FASHION: s EYE: Ginnifer Goodwin becomes a romantic Natalia lead, page 4. Vodianova For more, see unveils WWD.com. lingerie, NEWS: Industry anxious as swim line, s Obama repositions China page 5. s trade policy, page 3. Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • February 9, 2009 • $3.00 WAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearwDMONdAY Smooth Talk Some lingerie designers like their luxury simple: easy, no-frills shapes in rich materials. Here, some examples: Chris Arlotta’s cashmere sweater, T-Luxury’s cotton and modal tank top for Anthropologie and Josie Natori’s silk tap shorts; necklace by Carol Horn vintage. For more, see pages 6 and 7. Forget Fashion Flash: Philo Rested and Ready For a Sensible Celine By Miles Socha PARIS — Phoebe Philo, one of the biggest fashion stars of her generation, is getting ready for her comeback after three years on the sidelines. And her first designs for Celine, to be unveiled in June for the pre-spring and cruise seasons, sound like they’re in tune with the times, underlining how much the industry has changed. Fireworks are out: Realism is in. “[Celine] RYAN TANIGUCHI USING TRESEMME; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN USING TRESEMME; STYLED BY TANIGUCHI RYAN never stood for flashy fashion. It always felt BY like it was pretty sober, and that feels really relevant,” Philo said in her first interview since taking the creative helm of the brand, owned by luxury giant LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. “It’s going to be more about a MIZU FOR SUSAN PRICE; HAIR foundation for a wardrobe.” BY See Back, Page8 PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: AGNESA/RED; MAKEUP KYLE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2009 WWD.COM Christian Dior Sales Flat in ’08; Rtw, Luxe Bags On Growth Track WWDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMONDAY By Miles Socha said, disclosing that Dior bou- FASHION tiques in Palm Beach and Puerto Lingerie designers have a new energy for fall, PARIS — Christian Dior Couture Rico recently were shuttered. 6 did not escape the global econom- “We want to continue to put reflected in brightened palettes, painterly prints ic downturn, and saw sales growth Dior at the top level in the luxury and color blocks, along with artists’ smocks. stall as business conditions tough- market,” he said. “We see the ben- GENERAL ened in the U.S. and Japan. efits on the cosmetics business. We Fourth-quarter revenues have more and more synergies.” 1 Phoebe Philo, one of the biggest fashion stars of dropped 6.9 percent to 202 mil- Toledano said Dior would her generation, is getting ready for her comeback lion euros, or $266.4 million. continue to expand its retail after three years on the sidelines. For the full year, revenues at network in 2009, with more lo- 4 EYE: Ginnifer Goodwin isn’t accustomed to being the French fashion and acces- cations planned for China and a leading lady, but in “He’s Just Not that Into You,” sories house slipped 2.8 percent the Middle East, as well as St. the actress attains romantic lead status. to 765 million euros, or $1.13 bil- Petersburg in Russia. The com- lion, even though Dior said the pany added 15 stores in 2008. 5 Etam staged a glitzy catwalk show in Paris business “continued to do well Dior has been driving its prod- that included the unveiling of a new lingerie and in Europe, the Middle East and uct mix and retail environments swimwear line by model Natalia Vodianova. China.” Expressed at constant ex- more and more upscale to reflect ACCESSORIES: Feeling the bite of the global change rates, total 2008 revenues its stature as a pillar of Paris high 9 economic crisis, foreign retailer attendance at NI were flat. O fashion, exemplified by John Premiere Classe in Paris fell 29 percent. Profits in 2008 from recur- A Dior Galliano’s summer couture col- GIANN ring operations stood at 9 million lection inspired by Dutch Masters s 10 INNERWEAR: Despite retail consolidation and euros, or $13.2 million. This com- runway and Dior’s New Look legacy. frugal budgets, preregistration at the Curve shows VANNI pares with operating profits of 74 O look for Details about the Dior busi- in New York and Las Vegas is strong. GI Y fall-winter million euros, or $101.4 million, B ness were released in tandem 15 Apparel and textile manufacturers cut 9,600 jobs in 2007. Dollar figures are con- OTO 2008-2009. with results for Christian Dior in January and department stores slashed 8,600 verted at average exchange rates PH SA, the parent of LVMH Moët positions as U.S. payrolls fell by 598,000. for the corresponding period. Hennessy Louis Vuitton and the Dior said the 2008 profit figure reflects the Dior fashion house. Revenues at the holding com- 16 With no signs of a letup in the recession and slower pace of business and costs for expand- pany rose 4 percent to 17.93 billion, or $26.38 bil- A Caftan by Josie many secondary brands failing to gain traction, ing its store network and overhauling the supply lion, while the group share of net profits declined Natori Couture. some retailers may have to sever their spin-offs. chain, “a substantial project that will improve the 9.5 percent to 796 million euros, or $1.17 billion. In profitability of Christian Dior Couture.” organic terms, revenues grew 7 percent in 2008. Classified Advertisements.....................................................................................18-19 The company gave no sales or earnings guid- The sales figures closely echo the LVMH an- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS ance for 2009, but said its objective would be to nual results announced last week, which showed [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’s NAME. “increase the flexibility of its organization and to resilience amid the downturn, thanks to double- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 continue its growth strategy of developing very digit organic growth at Louis Vuitton and the FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 197, NO. 27. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with high-end, iconic products.” strong performance of Sephora and the perfumes one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in April, June and Sidney Toledano, Dior’s president and chief and cosmetics division. August, three additional issues in March and September, and four additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY executive officer said widespread and early mark- Indeed, Dior’s strong fashion image continues 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, downs in the U.S. hurt its business late last year. to pump up the fortunes of its beauty business, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human By contrast, Dior conducted a brief sale in Paris which LVMH said posted a “record year in terms Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada during the regulated period at a temporary loca- of revenue and profitability” as the luxury giant Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 tion, which “didn’t impact” full-price sales at its posted a 4 percent increase in fourth-quarter POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Avenue Montaigne flagship. revenues and 2008 profits of 2.03 billion euros, or 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/ Dior also exited the logo and “access prod- $2.98 billion at average exchange rates. wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will uct” business as it pursues an upscaling drive. On LVMH trumpeted the “excellent progress” of be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence the plus side, Dior posted “significant growth” in Diorshow Iconic mascara and Dior Addict make- to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other ready-to-wear, watches, fine jewelry and handbags up lines, along with successful fragrance launches Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber priced over 1,000 euros retail, Toledano said. Dior Homme Sport and Escale à Portofino. For its list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest The repositioning effort has “worked very well 2009 outlook, LVMH said makeup creativity would our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE in Europe,” meaning some store locations driven continue to be inspired by Dior’s couture, with RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED by access products are under scrutiny, Toledano products such as Diorskin Nude.