BLTEE by Brian Lichtenberg Takes Off at Kitson by Andrew Asch Retail Editor
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Issue 15 Inspired by L.A
OTIS COLLEGE OF ART AND DESIGN MAGAZINE SPRING 2014 in this issue: 04 - ALUMNI AND FACULTY ISSUE 15 INSPIRED BY L.A. 06 - KEEPING IT SIMPLE AND FRESH: MEG CRANSTON 18 - OTIS REPORT ON THE CREATIVE ECONOMY: 1 IN 10 JOBS IN CA I remember L.A. as blackety-black shadows cast from brutalist blocks that take the history of architecture and reduce and contain it silently, like lunary tombs or Aztec temples morphed into Fome-Cor® cartoons. This kind of light makes decisions easier, more black and white. Good-vs-bad, pure-vs- impure, aspiration-vs-collapse, determined grim optimism-vs-self-indulgent despair. The suggestion of an old Hollywood mono- lithic black-and-white movie set encourages self-invention and self-consciousness as you make your way down an imaginary long white staircase. There’s not another living soul on the set and the spotlight is on you, wiping out any flaw or imperfection, hallucinating yourself into who you wanna be … exactly how I remember it … forward Fashion designer Rick Owens (’81) moved from L.A. to Paris in 2003. 01 03 05 06 1. George Maitland Stanley (’24) 2. Kent Twitchell (’77 MFA) 3. Judithe Hernández (’74 MFA) 4. Insung Kim (’97) 5. Robert Irwin (’50) 6. Hillary Jaye (’90) Muses Fountain, Hollywood Bowl Harbor Freeway Overture mural, New Spring, mural for the Expo Line for Hunt Design Associates The Central Garden, The Getty for Sussman/Prezja & Co. 1938 1993 Terminus Station in Santa Monica, Identity and wayfinding program Center, 1997 Wayfinding and bus graphics Photo courtesy: Hollywood Bowl opening in 2016 for downtown L.A. -
Glitter Text
All That Glitters – Spark and Dazzle from the Permananent Collection co-curated by Janine LeBlanc and Roger Manley Randy and Susan Woodson Gallery January 23 – July 12, 2020 Through the ages, every human society has demonstrated a fascination with shiny objects. Necklaces made of glossy marine snail shells have been dated back nearly 135,000 years, while shiny crystals have been found in prehistoric burials, suggesting the allure they once held for their original owners. The pageantry of nearly every religion has long been enhanced by dazzling displays, from the gilded statues of Buddhist temples and the gleaming mosaics of Muslim mosques and Byzantine churches, to the bejeweled altarpieces and reliquaries of Gothic cathedrals. As both kings and gods, Hawaiian and Andean royalty alike donned garments entirely covered with brilliant feathers to proclaim their significance, while their counterparts in other cultures wore crowns of gold and gems. High status and desirability have always been signaled by the transformative effects of reflected light. Recent research indicates that our brains may be hard-wired to associate glossy surfaces with water (tinyurl.com/glossy-as-water). If so, the impulse drawing us toward them may have evolved as a survival mechanism. There may also be subconscious associations with other survival necessities. Gold has been linked to fire or the sun, the source of heat, light, and plant growth. The glitter of beads or sequins may evoke nighttime stars needed for finding one’s way. The flash of jewels may recall an instinctive association with eyes. In jungles as well as open grasslands, both prey and predator can be so well camouflaged that only the glint of an eye might reveal a lurking presence. -
Fibres & Fabrics
BrIefInG fibres & fabrics By philippa watkIns European textiles are a strong force again. Their creativity and inventiveness, which has kept growing despite the years of difficulties and still prevailing uncertainties, is helping them out of crisis. Fabric Fairs such as MFS, Milano Unica and Première Vision were busy, maintaining the increase in visitors noted a year ago – even London’s little Textile Forum was buzzing with visitors. PV and Expofil recorded 53,065 visitors overall with EU visitors now accounting for 70%. Visitors from the US, whose economy has been showing signs of recovery, accounted for 5% and there was a surge in Asian visitors, mostly from Japan, South Korea and China. With buyers showing such interest, exhibitors were cautiously optimistic. Notable also are new techniques, and sheer craftsmanship, which create both a new PV Awards aesthetic as well as greater ‘sustainability’. There’s an air of responsibility, as the with a twist, masculine look. These fabrics industry works towards more sustainable are also printed – often in huge prints, and production. Use of water, for instance, is a double faced reversing print to plain. Italian serious issue, and new ways of water and Ratti, for instance, had a new ‘scuba’ cloth chemical free finishing are making headway – in a crêpe-type quality made with crêpe such as digital printing and laser technology. yarns, also printed, and Menta, always Even more spectacular is the development experimenting with extraordinary printing of new ways of finishing through ‘plasma’ techniques, had printed ribbed spacers. technology – one to really watch. While these fabrics have smooth volume, they are not flat – in fact nothing is quite PV AWArDs 2014 Trend area at Milano Unica flat. -
Sew Any Fabric Provides Practical, Clear Information for Novices and Inspiration for More Experienced Sewers Who Are Looking for New Ideas and Techniques
SAFBCOV.qxd 10/23/03 3:34 PM Page 1 S Fabric Basics at Your Fingertips EW A ave you ever wished you could call an expert and ask for a five-minute explanation on the particulars of a fabric you are sewing? Claire Shaeffer provides this key information for 88 of today’s most NY SEW ANY popular fabrics. In this handy, easy-to-follow reference, she guides you through all the basics while providing hints, tips, and suggestions based on her 20-plus years as a college instructor, pattern F designer, and author. ABRIC H In each concise chapter, Claire shares fabric facts, design ideas, workroom secrets, and her sewing checklist, as well as her sewability classification to advise you on the difficulty of sewing each ABRIC fabric. Color photographs offer further ideas. The succeeding sections offer sewing techniques and ForewordForeword byby advice on needles, threads, stabilizers, and interfacings. Claire’s unique fabric/fiber dictionary cross- NancyNancy ZiemanZieman references over 600 additional fabrics. An invaluable reference for anyone who F sews, Sew Any Fabric provides practical, clear information for novices and inspiration for more experienced sewers who are looking for new ideas and techniques. About the Author Shaeffer Claire Shaeffer is a well-known and well- respected designer, teacher, and author of 15 books, including Claire Shaeffer’s Fabric Sewing Guide. She has traveled the world over sharing her sewing secrets with novice, experienced, and professional sewers alike. Claire was recently awarded the prestigious Lifetime Achievement Award by the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers (PACC). Claire and her husband reside in Palm Springs, California. -
Women's Collection by Dorfman Pacific | Winter 2020
WOMEN’S COLLECTION BY DORFMAN PACIFIC | WINTER 2020 CALLANAN™ | AEGEAN | SCALA™ | SCALA™ KIDS | DPC® | FALL/WINTER 2020 For so long, people thought Dorfman was about selling hats. But really, we’re about our hat community. You see a hat is just an accessory, but our millinery community is fostered by the artisans that hand make our hats, local shops that display our creations, and our customers’ stories who wear them with distinction. This is coupled with our relentless commitment to service instilled by our founder, Jack Dorfman. Fashion trends are in a constant state of motion, but happy retail partners and valued customers are a constant for us. RIVERSIDE • LW749-ASST • PG 65 THE TREK • MC146 • MEN’S FW20 PG 78 An American Headwear Company Since 1921. Page 2 HANDMADE SINCE 1921 CONTENTS CALLANAN™ WOOL FELT ........................................................................... 6 WOOL BLEND ........................................................................ 8 HEADBANDS ......................................................................... 22 WEATHERED COTTON ........................................................ 24 BOILED WOOL ...................................................................... 24 SCALA™ WOOL FELT CLOCHE ........................................................... 31 WOOL FELT WESTERN ......................................................... 38 WOOL FELT SAFARI .............................................................. 38 WOOL FELT BOATER ........................................................... -
Sportswear Industry Data and Company Profiles Background Information for the Play Fair at the Olympics Campaign
View metadata,citationandsimilarpapersatcore.ac.uk Sportswear Industry Data and Company Profiles Background information for the Play Fair at the Olympics Campaign Clean Clothes Campaign March 1, 2004 provided by brought toyouby DigitalCommons@ILR 1 CORE Table of Contents: page Introduction 3 Overview of the Sportswear Market 6 Asics 24 Fila 38 Kappa 58 Lotto 74 Mizuno 88 New Balance 96 Puma 108 Umbro 124 Yue Yuen 139 Li & Fung 149 References 158 2 Introduction This report was produced by the Clean Clothes Campaign as background information for the Play Fair at the Olympics campaign, which starts march 4, 2004 and aims to contribute to the improvement of labour conditions in the sportswear industry. More information on this campaign and the “Play Fair at Olympics Campaign report itself can be found at www.fairolympics.org The report includes information on Puma Fila, Umbro, Asics, Mizuno, Lotto, Kappa, and New Balance. They have been labeled “B” brands because, in terms of their market share, they form a second rung of manufacturers in the sportswear industries, just below the market leaders or the so-called “A” brands: Nike, Reebok and Adidas. The report purposefully provides descriptions of cases of labour rights violations dating back to the middle of the nineties, so that campaigners and others have a full record of the performance and responses of the target companies to date. Also for the sake of completeness, data gathered and published in the Play Fair at the Olympics campaign report are copied in for each of the companies concerned, coupled with the build-in weblinks this provides an easy search of this web-based document. -
Get Warm Stay Cool a Family Tradition
SUSTAINABLE FUNCTIONAL multi- LOVABLE COMFORTABLE FASHIONABLE functional ELASTIC fire resistant t T S eco-friendly 100% TE TURAL TEMPERATURE long COLOURFUL REGULATING NA lasting INSULA WHEN WE WOOL breathable anti- warm and cool hypoallergenic UV static resistant flexible BIODEGRADABLE sustainable indoor SOFT made for moisture air regulating quality odour resistan recycling improves ANTI- lovable WRINKLE URBAN OUTDOOR IVANHOE WOOL IVANHOE WOOL THIRD GENERATION running the business Get warm stay cool A family tradition The family firm of Ivanhoe was founded in 1946 in Gällstad, a district known as Sweden’s own knitting centre, where the traditions and pioneering spirit of fine garment making still live on. Ivanhoe manufactures and sells clothes for active people and several generations of experience and competence enable us to continuously develop both base and functional garments. The company was founded by Martin Göthager, and has since the 80’s been run by his three sons. Today the third generation - Anders, Anna and Karin - are the ones taking the business forward, with pride and high hopes for the future. Martin Göthager - founded the company in 1946 Karin Sjögren, Anders Göthager & Anna Göthager - third generation This picture was taken in 1960, and still today we have our own production facility in Gällstad where approximately 90% of all knitting takes place. We also have our design- and sample department, embroidery service and a small sewing deparment here. Additional production takes place in partner factories around Europe. Having production in Sweden and Europe gives us control, flexibility, shorter lead times and shorter transportations. We can act and react quickly and can adjust production to demand and easily develop new products in season. -
Women in Apparel Technology—How Far Have They Come?
NEWSPAPER 2ND CLASS $2.99 VOLUME 75, NUMBER 19 MAY 10–16, 2019 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 74 YEARS Women in Apparel Technology—How Far Have They Come? By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor In 2018, two female researchers studied women in tech- nology and asked this question: Do technology companies alienate women in recruiting sessions? The answer was yes. After observing 84 recruitment ses- sions by technology companies on a university campus in the United States, researchers Shelley Correll, head of Stanford University’s Clayman Institute for Gender Research, and Alison Wynn, a postdoctoral researcher, found that fe- male candidates pursuing quantitative degrees in technology fields were often subjected to gender-imbalanced interviews, which left qualified women feeling discouraged. Together they published “Puncturing the Pipeline: Do Technology Companies Alienate Women in Recruiting Ses- sions?” ➥ Technology page 3 Max Azria, Founder of the BCBGMaxAzria Group, Passes Away in Houston By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor Max Azria, whose imprint on the Los Angeles fashion world is legendary, passed away on May 6 at The Univer- sity of Texas MD Anderson Cancer Center in Houston. He was 70. Sources close to Azria said he died of lung cancer. Azria, who was the youngest of six children and was born in Sfax, Tunisia, on Jan. 1, 1949, grew up in France and later came to the United States in 1981 after designing women’s apparel in Paris for 11 years. His first fashion venture in Los Angeles was Jess, a chain of new-concept boutiques offering hip French fashion to American women. -
Fidm. Welcome to Your Future
8 WELCOME TO FIDM. WELCOME TO YOUR FUTURE. You have unique aspirations for your life and FIDM offers the educational pathways and guidance to discover the successful future you envision. We’re a one-of-a-kind college of the applied arts, where your creative talent, academic engagement, and determination are fostered by a dedicated faculty and staff. You’ll also be energized by fellow students from diverse 9 backgrounds, across the country and around the globe, with creative objectives and ideas like yours. Part of the stimulating campus life at FIDM comes from career guidance, student activities that include challenging projects, exposure to industry experts, and cultural experiences. FIDM is strategically located for immersion in California's vibrant life and business climate that offer endless under- takings and activity. Key industries are entertainment, fashion, business management, action sports, and the arts. We invite you to take a bold step, walk through our doors and join our learning community. You’ll uncover not just the profession that you imagine, but the knowledge to take you there. “As you walk, and sometimes run, through your future, take time each day to enjoy the journey.” FIDM President Tonian Hohberg: Since founding the college, her unparalleled and intelligent foresight has defined FIDM from the very first day. 12 FIDM’S MISSION FIDM Los Angeles campus FIDM’s engaging learning environment and rigorous programs of study develop graduates who become leaders in the industries of global design and business. Under the guidance of faculty who are industry professionals, FIDM Students learn to strategically integrate design thinking with technology, producing work that is grounded in critical and creative thought. -
Christie's Specialist and Auctioneer for the Sale
CHRISTIE’S 20 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, NY 10020 Contact: Kate Swan 212.636.2680 [All sold prices include buyer’s premium] Mackie: Costume & Couture from the Private Archives of Bob Mackie November 22, 2005 Sold: $440,820 Lots offered: 150 Lots sold: 150 £:$1.72/ ¤: $1.17 £256,291 Sold by lot: 100 % Sold by $: 100% Sale No: 1610 ¤376,769 COMMENT: “Amazing and exciting,” said legendary designer Bob Mackie following the successful sale of designs from his personal archives this afternoon put on by Christie’s in conjunction with Julien’s Auctions. “This sale showed tremendous strength across all categories – not just the celebrity pieces,” said Cathy Elkies, Christie's specialist and auctioneer for the sale. “While we expected items associated with Cher, Carol Burnett and Elton John to perform well, we were thrilled to see Bob’s undeniably glamorous couture creations take off – with many pieces beating pre-sale high estimates by wide margins,” Elkies continued. “The success of this sale substantiates the collectibility of fashion and Bob Mackie,” added Darren Julien, President of Julien’s Auctions. LOT PRICE ESTIMATE BUYER 112 $22,800 £13,256/ ¤19,487 $3,000-5,000 Mr. Anthony Pugliese III An ornate Queen Elizabeth period-style costume worn by Whoopi Goldberg to the 1999 Academy Awards. 120 $17,400 £10,116/ ¤14,872 $1,200-1,500 Mr. Anthony Pugliese III A multi-red bias strapless evening dress with scarlet and black coque boa, worn by Diana Ross in the 1999 film Double Platinum and several times in concert. 25 $13,200 £7,674/ ¤11,282 $5,000-7,000 Mr. -
Apparel Industry Trends from Farm to Factory
APPAREL INDUSTRY TRENDS FROM FARM TO FACTORY FREE2WORK: THE STORY BEHIND THE BARCODE THE STORY BEHIND THE BARCODE: APPAREL INDUSTRY TRENDS FROM FARM TO FACTORY 2012 FREE2WORK, a project of This Apparel Industry Trends report was funded in whole by Lead Author: Haley Wrinkle, Free2Work Senior a grant from the United States Researcher Department of State. The opin- Co-Authors: Elin Eriksson and Adrienne Lee ions, findings, and conclusions International Labor Rights Design: Dwight Gilberg and Haley Wrinkle stated herein are those of the Forum advises the Free2Work author and do not necessar- program. We would like to ily reflect those of the United thank ILRF for its contributions States Department of State. to this report. 1 Introduction | Apparel Industry Trends highly visible to companies and where workers have a voice to negotiate working conditions and speak out against grievances. Two decades ago it was standard practice for an apparel company to publicly deny any responsi- bility to workers in its supply chain. After years of worker and consumer activism, the debate has As the Clean Clothes Campaign has stressed, these components will likely only create positive shifted and a number of companies have now developed extensive corporate social responsibility impact if used in conjunction.2 For example, a company can have strong written policies against (CSR) programs. A handful of companies are using these systems to facilitate positive changes modern slavery and gather information about supplier working conditions through in-depth moni- for workers. With Free2Work statistical data, we present an overview of apparel companies’ toring, but unless it uses these standards and information to correct grievances, we would not current range of responses to arguably the most egregious ongoing abuse of workers: modern expect it to create impact. -
Alcohol Brand Sponsorship Report: Identified Alcohol Brand Sponsorships – U.S., 2010-2013
Alcohol Brand Sponsorship Report: Identified Alcohol Brand Sponsorships – U.S., 2010-2013 Olivia Belt, Korene Stamatakos, Amanda J. Ayers, Victoria A. Fryer, and Michael Siegel Department of Community Health Sciences Boston University School of Public Health February, 2014 Online supplement to manuscript entitled “Alcohol brand sponsorship of events, organizations and causes in the United States, 2010-2013” Methods This study examined sponsorship of organizations and events in the U.S. by alcohol brands from 2010-2013. The top 75 brands of alcohol consumed by underage drinkers were identified based on a previously conducted national internet-based survey. For each of these brands, a systematic search for sponsorships was conducted using Google. This report identifies and briefly summarizes each of the 945 sponsorships identified in this research. TABLE OF CONTENTS ALCOHOLIC ENERGY DRINKS ....................................................................................................... 3 P.I.N.K. SPIRITS ............................................................................................................................... 3 BEERS .................................................................................................................................................... 3 AMSTEL LIGHT ............................................ 3 GUINNESS BEERS .......................................16 BLUE MOON ................................................ 4 HEINEKEN .................................................16 BUD ICE ......................................................