PRADA SELLS ALAIA/2 MCCARTNEY IN INNERWEAR DEAL/20 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • July 30, 2007 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Hoop, Hoop, Hooray Talk about razzle-dazzle. Holiday is the season of the hoops. Here, from top, styles in gold and amethyst from Nicole Landaw; gold from Shaun Leane; gold, chalcedony, sapphires and diamonds from Laura Munder; gold, ivory and lapis from Simon Alcantara, and gold, sapphires and diamonds from Eclat. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Questrom’s New Quest: Retail Exec to Help Grow Junior Chain Deb Shops

By David Moin llen Questrom has another project: ADeb Shops Inc. Questrom has been tapped as non- executive chairman of the 75-year-old Philadelphia-based juniors chain, which was acquired Friday by Lee Equity Partners for about $395 million. The announcement of the deal confirmed a WWD report July 3 that Deb Shops was up for sale. And Questrom has big plans for the 337-store chain. He said Lee Equity, where he is a senior adviser, is eager to expand the company and also will be pursuing additional opportunities See New, Page 28 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; JEWELRY ASSISTANT: NICOLE KEATING; STYLED BY TALYA COUSINS TALYA STYLED BY NICOLE KEATING; GEORGE CHINSEE; JEWELRY ASSISTANT: PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 30, 2007 WWD.COM Alaïa Buys Brand Back From Prada By Amanda Kaiser ples and custom-made garments. WWDMONDAY His complex on Rue de Moussy Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear MILAN — Prada SpA said Friday in the Marais, which includes that it has inked a deal to sell 100 a store, was — and remains GENERAL percent of Azzedine Alaïa SAS — a true cottage industry. In Allen Questrom has been tapped as non-executive chairman of the Deb back to the namesake founder September 2004, he even opened 1 Shops juniors chain, which was acquired Friday by Lee Equity Partners. for an undisclosed price. a three-room hotel there. “I thank the Prada Group for Right before the Prada-Alaïa EYE: New York foodies are hard to impress, but many were satiated by the its valuable and total support alliance was unveiled, the design- 4 sight of Catherine Zeta-Jones and Aaron Eckhart at the new Le Cirque. to the Alaïa brand during the er had been speaking with three FASHION: This season’s dreamy array of hoops gives new meaning to the last years,” Alaïa said in a state- suitors. Yet he had consistently phrase coming full circle thanks to a bold array of shapes, sizes and gems. ment. “I thank particularly and said he was not prepared to lose 6 personally [Prada chief execu- majority control of his house. With Wall Street’s concern over credit markets, analysts see a shift of tive] Patrizio Bertelli for the at- “I will never sell my name,” he 18 funds away from buyouts to more strategic deals. tention and the sensitivity that said in an interview with WWD he had and continues to have in at the time. “I would only partner Obituary...... 28 support of my work and I wish with someone who is prepared to him all the success he deserves accept the way I work.” Classifi ed Advertisements...... 29-31 for his group.” The Prada-Alaïa marriage Prada fi rst struck a strategic was an unlikely one, since it To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. alliance with the Paris-based paired the hard-driving industri- [email protected], using the individual’s name. designer in 2000 and later ac- alist Bertelli with the stubborn, WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT quired the fashion house as it slow-to-grow artisan Alaïa. But a ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. attempted to build a multibrand statement at the time of the deal VOLUME 194, NO. 20. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one luxury empire via a string of ac- said Alaïa “considers Prada as additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance quisitions. Prada has since sold the ideal partner for the devel- Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by off Helmut Lang and Jil Sander opment of projects, which will Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive to concentrate on its Prada and allow his work to evolve in a way Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Miu Miu brands. that suits him and in the respect Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return For the year ended Jan. 31, An Azzedine of his autonomy.” undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: Azzedine Alaïa posted sales Alaïa look Alaïa told WWD at the time SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA from spring 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE growth of about 30 percent to 13.2 of the partnership he chose INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit million euros, or $16.6 million. 2007. to work with Prada be- www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new Under the terms of the deal, cause Bertelli “was subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, Prada said it will continue to Alaïa, said the the only one who please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other develop and produce footwear brand sells in understood the Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list and leather goods for the Alaïa about 200 sales system of my available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. brand. points around house. He If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, Bertelli said Prada and the world. She knows my OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, Alaïa’s collaboration has pro- thinks the craft and he BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED duced “signifi cant results” for tie-up with appreciates MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR both parties. “Today Azzedine Prada helped art.” DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY Alaïa regains his independence, Alaïa develop Both men A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. while maintaining a collabora- its accesso- remained tion with our group. For Prada, ries business, mum on most this agreement is in line with including foot- terms of the MONDAY: New York Spring I Apparel Market (through the strategy to expand the group wear, which partnership, Aug. 10). and grow profi tability by focus- Sozzani said is which called ing on the development of the selling well. for the creation TUESDAY: The Conference Board releases the Consumer core brands in the world’s key “For once this of a foundation Confi dence Index for July. markets,” Bertelli said in the is an amiable deal in that would preserve Avon Products, Liz Claiborne Inc. and statement. the world of fashion,” she Azzedine Alaïa the archives of Alaïa. Inc. report second-quarter sales and earnings. Alaïa could not be reached laughed, noting Prada and Bertelli, however, told Coach Inc. reports fourth-quarter and year-end sales for further comment Friday, and Alaïa will continue to work to- WWD, “We have a significant and earnings. Prada executives declined addi- gether. “Alaïa is the best designer share in Alaïa’s business and we tional comment. in the world. He has a savoir faire made a sensible investment.” WEDNESDAY: Jones Apparel Group reports second-quar- Carla Sozzani of 10 Corso that equals no one else.” Later, it became known ter sales and earnings. Como, a historic retailer for Alaïa founded his fashion Bertelli had secured an option house in 1979 and gained inter- to buy Alaïa’s company over the THURSDAY: Gildan Activewear Inc. reports third-quarter national fame in the Eighties, next fi ve years. Prada, he said, sales and earnings. thanks to his stick-to-the-ribs would help the Alaïa brand tailoring, sexy evening dresses, grow and would begin produc- FRIDAY: The U.S. Labor Department releases the July snug knits and sculpted leath- ing some items for the Paris- employment report. ers. The designer also became based designer. Bertelli even Procter & Gamble reports fourth-quarter and year- famous for running his business hinted at the possibility of an end sales and earnings. on his own terms and calendar, Alaïa makeup line. In July 2001, showing his collections when Alaïa staged a show (rtw in the SATURDAY: Designers & Agents and Nouveau Collective, he felt like it and delivering middle of couture) for the press New York (through Aug. 6). sporadically. He is known, as for the fi rst time in years. He

well, to be prone to working at then expanded his footwear col- COMING THIS WEEK SUNDAY: AccessoriesTheShow, Moda Manhattan, FAME, any and all hours of the day or lection and entered the eyewear Americas, Accessories Circuit and Intermezzo night — breaking only to share category with the aid of Prada. Collections, New York (through Aug. 7). meals in his massive kitchen In November 2003, 10 Comme New York Intimate Apparel Market Week (through with a far-fl ung group of fashion Ltd., a joint venture between Aug. 10). friends. Comme des Garçons and Carla TBC, London (through Aug. 6). At the time of his company’s Sozzani, signed an agreement Margin and Pure London, London (through Aug. 7). sale to Prada, he had a single with Alaïa for the exclusive atelier in Paris of 12 people, who importation of the designer’s turned out ready-to-wear sam- brand within Japan. In Brief

● CARREFOUR SELLS IN PORTUGAL: Carrefour, the world’s second-largest retailer behind Wal-Mart, on Friday said it would sell its Carrefour stores in Portugal to Sonae Distribuição for 662 million euros, or $913.6 million at current exchange. The transaction includes 12 hypermarkets and eight gas stations that operate under the Carrefour banner. It does not involve Carrefour’s Minipreco hard discount network in the country. Carrefour has been unloading its less profitable operations to concentrate on promising markets. It recently sold business- es in Japan, South Korea and Mexico. Earlier this month, it said it would buy 250 hard discount stores in . In April, Carrefour bought 34 discount hypermarkets in Brazil for more than $1 billion.

4 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 30, 2007 WWD.COM

Edgar Ramirez in “The Taste of Summer Bourne Ultimatum.” New York foodies are notoriously hard to impress, but many seemed swayed Thursday by Catherine Zeta-Jones and Aaron Eckhart, who joined Eric Ripert, Drew Nieporent and co-host Martha Stewart at Le Cirque for lunch. The actors were promoting their new movie, “No Reservations,” and had even made pies with Stewart on the “Today” show. “I did see that Aaron had cheated on his crust,” said Stewart, who herself had rushed to lunch straight from shooting a Macy’s commercial, clad in a favorite pair of Gucci jeans in order to look “as tall and svelte as possible.” (FYI: It worked.) For his part, Eckhart defended himself, saying he preferred to work the grill than cook more complex recipes. “This is not a guy’s fi lm. There’s no football — all they see is aprons,” he joked. The night before, the fashion troops assembled when Charlotte Moss hosted cocktails in anticipation of the upcoming Couture Council of the Museum of FIT Award in September — which this year will go to Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz. Guests such as Francisco Costa, Arnold Scaasi, Mary McFadden, Zac Posen, Cece Cord and luncheon chairs Tiffany Dubin and Lisa Perry joined Museum of Latin King FIT director Valerie Steele in the garden, sipping Champagne while a roaring fi re set the scene Catherine rowing up in Venezuela, Edgar Ramirez imagined that he’d influence despite the 80-degree evening. Equally low-key Zeta-Jones in Gthe global population through a career in international politics. Instead, was the evening’s hostess, though she had every Michael Kors. the 30-year-old will be reaching out to the world via thousands of multiplex reason to be on edge. “I’m on deadline for a book screens in one of the season’s most hyped blockbusters, “The Bourne for Assouline,” said Moss. “But I wanted to Ultimatum,” which opens Friday. Nevertheless, Ramirez, who speaks fi ve have a cocktail in my garden so I might as languages, insists his two passions are not as polar opposite as they may well have it with a hundred people.” seem. “I’m an actor for the same reason I wanted to be a diplomat,” he Earlier that day, in upstate New says. “I’m fascinated by the human condition.” Yo r k , Marylou Whitney kicked off the Here, Ramirez demonstrates to WWD that he’s more than just a pretty face. 139th Running of Thoroughbred Racing at Saratoga Race Course SETTING THE STAGE: In addition to focusing on his sociological and political Wednesday with a luncheon for 80 studies in high school and college, Ramirez stayed active in theater clubs. guests. “I am going to do everything “I never thought of my interest as a career, just an inner fantasy,” he says. this year in Saratoga. It is my Aaron Then one of his professors saw him in a student film and encouraged him favorite place to be,” proclaimed Eckhart to take up acting professionally Francisco Costa the hostess of her myriad homes. — with one word of advice. “He warned me that one day, in a theater that seats 500, there might be four people. One will be leaving and one sleeping. I said, ‘Yeah, but if at least one person stays…’”

DEMOCRATICALLY INCLINED: An active participant in Venezuelan politics, Ramirez spearheaded the Venezuelan organization Dale el Voto (similar to MTV’s “Rock the Vote” campaign in the U.S.). Still, he insists he won’t use his work to promote any agenda. “I’m not interested in using my craft to make people think a certain way,” he says. “That’s not my job. I do not choose projects based on political belief.”

FAMILY MATTERS: “I come from a pragmatic household,” he says. “I grew up always having a plan. My parents had reservations, of course [about going into acting]. I managed to convince them I had a plan. I didn’t.”

ON HOLLYWOOD: “Even when you are in Los Angeles you can fi nd so many creative people who have nothing to do with the stereotype of Hollywood,” he says. “It’s a state of mind that could exist anywhere.”

FASHION FIGURES: As the grandson of a tailor, Ramirez has an appreciation for well-cut clothing and isn’t ashamed of it. As he says, “If fashion is so silly and so superfi cial, why do so many people care about it?” In fact, four years ago he attended an Alexander McQueen show with a friend from Marylou Whitney in Bill Tiffany Austria who was a jewelry designer and friend of McQueen. “I felt like the Blass with her husband, Dubin in Charlotte Moss in Diane von show was Cirque du Soleil.” John Hendrickson. Lanvin. Furstenberg with Zac Posen. — Emily Holt

A.G.: No, we never did. I was actually just about to consider themselves neurotic, so by virtue of the fact meet her mother there when we split up. that I might consider myself neurotic, I’m probably not FRENCH KISS as neurotic as some others who probably lack some ver since his breakout part in Richard Linklater’s WWD: So in the fi lm you were degree of self-refl ection….And I would E1993 “Dazed and Confused,” Adam Goldberg literally meeting her parents for the venture to guess, by the way, that has practically cornered the market for anxious, fi rst time? anyone who entertains people is quote- acerbic and socially challenged supporting roles. He A.G.: Well, I’d met her dad because unquote neurotic because I think appeared as Chandler’s chummy roommate-turned- he had come out once before. And there’s probably something neurotic stalker on “Friends,” starred in the blaxploitation you know we had really gotten along about needing people to sort of watch spoof “The Hebrew Hammer” and most recently given the fact that neither one of you, listen to you and tell you that was a computer geek opposite Denzel Washington in us actually spoke the other one’s you’re funny and tell you that you’re “Déjà Vu.” But the 36-year-old actor-writer-director language….I mean, the only English amusing and all that kind of thing. will assume leading man status starting Aug. 10, when he speaks is like “s--t,” “f--k,” “tits,” he appears in “2 Days in Paris” opposite Julie Delpy, and so on that level, we could both WWD: And I’d heard earlier in your who also wrote and directed the fi lm. Goldberg (Jack) communicate with each other, that career when you fi rst did “Dazed and Delpy (Marion) are a dysfunctional couple who, and sign language and hand gestures. and Confused” you considered after a disastrous trip to Venice, stop off in Paris to changing your last name to make it stay with Marion’s family (played by Delpy’s real- WWD: A lot of characters you’ve less Jewish. life parents), an experience ridden with cultural played, certainly this one included, A.G.: I was gonna go Goldstein. Just misunderstandings, overly friendly ex-boyfriends and tend to have a neurotic bent to to kind of split the difference. hypochondriac meltdowns. Fresh off a red-eye from them. Los Angeles, Goldberg chain-smoked his way through A.G.: I read that….And then I WWD: Yeah, that would have fooled a chat with WWD about anxiety, art imitating life and started making a list of characters them….By the way, you’ve got a kind cowboys at The Regency Hotel. I’d played who weren’t neurotic. Adam of Western theme going on right now Just so I could feel like I had a Goldberg with the cowboy boots, denim shirt, WWD: You and Julie dated in real life? more well-rounded career. “Saving mother-of-pearl buttons. Adam Goldberg: Right after doing a pilot [“True Private Ryan”: not neurotic. Tough guy. A.G.: I really like the Western clothes. Cowboy Love,” in 1999], we started going out and we went out shirts and boots are good because they come off in a for a year and a half. WWD: Do you consider yourself a neurotic guy in real hurry….Just putting something lurid in there in case life? you need that. WWD: Did you guys ever go to Paris together? A.G.: No, I think probably truly neurotic people don’t — Vanessa Lawrence MOSS, DUBIN AND COSTA PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; ZETA-JONES AND ECKHART BY JOHN AQUINO; BY AND ECKHART STEVE EICHNER; ZETA-JONES PHOTOS BY MOSS, DUBIN AND COSTA EVERETT UNIVERSAL COLLECTION PICTURES/COURTESY BY ERICKSON; RAMIREZ KYLE GOLDBERG BY SECTION II

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Nancey Chapman Suzanne Felsen Kristen Farrell Faraone Mennella 8 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 30, 2007 WWD.COM Accessories Report Demand Soars for Six-Figure Watches By Miles Socha Expensive watches from Audemars Piguet (inset), Piaget, Breguet and Corum are in high demand among the wealthy. PARIS — Owning a million-dollar home used to signal that one had arrived. In today’s new Gilded Age, how about purchasing a million-dollar watch? As wealth creation reaches unprecedented levels, uber- luxury is thriving at Switzerland’s top watchmakers. Whereas $5,000 timepieces used to impress, watches in excess of $100,000 are the new bellwether for the extraordinary. Watches with a tourbillon — a complicated mechanism to compensate for the effect of gravity on time — or dripping with diamonds easily climb into the seven fi gures. “It used to be stunning to sell a watch over $100,000,” said François-Henry Bennahmias, chief executive of Audemars Piguet USA. “Today, it’s no longer surprising.” Bennahmias said Audemars Piguet sold more than 80 watches priced at more than $100,000 last year. “This year, we’ll sell more than 100 [watches of that caliber],” he added. Executives said they see no reason for the trend to abate. These are, after all, boom years for high-end Swiss manufac- turers, with most of the major players, from Cartier to Omega, reporting high-double-digit annual gains. Industrywide, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry said sales of watches through the fi rst half of the year gained 15.5 percent, with luxury watches growing Wunderman. “Big sales are the norm for the moment, and not at as much as twice that rate. The growth is coming worldwide, from New York the exception.” to Hong Kong, as the increasingly wealthy splurge on rare, ultraexpensive Meanwhile, the trend is having a trickle-down effect to less- watches as collectors’ items. expensive mechanical watches by pushing average prices up “The growth is spectacular in high-end mechanical watches, above $40,000,” across the board. Brands traditionally geared to the midmarket said Caroline Faivet, president of Swatch Group US, which runs brands like — from Tag Heuer to Omega — have reported double-digit hikes Breguet and Blancpain. “We sell the watches as soon as we get them.” in average prices. Executives said it largely refl ects market de- Occasionally, that is a problem. Because of the labor-intensive na- mand for more sophisticated watches, such as chronographs or ture of the trade — the most intricate pieces take years to assemble watches sparkling with diamonds. — watchmakers can’t always keep pace with demand. Likewise, years “We see sales daily on price points that hover around $50,000 are required to train new watchmakers, making it diffi cult to rapidly retail,” said Andrew Block, vice president of Tourneau. “A $10,000 to boost production. $15,000 sale is no longer the highest sales of the day. We are witness- A prestigious name like Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Richemont-owned ing more and more sales made that eclipse the $100,000 mark.” brand, for example, has an estimated annual output of 50,000. Patek Executives conceded that, while the most expensive watches were Philippe made 38,000 watches last year, while Rolex produces more typically moving fastest in markets such as Russia and the Middle East, more than 500,000 watches a year. Americans were willing to spend big bucks on Swiss mechanical pieces. As in the art world, where limited supply has driven prices at auction “Obviously, we see a tremendous amount of Wall Street money being spent,” to spectacular levels, so, too, has the rarity of the fi nest Swiss watches said Block. added to their mystique. Often, editions are sold out even before they Faivet asserted that Americans have grown more educated in the intrica- are in production, as collectors scramble to get the latest releases. cies of fi ne horology over the last decade. “The demand is extraordinary,” said Jerome Lambert, chief execu- “It’s an appreciation process,” she said. “Only now is the U.S. grasping the idea of tive of Jaeger-LeCoultre. “Customers are ready to wait two years to get high-end luxury watches. They now understand that a watch that costs $40,000 doesn’t the watch they want.” exactly mean it’s clunky. It can also be understated, and that the price is linked to the Or more. Lambert said an order today for Jaeger’s new Gyrotourbillon art of the precision movement. There are $300,000 Breguets without a single diamond.” watch, a 300,000 euro, or $414,000 at current exchange, supercomplicated piece with Nonetheless, diamonds are the requisite status symbol for certain customers. But a tourbillon mechanism that rotates on a double axis, will be delivered in fi ve years. even that is changing as conspicuous consumption supplants restraint among infl u- “Finding buyers isn’t really the challenge,” said Paul Ziff, president of Zenith North ential tastemakers. America. “It’s producing the watches to fi ll the demand that keeps us up at night.” “The very expensive watches [in diamonds] used to be for the Middle East and Russia,” Severin Wunderman, the owner of Corum, the luxury Swiss watchmaker, said his said Philippe Leopold-Metzger, president of Piaget, which introduced a $2.5 million watch fi rm had sold 22 watches retailing for $1 million-plus through the fi rst six months this year. “Today, Europeans and Americans are also buying diamond watches. of this year. Two were sold in the U.S., three each in the Middle East and India, “It’s recognition that diamond-set watches aren’t ugly — but are beautiful objects fi ve in Southeast Asia and nine in Russia. “This trend seems to fi nd no end,” said in themselves,” added Leopold-Metzger.

Kline, Planet Blue, Blue Bee and Fred Segal. Other notable retailers that stock Gorjana are Henri Bendel Gorjana Heading to Asia, Fine Jewelry on Tap and Shopbop. With infl uential stores under its belt, Gorjana began By Rachel Brown edited,” she said. “I tend to stick with classic things. I to be worn by celebrities such as Paris Hilton, Mischa really don’t try to reinvent the wheel. It is Barton, Lindsay Lohan, Claire Danes and Sophia Bush. sing celebrities and simple designs as springboards, something that’s not a fl ash in the pan.” Eiko Uchida, who sells U.S. goods to Japanese con- Uthree-year-old jewelry brand Gorjana is spreading The fi ne jewelry collection will sumers at the Web site LA-celeb.com, no- across Asia and angling for a higher-end market. debut with 20 to 30 styles priced ticed the Hollywood contingent sporting Gorjana entered Printemps in Tokyo last year, hit from $500 to $2,500. Gorjana’s Gorjana and brokered a deal with the three South Korea stores in May and has signed a deal core line features about 200 styles Reidels to make the brand available with distributor Princess Mia to bring its wares to in sterling silver and 14-karat in the Japanese market. In Japan, Taiwan and China. The international expan- gold plate, with retail Gorjana Reidel, a 29-year-old for- sion is a prelude to Gorjana’s next endeav- prices from $45 to $145 mer assistant manager in Neiman or: launching a fi ne jewelry line this year for earrings, $55 to $205 Marcus’ jewelry department and intended to pique the interest of U.S. for necklaces, $130 to $265 a model who was signed with Ford, and foreign luxury department stores. for bracelets and $95 to $145 has become an attractive pitch person “Now that I am a brand and people for rings. Gorjana’s Blossom Hoops. for the brand. [have] heard of me, we really had to Marty Bebout, co-owner Gorjana weathered its fi rst year op- step back and say, ‘Where are we?’” of the Blue Bee stores in Santa erating on a shoestring budget to cross into the black said Jason Reidel, chief executive of- Barbara, Calif., encouraged Gorjana in its second year of business. The Reidels declined fi cer of Gorjana and the husband of de- to produce fi ne jewelry. Blue Bee has to disclose revenues, but Jason Reidel said sales have signer Gorjana Reidel. “There is a fork been carrying Gorjana since the brand’s tripled annually. Last year, the company also decided in the road where you can be like Juicy inception and retained it in the jeans to address the burgeoning male audience by develop- and have all this stuff or you can be like store even after several jewelry resources ing Griffi n, a men’s jewelry line that Reidel insisted David Yurman and be a big brand based on Gorjana Reidel were eliminated. Bebout noted that hoop ear- has “no skulls.” jewelry. We really see jewelry as the thing that rings, ring necklaces and stackable rings have Two out of Gorjana’s three top sellers this year — got us to where we are.” been robust performers. $45 G-ring earrings and $75 lace hoop earrings — were Gorjana Reidel said that the debut of fi ne jewelry “We love her classic simple shapes and we would introduced two years ago. The top seller is a $90 gold would follow the course paved by the lower-priced love to have them in gold with diamonds,” he said. three-petal necklace. For fall and holiday, brushed Gorjana items. The selection stays away from overly Created in Laguna Beach, Calif., Gorjana got its gold and woven braided additions will complement trendy looks. Stackable rings, everyday hoop earrings start in retail hot spots that increased the brand’s ex- the staple circles and petals. and diamond bands in 18-karat gold will be among the posure as the public’s appetite for celebrity mount- “I love to see a new style be popular,” he said. “That initial offerings, and she stressed that the pieces would ed. Gorjana’s domestic distribution list of some 300 means that we are moving in the right direction, but I largely be thin, textured and not littered with stones. stores has a formidable dose of Southern California’s love just as much, if not more, that an old design is doing “With the fi ne jewelry, I want to keep it basic and most recognizable names, including Intuition, Lisa well. That means that we have enough longevity.” 800.227.6533 CAROLEE.COM ©2007 CAROLEE

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The Guess corner at Posso the Spat Galeries Lafayette. Guess Jewelry Hits By Robert Murphy Capsule Collections PARIS — Guess wants to sparkle in Europe. The American fashion brand is blitzing the Continent with NEW YORK — The antidote to trade show sameness. a retail rollout of its jewelry line that launched this spring That’s the way Capsule bills itself, and it seemed to de- with licensing partner Sequel AG, the Swiss fi rm that produces liver just that. Some have likened the trade show’s role to Guess timepieces, as well. that of other contemporary streetwear shows established Guess also inaugurated its fi rst in-shop boutiques this month a few years ago: It provides a home to on-the-rise designers, without big brands or massive booths. at the Printemps and Galeries Lafayette department stores “We scoured the market,” said Edina Sultanik, co-founder of BPMW, the branding agency that pro- here. By the end of the year, Sequel hopes Guess jewelry will duced the event, held July 23 and 24 at the Angel Orensanz Foundation center. “We wanted designers be sold in 1,000 doors across , as well as “thousands” who did more than just create product. We wanted lines that told a story, that were progressive and more doors across Europe, mostly in Spain, , the U.K., contemporary.” Switzerland and , said Eric Russack, Sequel’s vice Exhibitors were chosen by Sultanik and other BPMW co-founders, Minya Quirk and president of jewelry. Deirdre Maloney, along with the Capsule advisory board of indus- “We’re going very aggressively in Europe,” said Russack, try leaders, buyers, bloggers and editors, including David Fisher of who noted that Guess would be present in 18 Printemps and 63 Bloomingdale’s and Christene Barberich of Refi nery29.com. The acces- Galeries Lafayette units in France by yearend. sories exhibitors were an eclectic mix of recognizable names alongside In the U.K., Russack said Guess’ main retail partners would lines that have only been around for a few months. Super sunglasses, for be House of Fraser and Debenhams. In Spain and Italy, he said instance, though the collection is only six months old, are already in 100 Guess jewelry would be distributed more in independent jew- stores internationally and have been worn by musicians Daft Punk and CSS. elry retailers because of the way in which the market is struc- The retro-looking, handmade acetate sunglass collection features two styles in tured. The line also will be stocked in Guess’ signature stores, 38 color combinations that wholesale from $48 to $69 at Pink Milano in Italy. which include nine units in France and a total of 116 in Europe. Mosely Tribe continued its role as the streetwise brother to Oliver Peoples, The company also runs 15 factory outlet stores in Europe. with sunglasses made from titanium, metal alloys and acetates that whole- Russack declined to give sales projections for Guess jew- sale from $60 to $150. At the show was a new style of shield that comes elry, which is concurrently launching in Asia and the Middle with replaceable lenses. East. Sources estimated that the business, which excludes the Colab, for its part, takes an unusual approach. The company col- Americas, could grow into an annual $100 million venture. laborates with artists from around the globe, turning their designs “The momentum for the brand around the world is incred- into limited edition sunglasses, with a maximum run of 1,000 pairs for Digby & Iona ible,” Russack said. “The strategy for the jewelry is a combined each style, that wholesale between $80 and $105 at BPMW. The inau- effort of department store and distribution in independent re- gural collection boasts designs from artists Perks & Mini of Australia, tailers.” Eboy of Germany, Geoff McFetridge of the U.S., Rockin’ Jellybean of Guess jewelry is arriving in Europe as branded jewelry in Japan and Neasden Control Centre of the U.K. general continues to build momentum, with brands such as Georgi Philip Pecenikov’s jewelry collection, Toy Me, strikes a Dolce & Gabbana resonating with a young clientele. It also slightly nostalgic cord. Pecenikov said he wanted his Milan-based line to comes as Guess ramps up its accessories profi le in Europe. The exude fun, to make customers smile and touch and play with each piece. brand opened its fi rst shoe store here this year as it moves to Inspired by childhood toys and objects from the Seventies and Eighties, the boost that business in Europe. mostly silver and rhodium-plated pieces, with touches of color in the form of paper and rubber bands, Prices for Guess jewelry range from 30 euros, or about $41 do that. The jewelry wholesales for approximately $50 to $150 at Cyana Lab in California, Pink Milano at current exchange, for a pair of earrings to 150 euros, or $206, and Nitty Gritty in Stockholm. for an elaborate necklace. A Guess Collection range, which uses It’s hard to believe that Gabriel Urist, who’s still sterling silver and semiprecious stones and is positioned to be in his 20s, already has been designing jewelry for 10 more upscale, is priced from 75 euros, or $103, for earrings to Gabriel Urist years. He began in high school at Michigan’s noted about 500 euros, or $687, for a complicated necklace. Interlochen Center for the Arts, and is now based in Sequel has experienced great success with its license New York. Urist’s collection consists of both custom for Guess watches, which are stocked in 20,000 retail outlets and reproducible pieces in sterling silver, gold and around the world. diamonds. His main-collection pendants, wholesal- “Growth has been double digit for the watches,’’ Russack ing from $35 to $3,500, range from sports logos and said. “We believe that, in time, the jewelry business can be as boots to pretzels, birds and stilettos. big as the watches.” The newest jewelry collection at Capsule was Digby & Iona, which was launched a year ago by The Guess corner Aaron Ruff. The Brooklyn-based designer fi nds at Printemps. inspiration in regional fauna and vintage ro- mance, to produce a sterling silver and gold col- lection, which includes birdcages, antlers and vintage keys, which wholesale from $50 to $120 at Archetype Showroom. In a category all its own, Posso the Spat is a col- lection of, as its name suggests, spats. Designers Marylouise Pels and Vanessa Giovacchini unveiled their line last March during Los Angeles Fashion Week at The Collective Show. The spats, wholesal- ing from $50 to $110 at Atlas Showroom, are made of Italian leather, sometimes crocodile-embossed, along with snakeskin and lambskin. The styles range from small pieces that fi t just around the foot to those that extend all the way to the knee, and the taller pieces have wires that allow the spats to be shaped into unique designs. Along with the accessories-only lines, others worth checking out are Ksubi’s Space Age sun- glasses at Peoples Revolution, as well as the point- ed sneakers and heels from Umbro by Kim Jones shoes at Press Offi ce and Ted Baker, respectively.

— Shoshanna Fischhoff BIANCHI STEFANO JOHN AQUINO; GUESSCAPSULE PHOTOS BY BY ®

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8DB:H::JH9JG>C<B6G@:I &:Vhi((gYHigZZi.i];aCZlNdg`CN&%%&+ I&'&'"+-)"(())lll#XVeZaa^cZlndg`#Xdb 12 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 30, 2007 WWD.COM Legwear Report Taking Big Strides as Turnaround Continues By Caroline Tell cluding disorganized leadership, unclear growth strate- all across the world, but we gies and unattractive collections. In 2004, sales bottomed have tremendous potential in A look WOLFORD, KNOWN FOR ITS BLACK LACE, IS SEE- out at 80 million euros, or $110 million. the U.S.,” Dahmen said. “We from the ing green. Dahmen took over in January 2004, after leaving have 23 boutiques here and fall rtw Holger Dahmen, chairman and chief executive offi cer Hamilton Worldwide, a Swatch-controlled watch com- have many open opportuni- collection. of the luxury lingerie, legwear and bodywear company, pany, and began turning around the company by stream- ties. This is country number met with U.S. managers and sales teams on Thursday at lining distribution and intensifying branding efforts. He one. We’d like to think of our- Christie’s Auction House here to disclose yearly fi gures, hired Antonio Berardi as creative director, who lasted selves as front-runners in the numbers that he was pleased to share. less than a year, and then Celine’s Ronald Van der Kemp market, by far.…We’d like to For the second consecutive year, the Bregenz, Austria- to improve Wolford’s style quotient. think we helped propel posi- based fi rm’s sales and profi ts were on the upswing in fi scal Dahmen is now intent on adding to Wolford’s nearly tive development as a leader 2006-2007. The company reported sales of 141.7 million 240 global points of sale, which include boutiques, in luxury legwear.” euros, or $194.7 million at current exchange, a 16.7 shops-in-shops, franchises and factory outlets. Last January, research percent increase from last year. Wolford said He is committed to opening 60 more retail lo- fi rm The NPD Group report- net profi t for the fi scal year ended April 30 in- cations by 2010. Each space will contain the ed that sales of shot up creased 84 percent to 6.4 million euros or $8.7 same logo and a uniform store design, both 26.9 percent, to $104.4 million, million. In the 2004-2005 fi scal year, the com- key branding initiatives that were absent from January 2006 through pany lost 4.7 million euros, or $6.4 million. before his tenure. November 2006, reversing a Dahmen also outlined his retail growth “We want to control where we are dis- double-digit decline in 2005. plan, which includes organizing the Holger tributed and how — what the windows Sheer sales also rose 5.2 brand’s franchise distribution, expand- Dahmen look like, where the product is placed,” percent to $916.4 million. ing ready-to-wear looks and opening more Dahmen said. “We are about controlled Legwear has been labeled a Wolford boutiques. distribution. The biggest asset we have is hot accessory for fall, and was “I attribute our sales increase to two major our brand. In terms of marketing, we had all over the fall runway. Most of it was supplied by Wolford. things,” he said. “One, is that we’re increasing different logos, many different store concepts. “When it comes to the shows, we are asked to help our product portfolio, such as with ready-to-wear. We needed a clear commitment to one look of the with legwear by many designers of international repu- In the last one-and-a-half years, we’ve put more dress- brand. It used to be up to the franchiser, whatever look tation,” Dahmen said. “And we do that gratefully. If we es and coats into our assortment. Ready-to-wear showed he wanted. You can’t do that.” do it right, it’s one of the many examples of doing some- a growth of 18 percent. Also, when we look at the distri- Last year, the company created one logo and hangtag thing for the market. We can say we have been doing our bution of major growth, it was in our monobrand distri- to unite its global presence. Previously the cities Wien part to help the market grow.” bution. We grew by 16.7 percent this year and our biggest (Vienna), Paris and New York were listed under the Wolford will release a licensed body and legwear growth rate came from our own stores. The U.S. in particu- brand’s name, now each label reads only “Wolford.” collaboration for fall with Valentino, as well as its sixth lar is an area of tremendous growth, 36 percent in terms The fi rm is remodeling and adding stores with a new collection with Giorgio . Previous licensed deals of dollars.” concept described as white, clean and modern and with included Karl Lagerfeld, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Wolford’s future wasn’t always so bright. The 58-year- a focus on rtw. Wolford’s fourth Manhattan store will Gaultier and Zac Posen. old company has weathered fi nancial ups and downs. In bow this September in a 700-square-foot space in the “Wolford saw fantastic times in the Nineties and then 1999, Wolford peaked with sales of 143 million euros, or Shops at the Time Warner Center in Columbus Circle in diffi cult times for fi ve years,” Dahmen said. “Analysts $196 million, before taking a nosedive fi ve years later Manhattan. Other locations that have recently opened in- and journalists wouldn’t have given a dime for our com- under former ceo Fritz Hummer. Dahmen said the rapid clude Dallas’ NorthPark Center. pany. But, we’re getting the right plan together and the decline occurred because of a combination of factors, in- “Our target is to increase our number of boutiques right strategy, and holding on, no matter what.”

“...we’re with you every step of the way”

legwear

[email: [email protected] tel: (914) 659-6177]

29924SOX_soxland 1 7/12/07 4:22:10 PM WWD, MONDAY, JULY 30, 2007 13 WWD.COM Accessories

MALE ORDER: De Beers introduced is traditionally shown on the catwalk, at a dinner, or during a polo match,” said its newest collections this month, Fennell. “And I wanted the show to be entertaining and shocking.” FINDINGS including a capsule line of men’s Fennell’s jewels will be displayed among dioramas — and he’s even worked diamond jewelry designed by British a life sized hunchback of Notre Dame into the display. “I know Quasimodo jeweler Stephen Webster. is an unlikely jewelry wearer, but he was a romantic creature — and he For his fi rst men’s collection, Webster turned to a range of was lost in love,” says Fennell. He also said the exhibition is meant inspirations, from medieval weaponry to Steve McQueen’s 1968 to highlight the “lost” middle ground of jewelry design. “The sector fi lm “Bullitt.” Notable pieces include the Mace and Diamond has become so polarized, with great big rocks on one hand, and Bead pendant and the Pall Bearer ring, which resembles a ‘accessories decorated with diamonds’ on the other. In the middle, miniature coffi n covered in diamonds. The new women’s there is crafted jewelry, pieces that people cherish, and which go collection, dubbed Ice and Fire, is focused on the combination on to become heirlooms.” of rough and cut stones. “It’s sexy and elegant at the same time,” said Guy Leymarie, CERAMIC SPLENDOR: For fi ve decades, the Rado watch brand chief executive offi cer of De Beers. The collections hit De Beers has been known as a pioneer in technology and design. This fall, stores in October. the brand celebrates its anniversary with the updated Ceramica De Beers by Rado, restyled by Jasper Morrison, a visionary in his own fi eld CELEBRATING INDIE ACCESSORIES: Handbag Designer 101 and of art and design. the Fashion Center Business Improvement District held the fi rst annual The watches will hit retail in October at $4,900. They come in fi ve tones Independent Handbag Designer Awards at the Museum of the City of New York and variations, from white to pink gold. Only one of each of the fi ve styles will be last month. available in the U.S., and 10 of each style will be sold worldwide. Jasper Morrison’s The award for Best Student Ceramica Chronograph. Made Handbag was won by Charmaine Ho of Me. The Best Handmade Handbag honor went to JP Dewberry of SoVi- Southern Vitality. The Handbag Designer 101 Audience Selected Handbag went to Julie Lazarus of Elezar, the Most Socially Responsible Handbag award was won by Maria Estrada of Ignes Handbags and the Best Handbag in Overall Style and Design went to Katherine Kwei. The Lifetime Achievement award was given to Carlos Falchi. “I’m an independent handbags designer and the chance of being recognized is slim to none,” said Emily Blumenthal, who spearheaded the effort. “We thought it would be a great way to celebrate independent designers.”

A NEW TOY: Kidrobot and accessories fi rm Schifter + Partners signed a licensing agreement for lifestyle bags and related accessories, including handbags, tote bags, backpacks, travel bags and wallets. The collection will make its debut in the summer 2008 season. Founded in 2002 by former fi lmmaker and media software developer Paul Budnitz, Kidrobot has pioneered the urban vinyl toy movement and combines the work of well-known international graffi ti artists, musicians and graphic artists into collectible designer toys. Last year, Kidrobot introduced its collection of luxury apparel and streetwear, sold exclusively in Kidrobot stores in New York, Los Angeles and San Francisco, and in Barneys New York, Colette in Paris and select specialty stores worldwide. “Kidrobot is an amazingly creative brand that blends so many artistic disciplines into a kaleidoscopic, Technicolor mix of color, form and emotion,” Tim Schifter, chairman and chief executive offi cer of Schifter + Partners, said in a statement. “It’s hip-hop meets Japanese anime meets contemporary art.”

FENNELL’S FLIGHTS OF FANCY: Theo Fennell is taking his jewelry into strange new territory with an exhibition that features fairy glades, graveyards — and even Quasimodo. The posh London jeweler, whose designs often lean toward the naturalistic or macabre, will stage Showoff, an exhibition of pieces in unexpected contexts. It will run from September 24-28 at 6 Burlington Gardens, in the former Museum of Mankind. “I wanted to look at a different way of displaying jewelry, which 14 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 30, 2007 WWD.COM Lingerie Americas Preview A Full House Set for August Intimates Fair NEW YORK — The 11th session of the Lingerie Americas trade show will feature a record 280 intimate apparel, sleepwear, daywear, at-homewear and swimwear brands. Eileen West’s Created in 2002, the fair is scheduled for Aug. 5 to 7 at the Metropolitan Building and Altman cotton eyelet Pavilion in Manhattan. It will include a number of brands exhibiting for the fi rst time, including heavy pajamas. hitters such as ’ , , , Barely There and lines. There also will be major fashion names like Kenzo, Christian Lacroix, John Galliano and Lilly Pulitzer, as well as up- and-coming fashion brands such as Blanche Fleur, Bamboo Nights, Repose, Cyclamen Lingerie, Canat, Belita Intimates, Claudie Song, Mei-Do, VPM, Haut Les Mains and Kika Villareal. The new Natori line of men’s sleepwear and loungewear will be unveiled, and the fair will also spotlight top French labels such as Aubade, Barbara, , Huit, Lejaby and Simone Pérèle that have made inroads at major stores and specialty boutiques in the U.S. Jonathan Colella, U.S. project manager for Lingerie Americas Inc., said, “The New York show is once again completely booked. We have many new resources such as Erin Rose swimwear, Ondademar lingerie and swimwear from Columbia [South America], and will be returning as an exhibitor, as well as Badgley Mischka, which will be taking a larger presence at our show.” The show’s format will encompass the two main fl oors of the adjoining Metropolitan and Altman buildings, as well as the fourth and fi fth fl oors of the Metropolitan Pavilion. Regarding the show’s track record, Victoria Vandagriff, president of Bendon USA, which will show the Elle Macpherson Intimates, Bendon and Fayreform brands, said, “It’s always a great show for us. My only complaint is there’s not enough space for our booth and I have to turn people away.” Richard Gimble, chief executive of Va Bien, a shapewear resource, said he felt “very bullish” about the August show. “I’m pleased to report that our schedule is full with appointments hosting the better-priced major A cotton eyelet retailers, including Von Maur, a major home shop- and ping network and several major Internet accounts matching undies including barenecessities.com and fi gleaves.com,” by Blush. Gimble said. But designer Leigh Bantivoglio noted she was concerned about retail traffi c. She said, “For some reason, the stores aren’t coming this season. I think it’s a little bit of a sign that people are having fi nan- cial problems.” There will also be a new visitor’s area called the Lingerie Française Lounge at the front of the Metropolitan venue, which is sponsored by the French organization Lingerie Française. The lounge will feature 16 mannequins wearing linge- rie representing 16 French brands, said Colella. Pfi ff’s fl oral- “We expect retail turnout to be as strong as pattern a year ago,” he said. “We expect the whole atmo- pajamas. sphere of the show to be as strong as in the past.” Addressing the next edition of Lingerie Americas in New York, which is scheduled for Feb. 24 to 26 at the Metropolitan Building and Altman Pavilion, after the offi cial Feb. 4 to 8 innerwear market week, Colella said the scheduling was “based on buyer de- mand and a survey we did last year.” “Eighty percent of our visitors are specialty stores and 90 percent of those according to our survey want to be in their stores during Valentine’s Day,” she said. “And a number of them go to the salon show in Paris.” The Salon International de la Lingerie is sched- uled Jan. 24 to 27. — Karyn Monget

Elle Macpherson HAIR LOFT; AARTIST Intimates’ trompe l’oeil and .

Touché’s fl oral cotton bra and herringbone- pattern pima cotton shorts by Elizabeth Cotton. BY MICHELLE COURSEY AT ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; FASHION ASSISTANTS: PAOLO BENVENUTO AND JANELL HICKMAN; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN BENVENUTO AND JANELL HICKMAN; STYLED BY PAOLO ASSISTANTS: TIMOTHY PRIANO; FASHION BY ARTISTS MICHELLE COURSEY AT BY PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA; MODELS: SANDRINA BENCOMO GOMEZ AND OTILIA AIONESEI, BOTH AT MAJOR MODEL; MAKEUP BY JUSTIN ST. CLAIR AT CLAIR AT JUSTIN ST. MAJOR MODEL; MAKEUP BY MITRA; MODELS: SANDRINA BENCOMO GOMEZ AND OTILIA AIONESEI, BOTH AT ROBERT PHOTOS BY

16 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 30, 2007 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Frette Begins New Era Under Raffin

By Karyn Monget larger presentation in very exclusive resort locales or smaller towns like rette Inc., the 150-year-old upscale Italian linens, sleepwear, East Hampton [N.Y.], Santa Barbara Floungewear and home accessories firm, is getting a facelift. [Calif.], and Greenwich [Conn.].” The company, which was acquired in 2006 by San Francisco-based The company also hopes to double JH Partners, a private equity group specializing in brand development its business at an existing in-store area and marketing, is revamping under a new chief executive offi cer for its at ABC Carpet & Home in Manhattan. North America operations: Paul Raffi n, a seasoned top brand merchant CENTENO TALAYA PHOTOS BY “We are also planning a grand re- with 10 years of experience as president of Express, who also held se- opening of our Madison Avenue fl ag- nior positions at J. Crew and Colours by Alexander Julian. ship, which will undergo a complete Raffi n, who started in January, wants to expand the Frette name restoration, triple the size and use into a brand that will appeal to traditional Frette consumers who love a town house as a showcase of the luxury, the romance of Frette’s Italian heritage and ornate textiles, Frette vision,” Raffi n said. and a new, “younger and sexier” consumer from the sophisticated The redo, which will begin in urban community he described as “loft dwellers.” The strategy February, is expected to be fi nished includes bolstering brand awareness and exposure through a Frette’s Helena by September 2008. new bridge division, retail expansion and beefi ng up Frette’s Collection. There are around 100 partner-op- e-commerce and wholesale businesses, he said. erated Frette stores in the Mideast, “One of the changes in our business model is to continue Asia and Europe. In addition to Manhattan, the U.S. units are located in Aspen, to emphasize the bedroom as the key occasion,” Raffi n said. Paul Colo., and Chicago, and four units in California: Beverly Hills, San Francisco, “We will continue the linen business as our core business, Raffi n Palo Alto and South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa. There’s also a retail outlet at but will also be extending into other categories such as lin- Woodbury Common in Central Valley, N.Y. gerie, robes, sleepwear, loungewear, bath and spa products Raffi n declined to give sales projections. and, potentially down the road, personal care products. Jeff Hansen, a principal of JH Partners and acting ceo of La Perla Group, “[JH Partners’] goal was to fi nd a ceo for North America a $270 million lingerie and fashion conglomerate acquired by JH Partners this because it represents for them the largest market for month, said: “For us, the vision for the Frette brand is an easy one. When we greater distribution,” Raffi n said. “We currently have eight bought it, it was much bigger than the company itself. We want to leverage it in [freestanding U.S.] stores and almost no wholesale pres- the U.S., in Europe and in the Far East simultaneously. Our vision is to develop the ence. Among our number-one initiatives is to look for retail retail, wholesale, hospitality and online channels.” expansion opportunities, such as the opening of a Frette store at He added that the expansion will take place during a “four- to seven-year plan.” the Americana mall in Manhasset, N.Y. And we are very excited about working with “Frette has this incredible heritage, and in that sense, it makes our job easy,” Bloomingdale’s and a stand-in shop in the San Francisco store.” Hansen said. “Right now, the biggest challenge is prioritizing the opportunities.” The 1,200-square-foot Manhasset unit will open in November and the 750-square- Hansen said on a global scale, Frette generated an 18 percent sales increase in 2005 and foot in-store shop at Bloomingdale’s will be unveiled in February. gains in the “low 20s” in 2006. Sales increases of 20 to 25 percent are anticipated in 2007. The strategy behind the retail expansion of about 50 stores in the next two to three Despite all of the changes, Raffi n pointed out that Frette has no intention of switch- years is threefold. ing its “ultraexclusive” image or the quality of its merchandise. Case in point: a fi rst- “Flagships on important streets are important, such as Madison Avenue and Rodeo time Frette Gift Collection for winter 2007-2008 that will include luxe items for women Drive, as well as strong mall stores in ‘A’ locations, such as in Houston, Boston and such as burgundy silk slipgowns, suede slippers with hand-embroidered Frette crests, Atlanta,” Raffi n said. “And then there’s Frette Studio stores — a smaller footprint but a cashmere shawls with hand-knotted fringes and a sable throw lined with burnished silk shantung silk. The men’s line will feature burgundy velour bath- robes, velvet-logoed slippers and cotton pajamas embroidered with Frette’s double F motif. Another new introduction for gift-giving will be a Frette gift card in signature brown in a coordinating gift box that can be purchased online and at Frette stores for the holiday season. Regarding other areas of business, Raffi n noted that the hospi- tality business, which includes bath robes and linens with luxury hotels such as the Ritz-Carlton, has been “extremely important.” “We are trying to create again a very strong relationship between our retail and hospitality divisions,” he said. As for the e-commerce business in North America launched last November, Raffi n said, “We’re gaining traction. On a percentage basis, it represents 10 percent of our business. We think it’s chiefl y incremental and will drive customers into our stores.”

It STRETCHES

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LALAME,Inc. 132 W.36th St., 11th Fl. New York, NY 10018 • Tel: 212.921.9770 • Fax: 212.302.4359 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 30, 2007 17 WWD.COM CFDA Launches Business Services Network By Marc Karimzadeh ate a support network,” von Furstenberg participate in roundtable discussions, Fashion GPS, Panjiva, FedEx, W Hotels said. “I thought it would be nice to have and access to sponsorship opportuni- Worldwide, Assouline Books, Belle Fleur NEW YORK — The Council of Fashion corporations being able to get involved in ties. The inaugural Corporate Affi liates Florist, First Corporate Car Service, A to Designers of America will have more the CFDA to some degree.” are: CB Richard Ellis Retail Services Z Couriers Inc., Madame Paulette, Music than one reason to celebrate today. To set up the network, the CFDA Group, Designers & Agents, J.C. Penney, Express Car Service and Brentwood The CFDA, which is welcoming 30 brought in Rachel Schechtman as direc- Karen Harvey Consulting Group, Lord & Royal Cleaners. The perks include a 19 new members with a fete at the DVF tor of strategic partnerships in January. Taylor, North American Fur Association, percent discount on FedEx domestic and Studio tonight, is also inaugurating Schechtman also has her own consult- Saks Fifth Avenue and Zwinky. For ex- international shipping. the CFDA Business Services Network, ing fi rm, Cube Ventures, which focuses ample, D&A will offer two CFDA-brand- Lastly, Job Desk is an online resource which offers members benefi ts intended on marketing, merchandising and busi- ed booths at its trade shows, allowing that helps CFDA members fi nd freelance to help them and their businesses, in- ness development. qualifying designers to display their or full-time job opportunities, while cor- cluding connecting them with key indus- The network is divided into three seg- works, and Penney’s will host two open- porate affi liates can contact members by try executives. ments: Corporate Affi liates, Partnership call events a year in New York where posting their open opportunities online. The network is the fi rst major initia- Perks and Job Desk. CFDA members can pitch their ideas for “This is an online resource that ini- tive from CFDA president Diane von The Corporate Affiliates division exclusive collections. tially will be available just to CFDA Furstenberg, who has been vocal about consists of businesses that can join and The Partnership Perks program focus- members, and we will eventually open increasing the benefi ts for members and offer CFDA members special initiatives. es on discount and donation initiatives, it to students as well and graduates,” building a resource network since she In turn, their participation will give the allowing businesses to work with CFDA Schechtman said. To better service the took over last October. companies access to CFDA members and members through special offers, includ- new business network, the CFDA recent- “I thought it was very important to cre- events, as well as the chance to host and ing direct discounts. Participants are: ly redesigned its Web site, cfda.com. Lululemon Shares Rise By Whitney Beckett ululemon Athletica Inc. Lmade its initial public offer- ing Friday, raising $327.6 million with 18.2 million shares of com- mon stock priced at $18 each. That’s twice as much as the $164 million predicted just two weeks ago in its IPO prospectus, in which it said it would offer 16.4 million shares for $10 to $12 per share. Within an hour, the stock was already up 50 percent to more than $26 and posted an intraday high of $28.64 before closing at $28. The Vancouver-based yoga company’s founder and chairman Chip Wilson presided over the opening bell Friday at Nasdaq, where the stock will trade under “LULUV” until the closing, ex- pected for Aug. 2, when stock will trade under “LULU” on the Nasdaq and “LLL” on the Toronto Stock Exchange. “We were able to tell our story correctly, and people be- lieve in what we are doing,” said Wilson, who founded the company in 1998. “It’s a great strive forward for feminine technical clothing, organics, health and sustainability.” Of the 18.2 million shares, the activewear company offered 2,290,909 and selling stockhold- ers offered another 15,909,091. Underwriters have the option to purchase up to an additional 2,730,000 shares from certain of the selling stockholders. The company, which did al- most $150 million in sales last year, opened its fi rst store in 2000 and has 57 doors today. It plans to use proceeds from the IPO to fund new stores and other corporate expenses. August 5-7, 2007 “These stores are real cash Javits Center, Manhattan machines, and to visit them is a very compelling consumer Immediate Fall/Winter 2007 experience unlike anything else out there in the market,” Holiday/Resort 2007-08 said Matt Powell, an ana- lyst for the consulting firm Over 1,700 Edited Accessory Lines SportsONESource Inc. Sun-Mon 9-6, Tue 9-5 According to a revised pre- liminary prospectus the com- Attend: 866-696-6020 Exhibit: 212-710-7408 pany fi led with the Securities and Exchange Commission two www.accessoriestheshow.com weeks ago, comp sales at stores open at least a year were up 25 Also Shop Moda Manhattan and FAME percent and average sales were $1,400 per square foot. AccessoriesTheShow, Moda Manhattan and FAME are owned and produced by Business Journals, Inc. Goldman, Sachs & Co. and Merrill Lynch & Co. were among the underwriters. 18 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 30, 2007

Financial Retail Sees Shift in Private Equity Action By Erica Owen internal hedge fund that speculates on mortgage-backed securities. Several weeks later, bond investors rejected several large debt issuances. HAS RETAILING’S CRAZE COME TO A GRINDING HALT? Ophir also pointed to Thursday, when debt fi nancing for two large LBOs were either post- In the past few months, retailers from Macy’s Inc. to Tiffany have faced ongoing poned or canceled, including Kohlberg, Kravis & Roberts’ $22 billion LBO of Alliance Boots, speculation that they are takeover targets — distorting share prices and distracting the U.K. health and beauty retailer. Media reports last week said the private equity fi rm post- operations. But industry watchers say that private equity fi rms now face slimmer poned selling more than $10 billion in debt until conditions in the credit markets improve. pickings and increased risk in the retail sector as the market fumbles with tighter And Ophir noted that “the Macy’s LBO is very unlikely in this environment,” refer- credit markets and consumer spending concerns. ring to speculation that KKR made a takeout bid for the department store chain at As a result, analysts see a shift of private funds away from buyouts, which often $24 billion. resulted in hefty premiums of up to 35 percent over a stock’s price, toward more stra- Even if private equity is able to fi nance deals, others are pointing to the retail tegic deals, including everything from spin-offs and licensing agreements to buying sector’s scant attractive offerings. brands piecemeal. “We’re starting to run out of publicly traded companies,” said A.G. Edwards analyst Recent activity appears to bear out that scenario. On Thursday, VF Corp. made Robert Buchanan, who cited Macy’s, J.C. Penney, Nordstrom, Dillard’s and Kohl’s as a $775 million purchase of Seven For All Mankind and $110 million deal for Lucy attractive companies. Activewear. On Friday, Brown Shoe Co. Inc. acquired an undisclosed stake in Buchanan said the benefi ts behind taking retailers private makes sense, as pri- Edelman Shoe Inc., which markets the Sam Edelman footwear brand to Macy’s, vate operations would allow established companies with limited opportunity for ad- , Nordstrom and the Victoria’s Secret catalogue, among others. Under ditional physical growth to focus on expanding operations outside of Wall Street’s the agreement’s terms, Edelman’s Sam Edelman and Libby Edelman will maintain a parameters of expectations. majority interest in the company, while Brown Shoe acquired an option to buy the But Buchanan pointed to limited realities beyond the ideals — noting a dwindling remaining interest in the future. list of retail companies that have the fundamentals to spark private equity interest. Meanwhile, Deb Shops announced Friday that Lee Equity Partners LLC acquired all “Private equity looks for two things: established cash fl ows and real estate — they outstanding shares for $27.25 a share or roughly $395 million. Deb Shops said Lee Equity are not interested in turnarounds,” Buchanan explained. “What these guys are inter- will fi nance the acquisition through cash and new committed credit facilities. The same ested in is fat operating margins over years and the cash that goes with it.” day, American Capital Strategies Ltd. and UBS Securities LLC, with Golden Gate Capital Goldsmith Harris analyst Gary Giblen said retailers are increasingly valued by the mar- ACQUISITION TARGETS? (COMPANIES CITED AS POSSIBLE TARGETS, RANKED BY PRIVATE EQUITY’S TOP PLAYERS (RANKED BY CAPITAL RAISED OVER PAST FIVE YEARS) FREE CASH FLOW) COMPANY (ticker) FREE CASH FLOW COMPANY CAPITAL RAISED RETAIL HOLDINGS 1. Macy’s Inc. (M) $2.38 billion 1. Carlyle Group $32.5 billion Oriental Trading Co., Pacifi c China Holdings Ltd., Philosophy Inc., Mattress Giant 2. Nordstrom Inc. (JWN) $877.9 million 2. Kohlberg Kravis & Roberts $31.1 billion A.T.U. Auto-Teile-Unger Holding GmbH, Maxeda, Sealy Corp., Dollar General 3. Gap Inc. (GPS) $678 million 3. Goldman Sachs Principal Investment Area $31 billion 4. J.C. Penney Co. Inc. (JCP) $483 million 4. Blackstone Group $28.36 billion Gold Toe Investment Corp. and Moretz Inc. 5. Tiffany & Co. (TIF) $51.2 million 5. Texas Pacifi c Group $23.5 billion J. Crew, Ducati Motor Holding SpA, Neiman Marcus Group Inc., Bally 6. Dillard’s Inc. (DDS) $39.9 million 6. Permira $21.5 billion Valentino Fashion Group SpA 7. True Religion Apparel Inc. (TRLG) $29.2 million 7. Apax Partners $18.9 billion Tommy Hilfi ger Corp., Spyder Active Sports 8. Hartmarx (HMX) $25.5 million 8. $17.3 billion Burlington Coat Factory 9. Zumiez Inc. (ZUMZ) $18.9 million 9. Providence Equity Partners $16.4 billion 10. Bon-Ton Stores Inc. (BONT) $16.7 million 10. CVC Capital Partners $15.7 billion Debenhams, Revlon Inc. 11. Gottschalks Inc. (GOT) -$25.9 million 11. Cinven $15.1 billion 12. Quiksilver (ZQK) -$48.8 million 12. Apollo Management $13.9 billion Linens-N-Things, Claire’s Stores Inc.

SOURCE: ANALYST INTERVIEWS. CALCULATION OF FREE CASH FLOW BY WWD: CASH FLOW FROM OPERATIONS MINUS SOURCE: PEI MEDIA, COMPANY REPORTS. CAPITAL EXPENDITURES. as the equity sponsor, announced a $710 million cash infusion for Appleseed’s Brands, a ket at potential buyout prices, instead of on a company’s operations and fundamentals. private label apparel brand for men and women ages 55 and older. “That’s why the sector has done so well,” said Giblen, who said Hartmarx, Saks Inc., An informal WWD poll of industry analysts identifi ed a dozen retailers and vendors Nordstrom and Dillard’s could be good target candidates. “If you’re doing great, or if you’re that would be attractive targets for private equity money based on strong, free cash doing poorly, companies are valued on a buyout basis — so it doesn’t matter what you do.” fl ow, including Macy’s Inc., Nordstrom Inc., Gap Inc. and J.C. Penney, which had free And Brean Murray Carat analyst Eric Beder, who called the LBO boom “over- cash fl ows of $2.38 billion, $878 million, $678 million and $483 million, respectively. hyped” for the retail sector, said buyout valuations are diffi cult to ascertain, as com- Two fi rms, Gottchalks and Quiksilver, made the list based on availability and potential panies do not have to disclose the value of hidden assets, such as real estate, via the to generate cash, which is important because private equity fi rms need cash genera- Securities and Exchange Commission. tion to pay off any incurred debt from a deal or just for investment purposes. “Hidden assets can only be discovered when you buy the company and do due dili- Roy Ophir, a partner and senior analyst at Brownstone Asset Management, a New York- gence,” Beder said. “Real estate has material value, but at the same time, for inves- based hedge fund that specializes in high-yield corporate debt and distressed securities, tors, it’s almost impossible to get a handle on.” said debt is used by private equity fi rms to increase their return on investment, much like Beder said most specialty retailers do not have hidden assets as they lease the mortgages are used by individuals to increase the affordability of real estate purchases. space in which stores are operated. “Without the debt necessary to fi nance these large LBOs, private equity cannot af- “I think most retailers that are left are not LBO-ready. They have great cash fl ow, ford to pay as much for those,” Ophir said. but how secure it is is not clear,” Beder said. “There’s a lot of hype about retail LBOs He pointed to several factors that led to a repricing of risk across the credit and — but at the end of the day, they’re not getting done.” equity markets. In mid-June, Bear Stearns announced the “impending failure” of an — With contributions from Molly Fergus

in negotiations with Foot Locker for a deal around Foot Locker Shuttering Footquarters Operations $28 a share, but that offer went no further after being deemed too low as the company was hoping for at least By Vicki M. Young into other positions within the company,” he said. $30 a share. And while KKR is expected to take anoth- These changes come at a time when the retailer is er look at the retailer, it is Apollo that is believed to be FOOT LOCKER INC. IS SHUTTING DOWN ITS THREE- mulling a sale of the company, the second time it is keen on the acquisition in this second go-around. month-old Footquarters operation. considering the option within a year. Sources also said that overtures were made to Apax WWD has learned that the athletic footwear and ap- Apollo Management is said to be circulating around Partners and . A spokeswoman for parel retailer has decided to scrap its valued-priced the retailer again, and fi nancial sources said the pri- Apax declined comment, as did spokesmen for both family footwear concept. According to a regulatory fi l- vate equity fi rm is eyeing a $28 a share bid for the com- The Carlyle Group and Foot Locker. ing in May, there were 31 Footquarters locations in op- pany. A spokesman for Apollo declined comment, cit- There is also talk from across the pond that Michael eration. Those stores are in the process of selling dis- ing company policy. Ashley of U.K.-based Sports Direct International plc counted inventory to clear the decks so the sites can Last year a slew of private equity fi rms were targeting might jump in with a $29 a share bid, due to interest in be converted and reconfi gured into either Foot Locker Foot Locker as a leveraged buyout candidate because it Foot Locker’s European operations. Sources believe outlet or Champs Sports outlet nameplates. is considered a consistent generator of cash fl ow, which that if an offer is made, it might be one from Ashley Sources at Foot Locker said that those conver- is what LBO shops look for to help it pay down the debt himself and not through his company. sions are expected to take place next month. Other incurred in the purchase. The buyout shops interest- Foot Locker is scheduled to announce second-quar- sources familiar with the changes said the shutdown ed last year, aside from Apollo, were Thomas H. Lee ter earnings on Aug. 22, with its conference call to Wall of Footquarters is part of an overall restructuring of Partners and Kohlberg, Kravis & Roberts. Street set for Aug. 23. some of the retailer’s operations. The team at Apollo last year was led by Peter Foot Locker earlier this year tried to buy Genesco A spokesman for Foot Locker said Friday that the Copses, who heads up the private equity fi rm’s West Inc., but the Nashville-based firm rebuffed the change will be a “seamless transition” and may even be Coast retail team. Apollo has a reputation for being Manhattan-based retailer’s $1.2 billion offer. Genesco done by this week. “All the store associates will stay in patient on deals it wants to complete. Apollo’s close instead accepted a $1.5 billion offer from Finish Line. place; they’ll just be working under a different brand. competitor a year ago was KKR. Genesco is holding a special shareholders’ meeting on The people in divisional management have been put Private equity sources last year said that KKR was Sept. 17 to vote on the proposed merger. WWD, MONDAY, JULY 30, 2007 19 WWD.COM Aeffe First-Half Earnings Reach $7.8 Million By Luisa Zargani Tuesday. Massimo Ferretti, chairman of ceived for the sale of its 50 percent stake million euros, or $153 million, while Aeffe, pointed to the listing in a statement, in Narciso Rodriguez LLC, which Aeffe shoes and leather goods grew 26 percent MILAN — Improvements in operating prof- noting the initial public offering was “suc- USA sold to Liz Claiborne Inc. in May. to 35.4 million euros, or $47.1 million. its and a tax rate break helped boost Aeffe’s cessfully completed” and that it represent- Aeffe said it booked a 2 million euro, or Geographically, Italy remained Aeffe’s net earnings in the first half to 5.9 million ed “a new starting point” for the company, $2.6 million, surplus value for the sale. main market, accounting for 39 percent euros, or $7.8 million, a 120.8 percent in- which will allow it to become “a reference EBITDA for ready-to-wear grew 32.4 per- of revenues, or 55.1 million euros, or crease from the same period last year. point in the luxury goods segment.” cent to 19.1 million euros, or $25.4 million, $73.2 million, an 11.8 percent growth. The Growth in both the apparel and acces- However, Aeffe’s shares tumbled on their while the footwear and leather goods di- European market grew 20.8 percent, ac- sories divisions and burgeoning exports debut, falling 4.6 percent in the fi rst day. vision grew 163.3 percent to 1.8 million counting for 21 percent of revenues. Sales to such countries as Russia and the U.S. Commenting on the fi nancial results euros, or $2.4 million. The company attrib- in Russia rose 45.2 percent, accounting helped boost Aeffe’s revenues to 141.6 for the fi rst half, Ferretti said they “con- uted the improvement to a new business for 8 percent of sales, while the U.S. grew million euros, or $188.2 million, a 12.7 fi rm what we promised to investors and model that cuts recurring costs. 9 percent, or 17 percent at constant ex- percent increase compared with the fi rst we expect that the second semester will Breaking down revenues, Aeffe said change rates, accounting for 12 percent of six months of last year. Currency conver- continue to show results in line with our the Alberta Ferretti brand grew 16.2 per- sales. While sales in the rest of the world sions were made at average exchange expectations.” cent, accounting for 21 percent of sales, grew 6.5 percent, Aeffe noted a 10 percent rates for the period. Earnings before interest, taxes and de- and that Moschino’s sales rose 14.2 per- in exports to Japan, or 3 percent at Aeffe SpA, which controls the Alberta preciation allowances reached 22.9 mil- cent, representing 48 percent of revenues. constant exchange rates. Japan accounted Ferretti, Moschino and Pollini brands, and lion euros, or $30.4 million, a 51.6 percent Pollini grew 16.9 percent, accounting for for 7 percent of revenues. Aeffe attributed produces collections for Jean Paul Gaultier, increase compared with the same period 17 percent of sales. In terms of merchan- the drop to Japan’s diffi cult economy. was listed on the Milan Stock Exchange last year. dise performance, Aeffe said sales of The IPO generated 142 million euros, STAR segment for small companies The company revealed the amount re- clothing grew 10 percent, reaching 115.1 or $195.4 million at current exchange.

Weekly Stocks Fast Stats 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE 84.92 50.55 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 14.3 109971 68.15 -3.500 46.16 23.50 Jos. A Bank (JOSB) 13.7 30508 33.82 -3.320 Average spent on 28.75 22.70 Acadia (AKR) 55.1 19038 23.15 -2.330 34.84 24.46 Kellwood (KWD) 27.1 23811 26.50 -3.040 47.82 21.07 Aéropostale (ARO) 18.4 83473 39.26 -1.770 28.32 21.81 Kenneth Cole (KCP) 18.7 7117 21.32 -2.780 luxury goods and 26.07 17.01 Alberto Culver (ACV) 11.6 42134 24.45 -0.540 72.79 59.85 Kimberly Clark (KMB) 17.8 173249 68.18 1.620 3.45 1.88 Alpha Pro Tech (APT) 18.0 1657 2.38 -0.190 53.60 33.74 Kimco Realty (KIM) 26.0 136632 36.60 -2.350 services in the second 34.80 20.61 Amricn Eagle Outfttrs (AEO) 14.0 201173 24.76 -2.570 79.55 54.06 Kohls (KSS) 17.8 253591 61.89 -3.430 45.15 32.25 Ann Taylor (ANN) 17.5 90119 32.66 -2.680 37.81 24.31 K-Swiss (KSWS) 15.2 23539 23.81 -3.700 quarter by luxury 8.61 6.17 Ashworth (ASHW) - 1666 6.18 -1.030 19.29 11.49 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 17.0 148 18.30 0.160 41.85 26.16 Avon (AVP) 30.4 155948 38.70 -0.700 15.28 11.37 Lakeland Inds (LAKE) 18.0 200 13.45 -0.560 consumers: $15,283 15.75 6.25 Bakers (BKRS) - 634 6.48 -0.340 32.60 24.07 Limited Brands (LTD) 15.4 306480 24.10 -2.890 26.86 14.20 Bebe (BEBE) 17.1 46058 14.37 -0.840 24.23 8.66 Liquidity Services (LQDT) 51.5 8311 17.01 -1.040 40.00 28.65 Benetton (BNG) 44.6 146 32.96 -2.220 46.84 33.24 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) 15.8 78165 33.66 -3.220 18.00 10.71 Big Dog (BDOG) 725.0 1476 14.35 -1.440 13.15 3.51 LJ Intl (JADE) 21.1 57182 7.00 -1.090 Percent increase in 9.60 7.00 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) 6.2 96 7.23 -0.080 39.39 26.81 Luxottica (LUX) 24.8 7328 35.52 -2.520 luxury spending from 39.15 25.18 BJs (BJ) 25.4 56972 34.16 -3.150 103.59 68.80 Macerich (MAC) 120.5 47436 73.14 -7.190 5.10 1.21 Blue (BLUE) - 6559 1.25 -0.030 46.70 33.52 Macy’s Inc. (M) 18.4 381471 36.90 -5.020 the fi rst quarter to the 1.60 0.80 Bluefly (BFLY) - 4395 0.90 -0.040 24.49 12.95 (MFB) 13.4 12716 18.30 -1.790 57.66 24.02 Bon-Ton (BONT) 17.0 23495 28.28 -3.550 56.64 29.82 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 16.9 39931 50.25 -3.530 second quarter: 9 37.68 20.73 Brown Shoe (BWS) 14.1 39367 21.42 -3.070 26.31 18.27 Marcus (MCS) 20.6 7664 20.21 -2.010 41.45 22.25 Buckle (BKE) 17.5 9991 34.48 -3.440 57.65 23.97 Mothers Work (MWRK) 33.5 5784 23.89 -0.830 26.32 12.50 Cache (CACH) 38.2 23212 15.31 0.540 35.40 20.55 Movado (MOV) 15.5 8324 28.40 -3.580 28.57 19.06 Capitalsource (CSE) 11.9 211040 19.51 -3.390 3.50 0.72 Movie Star (MSI) - 1624 2.29 -0.310 Average age of 30.18 20.53 Carter (CRI) - 53744 21.68 -3.250 25.95 20.32 Nationl Retail Prop. (NNN) 17.0 40946 20.77 -1.890 15.10 9.98 Casual Male (CMRG) 8.7 31410 10.25 -1.080 16.20 9.81 New York & Co. (NWY) 14.6 25038 10.05 -1.350 surveyed luxury 25.70 20.30 Cato (CTR) 13.9 12229 21.19 -2.670 60.35 37.76 Nike (NKE) 19.2 269107 55.44 -3.080 50.36 31.77 CBL (CBL) 28.0 32681 31.48 -2.940 9.38 2.91 Nitches (NICH) 307.0 1367 3.00 -0.780 consumer: 44.3 years 12.74 8.94 CCA (CAW) 15.4 5416 10.09 -0.240 59.70 32.97 Nordstrom (JWN) 16.0 223794 43.91 -3.540 13.15 3.90 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) 16.4 10054 4.10 -1.010 28.60 15.10 Oakley (OO) 37.4 43021 28.10 -0.200 33.93 18.81 Charlotte Russe (CHIC) 11.6 75174 18.30 -5.600 6.77 3.25 Orange 21 (ORNG) - 302 6.45 -0.080 15.57 9.69 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) 12.2 112895 10.11 -0.740 25.00 5.00 Orchids Paper (TIS) 87.9 96 6.30 0.270 Average annual 67.55 31.77 Chattem (CHTT) 22.1 25633 57.18 -4.310 53.98 34.50 Oxford (OXM) 14.3 8554 41.51 -0.970 income of surveyed 48.76 33.65 Cherokee (CHKE) 9.1 4879 34.66 -2.420 23.11 13.12 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) 57.4 81287 18.12 -2.810 27.94 17.26 Chico’s (CHS) 21.4 90550 19.26 -1.840 9.33 4.00 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 15969 4.15 -0.260 luxury consumer: 71.81 37.43 Children’s Place (PLCE) 14.5 50886 36.65 -4.980 37.20 22.07 Payless Shoes (PSS) 14.0 93306 27.20 -2.420 31.25 15.29 Christopher & Banks (CBK) 19.0 36347 15.50 -1.010 35.22 15.59 Perry Ellis (PERY) 15.2 7843 27.37 -2.870 $155,500 43.83 34.57 Cintas (CTAS) 17.9 74428 36.90 -1.620 62.19 33.79 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 19.6 41367 50.42 -4.390 49.72 26.78 Citi Trends (CTRN) 23.7 14579 33.70 -3.860 5.65 1.38 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 731 3.65 0.010 54.00 27.10 Coach (COH) 28.0 201342 45.56 -3.310 18.71 9.85 Playtex (PYX) 33.1 63910 17.86 -0.390 31.25 16.77 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) 32.6 58329 19.20 -2.320 102.58 55.66 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 23.8 51162 89.05 -9.800 70.16 58.01 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 21.8 221758 68.45 0.770 26.93 11.21 PriceSmart (PSMT) 42.7 7214 23.00 -2.060 SOURCE: UNITY MARKETING 70.93 45.29 Colmbia Sportswr (COLM) 17.7 20245 63.91 -4.300 1.67 0.09 Quaker Fabric (QFAB) - 35968 0.13 0.040 32.19 17.61 Conns (CONN) 15.6 9408 26.80 -2.690 16.08 10.90 Quiksilver (ZQK) 22.6 67433 12.50 -0.910 63.07 46.00 Costco (COST) 25.2 226898 58.57 -2.680 13.14 6.00 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 20.5 2138 10.10 -1.200 11.64 7.27 Cost U Less (CULS) 16.0 292 9.95 -1.060 39.55 28.88 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 10.3 9782 32.25 -5.100 51.81 12.37 Crocs (CROX) 34.2 605624 55.42 10.230 93.49 62.24 Regency Centers (REG) 29.6 28836 63.72 -6.830 12.30 4.37 Culp (CFI) - 2513 11.30 0.220 23.30 13.51 Retail Ventures (RVI) - 35911 12.80 -2.290 WWD Index 5.00 1.33 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 922 1.51 -0.110 1.75 0.85 Revlon (REV) - 73141 1.09 -0.080 29.97 22.68 Deb Shops (DEBS) 18.0 1778 26.51 -2.520 19.23 9.73 Rocky Brands (RCKY) 17.5 4581 11.08 -5.390 107.57 36.32 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 33.5 42790 107.78 2.710 35.17 22.12 Ross Stores (ROST) 16.2 133927 29.25 -1.740 12.00 6.61 Delia’s (DLIA) 47.1 9043 6.82 -0.460 23.25 14.10 Saks (SKS) - 144553 18.26 -3.540 Composite 20.50 14.91 Delta Apparel (DLA) 13.7 422 18.35 0.300 195.18 134.56 Sears (SHLD) 14.5 138019 136.20 -17.140 970.57 10.58 6.20 Delta Galil (DELT) - 17 6.45 -0.010 35.26 19.25 Shoe Carnival (SCVL) 13.6 5793 22.81 -3.190 72.33 47.80 Develprs Divrsified (DDR) 23.6 81856 47.76 -4.870 7.93 2.08 Shoe Pavilion (SHOE) 60.0 2573 3.06 -0.050 40.56 28.40 Dillard’s (DDS) 11.1 164824 29.83 -6.840 123.96 81.19 Simon Properties (SPG) 40.4 138245 84.90 -6.760 24.93 16.91 Dress Barn (DBRN) 12.9 95196 18.36 -2.530 38.03 19.70 Skechers (SKX) 12.1 111301 21.23 -8.370 44.71 26.71 DSW (DSW) 20.3 24848 31.96 -4.800 5.90 3.31 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 243 4.13 -0.060 42.06 32.31 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) 47.9 285 40.09 -0.240 18.00 10.96 Stein Mart (SMRT) 12.6 15335 10.70 -0.670 14.27 6.50 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 18611 12.23 -1.340 5.00 2.72 Stephan (TSC) - 138 3.80 -0.050 24.73 13.63 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) 23.6 13193 21.95 -1.870 44.70 27.33 Steve Madden (SHOO) 14.0 12196 29.99 -2.100 -60.66 52.31 34.88 Estée Lauder (EL) 23.4 73075 45.83 -1.290 20.50 12.01 Stride Rite (SRR) 21.5 37423 20.19 -0.180 34.98 12.65 Everlast Worldwide (EVST) 45.4 2062 31.87 -0.960 13.54 11.35 Superior Uniform (SGC) 45.7 192 12.40 -0.440 35.42 21.69 Family Dollar (FDO) 19.4 121786 30.24 -4.280 22.08 15.47 Syms (SYM) 48.0 5200 14.47 -3.220 14.97 6.54 Finish Line (FINL) 13.2 70625 6.81 -1.070 2.15 0.65 Tag-It (TAG) - 0 0.95 0.000 26.16 24.20 Forest City (FCY) 30.8 119 24.90 -0.260 31.00 19.50 Talbots (TLB) 124.1 40683 23.18 -0.680 31.97 16.96 Fossil (FOSL) 28.7 23575 26.73 -1.230 13.70 9.27 Tandy Brands (TBAC) 21.4 197 12.14 -0.370 15.74 11.30 Freds (FRED) 18.1 22858 12.24 -0.890 8.32 6.00 Tandy Leather Fctry (TLF) 11.3 207 7.05 -0.140 Weekly % Changes 40.06 31.12 G&K (GKSR) 19.3 5285 37.45 -1.070 43.56 30.30 Tanger Factry Outlet (SKT) 52.3 19485 33.28 -3.610 (ending July 27) 18.50 9.80 Gaiam (GAIA) 60.2 7653 14.81 -1.650 70.75 45.11 Target (TGT) 18.6 541482 62.10 -5.330 21.39 16.05 Gap (GPS) 19.2 492492 17.79 -0.840 2.20 0.96 Tarrant Apparel (TAGS) - 2127 1.12 -0.040 Gainers Close Change 67.43 43.49 General Growth (GGP) 44.4 143644 46.70 -4.550 63.87 39.15 Taubman (TCO) 66.1 36319 47.07 -3.930 54.15 25.50 Genesco (GCO) 18.8 39317 50.31 -2.330 13.00 7.20 Tefron (TFR) 9.1 1583 7.35 -0.270 Quaker Fabric 0.13 42.00 26.74 9.03 G-III Apparel (GIII) 12.9 8687 15.61 -1.520 56.79 29.63 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 25.9 136531 47.96 -6.200 37.68 20.86 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 35.0 14004 33.68 -1.130 33.45 23.91 Timberland (TBL) 17.8 36472 23.82 -1.170 Crocs 55.42 22.64 29.69 21.00 Glimcher (GRT) - 19666 21.45 -2.650 30.24 24.00 TJ Maxx (TJX) 16.1 246545 27.31 -2.150 15.37 7.85 Gottschalks (GOT) 40.1 4795 8.06 -0.590 23.88 14.65 True Religion (TRLG) 19.9 20358 19.10 -2.750 Hanesbrands 30.97 18.66 53.33 19.78 Guess (GES) 28.9 58508 46.37 -3.430 47.00 31.05 Tween Brands (TWB) 19.4 29192 38.76 -3.910 Orchids Paper 6.30 4.48 49.11 28.69 Gymboree (GYMB) 15.5 32362 36.03 -3.390 57.76 32.20 Under Armour (UA) 59.4 45835 51.59 -3.530 20.25 11.76 Hampshire (HAMP) 15.4 277 18.75 -1.240 3.07 1.69 Unifi (UFI) - 2837 2.27 -0.140 Caché 15.31 3.66 31.38 17.75 Hanesbrands (HBI) - 82347 30.97 4.870 48.00 29.99 Unifirst (UNF) 16.5 6779 38.37 -5.090 8.58 5.50 Hartmarx (HMX) 114.0 14292 7.78 -0.500 20.00 10.33 United Retail (URGI) 14.0 5230 10.92 -0.200 29.26 16.18 Helen of Troy (HELE) 13.5 15787 23.14 -3.560 27.75 13.65 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 25.4 196874 19.41 -2.210 Decliners Close Change 14.77 9.43 Hot Topic (HOTT) 30.6 46380 9.61 -1.190 96.20 66.23 VF Corp. (VFC) 17.0 42753 86.24 -4.310 4.45 0.95 House of Taylor (HOTJ) - 1162 1.03 -0.010 51.00 18.24 Volcom (VLCM) 36.3 38779 38.04 -8.830 Rocky Brands 11.08 -32.73 40.99 23.62 IAC Interactive (IACI) 47.2 169074 30.35 -2.840 52.15 43.47 Wal-Mart (WMT) 15.8 999918 45.94 -2.120 Skechers 21.23 -28.28 23.83 12.64 Iconix (ICON) 25.2 59367 20.55 -2.600 41.17 15.75 Warnaco (WRNC) 17.8 45851 35.60 -3.550 2.45 0.37 Innovo (INNO) - 16346 1.99 -0.280 52.30 36.58 Weingarten (WRI) 26.9 67162 36.34 -4.050 Charlotte Russe 18.30 -23.43 29.18 15.75 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 23.7 15174 22.18 -3.720 28.09 19.99 Weyco (WEYS) 13.4 1001 25.79 0.230 57.17 24.57 J. Crew (JCG) 26.9 40558 49.13 -2.030 3.70 1.01 Wilsons (WLSN) - 21908 2.07 -0.100 Nitches 3.00 -20.63 87.18 61.20 J.C. Penney (JCP) 13.7 188844 68.70 -6.250 31.08 24.40 Wolverine (WWW) 17.2 22902 27.17 -0.830 Charles & Colvard 4.10 -19.75 14.25 7.21 Jaclyn (JLN) 22.3 157 10.75 -0.600 31.72 21.52 Zale (ZLC) 34.2 46986 21.06 -2.370 35.54 25.25 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 60127 25.18 -1.440 42.65 20.00 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 47.5 25061 35.77 -3.270 20 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 30, 2007 WWD.COM McCartney Lingerie Line Set for Spring House OKs Foreign By Samantha Conti at current exchange, for and briefs to 220 pounds, or $447, for . LONDON — Stella McCartney is about to indulge Bizzarri added that one of the reasons Bendon Cargo Scanning Bill one of her great passions. The designer will was appealing as a partner was that it has a launch her first lingerie col- “human touch,” and is about By Kristi Ellis rorists trying to create chaos at lection for spring 2008, under the same size as the Stella U.S. ports. a license with intimate ap- Stella McCartney McCartney business. In fi s- WASHINGTON — Congress sent But the leadership was forced parel company Bendon, WWD cal 2005, Stella McCartney’s President Bush a sweeping na- to make compromises on the has learned. U.K. sales and licensing in- tional security conference re- measure to get the bill passed. “This is a natural pro- come amounted to 7.3 mil- port Friday that would require The 100 percent scanning gression for me. Lingerie is lion pounds, or $14.8 million. 100 percent scanning of all cargo measure drew strong opposi- an obsession of mine. I have (The company, which is part containers at foreign ports with- tion from many Republicans in been inspired by it for many, of Gucci Group, does not re- in five years. the House and Senate, as well many years. Ever since my port full annual sales.) Stella The House passed the con- as large importers and ship- degree collection at Saint McCartney plans to announce ference report by a vote of pers that argued that the tech- Martins, I have always used it 2006 U.K. sales and licensing 371-40 Friday after the Senate nology was not available, in- in my work,” said McCartney income in October, before the approved the legislation late stalling scanning equipment in on Friday. designer’s spring ready-to- Thursday night by a vote of 85-8. hundreds of foreign ports was An offi cial announcement wear show in Paris. President Bush must still unworkable and such a man- will be made today. The new line will be sign the bill. Although the White date could cripple global com- The collection will fea- sold at Stella McCartney House has voiced objections to merce at the ports. They said ture pieces made from silk, stores and at Bendon units the cargo scanning mandate and the most effective approach to organic cotton and georgette in Australia and New other provisions, the adminis- blocking radioactive materials silk chiffons, and will come in Zealand. It also will be sold tration has stopped short of issu- or weapons from reaching U.S. a signature Stella McCartney at specialty stores including ing a veto threat against the na- ports was a multilayered ap- palette of soft shades of dusty Selfridges, Neiman Marcus, tional security bill, which would proach taken by the Homeland pink, cream, blue and pearl Nordstrom, Holt Renfrew implement some of the fi ndings Security Department involving gray. McCartney described it and La Rinascente. of the 9/11 Commission, the bi- targeting high-risk cargo con- as “naturally sexy, confi dent George Brooks, Bendon’s partisan panel that made 41 rec- tainers, checking manifests of and modern.” executive chairman, said the ommendations to strengthen na- container ships at foreign ports Marco Bizzarri, chief exec- license mirrors his compa- tional security and help prevent and utilizing a public-private utive of Stella McCartney, de- ny’s fashion focus and global another terrorist attack. program to ensure the safety of scribed the deal with Bendon expansion. “This is another Democrats were able to check supply chains. as “long-term,” with the fi rst signifi cant deal in consolidat- off another item on their short leg- Democrats ultimately pushed collection landing in stores in ing Bendon’s international islative accomplishment list with back the deadline contained in January. He said the collection would offer a true position,” he said. the passage of the national secu- the House bill that required point of difference. Bendon’s other major fashion license is with rity report. Speaker of the House large foreign ports to phase in “Right now, there are brands like La Perla — Elle Macpherson. The company has been produc- Nancy Pelosi (D., Calif.) had made the technology to within five and then a big gap below them. We are aiming to ing the model’s lingerie line, Elle Macpherson the passage of the security and years instead of three. Another deliver a high-end product with prices that are a Intimates, for 17 years, and also manufactures the minimum wage bills a top prior- concession leaders made in the little lower than La Perla,” he said. Macpherson Men line, Bendon Lingerie, Bendon ity as part of her fi rst “100 hours” conference report was a provi- Prices will range from about 35 pounds, or $71 Sport, Hey Sister, Fayreform, and Bendon Man. agenda. The House and Senate sion that gives the Homeland passed bills earlier this year, but Security secretary authority to the legislation was shelved for extend the five-year deadline four months because of differ- in two-year increments if ports ences between the two bills, and cannot comply in time and meet a conference committee was not certain conditions. convened until this month. “It mandates screening of all “Implementing the recom- containers on U.S.-bound ships mendations will fundamentally in foreign ports within five change the way the President years, but it gives the Homeland and Congress deal with the mat- Security secretary fl exibility in ters relating to terrorism, and it delaying the implementation in will make us more unifi ed and certain cases,” said Rep. Bennie more effective,” Pelosi told the Thompson (D., Miss.), chair- House. “That is because this bill man of the House Homeland closes loopholes and weakens Security Committee. terrorists seeking to exploit and Apparel importers, who leave Americans vulnerable.” brought $89.2 billion worth of The bill would require for- clothing and textiles into the eign port authorities to scan country last year, were still un- 100 percent of U.S.-bound cargo satisfi ed with the compromises containers for radiation and nu- in the conference report. SM clear materials, as well as x-ray “I don’t consider it much of a FACTORING BY DESIGN them for suspicious materials. compromise at all,” said Stephen Democrats and proponents of Lamar, executive vice president tougher security measures ar- at the & gued that the estimated 5 per- Footwear Association. “It still cent scanning rate of the almost creates a hard date” for com- 12 million cargo containers pliance at hundreds of foreign entering the country is danger- ports. Lamar said the practical ously low and could provide a implication for the industry is a window of opportunity for ter- “big dose of uncertainty.”

Ask us for a Factoring By Design Plan. Active Companies Pull Vick Merchandise Call Harold Dundish, SVP he day after Atlanta Falcons quarterback Michael Vick pleaded at (212) 273-2988 Tnot guilty to federal dogfighting charges, Nike and Reebok de- cided to pull merchandise associated with Vick off shelves. Nike said Friday it will no longer sell the four styles of footwear

A DIVISION OF IDB BANK and three styles of graphic T-shirts sold under Vick’s name — a more fi rm move than the company’s decision over a week ago to postpone the release of his fi fth-generation sneaker Zoom Vick V, while it kept Empire State Building his other products in stores. Nike also suspended Vick’s contract without pay Friday. 350 Fifth Avenue “As we’ve said before, Nike is concerned by the serious and high- New York, NY 10118 ly disturbing allegations made against Michael Vick and we consid- er any cruelty to animals inhumane and abhorrent,” Nike said in a Western Regional Office: statement Friday. “However, we do believe that Michael Vick should 888 South Figueroa St., Suite 550 be afforded the same due process as any citizen in the United Los Angeles, CA 90017 States; therefore, we have not terminated our relationship.” (310) 860-6330 Meanwhile, Reebok, the NFL’s offi cial uniform supplier, is halt- ing sales of Vick’s No. 7 Falcons replica jersey at retail stores and IDB Bank is a registered service mark of Israel Discount Bank www.idbbank.com through its Web site. Reebok, which unlike Nike does not have a of New York. Total assets of nearly $9 billion. MEMBER FDIC sponsorship deal with Vick, also said it will take back any unsold Vick jerseys from retail outlets. — Whitney Beckett ADVERTISEMENT

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Fashion jewelry – with innovative styling, fresh The fashion jewelry consumer today is “everyone,” con- materials and affordable price points – couldn’t fi rmed Julie Magner, general merchandise manager, jewelry, be looking better, sources confi rmed. Hudson’s Bay Company, Toronto. “Accessories are the new ward- Consumer interest is thriving, new products debut continu- robe; ready-to-wear is the new accessory.” ally and the market is in more demand than ever. Women used to buy apparel fi rst, then fashion jewelry and *EWELRY3ALES3HINING accessories to wear with it; now they purchase fashion ac- Retailers have recognized the importance of fashion jewelry and cessories, then fi nd the outfi t to compliment them, asserted increasingly moved it up front, Cohen of NPD said. “That alone has Marshal Cohen, chief Industry analyst, the NPD Group, which helped drive this trend.” recently began tracking accessory It’s not about being in the corner any- purchases. more, he said. Retailers have to treat ac- “It’s been a complete twist of fate. cessories as they treat anything bought Retailers, especially department ,IV4YLER on impulse. While specialty stores drive stores, are moving accessories and FOR0ILGRIM the trend to fashion jewelry, “this is one fashion jewelry front and center.” of the areas where department stores Women today can buy one black can really shine.” dress, then 10 fashion jewelry piec- The NPD Group reported a survey of es to accessorize it, and end up with women’s fashion jewelry purchases for the 10 different outfi ts, Cohen noted. fi ve months ending in May showed ear- “There’s nothing hotter than the rings were the top performing item, with little black dress right now, but that a rank of 53 percent. Chains/necklaces little black dress has become an ac- were second at 19 percent; bracelets/an- cessory for their accessories.” klets 13 percent; other jewelry like rings, “Fashion jewelry is vital today,” jewelry sets, body jewelry, pins/brooches, confi rmed Michael Gould, chairman cuff links had 16 percent. and ceo, Bloomingdale’s. “We’re very Specialty stores were the top retail dis- pleased with our business. I think tribution, followed by mass merchants, this is one of the most important ar- national chains, department stores, cata- eas in the whole store.” logs/direct mail, home shopping and fac- The category should remain ac- tory outlets/off price stores. tive, offers growth opportunities For purchase infl uences, women sur- “and is absolutely imperative for veyed ranked styling features fi rst; followed us,” Gould declared. “There’s a lot by price, quality, matched many outfi ts, of momentum. I think it goes hand- matched specifi c outfi t, someone asked in-hand with what’s been happen- for it; brand, matches another accessory; ing in the leather handbag and shoe advertisements and celebrity endorsement. businesses. It’s very indicative that As many as 70 percent of women accessories have been terrifi c.” bought jewelry items for themselves, while The trend is active worldwide. 24 percent said they gave it as a gift. Gould noted he recently visited In a time when a lot of clothing looks London and Paris, “and it’s clear there’s major emphasis alike, fashion jewelry lets women differentiate their appearance, ob- (in fashion jewelry and accessories) there as well, even in served Mitch Kates, associate director of strategic services at Kurt presentation. Salmon Associates. “I haven’t seen any major market where affordable “In a store like Bloomingdale’s, this is one of the best fashion wasn’t successful. There’s defi nitely a market there. Women moments in the jewelry business right now.” like it and it helps them make a fashion statement.” ADVERTISEMENT

#RISLU &ASHION*EWELRY-AKERS C@1B;<5 WITH)NNOVATIONAND/RIGINALITY

Consumers today demand fashion demand “the look of real,” asserted a recently- opened jewelry that “stands out from the Bryan Crisfi eld, president and design studio in Lon- crowd. Not just in design, qual- ceo, Crislu Corp. don and new offi ces in ity craftsmanship and value for Cubic zirconium is an “af- Canada and Mexico. the money, but by offering fordable luxury” that will Although Crimzon Rose is less an exciting and unique op- continue to sell well and is than 10 years old, it is one of the fastest portunity that doesn’t exist growing so quickly, depart- growing suppliers of private label fashion anywhere else,” asserted ment stores increasingly jewelry and hair accessories to America’s William Genco, ceo, Pil- feature it in front coun- mass market and specialty stores, Porcaro grim North America. ters, Crisfi eld added. “It said. “Our customers are a who’s who in Shoppers across the gives a very high-end, retailing: Wal-Mart, Target, K-Mart, Kohl’s, globe use fashion jewelry diamond look, and cre- Sears and great specialty stores.” to build fresh looks each ates fashion trends on a Specializing in sterling silver with either season, always at affordable prices, he affi rmed. “Women can use lots of different #RIMZON2OSE colors and styles to tailor their wardrobe to the latest looks, and express their indi- vidual personality.” #UBICZIRCONIUM±GIVESAVERYHIGH END DIAMOND Fashion jewelry enhances women’s ward- robes, offering an “easy and inexpensive way LOOK ANDCREATESFASHIONTRENDSONAHIGHERLEVEL to dress up,” stressed Phil Frankenberg, ex- !NDYOUCANHAVEABITMOREFUNWITHITTOO² ecutive vice president, CrimzonRose. “They can be current by taking a very simple sil- - BRYAN CRISFIELD houette that’s timeless, but re-addressing it PRESIDENT AND CEO, CRISLU CORP. with new jewelry and hair accessories that make it fresh for the season.”

higher level. And you can have a bit more platinum or 18 carat gold finishes, Crislu fun with it too.” offers fine jewelry trends but always at af- Increased consumer affl uence in the fordable prices, Crisfield said. “The con- mass market will raise demand for fash- sumer understands it, and seeks a supe- ion jewelry and be an important infl uence rior quality product. That’s what makes it in further growth, Genco of Pilgrim North special: fine jewelry looks and trends you America stated. can afford.” Companies must differentiate products, Crislu lets women be trend driven, but “in- giving them a “wow” factor that offers wom- stead of dropping thousands of dollars, they en “a twist, and top quality with great value,” can spend $125 and get the same look.” Genco added. “Women know just one #ONTINUEDON&ASHION*EWELRY PAGE single piece of jewelry can revamp their image, and they can have fun layering neck- laces and bracelets to create their own look,” he stressed. 7OMEN´S&ASHION Pilgrim, the largest and fast- est-growing fashion jewelry *EWELRY0URCHASING brand in Europe, established BY5NIT3HARE in Denmark in 1983, sells accessories, eyewear and watches and is setting new January May, 2007 0ILGRIM sights on U.S retailers and consumers, Genco added. RANK PRODUCT UNIT SHARE CrimzonRose, with over 1 Earrings 53% Success today means working closely with 200 employees at its Rhode 2 Chains/Necklaces 19% retailers “from product to shelf,” affi rmed Fe- Island headquarters, is a true 3 Bracelets/Anklets 13% lix Porcaro, ceo, CrimzonRose. global operation: its three of- Other Jewelry: Rings, “It’s all about getting out there, seeing and fi ces in China have over 100 Body Jewelry, Jewelry Sets, understanding trends throughout the world, employees handling product Pins/Brooches, Cuffl inks/ developing the right product and getting it to development, sourcing, qual- Tie Tacks customers quickly.” ity control and distribution. Source: The NPD Group Consumer Tracking Service Consumers seek brands and products There are affi liates in Hong that redefi ne bridge jewelry, and increasingly Kong, India, the Philippines,

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0ILGRIM &UN!FFORDABLE*EWELRYTHAT 3TANDS!BOVETHE#ROWD

#ONTINUEDFROM&ASHION*EWELRY PAGE

“We’ve created a product that is a designer Bloomingdale’s, and also major cruise lines piece of Jewelry, but price affordable,” Cris- New looks at CrimzonRose include head- fi eld stressed. “It’s a very exciting time, and bands and head wraps, Porcaro and Fran- we have big increases planned for 2007”. kenberg stated. Other fast-moving fashion After years of double-digit growth, Crislu jewelry styles for back to school and fall will is trending well, Crisfi eld stressed. “We’re include necklaces and rings. Brands must lure new customers each sea- always looking for new opportunities. We’ve son and be market leaders, he said. “We are done a good job the last two years of making #RISLU constantly in the forefront of fashion with de- Crislu a stand alone brand and product. The signs and the right price.” styling and quality is checking out well.” Pilgrim offers creative, sometimes edgy With a 12,000 square foot factory in El Se- design enhancing customers’ individual gundo, Calif. and labor intensive production personalities, appealing to women who are off shore, Crislu may extend its name and “young, trendy and classic, with a difference. business into other areas, Crisfl eld noted. They want to stand out from the crowd, and dare the unexpected,” Genco confi rmed. Because women demand affordable pric- es, Pilgrim necklaces wholesale from $13 to ±7OMENKNOWJUSTONESINGLE $104; bracelets sell for $6 to $52; earrings PIECEOFJEWELRYCANREVAMP $3 to $32; watches $45 to $97; and sun- “We develop product specifi c for each glasses $32 to $78, Genco noted. THEIRIMAGE ANDTHEYCAN customer,” Porcaro stressed. ”There are With international distribution, Pilgrim HAVEFUNLAYERINGNECKLACES no cookie-cutter formulas. We don’t cre- sells over 5,000 retailers. While its primary ate a big line and try to sell it to every- channel is independent fashion retailers, it ANDBRACELETSTOCREATETHEIR body. We have separate teams for each sells stores like Harrods, Galleries Lafayette, OWNLOOK² account; teams that include planning, Printemps and other acclaimed merchants, design, sales and support.” it reported. - WILLIAM GENCO CrimzonRose offers prices as low as $4, “We are selling not only products, but a CEO, PILGRIM NORTH AMERICA with average retail prices of $15 or below. concept,” Genco said. In the U.S., Pilgrim will “If a customer walked into Target or add shop-in-shops in department stores, but K-Mart, and saw our necklaces for $15, its main focus will be independent fashion re- then walked into a department store, tailers, offering “very creative designs which 4REND7ATCH-IX-ATCH they’d see similar product for $30-$40 and stand out from the crowd of other fashion The wrist will be particularly important to be hard pressed to tell the difference. To us, jewelry brands.” what will be a major season, Crislu ceo Bryan it’s all about quality and value,” Frankenberg Crisfi eld reported. “Celebrities are piling on said. #ONTINUEDON&ASHION*EWELRY PAGE bracelets with no necklaces or pendants and CrimzonRose recently added the licens- small earrings,” and two-tone bangles and ing business with Daisy Fuentes Jewelry and tennis bracelets will be launched by Crislu to XOXO hair accessories programs. support the trend. “We’ve been able to be successful by being Personalization, or “emotional” jewelry, is the ‘un-brand’ company for major retailers. growing and Crislu will offer pendants with While that will always be our core business, messages around the bezel of jewelry like we’re looking to add some licensed brands miniature medallions. “It’s about jewelry, but so we can continue to grow in different direc- with a message too,” Crisfi eld said. tions,” Porcaro noted. For holiday, sparkle and feminine styling The fi rm plans to build its Jojak division will be important, he added. producing product sold on TV shopping chan- Gold is trending back up again, Crisfi eld nels under celebrity and designer names. stressed. “We’ve always done an 18 carrot Consumers will show increased attention to gold fi nish, but platinum outsold gold by a jewelry pieces that express their individuality, large margin. New collections for the August Pilgrim North America ceo William Genco pro- market incorporate gold looks too, and we’ve jected. “It could be the mix of pieces, the lay- found huge response.” ering of pieces or pieces they don’t see other For fall/holiday 2005, Crislu launched consumers wearing.” a new branding strategy to what had been Fashion jewelry will continue to maintain a price-point business, Crisfi eld recalled. popularity and ignite attention, “as long as it “We’re one of the only companies taking offers innovative designs,” he added. sterling and putting pure platinum on it, and Each year Pilgrim chooses a celebrity to warranty the fi nish forever, which we’ve done highlight on its marketing materials, and this with everything on the product since fall/holi- year will feature actress Liv Tyler. #RIMZON2OSE day 2004.” Pilgrim introduces new collections four With retail prices of $40 to $500, Crislu times a year, with over 25 new collections and sells quality stores, like Nordstrom and items in different colors, Genco stressed.

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What makes Crimzon Rose the fastest-growing IN STYLE. supplier of fashion jewelry to America’s leading mass market and specialty stores?

Full-time fashion and trend consultants in Europe, Asia and the United States plus an award-winning in-house design team.

Unmatched sourcing, product development and QC capabilities – over 100 Crimzon Rose employees in three offices in China plus affiliates in Hong Kong, India and the Philippines.

A clear understanding that it is not price alone, but real value that drives sales.

CRIMZON ROSE FASHION JEWELRY CRIMZON ROSE HAIR ACCESSORIES ELEMENTS FASHION JEWELRY ELEMENTS HAIR ACCESSORIES JOJAK JEWELRY XOXO HAIR ACCESSORIES 401.461.5900 CRIMZONROSE.COM ADVERTISEMENT

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#ONTINUEDFROM&ASHION*EWELRY PAGE 4IME3HARE Time is on the side of fashion jewelry, get it to the shelf, while making sure the price is right.” sources confi rmed. Because business and trends change constantly, suppliers must With consumers continually welcome stay ahead of the curve and customers’ needs, stressed Felix new styles, Crislu has fi ve markets a Porcaro, president of CrimzonRose. “We do this by having consultants year, launching six - eight and fashion trend spotters different collections at each. throughout the world. We “We’re coming out with as ± 7 E D E V E L O P P R O D U C T S P E C I ½C make sure our internal many as 100 - 150 new creative people travel styles in each market, con- FOREACHCUSTOMER4HEREARE internationally as well.” stantly driving fashion,” ob- At Pilgrim North Ameri- served Bryan Crisfi eld, ceo. NOCOOKIE CUTTERFORMULAS² ca, ceo William Genco not- The market today is “a very - FELIX PORCARO ed, “We haven’t developed fashion-driven business and CEO, CRIMZONROSE a conservative fashion ap- changes quickly every month proach like most brands – sometimes week-to-week,” because we don’t show CrimzonRose executive vice president and sell jewelry designs 6 - 12 months ahead of their launch date. 0ILGRIM Frankenberg said. “It’s all about develop- “We have a much shorter time from design to production, and take ing great product and how fast you can huge risks by producing big quantities to stock.”

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NEW NAME: Looks like Dudes Inc. got passed over as the name for Dennis Publishing 2.0. After Quadrangle Group New Deb Shop Owners MEMO PAD takes over the company, the publisher of Maxim, Stuff and Blender will be known as Alpha Media Group. The self-assured title not only gives the company a more offi cial, corporate-sounding moniker, but also references the term Call On Allen Questrom “alpha male” which, according to “Webster’s New Millennium Dictionary,” means “the dominant member in a group of males.” Sources say one of the names suggested early in the process was Maxim Media, refl ecting the Continued from page one company’s biggest magazine in its stable, but that was quickly shot down. in retail as well as in the insurance, consumer Quadrangle is expected to fi nalize the acquisition the second week in goods, entertainment and health care sectors. August. — Stephanie D. Smith “I always loved the juniors business,” said Questrom. “There is an opportunity to grow it MISSING THE TARGET: Star may have more problems. Sources close to the because everybody is focusing on the contem- magazine say the title will not make its 1.5 million rate base for the fi rst half porary business. Juniors is always unique and of this year, and is considering another rate-base reduction, to around 1.2 always changing.” million, for next year. This winter, Star sold between 600,000 to 800,000 Deb Shops operates specialty apparel newsstand copies a week, but since editor in chief Candace Trunzo took over stores under the Deb and Tops ’N Bottoms the title in April, sales have hovered in the 600,000 range, according to names. The chain posted $327 million in sales sources familiar with scan data. American Media Inc. in April said Star would last year. The company has a strong balance lower its rate base to 1.35 million for the second half of the year, but if sales sheet, is known for its high-low pricing and re- maintain their current range, the title could miss the lowered circulation cently has boosted plus-size merchandise so guarantee. Sales of celebrity titles tend to pick up in the summer and decline that it’s sold in about one-third of the stores. in the fall as folks spend more time in the offi ce or at school, which means Questrom said Deb Shops, which is concen- single-copy sales — accounting for half of Star’s circulation — could fall trated in the Northeast but is spread across 42 below 600,000 over the course of the next six months. states, has particularly good growth potential in Meanwhile, the New York Post on Friday said billionaire Ron Burkle is Florida, Texas and California, where the brand continuing talks with AMI to acquire the company. Sources close to the has either a minor presence or no presence at all. deal say Burkle and AMI chief executive offi cer David Pecker are in deep In addition, Questrom noted a high percentage negotiations, and a deal could be done as soon as the end of next month. A of those who shop Deb Shops are Hispanic, the spokesperson for AMI did not respond to questions by deadline. — S.D.S. fastest-growing demographic group in the U.S. He characterized juniors as “a very com- STYLISH LIST: Apparently petitive” apparel segment. “But Deb Shops is a spot on a Condé Nast differentiated by its fashionable, value-ori- masthead ups your odds ented merchandise and strong positioning of making Vanity Fair’s with junior regular and plus-size customers,” Best Dressed List. This September, a number of Condé Nasters make the cut, I always loved the juniors business. There is an including some from VF’s own masthead. Fashion and opportunity“ to grow it because everybody is focusing style director Michael Roberts, Vanity Fair contributing editor on the contemporary business. Juniors is always unique Lisa Eisner and photographer at large Jonathan Becker and always changing. appear, as do Mitch Glazer, Hollywood producer and close ” — Allen Questrom friend of Vanity Fair editor Graydon Carter, and his wife, added Questrom. “We look forward to growing senior vice president of merchandising. actress Kelly Lynch. Glazer the company’s already-strong customer base Lee Equity, through its affiliate, DSI is editing the magazine for and continuing to roll out its plus-size mer- Holdings LLC, will acquire 100 percent of the Condé Nast Media Group’s chandise offering.” outstanding shares of Deb Shops for $27.25 latest brand extension, Nonetheless, the 67-year-old Questrom’s a common share, representing a small pre- “Movies Rock.” Corporate new role at Deb Shops might raise some eye- mium off the closing price Friday of $26.51 on cousin Vogue is also well brows, given that he’s taken on much larger Nasdaq. Shares dropped 17 cents on the day. represented, with Teen Vogue retail enterprises as the former chief execu- The deal is expected to close in the third fi s- editor in chief Amy Astley; tive of J.C. Penney, Federated Department cal quarter of this year. Vogue style director Alexandra Stores and Barneys New York. He’s also on With Deb Shops, Lee Partners has a long- Kotur; Marina Rust Connor, the Wal-Mart board, and his name perennially term interest that could extend for fi ve to Vogue contributing editor, and Bee Shaffer, daughter of Vogue editor in chief has surfaced when there has been speculation seven years before a decision is made to sell Anna Wintour. (Of note: Shaffer does not list her mother as a fashion icon in regarding major retail executive vacancies. it, Questrom said. her blurb — instead opting for Joan Didion, Irving Penn and her sister-in-law, Deb Shops was 66 percent owned by insid- Rounick and Warren Weiner, executive vice Kathryn Neale, but she does admit to borrowing her mother’s sunglasses.) ers, including several senior executives who president, have entered into three-year con- The list also recognizes fashionable couples David and Victoria Beckham, have been with the store for years and are of sulting agreements. “We believe this transac- Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie and Ruben and Isabel Toledo. Why name them to the retirement age. tion is in the best interests of all shareholders,” list? “Because they’re Manhattan’s Latins,” says the magazine. (They and Questrom said a new ceo to succeed Rounick said in a statement. “It serves as an nearly half a million others, according to the 2000 New York Census.) Marvin Rounick will be sought. Questrom will important step in the growth of our business.” One of those “Latins,” Gisele Bündchen, is on Vanity Fair’s September be involved in the search, and the strategic di- Thomas H. Lee, president of Lee Equity cover. The leggy Brazilian was shot by Mario Testino, who, along with Roberts, rection of the business. “I will play an active Partners, said in a statement, “The transac- also produced a Brazilian photo feature inside. — S.D.S. role in the company, but not a daily operating tion with Deb Shops, a company which Messrs. role,” Questrom said. Rounick and Weiner have guided to many years W APPOINTMENT: Brooke Magnaghi has been promoted to accessories and Rounick and his team ran the business of successes, creates a terrifi c opportunity for jewelry market director of W magazine, overseeing all jewelry coverage and “very effi ciently and very effectively, but no our fi rm. Given our industry expertise in retail assuming responsibility for the magazine’s accessories coverage following the longer want the obligation,” Questrom said. and our focus on post-investment operating im- departures from the company of Alison Burwell, formerly jewelry news editor, “The best thing for them and their families provement, we are excited to collaborate with and Meggan Crum, its previous accessories director. Magnaghi had been W’s was to sell the company.” Deb Shops’ existing management to refresh the jewelry fashion editor. Rounick is 67. Another top executive likely to store operational model and to execute a new be replaced is the 68-year-old Allan Laufgraben, store-growth plan.”

Obituary Michael Steven Cannon, 53 he fashion and media communities spokeswoman for Hearst Corp., which nonprofi t work before eventually join- Ton Saturday lost a longtime pillar publishes Town & Country, said that ing Town & Country, although he con- JULIE SKARRAT PHOTO BY with the death of Michael Steven Cannon, Cannon was at the helm of “scores of tinued performing. former editor at large and men’s fashion events and presentations for the maga- The funeral will be in Memphis at editor at Town & Country magazine. zine.” His sartorial stature was rec- the Memorial Park Funeral Home on The cause of death was complica- ognized by a spot in the International Aug. 4. In lieu of flowers, donations tions due to multiple systems atrophy, Best-Dressed List Hall of Fame. can be made to the donor’s charity of a progressive neurological disorder. He Born in Memphis, Cannon’s fi rst ca- choice. A memorial service, planned by was 53. reer and love was music, performing both Cannon’s family and his colleagues Cannon was Town & Country’s fi rst- as a pianist and singer throughout the at Hearst, will be held at Hearst Tower ever men’s fashion editor, and over- Seventies and Eighties. Later, in New in Manhattan in September. Michael Steven saw event coverage in the magazine. A York, he turned to men’s fashion and — Irin Carmon Cannon in 2002. WWD, MONDAY, JULY 30, 2007 29 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise. 30 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 30, 2007 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

TECH DESIGNER CONTEMPORARY PRIVATE LABEL Production Coordinator Excellent knowledge of patternmaking & Womens apparel company seeks a highly garment construction req’d. Categories DESIGN STUDIO SEEKS: organized, detail oriented individual. include women’s sportswear and cut & Excellent computer skills a must min. sew knits. Will be responsible for assisting Technical Designer 1-3 years exp. Fabric knowledge a plus. both head Patternmaker & Designer for HANDBAGS Sweater Designer 2(x)ist, the leading Men’s Fashion Please fax resume to: 201-964-5816 developing tech packs, specs, garment NY based Handbag Co. has openings for Underwear brand seeking superb detail, etc. Please Fax resume & salary motivated & exp’d. Independent Sales requirements to: 212-244-6384 or E-mail Assoc. Sweater Designer to: [email protected] Reps to handle straw, fabric, fashion, Technical Designer. Candidate must *Production or Product* vinyl, leather, and evening bags. Territo- have experience creating tech pack, Assistants-Coordinators-Managers ries available. E-mail: [email protected] Accessories Designer & specs, and illustrations. Excellent Many Jobs-Excellent Salaries ALASKA FUR knowledge of patternmaking and Call B. Murphy(212)643-8090; fax 643-8127 TECH DESIGNER Assoc. Dress Designer garment construction. Independent Faviana, a special occasion design house GALLERY Must have strong design and seeking highly qualified, organized & worker skilled at multi-tasking. Com- Production Patternmaker creative person with min. 3 yrs. exp. Alaska and Park City, Utah technical construction knowledge. munication w/over-seas factories and Streetwear manufacturer seeks Must be computer proficient! Become Premier Furriers is looking for Photoshop and Illustrator required. identifying & resolving issues with patternmaker must have knowledge part of our talented & successful team! Relevant exp. required- 4 yrs for of mens and womens fits. Able to give E-mail resume: [email protected] select fine womens specialty production. Close working relation- fit correction comments and specs to stores nationwide for: Designers, 2 yrs for Associates. ships w/Design, Product Develop- over seas factories. Detail oriented Trunk Shows/Consignment ment, Production, and Private Label with at least 5 years experience. Email: [email protected] Tech. Designer / Production and Lease Depts. We have Private Label Sales Exec. teams. Private Label experience also SWEATERS a fantastic collection of high Seeking energetic, exp’d individual a plus! Degree in Fashion with 3 Sweater co. seeks motivated, person for fashion & fine quality furs, w/ good existing customer relation- years working experience. Please Production/Sales Assistant available technical position. Responsi- shearlings & fur accessories. E-mail resume with cover letter to: bilities will include: prod specs, prod ships who can grow multi-category Rapidly growing Trim & Label Co. is fittings, prod l/d’s, dye lot & shade band FOR DETAILS CALL/EMAIL private label women’s fashion biz [email protected] seeking an experienced, organized, and approvals. Will train an eager candidate, proactive individual to assist with both but some knowledge is a must. Must be MICHAEL BOETTCHER AT: Sales & Production of product. Candi- organized, detail oriented and able to go Fax (after 7pm) or email resumes to: dates must have extensive knowledge with the flow. Must be proficient on 214-717-9121 or 212-869-3179 or of Microsoft Excel & Windows. Fluent Adobe Photoshop or Illustrator and Office Asst./ Receptionist in Chinese also preferable. Please Fax Microsoft programs. [email protected] resume to Danny Littell at: 212-967-8501 [email protected] Busy ladies sptswr Co. seeks bright, A fabulous growth opportunity for the Search For Space In Garment Center SUBJECT MUST REFERENCE POSITION energetic, computer literate person to right person. Will work directly with Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee manage front desk, answer phones Prod. Coordinator. Queens location. www.midcomre.com and data entry. Good organizational RECEPTIONIST $35K Email resumes to: Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 skills a necessity. Fax resume and DESIGNERS WELCOME Front Desk. Meet & Great Visitors [email protected] cover letter to: 212-730-2190 or fax to Attn: Sherry: 718-418-9354 Kids - Handbags $$$$ MS Word Req’d. Great Opportunity Showrooms & Lofts Graphic Artists - Accessories BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Call Laurie 212-947-3399 or Intimates, Room Decor $$$$ Patternmaker $70-95K BOE. Current Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Boys - All Sizes $$$$ e-mail: [email protected] ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Women’s Accessory Business strong exp on Gerber 8.0, 8.1, or 8.2 [email protected] systems req’d. Growing well-known firm. KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS TECHNICAL DESIGNER Relocateable; Asking $450,000; Owner Absorba & Juicy Couture Baby, seeks will train/consult; Prestigious customers NYC. Call: 973-564-9236 or DESIGN/SALES OPPTY Email: [email protected] candidate w/min. 3 years exp. & knowl- such as Henri Bendel & Kitson; Great edge of garment construction. Team play- brand w/placement in Seventeen, Cosmo, La Regale, a leading importer of social occasion handbags seeks an assertive, RECEPTIONIST er for fast paced environment; good & other press. Call Nate at Sunbelt Dress company looking for an experienced salary/benefits. Fax or E-mail resume to: Business Sales/Acquisitions: 206-852-6394 self motivated person with the ability Planner $45-55K Min 1 yr exp in tracking to work independently. Involvement in & forecasting inventory to buy. Manage receptionist. The Ideal candidate will 212-714-0401 / [email protected] sales & product. Opportunity to learn inventory schedule. MS Excel. Career have a pleasant phone demeanor and will Broadway Garment Center the business with tremendous growth oppty. College degree helpful. Hudson be able to work well under pressure. Duties NICE OFFICE + SHOWROOM potential. Job responsibilities include County, NJ area. [email protected] will include answering heavy phones, AVAILABLE TO SHARE tradeshow set up & attendance in addi- greeting customers, handling incoming/ out- TECHNICAL DESIGNER Please Call 917-907-1667 tion to working with small stores. Learn going packages, ordering supplies; Computer Major apparel company seeks graphic all phases of product development skills and MS-Office a must. Email resumes designer for junior girls line "Pastry" while contributing to the design effort. PRODUCTION ASSISTANT and salary requirements in confidence from the hit MTV show "Run’s House. Computer skills are a must & travel is Fast-paced womans apparel co. seeks to: [email protected] Responsibilities include developing required. Only serious applicants looking detail-oriented person with 1-3 yrs exp graded size specs, conducting fittings, for a career need apply. Please e-mail to assist in NY office with flow of tech communicating fit comments and cor- your resume to: [email protected]. info from Des to Prod and creation of Replenishment Planner $70-80K BOE. respondence with factories. tech specs. Computer exp. a must. Current exp with Retail Link or Kmart FAX RESUMES TO: 212-730-9705 Accessory Company Please e-mail or fax your resume to: Workbench. Forecasting, analysis, Sales, Design, Production EXPORT/AR MANAGER [email protected] or (215)259-2060 mdtn growing co. [email protected] positions open. See ad details at: Leather exporter located in the fashion Textile Artist $50-65K BOE. Current exp www.SeeAdOnline.com district is looking for an Export/ AR in creative plaids/prints for newborn manager with previous experience, good Production Coordinator $40-55K BOE. Chi- SR. L/C COORD $50K Layette mkt. Kids fashion trends. HANDBAG PATTERNS Accountant/VP Finance to $110K. email, computer & communication skills. nese /Eng bi-ling req’d. Min 1-2 yrs exp. Strong knowledge of construction of Midtown luxury European jewelry co. Must be knowledgeable in accounting. Knowledge construction of garments/ Mass Market Knits. Excel. SAMPLES - PRODUCTION [email protected] 212-947-3400 fabric. Email: [email protected] Small/Large Production Strong exp in financials/ computer PELASE SEND RESUME TO : fabric. Mdtn. [email protected] High Quality / Since 1983 systems/ operations. Career Oppty. 212-967-8318 or [email protected] Email: [email protected] 212-727-0832 Sweater/Cut & Sew VP SALES/BUSINESS MGR Accounts Payable Mgr $60-70K Current GRAPHIC ARTIST Production Coordinator exp in both A/P + costing. Apparel or Major Apparel company seeks graphic Production Coordinator wanted to control Technical Designer $$$$$ PATTERN/SAMPLES accessory co. ok. Bergen County. Aggres- artist with experience in girls infant & coordinate all facets of production. 5 years exp w/ contemporary womens’ Fabulous Sleepwear Mfr. Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast sively growing co. [email protected] to 6X. Individual must be creative Candidate must have experience and designer market background. Must MUST Have Contacts with work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 and detail oriented. Responsibilities possess strong communication skills. know grading, pattern correction & include executing the art from start Target/JCP to Grow Estab Business Position will involve extensive follow-up Web PDM. Detailed oriented, self mo- Call Laurie 212-947-3399 or Patterns/Samples/Production Assistant Designer to finish packages for production. Will & coordination between mills & custom- tivator w/ strong communication skills Any Style. We do Bridal/Evening Leading streetwear manufactuer seeks work with mock up samples and the ers. Knowledge of documentation, Excel/ w/ overseas factories. Email resume w/ e-mail: [email protected] Gowns custom made & wholesale. a CAD designer, must be proficient in embroidery department. Word req’d. E-mail: [email protected] salary req’s to: [email protected] KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Call: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 Illustrator & Photoshop. Responsibil - FAX RESUMES TO : 212-730-9705 ities include:detail flat sketching and artwork layout. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Email: [email protected] GRAPHIC ARTISTS $30-80K ALL LEVELS GREAT COMPANY! PRODUCTIONS Buyer All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Generic and Licenses Call Sherry 212-719-0622. TRIM BUYER CREATIVITY A MUST!!! Est’d. Dress/Sportswear Co. seeks exp’d., Call Laurie 212-947-3399 or detail oriented team worker with strong PATTERNS, SAMPLES, follow-up & communication skills. Duties e-mail: [email protected] PRODUCTIONS include trim sourcing, purchasing, match- KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Full service shop to the trade. ing invoices with receivings & purchase Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. orders, and follow-up on trim deliveries. English/Spanish a plus. Fax: 516-829-7881 High Profile Designer Co. Looking for several positions. PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD •PRODUCTION SUPERVISOR with High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- DATA PROCESSING high end experience and sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Seeking motivated individual for entry •PRODUCTION ASSISTANT level data processing position using •TRIM BUYER REDUCE YOUR SHIPPING AS400. We will provide training. E-mail: [email protected] FAX RESUMES TO: 212-730-9705 Human Resources Administrator $50- COSTS!!! 65K. Exp in Cobra, 401’s, benefits, We are a Garment Manufacturer seeking to DESIGN DIRECTOR health plans, etc. Mdtn growing co. Career oppty. [email protected] share shipping costs. We have a state of the FANTASTIC OPPORTUNITY!! art facility located in Secaucus, New Jersey. $$$$$ MERCHANDISER/to $150K+ Clean, organized, computerized and seeking GIRLS (4-16x) /Mass Market other garment companies to share shipping Mass Handbags Call Laurie 212-947-3399 Great oppty. to direct private label line costs with us. We ship and receive domestic for major NYC children’s wear co. Req: and foreign product. e-mail: [email protected] must have current merch. expr. work- To discuss this opportunity, please send KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS ing on WAL-MART acct. & have either an email to: [email protected] Girls or Jr. expr. very trend savvy, exp. Designer $125-150K BOE Current exp in giving presentations to Wal-Mart, excl . private label 50%, panties & sleep communication skills & prof. manner. -wear 50%. Emphasis on creative. Manage Salary is opened DOE. Confidentially 4. Must hang with Victoria Secret, E-mail resume:[email protected] Ariela, SaraMax, Maidenform, etc. Fax 917-591-2521 Ph: 914-337-3660 [email protected] Office Assistant DESIGNER Licensed apparel & accessory company Major apparel company seeks designer seeks organized individual. Duties in- specializing in Girls 4-16 tops knits and clude order entry, office supplies, mail- recruitment wovens. Mass market experience a plus. ings, maintaining customer profiles, Individual must be organized and able samples, graphics, routing guides. to work in a fast paced environment. MSExcel a must. 3+ years experience. Reach top-level decision-makers in retail and manufacturing in Excellent salary and benefits. Please E-mail resume & salary requirement to: Fax resumes to: 212-730-9705 [email protected] WWD Marketplace. DESIGNER Office Assistant New York based women’s apparel import- New York based women’s apparel im- er seeks a designer with knowledge of porter seeks an office assistant with 3-4 missy & plus sizes dresses and sports- years exp. in garment industry. Must wear. Should have the ability to complete have computer skills, ability to multi- spec sheets. Must have 3-4 yrs experience task and to assist with sales. Must be of moderate to budget market. Please enthusiastic and motivated. Please email email resume to: [email protected] resume to: [email protected] WWD, MONDAY, JULY 30, 2007 31 WWD.COM Marionnaud Founder Hit With Fine Fashion Scoop PARIS — Marcel Frydman, the founder of difference for Calmia was that it and former chief executive officer of Select items was a well-being brand. It was about MILLER TIME: Sisters Sienna and Savannah Miller Marionnaud Parfumeries, has been from Calmia. inspiring people rather than giving made a quick trip to New York on Thursday fined 1 million euros, or $1.37 million them products that they could get from evening to mark the launch of their spring-summer at current exchange, by France’s secu- other brands.” Twenty8Twelve by S. Miller collection at the rooftop rities regulator for having falsified the Expansion plans include opening of the Gramercy Park hotel. “I need a vacation,” perfumery chain’s accounts. markets such as Benelux, Scandinavia, said Sienna, who left on Friday for Los Angeles to The Autorité des Marchés Australia and South Africa this year, continue working Financiers fi ned Frydman’s son Gerald, while the U.S. is in the cards for 2008. on a new fi lm. Marionnaud’s former vice president Calmia products currently are distrib- “I wish I could and fi nancial director, 500,000 euros, uted by The Wellness Group in the just come to New or $686,160. Marionnaud Parfumeries, U.K., the Asia-Pacifi c region and the York for a break, now owned by A.S. Watson, a subsid- Middle East. but that hasn’t iary of Hutchison Whampoa, was also In the U.K., Calmia products are car- happened in such fi ned 500,000 euros. A 100,000 euro, ried in a selection of department stores, a long time.” STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY or $137,232, fine was handed down including Harrods, John Lewis, Liberty She did, to KPMG, Marionnaud’s auditors at and Fenwick, as well as Whole Foods however, manage the time of the falsifi cation, and Yves doors. The brand’s fl agship boutique to dodge the Gouhir, an associate of KPMG, was and spa in the tony Marylebone neigh- paparazzi for a fi ned 40,000 euros, or $54,893. borhood here was shuttered in March. little while on The securities regulator’s deci- However, Wakefield said a smaller Thursday morning sion follows an investigation begun in store with treatment rooms is planned when the girls October 2005 regarding Marionnaud for the spring in central London. An went out for some having delayed the publication of e-commerce site also is scheduled quality sister its financial results three times in to launch by the end of the year, and time. “We had a 2004, plus irregularities in its fi nan- Wakefi eld said an at-home spa service really great sister cial disclosures in 2004, 2003 and BEAUTY BEAT could be a possibility by this fall. moment today 2002. Marcel Frydman and his two Today, the brand comprises a 22-unit and went to a sons, Gerald and Jean-Pierre, left The brand’s founder, Lucy skin care line dubbed Pure Skin; Home little place down Marionnaud in September 2005, seven Wakefield, and her husband, Nick Spa, a nine-unit collection of spa-ori- the street to get months after selling the perfumery Coleman, who have reprised their ented treatment items; 16 scented our nails done,” chain to A.S. Watson. roles as creative director and manag- candles and room sprays for the home, Sienna said. All the concerned parties can ap- ing director, respectively, will spear- plus apparel line Relaxation Clothing As for the peal the decision. head growth in markets including the and a yoga accessories range. collection, don’t Sienna and Savannah Miller — Ellen Groves U.S. and Europe starting this year. The Pure Skin prices range from 17 expect to see it couple left the fi ve-year-old fi rm last British pounds, or $34.80 at current on a runway soon, although the sisters said they year after failing to agree on strategic exchange, for a 100-ml. tube of Hand & hope to show one day. “For me, there has to be direction with then-investor Li & Fung, Nail Therapy to 45 pounds, or $92, for a a real reason to have a show,” said Savannah, Calmia Poised to Expand based in Hong Kong. 50-ml. bottle of Skin Rejuvenator. who used to design for Alexander McQueen. “At LONDON — Beauty and well-being “They wanted to take Calmia down Industry sources estimate the McQueen, the clothes called for a production and brand Calmia is limbering up for ex- a more conventional beauty route,” brand will generate turnover in excess he really puts on a real show.” Sienna agreed, pansion after being acquired in April by said Wakefi eld, adding that its origi- of 2.5 million pounds, or $5.1 million, but said, “I would love to have a show someday, Singapore-based The Wellness Group, nal concept was a holistic approach to this year. maybe if we are bought by the Gucci Group. Then which is owned by the Murjani family. beauty and lifestyle. “The whole point — Brid Costello we can have one.”

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