©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
The Highlands
Includes Why Go? Sololá...... 93 Guatemala’s most dramatic region – El Altiplano – stretch- Panajachel...... 93 es from Antigua to the Mexican border. Traditional values Santiago Atitlán...... 105 and customs are strongest here. Maya dialects are spoken San Pedro far more widely than Spanish, and over a dozen distinct La Laguna...... 108 groups dwell within the region, each with its own language and clothing. Such extraordinary diversity is perhaps most San Juan La Laguna.... 112 evident in the weekly markets of Chichicastenango and San San Marcos Francisco El Alto. This is where indigenous tradition blends La Laguna...... 114 most tantalizingly with Spanish, and it is common to see Chichicastenango...... 118 Maya rituals taking place in front of and inside colonial Nebaj...... 125 churches. Quetzaltenango...... 130 Most travelers spend a spell at volcano-ringed Lago de Huehuetenango...... 147 Atitlán. West of the lake stands Guatemala’s second city, Quetzaltenango. Northward spread the Cuchumatanes mountains, where indigenous life follows its own rhythms amidst fantastic mountain landscapes. For hikers, this is the promised land. Best Places to Eat ¨¨Restaurante Hana (p101) ¨¨Café El Artesano (p113) When to Go If you’re up for trekking the Ixil Triangle or scaling Vol- ¨ ¨Café Sabor Cruceño (p117) cán Santa María, trails tend to be less muddy and volcano ¨¨Allala (p115) visibility is best from November to April. ¨¨Mayan Inn (p120) Key events to plan a trip around include Quetzaltenan- go’s annual party (late September or early October); devil- burning ceremonies in Chichicastenango (early December); Best Places and folk saint Maximón’s spring move in Santiago Atitlán (Holy Week). to Sleep Try to be in Todos Santos Cuchumatán on November 1, ¨¨La Fortuna (p117) when the normally sedate town hosts a no-holds-barred ¨¨Mayan Inn (p120) celebration with rowdy horse races and all-male marimba dancing. ¨¨Hacienda Mil Amores (p130) ¨¨La Casa del Mundo (p116) ¨¨Posada Rural Finca Chaculá (p156) 91
á The Highlands GHighlands Highlights m
9 a
CITY
5 h
C
a
s e
u Santiago Sacatepéquez
d
tig Cubulco
a Volcán Agua (3766m)
a
Viejo s GUATEMALA
y
de
r An Mixco
n e
la r n ú
t Joyabaj n
a P
e n c ra
a i o
Benemérito L a
G S
Parque Nacional Laguna Lachuá
t San Juan Comalapa o í a
1
de las América R
l m
Chimaltenango u
Uspantán h Volcán s
(3763m)
San Mateo Ixtatán Mateo San c
Chaju (3976m) Iximché
Tecpán u ) and other remote remote ) and other ), San Juan Cotzal 1
Acatenango C Mingling with the Maya in with the Maya Mingling Volcán Fuego Chajul
capula 154 152 cán
a
Chichicastenang s
Ix
S
(p villages. 5 Cuchumatán Santos Todos (p o
Patzún l San Lucas Tolimán Santa Cruz del Quiché 11 e Montes Azules Montes Los Encuentros
Reserva de la Biósfera Reserva e
Café
Flor d d
Nebaj Panajachel Atitlán Volcán
a (3537m) Aguacatán Barillas
r ngo Atitlán
a
e a Lago de
n
l Nebaj La Cuchilla Totonicapán l Atitlán
i Santiago
uete
d Laguna Magdalena
h Solom San Juan Ixcoy r Momostenango San Francisco El Alto Volcán Chiantla o Santa Eulalia (3020m) (3158m)
Hue Quetzaltenango C San Pedro Quetzaltenango San Mateo Ixtatán Volcán Tolimán 1 Laguna Yolnajab (Laguna Brava) Yalambojoch Volcán Santa María (3772m) ). ). á Salcajá aking in the stunning aking in the stunning Zunil riangle around
Interamericana T
Hwy Spanish your Upgrading (3837m) El Palmar La Torre Viejo 130 125 El Zarco Junction Zaculeu (p 4 the of life village and scenery Ixil T (p 3 in volcanoes and ascending and around Viejo Jacaltenango Pueblo Acatán Cuatro Caminos Gracias a Dios Lagos de Montebello
Atitán ). 20 miles Finca Chacul San Miguel Volcán 30 km Highlights San Juan (2488m) ) and 145 (2900m) Santiaguito
Cuchumatán Retalhuleu
illa Todos Santos Lago de Lago o (p s 118 1 Nentón j
e
n Lagunas de Montebello
a (p
M
r Volcán Chicabal
a Volcán
Parque Nacional San Juan Ostuncalco a (4220m) X
L Tajumulco huipiles
ME N 190
San Marcos 1
o
i ).
La Trinitaria R ) San Martín Sacatepéquez 92
itán 2 Highlands (p 0 0
Ciudad El Carmen Mangrove
om Talismán Volcán Tacaná n
C (4093m Soaring over, diving under over, Soaring Hunting for Hunting for Angostura Presa de la
Cuauhtémoc Ciudad Tecún Umá Ocós other Maya weavings at weavings Maya other in markets indigenous vibrant Chichicastenango Alto El Francisco San or relaxing by sublime by or relaxing Atitlán 2 and tunics) (embroidered The 1 MEXICO OCEAN PACIFIC