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The Best of Vienna City 05_574574 ch01.qxd 3/22/05 11:16 PM Page 3 1 The Best of Vienna City of music, cafes, waltzes, parks, pastries, and wine—that’s Vienna. Vienna is a true cosmopolitan center, where different tribes and nationalities have for centuries fused their cultural identities to produce the intriguing and, often cynical,Viennese. From the time the Romans selected a Celtic settlement on the Danube River as one of their most important central European forts, “Vindobona,” the city we now know as Vienna, has played a vital role in European history. Austria grew up around the city and developed into a mighty empire. The capital became a showplace during the tumultuous reign of the Habsburg dynasty, whose court was a dazzling spectacle. The face of the city has changed time and again because of war, siege, victory, defeat, the death of an empire and the birth of a republic, foreign occupation, and the passage of time. Fortunately, the Viennese character—a strict devotion to the good life—has remained solid. Music, art, literature, theater, architecture, education, food, and drink are all part of Vienna’s allure. In the pages that follow, we’ll show you the brilliance this city has to offer. 1 Frommer’s Best of Vienna • Listening to Mozart: It is said Viennese vacation. The legendary that at any time of the day or DDSG, or Blue Danube Shipping night in Vienna, someone some- Co. (& 01/588800), offers 1-day where is playing the music of trips with cruises priced for every Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. You budget. While on board, you’ll might hear it at an opera house, a pass some of the most famous church, a festival, an open-air con- sights in eastern Austria, including cert, or, more romantically, per- towns like Krems and Melk. See formed by a Hungarian orchestra p. 137. in a Belle Epoque cafe. Regardless, • Watching the Lipizzaner Stal- “the sound of music” drifting lions: Nothing evokes the heyday throughCOPYRIGHTED Vienna is likely to be the ofMATERIAL imperial Vienna more than the creation of this prodigious genius. Spanish Riding School (& 01/ See section 1, “The Performing 533-9032). Here, the sleek white Arts,” in chapter 9. stallions and their expert riders • Cruising the Danube (Donau): demonstrate the classic art of dres- Johann Strauss used a bit of poetic sage in choreographed leaps and license when he called the Donau bounds. The stallions, a cross- “The Blue Danube”—it’s actually breed of Spanish thoroughbreds a muddy green. Cruising the river and Karst horses, are the finest is nevertheless a highlight of any equestrian performers on earth. 05_574574 ch01.qxd 3/22/05 11:16 PM Page 4 4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF VIENNA Riders wear black bicorn hats with sure to visit Schönbrunn, the doeskin breeches and brass but- sprawling summer palace, which tons. The public is admitted to lies on the outskirts of the city and watch; make reservations 6 to 8 boasts magnificent gardens. See weeks in advance. See p. 113. chapter 6. • Heurigen Hopping in the • Biking Along the Danube: A Vienna Woods: Heurigen are rus- riverside bike trail between tic wine taverns that celebrate the Vienna and Naarn links interest- arrival of each year’s new wine ing villages, including Melk and (heurig) by placing a pine branch Dürnstein. As you pedal along, over the door. The Viennese rush you’ll pass castles of yesteryear, to the taverns to drink the new medieval towns, and latticed vine- local wines and feast on country yards. Route maps are available at buffets. Some heurigen have gar- the Vienna Tourist Office, and den tables with panoramic views you can rent bikes at the ferry or of the Danube Valley; others pro- train stations. See p. 46 and 136. vide shaded, centuries-old court- • Attending an Auction at yards where revelers enjoy live folk Dorotheum: Vienna is a treasure music. Try the red wines from trove of art and antiques, and as Vöslau, the Sylvaner of Grinzing, many estates break up, much of it or the Riesling of Nussberg. See goes on sale. The main venue for section 4, “The Heurigen,” in art and antiques is Dorotheum, chapter 9. Dorotheergasse 17 (& 01/5156- • Feasting on Tafelspitz, “The 0449), the state-owned auction Emperor’s Dish”: No Austrian house. Founded in 1707, it dish is more typical than the fabled remains one of the great European tafelspitz (boiled beef) favored by depositories of objets d’art. Items Emperor Franz Joseph. Boiled beef here are likely to be expensive; if sounds dull, but tafelspitz is far you’re looking for something more from bland. A tender delicacy, the affordable, try the summer Satur- “table end” cut absorbs a variety of day and Sunday outdoor art and flavors, including juniper berries, antiques market along the celery root, and onions. Apple- Danube Canal (between Schwe- and-horseradish sauce further denbrücke and Salztorbrücke). enlivens the dish, which is usually See p. 159. served with fried grated potatoes. • Savoring the Legendary Sacher- For Vienna’s best tafelspitz, try the torte: Café Demel (& 01/535- Sacher Hotel Restaurant, in the 1717), the most famous cafe in Hotel Sacher Wien (& 01/ Vienna, has a long-standing feud 514560). See p. 85. with the Sacher Hotel Restau- • Revisiting the Habsburgs: One of rant, in the Hotel Sacher Wien the great dynastic ruling families of (& 01/514560), over who has the Europe, the Habsburgs ruled the right to sell the legendary and Austro-Hungarian Empire from original Sachertorte, a rich choco- their imperial court in Vienna. You late cake with a layer of apricot can still witness their grandeur as jam. Actually, a court settled the you stroll through the Inner City. matter in 1965, ruling in favor of The Hofburg, the family’s winter Hotel Sacher. But Demel still palace, is a living architectural text- claims that the chef who invented book, dating from 1279. Also be the torte brought “the original 05_574574 ch01.qxd 3/22/05 11:16 PM Page 5 FROMMER’S BEST OF VIENNA 5 recipe” with him when he left the facilities, including tennis courts Sacher to work for Demel. Settle and a golf course. See p. 132. the dispute yourself by sampling • Enjoying a Night at the Opera: the Sachertorte at both of these Nothing is more Viennese than venerated establishments. See dressing up and heading to the p. 103 and 85. Staatsoper, one of the world’s • Unwinding in a Viennese Coffee- greatest opera houses, where house: The coffeehouse still flour- ascending the grand marble stair- ishes here in its most perfect form. case is almost as exhilarating as the You can spend hours reading show. Built in the 1860s, the Staat- newspapers (supplied free), writ- soper suffered severe damage dur- ing memoirs, or planning the rest ing World War II. It reopened in of your stay in Vienna. And of 1955 with a production of course there’s the coffee, prepared Beethoven’s Fidelio, marking Aus- 20 to 30 different ways, from tria’s independence from occupa- weissen ohne (with milk) to mocca tion. Both Richard Strauss and gespritzt (black with a shot of rum Gustav Mahler directed here, and or brandy). A glass of ice-cold the world’s most renowned opera water always accompanies a cup of stars continue to perform, accom- coffee in Vienna, as well as the panied, of course, by the Vienna world’s most delectable pastry or Philharmonic Orchestra. See slice of cake. See section 14, p. 170. “Coffeehouses & Cafes,” in chap- • Hearing the Vienna Boys’ ter 5. Choir: In this city steeped in • Strolling the Kärntnerstrasse: musical traditions and institu- Lying at the heart of Viennese life tions, one group has distinguished is the bustling, pedestrian-only itself among all others: the Vienna Kärntnerstrasse. From morning to Boys’ Choir, or Wiener Sänger- night, shoppers parade along knaben. Created by that great the merchandise-laden boulevard; patron of the arts, Maximilian I, street performers, including musi- in 1498, the choir still performs cians and magicians, are always Masses by Mozart and Haydn at out to amuse. For a break, retreat the Hofburgkapelle on Sundays to one of the cafe terraces for some and holidays from September of the best people-watching in through June. See p. 110. Vienna. See “Walking Tour 1: • Discovering the Majesty of St. Imperial Vienna,” in chapter 7. Stephan’s Cathedral: Crowned • Playing at the Prater: Ever since by a 137m (450-ft.) steeple, Emperor Joseph II opened the Dompfarre St. Stephan, Vienna’s Prater to the public in the 18th cathedral, is one of Europe’s great century, the Viennese have flocked Gothic structures. Albert Stifter, to the park for summer fun. The the acclaimed Austrian writer, Prater has abundant tree-lined wrote that its “sheer beauty lifts paths on which to jog or stroll (the the spirit.” The cathedral’s vast Viennese, in general, are much tiled roof is exactly twice the fonder of strolling). The amuse- height of its walls. Intricate altar- ment park boasts a looming Ferris pieces, stone canopies, and mas- wheel that was immortalized in the terful Gothic sculptures are just Orson Welles film The Third Man. some of the treasures that lie Open-air cafes line the park, which within. Climb the spiral steps to also provides an array of sports the South Tower for a panoramic view of the city. See p. 114. 05_574574 ch01.qxd 3/22/05 11:16 PM Page 6 6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF VIENNA Did You Know? The Viennese have always been hospitable to foreigners, except during a time in the late 18th century when the emperor felt that tourists might spread pernicious ideas.
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