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1 The Best of

City of music, cafes, waltzes, parks, , and wine—that’s Vienna. Vienna is a true cosmopolitan center, where different tribes and nationalities have for centuries fused their cultural identities to produce the intriguing and, often cynical,Viennese. From the time the Romans selected a Celtic settlement on the Danube River as one of their most important central European forts, “Vindobona,” the city we now know as Vienna, has played a vital role in European history. grew up around the city and developed into a mighty empire. The capital became a showplace during the tumultuous reign of the Habsburg dynasty, whose court was a dazzling spectacle. The face of the city has changed time and again because of war, siege, victory, defeat, the death of an empire and the birth of a republic, foreign occupation, and the passage of time. Fortunately, the Viennese character—a strict devotion to the good life—has remained solid. Music, art, literature, theater, architecture, education, food, and drink are all part of Vienna’s allure. In the pages that follow, we’ll show you the brilliance this city has to offer.

1 Frommer’s Best of Vienna • Listening to Mozart: It is said Viennese vacation. The legendary that at any time of the day or DDSG, or Blue Danube Shipping night in Vienna, someone some- Co. (& 01/588800), offers 1-day where is playing the music of trips with cruises priced for every Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. You budget. While on board, you’ll might hear it at an opera house, a pass some of the most famous church, a festival, an open-air con- sights in eastern Austria, including cert, or, more romantically, per- towns like Krems and Melk. See formed by a Hungarian orchestra p. 137. in a Belle Epoque cafe. Regardless, • Watching the Lipizzaner Stal- “the sound of music” drifting lions: Nothing evokes the heyday throughCOPYRIGHTED Vienna is likely to be the ofMATERIAL imperial Vienna more than the creation of this prodigious genius. Spanish Riding School (& 01/ See section 1, “The Performing 533-9032). Here, the sleek white Arts,” in chapter 9. stallions and their expert riders • Cruising the Danube (Donau): demonstrate the classic art of dres- Johann Strauss used a bit of poetic sage in choreographed leaps and license when he called the Donau bounds. The stallions, a cross- “The Blue Danube”—it’s actually breed of Spanish thoroughbreds a muddy green. Cruising the river and Karst horses, are the finest is nevertheless a highlight of any equestrian performers on earth. 05_574574 ch01.qxd 3/22/05 11:16 PM Page 4

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Riders wear black bicorn hats with sure to visit Schönbrunn, the doeskin breeches and brass but- sprawling summer palace, which tons. The public is admitted to lies on the outskirts of the city and watch; make reservations 6 to 8 boasts magnificent gardens. See weeks in advance. See p. 113. chapter 6. • Heurigen Hopping in the • Biking Along the Danube: A Vienna Woods: Heurigen are rus- riverside bike trail between tic wine taverns that celebrate the Vienna and Naarn links interest- arrival of each year’s new wine ing villages, including Melk and (heurig) by placing a pine branch Dürnstein. As you pedal along, over the door. The Viennese rush you’ll pass castles of yesteryear, to the taverns to drink the new medieval towns, and latticed vine- local wines and feast on country yards. Route maps are available at buffets. Some heurigen have gar- the Vienna Tourist Office, and den tables with panoramic views you can rent bikes at the ferry or of the Danube Valley; others pro- train stations. See p. 46 and 136. vide shaded, centuries-old court- • Attending an Auction at yards where revelers enjoy live folk Dorotheum: Vienna is a treasure music. Try the red wines from trove of art and antiques, and as Vöslau, the Sylvaner of Grinzing, many estates break up, much of it or the Riesling of Nussberg. See goes on sale. The main venue for section 4, “The Heurigen,” in art and antiques is Dorotheum, chapter 9. Dorotheergasse 17 (& 01/5156- • Feasting on Tafelspitz, “The 0449), the state-owned auction Emperor’s Dish”: No Austrian house. Founded in 1707, it dish is more typical than the fabled remains one of the great European tafelspitz (boiled beef) favored by depositories of objets d’art. Items Emperor Franz Joseph. Boiled beef here are likely to be expensive; if sounds dull, but tafelspitz is far you’re looking for something more from bland. A tender delicacy, the affordable, try the summer Satur- “table end” cut absorbs a variety of day and Sunday outdoor art and flavors, including juniper berries, antiques market along the celery root, and onions. Apple- Danube Canal (between Schwe- and-horseradish sauce further denbrücke and Salztorbrücke). enlivens the dish, which is usually See p. 159. served with fried grated potatoes. • Savoring the Legendary Sacher- For Vienna’s best tafelspitz, try the torte: Café (& 01/535- Sacher Restaurant, in the 1717), the most famous cafe in Wien (& 01/ Vienna, has a long-standing feud 514560). See p. 85. with the Sacher Hotel Restau- • Revisiting the Habsburgs: One of rant, in the Hotel Sacher Wien the great dynastic ruling families of (& 01/514560), over who has the Europe, the Habsburgs ruled the right to sell the legendary and Austro-Hungarian Empire from original , a rich choco- their imperial court in Vienna. You late cake with a layer of apricot can still witness their grandeur as jam. Actually, a court settled the you stroll through the Inner City. matter in 1965, ruling in favor of The , the family’s winter Hotel Sacher. But Demel still palace, is a living architectural text- claims that the chef who invented book, dating from 1279. Also be the torte brought “the original 05_574574 ch01.qxd 3/22/05 11:16 PM Page 5

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recipe” with him when he left the facilities, including tennis courts Sacher to work for Demel. Settle and a golf course. See p. 132. the dispute yourself by sampling • Enjoying a Night at the Opera: the Sachertorte at both of these Nothing is more Viennese than venerated establishments. See dressing up and heading to the p. 103 and 85. Staatsoper, one of the world’s • Unwinding in a Viennese Coffee- greatest opera houses, where house: The coffeehouse still flour- ascending the grand marble stair- ishes here in its most perfect form. case is almost as exhilarating as the You can spend hours reading show. Built in the 1860s, the Staat- newspapers (supplied free), writ- soper suffered severe damage dur- ing memoirs, or planning the rest ing World War II. It reopened in of your stay in Vienna. And of 1955 with a production of course there’s the coffee, prepared Beethoven’s Fidelio, marking Aus- 20 to 30 different ways, from tria’s independence from occupa- weissen ohne (with milk) to mocca tion. Both Richard Strauss and gespritzt (black with a shot of rum Gustav Mahler directed here, and or brandy). A glass of ice-cold the world’s most renowned opera water always accompanies a cup of stars continue to perform, accom- coffee in Vienna, as well as the panied, of course, by the Vienna world’s most delectable or Philharmonic Orchestra. See slice of cake. See section 14, p. 170. “Coffeehouses & Cafes,” in chap- • Hearing the Vienna Boys’ ter 5. Choir: In this city steeped in • Strolling the Kärntnerstrasse: musical traditions and institu- Lying at the heart of Viennese life tions, one group has distinguished is the bustling, pedestrian-only itself among all others: the Vienna Kärntnerstrasse. From morning to Boys’ Choir, or Wiener Sänger- night, shoppers parade along knaben. Created by that great the merchandise-laden boulevard; patron of the arts, Maximilian I, street performers, including musi- in 1498, the choir still performs cians and magicians, are always Masses by Mozart and Haydn at out to amuse. For a break, retreat the Hofburgkapelle on Sundays to one of the cafe terraces for some and holidays from September of the best people-watching in through June. See p. 110. Vienna. See “Walking Tour 1: • Discovering the Majesty of St. Imperial Vienna,” in chapter 7. Stephan’s Cathedral: Crowned • Playing at the Prater: Ever since by a 137m (450-ft.) steeple, Emperor Joseph II opened the Dompfarre St. Stephan, Vienna’s Prater to the public in the 18th cathedral, is one of Europe’s great century, the Viennese have flocked Gothic structures. Albert Stifter, to the park for summer fun. The the acclaimed Austrian writer, Prater has abundant tree-lined wrote that its “sheer beauty lifts paths on which to jog or stroll (the the spirit.” The cathedral’s vast Viennese, in general, are much tiled roof is exactly twice the fonder of strolling). The amuse- height of its walls. Intricate altar- ment park boasts a looming Ferris pieces, stone canopies, and mas- wheel that was immortalized in the terful Gothic sculptures are just Orson Welles film . some of the treasures that lie Open-air cafes line the park, which within. Climb the spiral steps to also provides an array of sports the South Tower for a panoramic view of the city. See p. 114. 05_574574 ch01.qxd 3/22/05 11:16 PM Page 6

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Did You Know? The Viennese have always been hospitable to foreigners, except during a time in the late 18th century when the emperor felt that tourists might spread pernicious ideas. Non-Austrians were limited to a 1-week stay in the capital.

2 Best Hotel Bets For the details on these and other like to treat their clients to dinner , see chapter 4. at the Bristol’s elegant restaurant, • Best Historic Hotel: Built in Korso bei der Oper. See p. 56. 1869, the Hotel Imperial (& 800/ • Best for a Romantic Getaway: 325-3589 in the U.S., or 01/ Set on 15 acres of manicured gar- 501100) is the “official guest house dens, Hotel im Palais Schwarzen- of Austria.” It has presided over berg (& 01/798-4515) has an much of the city’s history, from the elegant, even noble atmosphere. heyday of the Austro-Hungarian Although perched in the center of Empire to defeat in two world a city, it feels like an old country wars. All the famous and infamous estate. Built 3 centuries ago by the of the world have checked in. Wag- baroque masters Hildebrandt and ner, for example, worked on key Fisher von Erlach, the palace sections of both Tannhäuser and remains a luxurious world of crys- Lohengrin here in 1875, and some tal, marble, and gilt. See p. 69. of the great cultural icons of this • Best for Families: Only a 4- century—from Margot Fonteyn to minute walk from St. Stephan’s —have been Cathedral, Hotel Kärntnerhof guests. See p. 57. (& 01/512-1923) is a small, kid- • Best Trendy Hotel: Created by friendly hotel in the center of the famous English architect Sir Vienna. It offers a superb location, Terence Conran, Hotel Das Tri- attentive staff, and good prices. est (& 01/589-18) attracts the Rooms are spacious enough to artistic elite to its stylish precincts accommodate families and come near St. Stephan’s. Originally a equipped with modern amenities. stable, it’s come a long way, baby, See p. 66. and now is elegant, luxurious, and • Best Moderately Priced Hotel: stylish. Rooms are decorated with In the heart of Old Vienna, less a distinctive flair. See p. 60. than a block from the cathedral, • Best for Business Travelers: With Hotel Royal (& 01/515680) was state-of-the-art business equip- completely rebuilt in 1982. In this ment and an incredibly helpful price bracket, not many hotels can staff, the Hotel Bristol (& 888/ compete with the Royal in terms 625-5144 in the U.S., or 01/515- of class. In the lobby, you’ll find 160) is the choice of international the piano Wagner used when he business travelers. Some suites are was composing Die Meistersinger large enough for business meet- Von Nürnberg. See p. 64. ings, and room service will quickly • Best Budget Hotel: Near the deliver hors d’oeuvres and cham- Opera in the heart of Vienna, pagne (for a price, of course) when Hotel-Pension Suzanne (& 01/ you close the deal. Many guests 513-25-07) offers a warm, inviting 05_574574 ch01.qxd 3/22/05 11:16 PM Page 7

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interior and affordable bedrooms Twain and Theodore Roosevelt. furnished in a comfortable, tradi- See p. 56. tional style. The Strafinger family • Best Health Club: The Hilton welcomes you to their attractive, Vienna (& 800/445-8667 in the cozy accommodations, some com- U.S., or 01/717000) sponsors the ing with kitchenettes. See p. 66. Pyrron Health Club (under differ- • Best Pension (B&B): Near the ent management) on its premises. busy Mariahilferstrasse, Pension This is, by far, the most profes- Altstadt Vienna (& 01/522- sional health club in town, with 66-66) has an elegant atmosphere state-of-the-art equipment and exemplified by its colorful, velvet- facilities for both men and laden Red Salon lounge. The women. See p. 68. rooms don’t disappoint either: • Best Hotel Pool: Of the three Each is the work of an individual hotels in town that have pools, the designer and has high ceilings, biggest and best is in the Euro antiques, and parquet floors. This Freizeit und Fitness spa in the is hardly a lowly pension, but a windowless cellar of the Vienna fair-priced and prestigious address Marriott (& 888/236-2427 in with its own special charms. See the U.S., or 01/515180). It’s p. 74. about 11×7.2m (36×24 ft.) and • Best Service: The Hotel de ringed with potted plants and France (& 01/31368), near the tables. The spa has a pair of Votivkirche, is hardly the best saunas, an exercise room, and hotel in Vienna, but the attentive massage facilities. Marriott guests and highly professional staff makes enter free; nonguests pay 14€ a stay here particularly delightful. ($17) to use the pool and fitness Room service is efficient, messages center, 19€ ($23) for the pool, fit- are delivered promptly, and the ness center, and sauna. It’s open housekeepers turn down your bed daily from 7am to 10pm. See at night. See p. 56. p. 59. • Best Location: Although it’s no • Best Views: Overlooking the Bristol or Imperial, the Hotel Danube Canal, the 18-story Ambassador (& 01/961610) is Hilton Vienna (see earlier entry, definitely where you want to be. “Best Health Club”) offers The hotel lies between the State panoramic views from its top Opera and St. Stephan’s, with the floors. Plush accommodations Kärntnerstrasse on the other side. and elegant public rooms also lure The Ambassador has enjoyed its guests. The cityscape views are position here since 1866, and it quite dramatic at both dawn and has played host to both Mark sunset. See p. 68.

3 Best Dining Bets For details on these and other restau- a delectable boiled beef dinner rants, see chapter 5. that’s still served here, along with • Best Spot for a Romantic Din- various Viennese and interna- ner: The Sacher Hotel Restau- tional dishes. And the fabled rant, in the Hotel Sacher Wien Sachertorte was invented here. See (& 01/514560), is a showcase p. 85. for imperial Vienna. Franz • Best Spot for a Business Lunch: Joseph’s favorite dish was tafelspitz, Most afternoons you’ll find the 05_574574 ch01.qxd 3/22/05 11:16 PM Page 8

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movers and shakers of Vienna at • Most Stylish Restaurant: Bankers, Korso bei der Oper, in the Hotel diplomats, and Helmut Lang–clad Bristol (& 01/5151-6546). The hipsters agree on only one thing: refined menu features Viennese Mörwald im Ambassador (& 01/ and international , and 961-61-0) is the most fashionable guests can conduct business with joint in town. Noted for its first- the assurance of good food and rate Viennese cuisine, it virtually impeccable, unobtrusive service. celebrates food itself. What a pleas- See p. 85. ure to cross its threshold. All the • Best Spot for a Celebration: specialties are perfectly prepared When you want to take your sig- and imaginative. Look your best if nificant other or a group of friends you show up at this stylish enclave to a special place, Altwienerhof of fine dining. See p. 85. (& 01/892-6000), serving Aus- • Best for Kids: Gulaschmuseum trian and French cuisine, is a dis- (& 01/512-1017) will make a criminating choice. A private goulash lover out of the most home in the 1870s, it is now one stubborn of kids. Inspired by of the city’s premier restaurants. , the kitchen prepares Of course, if it’s a real celebration, some 15 varieties of this world- you’ll order champagne, but if not, famous dish. You can trick your you’ll find one of Vienna’s largest child and tell him (or her) it’s beef wine cellars here. See p. 102. stew. Chances are, after sampling • Best Cafe Dining: Installed in the one of the goulashes here, your old glassed-in palm garden of kid may never want to return to Kaiser Franz Josef’s palace, Pal- that boring old beef stewpot menhaus (& 01/533-1033) has again. See p. 92. been restored to its original splen- • Best Viennese Cuisine: If the dor. The hottest cafe restaurant in empire were ever restored in Aus- Vienna, it features well-honed tria, you’d want to take the new . See p. 89. Kaiser or Kaiserin to Drei • Best Decor: At Steirereck (& 01/ Husaren (& 01/512-10920). 713-3168), which means “corner Expect an impeccably prepared of Styria,” the decor is pristine and meal containing the finest ingredi- pure, with original beams and ents. Antiques and abundant archways transplanted from an old flowers add to the elegant setting, Styrian castle. Murals also add to but the focus is the delectable the elegant ambience, but the menu. It includes a nightly reper- food is what brings most guests toire of some 35 hors d’oeuvres. here. See p. 95. See p. 84. • Best Wine List: There are far • Best Italian Cuisine: Homemade more elegant restaurants in pastas in savory sauces are the Vienna and far better places serv- draw at Firenze Enoteca, in the ing haute cuisine, but the wine list Hotel Royal (& 01/513-4374), at Wiebels Wirtshaus (& 01/ in the heart of Vienna, near St. 512-3986) is definitely for the Stephan’s Cathedral. Most of the connoisseur. Discerning Austrians food is Tuscany-inspired, with flock here for the simple but tasty some salutes to other regions of food and a wine list that includes Italy. See p. 87. some 250 varieties. All the vin- • Best Hungarian Cuisine: If you tages are Austrian. Very patriotic. can’t visit neighboring Budapest, See p. 86. you can get a taste of Hungarian 05_574574 ch01.qxd 3/22/05 11:16 PM Page 9

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fare at Kardos (& 01/512-6949). cuisine and a stellar wine list only Try all the Gypsy schmaltz enhance this summer delight. See favorites, including Lake Bala- p. 94. ton–style fish soup. See p. 88. • Best Afternoon Tea: Situated • Best Seafood: The freshest across from the Hofburg, the seafood in Vienna—flown in from grand Café Central (& 01/533- the North Sea or the Bosphorus— 3763) is an ideal location for a is available in the center of town at spot of tea. The decor evokes the the Kervansaray und Hummer rich trappings of late imperial Bar (& 01/512-8843). Here, Vienna. You’ll find a wide selec- you’ll find Vienna’s finest lobster tion of tea (and coffee) as well as a catch. See p. 84. rich variety of pastries and • Best Brew Restaurant: How Vien- desserts. See p. 103. nese to take your affordable food • Best Brunch: In a style that (large portions) and your suds at would have impressed Maria the same complex: Siebenstern- Theresa herself, Café Imperial, in Bräu (& 01/5232580). Big and the Hotel Imperial (& 01/ bustling, it serves an old-fashioned 5011-0389), prepares an out- Viennese cuisine such as potato standing breakfast buffet on Sun- soup and apfelstrudel. Of course, days beginning at 7am. After lots of sauerkraut and potatoes brunch and a little champagne, accompany most dishes, the most the day is yours! See p. 104. popular platter being a big Wiener • Best Music Feast: To a true Vien- overflowing its plate. See nese, a meal is not a meal without p. 98. music. At Wiener Rathauskeller, • Best Desserts: Sweet tooths flock in City Hall (& 01/4051-2190), to the legendary Café Demel you’ll enjoy all the schnitzel and (& 01/535-1717). Café Demel sauerkraut you can eat while lis- took the Hotel Sacher to court tening to musicians ramble over the recipe for the original through the world of operetta, Sachertorte—now you can be the waltz, and schrammerl. See p. 86. judge. Demel also boasts Vienna’s • Best Picnic Fare: Head for the finest array of pastries and delec- Naschmarkt, the open-air food table desserts like gugelhupfs market that’s a 5-minute stroll (cream-filled horns). See p. 103. from the Karlsplatz. Here you can • Best Outdoor Dining: In one of gather all the ingredients for a Vienna’s most famous hotels, spectacular picnic and then enjoy Restaurant at Palais Schwarzen- it at the Stadtpark, the Volks- berg (& 01/798-4515) boasts the garten, or even in the Vienna most beautiful dining terrace in Woods. See p. 99. the entire city. Classic Viennese