibitions al and contemporary Cambodian arts sity of Fine Arts in 1996. T around the U.S. and Cambodia. Chath and culture. All activities presented by - around 800 students. RUFoday, it serves storyboard Piersath is another one of these artists. Reyum are free and open to the public. cover story striving to teach CambodianA is aesthetics continually He crossed the Thai-Cambodian border A recent exhibit in January entitled in 1979 at the end of the Khmer Rouge “Creative Cambodia” featured recycling and the importance of conservation as with members of his family on the way to everyday materials. well as fostering the evolution of Khmer culture. Its main objective is to train a Aranyaprathet Refugee Camp. Although will feature recent graduatesThe next from exhibition the not trained as an artist, his work has Reyum Art School. younger generation of artists, architects, been exhibited around the U.S. and and archaeologists capable of proac Asia. A recent exhibit of his at Java Café tive participation in the preservation - addressed those living with HIV and and development of various forms and AIDS. Another artists who has returned expressions of Khmer culture. Many of to Cambodia is Francophone Linda Cambodia’s artists have gone to RUF Saphan. The French Canadian Khmer A. artist holds a PhD from the Sorbonne in Paris and has exhibited internationally as well as in Cambodia. Likewise, classi- Two Fish Gallery Café cally trained French Khmer painter Denis 9 Street 278 Min Kim has had several well-attended www.twofish-gallerycafe.com Art sp exhibits in Cambodia and elsewhere. ace Run by Taiwanese artist David Huang (pictured left), Two Fish opened in Sep- tember 2006 and provides an exhibition space for Asian art in a café setting. It shows art produced by artists living Svay Ken or working in Asia. Recent exhibitions Established artist include a group show of 16 artists to Born in Takeo Province in 1955, Svay benefit the NG O, S Ken came to Phnom Penh in search of FODA. work, and became a waiter at the Hotel Le Royal. Though he spent the Khmer Vandy Rattana Rouge years back in his home province, up & coming artist he later returned to Phnom Penh and Young Cambodian photographer and resumed working at the hotel until he re- law student, V tired in 1994. During the later years of his dent of the artsandy collective Rattana is the presi- career, he began drawing and painting His photos, at once raw and archival, Stiev Selapak. the quotidian objects around him. Using have been exhibited at Noorderlicht this same distinctive style he also docu- Photofest in the Netherlands. As the ments his memories of Cambodia during leader of Stiev Selapak, he believes times of peace and war alike. Svay Ken that networking and collaborations are has shown regionally since 1994 and essential for contemporary Cambo- was the Cambodian entry in the first dian artists. His recent work at a video Fukuoka Triennial in Tokyo in 1999. workshop hosted at Meta House was a half-hour short film about his travels around Phnom Penh from the point of view of his own bicycle.

Vann Nath Established artist Trained through an apprenticeship with a local sign painter, before the war, Vann Nath painted movie posters and uol portraits. In 1978 he was sent to T Sleng Prison, where he was tortured and nearly killed until his talents were discovered. One of only seven survivors Prison of Toul Sleng, Vann Nath wrote A Rouge’s Portrait: One Year in the Khmer S-21, published in 1998 by White Lotus Press. A recent exhibition of his work was at the Bophana Multimedia Centre.

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 25 cover story The Seven-Year Itch Java Café & Gallery has just turned seven years old. Owner Dana Langois talks to Charis Shafer about the past, present and future of the capital’s best-known gallery space. cover story

Dana Langlois Has been supporting Cambodian artists for the past seven years “It was one of those dreams you each one. The majority of these were debut Sala Arts Space have,” says Dana Langlois. “I loved coffee shows for her artists. Away from Java, Dana launched the Sala and I loved art.” She is talking about the cre- Despite the sheer number of exhibitions Arts project last November. Her aim was for ation seven years ago of her renowned coffee Dana finds it easy to describe some of the Sala to provide the space for artists to simply shop and art space, Java Café & Gallery. more memorable works that have passed be themselves. For her, the point is not Volunteer work brought the American through her space over the last seven years. what younger artists do, but to give them to Cambodia and despite her background One was a video installation projected space in which to do it. “Sitting around, just in fine art photography, she found herself against a wall parallel to Java. Both moto being artists in their own way,” is how she doing public relations work. After a short drivers and gallery goers could enjoy the describes it. time she fell in love with Cambodia, but was public art. Unfortunately the project proved less still eager to use her fine arts background. So She also highlights a lively discussion, at a successful commercially than artistically she decided to open Java Café as a space for workshop hosted by Java, between Cambo- and Dana closed the riverside gallery earlier exhibitions and exchanges. Before Java, the dian and Vietnamese artists. The roundtable this year. only places to have exhibitions were Reyum discussion topics included censorship, and This does not mean that she has deserted and the French Cultural Centre, she says. She other pertinent artistic issues. the principles that led to her setting up Sala. opened with a Thai artist in September 2000. A third exhibition close to her heart was “I took part of what Sala was and brought Finding artists at that time was relatively her collaboration with Khmer artist Svey it back to Java,” she explains. easy, according to Dana. Ken. They developed a theme together and Her role, as she sees it, is to provide facili- “Just because it was one of the only the show was a great success. “I am quite tation and support to artists. “I will be there places, a lot of them came to me,” she says. proud of that as an exhibition,” she admits. to show … to promote them,” she explains. She also invited artists she met outside She is also pleased with a more recent Phnom Penh and abroad to do exhibitions initiative – the Creations show. This hap- Social and Societal Art at Java Café. It became known, Dana recalls, pening combined art, fashion and food in a For Dana the artists that she nurtures have a “because of the art.” festive evening coinciding with the launch of great role to play in society. “I truly believe the new Java menu created by Swedish chef, artists have a responsibility to society,” she Java Memories Nicklas Olssen. What excited her about this says. “They need to be society’s soul.” Today, there have been so many exhibitions event? “It is this idea that all things can be However she is quick to differentiate that she needs to consult her records to recall art,” she explains. between art that is the pulse of society and

26 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 cover story storyboard cover story

Keeda Oikawa The Japanese artist made a live paintng at Java in 2005 Meas Sokhorn His 2006 debut exhibition featured sculpted rattan lamps More immediately she is working, in col- Her longer-term goal is to involve the I truly believe artists laboration with the Art House in Siem Reap larger arts community. She will assume and Mexican Artist Javier Arean, to develop more gallery services in exchange for a have a responsibility to self-portraits of both young and old profes- commission. Though this puts her in the sional Khmer artists. role of an art dealer, Dana resists the term. society. They need to be “I try to do different things,” she says. But “Art dealer sounds too profiteering… for Dana just standing out from the crowd curator is too extreme,” she says searching society’s soul. has never been enough. She adds that she is for the proper title. After a moment she always striving to create something “stimu- settles on it, “someone who just makes that which is merely decorative. Most of lating and meaningful.” things happen.” the work produced for current commercial consumption in Cambodia she sees as lacking in something. The profusion of Angkor Wat and Apsara paintings along the streets around the Royal University of Fine Arts she cites as an example of this mere mimicry.

Preserving the Past and the Future Despite her many years of involvement in the Cambodian arts scene, Dana has no intention of dwelling in the past. Instead she looks very much to the future. The Java Arts Office will be part of that future. A selection of artists that Dana has worked with in the past as well as future artists, it will be held in a centralised location for people to easily access Cambodian artists. A small gallery space will display works. There will also be portfolios of Cambodian artists for potential collectors or interested parties to browse. The office will also hold an arts library. Its tomes will be an invaluable resource for young artists and students of the arts in a country where intellectual property is scarce. Dana plans to take on interns to help with the curation of future shows. In ad- diton she will work with selected artists to help improve their portfolios and presentation skills. Video wall This image by Lisa Miller was projected on a wall outside Java Café in 2003

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 27 storyboard Requiem: Tim Page Immortalised by Dennis Hopper’s character in the movie Apocalypse Now and one of the main characters in Michael Herr’s Dispatches, a highly acclaimed book about the American War in Vietnam and Cambodia, Tim Page remains one of the best-known war photographers of the 60s and 70s. AsiaLIFE caught up with him on a recent trip to Vietnam. Words by Nick Ross.

Leaving England in 1962 he drove overland to Indochina through Europe, Pakistan, storyboard India, Burma, Thailand and Laos. Broke, accident found him work as a press photographer in Laos stringing for UPI and AFP. His exclusive photographs of an attempted coup d’etat in Laos in 1965 for UPI got him a staff position in the Saigon bureau of the news agency. Celebrated for his photography work in Vietnam and Cambodia during the 1960s, and for his coverage of the Six- Day War in the Middle East in 1967, he was wounded in action three times and in April 1969 took a huge piece of shrapnel to the head. Declared dead on arrival in hospital, he miraculously recovered and spent the next year in the U.S. undergoing extensive neuro-surgery. In the 1970s Page worked as a freelance photographer for music magazines like Crawdaddy and Rolling Stone, and during the 80s and 90s returned to Indochina a number of times both for work and to Tim Page discover the fate of his best friend, room- One of the most well-known war photographers of the 60s and 70s mate and fellow photo-journalist Sean Tim is at ease. Dressed in jeans and Flynn (son of the famous Hollywood actor t-shirt with a blue, checked Khmer scarf What really turns Errol Flynn), who had been captured in draped around his neck, in one hand he Cambodia in 1970. The search came to an holds a glass of German weissbeer and in me on is when I have end in 1990 following the discovery of what the other he stabs the air with his cigarette appeared to be the grave of Flynn and his as he makes a point. It’s a Sunday afternoon, an assignment. I shoot colleague Dana Stone in the Cambodian the beers have been flowing, but despite village of Bei Met. what should be a day off he has two cam- anyway, but the thought eras with him. that anyone thinks I’m Immortalised “What really turns me on is when I have Tim’s talk of the past teems with all sorts of an assignment,” he says. “I shoot anyway, good enough to photo Hunter S. Thompson-like tales. Famously but the thought that anyone thinks I’m good depicted in film by Dennis Hopper in enough to photo something, whatever it is, something, whatever it is, Apocalypse Now as the drugged-up hippy makes me really ... pumped.” photojournalist in Colonel Kurtz’s com- Suddenly he stops. He’s seen something. makes me really ramped pound, according to Tim, the character was He gets up and limps over to a stack of and pumped. really a “composite of many people”. glasses on a waiter’s trolley and takes a “I was in a private cinema with [Francis couple of shots. For this one he’s using his Ford] Coppola, Michael Herr, George Lucas Canon EOS 5D, a high-end digital SLR that Timor for the Red Cross. Aside from vari- and Stephen Spielberg,” he says. “We had according to him takes some of the best ous assignments, the compilation of photo these two six-hour movies and Coppola black and white shots around. essays and documentary work – including a was looking for a way to bridge them He’s been using digital cameras for four documentary early next year in Papua New together. Dennis Hopper comes onto screen years now, but despite this remains ambiva- Guinea – he is a professor of photojournal- and Herr says, ‘Tim, you’ve just made it lent about them. ism at Australia’s Griffith University and is into the movies.’” “When I go out and shoot on film I take a due to finish his PhD. in November. The comparison with Dennis Hopper’s lot more trouble,” he explains. “I use good character stuck and on Michael Herr’s film and know what comes out of my cam- The lure of the east 1977 publication of the highly acclaimed era. Shots on film can last 50 years whereas Time may have changed the focus and Dispatches, of which Tim was one of the of all the digital shots I took three of four location of his work, but he still feels a big main characters, Tim’s place in history was years ago, only 15 percent of them are left.” affinity for this part of Southeast Asia. etched in stone. Now based in Brisbane, Australia, the “There is something about Indochina that Tim, though, is brutally honest. “Every English-born, award-winning photographer has a lure,” he says. “It’s an obsession, an photographer is no more than a mercenary,” had just finished a nine-day shoot in East addiction.” he says.

28 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 © 2007 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All rights reserved. Sheraton is the registered trademark of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. its or Worldwide,Inc., Resorts & Hotels Starwood of trademark registered the is Sheraton reserved. rights All Worldwide,Inc. Resorts & Hotels Starwood 2007 ©

cover story

Every photographer is no more than a mercenary.

Now in his 60s he still maintains an intense passion for his work and gets pleasure seeing his “old images get accolades.” “Photojournalism is about being memorable and awakening ideas in people,” he explains. “Our job is to do that and when we can’t get published it can be very deflating.” To learn more about Tim Page or to see his images online go to www. timpageimage.com.au. His exhibition, Requiem, a tribute to the photographers who died in the wars in Indochina, is on permanent display at the War Remnants Museum, 28 Vo Van Tan, D3, Ho Chi Minh City. The book version is presently being reprinted.

Vietnam, 1965 Evacuating the wonded in Tam Ky

Cuba, 1989 Red Corvette in the Plaza Revolucion, Havana

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Sri Lanka, 2000 Girl at dusk in Anuradhapura

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 29 Saigon 30 Motorbike Diariesgetaways 34 Independence Hotel 33 Getaway Guide 35 Getaways Saigon Sojourn Ho Chi Minh City may not be as developed as Bangkok, but it’s home to some vibrant nightlife, decent shopping and excellent cuisine. Even better, it is only 250km from Phnom Penh. Words by John O’Connor. Photos by Peter Stuckings getaways restaurants

Life’s a blur: Notre Dame Cathedral and Diamond Plaza Multicultural: Saigon’s nightlife is becoming increasingly Cosmopolitan Considering both cities’ Market (Le Thanh Ton, D1) and of transition and delicate balance In Saigon the cafés come in all mutual colonial history, Phnom the Jade Emerald Pagoda (Mai between old and new makes shapes and sizes – from street- Penh and Ho Chi Minh City Thi Luu, D1) get a look in. The interesting viewing. side joints with plastic tables could not be more different. Reunification Palace (Nam Ky Head across the adjacent and 12-inch-high stools to large, True, much of the architecture Khoi Nghia and Le Duan, D1), Nguyen Hue to Huynh Thuc brash aircon coffee shops that are left behind by the French may the symbol of the Communist Khang and Ton That Thiep and the final say in kitsch. though it have its similarities, but beyond victory on Apr. 30 1975, is you find yourself in the former is in these places that business these aesthetics and the hordes perhaps a touch run down these banking district. Once dominated is done, contacts are made and of motorbikes, the connection days, but the War Remnants by Indian bankers from French- WiFi comes free. between the two cities ends. Museum (28 Vo Van Tan, D3) run Pondicherry, except for three For the ultimate in Vietnamese While life in Phnom Penh is remains as gruesome as ever and Hindu temples in the vicinity and café culture, head to Windows 4 slow, here everything is fast, en- acts as a fitting reminder of the the building housing The Temple (12 Alexandre de Rhodes, D1). A ergy buzzes in the air, the pace of atrocities of the past. Club and Fanny Ice Cream, few stone’s throw away from the Re- change is inexorable, the traffic These are just a few of the traces remain of the past. unification Palace, this is a place is terrible and dog quite literally numerous attractions scattered Instead, Ton That Thiep is for makers and shakers and eats dog; hardly a place for a around the city, great if you’re in becoming increasingly gentri- some quite beautifully kitsch relaxing weekend away. search of some culture. However, fied, while a street down, Huynh design. Everything is flash and But if you are travelling east for the Saigon of the 21st century, Thuc Khang is home to electron- new, and even the urinals are and crave the sights, sounds avoid the tourist trail and do it ics shop after electronics shop, decked out with personal TVs. and smells of the big city, then all on your own. each jostling for space. MGM (172C Nguyen Dinh for vibrant nightlife, excellent The point here is to walk, the Chieu, D3) and Number 9@ (9, cuisine and decent shopping, Heel-to-heel best way to explore a new place, Ly Tu Trong, D1) are built in the Saigon is hard to beat. It also acts A good way to explore is on and in downtown Ho Chi Minh same mode, while Nirvana (37 as a gateway to some excellent foot. Start in Dong Khoi, the City, wherever you go there’s Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1) has beach spots including Mui Ne, central downtown thoroughfare, something to catch your attention. taken an ancient wooden house Phu Quoc and Vung Tau. and work your way around the If you can master how to cross the from the Mekong Delta and kit- various side streets and down to roads and are prepared to brave it ted it out with reproduction art High but not light the river. Now earmarked as the all on foot, this is the best way to deco furniture. For those taking their first trip business district of the future, get a sense of the real Saigon. For good quality espresso- to the city, there is a standard this part of town is a mish-mash based coffee, Illy Café (11-13 package-tourist trail that follows of office blocks, construction Café Culture Lam Son Square, D1) provides a surprisingly un-jaded path. sites, colonial shophouses, Vietnam is one of the world’s top an international environment Along the way such sites as the designer clothing stalls, souvenir exporters of coffee, and the obses- with Italian coffee to match. French-built Notre Dame Cathe- shops, restaurants, bars, hotels, sion with caffeine-infused drinks Highlands Coffee (235 Dong dral (Dong Khoi, D1), Ben Thanh malls and cafés. Its present state extends itself to local culture. Khoi, D1), a growing chain

30 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 getaways selling both generic local and Dong Du, D1) is an excellent For the Imperial-style version International Cuisine imported coffee, is also a nice wine bar, La Habana (6 Cao Ba (bun bo Hue), try 3A3 Bun Bo Going budget, it’s best to head place to relax. However, for the Quat, D1) does tasty cocktails, Hue (39A Ngo Duc Ke) and for to the backpackers’ area (De most interesting mix of both Alibi (11 Thai Van Lung, D1) bun thit nuong (rice noodles Tham, Bui Vien and Pham Ngu foreign and local, try out Trung mixes French flair with Viet- with salad and barbecued pork) Lao, D1), where a few places Nguyen (50 Ho Tung Mau, D1). namese charm, the Irish-themed go to the night stalls outside the serve excellent but cheap fare. Also a nationwide chain, the full Sheridan’s (15/13 Le Thanh Ton, east gate of Ben Thanh Market. The long-running Margherita range of espresso-based coffee D1) has nightly live music and Beyond this, the best Vietnam- (175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, D1) does is on sale as is a selection of Blue Gecko (31 Ly Tu Trong, D1) ese cuisine in town is seafood, an interesting but tasty mix of local and imported filter coffee. has a distinct Australian touch. barbecues and hotpots. A good Mexican, Italian and Vietnamese Topping the menu, though, is the Head out of town a little and place to start is Luong Son (31 Ly cuisine. Another winner is Chi’s weasel coffee. Made from beans you’ll find Number 5 (43 Mac Tu Trong, D1). A large beer hall Café (40/27 Bui Vien, D1), an picked from the droppings of Dinh Chi, D1), presently the of a place with open, fan-cooled attractive but low-key eatery do- weasels, this is supposed to be most popular expat bar in town. seating, the speciality is bo tung ing good sandwiches, breakfasts, the best Vietnam has to offer. At baked potatoes and Vietnamese VND57,000 a go (US$3.60) it bet- cuisine. For price and quality, ter had be. Just don’t smell it. the pace of change is inexorable, the this area is also home to prob- traffic is terrible and dog quite literally ably the best Thai restaurant Nightlife eats dog in town, Coriander (185 Bui

Like cafes, Vietnamese night- Vien, D1). Try their pad thai – as getaways clubs are also a unique feature authentic as it comes. of life in Saigon. Be prepared in The backpackers’ area also has xeo (marinated beef barbecued Back in town there are a num- advance, though, for copious a number of bars including the at the table). The menu here ber of standouts including the amounts of hair gel, scantily clad rowdy Go2 (187 De Tham) and includes the full range of seafood excellent Jaspa’s (33 Dong Khoi, women, deafening beats and lots Le Pub (175/22 Pham Ngu Lao). as well as local, not-so-delicate D1) and its sister restaurant Al of top shelf spirits. For 24-hour drinking and night- delicacies such as deep-fried scor- Fresco’s (27 Dong Du, D1), home For the better venues in town life to match, this is the place to pion for the brave of heart. to the jumbo barbecued ribs. head to the Palace Club (Palace go when international-style bars The top floor terrace restau- The sandwich, salad and meat Hotel, 55-65 Nguyen Hue, D1), like Q Bar (7 Lam Son Square, rant Quan Nuong (3rd Floor, pie café-cum-restaurant Juice Volcano (148 Cong Quynh, D1) and Lush (2 Ly Tu Trong, 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1) (49 Mac Thi Buoi, D1) also offers D1) and Gossip (79 Tran Hung D1) finally close up. also specialises in on-the-table solid, tasty fare while the min- Dao, D1). Prices here are far barbecues, and is almost always iscule Black Cat (13 Phan Van from cheap – a beer starts at Food Glorious Food packed to the brim, while the Dat, D1) is the home of the mega VND70,000++ and spirits go from Vietnamese cuisine is the source restaurant on the floor below, the burger and an excellent range of about VND700,000 a bottle. of much local pride. Pho (noodle art deco Temple Club, serves up sandwiches and subs. For cheaper drinks, the bars soup) emanates from Hanoi Vietnamese street food and local Also notable is the Spanish are a better option. Downtown, making it less of a Saigon must- specialities in a quite stunning tapas restaurant Pacharan (97 a bottle of Tiger costs around try. The city’s most historically colonial environment. Hai Ba Trung, D1), home to good VND30,000 (US$1.90) while significant pho joint, Pho Binh For good seafood head to cuisine, an amazing Spanish a spirit and mixer goes for (7 Ly Chinh Thang, D3) is an the down-to-earth Quan Ta (31 wine list, excellent cocktails and around VND60,000. official landmark. A group of Nguyen Thi Dieu, D3) or the Wednesday night live music, Underground (69 Dong Khoi, northern loyalists met in 1968 to slightly garish, mock colonial and The Refinery (74/7C Hai Ba D1) remains one of the most plan the Tet Offensive, and all Quan Bien (86 Vo Van Tan, D3), Trung, D1), a French-style bistro popular bars downtown while over a bowl of noodles. while the classy, Chinese-themed with outdoor garden terrace Café Latin (19-21 Dong Du, D1) White rice noodle dishes (bun) Chen (152 Nguyen Trai, D1) does seating. However, for perhaps is good for live sport, Qing (31 are also to be found everywhere. some of the best hotpots in town. the most interesting menu in

Accoustic Bar: Saigon’s latest live music hotspot DJ Sylvia: Brazilian spin on the dance floor

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 31 getaways

 

Lush: The city’s premier nightspot also does excellent cuisine town, head to Xu Restaurant & Better known as Saigon’s Lounge (Level 1, 71-75 Hai Ba original American-run bar/res- Trung, D1). Here international taurant, Mogambo has 10 rooms fine dining cuisine has been upstairs for a good price.  mixed with Asian and Viet-  namese flavours in a modern, Norfolk Hotel stylish setting. And don’t forget 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 getaways  the interior-designed Cepage Tel: (+84) 8 829 5368 restaurants  (Lancaster Building, 22 Le Thanh One of the city’s premier, mid- Ton, D1), rated by many as the range hotels. best restaurant in town.  Park Hyatt  Shop but don’t drop 2 Lam Son Square, D1 A number of malls have sprung www.saigon.park.hyatt.com up in recent years selling the full Luxury colonial-style hotel adja-  range of genuine goods includ- cent to the opera house. ing Diamond Plaza (34 Le Duan, D1), Parkson Plaza (39-45 Le Que Huong III Thanh Ton, D1) and Saigon Tax 127 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Centre (39 Le Loi, D1). How- Tel: (+84) 8 836 9522 ever for not-so-genuine cheap The best mid-range hotel in the CDs, watches, designer clothing backpackers’ area. and odds n’ ends head to the recently relocated Saigon Square Sheraton 88 Dong Khoi, D1 (77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1). www.sheraton.com/saigon As good, if not better than its Strategically-located five-star in competitor Ben Thanh Market, the heart of Saigon’s business be prepared both to bargain and and commercial district. walk away. Antique Street, a road which Tram Anh Guesthouse sells mainly repro, is Le Cong 185/24 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Kieu, and Dan Sinh Market (104 Tel: (+84) 8 837 1004 Yersin, D1) has a good selec- Budget hotel in the backpacker’s tion of army surplus equipment area with spacious aircon rooms. and fake war Zippos. However, topping all and undoubtedly Information the market of all markets is Binh Currency: Vietnamese Dong Tay Market in Chinatown (Thap US$1 = VND16,100 Muoi, D6). Most of the goods here go wholesale, so don’t Getting there expect to buy much. But the A return flight to Saigon takes displays, variety and range of approximately 45 minutes and goods are so eye-catching that costs around US$180. Regular it’s more than worth a visit. buses also make the trip (6 hours) and cost US$12 one way. Accommodation Hotel Majestic Visas 1 Dong Khoi, D1 No visas for Vietnam are available www.majesticsaigon.com.vn at the border. To get your visa in Classic colonial-style downtown advance go to the Vietnamese 39 Ton That Thiep Street Open everyday from 9am to 9pm hotel with views over the river. Embassy on Monivong Blvd. or District 1, HCMC We ship worldwide visit any travel agents. The price Tel: 84.8.914.3769 [email protected] Mogambo Mini Hotel of the visa varies depending on Fax: 84.8.914.3768 www.gayavietnam.com 20Bis Thi Sach, D1 how quickly it’s needed, but is Tel: (+84) 8 825 1311 around US$30 to US$33.

32 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 getaways

Room with a View Stunning coastal views: Overused cliché that From the Independence possibly the best housekeep- it is, for once the majestic, ing I’ve experienced in a hotel. sweeping views from the top Its current semi-open status floors of the Independence means that room rates are ex- Hotel justify all superlatives. tremely reasonable at the mo- First opened in 1963, the hotel ment and the hotel is mainly epitomises the chequered empty, making this the ideal history of Cambodia’s major spot for a weekend getaway. coastal resorts of the time. Dine al fresco at the stylish Designed by French architects beach restaurant raised on Leroy and Mondet, it is very rocks over the beach and with much in the style of the New mature trees emerging through Khmer Architecture of the 50s the terrace area. Order your and 60s. Used first by Khmer food from the main restaurant Rouge forces and then Untac, and have it served to your locals claim that it is haunted. table by your own personal Recently reopened after waiter; the ultimate in deca- getaways more than twenty years of dence. My advice is simple – inactivity, the seven-story get there before the bus loads hotel nestles at the northern of tour groups arrive. One tip of Sihanoukville’s Indepen- thing is for sure, when the ho- dence Beach. It quite literally the extra money for a deluxe new swimming pool – the tel is fully opened, it will once dominates the surrounding room – all of which have un- old one was reportedly used more become the place to stay landscape. broken sea views. by the Khmer Rouge to hold in Sihanoukville. From its lofty vantage point, prisoners – falls away into Independence Hotel, the top floors afford breath- Perfect Getaway the surrounding woods and Street 2 Thnou, Sihanoukville. taking views of the bay and Although called a resort and there is a 200-metre stretch Tel: 034 934 300, nearby islands. All the rooms spa, the spa is not due to be of private beach as well as a www.independencehotel. are sea-facing, although the completed until early next small gym. net. Rooms are US$100+ lower floors look out over the year when the hotel will have Although some of the (deluxe), US$110+ (superior) trees with only fragmented its official opening. This does service needs to be fresh- for residents of Cambodia views of the sea through the not mean that the hotel is ened up for the ‘hard’ launch showing this magazine – gaps. It is well worth spending lacking facilities. The beautiful it is friendly throughout, with MARK JACKSON.

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 33 getaways

the motorbike diaries: part 6

side of the road at over 4,000 metres. However, the surrounding views made it all worthwhile. One day at dusk we as- cended Taglang La, the world’s second highest road pass at 5,300 metres, the bikes barely making it due to lack of air, and on the way down we were forced to descend in the dark. Fortunately we came across a Tibetan tent and spent the night there drowning ourselves in thick blankets provided by the kind owner, who even served us ice cold beer! The following day we passed many gompas perched on high hill tops and in- evitably ran out of fuel, 70kms before our destination. We met some travellers on Enfields who donated a couple of litres and finally we made it to Leh. For further info on Lotta and Mike’s trip, go to their blog on www.thebigtripon.

getaways blogspot.com. restaurants Travelling from Vietnam to London by motorcycle, Mike Gracey and Lotta Väänänen cross from Nepal to northwestern India and head up to the Himalayas. Leh After we insisted our bikes to be legally stamped into India, we were progressing towards Delhi when my bike came to a sputtering halt; water had been sucked up into the fuel tank from the numerous river crossings back in Nepal. Mahendranagar Three hours draining the tank later we Kodari were back to dodging death on one of India’s highways in the dark. Delhi Kathmandu Mike ‘Che’ Gracey & Lotta ‘Knieval’ Väänänen North to Leh to Varanasi After a brief stopover in Delhi we headed re-fuel, north to Leh in the Himalayas. The 1,000- not only our Kolkata km journey took eight days. We encoun- tanks but our jerry Luang Prabang tered many landslides but luckily with cans too, as the next Chiang Mai the bikes we were able to snake our way fuel stop was not for past stationed vehicles. Once we broke another 365kms. Vientiane away from the clouds we were stunned to come across snow-capped peaks and Taglang La were utterly speechless, but were even The remaining journey proved to be treacherous due to the terrain, Bangkok more so when we came to a thunder- Phnom Penh ous river dominating a good 200 metres hairpin bends and the altitude. At one of the road. We ploughed through, only stage I just about managed to peel off HO CHI dropping the bike once. In Tandi we had my helmet in time before vomiting on the MINH CITY

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Street 2 Thnou, Sangkat No. 03, Khan Mittapheap, Sihanoukville, Cambodia Tel: +855-34 934 300 - 303 H/P: 012 728 090 Fax: +855-34 933 660 Web: www.independencehotel.net Email: [email protected] or [email protected]

34 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 getaways Hotels & Travel

ChildSafe® A network protecting children from all forms of abuse. www.childsafe-cambodia.org.

air-con cost US$60. Also has a good res- Battambang taurant and bar with some quite stunning La Villa sweeping views down to the coast. East bank of river Tel: 012 826 186 www.lavilla-battambang.com Beautifully restored 1930s colonial house Kratie with six rooms from US$45 to US$50. Le Relais de Chhlong Special expat offer of two nights for Mekong riverside, Chhlong (Kratie Prov- US$49 per person for two people includ- ince) Tel: 012 501 742 ing day trip and lunch. [email protected] Beautifully restored colonial house set in a peaceful village with stylishly furnished Chau Doc (Vietnam) rooms. Intimate restaurant, swimming Victoria Chau Doc Hotel pool and river views make this a unique 32 Le Loi Tel: +84 76 865 010 and luxurious place to get away from it all. www.victoriahotels-asia.com getaways A few kilometres on the Vietnamese side of the border, Chau Doc’s finest has great Phnom Penh - Deluxe views of the Bassac River, a swimming pool, Amanjaya a restaurant serving both international and 1 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 214 747 Vietnamese cuisine and great massages. www.amanjaya.com Rooms from US$180 a night. Large hotel with a great central location along the river front. The rooms are spacious and well-equipped with tasteful Kampot Khmer decorations. The downstairs res- Bokor Mountain Lodge taurant doubles up as the air-con K West Riverfront, Kampot Tel: 033 932 314 bar. Rooms from US$155 to US$265. www.bokorlodge.com Beautiful French colonial building situ- Cambodiana ated on the riverfront with well-fitted air- 313 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 426 288 conditioned rooms ranging from US$20 www.hotelcambodiana.com to US$35. Also has a good restaurant Great riverside location with spectacular and bar with some outside seating over- sweeping views of the confluence of three looking the river. rivers. Large rooms with air-con, in-room safes and good bathrooms. Live band Les Manguiers plays nightly (except Sundays). 2km north of Kampot Tel: 092 330 050 Small resort with bungalows and rooms Himawari set in beautiful gardens overlooking the 313 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 214 555 river. The three rooms cost US$15 and www.himawarihotel.com the four bungalows US$20 to US$25. The 115 beautifully-designed suites have Also has a restaurant with daily changing, aircon, cable TV, IDD, Internet, in-room freshly prepared food. Best to book up in safes and large bathrooms. Nice swim- advance especially at weekends. ming pool and good gym facilities as well as two good tennis courts. Rooms from Kep US$113 to US$306. Imperial Garden Hotel Champey Inn Resort 315 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 219 991 Tel: 012 501 742 Large hotel and villa complex next to the Sea-fronted resort with bungalows Cambodiana. Has a swimming pool, gym from US$40 per night. Has a well-sized and tennis court. Live band plays nightly. swimming, restaurant, bar and pleasant gardens. Intercontinental 296 Mao Tse Tung Tel: 023 424 888 Knai Bang Chatt Resort www.ichotelsgroup.com Tel: 012 879 486 One of Phnom Penh’s most luxurious www.knaibangchatt.com 5-star hotels. The 346 aircon rooms have Exclusive seaside resort just along from all the expected facilities including in-room the crab stalls, which has opened up its safes and king size beds. Also has a large doors to the public for US$150 per night swimming pool, a Clark Hatch Fitness including breakfast. Elegant swimming Centre, a spa and beauty salon. Rooms pool, air-con, gym, library and fantastic from US$190 to US$1,500. gardens, this resort is the ideal place to get away from Phnom Penh. Good res- Raffles Hotel Le Royal taurant with fantastic views of the sea. Street 92 Tel: 023 981 888 www.phnompenh.raffles.com The Beach House Emanates the same class as its more Opp. Kep Beach Tel: 012 240 090 famous namesake in Singapore. The www.thebeachhousekep.com Elephant Bar is a popular expat haunt Small hotel with pool in an excellent during the 4pm to 8pm happy hour. location, directly opposite Kep’s mermaid Beautiful gardens with a separate statue. Relaxed café, and tasteful west- swimming pool for kids plus reasonably ern-style rooms all with sea view. Can priced apartments for long stays. Rooms organise trips to nearby Rabbit Island or from US$260 to US$2,000. further afield to Bokor Mountain. Rooms from US$30 to US$45 per night. Sunway Hotel 1 Street 92 Tel: 023 430 333 Veranda Natural Resort, Kep www.sunway.com.kh Tel: 012 888 619, Luxurious international four-star hotel www.veranda-resort.com located close to Wat Phnom with 138 Traditional wooden bungalows set in the well-sized rooms. Spa, good business hillside, hot water and breakfast from centre and meeting facilities. Rooms US$20. Spacious family bungalows with from US$80 to US$540.

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 35 getaways

speed Internet access and the latest mod California 2 swimming pool and French-Khmer décor. Phnom Penh - Mid-Range cons. Rooms from US$85. 317 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 982 182 Rooms from US$160 a night. Anise www.cafecaliforniaphnompenh.com 2C Street 278 (Cnr. of 57) Tel: 023 222 522 Goldiana Recently refurbished with a great location Victoria Angkor www.anisehotel.com 10-12 Street 282, Tel: 023 219 558 along the river front. All the rooms have Near Royal Gardens Small hotel with well-fitted, good size www.goldiana.com air-con, cable TV and hot water. Popular Tel: 063 760 428 rooms, all equipped with air-con, in-room Extremely popular hotel for visiting NGO downstairs bar. Owner Jim is a mine of www.victoriahotels-asia.com safe and hot water. Downstairs restaurant workers presumably due to its close information on bike-trips out of town. Large beautiful hotel with the most serves Asian cuisine. Rooms from US$28 proximity to NGO-land and decent prices. Rooms from US$17 to US$22. luxurious swimming pool, gardens and Le to US$60. Rooms from US$28 to US$48. Bistrot Restaurant. Rooms from US$285 L’Imprevu per night. Aram Renakse Hotel Highway 1, 7km past Monivong Bridge 70 Street 244 Tel: 012 565 509 277C Sisowath Quay Tel: 024 390 405 Sihanoukville www.boddhitree.com Tel: 023 214 498 www.hotel-imprevu-resort.com Renovated 1950s building which is part Large hotel set in some beautiful gardens Complex with twenty-four bungalows just The Independence Hotel of the Boddhi Tree group. Has spacious just across the road from the Royal Pal- outside of Phnom Penh. Tennis courts Street 2 Thnou, Sangkat No. 3, rooms with en suite and a chic cafe. ace. Rooms US$35 to US$60. and excellent swimming pool make this a Khan Mittapheap Rooms from US$36 to US$45. good break from the city. Bungalows for Tel: 012 728 090 The Pavilion US$13 to US$20. Beautifully restored hotel on Indepen- Billabong 227 Street 19 Tel: 023 222 280 dence Beach, originally opened in 1963, 5 Street 158 Tel: 023 223 703 www.pavilion-cambodia.com Tonle Sap Guest House reopened in 2007 following a complete www.thebillabonghotel.com Beautiful boutique hotel set in a colonial 4-6 Street 104 Tel: 023 986 722 refurbishment. Infinity pool and sweeping Centrally-located mini-hotel with a great building with 10 large, uniquely-designed www.tonlesapguesthouse.com ocean views from most rooms. Gym, swimming pool surrounded by beautiful rooms, each with either a small balcony or Clean, well-kept guesthouse upstairs with conference rooms and circular restau- palm trees. Serves good food. The rooms garden. Outdoor swimming pool, free Wi- 15 rooms, from US$15 to US$30, with air- rant. Rooms from US$110 to US$450 are a reasonable size with aircon and Fi and a small poolside restaurant. Rooms con, fans, hot water, cable TV. Downstairs per night. range from US$36 to US$58. from US$50 to US$65. Pickled Parrot bar open 24 hours. Reef Resort Bougainvillier Villa Langka Tony’s Guest House Road from Golden Lion to Serendipity 277G Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 220 528 14 Street 282 180 Street 130 Tel: 092 289 068 Tel: 012 315 338, Stylish riverfront hotel with 40 rooms, Tel: 012 449 857 Guest house next door to popular bar that [email protected] including some impressively large suites. www.villalangka.com also goes by the owner’s name. All the Small guesthouse set around a beautiful getaways Dark wood antique style furniture and Brand new boutique hotel with restaurant rooms (from US$15 to US$25) have air- pool, very much in the style of the Billabong restaurants jewel coloured silks create a luxurious nd beautiful swimming pool. Just a stones con, 60-channel cable TV, king-size beds in Phnom Penh. Rooms have aircon with ambience, and all the necessary ameni- throw away from Wat Lanka. and an en-suite bathroom with hot water. in-room safe and cable TV. Family rooms ties are available. The hotel is also home also available. Has a welcoming bar with to a gourmet restaurant. Rooms are Siem Reap excellent TV screen and a 9-ball pool table. US$50 to US$80. Phnom Penh - Budget Rooms from US$35 to US$60. Boddhi Tree Amansara Sokha Beach Resort FCC Phnom Penh 50 Street 113 Pokambor Avenue Tel: 063 760 333 362 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 724 014 www.amanresorts.com Sokha Beach, Tel: 034 935 999 Tel: 023 998 424 With its own private beach, excellent www.fcccambodia.com Small guest house with relaxed garden The ultimate in Siem Riep’s chic hotels. swimming pool and fine restaurants, Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has atmospehere and open balcony restau- The limited number of rooms and high- Sokha is easily the classiest place to stay seven rooms with balconies offering views rant with an imaginative menu. Right walled perimeter make this the ideal in Sihanoukville. A live Filipino band plays of the river. Each is individually designed opposite Tuol Sleng. Rooms from US$8 refuge from the paparazzi for the global and meticulously outfitted with high- to US$26. Angkor jet set. Only able to get a room if around the cocktail bar at night. Rooms Mr & Mrs Smith are not on a flying visit. are available from US$85, but only if you Imperial Garden Villa & Hotel try hard. FCC Angkor Pokambor Avenue Travel Tel: 023 992 284 www.fcccambodia.com Cambodia Uncovered Boutique hotel with 31 contemporary Tel: 012 507 097 Asian-designed rooms spread around the www.cambodiauncovered.com garden and swimming pool. Free Wi-Fi for Offers village and cultural tours in Phnom guests both in rooms and around the pool. Penh and surrounds including road trips, Rooms from US$90 in low season. Mekong cruises, accommodation, cooking classes and more. Tours are for one to Hotel de la Paix four people. Sivutha Boulevard Tel: 063 966 000 Compagnie Fluviale du Mekong www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com Tel: 023 216 070 Stoneware bathtubs in the rooms, mini- www.cfmekong.com iPods on request and flexible reading Luxury cruises all the way from the flashlights above the decadently lavish Mekong Delta to Siem Reap in air-con Your Home in Phnom Penh beds make de la Paix a modern design accommodation. The full trip lasts seven Set at the conﬂuence of three of Cambodia’s mightiest waterways, classic. The Arts Lounge downstairs is days, with the journey from Phnom Penh Imperial Garden Villa and Hotel is just minutes away from Phnom a great place to chill and has free Wi-Fi. to Siem Reap taking three days. Penh’s bustling riverfront and downtown. Special offer rooms from US$165 a night. Exotissimo Travel Sabbay Bar Happy Hour 5pm – 10pm, La Residence d’Angkor 46 Norodom Boulevard Buy One Tiger Draught – Get One Free! River Road Tel: 063 963 390 Tel: 023 219 151 www.residencedangkor.com www.exotissimo.com Boutique, low-rise resort located across Excellent French-owned agency specialis- the river from the centre of town. Stylish ing in flight bookings, package holidays wooden décor. Good pool and lush and a range of well-run tours of South- garden setting. Rooms are US$340 to East Asia. Brochures are available online. US$440 a night. Extreme Rally Raid Raffles Grand D’Angkor Tel: 012 583 759 1 Charles de Gaulle www.tourismtheextreme.com Tel: 063 963 888 Visit ancient temples, canoe rivers, ride Elegant hotel with opulent gardens and a through the Cardamon Mountains. Go to spectacular swimming pool in its grounds. Koh Kong. If you want adventure, contact Has frequent art exhibitions and Apsara these guys. dancing on nearby terrace. Rooms are from US$350 in the high season. Travel Indochina 43-44EO Street 108 Sofitel Phokeethra Royal Angkor Golf Tel: 023 991 978 #315, Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh, Cambodia and Spa Resort www.travelindochina.com.au 5FM t'BY Road to temples Tel: 063 964 600 Australian-owned and managed travel www.accorhotels.com/asia company specialising in small group 8FCTJUFXXXJNQFSJBMHBSEFOIPUFMDPNt&NBJMTBMFT!JNQFSJBMHBSEFOIPUFMDPN Large spacious resort on the road to the journeys around Asia. Can also tailor trips temples. 18-hole golf course, expansive for individuals.

36 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 food corner Luna d’autunno 37 Map 42 Outdoor dining 38 Bargain Bucket 44 Food Corner Restaurant Guide 40 Festive Feasts 46 Food Talk: A little slice of Venice Luna d’autunno is one of Phnom Penh’s most chic Italian eateries. Liz Ledden chats to co- owner and manager Fabrizio Sartor about what makes his restaurant and menu so unique. food corner restaurants

Fabrizio Sartor Proud to stock purely Italian wines Evening in the garden The perfect spot for an intimate dinner Venetian Fabrizio Sartor The first restaurant opened in Sophisticated ambience too are the restaurant’s initia- made the move to Cambodia Hanoi eight years ago, followed “An Italian atmosphere in an in- tives. Live music acts have been a year-and-a-half ago after by Mui Ne (also in Vietnam), ternational way,” is how Fabrizio recently introduced, along with previously working in Berlin Phnom Penh, Saigon and Siha- describes Luna. The owner of I a weekend brunch buffet, with for three years. Searching for noukville. A Siem Reap branch Ching Décor is a business part- all-you-can-eat Mediterranean “greater opportunity,” he says he is currently in the planning ner, he says, and explains the de- cuisine for US$12 per person. found what he was looking for stages and due to open in a year, sign company has transformed One of the biggest hurdles he in Phnom Penh, following the says Fabrizio. the restaurant’s interior into a is trying to overcome is training helpful suggestion of his friend highly chic, minimalist room the staff, he says. “Although, I Bemelli Gino of the Luna group. Unique dishes with a sophisticated ambience. get much satisfaction when they “It felt like the right moment With a background as a chef, A glass-fronted wine room understand and do it properly,” for business in Cambodia,” Fabrizio is clearly passionate houses only Italian wines he adds. On the more positive says Fabrizio. “I came for one about Italian cuisine. He has per- imported by the restaurant. Fab- side, he believes that the country restaurant, now we have two, sonally trained his kitchen staff rizio proudly explains there are is on the way up and improving. and have plans for another one,” in the art of cooking, northern wines at Luna that you cannot “Now is the right time to have a he adds. Italian style. find anywhere else in Cambodia. business here,” he says, a senti- “Luna has a lot of signature Though the majority of Luna’s ment being echoed by many of dishes that other restaurants here clientele are expats, Fabrizio Phnom Penh’s foreign business I came for one don’t have,” he says. is noticing more Cambodian owners right now. restaurant, now One of these specialties, customers, who he says are eager Luna d’autunno, 6c Street 29, originating from Fabrizio’s home to try new things. While the Tel: 023 220 895 we have two, and town, is cuttlefish in squid ink customer base is changing, so www.lunadautunno.com sauce with polenta (US$7). The have plans for an- sole e luna di tonno (filled pasta with fresh tuna) at US$9.40 is another one other special dish at the restaurant. Though loosely based on a Luna Family Venetian dish, it is a concoction The brainchild of a small group of his own, Fabrizio explains. of Italian friends headed up by Homemade gnocchi and an Bemelli Gino, Luna d’autunno is extensive pizza menu are other a successful restaurant chain in points of pride. While he doesn’t both Vietnam and Cambodia. A want to boast he has the best love of the region led the group pizzas in Cambodia, Fabrizio to set up the chain in Southeast maintains his customers often Asia, according to Fabrizio. tell him that he does. Chefs in action Luna’s open air kitchen

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 37 food corner Feasting al fresco With the holiday season approaching and the celebratory meals it brings, what better time than to dine in the sunshine or under the stars? Be it in a garden, on a terrace, a rooftop or even poolside, Liz Ledden and Mark Jackson explore some of Phnom Penh’s best outdoor dining options.

L’Imprevu or out of the Toul Sleng genocide National Road 1, approx. 6km over museum opposite, the original Monivong Bridge, Tel: 023 360 405 Boddhi Tree Café neverthe- To get away from the city for less has a pretty garden setting a day to swim, eat and relax, dense with greenery. The café L’Imprevu has the ideal set up. fare is fresh, tasty and healthy, A hotel with bungalows and a with original juice and shake large swimming pool, there’s concoctions and food ranging a pool-facing restaurant where from Khmer curries and stir fry you can sit either under shade dishes to western salads and on the terrace or dine poolside sandwiches, often with unique at a table. The French menu combinations of ingredients. The features salads (US$4 to US$6), food is reasonably priced, with grilled meats (US$8 to US$10) most items from US$2 to US$4. and traditional French fare There are some long chairs with such as steak tartare (US$6) and cushions better for groups and frogs legs (US$7) with a choice some smaller tables too and the of green pepper or Provencal lush courtyard space is a bit sauces. There are also some pan- Tamarind: One of the best rooftop dining options in the city different to anything else offered Asian dishes at US$4-5. The fully in the city. stocked bar features Belgian restaurants food corner duvel beer (US$5 a bottle). To Le Cedre make a day of it and use the 1 Street 360, Tel: 023 997 965 pool, it’s US$1 for kids and US$2 Le Cedre is Phnom Penh’s only for adults during the week, and Lebanese restaurant. Dishes US$2 and US$4 respectively at range from small hot and cold the weekend. dishes, with excellent fetta in pastry, kibbeh, vine leaves and Elsewhere dips, to Lebanese pizzas with 175 Street 51, Tel: 023 211 348 traditional toppings such as With relaxing, cushioned day- zaatar (a middle eastern spice beds dotted around the pool set blend). The meat dishes include in a lush garden, the grounds of a ‘baby’ chicken with garlic Elsewhere are a wonderful place sauce, that’s not so tiny. This is either for a drink or to dine. Lit also the place to try some new up at night it arguably looks it wines hailing from Lebanon, best. The diverse menu includes unique in Phnom Penh to Le a mix of western and Asian Cedre. The undercover ter- tapas-like snacks and tasty, race seating offers a highly Le Jardin: Large grassy yard creates an excellent feeling of space healthy food, which must be conducive environment for a washed down with Elsewhere’s the delicious seafood and garlic excellent feeling of space. Geared Lebanese feast. amazing vodka passion (US$3). butter pizza, or the picante (hot) towards families, there’s a kid’s An added bonus is that it’s free pizza, and check out the rotating play hut and sandpit with toys Luna d’autunno for a dip in the refreshing yet dessert stand inside for a sweet on the spacious grounds. Seat- 6c Street 29, Tel: 023 220 895 small pool, though in the day- treat afterwards. Le Duo now ing is outside yet undercover. Luna’s outdoor dining area time you may be sharing it with has a swimming pool to the left There are a few daybeds with offers a relaxing alternative to the under-five brigade. of its outdoor seating, which funky batik cushions set under its aircon, designer interior. It can be used by diners for an ad- the trees that offer a little more is the perfect spot for a casual Le Duo ditional US$6 per person. Plans privacy. Crepes, ice-creams and dinner with friends. You can 17 Street 228, Tel: 023 991 906 are afoot for an Italian delicates- sorbets are the drawcards here. see the chefs in action in the Le Duo is the spot for Sicilian in- sen to be built in the grounds in For lunch, both the chicken and open-air kitchen and there are spired food in Phnom Penh, with a few months time. rocket salad (US$4) and the pita enough trees to make you feel an affordable pizza and pasta bread with meatballs and yo- like you’ve escaped from the menu averaging US$6 per per- Le Jardin ghurt sauce (US$4) are delicious. busy streets outside. The wood- son. Dining al fresco is a must on 16 Street 360, Tel: 011 723 399 fired pizzas, split into separate a clear, not too hot night. There Salads, sandwiches and savoury Boddhi Tree Umma red and white pizza menus are are plants throughout the seating cakes with a decidedly French 50 Street 113, Tel: 012 565 509 excellent – and you can even area and the low lighting outside bent are on offer in this large Though often busy with tour see the pizza oven in action. creates a relaxing ambience. Try grassy yard café that creates an groups and visitors heading in There’s also a great selection

38 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 food corner of antipasti, pastas (averaging tive roof terrace in town (open US$7) and meat dishes (from evenings only), fairy lights and US$10 to US$22). all. Leaning more towards North African than French, the three Annam mixed mezze starters are excel- 1C Street 282, Tel: 023 726 661 lent value and ideal for sharing. Annam offers a more upmarket In- Tagines and couscous are the dian dining experience than many most popular main courses al- of its contemporaries in Phnom though there is normally a good Penh. Set in a house in a serene range of fish dishes available. garden, the restaurant has undercover terrace seating, along with Comme a la Maison an indoor dining area. From the 13 Street 57, Tel: 023 360 801 terrace, you can see the profession- Phnom Penh’s longest running al looking kitchen in action behind French restaurant also has the a glass wall. The menu includes an most elegant garden terrace. The extensive range of northern and mood at the restaurant changes southern specialties, with excellent as the day progresses. Breakfast masala dosas (10,000 riel), a crispy involves excellent freshly bread pancake enclosing a mildly spiced baked on the premises; salads, potato mixture, with chutneys and flans and snacks are ideal for a sambal on the side. There’s also a light lunch; and a three-course menu featuring Chettinad dishes, meal makes for dinner. It’s originating from the southern always advisable to look at Indian state of Tamil Nadu. With the weekly-changing specials fruit trees, a water feature, a gar- board, although both fish and den swing and a neatly manicured meat carpaccio make for a lawn, the grounds offer a beautiful great starter and the steak is an food corner setting for a delicious Indian meal. excellent value main. There is restaurants also a delicatessen at the back Talkin to a Stranger selling both freshly baked bread 21 Street 294, Tel: 012 798 530 and delicious homemade paté. In the style of an Australian beer garden, Talkin is a great spot for Garden Center Café I pub grub under the stars. Casual, 23 Street 57, Tel: 023 363 002 unpretentious and relaxing, the Although sitting on plastic chairs bar is all outdoors, with some on a covered terrace next to barstools around the bar itself potted plants is not everyone’s which and lots of chairs and tables cup of tea, the original Garden hidden amid the greenery. Along Center is a little piece of Britain with the Australian beers and in Phnom Penh. Very much excellent cocktails – try something in the style of British garden creative from the extensive martini centres, the café serves some of menu – Talkin is a good spot for the freshest, healthiest and safest a meal. The best night to go is food in town. Bread is cooked Thursday when the roast lamb fresh in its bakery and the home- special is great value at US$8 or made muesli and unsweetened US$10 with a glass of wine, but it’s yogurt – though not cheap – is a best to book this in advance. cut above anything found in the capital’s supermarkets. Despite Tamarind having one of the widest selec- 31 Street 240, Tel: 012 830 139 tions of breakfast options, the This well-situated French restau- standout dishes are the salads rant has possible the most attrac- and flans.

Elsewhere: Use of the pool comes free with the food

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 39 food corner

Riverfront French restaurant using gourmet downstairs denies the elegance upstairs, homemade ingredients, specialising in foie especially the roof terrace, which opens gras. Fish, beef, gourmet pasta dishes after sunset. Open 10am to 12pm. 03 A/C Restaurant Guide and langoustine also feature, plus a regularly changing specials board and French The Melting Pot wines. 3 course set lunches are also avail- 168 Street 155, able. Open 6am to 10.30pm. 03 A/C (opposite Russian Market) Tel: 092 223 301 Key to symbols Comme a la Maison Cute, cosy café with Parisian owners 13 Street 57 Tel: 023 360 801 located diagonally across from the Russian Under $3 Decidedly sophisticated French restaurant Market’s NYEMO. Good coffee and lunch Air Conditioning 01 per average dish A/C with a beautiful outdoor terrace area at the spot specialising in French crepes. Open front, yet secluded from the street. One of 8am to 5.30pm. 01 $3 – $6 the best French kitchens in town, shown Free home delivery available 02 per average dish by its popularity both at lunch time and at Topaz night. Small delicatessen at the back of the 182 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 012 333 276 Sophisticated, aircon restaurant with out- $6 – $10 restaurant. Open from 6am to 10.30pm. Free wireless Internet service side dining, upstairs bar, wine shop, cigar per average dish 03 03 room and private rooms. One of Phnom Elsewhere Penh’s finest restaurants. Open 11am to $10+ ChildSafe® 175 Street 51 Tel: 023 211 348 2pm and 6pm to 11pm. 04 A/C per average dish 04 A beautiful garden with palm trees, bath- sized swimming pool and luxurious reclin- Indian Sub-Continent ® ing couches makes you feel anywhere ChildSafe else than in the centre of town. A separate Annam A network protecting children from all forms of restaurant has a simple menu, although 1C Street 282 Tel: 023 726 661 abuse. www.childsafe-cambodia.org. dining Romano-style is far cooler. Open Beautiful terracotta terrace and garden 10am to late. Closed Tuesdays. 02 Indian restaurant with open kitchen, separate aircon restaurant and kids’ playpen. specialises in Khmer cuisine. Food has an La Croisette Separate north and south Indian menus. Cambodian appropriately fresh and daring flavour, es- 241 Sisowath Quay Tel: 011 882 221 Open from 11am to 2.30pm & 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Tuesdays. Boat Noodle 1 & 2 pecially if you opt for the crispy tarantulas Riverfront restaurant with an ample outside 02 A/C 184 Street 63 Tel: 012 200 426 as a starter. Good place to try fermented dining area screened off by trees. Good, East India 8B Street 294 Tel: 012 774 287 fish prahok. Open 11am to late.02 reasonably-priced, French cuisine with Khmer and Thai restaurant with excellent, excellent barbecues, as well as Asian 9 Street 114 Tel: 023 992 007 well-priced food. The Street 294 branch and Khmer food. Welcoming bar to have Predominantly South Indian cuisine in is set in a beautiful, traditional wooden Chinese a drink and look at a photo of Bridgette this pristine restaurant. Excellent breads house. Open 4pm to 10pm. Bardot in her prime. Open 7am to late. 02 including 9 types of dosa. All-you-can-eat 01 Mekong Village vegetarian Sunday special for US$4. 290 Monivong Bvd. 02 La Marmite Frizz Café Large Chinese restaurant that specialises A/C 80 Street 108 Tel: 012 391 746 335 Sisowath Quay, in crispy Beijing duck. Stays open until late This small, reasonably priced French Flavours of India Tel: 023 22 09 53 in the morning. 02 Dutch-run, riverside restaurant specialising bistrot has two adjoining rooms, one 158 Street 63 Tel: 023 990 455 in authentic Khmer cuisine. Serves very non-smoking. Relaxed, cosy atmosphere. Relaxing Indian and Nepalese restaurant Sam Doo with friendly staff and a good range of restaurants food corner good amok. Also runs its own cookery Serves excellent fish, steaks and offal as 56-58 Street 128 Tel: 023 218 773 dishes. Both the vegetarian and meat classes. Open 10am to 11pm. 02 well as daily specials, but no Marmite! The place for dim sum in Phnom Penh, thalis are good value. Open 10am baskets of steamed prawn dumplings, Open 11am to 2.30pm & 6pm to 11pm. to 10pm. 02 A/C Malis pork buns and more go for a mere 02 A/C 136 Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 221 022 US$1.20. In addition wonton soup and www.malisrestaurant.com Le Deauville Monsoon other tasty meals are a steal. 01 Beautiful modern Khmer restaurant with a Street 94 & Wat Phnom Tel: 012 843 204 17 Street 104 Tel: 016 355 867 Sumptuously-designed Pakistani restau- courtyard set around narrow water chan- Xiang Palace French bar and restaurant overlooking Wat nels and decorated with terracotta floor Phnom. Popular after work when there are rant and wine bar. The curries are excellent Intercontinental Hotel, 296 Mao Tse Tung and not too spicy, and come with a range tiles. Inside there are four aircon rooms Upmarket restaurant with possibly the free bar snacks. Indoor aircon space as if the mid-day sun gets too much. The well as outside terrace area. Open 11am of breads and chutneys. The wines have a best range of Cantonese cuisine in town, bias towards the antipodes, including pos- cuisine is modern Khmer, with no MSG, served in opulent surroundings. to 10pm. 02 A/C and is served elegantly in hollowed out 04 A/C sibly the best range of wines by the glass palm tree bark. 04 A/C Le Jardin in town. Open 6pm to 2am. 02 A/C French 16 Street 360 Tel: 011 723 399 Pon Loc Beautiful shaded restaurant with large Mount Everest 319 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 212 025 Atmosphere garden and spacious outdoor play area 98A Sihanouk Bvd. Tel: 023 213 821 Large, multi-storied restaurant serving 141C Norodom Bvd. Tel: 023 994 224 for kids. Serves excellent ice cream. Open The longest running of the capital’s Indian Well-established aircon restaurant serves restaurants, featuring an extensive halal Khmer food on the riverfront. Always 7am to 16pm. 02 seems to be filled out with locals and tour- fine French food in an elegant yet tastefully menu including 8 tandoor dishes from decorated setting. Close to Independence ists alike. Open 10am to 12am. 02 Tamarind US$3.50 to US$8. Open 10am to 11pm. Monument. Open from 11am to 2pm and 31 Street 240 Tel: 012 830 139 02 A/C 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Sundays. Romdeng 03 A/C Bold Mediterranean / North African Sher-e-Punjab 21 Street 278 Tel: 092 219 565 restaurant set on three floors which serves Bougainvillier 16 Street 130 Run by the same NGO as Friends, this couscous, tagines, chawarma, tapas 277G Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 220 528 Just off the riverfront, Sher-e-Punjab is a non-profit training school restaurant and mezze. Small bar with pool table

40 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 food corner favourite haunt of Phnom Penh’s expats, or breakfasts. The food, including yoghurt, due to its tasty tandoori dishes. Highly granola, bread and pâté, is prepared fresh courteous service and generous free in the kitchen. Second restaurant at 48 snacks, condiments and desserts make Street 57. Open from 7am to 9pm. Closed this a wallet friendly option. 02 A/C Mondays. 02

Shiva Shakti Gasolina 70 Sihanouk Bvd. Tel: 012 813 817 56/58 Street 57 Tel: 012 373 009 Decidedly upmarket and sophisticated The Latin spirit comes to Phnom Penh with Indian restaurant in a beautiful setting the largest garden bar and restaurant in with prices to match. Good place for an town. Extensive menu includes a Saturday Indian treat, especially the tandooris. Open brunch and BBQ, and Sunday brunch with from 11am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm. crèche facilities. The owners also host tai Closed Mondays. 03 A/C chi, capoeira and yoga classes. Open from 11am to late. 02

International Green Vespa Art Café 95 Sisowath Quay Tel: 012 887 228 84 Street 108 Tel: 012 834 517 Arguably the best pub grub in town and Elegant bistro and art gallery in the style guaranteed never to send you home of a European coffee house. German hungry. Country pub style menu with wide flame cakes and eau de vie as specialities. range of breakfasts. Special food offers Features art exhibitions and classical music each night of the week with a range of performance. Open from 11am to 11pm. alcohol for US$10. Open 6pm till late. 02 A/C 02 A/C

Billabong Gym Bar 5 Street 158 Tel: 023 223 703 42 Street 178 Tel: 012 815 884 Excellent western and Asian food which The best sports bar in town also has comes with a dip in the hotel’s beautiful reasonable food. Good burgers, curries pool. Lunchtime special of food & swim for and an ignominiously named Joel Garner US$7.50 is particularly good value. Open hot dog. Open 11am to late. 02 A/C from 6am to 9pm. 02 Irina Russian Restaurant Boddhi Tree 15 Street 352 Tel: 012 833 524 50 Street 113 Russian restaurant of iconic Phnom Penh Relaxed garden atmospehere and open status. If you can walk out of the restaurant balcony restaurant with an imaginative after hitting the vodkas then you are doing food corner menu. Right opposite Tuol Sleng. Open well. Open 12pm until the vodka runs 9am to late. 02 out. 02

Del Gusto Java Cafe & Gallery 43 Street 95 56 Sihanouk Bvd. Tel: 023 987 420 Beautiful colonial setting makes a perfect Great coffees, salads, mix-and-match seting for the Mediterranean-inspired sandwiches and juices served in an el- menu. Run by the same people as Boddhi egant setting. The terrace, which overlooks Tree. Open 7am to 9pm. 02 the Independence Monument, is a good place to sit and while away your afternoon. FCC Phnom Penh The relaxed inside dining area has a small 363 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 724 014 gallery attached to it with exhibitions of Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant, with Cambodian photography and art. Open sumptuous views across the river on one 7am to 10pm. 02 A/C side and the National Museum to the other. It’s best to come at sunset when Jungle Bar & Grill the streets below are most crowded, the 273 Sisowath Quay cocktails are half price and draft beer goes Tel: 012 474 230 for US$1. Open 7am to midnight. 03 Small restaurant that serves excellent Khmer and western food that tends to be Flavours overwhelmed by the larger Riverside next Cnr. Street 51 & 278 Tel: 012 175 896 door. Free use of Internet so long as you Relaxing restaurant and popular bar run buy something. Open 7am to 2am. 02 by two Quebecois with comfortable chairs A/C falling onto the street. The mix of Asian and western cuisine has proved so popular that K West they have a copycat restaurant opposite. 1 Street 154 (Cnr. Sisowath Quay) Open 7am to late. 02 Tel: 023 214 747 Stylish aircon bar and restaurant below the Friends Amanjaya with an excelllent steak menu 215 Street 13 Tel: 023 426 748 and good value happy hour from 6pm Non-profit training restaurant where all the to 8pm Fridays. Also has free Wifi. Open proceeds go to the neighbouring street-kid 6.30am to midnight. 03 A/C school. Food is a reliable mix of Mediter- ranean and Asian with tapas thrown in Metro Café if you are not feeling too hungry. Great Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 juices. Another one of Phnom Penh’s Tel: 023 217 517 / 012 906 706 places designed to take it easy, but this Stylish Metro has much more than time with a clear conscience. Open 11am cool décor and changing light boxes. to 9pm. 01 Contemporary Asian and western dishes on a manageable menu divided into small Frog & Parrot plates, grills, salads, soups and large 273 Sisowath Quay plates. Also has reasonably priced Tiger, Tel: 012 909 685 house wines and a great range of Martinis. Riverfront restaurant with a reasonable try the Expresso and you’ll never look mix of pub grub and Asian cuisine. Based back. Free Wifi. Open 10am to 2am.03 on the barmaids’ sales pitches to passing A/C punters, seems to have a perpetual happy hour. Serves food 6am to late. 02 Nature & Sea Cnr. Street 51 & 278 (2nd floor) Garden Center Café & Café 2 Tel: 012 195 3810 23 Street 57 Tel: 023 363 002 Laid back eatery overlooking Wat Langka. www.gardencentercafe.com Serves many types of fish dishes as well as Long-standing outdoor terrace restaurant some great crepes. Also sells some take set amongst plants, trees and small home organic produce. Open from 8am fountains that is ideal for healthy lunches to 10pm. 02

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Pacharan Part of a global pizzeria chain that includes 389 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 224 394 Florence, Tokyo, Seoul and Phnom Penh. Barcelona comes to Phnom Penh via Lon- Good terrace area and inside aircon room. don’s Mayfair in this exquisite up-market Bargain Bucket The cuisine is excellent with pizza and bodega. Aircon restaurant that specialises pasta cooked fresh in front of your eyes. in tapas and fine Spanish wines. Set in a 03 A/C beautiful colonial building with great decor, an open kitchen and sweeping views of Nouveau Pho de Paris: Le Duo the river, Pacharan is one of Cambodia’s 17 Street 228, Tel: 012 342 921 finest. Second branch in Ho Chi Minh City. Authentic beef pho This beautiful restaurant has the option of Open from 11am to 11pm. 02 A/C sitting outside or inside in air-con. Excellent wood-fired pizzas and pasta. Friendly Pickled Parrot Sicilian owner will guide you through the 4-6 Street 104 Tel: 012 633 779 extensive wine list. Open from 11.45am to www.tonlesapguesthouse.com 2.15pm & 6.15pm to 10.15pm. 02 A/C Aircon bar with an excellent 9-ball pool table. 24-hour satellite sports channel. Luna d’Autunno Reliable international and Khmer cuisine 6C Street 29, Tel: 023 220 895 is available at the bar. Open 24 hours with Beautiful courtyard or stylish interior air- free Wifi.02 A/C con restaurant, whichever you choose, Luna has more classical pizzas, both red Restaurant Tell and white, to choose from than most 13 Street 90 Tel: 023 430 650 restaurants. Also serves excellent pasta Up-market eatery that re-creates the genu- and other up-market Italian food. Good ine feel of an Alpine chalet. Older sister to wine cellar on view in the restaurant. Open its namesake restaurant in Saigon’s District 11am to 2.30pm and 5.30pm to 10.30pm. 1, it has a spacious indoor restaurant and 03 A/C outdoor terrace with rotisserie and bar. European menu with imported steaks, Pop Café fondue, raclette and an extensive wine Next to the New York rolls are available for US$1.90 371 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 012 562 892 list. 03 A/C A sophisticated, small Italian restaurant Hotel on Monivong Blvd. – with the two rolls in the serv- located next to the FCC that serves light, Rising Sun there are two other branches ing coming pre-cut to share. contemporary Italian cuisine including fresh 20 Street 178 in the city plus a Siem Reap Other cheap dishes include pasta and pizzas. Extremely popular with Tel: 012 970 719 outlet – Nouveau Pho de beef in clay-pot for US$1.80 expats. Open for lunch from 11.30am English-style pub with good breakfast, to 2.30pm and 6pm to 10pm for dinner. meat pies and hamburgers. Has a regular Paris is an excellent place and Cambodian dishes, such 02 A/C following at night especially on Fridays. for a cheap Vietnamese as noodles (US$1.60), pan- Great posters of British films and TV classics adorn the walls. Ideal for that touch of meal. The decor is quite 70s cake (US$1.60) and soup with Japanese & Korean nostalgia and the fish and chips are good, kitsch with wood panelling vermicelli noodles (US$1.50). Ko Ko Ro although not wrapped in newspaper. Open on the walls and some ques- If you want to really ‘splurge’ 7am to 10pm. 02 18 Sihanouk Bvd., tionable ‘art’, but the tasty here, the excellent BBQ Tel: 012 601 095 Affordable, canteen-style restaurant with restaurants food corner Riverhouse Restaurant and well-priced food more pork and braised duck are lots of specials dotted around the walls. 6 Street 110, than compensates. US$3.60 and US$4.40 re- Tel: 012 766 743 Charismatic owner has a copious supply Sophisticated restaurant with a welcoming The restaurant’s namesake spectively. of Japanese vodka. Open 11.30am to outside seating area that serves up a mix pho is only US$1.60 with Nouveau Pho de Paris, 2pm and 5.30pm to 9pm. 02 A/C of Asian and western food, including cous- a flavoursome broth and 260Eo Monivong Blvd. cous. Has a nightclub upstairs. 03 A/C Himajin authentic taste. Fresh spring Tel: 023 723 076 – Liz Ledden 84 Sothearos Bvd., Riverside Bistro Tel: 023 214 641 Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148 Beautiful small restaurant with open bar Tel: 012 277 882 The Shop juices, healthy food created with the fresh- and private Japanese-style dining rooms. Popular restaurant with expats and tourists 39 Street 240 Tel: 092 955 963 est of ingredients and home-style Elegant tiled floor, and wooden décor cre- alike mainly due to its large outdoor terrace Stylish café, with a wide range of fresh Taiwanese cuisine. 02 ate a very homely feel. Reasonable prices. area to view the river. Serves a mixture of bread, tempting patisseries and juices, ex- Open from 11am - 2pm and 5pm - 10pm. Asian and western food with an emphasis cellent salads and sandwiches. Crowded Wine Garden 02 A/C on German cuisine. Has rock music videos at lunchtime, but the small, cool courtyard 219 Street 19, Tel: 023 223 527 and a pool table in the Mata Hari pub at at the back creates a perfect haven from Outdoor garden restaurant at the front Origami the back. Open from 7am to 2am. 02 the sun. Open 7am to 7pm Monday to of Open Wine. BBQ meat, fish and 88 Sothearos Bvd. Saturday and 7am to 3pm Sunday. 02 seafood as well as Fanny ice-cream. Tel: 012 968 095 Talkin to a Stranger Excellent wines by the glass or bottle. Up-market, contemporary Japanese 21B Street 294 Two Fish Gallery Café Open 9am to 11pm ever day. 02 restaurant with a spacious air-con area Cosy garden restaurant cum bar using 9 Street 278, Tel: 016 368 700 downstairs and four private rooms imported Australian and local products. Gallery with three small exhibition upstairs. Specialises in sushi and tempura, Menu changes regularly and Thursday spaces and a café run by Taiwanese Italian and has Asahi, Kirin and Sapporo beers. night is special roast lamb night. Excellent artist, David Huang. Opened in September La Volpaia Open from 11.30am to 2pm and 5.30pm cocktails menu. Open 5pm to late. 02 2006, the café has a mixture of good 20–22 Street 13, Tel: 023 992 739 to 9.30pm. 03 A/C

44 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 food corner

burritos and burgers are extremely good, Mexican / Tex-Mex although of gargantuan proportions. Open Alley Cat Café 4pm to 2am. 02 Cnr. of Streets 19, 178 Tel: 012 306 845 café – function space Small, friendly patio café serving good Mexican food and claiming to have the Pan-Asian biggest burgers in town. Hard to find, Alley Anise Terrace Cat is tucked down an alley at the back of 2C Street 278 Tel: 023 222 522 living room the National Museum, the first on the right Beautiful terrace restaurant serving up if you are coming from Street 178. 02 South-East Asian cuisine. Does excellent value breakfasts and also sells New Zea- Enjoy an alternative and California 2 land ice cream. Open 6am to 11pm. 02 quality café experience 317 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 982 182 www.cafecaliforniaphnompenh.com Lemongrass Friendly bar on the riverfront serving good 14 Street 130, Tel: 012 996 707 food, especially the Baja fish tacos. Has Elegantly designed Thai-managed cheap beer all day and a few budget hotel restaurant that serves Thai and Khmer House 9, Street 306, (between st.51& Norodom) rooms upstairs. Open 7am to 10pm. 02 cuisine. Aircon with stylish use of heavy wood and artefacts tel: 023 726 139 Cantina to create a far more luxurious e-mail: [email protected] 347 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 222 502 ambience than the reasonable prices closed Mondays A mainstay of the riverside scene, this is would suggest. 02 A/C a popular meeting place for local expats. Serves good Mexican fare and features Lotus Restaurant & Lounge photographs that capture the changing 17 Street 322 Tel: 012 400 999 face of Cambodia. Open 3pm to late, This fine dining restaurant is managed by closed on Saturdays. 02 model agent Sapor. The elegant upstairs restaurant, while mixing Asian and western Freebird cuisine, specialises in Vietnamese. The 69 Street 240 Tel: 023 224 712 suave downstairs lounge bar serves two- Aircon American bar with neon lighting, a for-one happy hour cocktails from 5pm variety of memorabilia, comfortable seats, to 8pm and has a special celebrity night rock music and laptop hook-ups to the every other Wednesday. Open from 10am Internet. International menu with good to 2pm and 6pm to 11pm. 03 A/C lunch offers, an excellent range of bottled sauces and free chilli from 2pm on the Man Han Lou Restaurant first Saturday of the month. Be prepared 456 Monivong Blvd. Tel: 023 721 966 food corner restaurants for some good solid R&R. Open 7am to Cambodia’s only micro-brewery with midnight. 02 A/C four types of German-style beer. Has extensive Chinese, Thai, Khmer and Sharky Bar Vietnamese menus, as well as dim sum 126 Street 130 Tel: 023 211 825 breakfasts and excellent seafood. The www.sharkysofcambodia.com restaurant is spacious, accommodates Not just a pretty face, the biggest and large groups and also has a private dining most famous of Phnom Penh’s bars has area. Features traditional Khmer dance one of the best bar menus in town. The performances nightly.

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 45 food corner

Festive feasts and New Year beats

It might not quite be the same as dozing off infront of the Queen’s Speech or cracking open a XXXX on Bondi Beach, but Phnom Penh does have a rane of options for expats over the festive period. Words by Liz Ledden.

World’ themed party in the hotel’s Grand Ballroom, with cuisine from France, China and Cambodia. There’s also free flowing beer, wine and soft drink, lots of entertainment promised and some prizes. Intercontinental Hotel, 296 Mao Tse Tung, Tel: 023 424 888

Hotel Cambodiana A Christmas Eve gala buffet at the Cambodiana will include French oysters, a tempura station, BBQ and more with free beer. The dinner is US$35+ per person, and US$18+ for 6 to 12 year InerContinental One of the five-star Xmas alternatives olds. Christmas Day will FCC and seafood buffet at Café feature a seafood brunch buf- Christmas Eve and Christ- Monivong, with Santa bring- fet with free soft drinks and mas Day at FCC feature a ing presents for the kids at beer (at the same price as the restaurants food corner ‘Heavenly Christmas Feast’ lunchtime. Restaurant Le Christmas Eve feast). for US$30 net per person. It Royal will have a special A ‘Glamour and Count- includes a three-course dinner Christmas lunch menu and down by the Mekong’ party with several choices, such as two hours of classical music for New Year’s Eve promises a starter of salt and Kampot performances. Lunches are to be one of the city’s big- pepper squid, a main of duck US$55, US$69 and US$80 gest and best with a host confit ravioli and a dragon and (net) depending on whether of well-known Cambodian passion fruit pannacotta for you opt for 3, 5 or 6 courses. singers and performers to dessert. Heavenly, indeed! For New Year’s Eve there entertain the party-goers. New Year’s Eve at the FCC will be a gourmet feast Fireworks, live comedy, a is inspired by the hedo- in Restaurant Le Royal (7 kids hip hop show and Asia’s nistic hippy haven of Goa, courses at US$119.50 net per very own Tom Jones also India. The ‘Goin Goa’ dinner person) and a seafood grill form the line-up. A feast and party is US$25 net per and dinner dance around the including roast turkey, sushi, person, and features a spicy pool and gardens (US$115 fresh oysters, whole Atlantic Goan feast followed by a DJ net per person). The party will salmon and more is in store. bringing in the New Year in progress to the Conserva- Tickets are US$69+ per per- true FCC party style. tory for the big countdown, son, and US$35+ for 6 to 12 FCC Phnom Penh, followed by dancing in the year olds. 363 Sisowath Quay, Elephant Bar. Hotel Cambodiana, Tel: 023 724 014 Raffles Hotel Le Royal, 313 Sisowath Quay, Street 92, Tel: 023 981 888 Tel: 023 426 288 Raffles Hotel Le Royal Raffles is pulling out all stops InterContinental KWest for their grand Christmas The InterContinental’s Re- KWest restaurant at the and New Year celebrations! gency Café will play host to Amanjaya Hotel will put on Christmas Eve features a a Christmas Eve dinner (from a special Christmas dinner buffet lunch at the Café 6.30pm) and Christmas Day menu for US$35 per head Monivong (US$40 net, brunch (11.30am to 2.30pm). featuring a delectable array children 6 to 12 half price), a Traditional turkey and bour- of festive favourites. For New buffet dinner with traditional bon-glazed ham are among Year’s Eve, the restaurant will Christmas meats and des- the treats on offer, topped off host a US$45 per head dinner serts (US$49 net, children with Christmas pudding and at one of the best vantage corner of street 148 6 to 12 half price), and a apple pie both made the old- points in the city for the all & sisowath quay gourmet dinner in the hotel’s fashioned way. the riverfront action. phnom penh Restaurant Le Royal. The New Year’s Eve will KWest, 1 Street 154, big day itself sees a turkey consist of an ‘Around the Tel: 023 217 517

46 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 bar stool Cantina 47 Spot the Bar bar50 stool Bars Listings 48 Scrapbook 52 Festive Spirit 49 Bar Stool House of tequila Cantina’s Hurley has seen more comings and goings along Phnom Penh’s riverfront. He talks with Charis Shafer about tow of his greatest passions – tortilas and tequila.

a home with other bric-a-brac shelf tequila. “It really makes that intermingles with tourists a difference,” he insists. The and locals noshing on crispy taste is richer. As a European nachos and throwing back salty writer gets up to leave and bids margaritas. The menu, not to be goodbye to Hurley, another one out of step with the quirky kitsch of his friends settles down at the of Cantina, draws a snide visual bar. This one also has a similarly parallel between American film fascinating provenance, but calls vixen Joan Crawford and Mi- Cambodia his home. There does chael Jackson post-surgery. not seem to be a break in the steady stream of fascinating visi- Only Comfort Cuisine tors to the small bar at the back in this Cantina of Cantina. Nestled between pizza joints with dubious menu offerings, Drink in the History its riverside location is a haven In between chatting with one for backpackers, especially those of many friends, Hurley tries to from the Americas missing cui- explain the chilli project again, sine with a Latin twist. but gets distracted. Hurley is also The food is specially engi- a filmmaker who has been docu- neered to remind Hurley of his menting the riveting evolution California childhood. Quesadil- of his chosen home away from las, nachos and burritos are just home. As any good bartender, he some of the Tex-Mex specialties is at home discussing his latest on offer. All tortillas, Hurley technological acquisition, here the proudly reminds customers, are new PC Mac hybrid, as he is rec- bar stool made in house. He says early ommending drinks and dishes. on his staff were not keen about As the evening wears on, more the extra work, but now they stories and recommendations are actually work harder to create volleyed between stories of the the perfect, crispy tortillas. way it used to be in Cambodia. The delight on his face when Stumbling off the stool, visi- describing the artistry involved tors and regulars alike know that in creating the perfect tortilla the unfinished stories are only an shows that he considers the invitation to come again to this Hurley cuisine more than food. bar that drips with history like Full of interesting tales at Cantina’s bar He produces another marga- condensation on the side of the “The tequila a lot of to Cambodia with Untac when rita, this one made with a top margarita glass. people take as shots I marinate the country’s political instability my meat in,” says Hurley with- still made it front-page news. out a twinge of irony. Cantina When he came to Cambodia as a has a unique place on the river journalist, he fell for the country and not just for its Latin Asian and decided to stay. fusion, thanks to its owner and bartender, Hurley. Famous Friends Pouring a shot of Caza Dores Because of his long history in he talks about his chilli-growing the country, Hurley has a rare project with the Ministry of perspective on Cambodia. In his Agriculture. Going through bar he surrounds himself with some other bottles of tequila he various other well-informed is distracted from his story as he and worldly characters. On finds another choice brand and any given evening there will be muses, “I’ve never really tried to writers, artists, filmmakers and sell this before.” If he were to sell adventurers who have met and it though, it would go for US$12 become friends with this ami- a shot, he ventures. able bartender along the way. Though it is his passion now, The sign for Cantina is a piece gardening was not always his of art made from twisted guns. raison d’être. Hurley first came This metaphorical art piece finds Homemade tortilla bread Excellent with Cantina’s side sauces

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 47 bar stool

Street 278. Upstairs bar has a nice open the largest garden bar and restaurant in balcony, good cocktails and music. Has town. Extensive menu includes a Saturday the best foosball table in town downstairs brunch and BBQ, and Sunday brunch with Bars with regular tournaments. Also has crèche facilities. The owners also host tai a small designer clothes shop. Open chi, capoeira and yoga classes. Open from 10:30am to late. 11am to late.

Factory Lounge Golden Vine Key to symbols 83 Street 240 81 Street 108 Tel: 012 889 146 French-run bar with eclectic paintings and Air-conditioned bar with girls doing bar Air Conditioning Free Wireless Internet Service good range of cocktails. Good place to Maypole dancing to hip-hop. Particularly A/C chill after shopping along the street. Open attentive service and surprisingly good 5pm to late. food, especially Sunday roast. Open 12pm Tiger Super Cold Live Music to late. A/C FCC Phnom Penh 363 Sisowath Quay Green Vespa Barbados DV8 Tel: 023 724 014 95 Sisowath Quay Tel: 012 887 228 15 Street 108, 7 Street 148 Tel: 012 620 441 The first stop for newcomers and it’s easy The walls of this popular expat haunt are Tel: 012 210 295 One of the long-stays of the one-room, at- to see why. Set in a beautiful colonial strewn with photos of vespas and VIPs. One of the more stylish of the stock tentive hostess bars. Close enough to the house with sumptuous views across the Has an excellent selection of single malt Phnom Penh one-room bars with more river for you to sample alternative Phnom river on one side and the National Museum whisky, and does a US$10 special com- friendly barmaids than punters, and a Penh on a promenade along the front. to the other. It’s best to come at sunset bination of food and drink. Good music, pool table at the rear. The contemporary Open 12pm to 2am. A/C when the streets below are most crowded, especially if you are an 80s throwback. light-box bar cuts this one out above the cocktails are half price and draft beer Open early till late. A/C most. Large screen to watch live football Dodo Rhum House goes for US$1. Open 7am to midnight. in intimate surroundings. Open 8am till 42C Street 178 Gym Bar late. A/C Tel: 012 549 373 42 Street 178 Bar named after an extinct bird, which Fizz Tel: 012 815 884 Broken Bricks is brave considering the turnover rate 42 E Street 178, Tel: 012 175 896 The best sports bar in town with more Street 130 in town. Nicely decorated with strong, Recently opened bar that specialises in wide screens than sense and a good Tel: 012 790 898 wooden bar and chill-out room at the fresh juices. Also has a range of Khmer nine-ball pool table too. Ideal for watching Grungy, alternative little corner bar with back. Has a good specials menu for and Thai food. Premiership football or any other sport. eclectic music, lava lamps and exposed around US$6 to US$7 and tapas for US$3 Reasonable food. Open 11am to late. brick walls. Features a pizza menu and as well as over 20 different flavoured rums Flavours A/C a dimly lit, chilled ambience. Open 11am created by bar’s owner for US$1.50 per Cnr. Street 51 & 278 to 2am. shot. Open 5pm to late. Tel: 012 175 896 Hope and Anchor Relaxing restaurant and popular bar run 213 Sisowath Quay California 2 Elephant Bar by two Quebecois with comfortable chairs Tel: 023 991 190 317 Sisowath Quay Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Street 92 that fall out onto the street. The mix of Well-located restaurant and bar on the Tel: 023 982 182 Tel: 023 981 888 Asian and western cuisine has proved so front with seats stretching out onto the www.cafecaliforniaphnompenh.com Pleasant bar, popular with expats popular that they have a copycat restau- street. Wide screen TV for watching foot- Friendly bar on the riverfront serving cheap especially during the two-for-one happy rant opposite. Open 7am to late. ball. Open 6am to 2am. beer all day and reasonably priced food. hours (4pm to 8pm). A flamboyant carpet, The owner has a stock of photographs comfortable wicker chairs and hotel pianist Freebird Howie’s Bar taken on his many bike trips around (Tuesday to Sunday 6pm to 10.45pm) 69 Street 240 32 Street 51 Cambodia and plenty of information about provide a sense of a time gone by. Has Tel: 023 224 712 Air-conditioned and open until very late, more obscure tourist destinations. There many signature cocktails, including its Air-conditioned American bar with neon this is the Heart’s unofficial chill-out bar are also a few rooms upstairs. Open 7am more illustrious sister hotel’s trademark lighting, a variety of memorabilia, although the sound system could give the to 10pm. Singapore Sling. (Open 2pm to 12am comfortable seats, rock music and laptop Heart a run for its money. Tends to be a Monday to Friday & 12pm to 12am Satur- hook-ups to the Internet. The menu is popular late hang-out, especially around international with good lunch offers, an the pool table. Open 7pm to 6am. Cathouse Tavern day & Sunday). A/C A/C 4 Street 51 excellent range of bottled sauces and free The longest standing of Phnom Penh’s Elsewhere chili from 2pm on the first Saturday of the K West bar stool bars, which was the only bar in town 175 Street 51, Tel: 023 211 348 month. Be prepared for some good solid 1 Street 154 (Cnr. Sisowath Quay) during the U.N. days. The large curved bar A beautiful garden with palm trees, a bath- R&R. Open 7am to midnight. A/C Tel: 023 214 747 invites you to sit and chat with sized swimming pool and luxurious reclin- Air-conditioned bar and restaurant with a the welcoming barstaff. Open 4pm ing couches makes you feel anywhere else Frog & Parrot good value happy hour from 6pm to 8pm 273 Sisowath Quay Tel: 012 909 685 to midnight. A/C than in the centre of town. Great jazz-funk Fridays. Renowned for excellent mojitos. and ambient soundtracks and appropriate- Riverfront restaurant with a reasonable Open 6.30am to midnight. A/C Dingo Bar ly laid back service make this the optimum mix of pub grub and Asian cuisine. Based 34 Street 108 place to chill. Has Friday night parties once on the barmaids’ sales pitches to passing Mata Hari Tel: 012 303 531 a month with DJ and a good clothes shop punters, seems to have a perpetual happy Cnr. Sisowath Quay and Street 148 Aussie bar that serves beer for US$1 upstairs. Closed Tuesdays. hour. Serves food 6am to late. Tel: 012 277 882 and set the trend by being the first bar to Darkened bar at the back of Riverside open up in the now buzzing part of town Equinox Gasolina Bistro which has a couple of pool tables between streets 108 & 102. Open 4pm 3A Street 278, Tel: 012 586 139 56/58 Street 57, Tel: 012 373 009 and friendly barstaff. Open from 6pm to to 2am. Cool French hang-out that overlooks The Latin spirit comes to Phnom Penh with late.

ENGLISH PUB & RESTAURANT

Great British Food Served All Day.

Good Music, Great Mixed Drinks, & Some of the Coldest Beer in Town!

#20 Street 178 Tel: 012 970 718 Phnom Penh, Cambodia Open from 7am!

48 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 bar stool

Getting in the Festive Spirit

No snow or fireplaces, but the holiday season is just around the corner. Even though it may not be the same as home, a spirited holiday can be spent at any number of places around town. Charis Shafer runs through some of Cambodia’s Christmas and New Years offerings.

Green Vespa find a sign saying a boat is for Freebird 95 Sisowath Quay, rent. A typical vessel holding 69 Street 240, Tel: 012 887 228 twenty people can be had Tel: 023 224 712 The Green Vespa is going for US$10 per hour. A larger Enjoy an air-conditioned all out for the holidays. On craft, holding up to 40 people, holiday at the atmospheric bar stool Christmas Day after one can be had for US$20 an bar, Freebird. Their Christ- o’clock a full five-course hour. Beer, water and coca- mas day buffet will feature dinner can be had including cola can be purchased from traditional holiday favourites smoked salmon and prawn the captains for US$1. Liquor, of turkey and ham with all appetisers, potatoes and mixers and food are gener- trimmings. A specialty rarely leek soup, roast meats and ally purchased outside and found in Cambodia, Freebird cranberry sauce. This is brought on to the cruiser. The eggnog will be available for a topped off with Christmas best time to set off is around limited time only on Christ- pudding and coffee. This sunset and a trip typically mas day. The buffet begins sit down dinner is US$25 a lasts for two to three hours. at 2pm on Christmas Day head and requires reserva- and ends at 6pm. On New tions. On Christmas Eve and Sharky Bar Years Eve there will be cool Boxing Day roast turkey and 126 Street 130, champagne to match the ham can be had for US$10 a Tel: 023 211 825 bar’s interior. plate and on Christmas Eve Start the party early at mulled wine will be available Sharkys with their BBQ on Elsewhere by the glass for US$1.50. On Dec. 2. There will be free 175 Street 51, New Years Eve vodka and flowingA ngkor Draft from Tel: 023 211 348 red bull will be US$1 and on 5pm to 9pm for a mere US$7 The holidays are definitely New Years Day a pick-me-up a person. On Dec. 21 Sharkys a reason to visit one of the Bloody Mary is US$1. will have their 12th birthday city’s favourite party spots. bash. Enter the draw to win On Christmas Day there will Riverside Boats a motorbike and enjoy the be many drinks specials and Sisowath Quay Curtis King Band live with fun barbeques. For New Years Interested in a more cust- and games Sharkys’ style. On Eve, there will be a party omised Christmas or holiday Christmas Eve there will be with champagne, red and party? Round up a party drink specials all night long white wine specials all night and get a boat together. The and on New Years Eve enjoy long. Looking for a festive riverside boats are easily the funk of the Happy Lucky headstart? Elsewhere’s first obtained with a little planning Love You Long Time Band Friday party will be on Dec. 7 and some hand gestures. along with more enigmatic with plenty of holiday cheer Just stroll along the river and Sharky fun and games. to go around.

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 49 bar stool

Spot the Bar

This month’s Spot the Bar shouldn’t be too difficult to work out. To win two cartons of Tiger Beer as well as a Tiger premium pen, either email [email protected] or SMS 012 182 8237 with the name of the bar the above photo was taken in. The first name picked out of the hat on December 15 is the winner. As before the bar also serves Tiger Super Cold. Last month’s winner, Matthew Krivonozka correctly answered that November’s “Spot the Bar” was Elephant Bar.

Maxine’s designed Monsoon truly is an oasis. The Modelled on ‘the bed’ in Bangkok, this late Across Japanese Bridge wines have a bias towards the Antipodes, night bar has a large area with enormous Tel: 012 200 617 including possibly the best range by the white beds to recline on. Funky dance and Stirringly eclectic bar right on the river, glass in town. A/C house music spins on the decks. Features boasting the best sunset views in Cambo- a generous 6pm to 9pm happy hour. Open dia. Across the Japanese Bridge, Maxine’s Open Wine 4pm to 4am. A/C – or Snow’s Bar – is well worth seeking 219 Street 19, Tel: 023 223 527 out for it’s laid back ambience and old In- Large wine shop with well-priced wines Red Fox dochine charm. Open Tuesday to Sunday from around the world. Has an outside 10 Street 136, from near sunset til late. dining area with occasional wine tastings. Tel: 012 183 6265 Open from 9am to 11pm every day. A/C Small bar close to the riverfront, which Memphis Pub has frequent special drink promotions and 3 Street 118 Tel: 012 871 263 Pacharan a laissez-faire attitude towards smoking. The only permanent rock venue in town 389 Sisowath Quay Poker nights three times a week. Has a with a house band that plays covers with Tel: 023 224 394 small guesthouse upstairs. Open 9am

bar stool Filipina singers. Band plays from 9pm Barcelona comes to Phnom Penh via to late. to 12.30am (weekdays) and 10pm to London’s Mayfair in this exquisitely up- 2am (weekends) and guests are always market bodega. Specialising in tapas and Rising Sun welcome to join in. Also has open mike fine Spanish wines, this air-conditioned 20 Street 178 sessions. Open 5pm to late, closed restaurant and bar is set in a beautiful Tel: 012 970 719 Sundays. A/C colonial building with great decoration, an English-style pub with reliable breakfast, open kitchen and sweeping views of the meat pies and hamburgers. Has a regular Meta House river. Open from 11am to 11pm. A/C following around the bar at night especially 6 Street 264 T on Fridays. Great posters of British films el: 012 607 465 Pickled Parrot and TV classics adorn the walls. Ideal for www.meta-house.com 4-6 Street 104, Tel: 012 633 779 that touch of nostalgia and the fish and This multi-media arts centre established www.tonlesapguesthouse.com chips are good, although not wrapped in by German Nico Mesterham opened in Air-conditioned bar with an excellent 9-ball newspaper. Open 7am to 10pm. January. Has a very cool terrace bar with pool table, which is a popular late night barbecue. Open Friday to Sunday only. hang-out with expats. Reliable international Riverhouse Lounge cuisine is available at the bar, free internet 6 Street 110, Tel: 023 220 180 Metro Café and 24-hour cable sports channels. There Set above a sophisticated restaurant, the Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148. is also a clean well-kept guesthouse up- Lounge has become the alternative dance Tel: 023 217 517 / 012 906 706 stairs with 15 rooms, from $15 – $30, all of venue for both expats and young Khmers, Stylish and swish, Metro has much more which have air-con, fans, hot water, cable its key advantage is its location, with a than a cool décor and changing light TV and mini-bar. The bar staff speak good self-contained air-conditioned dance room boxes. Reasonably priced Tiger and house English. Open 24 hours. A/C and great balcony to chill out and watch wines and a great range of Martinis, try the the river float by. Actually varies its music, Expresso. Open 10am to 2am. A/C Pontoon featuring some of the best DJs in town. Miles River end, Street 108 Monday night is Retro, Thursday is House Cnr. Streets 310 and 113 Tel: 012 572 880 and Hip-hop is on Tuesday & Friday. Open Tel: 011 698 470 Phnom Penh’s only floating bar, Pontoon 4pm to 2am. A/C Extremely chilled, jazz bar and gallery near is a stylish, funky drinking spot and late Toul Sleng . Live jazz is played every Friday night venue. A definite favourite among the Rory’s Irish Pub night. Is open every night if you just want expat scene, Pontoon sometimes hosts 33 Street 178, Tel: 012 425 702 to relax. party nights with visiting DJs. The friendly Most Irish of the Irish bars in town with the staff mix excellent cocktails at the beautiful barmaids dressed in emerald green. Good Monsoon amber bar. Unbeatable location. Open place to talk to local expats or try the Irish 17 Street 104 11.30am until midnight (weekdays) and stew. Open 7am to midnight or 2am at Tel: 016 355 867 until late at the weekend. weekends. The combination of a Pakistani restaurant and wine bar is not one that readily springs Q Bar Rose Bar to mind, especially in a street more noted 96 Sothearos Bvd., 8 Street 104 for hostess bars. But the sumptuously Tel: 092 541 821 Tel: 012 992 197

50 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 bar stool

Long bar with normal array of numerous Walkabout barmaids and pool table to the rear. Has 109 Street 51 a good food menu including excellent Tel: 023 211 715 steaks. Has some rooms upstairs. Open If nowhere else is open in town then you 10am to late. A/C can always depend on the Walkabout. Plenty of women to offer males some Rubies company, but if you find yourself here then Cnr. Street 19 & 240 you should really be thinking it’s time to go Tel: 012 823 962 to bed. Open 24 hours. Small corner wine bar with warm wood panelled interior and loyal following. Happy Woolly Rhino Hour from 5.30pm to 7.30pm. Open 79 Sisowath Quay 5.30pm til late, closed Mondays. Tel: 012 836 904 Irish bar-cum-guest house. Good nine-ball Salt Lounge pool table and friendly owner are the bar’s 217 Street 136 main attraction. Open 6am to late. A/C In addition to being Phnom Penh’s first openly ‘gay’ bar, has probably the most Zanzibar contemporary design in town. It also 15 Street 104 welcomes straight customers. Open 6pm Tel: 012 778 295 to late. A/C Although it looks just like all the other one-room joints, this is the friendliest of Scandinavia Bar the friendly waitress bars. Run by Khmer 4 Street 282, sisters, this bar is always lively and has Tel: 023 214 498 a good pool area upstairs. Open 4pm to Comfortable terrace bar that specialises 2am. A/C in sangria and vodkas for the capital’s art- going fraternity. Open 7am to midnight. Zapata 83 Street 108 Shanghai Bar Tel: 012 778 295 21 Street 51 Friendly bar that looks more like a Tel: 012 804 836 wine than hostess bar. Usual mix of cheap www.shanghaibarcambodia.com drinks and friendly smiles set Fifty barmaids dressed in Robert Palmer to a hip-hop vibe. Excellent long outfits waiting to serve you. Good oval bar for shoulder massaging. Open 4pm bar that allows space to chat to expats to late. and tourists. Has the reputation for the A/C best Sunday roast (from 7pm) in town and great monthly Saturday barbecues. Open Zeppelin Cafe 4pm to late 49 Street 86 If you like your music heavy then this is the bar for you. Over 1,000 vinyl albums Sharky Bar played by stone-faced DJ owner. New 126 Street 130 bar has more room than previous intimate Tel: 023 211 825 space. Unique for Phnom Penh. Open www.sharkysofcambodia.com 4pm to late. Biggest and most famous of Phnom Penh’s bars is set on the first floor with countless pool tables and a large balcony Zombie Bird House to look out over the street. Guaranteed 1A, Street 278 to be lively, a place where anything can Contender for smallest bar in town. Tiny bar stool happen. Serves surprisingly good food, hole-in-a-wall with good music and friend- especially the Mexican. Open 4pm to 2am. ly French owner. Open 5pm to 2am. A/C

Simply Blue Nightclubs Cnr. Norodom Bvd. & Street 295 Gold Star Tel: 012 179 9469 42 Street 136 Contemporary cafe and bar with white Tel: 012 824 089 interior, fish tank tables and a coffee bean Recently opened a second floor to this topped bar. Generous happy hour with two increasingly popular Khmer nightclub. for one US$3 cocktails. Open 6am to 1am. Well-priced beers and non-stop hip-hop provide a welcome and central late-night Talkin to a Stranger alternative. Open 24 hours. A/C 21B Street 294 Elegant bar with nice gardens set in the heart of NGO town. Excellent place for Heart of Darkness post-work drinking or indulging in their 38 Street 51 vast array of cocktails. Good food and The most famous of the city’s nightspots one of the few places in town putting with a good-sized dance floor make this on events and live music. Has a trivia the in-place in town. Has well priced quiz every second Tuesday. Don’t be a spirits and mixers and is totally packed stranger. Open 5pm to late, closed on out on Friday and Saturday nights. Open Mondays. 8pm to late. A/C

Teukei Bar Martini 23B Street 111, 45 Street 95 Tel: 012 707 609 One of Phnom Penh’s longest standing Long-standing French bar with an ex- institutions, although it has moved to a tremely chill feel and good ambient music, venue a bit out of the way. Has a large serving reasonably-priced Asian and outdoor beer garden with separate French cuisine. Upstairs has a red pool compact disco room which features table and smoker-friendly balcony. Open the same DJs as elsewhere in town. 5pm to late. Popular with tourists looking for a new friend. Open 7pm to 3am. A/C Tony’s Bar 180 Street 130 Q Bar Tel: 092 289 068 96 Sothearos Blvd Popular expat bar with large screen and Tel: 092 541 821 some occasional live music. If you stay Small, dark late night bar with house here too long, you can always book into and guest DJs spinning funky dance one of the rooms in the guest house next and house music. Features a generous door, which is also run by Tony. Open 9am 6pm to 9pm happy hour. Open 4pm to to late. A/C 4am. A/C

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 51 Scrapbook Pacharan: Here’s cheers

May I have this dance: Romancing the Vespa?

Shootout: England fans turn to drink after early Euro exit

Alan’s green birthday: Hamming it up for the gallery

Harry Potter in town, not: Kids mesmorised by Celeste’s hip hop show at Gasolina

Pacharan master class: At Rick Stein’s gourmet food evening

Not him again: Simply unbelievable:

scrapbook Tim taking every opportunity to A hip hop star holds his pose get his mugshot in Scrapbook for the camera at Gasolina

52 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 scrapbook Funky beats: Doing the can can: DJ Illest gets the party kicking at K West Smiling for the camera: K West and sponsors of At the Operation Smile charity auction their birthday bash

Barbie anyone?: New restaurant opening at Pontoon

All decked up: Fine dining at Pontoon scrapbook

Happy lovely funky smiling drinking ... : Peace: Crowded house: Happy Talkin’ trio ... at Talkin No room to groove as the HLLYLT band comes to Talkin

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 53 coffee filter Cafe Fresco 2 54 Coffee Filter Café Guide 54 Key to symbols And then A/C Air Conditioning Free wireless Internet service there were ChildSafe® Art Café Has a vintage vibe with comfortable mis- 84 Street 108 Tel: 012 834 517 matched sofas and antique-look décor. A Elegant bistrot and art gallery in the style small lunch menu is available along with an of an European coffee house that opened extensive tea and coffee menu. A/C early January. German flame cakes and Two eau de vie as specialities. Open from 11am Living Room Branching out from the riverfront to NGO to 11pm. A/C 9 Street 306 Tel: 023 726 139 and expat land, Café Fresco’s second outlet Café Fresco Set in a stylish villa, Living Room has 363 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 217 041 healthy salads and snack plates, plus a is a clean, white, modern addition to the This outlet at the base of the FCC sells great tea and coffee menu. Has a kid’s strong Illy coffee and mix-and-match sand- playroom and baby changeroom. Uses neighourbood. Words by Liz Ledden. wiches. The interior has a slight retro 70s organic and fair trade produce. Open 7am feel to it and there is a pleasant outside to 6.30pm (or 9pm on weekends), closed seating area. Open 8am to 8pm. Second Mondays. outlet now open on Street 51. A/C The Melting Pot Café Yejj 168 Street 155 170 Street 450, (near the Russian Market) Tel: 092 223 301 Tel: 012 543 360 Cute, cosy café with Parisian owners Quiet, cosy café serving bistro-style located diagonally across from the Russian western cuisine, with extensive range of Market’s NYEMO. Good coffee and lunch coffees. Good pasta dishes, a wide selec- spot specialising in French crepes. Open tion of pannini and wraps and fabulous 8am to 5.30pm. cheesecake make this an ideal spot to escape the bustle of the nearby Russian The Deli Market. Air-conditioned dining upstairs. 13 Street 178 Open every day from 8am to 5pm. A/C Tel: 012 851 234 Chic delicatessen, bakery and small Fizz restaurant serving excellent bread and 42 Street 178 Tel: 015 609 909 pastries. Take-away menu includes sand- Possibly the first authentic juice bar in wiches from US$2.50 and salads from town. An excellent range of original juices US$3. Open from 6.30am to 10pm (closed Double Vision Will the new Frescos prove as popular as the original? is on offer as well as some Khmer and Thai Sundays). A/C dishes. Also has coffee and ice cream. The first thing that Along with the cakes, cookies, The Shop stands out upon entering Café slices and chocolate goodness on Jars of Clay 39 Street 240 Tel: 023 986 964 39 Street 155 Tel: 023 300 281 Fresco’s latest incarnation is display, a new dessert option is Stylish, with a wide range of fresh bread, Close to the Russian market this small café tempting patisseries and juices, excellent the large counter displaying on offer in the form of ice cream has a good range of cakes and desserts, salads and sandwiches. Crowded at new lunch options and mouth sundaes. Ranging from US$5 to teas and coffees. Makes birthday cakes. lunchtime, but the small, cool courtyard watering desserts. With a more US$5.50 and featuring innova- at the back creates a perfect haven from Java Café & Gallery the sun. Open 7am to 7pm Monday to extensive range on offer than tive sweet combinations, there’s 56 Sihanouk Boulevard Tel: 023 987 420 Saturday and 7am to 3pm Sunday. the original Fresco, there are also a simple ice cream in a Great coffees, salads, mix-and-match sandwiches and juices served in an Two Fish Gallery Café salads (from a tasty three tomato waffle cone option if not wanting elegant setting. IThe relaxed inside dining 9 Street 278 T salad to a baby potato with crab to go all out. area has a small gallery attached to it. el: 016 368 700 concoction), to quiches, to flaky The café has an interesting Open 7am to 10pm. A/C www.twofish-gallerycafe.com Gallery with three small exhibition spaces baklava and decadent chocolate layout, with outdoor seating at Java Tea Room and café. Opened in September 2006, the truffles (US$0.50 each). While the the front and side, and upstairs Monument Books, 111 Norodom Blvd. café has a mixture of good juices, healthy original sandwich, smoothie and on an open air, covered patio. The Second outlet of the popular Java Café food created with the freshest of ingredi- coffee menu remains the same as indoor seating is arranged in dif- located in the rear of Monument Books. ents and home-style Taiwanese cuisine. the original café’s, there are new ferent corners and pockets with N° 168A – Street 155 additions too. a separate room for the kids. It near Russian Market A hot food menu graces the comes complete with televisions, Open daily from 8H to 17H30 whiteboard and though the game consoles, board games, ral water ine – dishes weren’t yet available toys, a blackboard and tiny tables. m Ho h m it e during our visit, they will be by Catering more for the expat m w e a the time you read this. A little crowd than the original river- d coffee filter d a e

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spice and salt calamari with a atmosphere come the weekend.

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cucumber noodle and coriander Whichever is your scene, if it’s a T

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Then there’s a steak sandwich, Café Fresco is the perfect place. a an antipasto plate and much Café Fresco (2), Corner Streets Fresh fruit juice, Coffee, Tea, Milk shakes, more to tempt you away from a 51 & 306, Tel: 023 224 891. Open Panini, salads, Crêpes, Ice cream and Sorbet. US$4 sandwich. 7am to 7pm.

54 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 Quiz Night 55

Wellness Listings 56 leisure & wellness Leisure & Wellness Sports & Leisure 58 Quiz Nights Are you known for being full of useless facts? Always amazing your friends with your extensive knowledge of 16th Century clavichords? Then a pub quiz could very well be the one thing that has been missing from your life. Words by Naomi Robinson.

Gym Bar: Punters waiting for a different kind of kick-off Talkin: The most interractive quiz in town Here is how it works. You correct answer. A favourite is the around between teams and average man’s body to gleefully arrive at the pub, order yourself a free drinks round. At the end of marked. Throughout the night emit a specific testosterone based drink, pay your US$1 fee and ac- the round one special question players are encouraged to pur- aroma, that any woman entering quire an answer sheet. Players can is asked, the team to correctly chase raffle tickets to win a bottle the bar can immediately detect. compile themselves into teams or, answer the question first gets a of Jim Beam or Smirnoff Vodka. That being said, on quiz nights, if you’re feeling brave, you can be free round of drinks. The proceeds from the raffle are much like any other night, the a ‘lone-man’ team. The first thing After the quiz is completed, donated to the Phnom Tamao bar is almost entirely full of you must do is come up with the answer sheets are tallied by Wildlife Reserve. men – with the exception of lone a team name – the stranger the a panel of ISPP teachers and the For a twist on the usual and female “Glue Sniffing Gangster better. Something like ‘The Glue winning team is awarded the a real treat for live music fans, Monkeys” team. Sniffing Gangster Monkeys’ is pot, which is usually around the quiz is polished off with a It costs US$1 to play and the sure to give you that needed edge. US$50 to US$60. QuizMaster musical question featuring an prize is a US$20 bar tab. Randal, Dave then poses the Super Jack- a capella performed by Koda, the bar’s owner, rattles through Quizzin a Stranger pot question. It costs 2,000 riel to a member of the staff who is 50 questions based on subjects Talkin to a Stranger hosts by far play and the question is usually blessed with a beautiful voice. as diverse as history, geography the liveliest, most interactive extremely obscure. So the jack- Ash and Barb, the friendly sports, music, current events quiz night in town. The quizzes pot’s kitty tends to roll over from restaurant owners encourage and pop culture to name a few. are created and brilliantly MCd quiz night to quiz night and of- anyone to step up to the roll of One of the more lively questions by Quizmaster Dave Preece, an ten gets to be as large as a couple Quizmaster. If you’re willing to asked last month was “What is ISPP English literature teacher hundred dollars before someone write the quiz and MC the event the name of the British children’s who has been crafting quizzes finally gets the question right. you will be rewarded with free comic strip that featured char- for years. food and drinks all night. acters such as Master Bates, Ben The game is split up into four Smarter Than a Gecko Dover, and Tom the Cabin Boy?” rounds and each round has its This Lakeside bar, a favourite Working Out the Gray Matter Talking to a Stranger’s ‘Talk- own theme. These vary widely with tourists and expats alike, The Gym Bar has been running ing Heads Trivia Tuesday’ starts from geography to pop culture holds Phnom Penh’s longest their quiz night bi-weekly for at 8pm. Best to call ahead and to picture trivia. All four themes running quiz night. Much like two years. The bar has numerous reserve a table. are announced at the beginning Talkin to a Stranger, the Lazy TV screens, all displaying differ- Lazy Gecko Quiz Night, of each night and each team Gecko’s Quiz format is broken ent sporting events and the walls Thursdays from 8.30pm to 10.00pm. picks which round will be their into four rounds with four dif- covered from floor to ceiling in Gym Bar is every Tuesday night ‘Joker Round’ in which they ferent themes. After each round football jerseys. The combina- at 9pm and runs until 10.30pm - receive double points for each the answer sheets are shuffled tion of these things causes the answer Captain Pugwash.

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 55 leisure & wellness

SOS Dental Clinic per month or US$7 per day. Open from 161 Street 51, 6am to 10pm. Tel: 023 216 911 Leisure & Wellness International quality dental clinic, fully VIP Club equipped with the latest equipment in- Norodom Boulevard, Tel: 023 993 535 U-Care Pharmacy cluding dental cameras. US Large sports complex with gym, outdoor Amusement 26-28 Sothearos Bvd. Tel: 023 222 499 dentist explains the process of what swimming pools, sauna, steam room and Kambol Cart Raceway 14 Sihanouk Bvd. Tel: 023 224 099 is going on with your teeth and has multi- tennis courts. US$5 per day for use of all Tel: 012 232 332 High quality western-style chemist and lingual staff. facilities (except tennis which is US$7 per A few kilometers west of the airport is pharmacy that sells the full range of hour). Open from 6am to 9pm. Phnom Penh’s flashiest go-cart track. beauty products, including international

Leisure & Wellness Education Boasting a 900m international standard brands. Open 8am to 10pm. Medical size track complete with hairpin turns, a Khmer School cart costs US$7 for a 10-minute round. for Expats and Travellers American Medical Center The track can also be rented by the hour Classes 35 Street 288 Tel: 012 867 117 Ground Floor Cambodiana Hotel (US$150) half-day (US$500) or the entire Capoiera Khmer-language lessons given on a 313 Sisowath Quay day (US$900). Gasolina, 56-58 Street 57 one-to-one tuition basis only, costing Tel: 023 991 863 Tel: 012 810 993 / 011 871 071 US$10 per hour, a typical course lasts for www.amc-cambodia.com Parkway Square Lessons in this rhythmic Brazilian martial 30 hours. Operated by an American surgeon, can 113 Mao Tse Tung Blvd art, a cross between dance and martial arrange emergency evacuation. Tel: 023 982 928 arts, cost US$2 each and are held every Khmer School of Language In addition to being a shopping centre, Tuesday and Thursday from 6.30pm to 52G Street 454 Tel: 023 213 047 International SOS Medical Clinic Parkway has a ten-pin bowling alley with 8pm. Contact either Xavier or Michel on Khmer-language lessons given at the 161 Street 51, lanes costing between US$6 and US$9 one of the above telephone numbers. school for US$4 per hour or for US$5 in Tel: 023 216 911 per hour, depending upon the time of day. the privacy of your own home or office. All Globally renowned provider of medical It also has a dodgem track, for those who Cooking Classes the teachers are experienced and trained assistance and international health care. haven’t had enough of close shaves on Frizz Café, 335 Sisowath Quay at the school. Offers emergency repatriation services the streets of Phnom Penh. Tel: 023 22 09 53 and has multilingual staff. Khmer cookery lessons each day, except Phnom Penh Water Park Gyms Sundays. The one-day course (US$20), Jenevieve Nowakowski 50 Street 110 limited to 10 people, includes a market Clark Hatch Fitness Centre Tel: 012 723 169 Tel: 023 881 008 tour, an introduction to Cambodian herbs Intercontinental Hotel Larger than life qualified healer and reiki Traditional mix of slides and wave pools. and ingredients, and a 16-page colour 3/F Mao Tse Tung Boulevard master who works by appointment only. Entrance is US$2 weekdays (US$3 recipe book. at weekends). Open from 9.30am to Tel: 011 380 769 Naga Clinic 5.30pm. Well-equiped fitness centre run by a Photography Workshops regional gym company that even has a 11 Street 254,Tel: 023 211 300 Pontoon, Sisowath Quay Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park rowing machine. Membership is US$90 French-Khmer run clinic with a good end Street 108, Tel: 092 526 706 per month or US$10 per day (US$15 at reputation and impressive range of Phnom Tamao, www.nathanhortonphotography.com weekends). Open 6am to 10pm (week- modern facilities. Approximately 44 kilometres away from Daily drop-in workshops covering techni- days), 8am to 8pm (weekends) the capital along Highway 2, and then cal and creative considerations in the on a 6-kilometre track, lies Cambodia’s Personal Counselling Service context of travel photography. US$25 or Fitness One Tel: 023 211 300 best wildlife centre. All the animals are US$20 if booked in advance. either rescued from traders or bred at Himawari Hotel, [email protected] the centre. Many of the animals are 313 Sisowath Quay Qualified British counsellor who works by critically endangered. Animals include Scuba Nation Dive Center Tel: 023 214 555 appointment only. tigers, elephants, sun & black bears, 20 Street 278 Small, well-equipped gym with outdoor many species of waterfowl, samba dears Tel: 012 715 785 swimming pool. US$6 per day for use and Siamese crocodiles. Open from 8am Learn to scuba dive in Phnom Penh. The of pool or US$10 for pool, gym, steam Optics to 4pm, the entrance fee is US$5 for academic part of the course takes place room and jacuzzi. Prices rise to US$8 and Eye Care in the Plaza Hotel pool, while the real adults and US$2 for children (2,000 and US$12 at weekends. 166 Norodom Bvd., Tel: 016 556 602 diving is over a weekend in Sihanoukville. 1,000 riel for Khmer adults and children Modern opticians with ophthalmologists Total cost for a course is US$350. respectively). Raffles Amrita Spa on hand to check prescriptions. Have an Raffles Le Royal Hotel, interesting range of glasses and lenses. Sorya Centre Yoga & Tai Chi Street 92 Frames from under US$100. Corner Street 63 & 142 Gasolina, 56-58 Street 57 Tel: 023 981 888 The top floor of Phnom Penh’s original Tel: 012 373 009 Modern gym and pool in Phnom Penh’s Grand Optics shopping centre has a rink devoted to Classes run every week. Call for details of most elegant hotel. Use of gym, pool, 71 & 75 Norodom Bvd. roller-skating and roller-blading. Hiring the times and prices. sauna and jacuzzi costs US$10 weekdays Tel: 023 213 585 skates or blades costs between US$1 (US$15 at weekends). Open from 6am Modern opticians with the latest equip- and US$2. Dental to 10pm. ment including a computerised eye test. Makes prescription glasses and contact Chemists European Dental Clinic Physique Club lenses at affordable prices. 160A Norodom Boulevard Hotel Cambodiana, Naga Pharmacy Centre Tel: 023 211 363 313 Sisowath Quay 413 Sisowath Quay French-run dental practice since 1994 Tel: 012 810 432 Pools Tel: 023 212 324 which provides full dental hygiene Most modern of the five-star fitness Asia Club centres with reasonable selection of International quality pharmacist and beau- services with modern equipment. Open 456 Monivong Bvd. Tel: 023 721 766 equipment, although has a small chang- ty store opposite the Cambodiana Hotel. 8am to 12pm and 2pm to 7pm (closed Beautiful swimming pool tucked around ing area. Membership is currently US$56 Has an impressive array of products. Sundays). the back of Man Han Lou Restaurant near

Tired, Stressed, Want to relax... Come to enjoy our professional Massages and Spas.

House No. 38, St. 57 Tel: (855) 23 222 846 E-mail: [email protected] www.champeispa.com Open daily 9am – 11pm

56 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 wellness

Caltex Bokor. Use of pool costs US$10 treatments US$6 to US$25. Open from Leisure & Wellness per day for either individuals or small 9am to 11pm. groups of people. Members (US$50 per month) also get a 15 percent discount Dermal Spa on both Man Han Lou Restaurant and 4C Street 57 Master Kang Health Care centre. Tel: 012 222 898 Spa offering beauty salon, foot massage Fitness One and body massage services. Specialises Himawari Hotel, in dermalogica skin and beauty products. 313 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 214 555 In-Style Outdoor hotel swimming costs $6 per day 63 Street 242 or US$10 for pool, gym, steam room and Tel: 023 214 621 Jacuzzi. Prices rice to US$8 and US$12 Set in beautiful villas, the lovely gardens at the weekend. and revitalising café that greet your entrance indicate that this is more than Raffles Amrita Spa just a spa. Full range of massages and Raffles Le Royal Hotel, beauty treatments with an emphasis on Street 92 the Balinese. Tel: 023 981 888 Attractive pool in Phnom Penh’s most el- Master Kang Health Care Centre egant hotel. Use of gym, pool, sauna and 456 Monivong Boulevard jacuzzi costs US$10 weekdays (US$15 at Tel: 023 721 765 86 mm x 59 mm weekends). Open from 6am to 10pm. Large health centre next to Man Han Lou Restaurant. Offers foot massage in either The Billabong public or private rooms downstairs, with 5 Street 158 both Chinese and oil massage (US$12 Tel: 023 223 703 per hour or US$20 per 2 hours) upstairs. www.thebillabonghotel.com Downstairs also has a grand piano which Sheltered garden hotel with an excellent is played in the evenings. outdoor swimming pool good both for lengths and relaxation. Daily usage costs Miss Care & Spa US$5 and Wi-Fi weighs in at US$5 per 4b Street 278 24 hours. Swimming hours from 8am to Tel: 023 221 130 8.30pm. Small beauty parlour and spa set on the Golden Street. Well-priced massages The Club at Northbridge range from US$7 to US$16 and beauty 1km off National Road 4 treatments are from US$4. (on the way to the airport) Punarnava Tel: 023 886 012 U-Care Phnom Penh : Ayurveda Centre Spa The international school has a pool - 26-28 Sothearos Blvd. (in front of National Museum) Hotel Cambodiana, costing US$5 per day. Membership of - Sihanouk Blvd. (in front of ANZ Royal Bank) the club is US$200 per family for three 313 Sisowath Quay U-Care Siem Reap : months or US$100 for individuals. Open Tel: 012 810 432 every day, there are also tennis courts and Traditional Indian-style Ayurveda massage - Old market Area (in front of pub street) a playground for kids. and healing that can provide relief to a - International Airport (departure area) range of physical ailments. All staff are - Angkor National Museum VIP Club professionally trained. Norodom Boulevard Tel: 023 993 535 Large, centrally located and popular Sawasdee Massage sports complex with gym, outdoor 6B Street 57 EUROPEAN DENTAL CLINIC swimming pools, sauna, steam room and Tel: 023 996 670 (European Management) tennis courts. US$5 per day for use of all Oil, Thai-style and foot massage are facilities (except tennis which is US$7 per available from trained masseuses in this hour). Open from 6am to 9pm. excellent parlour, which also does beauty 160A Norodom Blvd, Phnom Penh treatments. For a few dollars more than Kingdom of Cambodia the dorm-style mattress massages, you Spas can have the privacy of your own room. Amret Spa Massages start from US$13. 3 Street 57 Tel: 023 997 994 Seeing Hands Massage European & Cambodian Stylish spa with treatments in individual 6 Street 95, 209, 246, rooms. Also has rooms for couples with 253 Street 53 Dentists Jacuzzi. Massages from US$8 to US$30. Tel: 016 856 188 Open from 9am to 9pm. String of massage parlours where the service is provided by the blind at a very Aziadee reasonable price. TOTAL DENTAL CARE 16AB Street 282 & Orthodontic Treatment Tel: 023 996 921 Senses Salon & Spa Very relaxing, air-conditioned massage 157 Sisowath Quay parlour with individual rooms. Massages Tel: 023 990 244 start from US$8, with aromatherapy from Up-market spa set on the riverfront that US$18. offers the full range of beauty treatments as well as both Thai and oil massages. Bliss GENTLE TREATMENT 29 Street 240 Sports General Tel: 023 215 754 GENTLE PRICE Health spa at the back and upstairs in Cambodian Federation of Rugby QUALITY GUARANTEED this beautiful French colonial building. cambodianfederationofrugby.com Have a massage, facial, body scrub or Proper 15-a-side rugby league with four simply wallow in the beautiful flower bath. senior teams as well as kid’s touch and Massages start from US$20, facials from women’s rugby teams. Contact Larry Open Monday to Saturday US$35 and packages range from US$40 at [email protected] for to US$75. Open 9am to 9pm, closed more details. 8.00 am-12.00pm / 2.00pm-7.00pm Monday. Cambodia Golf & Country Club Secretary : 012 986 024 / 012 854 408 Champei Spa & Salon Route 4 Tel: 023 363 666 092 804 471 38 Street 57 International standard, 18-hole golf Tel: 012 670 939 course, which has green fees of US$43 Emergency : 016 832 159 / 012 893 174 www.champeispa.com for a round. Beautiful spa just across the road from [email protected] the first Garden Center Café. Has a full Cricket range of massages from US$8 and body Infrequent fun games played at a

#06 June 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 57 leisure & wellness

school off Street 360, near Street 63, on Sunday mornings. No equipment required and little prior knowledge of the rules is also ok. Cost is US$5 LAURA WATSON: STRESS which includes drink and barbecue. Con- tact Majid at Monsoon Wine Bar Living overseas can be on 016 355 867. exciting, invigorating, and Football: The Bayon Wanderers challenging. Those that www.bayonwanderers.com choose an expat life often Mixed Khmer and western team. leisure & wellness Training sessions at the International enjoy the edge and buzz that School of Phnom Penh on Tuesdays come along with new environ- from 5pm and Thursdays from ments and new experiences 6.30pm. Cost is from US$1 to US$15. Contact Billy Barnaart and push their mind and body on 012 803 040. to the limit. Long working hours, long social hours, Hash House Harriers The Hash meets at the railway station lack of sleep, high alcohol every Sunday at 2.45pm. An ideal way intake, a poor diet and lack to see the countryside either walking or running, and then to make a public of exercise all take their toll. (school) exhibition of yourself. Costs Most people can cope quite US$5 for the pleasure. Contact 012 832 well for some time, months or 509 for details. even a couple of years. But adrenal glands create the alcohol and caffeine can Pangolins Rugby Club do not underestimate the ef- opposite situation to that make a huge difference. Expat rugby team that plays others fect that living with constant intended and ‘burn out’ the Take whatever downtime in the region. Also has female rugby team called the Apsaras. Contact Tim stress can have on your body. body’s stress responses. you can including weekends, Smyth on 012 810 594. If you are reaching your This results in your brain holidays and lunch-breaks. limit for stress then making functioning less well, hor- Do not fall into the trap of Royal Cambodia Phnom Penh Golf Club minor decisions may seem monal imbalances, increased working through your week- National Road 4 difficult, you feel tired all the blood pressure and a de- ends and holidays because The other international standard golf time yet can’t sleep, feel tear- pressed immune system. there is so much to do. You course that charges US$40 for 18 holes (weekdays). ful for no reason and you may You find it difficult to concen- will be far more efficient and have multiple unexplained trate, suffer from insomnia effective if you are properly minor physical complaints. and start to pick up some rested. Get enough sleep. Tennis viral infections. The ultimate Make time for something you The Club at Northbridge end point of all this un- really enjoy – a dance class, 1km off national Road 4 The science of stress Tel: 023 886 012 ‘Stress’ is the body’s natural checked stress is some level music, art or laughter. Use of the excellent tennis court costs response to a potentially of burn out, breakdown or You do not need to be teeto- US$2.50 per person per hour. Book in harmful situation or stimulus. depression. Increased blood tal and live like a monk to have advance. If a tiger chases you in the pressure and stress is a a healthy relationship with Narmada Sports Centre jungle you need a burst of recipe for heart disease and stress. You just need to give Imperial Garden Villa & Hotel rapid action adrenaline to get strokes in later life. There yourself a break, get enough 315 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 219 991 Ext. 1021 your heart rate pumping and is even some evidence that alcohol-free sleep, limit your Daily use of the tennis courts plus other your legs running fast even chronic stress can have a working hours, and have facilities including sauna, pool and gym before you have really had a negative effect on cell turn- some days where you are in a costs US$7 during the week and US$9 at weekends. Monthly membership is chance to react – the ‘fight- over and may be a contribut- relaxed recovery mode. US$72. or-flight response’. ing factor in the development Lastly some of these symp- In addition to an increased of some cancers. toms of chronic stress may VIP Sport Club also be symptoms of a disease Norodom Boulevard heart rate your blood pres- Tel: 023 993 535 sure is increased, blood How to avoid burn-out process. It is worth discuss- Membership to the sports club which flow to muscles increases The crucial element is recov- ing them with your physician. includes usage of the tennis courts is US$40 per month. The club also sells and pupils dilate. Another ery. Your body needs time before assuming it is stress. coupons for single and repetitive visits. stress hormone cortisol is to recover from stress in the Laura Watson is a Hourly rate is US$7. released which helps to free same way that an athlete uses general practitioner at the rest and recovery time to allow International SOS Medical L’Imprévu Hotel up glucose in your muscles, National Road No. 1 decreases your sensitivity to their muscles to absorb extra Clinic in Phnom Penh. (7km after Monivong Bridge) pain and gives your immune exercise and grow stronger. For more information Tel: 024 390 405 system a quick boost. Recovery can take many please mail sue.kemp@ Day rates start at US$13 for a fan-cooled indoor court and rise to US$20 for a It’s pretty rare to be at- forms. One of the best is internationalsos.com. court with aircon. Usage includes access tacked by a tiger in most moderate exercise such as to the hotel’s other facilities. towns in Cambodia yet walking, swimming, jogging, your body responds to the tennis or aerobics. Your body various stressful situations will be stretched and ready in your daily life in a very for sleep by the evening and similar way. your mind will have had a The stress response is not chance to switch off. Yoga, in itself damaging. What is meditation, and massage can damaging is repeated and be very helpful. multiple bouts of this stress Following a balanced low response without the chance fat diet with plenty of fruit and for the body to recover and vegetables, lots of protein regain its normal physiologi- and slow release carbohy- cal functioning. In effect your drates, together with minimal

58 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 Paul Stewart 59 Listings 63 Arts Diary 60 Hot off the Press 63 Book Worm 62 Top of the Bops 64 Kaleidoscope World Books 62 Billboard 64 Angkor through 360 degrees Photographer Paul Stewart has created a virtual tour of the temples of Angkor. He talks with Charis Shafer about this and his next project.

could quickly turn a tourist towards Angkor for their next trip. Get ‘em off

Brand from all Angles the road and The applications for an interactive tour like this should be in the boat clear to anyone who has tried kaleidoscope to explain the beauty of Angkor Paul laments the recent under- to a friend or relative. While utilisation of natural waterways gesticulating wildly may have such as the Mekong. His mapping an effect, tour companies and project could precede a rediscovery hoteliers want something of the river as a source of viable slightly classier to show off income for those who live along its the glories of Javayarman VII’s banks. “I think it has commercial magnificent abode. possibility,” he ventures. “It does actually work,” Paul According to him at the mo- insists. He suggests it could be ment, there is little encourage- a good investment for those in ment for the local economies the hospitality industry, either along the river. He envisions as part of tour gift packages or a time when individuals and branded by certain hotels and small businesses could be listed sold as a souvenir. on his virtual tour encouraging Despite his emphasis on visitors to explore and stimulate the commercial potential of local economies. his Angkor project, a material return on his investment is not The Many-Headed Naga what Paul is primarily seeking “It really is an idea,” he says through his work. of his plan to promote regional “I want it to be popular,” he growth along the renowned says of his virtual tour. “I hope river. “Brand the Mekong,” he the kids are selling them in the says almost as a mantra. Though streets.” he still has to explore farther up The joy of creation is what into China, this is a challenge he really drives Paul. This can be is eager to meet. “Crazy river up there,” he warns. “Can’t really Paul Stewart seen both in the Angkor project Creator of an interactive journey through Angkor and also with his more personal get that close to it,” he says like “I’ve had more questions image, where the viewer con- project to create the same virtual its inaccessibility is a gauntlet than answers in Cambodia,” trols movement. tour of another of the region’s someone has thrown down Paul Stewart says with a smile. most majestic features. specifically for him. This former travel company I hope the kids “It is a many-headed hydra – I employee and commercial From Mythical Mouth to should say Naga,” he muses. photographer must have found are selling them in Virtual Source “No one is in charge.” He speaks the equivocal nature of Cambo- “I want to do the whole world!” of the lack of regulation along dia to his liking. He has been in the streets he says ambitiously before tak- the meandering river. This is Cambodia since 2003. ing a moment’s thought. “Well, hardly a warning for Paul, more “Everybody does Angkor, but Easy Interactive Access not me.” However, he does envi- like an invitation. I’ve never seen it done like this,” The nature of the hospitality sion a future where there could The project still needs invest- he says, referring to his most industry is constantly evolving, be virtual online photographic ment. “I’ve got another 2,000 recent Cambodia-based passion according to Paul. “Everyone access to many of the world’s kilometres to go!” he says, obvi- of shooting 360-degree virtual is going online,” he says. Now more remote regions. ously enthusiastic to continue. tours of Angkor Wat and the sur- even grandparents are book- His Mekong project is one His ultimate goal is to rounding temples. ing all their own tours through step towards this future. “To “get ‘em off the road and in “It is really quite easy to do,” online travel sites. Tourists are illustrate the Mekong from the boat,” he says of tourists he reports modestly, if time and making more impulse purchases. mouth to source,” is how he exploring Southeast Asia. technology were no barrier. Im- “Buying the day before or two describes his ambitious project. “And pay a fisherman for the ages are shot in succession and days before,” is not an uncom- He has travelled through Laos, privilege,” he adds. “There’s then ‘stitched’ together using mon practice for these Internet- Vietnam and Cambodia docu- plenty of room on the river.” specialised software. The result savvy travellers, he explains. A menting the path of the Mekong For more information visit Paul’s is a photo-realistic 360-degree virtual tour readily accessible in 360 degrees. website: www.mouthtosource.net.

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 59 kaleidoscope

Arts Diary: Cambodian Regional Events

“Flow” From the Art Rebels recent show at Gasolina opening this month VINCENT BROUSTET ASKANADI Works by the French artist will kaleidoscope A series of acrylic paintings on be on display at Jasmine Res- Lino canvas by the Sumatran artist taurant, Kampot on Dec. 15. The artist happy with his recent work at Gasolina will be shown at the Art Café The opening starts at 7pm and Entrance is US$5 for adults and the FCC Phnom Penh on Dec. from Dec. 3 to Jan. 31. includes live painting. For more US$3 for children. 8 at 9pm. details about the artist visit: FACES OF THE CARDAMOMS http://www.artaway.blogspot. COMIC BOOK LAUNCH BOSBAPANH An exhibition of photography com/ Em Satya’s Flower of Bat- The ten-year-old soprano is taken by New Zealand environ- tambang will be launched on launching her second album mentalist Wayne McCallum will EVENTS & PERFORMANCES Dec. 11 at the Meta House with entitled Dreams in a concert be at the Two Fish Gallery Café BEAT PRESSER special guests from the Cam- with ten young instructors from Nov. 30 to Dec. 20. The Meta House hosts an eve- bodian comic art scene. and graduates from the Royal ning with the Swiss photogra- University of Fine Arts at the GAZE pher Beat Presser on Dec. 19 FROM SPIDERS TO WATER Chaktomuk Hall on Dec. 21 at An exhibition of photographs from 7pm. The photographer LILLIES 7pm. Ticket prices are US$2 by Alexandre Maubacq will be will also have a workshop with A new cookbook produced by for Cambodians and US$3 for on display at Gasolina from Cambodian photographers, the Friend’s International featuring expats. Nov. 30 through December. results of which will be shown 42 recipes from Romdeng Res- at the Meta House on Dec. 27 taurant will be launched at the CAMBODIAN & WESTERN OASIS OF SILENCE at 6pm. For more information restaurant on Dec. 7 at 6pm. PERFORMING ARTS An exhibition of the photo- visit: www.beatpresser.com. The cost is US$35 (softback) or Music and dance perfor- graphs by Swiss freelance US$40 (hardback). mances at the Art Café at 7pm, photographer Beat Presser, CAMBODIAN PERFORMING unless otherwise stated. Dec. who was editor of Palm Beach ARTS MUSIC 1 – Chapei Dong Veng by Ouch News and The Village Cry will Sovanna Phum has weekly per- BACKSLIDERS Savy; Dec. 2, 9, 16 & 23 at 5pm be on show at the FCC Phnom formances of shadow puppetry The Australian blues band – Festive Advent music; Dec. Penh from Dec. 6 and at the and traditional dance, each will be performing at the FCC 7 – Music of the Ayai; Dec. 8 – Meta House from Dec. 27. Friday and Saturday at 7.30pm. Angkor on Dec. 7 at 9pm and Left Field Ramblers, hommage

two ﬁsh gallery café

Open for lunch, dinner & private parties (closed Mondays)

See the art, taste the food Faces of the Cardamoms by Wayne McCallum November 20 – December 20

#9 Street 278, Phnom Penh Tel. 016-368 700 www.twoﬁsh-gallerycafe.com

60 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 kaleidoscope to Bob Dylan; Dec. 14 – Celtic JAVIER AREAN: NEW WORKS Blues by Juliane; Dec. 15 – A selection of new works by Apsara dance; Dec. 21 – Royal the Mexican artist will be on Mahoorie music; Dec. 22 – display at Java Café & Gallery Gospel music by the Left Field from Nov. 7 to Dec. 30. Ramblers; Dec. 24 – Holy Night, candle light & Baroque MEAN RUP MEAN TUK masters; Dec. 25 – Xmas lunch, Group exhibition featuring 20 authentic table music from the artists from different nationali- 17th century; and Xmas dinner, ties continues until Dec. 20 at the music of Mozart; Dec. 31 – the Department of Plastic Arts, New Years Eve Party: at 8pm Ministry of Culture, Street 63. music of the Ayai and at 11pm Celtic Folk & Blues. REYUM INSTITUTE Exhibition of 15 graduates CAMBODIAN LIVING ARTS from the Reyum Art School Live concert by the Cambodian continues at the Reyum Gallery Javier Arean With Dana Langlois at his recent opening

Living Arts at Meta House on through December. kaleidoscope Dec. 12. popcorn and CocaCola. This – Eraserhead; Dec. 14 – The month’s showings are: Dec. Aristocrats (2005 documenta- ONGOING: SIEM REAP INDIE ROCK CONCERT 1 – Easy Rider; Dec. 8 – The ry about a joke not the Disney MCDERMOTT GALLERY I The German band Diva Inter- MagnificentS even; Dec. 15 animation); Dec. 15 – Stay- John McDermott’s “Reverie: national and Bear-Garden from – Gone with the Wind; Dec. ing Single When, and Three Images of Angkor” and Kenro Thailand will appear at the 22 – High Noon; Dec. 29 – It’s a Days in Phnom Penh; Dec. 16 Izu’s “Passage to Angkor” con- Bopha Restaurant, Sisowath Wonderful Life. – Hearts of Darkness (docu- tinue at the McDermott Gallery Quay on Dec. 1 from 8pm in mentary); Dec. 28 – Edge City; I, FCC Complex. what the organisers claim is FACES OF THE CARDAMOMS Dec. 29 – Nice Hat!; Dec. 12 – the first international Indie rock A screening of the documen- The Last Emperor. MCDERMOTT GALLERY II concert in Phnom Penh. tary by Wayne McCallum will An exhibition of photographs be at the Two Fish Gallery Café SATURDAY AFTERNOON AT by Polish photographer PAUL UBANA JONES on Dec. 13 at 6.30 pm. THE MOVIES Tomasz Gudzowaty, Filipina Paul Ubana Jones will play live at Free classic international films fine art photographer and the FCC Angkor on Dec. 10 & 11 ROOFTOP CINEMA @ META- are shown every Saturday at musician Wawi Navarozza, and FCC Phnom Penh on Dec. HOUSE 3pm (unless otherwise stated) and the Cambodian arts 14 & 15 (all gigs start at 9pm). Each month the Meta House at the Srey Dim Conference group Stiev Selepak or “Art shows films and documenta- Hall, Pannasastra University, Rebels” will continue at the THOM THOM ries at 7pm. German films are South Campus, 184 Norodom McDermott Gallery II, Old The Cambodian and French shown each Thursday night, Blvd. Dec. 1 – Brazil (1985) Market Gallery until the end rock band, Thom Thom, will international documentaries (Terry Gilliam – Restored Direc- of January. play their first unplugged ses- on Fridays, documentaries tor’s Cut); Dec. 8 – Saturday sion at the Meta House on Dec. about Cambodia on Satur- Night and Sunday Morning SELF 5 at 7pm. For more informa- days and movies on Sundays. (1961) (Karel Reisz); Dec. 15 at Self-portraits by Cambodian tion on the band visit: www. This month’s offerings are: 2.30pm – Lagaan: Once Upon a artists will be on show at the Art- khmerthomthom.com. Dec. 2 – Days of Being Wild; Time in India (2002) (Ashutosh house from Nov. 29 to Dec. 27. Dec. 4 – Video art screening Gowariker). FILM by Danius Kesminas; Dec. YEAR OF THE GOLDEN PIG CINEMA UNDER THE STARS 6 – Epstein’s Night; Dec. ONGOING: PHNOM PENH Exhibition of paintings and Raffles Hotel Le Royal presents 7 – The Sounds of Silents; FLOWER OF BATTAMBANG sculptures by Vincent Broustet classic movies poolside on Dec. 8 – Looking Back: Comics and visual art by Em and Sasha Constable runs at the Saturday nights at 7.30pm. Looking Ahead; Dec. 9 – In Satya continues at the Meta Alliance Cafe/Art Lodge in Siem Cost is US$12 including The Mood For Love; Dec. 13 House until Dec. 12. Reap through to Dec. 30.

Askanadi / Sumatra-Indonesia Acrylic on Canvas 3 december – 31 january

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 61 kaleidoscope Book Worm On the world stage Coral Glennie takes a look at a selection of books The Quiet Girl Young Stalin available at Phnom Penh’s Monument Books. Peter HØeg, Nadia Simon Sebag Montefiore, Christensen (Translator), Knopf Farrar, Straus and Giroux Noted historian Simon The pleasures of Peter Sebag Montefiore’s The Hoeg’s Smilla’s Sense of Court of the Red Tsar was Snow were almost innumer- an incredibly detailed and able, bringing together as moving look at Stalin’s years it did emotional upheaval, in power. Now he turns his fascinating scientific details attention to the early years and dramatic plot twists that of Stalin’s life, and the fac- had an almost physical ef- tors that turned a child into fect on the reader. The Quiet one of history’s greatest NEW IN CAMBODIA in this order. Because Buddha Girl, Hoeg’s newest novel, monsters. Stalin’s version Buddha – wished to award these twelve looks to be in the same of his past, suitably revised A Story of Enlightenment animals, he named a year after genre of literary thriller. It to meet his own political Deepak Chopra, Harper. US$ 22.50 each of them, and whoever was starts off with an oddball requirements, is dismissed; born during that year would Your Chinese Horoscope 2008 hero, Kaspar Krone, a circus in its place is a finely inherit some of the personality Neil Somerville, Harper Element, clown who loves classi- researched story of Stalin’s traits of that animal. 2008 will be US$18 cal music and gambling; poverty-stricken upbringing, the year of the rat, characterised adds an order of nuns and training as a priest (!) and kaleidoscope From Third World to First, The by innovation. For those born in a gaggle of children with early criminal tendencies. Singapore Story 1965 – 2000 this year it is a time of opportu- supernatural abilities; and Lee Kwan Yew, Harper Collins, nity to make use of your personal incorporates the same Exit Ghost US$32 skills. An intriguing read! electrifying, action-movie Philip Roth, Jonathan Cape From Third World to First, The The philosophy presented sequences. Possibly America’s most Singapore Story 1965 – 2000 is a lauded living author, Philip in Chopra’s book, Buddha – A long and detailed account by Lee Story of Enlightenment, is The Almost Moon Roth returns with his long- Kwan Yew of Singapore’s rise to Alice Sebold, Little, Brown time protagonist Nathan that Buddha wanted to gain a world power from its colonial Helen Knightly has spent her Zuckerman. Roth’s alter enlightenment but not to achieve legacy and the devastating ef- life caring for her husband, ego, Zuckerman is a writer the status of a revered personal- fects of the Second World War. her children, and most returning to New York post- ity. When Buddha spoke about Lee’s unapologetic, uncompro- taxingly, her agoraphobic September 11th. He quickly himself he never talked about mising approach to political mother. At the beginning makes the acquaintance of either miracles or God. Chopra’s opponents, human rights and of The Almost Moon, she several other writers who novel is a fictional adventure democracy makes for compel- disengages herself from her force him to re-enter the keeping to the spiritual essence ling reading. Interestingly, for duties by taking the drastic world of other people, from of Buddha’s life. It describes the those who believe that Britain’s measure of suffocating her which he has isolated him- journey of this young prince who Margaret Thatcher was indeed mother and storing the body self for 11 years. This is the gave up his worldly inheritance the “Iron Lady” he found Indira in the basement. Taking final Zuckerman novel, and to discover his true calling. On Ghandi much less persuadable. place over only 24 hours, The will be of most interest to this journey Buddha experienced Lee’s undoubted economic and Almost Moon is a fast-paced, those who have read earlier extreme suffering and came close political skills in developing this horrifying examination of Roth, but a new work from to death. Chopra views Buddha’s small island state into a world- family relationships and the the master of American let- life journey as one that begins challenging economic power, asleep and ends awake. need to be juxtaposed against strain ‘duty’ can place on ters is always rewarding. Part of the mystery and the some of his more contentious those whom are most bound fun of reading any book about views, such as the development to perform it. From the au- Chinese horoscopes is search- of his social policy based on re- thor of The Lovely Bones. ing through the birth years of search into inherited intelligence. friends and families to see if The book covers wide-ranging their personal traits are traceable world events in Asia such as the in the Chinese birth signs. Your transfer of power from Britain Chinese Horoscope’s author Neil to China in Hong Kong. In the Somerville has made the infor- words of Kissinger, “Lee Kwan mation instantly accessible and is Yew is one of the seminal figures very popular in the west for his of Asia, and this book does writing on Chinese astrology. He justice to his extraordinary ac- describes the legend of how the complishments.” Chinese zodiac and astrological system came to pass. One day, Buddha invited all the animals in his kingdom to come to him, but only twelve animals attended. The first to arrive was the rat, then the ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, goat, monkey, rooster, dog and finally a pig, www.monument-books.com

62 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 kaleidoscope

Culture Hot off the Press Charis Shafer reviews a couple of recent releases in and positive works of iconic artist Stef. Cambodia and Vietnam. Cinemas Accepts all major credit cards. Open from Le Cinema 8am to 10pm. French Cultural Centre From Spiders to Water make a fantastic holiday gift 218 Street 184 Java Café & Gallery Lilies: Creative Cambodian for the foodie in the family. Tel: 023 213 124 56 Sihanouk Bvd.Tel: 023 987 420 Cooking with Friends Just across the road from the French Cul- www.javaarts.org tural Centre, this 100-seat cinema shows Phnom Penh’s contemporary art gallery Friends-International, Vietnam Zippos: American international art house and mainstream with regular exhibitions of Cambodian Give2Asia Soldiers’ Engravings and and international artists, as well as movies, often in their original language Stories (1965-1973) with French subtitles (marked as vastf in great coffee. Its website has extensive the programme). Also has a children’s details on what’s happening in Cambo- Bradford Edwards cinema on Saturday mornings at 10am. dia’s contemporary art scene. Membership costs $20 / year. Meta House Meta House 6 Street 264 Tel: 012 607 465 6 Street 264 Tel: 012 607 465 www.meta-house.com www.meta-house.com This multi-media arts centre was estab- Movie shorts and documentaries from lished by German Nico Mesterham and

Cambodia and the rest of Asia. Friday opened in January. Set on three floors it kaleidoscope nights focus on Asian works, Saturdays has regular exhibitions, interviews with on shorts and documentaries from filmmakers and short films. Also has a Cambodia, while Sundays are reserved very cool terrace bar with a barbecue. for feature films with an Asian theme. All moves start at 7pm. Only open Friday to Sunday. “As a good European, I was Reyum looking for comfort in food,” Galleries 47 Street 178 Sébastien Marot says of his Bradford Edwards first Tel: 023 217 149 reason to open his restau- became interested in Zippos Art Café Small gallery with regular exhibitions 84 Street 108 of Cambodian artists. Part of an NGO rant, Friends. He was also when he came to Vietnam. Tel: 012 834 517 established for preserving traditional and eager to explore the culinary It was a like a mountain that Elegant bistro and art gallery in the style contemporary Cambodian arts. of a European coffee house that opened history of Cambodia much needed to be climbed. Being early January. Has rotating exhibitions by Two Fish Gallery Café of which was lost during the the son of a man who had Khmer artists. Open from 11am to 11pm. 9 Street 278 Tel: 016 368 700 years of fighting.R omdeng, served a tour of Vietnam, he www.twofish-gallerycafe.com which opened in December was especially interested. FCC Phnom Penh Gallery with three small exhibition 363 Sisowath Quay spaces and café run by Taiwanese artist, 2005, is a restaurant that fea- The lighter was a favourite Tel: 023 724 014 David Huang, for Asian art. Opened in tures traditional Cambodian among American soldiers A series of temporary photographic exhi- September 2006, the café has a mixture dishes. Now, like Friends, it in Vietnam and many were bitions around the walls of this landmark of good juices, healthy food created with Phnom Penh building. the freshest of ingredients and home-style has its own cookbook. These engraved with sayings Taiwanese cuisine. meals are for the more ad- emblematic of the times. In French Cultural Centre venturous eater. The recipes the late 90s fakes made by 218 Street 184 Tel: 023 213 124 Performing Arts were a joint effort by Friends- industrious vendors began to Large space in the grand floor of the cultural centre, which has changing exhi- Amrita Performing Arts trained Cambodian chef, Sok replace the original lighters. bitions and also hosts special talks Tel: 023 22 0424 Chhong and Gustav Auer. Today, the originals are very and events. www.amritaperformingarts.org Sok’s heart-wrenching story scarce. “It’s impossible to Performance art company that puts on Gasolina both contemporary and classical music, of reaching his life-long goal find real ones inS aigon.” 56/58 Street 57 dance and theatre. Contact website to of becoming a chef is reason Edwards book documents Tel: 012 373 009 find out details of how to get involved or alone to purchase this book. these artefacts with respect Newly created exhibition space around times of their performances. For the gourmet also looking and humour. The adages on Gasolina’s curated by Cambodia’s best young female artist, Linda Saphan. Regu- Sovanna Phum Khmer to explore Khmer cuisine – the lighters at once nihilist lar revolving exhibitions. Art Association spiders included – this book and nostalgic, give a window 111 Street 360 Tel: 023 987 564 is a must have. As much a into what it must have been Happy Painting Gallery Theatre with performances of shadow FCC; Cambodiana Hotel; Airport puppetry, dance, circus, classical, folk coffee table book as a cook- like for a young soldier fight- www.happypainting.net and masked dances every Friday and book with gorgeous images ing an unpopular war on the Open since 1995, these popular aircon Saturday at 7.30pm (US$5 per adult, by Jim Mizerski, it would other side of the world. art shops sell the extremely colourful US$3 per child).

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 63 kaleidoscope

Top of the Bops Billboard: Album reviews by LOVE FM’s Julian Grant U.K CHRISTMAS NO 1’s OF THE 1980s 1980 There’s No One Quite The Eagles time. Some of his peers have Like Grandma Long Road Out of Eden queued up to be on this album. St Winifred’s School Choir 50 Cent, Justin Timberlake, Fall 1981 Don’t You Want Me Out Boy, the Hives and even The Human League Elton John make appearances. 1982 Save Your Love Renee & Renato The new single “Apologize” 1983 Only You The Flying Pickets featuring One Republic is the 1984 Do They Know It’s Christmas? Band Aid stand out moment because it 1985 Merry Christmas Everyone Shakin’ Stevens is so different. “Give It To Me” 1986 Reet Petite Jackie Wilson runs a close second. The “The 1987 Always On My Mind The Pet Shop Boys Way I Are”, is the only other 1988 Mistletoe & Wine Cliff Richard worth mention. As a whole it is 1989 Do They Know It’s Christmas? Band Aid II a bit of a mismatch. The genre Not surprisingly their first changes with every song so album of all new material in the end result sounds more U.S. TOP 10 BILLBOARD ALBUM CHART 01 Long Road Out Of Eden Eagles 28 years currently sits on top like a compilation than one 02 Blackout Britney Spears of the U.K. albums chart. The solid piece of work. If you are a 03 Carnival Ride Carrie Underwood 20-song, double album has Timbaland fan you’ll want this 04 Avenged Sevenfold an uplifting country-rock vibe for the beats, but that won’t be Avenged Sevenfold and contains a sufficient dose enough for most people. kaleidoscope 05 Everything Is Fine Josh Turner of famous Eagles harmonies 06 Raising Sand in their ‘new’ sound. How- Phil Spector Robert Plant /Alison Krauss ever, it’s not new. There’s no A Christmas Gift For You 07 Unbreakable Backstreet Boys denying it’s possible to hear 08 Noel Josh Groban echoes of everything from 09 The Best Of Andrea Bocelli: Vivere Andrea Bocelli “Lyin’ Eyes” to “Desperado” 10 Still Feels Good Rascal Flatts and it just doesn’t stand the test of time, coming over as an imitation of what we heard MOST REQUESTED SONGS AT LOVE FM, 97.5 01 Wait For Love Elliott Yamin in the 1970s when American 02 Someone D.H.T music was at its very worst. 03 Superwoman Paulini Half of the songs on the 04 Tattoo Jordon Sparks album contain some merit but 05 Easy Paula Deanda there are no gems. Tracks 2 06 When You’re Gone Avril Lavigne & 3, “How Long” and Busy Take some of the best voices 07 1973 James Blunt Being Fabulous” respectively in pop, add Phil Spector’s 08 Hey There Delilah The Plain White T’s offered some moments of en- “Wall of Sound” and you have, 09 Beautiful Girls Jojo couragement but it was short for me, the greatest Christmas 10 Beautiful Girls Sean Kingston lived. A single album of better album of all time. Released on than average songs surely Nov. 22, 1963, the same day JULIAN’S TOP PICK! – I Fell In Love With A DJ Che’Nelle would have been the logical as the assassination of JFK, choice? it flopped as radio stations ONE TO WATCH! – My Friends Stereophonics throughout the U.S. did not Timbaland play any Christmas songs These charts are provided by LOVE FM, 97.5 Shock Value during the period of mourn- Phnom Penh and are for the week ending November 11th. ing. Thankfully in subsequent years, the album has grown in popularity. “When you play the album it’s not music that comes through the speakers, its tinsel,” someone said describing it recently. The Crys- tals (“Da Doo Ron Ron”) sing a brilliant, energetic version of “Santa Claus Is Coming To Town” and The Ronettes Better known as the man be- (“Be My Baby”) are equally hind the music, with such hits brilliant on “Sleigh Ride”. as Nelly Furtado’s “Promiscu- The only original song on the ous Girl” and more or less album is “Christmas (Baby every song on Justin Timber- Please Come Home)” sung by lake’s current album, Tim- Darlene Love. This album not baland is currently regarded only captures the essence of as one the most successful the Christmas spirit, it is also Hip Hop producers of all a pop masterpiece.

64 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 shopping Christmas decorations 65 Shopping Shopping Guide 66 Deck the Halls Whether a believer or a ‘bah humbug’, you cannot deny that Christmas is approaching. For some Phnom Penh residents wanting to create a little Christmas cheer that means it’s time to deck the halls – or at least a little tree in the corner of their apartment. Liz Ledden finds out where to get the best baubles to embrace the holiday season.

traditional items, such as small and stars with bells attached. red plastic chilli lights, may The larger store stocks a similar inject a piece of Asia into your range, though with more orna- décor. Larger trees are on the ments (near the counter), includ- ground floor. If you want to go ing small bells tied to red ribbon all out and have your tree light for US$0.50. up when plugged in, there’s NCDP (National Centre of a tall tree with fibre optics for Disabled Persons) is yet another US$66. source of cards and ornaments. Christmas cards featuring Santa Christmas markets are US$1.10 each, and in the The city’s markets are also a centre of the store is a great array source of Christmas bits and of silk ornaments. Stars with se- pieces. Should you want the real quins are from US$0.75 to US$1 shopping McCoy Central Market is the each. There’s a range of animals place to buy a tree – although it including turtles, butterflies and may be a trite more tropical look- ducks from US$1 to US$2.40 a ing than the traditional fir. piece. Small hanging stars made Piles of potential decorations from woven palm leaves range await at Russian Market. Several from a reasonable US$0.25 each. of the stalls alongside the CD and DVD section stock plastic NCDP bags full of colourful silk or faux 3 Norodom Blvd. Tel: 023 210 140 silk covered ornaments from ani- Pencil Super Centre mals to stars, and a handful can 15 Street 214 (Cnr. Norodom Blvd.) be had for a few thousand riel. Tel: 023 982 394 Olympic Market has some suitable yet unexpected finds on Rajana its ground floor mixed in with Russian Market & 170 Street 450 the stalls featuring Buddhist Tel: 023 993 642 figurines. Alongside the piles Tabitha of incense are strands of tinsel NCDP 239 Street 51 (Cnr. Street 360) Stocks cards and baubles amongst the silk in blue and silver and one stall Tel: 023 721 038 For the biggest and mas tree decorations in all sorts features fake snow in a can, so perhaps best range of Christmas of colours and shapes – from you can transform your abode decorations, NGO shop Tabitha simple round baubles to reindeer into a winter wonderland. is the place to go. Already (US$8 to US$12 a packet). For stocked with Christmas goodies US$35, you can pick up a black Charity Cards for the past few months, there wrought iron Christmas tree, The two Rajana stores near the is a dedicated Christmas room with curly ‘branches’ to hang Russian Market are other sources on the second floor, along with decorations from. The perfect of Christmas accessories, being a some classy gold and silver solution for those wanting to re- Christian NGO, including cards. tree ornaments in display cases use a tree year after year, it also Both the store on the outer ring on the ground floor. The range looks a little more contemporary of the market and the larger one upstairs covers the kitsch to the and sophisticated than a green around the corner stock cute classic, from traditional looking leafy or plastic variety. cards for US$0.65 to US$1.25. patchwork wall hangings, ad- Those preferring a more Most are quite tasteful. vent calendars, a naff ‘Christ- traditional Christmas tree should The Russian Market store mas tree skirt’ (US$25) and head for Pencil Super Centre. stocks gift packs (US$4.25) Christmas stockings (US$15), to Stocking trees from under one featuring a selection of red and much more simple and chic silk metre to over two metres tall, the green tree ornaments, mixed table runners in red or silver. smaller trees (US$7 to US$13) – with miniature versions of Cam- Christmas cards are available for displayed on the store’s central bodian objects such as baskets. US$0.80 each. staircase – are available in both There are also individual orna- Some of the funkiest buys are green and white. There’s also a ments near the counter (US$0.95) the packs of silk-covered Christ- range of fairy lights. Some less such as red and green wreaths Tabitha Lots of Christmas decor

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 65 shopping

made-to-measure goods on request. Just Cambodian designer Romyda Keth that make sure you don’t trip over the dog on are popular all over the world. Beautiful the way in. Open from 10am to 6pm. colonial building with colour-themed Shopping Guide rooms makes the perfect setting for the Colori d’Oriente city’s most glamorous design shop. Open ChildSafe® Street 172, cnr. Street 13 10am to 6pm (closed Sunday). A network protecting children from all forms of Art gallery and souvenir shop close to the National Museum, which sells small prints Beautiful Shoes abuse. www.childsafe-cambodia.org. and souvenirs. Open from 9.30am to 1pm 138 Street 143, and 2.30pm to 8pm, closed Sunday & Tel: 012 848 438 and travel books. Open 9am to 9pm. Monday. Located near Tuol Sleng Museum, this Art family-run business measures your feet I Ching Decor Asasax Art Gallery Mekong Libris and designs the shoe exactly as you wish. 85 Sothearos Boulevard 192 Street 178 12 Street 13, Women’s sandals cost US$13 and leather Tel: 023 220 873 Tel: 012 217 795 Tel: 023 722 751 boots US$50. The shop also caters for Commercial art gallery featuring oil paint- French bookstore and souvenir centre www.ichingdecor.com men. Open from 7am until 6.30pm. ings based on Angkor reliefs by the artist located opposite the post office building. Boutique interior design shop offering Asasax. Open 9am to 8pm. Has a range of books on Cambodia and advice on architectural work and interior Bliss the rest of Asia, and a selection of im- design, as well as providing custom-made 29 Street 240 Happy Painting Gallery ported French magazines. A good range furniture, home accessories, kitchenware, Tel: 023 215 754 FCC; Domestic Terminal Airport of postcards are also available, no doubt lighting and bedroom suites. A beautiful colonial building houses this www.happypainting.net due to the shop’s location. exquisite shop with funky patterned cush- Open since 1995, these popular aircon Le Lezard Bleu ions, quilts and an excellent clothing line. 61 Street 240, art shops sell the extremely colourful Monument Books The health spa at the back of the shop Tel: 012 406 294 and positive works of iconic artist Stef. 111 Norodom Boulevard also sells Spana beauty products. Open An elegant shop that would not look out Accepts all major credit cards. Open from Tel: 023 217 617 from 9am to 9pm (closed Monday). of place in Paris. Specialising in antique 8am to 10pm. Most extensive range of first-hand Eng- and reproduction furniture, it also has a lish-language books in town including Elsewhere number of fine prints, mainly of Angkor. recent releases and sections on Asia, 175 Street 51 Books & CDs The shop has a framing service which Cambodia, travel, cuisine, design and Tel: 023 211 348 comes highly recommended. There are Upstairs boutique above a beautiful gar- Bohr’s Books management. Good children’s section also a few sculptures on sale, as well as den cafe with a range of clothing for both 5 Sothearos Bvd. as well as a wide choice of magazines a number of cheaper prints, although men and women. All items are designed Tel: 012 929 148 and newspapers both on display and you’ll have to ask the manager for the by the two French owners. Open from Small bookshop with a good range of ready to order. Open from 7:30am to price list. Open 9am to 7pm. 10am to late, (closed Tuesday). secondhand and copied books. Features 7pm (7.30am to 5.30pm Monday). predominantly fiction titles, from US$3 Magic Gecko Friends @ 240 to US$6. Cheaper than similar set-ups Open Book 87 Street 240 32 Street 240 in the city. Some copied bestsellers are 41Eo Street 240 Tel: 012 890 916 [email protected] only US$3. A welcoming reading room open to Souvenir shop with friendly owners who A creative fashion studio selling designs anyone to drop in, with a good range of speak good English. Sells a range of the by students from Mith Samlanh/Friends, Carnets d’Asie children’s books to peruse in English, brightly-painted metallic lizards available both ready to wear and custom made. French Cultural Centre (FCC) French and Khmer. Apart from the library all over town. Open 1 to 5pm Mon., 8am to 5pm shopping 218 Street 184 books, there’s a range of illustrated Tues-Sat. Tel: 012 799 959 children’s books in multiple languages for French-language bookshop that has Pavillon d’Asie sale, starting from under US$1. You may 24 - 26 Sihanouk Boulevard Jasmine Boutique sections on Cambodia and Asia as well need to ask a staff member for assis- as general fiction. Good range of French Tel: 012 497 217 73 Street 240 tance, as the books for sale are locked in Antique lovers dream, with a large array Tel: 023 223 103 magazines and newspapers. Open a cupboard. from 8am to 8pm (closed Sundays and of well-restored furniture and decorative www.jasmineboutique.net holidays). objects. Wooden cabinets jostle for space Established in 2001 by Kellianne Crafts & Furniture with Buddha statues and old wooden Karatau and Cassandra McMillan, this CD World boxes. Upstairs are pieces from the boutique creates its own collection of Bazar Art de Vivre 103 Sihanouk Boulevard French colonial era. Open 9am to 6pm. designs twice a year using hand-woven 28 Sihanouk Boulevard Shop with possibly the widest range Closed Sundays. Cambodian silk. Dresses start at of CDs, DVDs and software packages Tel: 012 776 492 US$128, shoes from US$33, bags from outside of the Russian Market. Open from Elegant furniture and home fittings shop Sap Bay US$17 and cushions from US$37. Open 8am to 9pm. that specialises in antique furniture, 85 Street 240, Tel: 012 369 867 8am to 6pm. furnishings by Bloom Atelier and Shop with a selection of tableware and D’s Books Cambodian silks. French-Vietnamese household goods with a pleasant café Kambuja 12E Street 178 & 79 Street 240 owner Mai also specialises in calligraphy upstairs. Open from 10.30am to 5pm 165 Street 110 Tel: 092 675 629 and design. Open from 9am to 6pm (closed Monday). Tel: 012 613 586 Claiming to be Asia’s number one (closed Sunday). Stylish fashion outlet with clothing de- choice for books, ‘D’ stocks over Fashion signed to fuse west with east. 20,000 copies. Most are second-hand Chez l’Artisan (from US$3.50), but some are originals 42D Street 178 Ambre Keo (from US$6). Heavy emphasis on best Tel: 012 869 634 37 Street 178 92 Street 222 sellers, National Geographic past-issues Quaint shop with high-quality wooden fur- Tel: 023 217 935 / 012 688 608 Tel: 012 941 643 niture and lampshades that also produces High-end fashion designs created by Haute couture fashion house run by

66 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 shopping

Sylvain Lim, the grand master of Cambo- creatively integrated agricultural produce dian fashion. Has some pret a porter too. from the provinces into their cookies such as cashew nuts from Kampong Cham and Sapors Mondulkiri honey. A portion of the profits 8 Street 240, helps fund education for a local orphan- Tel: 012 803 519 age. Open 9am to 8.30pm. Modelling agency, training school for housekeeping, as well as a beauty train- Comme a la Maison ing school. 13 Street 57, Tel: 023 360 801 Smateria Decidedly sophisticated French restau- 8Eo Street 57, rant with a beautiful outdoor terrace area Tel: 012 647 061 at the front, yet secluded from the street. Unique boutique specialising in acces- Small delicatessen and bakery at the sories made from recycled materials back of the restaurant. Open from 6am including a range of bags and wallets to 10.30pm. made from old fruit juice cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets. Check Dan’s Meats out the blackboard tally showing how 51A Street 214 #73, Street 240, Phnom Penh 023 223 103 FCC Angkor, Pokambor Ave, Siem Reap 063 760 610 many plastic bags have been recycled Tel: 012 906 072 www.jasmineboutique.net to date. Phnom Penh’s man of meat, Lanzi, supplies his strictly non-vegetarian Subtyl Kashaya products to many of the restaurants 55 Street 240 and bars around town. A good range Tel: 012 900 014 of quality products is for sale at his Owners/designers Sandrine Bury and butcher’s shop. Cinni Rajguru and Kashaya designer Catherine Theron share this boutique. Lucky Supermarket The combination is a refreshingly 160 Sihanouk Boulevard light and bright shop with a selection Best known of the international-style of funky silk bags (from US$21) and supermarkets, Lucky, with its pleasant cushions (US$12), ties, belts and shoes air-con, is a relief from the outdoor heat, (US$35). and is the place to go for one-stop shopping. Has a good selection of cheeses, Subtyl Asia meats and wines, although the bread Hotel Cambodiana could be better. 313 Sisowath Quay Tel: 023 218 189. shopping French designer Sandrine Bury also has Sorya Centre a boutique in Hotel Cambodiana selling a Corner Street 63 & 142 wide range of modern and stylish clothes The country’s first shopping mall with and fashion accessories. the first ever escalators. Good range of electronic goods, clothes and household Threads items with a food store at the top and a 56 E1 Sihanouk Boulevard supermarket on the ground floor. Won- (behind Java Café) derful spot for people-watching. Tel: 012 768 248 Unisex boutique tucked away behind Smokey da Boar Java Café that sells the designs of owner Tel: 012 836 442 Linda. Kiwi run wholesale butchers specialising in sausages, ham on the bone and burger VNC meat. Phone orders only. 31C Sihanouk Bvd. Tel: 023 223 066 The Deli Malaysian shoe store chain with young, 13 Street 178 Threads fun, fashionable shoes. VNC is possibly Tel: 012 851 234 Women’s and Men’s Clothing the best place in town for stylish heels Café and bakery with a good range of and flats, priced between US$11 and take away breads, sandwiches and pas- Cottons and Silks US$35. Also has a small range of hand- tries. Now has a second outlet on Street 51. Open from 6.30am to 6.30pm, but bags and puts on occasional sales with Now Selling Fair Trade Silk Lingerie an excellent 50-75% off. delivery service (within 30 minutes) is only from 7am to 11pm. By Shenga (http://shenga.angkorw.com) Water Lily Veggy’s 37 Street 240, 23 Street 240 Tel: 012 812 469 Tel: 023 211 534 56 E1z Boulevard Sihanouk Eclectic shop run by Christine Gauthier One of the few shops outside the su- Tonle Bassac, Phnom Penh selling her distinctive range of colourful permarkets catering for Western tastes. unique necklaces (US$10 to US$500), Marmite, Branston pickle, cereals, (Behind Java Café) beads, earrings, flamboyant hats (from Barilla pasta, Lao coffee, brown sauce US$26) and bags (US$35). Open 8am to (not HP) and other expat essentials at 5.30pm (closed Sunday). the front. A good range of cheeses, cured and cooked meats are stored in the walk-in cold room at the back. Open Food 8am to 8pm. AusKhmer 125 Street 105 (between Streets 348 & Kids’ Stores 330) Tel: 023 214 478 Excellent source of Australian beef and Kid’s World lamb and also has groceries, wines, beers 112 Sothearos Bvd., by the case or six pack, plus a great range Tel: 012 661 168 of imported cheeses. This major supplier Bright and cheery children’s store selling of cafés and restaurants is also open to an extensive range of real Lego, from individuals who can check out the ware- small pieces up to elaborate box sets house style store and coolrooms. such as build-your-own Ferraris. The store also features a small play table. A Camory – The Premium Cookie Boutique range of baby products under the ‘Nuk’ 167 Sisowath Quay label are also available. Tel: 023 224 937 www.camoryfoods.com Monument Toys Camory offers exquisite cookies inspired 111 Norodom Bvd., by traditional Khmer food culture. The Tel: 023 217 617 young entrepreneurs of the boutique have To the rear of Monument Books is a

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 67 shopping

well-stocked toy section. It features an Range of contemporary silk home interior excellent range of well-known board products inspired by Asian and western games and toys including Barbie dolls, designs. Sells all kinds of tailor made silks Transformers, Magic 8 balls and more. and linens. Also sells Kampot pepper. It has to be the best place in the city for Open 8.30am to 7pm.. brand name toys and games. Sobbhana Boutique Silks & Accessories 24 Street 144/49, Tel: 023 219 455 Cambodian Craft Coooperation A not for profit organisation founded by 1 Norodom Boulevard Princess Norodom Marie, offering a range Tel: 023 982 154 of colourful, handwoven silk products. Has very high quality silk scarves and Profits help to support local women by blankets along with a range of Cambodian funding the training, medical care and homewares, mostly made in the provinc- education of weavers. es. Also has a small silver jewelry range.

Couleurs d’Asie Tabitha 33 Street 240 239 Street 51, Tel: 023 221 075 Tel: 023 721 038 www.couleursdasie.net www.tabithafoundationaustralia.com Aircon shop selling French-designed silk Large selection of silk goods including and linen bags (from US$12), scarves bedcovers, cushions and scarves as well (from US$12), cushions, pillow cases and as some jewellery. quilts. Also has a selection of soaps and bath salts from Senteurs d’Angkor, Amata Tooit Tooit beauty products and Eric Raisina’s unique Stall 312 Russian Market textiles and clothing. Open 9am to 7pm Tooit Tooit sells ChildSafe certified (closed Sunday). products made by parents of former street children in vulnerable communities. Friends ‘n’ Stuff Creative handicrafts and recycled ac- 13 Street 215 (next to Friends restaurant) cessories are available with all proceeds Tel: 023 426 748 to Mith Samlanh/Friends projects. Open [email protected] 8am to 5pm, 7 days. A colourful shop with unique products designed by Mith Samlanh/Friends students and parents of former street Wine kids. Range includes clothes, necklaces, Celliers d’Asie purses and 2nd hand goods. Also has 635 National Road 5 a nail bar run by students from the Tel: 023 986 350 beauty class. Open from 11am to 9pm Wine supplier with the largest quantity 7 days. of retail stock in town, the Celliers d’Asie shopping group has been providing wine to most of NYEMO the top hotels and restaurants in town for 14 Street 310, over ten years. Tel: 023 213 160 NGO handicraft store on the grounds of Open Wine Le Rit’s training restaurant. Fun, funky and 219 Street 19 a bit different to the norm, their silks and Tel: 023 223 527 accessories are in fantastic bright colours. Aircon wine shop and tasting gallery with Alsohas a great range of children’s toys garden restaurant serving barbecues and hanging butterfly and bird mobiles. and Fanny ice-cream. Sells wines from Second outlet on the eastern edge of the as little as US$6 as well as severac and Russian Market. calvados. Has occasional free wine-

tastings. Sayon Silk Works 40 Street 178 Red Apron Tel: 023 990 219 15 Street 240, www.sayonsilkworks.com Tel: 023 990 951 Since 2001 self-taught Cambodian The self-proclaimed home of wine en- designer Sayon has created all her own thusiasts in Phnom Penh is both a wine handbags, cushions, scarves and quilts boutique and tasting gallery. With around from Cambodian silk. A nice selection of 300 wines (from US$10) the boutique goods on sale. Open from 9am to 7pm. has far more range for a special occasion than the supermarkets. Also arranges Silk & Pepper wine tastings in the air-conditioned gal- 33 Street 178 & Amanjaya Hotel lery for US$15.

68 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 shopping shopping

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 69 Afonso Vieira 70 ATMs 70 Information Airlines 70 Information Guide 71 Afonso Vieira: Airlines Air Asia Malaysia Airlines Money—Your Employee 66 Mao Tse Tung Boulevard 172 Monivong Boulevard Tel: 023 356 011 Tel: 023 218 923

Money that is stacked Mutual funds are the most Angkor Airways Royal Air Services under the pillow is not work- commonly used instruments. 32 Norodom Boulevard 168 Monireth Boulevard ing for you. It begins to work Some are specialised in a mar- Tel: 023 222 056 Tel: 023 881 090 the moment it is invested. ket sector, for instance real es- When you invest your money, tate, making the mutual fund Bangkok Airways Royal Khmer Airlines it works just as hard to pro- shareholder an investor into 61A Street 214 36B Mao Tse Tung Boulevard Tel: 023 722 545 Tel: 023 994 502 duce an income as you do real estate without the hassle when you go to your daily job. of managing a property or the China Airlines Shanghai Air Your money becomes your difficulty of selling it. Others 32 Norodom Boulevard 19 Street 106 employee. are specialised in one region Tel: 023 222 393 Tel: 023 723 999 Generally speaking, besides only, for instance China. The salaries and bonuses that difficulty with mutual funds Dragon Air Siem Reap Airways derive from a daily job, indi- investment is risk evaluation. 168 Monireth Boulevard 61A Street 214 Tel: 023 424 300 Tel: 023 722 545 viduals can have three extra income sources: RISK Eva Air Silk Air - Interest Risky investments aren’t 298 Mao Tse Tung Boulevard 313 Sisowath Quay (Himawari Hotel) - Rent good or bad. You just have Tel: 023 219 911 Tel: 023 426 808 - Profit to find a balance between Interest is paid on bank your tolerance for risk and Jet Star Asia Thai Airways deposits and other debt instru- the reward. If you are in your 333B Monivong Boulevard 294 Mao Tse Tung Boulevard Tel: 023 220 909 Tel: 023 214 359 ments like government and twenties, you have an enor- corporate bonds. These are mous tolerance for risk. Let’s Lao Airlines Vietnam Airlines virtually risk-free and semi- take the worst case. Say that 58C Sihanouk Boulevard 41 Street 214 illiquid. However returns are tomorrow, you lose your job Tel: 023 216 563 Tel: 023 363 396 normally offset by inflation. and all your money in invest- Rent, on real estate and ments. It would be bad but not land, provides an enduring catastrophic. You could still go income stream for the home and live with your individual and depen- parents, look for another ATMs dants. Real estate job, and be okay. ANZ Royal – Total cnr. of Monivong Blvd investments are Things are different – 20 Kramuon Sar (cnr. Street 67) & Street 310 low-risk over the when you’re older. At – 100 Sihanouk Boulevard – Total, cnr. of Russian Blvd & Street 108 long-term, but take 35, you have a spouse – 316 & 363 Sihanouk Boulevard – Total, Avenue de Franc time to sell. and kids. At 45, you – 265 Sisowath Quay Profits can have a mortgage. – Caltex, cnr. of Monivong Boulevard & Street 474 Cambodian Public Bank originate from At 65 the “salaries – Caltex, cnr. of Mao Tse Tung – 23 Street 114 investments and bonus” income Boulevard & Street 202 in private source has dried – Caltex, cnr. of Mao Tse Tung Canadia Bank equity, like out and your health Boulevard & Street 167 – 126 Charles de Gaulle your own problems are now – Caltex Calmette, Cnr. of Boulevard company solved with surgery Monivong Boulevard & Street 86 – 265-269 Ang Duong for instance. not just medication. – Caltex Sokha, cnr. of – 394 Sihanouk Boulevard information Like real estate, Simply by virtue Kampuchea Krom & Street 139 – Royal Phnom Penh private equity of your age and – Lucky 7, Phnom Penh Centre International Airport can be difficult to place in life, you – Lucky Burger, – Sorya Shopping Centre, sell or part-sell if become more 219 Monivong Blvd 16-61 Street 63 you need a cash conservative. – Luck Supermarket, injection. Profits You can’t afford 37-39 Monireth Blvd SBC Bank – Lucky Supermarket,160 – Head Office, 68 Street 214 can also come a total wipe out Sihanouk Blvd – 203 Monivong Boulevard from invest- when you are near – Paragon Centre, 12 Street 214 – 168 Street 215 ment in financial retirement age. – Pencil Supercentre, – 327 Sisowath Quay products. Regardless of what Sisowath Quay – 55 Sihanouk Boulevard income source you chose – Pencil Supermarket, Street 214 INVESTMENT VEHICLES to have as your “em- – Pharmacy U-Care, cnr. of Street The range of financial ployee”, the message 178 & Sothearos Boulevard investment vehicles available is simple – make your – Phnom Penh Airport, nowadays is huge. All risk money work for you. National Road no. 4 and liquidity levels are cov- Afonso is the Director of – Royal Phnom Penh ered and your money can be TWM - Financial Planning International Airport invested into any economical & Asset Management. – The Rock, 468 Monivong Blvd sector or region. [email protected]. – Total cnr. of Streets 182 & 169

70 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 information

is responsible for keeping many of the IT / Software town’s buildings safe and sound. Conical Hat (Cambodia) Ltd. Information 209 Street 63, Tel: 023 362 957 Telecoms [email protected] specialises in providing leased villas and www.conicalhat.com Cadcoms Advisory Services flats. Also sells property. Software company that specialises in pro- 825A Monivong Blvd., Tel: 023 726 680 Alcoholics Anonymous viding highly localised business solutions New communications company with 20B Street 286, Tel: 092 974 882 Insurance including accounting, payroll and billing. Norwegian connections due to launch www.aaphnompenh.org properly early next year. AA meets on Friday at 7pm, Wednesday AG Insurance First Cambodia Co Ltd. at 12pm and Sunday at 12pm. Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sisowath Quay 86AB Street 13, Tel: 023 214 000 Cambodia Samarat Communication Tel: 012 195 35 85 www.firstcambodia.com 56 Norodom Blvd., Tel: 016 81001 Narcotics Anonymous [email protected] The first and leading provider of IT Internet provider that issues the 016 20B Street 286, Tel: 012 990 937 Professional insurance company offering Solutions and Networking in Cambodia. SIM card. Meet every Monday at 8pm, Thursday at health, home, car, factory, employee and Staffed by internationally experienced 8pm and Saturday at 7pm. hotel insurance packages. consultants and local IT professionals, Camshin it offers world-class technical expertise 6B-7B 294 Mao Tse Tung Boulevard Asia Insurance Cambodia combined with a deep understanding of Tel: 023 367 801 Bikes 5 Street 13, Tel: 023 427 981 the Cambodian market. Internet provider that also installs land The Bike Shop [email protected] lines and issues the 011 SIM card. www.asiainsurance.com.kh 31 Street 302, Tel: 012 851 776 Hong Kong-based insurance company Legal City Link www.phnompenhbike.com that was registered in Cambodia in 1996. Specialises in repairing trusty steeds as Sciaroni & Associates 170 Norodom Blvd., Tel: 023 220 112 Offers all types of insurance services 56 Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 023 210 225 One of the major internet providers in well as renting them out in the first place. including health, travel, general accident, Also provides dirt bike tours. Law firm with a good reputation. Just the Phnom Penh. money, marine, vehicle and fire. ticket if you get into a spot of bother. Mobitel Dara Motorbike Shop Forte Insurance (Cambodia) 339 Street 110, Tel: 012 335 499 33 Sihanouk Blvd., Tel: 012 801 801 325 Mao Tse Tung, Post Office Major mobile phone company which is- More of an off-road bike specialist, which Tel: 023 885 066 also arranges Sunday trips into the wild. Main Post Office sues the 012 SIM card and has www.forteinsurance.com an impressive main office, making The largest Cambodian underwriters. Cnr. Street 102 & Street 13 Lucky Lucky it easy to keep your telephone number af- Established in 1996, specialise in car, ac- Open from 6.30am to 9pm ter your phone has been stolen, although 413 Monivong Boulevard, cident, property, personal liability, marine, The place to go if you want to send normally you have to wait Tel: 023 212 788 travel and transport insurance. something overseas, or if something has a few hours. got lost in the post, this is where you Cheap place to rent a motorbike from as low as US$3 per day. might find it. Infinity Insurance Online 126 Norodom Blvd, 60 Monivong Blvd., Tel: 023 727 272 Business Groups Tel: 023 999 888 Printing & Design The biggest and most reliable of the Professional insurance company offering Internet providers. Has a major drive Australian Business Association of motor, property, home, marine cargo, Digital Advertising on its Wi-Fi service at the moment. Watch Cambodia (ABAC) personal accident, healthcare, construc- 60E Street 38, Tel: 023 987 600 out for their hotspots around town or surf 9 Mao Tse Tung Blvd, Tel: 023 215 184 tion and engineering insurance. Group Print house with modern equipment that in their showroom on Norodom. www.abac.com.kh policies can be customised by special provides full print services as well as arrangement. graphic design. Star-Cell British Business Association of 173 Nehru Blvd., Tel: 023 888 887 Cambodia (BBAC) International Schools Graphic Roots Newest of the mobile phone providers in 124 Norodom Blvd, Tel: 012 803 891 216B Street 63, Tel: 023 210 712 the capital. Has special promotions until; Graphic design company which offers full [email protected] ABC Preschool & Daycare end 2007. Issues the 098 SIM card. creative design services. Over ten years 18 Street 228 Tel: 023 355 479 experience in Cambodia. Chambre de Commerce [email protected] TeleSurf Franco-Cambodgienne Preschool which takes children from 1 to 33 Sihanouk Blvd, Tel: 012 800 800 Office 13A Ground Floor Hotel 5 years old. American teachers are re- Security Firms www.telesurf.com.kh Cambodiana 313 Sisowath Blvd, sponsible for a range of subjects. Annual Internet service provider (ISP) providing MPA Tel: 023 221 453 fees start from US$800. 24-hour broadband Internet service. 23 Street 214, Tel: 023 210 836 www.ccfcambodge.org Packages start from US$59 with unlimited ICan International School Well-established security company that funtime costing US$64. 85 Sothearos Blvd, Tel: 023 222 418 International Business Club www.ican.edu.kh of Cambodia

International school teaching the English information 56 Sothearos Blvd, Tel: 023 210 225 national curriculum to over 230 pupils. [email protected] Has spacious and modern facilities. Embassies Australia Malaysia Canadian Trade International School of Phnom Penh Villa 11 Street 254 5 Street 242 Tel: 023 216 176 Commissioner Service 146 Norodom Blvd, Tel: 023 213 470 Myanmar Canadian Embassy, 9 Street 254 Tel: 023 213 103 Belgium 181 Norodom Boulevard Tel: 023 213 470 Ext 417 www.ispp.edu.kh www.infoexport.gc.ca/kh/ Not-for-profit international school founded Hotel Cambodiana Tel: 023 223 761 Tel: 023 214 024 in 1989, ISPP has 395 students from Phillippines BCC / Malaysian Business Council pre-school to Grade 12. It is the largest Canada 33 Street 294 of Cambodia international school in Cambodia, and the Villa 11 Street 254 Tel: 023 215 145 Unit G21, Ground Floor, only authorized IBO school in the country. Tel: 023 213 470 Parkway Square 113, Mao Tse Tung Singapore Tel: 023 221 386 Northbridge School China 92 Norodom Boulevard [email protected] 1km off National Road 4 on the way to 156 Mao Tse Tung Boulevard Tel: 023 221 875 Tel: 023 720 920 the airport, Tel: 023 886 000 Sweden Singapore Business Club (Cambodia) www.niscambodia.com Denmark 8 Street 352 Tel: 023 212 259 92, Norodom Blvd, Tel: 023 360 855 [email protected] 8 Street 352 Tel: 023 987 629 [email protected] Quality international school situated Thailand between the centre of Phnom Penh and France 196 Norodom Boulevard the airport. Has a full curriculum for all 1 Monivong Boulevard Tel: 023 726 306 Cleaning students from pre-school to high school Tel: 023 430 020 as well as good sports facilities. United Kingdom Christine Franke Germany 27-29 Street 75 Tel: 092 884 255 Zaman International School 76-78 Street 214 Tel: 023 216 381 Tel: 023 427 124 European standard house cleaning 2843 Street 3, including training of Khmer staff. Japan United States Tel: 023 214 040 75 Norodom Boulevard 1 Street 96 (Wat Phnom) www.zamanisc.org Tel: 023 217 161 Tel: 023 728 000 Housing International school that teaches a full curriculum to children from four Laos Vietnam Bona Realty Group to 18. Facilities include basketball 15-17 Mao Tse Tung 436 Monivong Boulevard 209 Street 51, Tel: 012 831 199 and volleyball courts, a football field and Tel: 023 983 632 Tel: 023 726 283 Professional and well-established firm that a science lab.

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 71 Kampot awakening 72 Siem Reap Map 74 Regional Regional Guide 74 Sihanoukville Map 78 On the Waterfront For a long time Phnom Penh’s sleepy backwater, Kampot seems set for a take-off in tourism. Mark Jackson speaks with some of its riverside proprietors about the appeal of the town.

Mythical proportions Rusty Keyhole’s famous ribs

While it is true that Kampot’s Increasing civic pride riverside does have the Eric Karatau has also noticed occasional beggar, there is no a distinct change in Kampot’s comparison with the numbers riverside since he first came that stalk the capital’s Sisowath here four-and-a-half years ago. Quay. This means that visitors The New Zealand owner of can sit outside one of the many Bokor Mountain Lodge says riverside bars and restaurants more Khmers are operating and enjoy the great river views small businesses from within in peace. their shop fronts. How long the sleepy town He also sees a lot more civic will stay this way is open to pride. The roads have improved, question? Kristian has noticed a new bridge has been built that more and more visitors are to supplement the rickety old coming to the town, albeit not bridge and the waterfront is yet in overwhelming numbers. looking a lot tidier than it used “Before a lot of people had to. He also mentions a few huge never heard of Kampot,” he projects in the pipeline such as says before adding, “many still the proposed resort at Bokor, the haven’t.” deep-water port at the mouth of But there has been a the river and a new hydro-elec- change in the town. Kristian tric power station which could has noticed that Khmers are change the face of Kampot. spending money on their But for now the appeal of Rainbow on the Waterfront properties as real estate prices the town is definitely “chilling- regional go through the roof. out”. “Many people check in for Rusty Keyhole owner It is this sense of calm that He has also noticed a change two nights and stay for five,” Kristian Duncan celebrates the astonishes many visitors when in customers, with an increasing says Eric. third anniversary of his riverside they come to Kampot, according number of Khmers. According His target market is the pub on Dec. 5. The Manchester to Kristian. to Kristian, they mainly come Phnom Penh expat family. United fan had previously been to try out his ribs. Indeed Rusty According to him, Kampot has working as the manager at Dusk Sleepy Kampot Keyhole’s ribs have taken on many attractions for children. ‘til Dawn in Sihanoukville – a “Everyone says I can’t believe almost mythical proportions. They can safely walk around project he freely admits he how tranquil it is,” he says. He cites the example of one of town, visit Bokor, swim in the didn’t do justice. He decided to “You don’t get bothered as his customers, who was told he river close to the Tek Chhouu establish the Keyhole because much as in Phnom Penh or had to try the ribs by a fellow falls and take sunset cruises he wanted something quieter. Sihanoukville.” traveller in Laos. along the river.

72 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 regional

Bokor Mountain Lodge Prime riverfront location Relaxed eleganceance oonn ththee ririversideverside in KKaampompott The recent opening of an in- peal of “peaceful” Kampot, he ternational border crossing with disagrees about the town’s long- Vietnam nearby has already term future. had a significant effect. “Every The Englishman came to R Superb international & Khmer food day there’s more and more Cambodia two-and-a-half years people using the border cross- ago having spent the previous Comprehensively stocked bar ing at Ha Tien,” he says. This two-and-a-half years on a bike Beautiful rooms with all amenities will have a big impact on the travelling overland from the town in the future as tourists U.K., a trip he says is a lot easier IK will use the crossing as a means than you might think. A of travelling from Phu Quoc Once the proposed resorts v and the Mekong Delta to Bokor are built along the road in Kep, wwwT.Rikitikitavi-Kampot.com d [email protected] d 012-235102 and the Cambodian coast. across the river and up Bokor I “We’re going to see the flow Mountain, Dominic feels that from the border before Kep,” Kampot might become by- Eric says, asserting that Kampot passed. “It will be the place for a is in the ideal location. stopover or a day-trip,” he thinks. But that is in the long-term. Long-term Future “In the medium-term Kampot “Its appeal is that it’s not has a great future,” he says. Sihanoukville,” says Rikitikitavi What remains to be seen is owner Dominic Price. While he how long it will take before is in full agreement with Kristian sleepy Kampot will be awoken and Eric as to the current ap- by the noise of mass tourism. regional

Rikitikitavi Attractive guesthouse and restaurant

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 73 �

To regional the

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s Regional Guide Central Siem Reap great views of the mêlée down below. Siem Reap - Bars Open from 7am to 11.30pm. Angkor What? Wa Golden Orange Bo t Pub Street, Tel: 012 490 755 The Warehouse

“Promoting irresponsible drinking since Old Market, Tel: 063 965 204 oad 1998,” this graffiti-laden bar is the main- Popular expat bar opposite the old stay of Pub Street. A healthy mix of loud market that plays great 80s music. Good Asian fusion cuisine and with an additional Royal rock, punk and grunge, buckets of vodka Independence Gardens and red bull for US$6 and a pool table en- selection of menus from nearby outlets, this is a great place to hideNationa from the sures that you will never feel alone. Open l Rout from 5pm to late. hordes along Pub Street and use thee free No. 6 National Route Wi-Fi. Also has a small gallery upstairs. No. 6 Funky Munky Open from 10am to 3am. Royal Residence Riverside, near Old Market Tel: 012 182 4553 Street 2 Lively pub on the river front with lots Siem Reap - Cafes

of rock posters and music to match. Blue Pumpkin Si Jasmine

v FCC Angkor Happy Painting Typical pub grub menu with classics Old Market, Tel: 012 946 227 at such as the ploughmans and an www.tbpumpkin.com Blv ha Street 3 extensive burger list, including a cardiac Achesva Vithei

Popular café with a great range of Stree Chhay Ourn arrest that carries a health disclaimer. freshly baked breads and pastries. Serves d There’s a quiz each Thursday and shakes and health drinks for US$1.75 and .

a Sunday roast from 6.30pm. Open Bon Café coffee. Free Wi-Fi. Also has out- Oum Khun Street T

from 12pm to late with a 4pm to 7pm lets at Angkor Wat and the airport. aph

happy hour. ok

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Café de la Paix mbor a

Laundry Bar d Sivutha Bld, Tel: 063 966 000 Street 5

Old Market, Tel: 016 962 026 Street 14

www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com Av www.laundry-bar.com

Like the adjoining Hotel de la Paix, this e. Extremely chilled music bar just off

small café exudes contemporary chic. Wa Pub Street with great mellow decor and Excellent Lavazza coffee, bagels, salads Road Bo t extremely cool t-shirts. Its 243-page and free Wi-Fi dished up in air-con sur- music catalogue makes for the perfect roundings. The sandwiches, salads and reet respite from the Cambodian obsession patisseries are all 50% off after 8pm. n St with hip-hop, and they can burn 7 CDs Achamea for US$5. Free drink during the 6pm to Happy Painting 9pm washing hours. Open 6pm to late. Center FCC, Old Market, Angkor Century Hotel Market Linga Bar Tel: 012 623 945 Alley behind Pub Street, Tel: 012 246 912 www.happypainting.net Three shops selling the extremely colour- www.lingabar.com ful and positive work of iconic artist Stef. Laid back, gay-friendly bar with extremely Accepts credit cards. P chilled Buddha Bar tunes and some i Tn Open from 5.30am to 11pm. ou amazing light boxes. Free Wi-Fi. Open Street from 5pm to late. Si v atha Blvd. U Care Molly Malone’s Siem Reap - Galleries Blue Pumpkin t Cnr Pub Street & Sivutha Boulevard Carnets d’Asie e y Tel: 063 963 533 333 Sivutha Bld., Happy Painting b Stre t Alle Pu e www.mollymalonescambodia.com Tel: 016 746 701 Le Malraux

Obligatory Irish Pub with lots of wood www.carnetsdasie-angkor.com ub Stre P panelling and Irish memorabilia. The Guin- Set in an arcade, this gallery-cum- e. ness either comes in a cold can or along- bookshop has an extensive selection of Av Artisans d’Angkor Old Marketbor side some steak in a pie. Also has a small photographs and books on Cambodia, m guest house upstairs with air-conditioned Angelina’s ka including some black and white prints Espresso Bar rooms from US$20 to US$35. Open from from the early 20th century. Po 7am to midnight. Klick Red Piano Alley behind Pub Street Pub Street, Tel: 063 964 730 Tel: 063 761 084 www.redpianocambodia.com Commercial fine art gallery dedicated Bar set in a beautiful 100-year old colonial to the work of Swiss photographer Pier building that dominates one end of Pub Poretti. Black and white photographs are Street. Lounge chairs spill out onto the given a face-lift using hand-tinted water street and the upstairs restaurant has colours. Prints start at US$40. regional

With an Art Nouveau interior, Home made ice-cream LE MALRAUX offers and desserts are also French food and wine. our specialties.

[email protected] www.le-malraux-siem-reap.com 155 Sivutha, Siem Reap

74 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 regional

McDermott Gallery Raffles Grand D’Angkor FCC Complex, Pokambor Avenue & 1 Charles de Gaulle, Tel: 063 963 888 alleyway behind Pub Street Elegant hotel with opulent gardens and a Tel: 012 274 274 spectacular swimming pool in its grounds. www.mcdermottgallery.com Has frequent art exhibitions and Apsara The main gallery has a semi-permanent dancing on nearby terrace. Rooms are exhibition of the mesmerising pho- from US$350 in the high season. tographs of Angkor taken by John McDermott and Kenro Izu. Second gallery The Red Piano features ongoing exhibitions of other other 341, 50m Northwest of the Old Market, photographers alongside McDermott’s www.redpianocambodia.com own work. Open 10am to 10pm. Nicely designed guest house with 15 comfortable and spacious non-smoking The Arthouse rooms. All include air-con, cable TV and Upstairs at The Warehouse a hot shower from US$16 to US$28 a opposite Old Market night. Promises a hassle-free stay. Tel: 063 965 204 [email protected] Sokha Angkor Small gallery above the Warehouse that Cnr Sivatha Rd and National Rd 6 displays work of young Cambodian Tel: 063 969 999 artists, curated by Sasha Constable. www.sokhahotels.com Current exhibition features the paintings Huge 5 star resort, sister property to Siha- and sketches of Battambang artist Srey noukville’s Sokha Beach Resort. Located Bandole. just back from the centre of town, it has a large pool, Irish pub and Japanese restau- The Arts Lounge rant. Rooms from US$250-2000 a night. Hotel de la Paix, Sivutha Boulevard Tel: 063 966 000 Victoria Angkor Large space in the ground floor of the Near Royal Gardens, Tel: 063 760 428 hotel that showcases the works of Cam- www.residencedangkor.com bodian and international artists. All pieces Beautiful hotel with the most luxurious focus on Cambodian subjects. swimming pool and gardes. Rooms from US$285 per night. Siem Reap - Hotels Amansara Siem Reap - Leisure Pokambor Avenue, Tel: 063 760 333 Body Tune www.amanresorts.com 293-296 Pokambor Avenue The ultimate in Siem Riep’s chic hotels. www.bodytune.co.th The limited number of rooms and high- Heavy grey stone Thai-run spa with walled perimeter make this the ideal selection of massages and facials starting refuge from the paparazzi for the global at US$12. All masseuses work with Thai Angkor-bound jet set. You’ll only be able instructors. to get a room if Mr & Mrs Smith are not on a flying visit. Frangipani Alley behind Pub Street, Claremont Angkor Tel: 063 964 391 17 Phum Wat Bo, Tel: 063 966 898 Relaxing three-room beauty spa in the www.claremontangkor.com heart of town that’s popular with expats. New reasonably priced hotel with swim- Massages are from US$18. Body treat- ming pool, gym and large outside terrace ments and facials start at US$22. area. Well-located just across the river, but within easy access of both temples Phokeethra Country Club and town. Sofitel Royal Angkor Resort & Spa, Vithei Charles de Gaulle, FCC Angkor Tel: 056 396 4600 Pokambor Avenue, Tel: 023 992 284 [email protected] www.fcccambodia.com International standard 18-hole, 72-par Boutique hotel with 31 contemporary golf course managed by the Sofitel Royal Asian-designed rooms spread around the Angkor Golf and Spa Resort. Situated garden and swimming pool. Free Wi-Fi for 16km outside of Siem Reap. guests both in rooms and around the pool. Rooms from US$90 in low season. Siem Reap - Restaurants Golden Orange Off East River Road, Tel: 063 965 389 Abacus Mini-hotel with good sized air-con rooms Oum Khun Street, Tel: 012 644 286 that tends to have customers when oth- www.cafeabacus.com ers are empty. Nice outside bar makes for Set just back from the main road, this a good place to sit and have a few beers. beautiful sheltered garden explodes with Rooms from US$20. greenery. The interesting menu has specials including crocodile tails and frog legs’

Hotel de la Paix skewers. The steaks are excellent. Book regional Sivutha Boulevard, Tel: 063 966 000 exchange downstairs and two private din- www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com ing rooms upstairs. Open 11am to late. With stoneware bathtubs in the rooms, mini-iPods upon request, flexible reading Angelina’s Espresso Bar flashlights above the decadently lavish West Side of Old Market beds and inset photographic galler- Contemporary designed coffee shop, ies along all the corridors, de la Paix is which actually makes its own coffee simply a modern design classic. The Arts blend - Mekong Symphony. The Lounge downstairs is a great place to chill sophisitcated decor is perhaps a sign of bakery and has free Wi-Fi. Special offer rooms the times for Siem Reap. from US$165 a night. ice cream Butterflies Garden Restaurant restaurant La Residence d’Angkor 535 Wat Bo Road , Tel: 063 761 211 River Road, Tel: 063 963 390 www.butterfliesofangkor.com lounge www.residencedangkor.com Garden restaurant with large netting to old market - siem reap Boutique, low-rise resort located across keep the infinite number of butterflies www.tbpumpkin.com the river from the centre of town. Stylish within the grounds. Beautiful, relaxing 063 963 574 wooden décor. Good pool and lush setting and good clean food, but slightly open 06:00 to 22:00 garden setting. Rooms are US$340 to more expensive than the main drag. Small US$440 a night. gift shop also on the premises.

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 75 regional

Carnets d’Asie that can be burned either onto CDs for 333 Sivutha Boulevard, Tel: 016 746 701 US$1.25 or mp3 discs for US$0.75. At the back of a galleried shopping area Also sells its designer t-shirts (US$6) Getting there is this beautifully shaded high quality and hoodies (US$15) as well as the Zico restaurant. fashion label for women. Same chain as in Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville. FCC Angkor FCC Complex, Pokambor Avenue Carnets d’Asie Tel: 063 760 280 333 Sivutha Boulevard The best example of contemporary Asian Tel: 016 746 701 Banlung architecture in Cambodia, the elegant Set in an arcade, this gallery-cum- Sisophon bar and restaurant serve a mix of Asian bookshop has an extensive selection of Poipet Lomphat Angkor Wat Stung Treng and International cuisine. The complex photographs and books on Cambodia, SIEM REAP includes shops, the McDermott Gallery, including some black and white prints 6 Battambang Visaya Spa, a boutique hotel and arguably from the early 20th Century. Tonle Sap 7 the coolest pool room in Cambodia. CAMBODIA Happy Painting Kampong Thom La Noria Kratie FCC, Old Market, Angkor Century Hotel 5 Wat Bo Road, Tel: 063 964 242 Tel: 012 623 945 Beautiful restaurant, set on a raised www.happypainting.net Cardammon terrace area surrounded by trees. Serves Mountains Three shops selling the extremely colour- good international and Khmer cuisine. ful and positive work of iconic artist Stef. Mekong River Has traditional shadow puppet, musical Accepts credit cards. Koh Kong PHNOM PENH and dance performances on Wednes- days. Open 6am to 10pm. 3 Jasmine Boutique 4 2 1 FCC Angkor. Pokambor Avenue Svey Rieng Le Malraux Tel: 063 760 610 155 Sivutha Boulevard Same sophisticated, stylish boutique www.le-malraux-siem-reap.com Sihanoukville Kampot as on Street 240 in Phnom Penh. The Kep Sophisticated French fine dining estab- perfect place to come for the ballgown lishment close to the market with good you forgot to bring with you. outside terrace and welcoming bar. Has a fine selection of wines. battambang U-Care Pharmacy GST runs seven buses a day from the Central Market Bus Next to Old Market, Tel: 063 965 396 Le Bistrot de Paris Reliable western-style pharmacist and Station to Battambang, starting at 6.45am and finishing at Old Market Area, Tel: 092 964 790 drugstore that also has two branches in 12.30pm. The journey takes between five and six hours and Parisian-style bistro which opened in Phnom Penh. Sells health and beauty December 2006. Heavy wood-panelled products. Open 8am to 12am. costs US$4. Far more comfortable and quicker (four hours) is interior with solid bar and aircon provide a shared taxi. Expect to pay US$40. this restaurant with authenticity. Serves foie gras, croque monsieur, cheese, cold cuts and French wines. Kep & Kampot Both Kep and Kampot are served by the same bus service. Maharajah ATMs Buses leave Phnom Penh at 7.30am and 1pm from the bus Next to Pub Street, Tel: 092 506 622 ANZ Royal station 30 meters from the main entrance to the Olympic Halal restaurant offering 261 Royal Indian – Street 125 (near Old Market) Stadium. Contact Hua Lian Transportation (Tel: 012 376 807) dishes, including a large selection of vegetarian and non-vegetarian specialties. Open – National Route 6 for details. Other buses leave from the bus station at the from 10am to 11pm with free home delivery. (Caltex Service Station) Central Market. A one-way ticket costs US$5 and takes about – Siem Reap Airport 4.5 hours. Shared taxis can be found in the morning at the Meric Central Market. Hotel de la Paix, Sivutha Boulevard Cambodian Public Bank Tel: 063 966 000 – 618 Achamean Street www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com Kratie Elegant, contemporary restaurant with Buses departing for Kratie leave from the Central Bus Station Canadia Bank classically simple yet powerful black and – 558-559 Phsar Chas Street next to the Central Market. The seven-hour journey costs white décor and an open kitchen. Execu- (Old Market Street) between US$5 and US$5.50 and buses leave at 7am, 7.30am tive Chef Johannes Riviere has devised a daily-changing seven-course traditional and 9.30am. Khmer set menu. Try to book one of the SBC Bank swings outside on the terrace. – 18A Sivutha Boulevard Sihanoukville Mekong Express buses leave from their office close to the Singing Tree Café Green Vespa at 87A Sisowath Quay at 7:45am and 2.30pm, Wat Bo Road, Siem Reap Tel: 012 490 265 Battambang stopping at Orussey Market. Price is US$5 including a snack Vegetarian alternative lifestyle garden res- La Villa and free pick-up. GST runs four buses a day (7:15am, 8:15am, taurant with clusters of foliage surrounding East bank of river, Tel: 012 826 186 12:30pm & 1:30pm) for US$4 from Central Market, but offer no wicker and bamboo seating. Menu includes www.lavilla-battambang.com pick-up or snack. veggie burgers, quiche, salads, sandwiches Beautifully restored 1930s colonial house and tofu-based Khmer specialities, all cost- with six rooms for US$45 to US$50. ing around US$2. Also a centre for yoga, The only quality accommodation in meditation and reiki healing. Battambang.

Tigre de Papier Riverside Balcony Bar & Restaurant Pub Street, Siem Reap West bank of river, Tel: 012 265 811 Tel: 012 437 421 The thing that differentiates this place Traditional wooden house with great from all the other restaurants along Pub views of the river and good food. Open Street is its half-day cookery classes, from 4pm to midnight. regional starting at 9am and costing US$10. Friendly, helpful French management. Sunrise Coffee House Near Royal Hotel, Tel: 053 953 426 Viroth’s Excellent coffee, pastries and sand- Wat Bo Road, Tel: 012 826 346 wiches. Open from 6.30am to 5pm, Elegant restaurant on the other side of closed Sundays. the river with excellent terrace garden. A good place to try royal Khmer cuisine including amok. Kampot Blissful Guest House Siem Reap - Shops Kampot, Tel: 012 513 024 Small guest house, with 11 rooms, set Boom Boom Room in a quiet part of town. Downstairs res- Old Market taurant and bar, and communal TV room Boasts a 176-page catalogue of tracks upstairs. Rooms are from US$4 to US$7.

76 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 regional

Bodhi Villa bungalows at US$60 per night. Has a on one of Sihanoukville’s most unspoilt Sophisticated French cuisine in a beautiful Across the river, Kampot swimming pool, a restaurant, a bar and a beaches. If it is anything like its Phnom garden setting. Open for lunch and dinner. Small guest house just acoss the old pleasant garden. Penh older sister, expect great Mexican bridge in Kampot. The few basic rooms food and some mean tequila cocktails. Mick & Craig’s Sanctuary are extremely cheap and there are buga- Knai Bang Chatt Resort Open from 10am. From Golden Lion to Serendipity lows overhanging the river too. Most defi- Tel: 012 349 742 Tel: 012 727 740 nitely a place to chill like the lotus eaters. www.knaibangchatt.com Holy Cow Open restaurant serving reliable food, Exclusive seaside resort just along from Ekareach Street, Tel: 012 478 510 including wood-fired oven pizzas. Bar has Bokor Mountain Lodge the crab stalls, which has opened up its Beautiful restaurant set in a relaxing a big screen and pool table. The guest- Riverfront, Kampot, doors to the public for US$150 per night garden environment on the main street, house has a few rooms from US$6 to Tel: 033 932 314 including breakfast. With an elegant swim- with terracotta terrace downstairs and US$10, a bookshop and is a good source www.bokorlodge.com ming pool, reliable air-con, a gym, a library wooden dining area upstairs. Well-priced, of travel information. Open 7am to late. Beautiful French colonial building set and fantastic gardens, this resort is the good cuisine including vegetarian options on the riverfront with recently refitted ideal place to get away from Phnom Penh. from US$1.50 to US$3, with house wine Oasis Hotel air-con en-suite rooms. Restaurant and Good restaurant with fantastic views of at US$2. Open 9.30am to midnight. Ekareach Street Tel: 012 638 947 bar serves a variety of Khmer, Asian and the sea. Spacious sports bar with large TV screen Western food. Rooms are from US$20 to House of Malibu showing F1 and movies. Two pool tables US$35 and the restaurant is open from Star Inn Serendipity Beach Tel: 012 733 334 often with plenty of willing female oppo- 7am to late with Wi-Fi. Kep Beach Tel: 011 765 999 Nice, clean bungalows fronting the beach nents. It also has spacious rooms ranging Hotel overlooking Kep Beach that has with a pleasant garden. Rooms come from US$5 (fan) to US$20 (air con). Open Bonkors good sized and elegant air-con rooms. either with air-con or fans and have cable from 7am to late. Riverside Road, Kampot Rooftop restaurant serves seafood and TV. Prices are from US$25 to US$50, Next door to the British pub Rusty cocktails. It stays open to late at week- breakfast included. Orchidée Guest House Keyhole, Bonkors is a pub and wine ends. Rooms from US$20 to US$50. Near Occheuteal Beach bar, hosted by Terri and Richard. The The Independence Hotel Tel: 016 867 744 good selection of drinks includes cock- The Beach House Street 2 Thnou, Sangkat No. 3, www.orchidee-guesthouse.com tails and imported French wines, and air Tel: 012 240 090 Khan Mittapheap, Tel: 012 728 090 Slightly set back from the road, this small conditioning is an added bonus. Open www.thebeachhousekep.com Beautifully restored hotel on Indepen- place has a swimming pool and is a from 1pm to midnight, closed Modern hotel with aircon and good views dence Beach, originally opened in 1963, reasonable walk away from the beach. on Wednesdays. of the sea, swimming pool, spa, restau- reopened in 2007 following a complete Rooms are air-conditioned and cost rants and bars. Can arrange trips to Rabbit refurbishment. Infinity pool and sweeping US$10 to US$25. Epic Arts Café Island. Rooms from US$35 to US$45. ocean views from most rooms. Gym, Old Market, Kampot conference rooms and circular restaurant. Otres Nautica Employing deaf staff, this café next to the Veranda Natural Resort Rooms from US$110 to US$450 per night. Otres Beach Tel: 092 230 065 old market has a good range of bagels, Tel: 012 888 619 Boating company operating off Otres shakes, brownies and coffee. Open from www.veranda-resort.com La Maison Blanche Beach. Has catamarans, lasers, sailing 7am to 6pm. Traditional wooden bungalows set in the Victory Hill, Tel: 012 913 714 boats, sea kayaks as well as other hillside at the back of Kep, hot water and Hotel conveniently placed on Victory Hill’s vessels. Provides lessons and rental for Jasmine breakfast from US$20. Spacious family main drag and a few hundred metres walk beginner and expert sailors. House 25 Riverside Road, Kampot bungalows with aircon cost US$60. Also from Victory Beach. Opened in August with Tel: 012 927 313 has a good restaurant and bar with some rooms from US$6 (fan) to US$12 (air con). Paracambodia Run by the friendly Jasmine and her quite stunning sweeping views down to Tel: 012 709 096 husband Mark, this café/restaurant is a the coast. Le Vivier de ‘La Paillote’ www.paracambodia.com stylish addition to the Kampot riverfront. Victory Hill, Tel: 012 633 247 Company that offers powered paragliding, Serves tasty Thai, Khmer and café fare, Kratie Upmarket French restaurant that either through a four-to-five-day course it also has photography decorating the certainly outshines the other places on for US$650 or a two-to-three-day conver- walls, and dark wood furniture including Cambodian Craft Co-operation Sihanoukville’s late night drinking street. sion course for US$300. two large tables for groups. At Wat Roka Kandal A small craft centre selling wickerwork by Les Manguiers local artisans, housed inside Wat Roka 2 km North of Kampot, Tel: 092 330 050 Kandal. Funded by a German chamber Beautiful tiny resort set on the Kampot of trades and crafts. The baskets and side of the river a couple of kilometres handicrafts have marked prices. out of Kampot. Three rooms (US$15) and four bungalows (US$20 - US$25). Also Red Sun Falling has a restaurant with food prepared fresh Rue Preah Sumarit every day. Well-established western-run café and bar on the riverfront. One of the few bustling Little Garden Guest House places in the evening, it has tasty food Riverside Kampot with dishes in the US$1.50-2.50 range. Good value guest house well located near the old bridge on the riverside. Good Santepheap Hotel sized rooms cost between US$10 to Rue Preah Sumarit (the riverfront) US$18. Also has a restaurant open from Tel: 016 703 580 / 072 971 537 7am to 10pm. [email protected] Good centrally located Khmer style hotel Rikitikitavi facing the river, with basic rooms costing Riverfront, Kampot Tel: 012 274 820 US$15 including breakfast. [email protected] Superb western food is served up in mas- Sen Sok Guesthouse sive portions in this river-facing restaurant, South of the market, near the post office bar and three room guesthouse. A more Tel: 012 732 185 upmarket venue for Kampot, the upstairs [email protected] seating affords great sunset views. Rooms Small, friendly guesthouse with US$4-12 range from US$25-35 and are the most rooms. Set in picturesque peaceful part regional stylish in town. Restaurant and bar closed of town, a 5-minute walk inland from the on Mondays. Mekong. Excellent rooftop views of the surrounding countryside. Rusty Keyhole Riverfront, Kampot Star Guesthouse This riverside British pub is the place Opposite the market, Tel: 012 753 401 for expats to chew the fat over a pint [email protected] in this sleepy town. The friendly British A hub for arranging transportation and get- owner has created as close to the ting travel advice on travel to Ratanakiri, this atmosphere of a rural pub as you can in guesthouse has cheery, colourful and clean Kampot. Live premiership games, sunset rooms for only US$4 to US$5 a night. The happy hour, daily BBQs and a strict ‘no café serves up some of the most innovative missionaries’ policy make this a must. food and drink in town. Has facilities for Open 8.30am to midnight. storing motorbikes also available. Kep Sihanoukville Champey Inn Resort Cantina del Mar Tel: 012 501 742 Otres Beach, Tel: 012 702 502 Sea-fronted resort with fan-cooled Newly opened taco and seafood stall

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 77 regional

Reef Resort swimming pool and fine restaurants, Road from Golden Lion to Serendipity Sokha is easily the classiest place to stay Tel: 012 315 338 in Sihanoukville. A live Filipino band plays [email protected] around the cocktail bar at night. Rooms Small guesthouse set around a beautiful are available from US$85. Sihanoukville pool, very much in the style of the Billa- bong in Phnom Penh. Rooms have aircon Starfish Bakery Café Victory with in-room safe and cable TV. Family Behind Samadera Market Beach rooms also available. Has a welcom- Tel: 012 952 011 Victory Hill ing bar with excellent TV screen and a Excellent place for a healthy breakfast 9-ball pool table. Rooms from US$35 to or lunch set in a relaxing garden environ- Hawaii Beach US$60. ment with good bread, salads, sand- Ekar each Street wiches, juices and porridge. Has a Bus Scuba Nation small shop run by the Rajana Association Station Tel: 012 604 680 / 012 715 785 selling clothes and handicrafts. Good DDoowwnntntoowwn www.divecambodia.com place to go for a massage. Open for Five-star PADI centre offering daily trips to breakfast and lunch.

E the area’s many islands and reefs includ- ka Independence Hotel reach Street ing the decent dive sites at Koh Rung Sushi Square Luna d’autunno Samloem and Koh Kon. Also run a range Victory Hill, of PADI-certified courses. Have offices in Tel: 012 913 714 Phnom Penh, but check the website for Opened in August on the old site of mash information on the diving season. Melting Pot, this sushi restaurant is run Independence Otres by the same owners as Le Vivier de la Beach Beach Sea Breeze Reef Resort Paillote. Promises to add some variety to Sokha Beach Independence Beach, Tel: 034 934 205 Sihanoukville’s most cosmopolitan street. Australian-run hotel with large air-con Serendipity Beach rooms opposite Independence Beach. Top Cat BBQs include freshly caught fish and im- On road from Golden Lion ported steaks. The bar has a 9-ball slate

pool table and a large screen for sporting to Serendipity Beach Ochheuteal Beach

[email protected] ki-jumping. S elbourne M goal in Nets kating S peed S 30) 30) 29)

events. Rooms from US$10 to US$40. 28)

Opposite the Reef Resort, this luxurious

iathlon B litzen B & Donner Cupid, Comet, ixen, V Prancer, 27)

Snake House large screen movie house showing DVDs 26)

Dasher, Dancer, Dancer, Dasher, Capricorn beaks) 23 less legs (146 123 25) 25) 24) opened in August. The films are free 23)

Near Victory Monument, Tel: 012 673 805

but there is a charge for the air con and

oth males and females have antlers antlers have females and males oth B Poinsettia Gorbachev 22) 22) So called because there is a house with 21)

comfortable couches.

snakes run by some Russians, rather than

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vice versa. If reptiles are not your scene, 19)

- li O Indian and Pacific erod H ousetrap M he T Grimm 18) 18) 17) 16)

then the poolside bungalows and lush XXL 15)

rothers rothers B Narnia Knocker Door Women Little snow it 14) 14) 13) 12) gardens provide a great spot to stay. The Victory Hill, 11)

restaurant serves Russian and European Tel: 092 738 641

Let Let anger M A In way A M oney B by Child oy B ary’s M ork Y 10) 10) 9)

cuisine and the bar can get very lively at Belgium-run restaurant serving good 8)

ale of New New of ale T Fairy write I card Christmas every With impsons S 7) 7)

night. Rooms from US$15 to US$20. French cuisine including an excellent fillet 6)

he he T Carpenters ll A aydn H Caine ichael M Kaye Danny 5) 5) 4) 3) 2) steak and local fish. Slightly tucked away 1)

Sokha Beach Resort from the main Victory Hill drag, it has a

swers An iz u Q b u Sokha Beach, Tel: 034 935 999 good area for relaxing outside and also a P With its own private beach, excellent stock of Belgian beers. regional

78 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 This Month 79 Quiz 82 Unplugged Photo Essay 80 Sudoku 82

transplants,this monthlosses, births, firsts... in history

works, including some of the December 17, 1903 finest operas – The Magic Flute, Wright Brothers learn to Fly The Marriage of Figaro, Don Orville and Wilbur Wright made Giovanni and Cosi Fan Tutte. the first powered, controlled Initial speculation that he airplane flight near Kitty Hawk, might have been poisoned has North Carolina. Orville piloted subsequently been proved false. the first flight, which lasted only The precise cause of his death 12 seconds and covered 36.5 remains unresolved, although metres. The brothers made three Falcon Scott by 35 days. Whereas he did have a fever and it might more flights the same day, none all of the Norwegian’s party re- have been related to syphilis. of which lasted longer than a turned safely to their base, all of Despite his phenomenal output, minute. Although the validity of Scott’s team died on the Ross Ice the composer died penniless. these flights has been contested, Shelf, returning from the Pole. they have been accredited by Amundsen was also the first the International Aeronautical Dec 25, 1899 person to cross the Northwest Birth of Bogie Federation. The plane, Flyer I, Passage and to reach both the Hollywood’s most famous is on display in the National Air North and South Pole. He died tough guy was born Humphrey and Space Museum, in Washing- December 3, 1967 in a plane crash in June 1928. First successful heart transplant DeForest Bogart on Christmas ton D.C. South African doctor, Christiaan Day, 1899 in New York City. Barnard performed the first suc- Best known for his staring roles December 23, 1888 cessful human-to-human heart in films such as The African Van Gogh cuts off his ear transplant operation on Louis Queen, The Maltese Falcon, The Dutch expressionist painter Vin- Washkansky in Cape Town, Big Sleep and Casablanca, Bogie cent van Gogh cut off his left ear South Africa. The operation appeared in 75 movies. He won while suffering from depression, lasted nine hours. Washkansky an Oscar for Best Actor for his after arguing with his friend lived for 18 days following the performance as Charlie Alnutt in the painter Paul Gaugin. The operation, before dying of pneu- The African Queen. He was mar- artist suffered recurring bouts of monia. Barnard’s most success- ried four times most famously mental illness ultimately culmi- ful heart transplant patient was to Lauren Bacall, whom he met nating in his suicide on Jul. 27, Dorothy Fisher, who lived for while filming To Have and 1890 at the age of 37. Some of his 24 years after her operation in Have Not. Chain-smoker, heavy most famous works include The 1969. The surgeon died while on drinker and president of the Hol- Potato Eaters, Sunflowers, The holiday in Cyprus, not of a heart lywood rat pack, he died from Starry Night, Irises and Portrait attack as originally reported but cancer, aged 57 on Jan. 14, 1957. of Dr. Gachet. from an acute asthma attack. In 1999, he was voted as the Greatest Male Star of All Time by December 14, 1911 the American Film Institute. Amundsen reaches the South Pole Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen became the first person to reach the South Pole, beating British explorer Robert Unplugged

December 5, 1791 Mozart dies Possibly the most famous composer that ever lived, died in Vienna at the age of 35. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart composed over 600 musical

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 79 unplugged photo essay art in the making by virginie noel

Khay Samnang Playing with light Waiting

Patiently Unplugged

Khchao Touch Studies Grace of an Apsara

80 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007 unplugged

A southeast asian dinning experience! Watch staged traditional Royal Khmer dances. Our multi-cultural chefs offer you Khmer rice noodles, Chinese dim sum and a variety of other Cambodian, Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese dishes. Man Han Lou’s own beer brewed on the premises according to German brewing standards and using only natural ingredients, is served to you right where it is made. 456+ Monivong Boulevard Tel: 023 721 966

#12 December 2007 | asialife Phnom penh 81 unplugged

The QuizMaster’s Noeledge Sudoku mind games to keep you thinking Entertainment History and Geography Sudoku Prize Competition 1) Which male singer and dancer 16) Who was the King of Judea In this edition Gwan Ching Lee has chosen an easy puzzle co-starred with Bing Crosby in visited by the Three Wise Men for you to try. Once you have completed the puzzle you can the film White Christmas? on their way to see the newborn 2) In “The Muppet Christmas baby Jesus? enter our Sudoku Prize Competition for a chance to win a Carol”, which famous actor 17) There are two Christmas Is- mystery prize and a certificate of excellence from Gwan played Ebenezer Scrooge? lands. In what oceans are they? Ching Lee. 3) Which classical composer 18) In 1647, which ruler banned All you have to do is complete the Sudoku puzzle in this wrote his Christmas Symphony Christmas in England saying that edition of Asia Life to reveal the four numbers in the four in 1765? feasting and revelry on a holy shaded corners of the puzzle. 4) What did Karen, Richard and day were immoral? Joseph have in common? 19) Good King Wenceslas, origi- Start with the number you think belongs in the top left 5) Which cartoon family has a nally known as Saint Wenceslas, hand square and give the others in a clockwise direction. dog called ‘Santa’s Little Helper? was ruler of which country? Send the four numbers either in a text message to 012 20) Which leader of the Soviet 182 8237 or Email to [email protected]. Christmas Lyrics Union for almost seven years, All winning entries will enter the prize draw on Dec, 15, 6) Which line follows “I’m dream- stepped down from office on ing of a White Christmas” twice? Christmas Day? 2007. Sorry there will only be one winner. 7) The jolly words “Happy Christ- Good Luck! mas your arse, I pray God it’s our Science and Nature last” come from which song? 21) Which Mexican plant is 8) “Long time ago in Bethlehem, called the Flower of the Holy so the holy bible says” is the Night? Level: Easy Peasy beginning of which song? 22) What makes reindeer unique Gwan Ching Lee’s time: 5 mins 9) Which Carol contains the line amongst deer? “The cattle are lowing, the baby 23) In the song 12 Days of awakes, but little lord Jesus no Christmas - Add up all the legs crying he makes”? and take away all the beaks, 10) “It doesn’t show signs of what number do you have left? 5 1 8 2 stopping, and I bought some 24) Which Star Sign covers corn for popping: the lights are Christmas Day? turned way down low…” What 25) What are the names of 3 2 6 7 4 8 9 line comes next? Santa’s eight reindeer?

Art and Literature Sport 11) “Christmas won’t be Christ- 26) Which winter sport com- 9 mas without any presents” is the prises Cross Country Skiing with first line from which literary classic small-bore rifle shooting? written by an American woman? 27) In which Winter Olympic 5 2 1 8 12) On what did Marley’s Sport was the 5,000 metres ghostly face first appear to event won in a time of 6m Scrooge in Charles Dickens’ A 59.97secs? 6 8 9 7 Christmas Carol? 28) On New Years Day 1890, 13) In which fictional land is it al- what were used for the first time ways winter but never Christmas? during a football match 14) Who wrote the original story of in Bolton? 7 4 9 5 Snow White in which there were 29) The Boxing Day Test takes no dwarfs? place in which Australian city? 15) Which long-running West 30) In which winter sport is your 7 End play, set at Christmas time, “equipment” 46% longer than originally starred Richard At- you are? tenborough and was written by 7 1 4 2 6 9 8 Agatha Christie? Answers on page 78 ‘

N uff said 8 3 9 5

sudoku answers We can’t give you a puzzle without providing the answers. So here is the completed sudoku puzzle from the previous issue of AsiaLIFE. 5 3 1 4 8 6 2 9 7 9 6 8 5 7 2 1 4 3 4 7 2 9 1 3 8 6 5 1 5 9 8 2 7 4 3 6 6 2 4 1 3 9 7 5 8

3 8 7 6 5 4 9 1 2 Gwan Ching Lee 7 1 6 3 4 8 5 2 9 2 4 3 7 9 5 6 8 1 unplugged 8 9 5 2 6 1 3 7 4

82 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007

84 Asialife Phnom penh | #12 December 2007