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Հ 249 гۻóÇ ³åñáõÙÝ»ñ: Մ³ë »ññáñ¹- ºñ.: §Ô-î»É»ÏáÙ¦ ö´À, 2008. –160 ¿ç

© & ℗ K Telecom CJSC, 2008Ã.

ISBN # 978-99941-2-192-2

§Ð³Û»óÇ ³åñáõÙÝ»ñ¦, Ù³ë »ññáñ¹, ºñ¨³Ý, 2008, 160 ¿ç §¸ÇÇÙ øáÙÛáõÝÇù»Ûßݽ¦ ·áí³½¹³ÛÇÝ ·áñͳϳÉáõÃÛáõÝ

§Ð³Û»óÇ ³åñáõÙÝ»ñ¦ ·ñùÇ »ññáñ¹ Ù³ëÝ Áݹ·ñÏáõÙ ¨ µ³½Ù³ÏáÕÙ³ÝÇ ï»Õ»ÏáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñáí ³Ý¹ñ³¹³éÝáõÙ ¿ ѳÛÏ³Ï³Ý »ñ»ù ÑÇÝ áõ Ýáñ ù³Õ³ùÝ»ñǪ ºñ¨³ÝÇ, ¶ÛáõÙñÇÇ ¨ ÞáõßÇÇ å³ïÙ³Ùß³ÏáõóÛÇÝ ³í³Ý¹áõÛÃÝ»ñÇÝ áõ ù³Õ³ù³ÏñÃáõÃÛ³ÝÁ: ¶ñùÇ ¿ç»ñÇó Ù»½ »Ý ݳÛáõÙ ù³Õ³ùÇ ÑÇÝ áõ Ýáñ ¹»Ùù»ñÝ áõ å³ïÙáõÙ ³Ýó³Í ¹Åí³ñÇÝ ×³Ý³å³ñÑÇ áõ Ý»ñϳ Ýí³×áõÙÝ»ñÇ Ù³ëÇÝ:

¶ÇñùÁ Ññ³ï³ñ³Ïí³Í ¿ §Ô-î»É»ÏáÙ¦ ö´À-Ç å³ïí»ñáí ¨ ݳ˳ï»ëí³Í ã¿ í³×³éùÇ Ñ³Ù³ñ:

¶ñùáõÙ Áݹ·ñÏí³Í µáÉáñ Ñá¹í³ÍÝ»ñÝ áõ Éáõë³ÝϳñÝ»ñÁ å³ßïå³Ýí³Í »Ý Ñ»ÕÇݳϳÛÇÝ Çñ³íáõÝùÝ»ñáí: ¸ñ³Ýó ³åûñÇÝÇ í»ñ³Ññ³ï³ñ³ÏáõÙÝ ³é³ç³óÝáõÙ ¿ å³ï³ë˳ݳïíáõÃÛáõݪ ÐÐ ûñ»Ýë¹ñáõÃÛ³Ùµ ë³ÑÙ³Ýí³Í ϳñ·áí:

Տպված է §Լիմուշ¦ տպագրատանը Երևան, Հայաստան Հրատարակված է / Published by

гñ·»ÉÇ µ³ñ»Ï³ÙÝ»ñ, Իϳí³ñ ÉÇÝ»ÉÁ Ù»Í å³ï³ë˳ݳïíáõÃÛáõÝ ¿: ²ÛÝ µ³½Ù³ÃÇí ËáãݹáïÝ»ñ ѳÕóѳñ»Éáõ ³Ù»ÝûñÛ³ å³ñï³Ï³ÝáõÃÛáõÝ ¿` ÷³ÛÉáõÝ Ï³ï³ñáճϳÝáõÃÛáõÝ ³å³Ñáí»Éáõ ѳٳñ: àñå»ë г۳ëï³ÝÇ ³é³ç³ï³ñ µçç³ÛÇÝ ûå»ñ³ïáñ` ìÇí³ê»É-Øîê-Á ëáódzɳå»ë å³ï³ë˳ݳïáõ Ñ³Û Ïáñåáñ³ïÇí ù³Õ³ù³óÇ ¿, áñ ß³Ñ»É ¿ ѳ۳ëï³ÝóÇÝ»ñÇ íëï³ÑáõÃÛáõÝÁ: ²ÏïÇí ¹»ñ áõݻݳÉáí г۳ëï³ÝÇ Ñ³ë³ñ³Ï³Ï³Ý áõ Ùß³ÏáõóÛÇÝ ÏÛ³ÝùáõÙ` ìÇí³ê»É-Øîê-Á ׳ݳå³ñÑ ¿ ѳñÃ»É ³ÛÉ ·áñͳñ³ñÝ»ñÇ áõ ϳ½Ù³Ï»ñåáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÇ Ñ³Ù³ñ` Çñ»Ýó ·áñÍáõÝ»áõÃÛáõÝÁ ͳí³É»Éáõ áñå»ë å³ï³ë˳ݳïáõ ù³Õ³ù³óÇÝ»ñ: Øßï³å»ë ÉÇÝ»Éáí ѳñ³÷á÷áË Ñ»é³Ñ³Õáñ¹³ÏóáõÃÛ³Ý áÉáñïÇ ³é³ç³ï³ñÝ»ñÇ Dear Friends, ß³ñùáõÙ` ìÇí³ê»É-Øîê-Á Ñ»ï³åݹáõÙ ¿ ³í»ÉÇ Ñ»é³Ñ³ñ Ýå³ï³ÏÝ»ñ, ù³Ý ³åñ³Ýù³ï»ë³ÏÝ»ñÝ With leadership comes great responsibility. It requires a áõ ͳé³ÛáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÝ »Ý: Ø»Ýù û·ÝáõÙ »Ýù daily commitment to overcome numerous challenges ½³ñ·³óÝ»Éáõ ³í»ÉÇ É³í Ï»Ýë³Ï»ñå: ê³ Ï³ñáÕ ¿ and to set the bar for excellence. As Armenia’s leading Çñ³Ï³Ý³óվ»É ÙdzÛÝ Ñ³ë³ñ³ÏáõÃÛ³Ý Ñ»ï Ó»éù mobile operator, VivaCell-MTS is a Socially Responsible Ó»éùÇ ïí³Í ¨ Ù»ñ ·áñÍáõÝ»áõÃÛ³Ý ßñç³Ý³ÏÝ»ñáõÙ Corporate Armenian citizen which has earned the trust of its fellow Armenians. Playing an active role in the de- Áݹ·ñÏ»Éáí ϳñ¨áñ »Ýóϳéáõóí³Íù³ÛÇÝ, velopment of social and cultural life in Armenia, ÏñóϳÝ, µÝ³å³Ñå³Ý³Ï³Ý, VivaCell-MTS has paved the way for other businesses å³ïÙ³Ùß³ÏáõóÛÇÝ, »ñ³Åßï³Ï³Ý ¨ and organizations to act as Responsible citizens. ëåáñï³ÛÇÝ Ý³Ë³Ó»éÝáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñ: Always at the forefront of the ever-changing telecommu- ìÇí³ê»É-Øîê-Á ϳñ¨áñáõÙ ¿ Ñ³Û ÅáÕáíñ¹Ç nications industry, VivaCell-MTS aims further than just ëï»Õͳ·áñÍ á·ÇÝ ¨ Éáõë³íáñ ³å³·³ÛÇ products and services. We want to help develop a better í»ñ³µ»ñÛ³É Ýñ³ å³ïÏ»ñ³óáõÙÝ»ñÁ, ÇÝãÝ lifestyle. This can only be done by joining hands with the ³ñï³óáÉíáõÙ ¿ Ù»ñ Ý»ñ¹ñáõÙÝ»ñáõÙ` ѳïϳå»ë society and diversifying our scope of activities to em- Ùß³ÏáõÛÃÇ ³ëå³ñ»½áõÙ: ÈÇÝ»Éáí Ù»ñ ݳËÝÇÝ»ñÇ brace vital infrastructural, educational, environmental, ųé³Ý·áñ¹Á` åÇïÇ å³Ñ»Ýù áõ å³Ñå³Ý»Ýù cultural, historical, musical and sports initiatives. ¹³ñ»ñÇó Ù»½ ѳë³Í Ñá·¨áñ áõ Ùß³ÏáõóÛÇÝ ·³ÝÓ»ñÁ, áñáÝù ϳ½ÙáõÙ »Ý Ù»ñ ³½·³ÛÇÝ VivaCell-MTS cherishes the creative spirit of the ÇÝùÝáõÃÛáõÝÁ, ù³Ý½Ç ³é³Ýó ³½·³ÛÇÝ ÇÝùÝáõÃÛ³Ý Armenian people and their vision of a brighter future. ó³Ýϳó³Í ³½· ³ÝϳëÏ³Í ÏÏáñóÝÇ Çñ ³½·³ÛÇÝ This is reflected in our contributions and support, Ýϳñ³·ÇñÁ: Ðáõëáí »Ù, Ù»Ýù ÝáõÛÝå»ë ·³ÉÇù especially in the cultural sphere. As heirs to the ë»ñáõݹݻñÇÝ Å³é³Ý·»Éáõ µ³Ý ÏáõݻݳÝù: treasures of our ancestors, we must treasure and protect their centuries old spiritual and cultural legacy, which constitute our Armenian identity, because any na- §Ð³Û»óÇ ³åñáõÙÝ»ñ¦ ·ñùÇ »ññáñ¹ tion without an identity will surely be on the road to dis- Ññ³ï³ñ³ÏáõÃÛ³Ùµ, Ù»Ýù ÏÛ³ÝùÇ »Ýù ÏáãáõÙ »ñ»ù integration. Hopefully, we today will leave a legacy of ÑÇݳíáõñó ѳÛÏ³Ï³Ý ù³Õ³ùÝ»ñÇ` ºñ¨³ÝÇ, our own for future generations to inherit. ¶ÛáõÙñÇÇ ¨ ÞáõßÇÇ å³ïÙáõÃÛáõÝÁ` Áݹ·Í»Éáí Ýñ³Ýó å³ïÙ³Ï³Ý Ý߳ݳÏáõÃÛáõÝÁ, ÅáÕáíñ¹Ç á·áõ With this Third Edition of Armenian Impressions, we ïáÏáõÝáõÃÛáõÝÝ áõ ųٳݳϳÏÇó ϳñ¨áñáõÃÛáõÝÁ bring to life the stories of three ancient Armenian cities – ·ñ³íÇã Éáõë³ÝϳñÝ»ñÇ ¨ Ù»Ïݳµ³ÝáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÇ Yerevan, Gyumri and Shushi – affirming their historical ÙÇçáóáí: Æñ å³ïÙáõÃÛ³Ý ÁÝóóùáõ٠г۳ëï³ÝÁ significance, spirit of endurance, and modern µ³½áõÙ Ù»Í ù³Õ³ùÝ»ñ ¿ áõÝ»ó»É,ë³Ï³ÛÝ ï³ñµ»ñ vitality through captivating images and texts. ųٳݳϳßñç³ÝÝ»ñÇ í»ñ³µÝ³Ï»óáõÙÝ»ñÇ ¨ Throughout its history, Armenia has had many large ûï³ñÝ»ñÇ ïÇñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý ³ñ¹ÛáõÝùáõÙ, ³Ûë cities, however, through time, migration and centuries of ÏáÃáÕÝ»ñÇó ß³ï ùÇã ÝÙáõßÝ»ñ »Ý å³Ñå³Ýí»É: foreign rule, only a few of these important ºñ¨³ÝÁ, ¶ÛáõÙñÇÝ ¨ ÞáõßÇÝ Ù»ñ ÑÇÝ landmarks remain. Yerevan, Gyumri and Shushi are ù³Õ³ù³ÏñÃáõÃÛ³Ý Ï»Ý¹³ÝÇ íϳÛáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÇó »Ý, among these few living testaments of our ancient áñáÝù åÇïÇ å³Ñå³Ý»Ýù áñå»ë ѳÛÏ³Ï³Ý civilization and we treasure them as proof of the ïáÏáõÝ á·áõ ³å³óáõÛó: resiliency of the Armenian spirit. Ðáõëáí »Ýù, ¸áõù µ³í³Ï³ÝáõÃÛáõÝ Ïëï³Ý³ù` We hope you will enjoy the journey through these ׳ݳå³ñÑáñ¹»Éáí ³Ûë ÑÇÝ áõ Ýáñ ù³Õ³ùÝ»ñáí: ancient yet modern cities. VivaCell-MTS, more than operator! ìÇí³ê»É-Øîê. ³í»ÉÇÝ ù³Ý ûå»ñ³ïáñ: Ralph Yirikian è³Éý ÚÇñÇÏÛ³Ý General Manager ¶É˳íáñ ïÝûñ»Ý VivaCell-MTS ԱԺՃՌ ԲԻՄՍ ԳԼՅՎ ԴԽՆՏ ԵԾՇՐ ԶԿՈՑ ԷՀՉՒ ԸՁՊՓ ԹՂՋՔ ՕՖ ՎԱՐԴԱԳՈՒՅՆ ՔԱՂԱՔ / PINK CITY 7

ՄՇԱԿՈՒՅԹԻ ՔԱՂԱՔ / CULTURAL CITY 59

ԲԵՐԴԱՔԱՂԱՔ / FORTRESS CITY 107 Photo © Arvin Zarookian Photo © ºՐԵՎԱՆ ºՐԵՎԱՆ Y E R E V A N Photo © David Avdalyan Photo © David §ºñ·áÕ ß³ïñí³ÝÝ»ñ¦, гÝñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý Ññ³å³ñ³Ï / “Singing Fountains” in Republic Square. Photo © Arsen Safaryan Photo ©

ՎԱՐԴԱԳՈՒՅՆ ՔԱՂԱՔ / PINK CITY

ºñ¨³ÝÝ ³ß˳ñÑÇ Ñݳ·áõÛÝ ù³Õ³ùÝ»ñÇó Nestled in the northeast part of the Ararat Valley and ¿`ï»Õ³Ï³Ûí³Í ²ñ³ñ³ïÛ³Ý ¹³ßï³í³ÛñÇ ÑÛáõëÇë- fringed by mountains on three sides, Yerevan is one ³ñ¨»ÉÛ³Ý Ù³ëáõÙ ¨ »ñ»ù ÏáÕÙÇó ßñç³å³ïí³Í of the oldest cities in the world. Evidence of human É»éÝ»ñáí: ²Ûë ï³ñ³ÍùáõÙ Ù³ñ¹ÏáõÃÛáõÝÁ settlement in this area dates back to the µÝ³ÏáõÃÛáõÝ ¿ ѳëï³ï»É ¹»é¨ë ÑÇÝ ù³ñ»¹³ñáõÙ Paleolithic Era (around 100,000-30,000 years ago). (100000-30000 ï³ñÇ ³é³ç): ø³Õ³ùÁ ÑÇÙݳ¹ñí»É The city was established in 782 BC, when the ¿ ù.³. 782Ã., »ñµ àõñ³ñïáõÇ Ã³·³íáñ ²ñ·ÇßïÇ I-Ç Erebuni fortress was built by the order of the Urartian Ññ³Ù³Ýáí ϳéáõóí»ó ¾ñ»µáõÝÇ ³ÙñáóÁ: Ü»ñϳÛÇë King, Argishti I. The current capital and the pride of Ù³Ûñ³ù³Õ³ù ¨ ѳۻñÇ Ñå³ñïáõÃÛáõÝ ºñ¨³ÝÁ, Armenia, Yerevan is actually the thirteenth in a long ï³ëÝ»ñ»ù»ñáñ¹Ý ¿ ѳÛÏ³Ï³Ý ÑݳÙÛ³ áõ and legendary line of Armenian capitals. ³é³ëå»É³Ï³Ý Ù³Ûñ³ù³Õ³ùÝ»ñÇ ß³ñùáõÙ: There are many theories regarding the origin of the ´³½Ù³ÃÇí ï»ëáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñ ϳݪ ϳåí³Í ºñ¨³Ý name Yerevan and it has been known throughout the ³Ýí³Ý ͳ·Ù³Ý Ñ»ï: úï³ñ»ñÏñÛ³ centuries as Irivan, Irevan, Irvan and Erivan. ׳ݳå³ñÑáñ¹Ý»ñÇ ¨ áõëáõÙݳëÇñáÕÝ»ñÇ According to one of the more popular theories, “Eri” ³ß˳ïáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñáõÙ ³ÛÝ ÑÇß³ï³ÏíáõÙ ¿ ¾ñÇí³Ý, refers to the Ari tribe and “avan” is a variation of the

9 ºՐԵՎԱՆ Photo © Arvin Zarookian ¼µáë³Ýù ÎáÙëáÙáÉÇ ³Ýí³Ý ½µáë³Û·áõÙ, 1952Ã. / Rowing in the man-made lake at Komsomol Park, 1952. úճϳӨ ½µáë³Û·áõÙ / A walk in Oghakadzev (Circle) Park. Photo © Anna Davtyan Photo ©

Æñí³Ý, Æñ³í³Ý ¨ ³ÛÉ Ó¨»ñáí, ÇëÏ Ñ³Û Urartian suffix –ebani, which means land. So many Ù³ï»Ý³·ñáõÃÛ³Ý Ù»ç ºñ¨³ÝÁ ÑÇß³ï³ÏíáõÙ ¿ believe that Yerevan means “ the land of the Ari”. ºñ»õ³Ý, ¾ñí³Ý, ¾ñáõ³Ý, ²ñ»õ³Ý ¨ ³ÛÉ Ó¨»ñáí: гٳӳÛÝ ³Ù»Ý³Ñ³ÛïÝÇ ï»ëáõÃÛ³Ý, §¾ñǦ µ³éÁ Between the 6th and 4th centuries BC, Yerevan was í»ñ³·ñíáõÙ ¿ ²ñÇ Ï³Ù ¿ñÇ ó»ÕÇÝ, ÇëÏ §³í³Ý¦-Á one of the centers of Achaemenid Persia. There is áõñ³ñï³Ï³Ý §¿µ³ÝǦ í»ñç³Í³ÝóÇ ï³ñµ»ñ³Ï ¿` little historical data about Yere van from the 4th »ñÏÇñ ÇÙ³ëïáí, ³ÛëåÇëáí ºñ¨³Ý Ý߳ݳÏáõÙ ¿ century BC to the 3rd century AD. Many historians ²ñÇ ó»ÕÇ »ñÏÇñ: believe that in the 5th century AD, Yerevan was an important outpost of Armenia. The first church in ø.³. 6-4-ñ¹ ¹³ñ»ñáõÙ ºñ¨³ÝÁ ²ù»Ù»ÝÛ³Ý Yerevan, the Church of St. Peter and Paul, was built ä³ñëϳëï³ÝÇ ë³ïñ³åáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÇó Ù»ÏÇ in the 5th century. It was restored several times and Ï»ÝïñáÝÝ ¿ñ: øÇã å³ïÙ³Ï³Ý ïíÛ³ÉÝ»ñ »Ý remained standing until 1931, when the Soviets å³Ñå³Ýí»É ºñ¨³ÝÇ Ù³ëÇÝ ù.³. 4-ñ¹ ¹³ñÇó ÙÇÝ㨠demolished it and built the Moscow Cinema ù.Ñ. 3-ñ¹ ¹³ñÁ: Þ³ï å³ïÙ³µ³ÝÝ»ñ ϳñÍáõÙ »Ý, Complex in its place. áñ ù.Ñ. 5-ñ¹ ¹³ñáõÙ, ºñ¨³ÝÁ г۳ëï³ÝÇ Ñ³Ù³ñ ϳñ¨áñ áõÕ»Ï³É ¿ñ ѳݹÇë³ÝáõÙ: In 658 AD, at the height of Arab invasions, Yerevan was conquered. The city became strategically impor-

YEREVAN 12 ²Ù³ÝáñÁ È»ÝÇÝÇ Ññ³å³ñ³ÏáõÙ, 1949Ã. / New Year’s festivities in Lenin Square, 1949.

5-ñ¹ ¹³ñáõ٠ϳéáõóí»É ¿ ºñ¨³ÝÇ ³é³çÇÝ tant as a crossroads for the caravan routes passing êµ.äáÕáë-ä»ïñáë »Ï»Õ»óÇÝ, áñÁ í»ñ³Ï³éáõóí»É ¿ between Europe and India. Later, between the 9th ÙÇ ù³ÝÇ ³Ý·³Ù ¨ ϳݷáõÝ Ùݳó»É ÙÇÝ㨠1931Ã., and 11th centuries, Yerevan was a secure part of the áñÇó Ñ»ïá ù³Ý¹í»É ¿ ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ Çß˳ÝáõÃÛ³Ý Armenian Bagratuni Kingdom, enjoying two ÏáÕÙÇó, ÇëÏ ¹ñ³ ï»Õáõ٠ϳéáõóí»É ¿ ØáëÏí³ centuries of self-rule before being overrun by Seljuk ÏÇÝáóïñáÝÁ: Turks. In the 13th century, under the Zakarian Dynasty, Yerevan became a major Armenian center ø.Ñ. 658Ã. ³ñ³µ³Ï³Ý ³ñß³í³ÝùÝ»ñÇ Å³Ù³Ý³Ï for craftsmanship, and in the 15th century, it became ºñ¨³ÝÁ Ýí³×í»ó: ø³Õ³ùÁ ¹³ñÓ³í ϳñ¨áñ the administrative center of Ararat province. é³½Ù³í³ñ³Ï³Ý ˳ãÙ»ñáõÏ ºíñáå³ÛÇó ¹»åÇ Ðݹϳëï³Ý ׳ݳå³ñÑÇÝ: ²í»ÉÇ áõߪ 9-11-ñ¹ In the 16th century, due to its strategic significance, ¹³ñ»ñáõÙ, ºñ¨³ÝÁ ѳÛÏ³Ï³Ý ´³·ñ³ïáõÝÛ³ó Yerevan was constantly fought over and passed ó·³íáñáõÃÛ³Ý ³å³Ñáí ѳïí³ÍÝ ¿ñ: ØÇÝ㨠back and forth between the Persian Safavid and the ë»ÉçáõÏ- Ãáõñù»ñÇ ³ñß³í³ÝùÁ ³ÛÝ »ñÏáõ ¹³ñ Ottoman Empires. At the height of the Turkish-Per- ϳé³í³ñí»ó Ë³Õ³Õ ¨ ÇÝùݳí³ñ: 13-ñ¹ ¹³ñáõÙ, sian wars, the city changed hands fourteen times. ¼³ù³ñÛ³ÝÝ»ñÇ Çß˳ÝáõÃÛ³Ý ûñáù, ºñ¨³ÝÁ Tens of thousands of Armenians, including residents ÙÇçݳ¹³ñÛ³Ý Ð³Û³ëï³ÝÇ ù³Õ³ùÝ»ñÇó Ù»ÏÝ ¿ñ, of Yerevan, were deported to Persia in 1604 under áñï»Õ ½³ñ·³ÝáõÙ ¿ñ ³ñÑ»ëï³·áñÍáõÃÛáõÝÁ: 13 ºՐԵՎԱՆ Photo © Karen Mirzoyan

²Ù³ÝáñÁ гÝñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý Ññ³å³ñ³ÏáõÙ, 2008Ã. / New Year’s festivities in Republic Square, 2008. гÝñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý Ññ³å³ñ³ÏÁ ºñ¨³ÝÇ ëñïáõÙ ¿, áñÇ Ñ³ï³Ï³·ÇÍÁ ³ٳÝÛ³ÝÇ ·ÉáõË·áñÍáóÝ ¿: Photo © Hakop §ê³Ý¹áõÕù¦, γëϳ¹ / “Stairs”, at the Cascade. Photo © Arsen Safaryan Photo ©

16-ñ¹ ¹³ñÇó ëÏë³Í, Çñ ϳñ¨áñ é³½Ù³í³ñ³Ï³Ý the order of Shah Abbas I. As a consequence, ¹ÇñùÇ å³ï׳éáí, ºñ¨³ÝÁ Ïéí³ËÝÓáñ ¿ñ ¹³ñÓ»É Yerevan underwent a major demographic shift. ê»ýÛ³Ý ä³ñëϳëï³ÝÇ ¨ úëÙ³ÝÛ³Ý Ï³ÛëñáõÃÛ³Ý The historic Armenian city now had a growing ÙÇç¨: Âáõñù-å³ñëÏ³Ï³Ý å³ï»ñ³½ÙÝ»ñÇ Muslim population. Still, the Armenians of Yerevan ßñç³ÝáõÙ ù³Õ³ùÁ 14 ³Ý·³Ù Ó»éùÇó Ó»éù ³Ýó³í: and the surrounding area dominated various î³ëÝÛ³Ï Ñ³½³ñ³íáñ ѳۻñ, ÇÝãå»ë ݳ¨ ºñ¨³ÝÇ professions and trade, and were thus of great µÝ³ÏÇãÝ»ñÁ Þ³Ñ ²µ³ë I-Ç Ññ³Ù³Ýáí 1604Ã. economic significance to the Persian Empire. ï³ñѳÝí»óÇÝ ä³ñëϳëï³Ý: ²ñ¹ÛáõÝùáõÙ ºñ¨³ÝÇ ÅáÕáíñ¹³·ñ³Ï³Ý å³ïÏ»ñÁ Éáõñç Yerevan was captured by the Russians and the ÷á÷áËáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñ Ïñ»ó: ä³ïÙ³Ï³Ý Ñ³ÛÏ³Ï³Ý Armenian Militia in 1827 and in the following year, ù³Õ³ùÝ ³ÛÅÙ ³×áÕ Ù³ÑÙ»¹³Ï³Ý µÝ³ÏãáõÃÛáõÝ under the Treaty of Turkmenchai, all of Eastern áõÝ»ñ: ºñ¨³ÝÇ ¨ ѳñ³ÏÇó ßñç³ÝÝ»ñÇ Ñ³Û»ñÁ, Armenia was incorporated into the Russian Empire. µ³½Ù³ÃÇí ³ñÑ»ëïÝ»ñÇ ¿ÇÝ ïÇñ³å»ïáõÙ ¨ One of the conditions of the treaty was to allow ½µ³ÕíáõÙ ¿ÇÝ ³é¨ïñáí, ÇÝãÁ ä³ñëÇó Armenians to repatriate from Persia. Over 40,000 ϳÛëñáõÃÛ³Ý Ñ³Ù³ñ ÑëÏ³Û³Ï³Ý ïÝï»ë³Ï³Ý Armenians resettled in the course of the next few ϳñ¨áñáõÃÛáõÝ ¿ñ Ý»ñϳ۳óÝáõÙ: years.

17 ºՐԵՎԱՆ Photo ©

γëϳ¹ / The Cascade. Photo © Anna Davtyan Photo ©

гÕóݳÏÇ ½µáë³Û·áõÙ / Midway at Victory Park. §îÕ³Ù³ñ¹ÇϦ ѳí»ñųó³Ý / “The Men”, Immortalized. Photo © Anna Davtyan Photo ©

1827Ã. ºñ¨³ÝÁ éáõë³Ï³Ý ½áñù»ñÁ ·ñ³í»ó ÏáÕÙÇó Following the collapse of the Russian Empire, ¨ 1828Ã. ÂáõñùÙ»Ýã³ÛÇ å³Ûٳݳ·ñáí Ùdzóí»ó Armenia achieved its independence on May 28, èáõë³Ï³Ý ϳÛëñáõÃÛ³ÝÁ: ä³Ûٳݳ·ñÇ 1918. Yerevan became the capital of the newly- ѳٳӳÛÝ, ѳۻñÇÝ ÃáõÛɳïñíáõÙ ¿ñ í»ñ³¹³éÝ³É formed Democratic Republic of Armenia. ѳÛñ»ÝÇù: ºí ßáõñç 40000 ѳۻñ Independence, however, was short-lived. With a í»ñ³µÝ³Ï»óí»óÇÝ Ñ³çáñ¹ ï³ñÇÝ»ñÇ ÁÝóóùáõÙ: deluge of refugees arriving from Eastern Turkey fleeing the Armenian Genocide, homelessness and èáõë³Ï³Ý ϳÛëñáõÃÛ³Ý ÷Éáõ½Ù³ÝÁ ѳçáñ¹»ó disease were rampant. The fledgling new г۳ëï³ÝÇ 1918Ã. Ù³ÛÇëÇ 28-Ç ³ÝϳËáõÃÛáõÝÁ: government had a major crisis on its hands and did ºñ¨³ÝÁ ¹³ñÓ³í Ýáñ³ëï»ÕÍ Ð³Û³ëï³ÝÇ not have the resources or the infrastructure to cope ÄáÕáíñ¹³í³ñ³Ï³Ý гÝñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý with it. The Bolshevik Red Army occupied Yerevan Ù³Ûñ³ù³Õ³ù: during the Russian Civil War and on November 29, ²ÝϳËáõÃÛáõÝÁ, ë³Ï³ÛÝ, ϳñ× ÏÛ³Ýù áõÝ»ó³í: 1920, the city inevitably fell to the Soviets. êÏëí»ó гÛáÕ ó»Õ³ëå³ÝáõÃÛáõÝÇó Ù³½³åáõñÍ ÷³Ëëï³Ï³ÝÝ»ñÇ Ý»ñÑáëùÁ ²ñ¨»ÉÛ³Ý Over the next few decades, Yerevan would grow to ÂáõñùdzÛÇó, ³Ýûè³ÝáõÃÛáõÝÝ áõ become a modern capital with a strong infrastruc- ѳٳ׳ñ³ÏÝ»ñÁ ïÇñ»óÇÝ »ñÏÇñÁ: г۳ëï³ÝÇ tural and industrial base. Abovyan Street (formerly гÝñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý Ýáñ³ëï»ÕÍ Çß˳ÝáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÁ Astafyan), one of the oldest streets in Yerevan, YEREVAN 201 ³ٳÝÛ³ÝÇ ÇÝùݳïÇå ݳ˳·Íáí ϳéáõóí³Í ÐÛáõëÇë³ÛÇÝ åáÕáï³Ý ÙdzóÝáõÙ ¿ ù³Õ³ùÇ »ñÏáõ ϳñ¨áñ³·áõÛÝ Ï»ï»ñÁª úå»ñ³ն¨ гÝñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý Ññ³å³ñ³ÏÝ»ñÁ: Northern Avenue, part of Tamanyan’s original design, connects the city center’s two main focal points - the Opera House and Republic Square. Photo © Arsen Safaryan Photo © Photo © Anna Davtyan §ê¨³Ý¦ ÑÛáõñ³ÝáóÁ Þ³ÑáõÙÛ³Ý ÷áÕáóáõÙ, 1939Ã. / Sevan Hotel on Shahumyan Street, 1939.

ãáõÝ»ÇÝ Ñ³Ù³å³ï³ëË³Ý ÙÇçáóÝ»ñ came to be known as the city’s artistic and intellectual ·³ÕóϳÝáõÃÛ³Ý ËݹÇñÝ»ñÁ ÉáõÍ»Éáõ ѳٳñ: center. Some of the greatest Armenian philosophers, èáõë³ëï³ÝÇ ù³Õ³óÇ³Ï³Ý å³ï»ñ³½ÙÇ scientists, artists and writers, such as the immortal ÁÝóóùáõÙ µáÉߨÇÏÛ³Ý Î³ñÙÇñ µ³Ý³ÏÁ 1920Ã. poets Paruyr Sevak, Hovhannes Shiraz and Silva ÝáÛ»Ùµ»ñÇÇ 29-ÇÝ Ùï³í ºñ¨³Ý, ¨ ³ñ¹ÛáõÝùáõÙ Kaputikyan, would spend hours in the local haunts of г۳ëï³ÝÝ ³ÝËáõë³÷»ÉÇáñ»Ý ѳÛïÝí»ó Astafyan Street discussing, debating and creating. ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ ØÇáõÃÛ³Ý Ï³½ÙáõÙ: In the 1940s, as part of a national plan to increase the лﳷ³ ï³ëݳÙÛ³ÏÝ»ñÇ ÁÝóóùáõÙ ºñ¨³ÝÁ Armenian population, Yerevan saw a large influx of ³×»óª ¹³éݳÉáí ѽáñ »Ýóϳéáõóí³ÍùÝ»ñáí áõ Armenians from Anatolia and neighbouring countries. ³ñ¹Ûáõݳµ»ñ³Ï³Ý µ³½³Ûáí ųٳݳϳÏÇó Many of Yerevan’s new districts were named after the Ù³Ûñ³ù³Õ³ù: Western Armenian cities from which people had fled, ²µáíÛ³Ý ÷áÕáóÁ (ݳËÏÇݪ ²ëï³ýÛ³Ý) ѳÛïÝÇ such as Nor (New) Sebastia and Nor Kilikia. Several ¹³ñÓ³í áñå»ë ù³Õ³ùÇ Ùß³ÏáõóÛÇÝ ¨ notable Armenians settled in Yerevan during this Ùï³íáñ³Ï³Ý Ï»ÝïñáÝ: ²ÛÝåÇëÇ Ñ³Û Ùï³ÍáÕÝ»ñ, period and even earlier. Writer Zabel Yessayan left her ·ÇïݳϳÝÝ»ñ, ³ñí»ëï³·»ïÝ»ñ ¨ ·ñáÕÝ»ñ, comfortable life in Paris moving to Soviet Armenia in ÇÝãåÇëÇù »Ý ³ÝÙ³Ñ µ³Ý³ëï»ÕÍÝ»ñ ä³ñáõÛñ 1933. Composer Tigran Mansurian moved to Yerevan ꨳÏÁ, ÐáíѳÝÝ»ë ÞÇñ³½Á ¨ êÇÉí³ YEREVAN 24 ºñ¨³ÝóÇÝ»ñÇ ÁÝï³ÝÇù, í³Õ 20-ñ¹ ¹³ñ / A family in Yerevan in traditional clothing, early 20th century.

γåáõïÇÏÛ³ÝÁ ùÝݳñÏáõÙÝ»ñáí, µ³Ý³í»×»ñáí áõ from Beirut in 1947 and opera singer Gohar Ùï³ÑÕ³óáõÙÝ»ñáí ÉÇ Å³Ù»ñ ¿ÇÝ ³ÝóϳóÝáõÙ Gasparyan came from Cairo in 1948. ²ëï³ýÛ³Ý ÷áÕáóÇ ëñ׳ñ³ÝÝ»ñáõÙ: Sports flourished in Yerevan during the Soviet era. 1940-³Ï³Ý Ãí³Ï³ÝÝ»ñÇÝ Ñ³ÛÏ³Ï³Ý In 1973, the city’s Ararat football team won the ³½·³µÝ³ÏãáõÃÛ³Ý ÃÇíÝ ³í»É³óÝ»Éáõ ³½·³ÛÇÝ Soviet championship, filling the entire country with a Íñ³·ñáí, ²Ý³ïáÉdzÛÇ ¨ ѳñ¨³Ý »ñÏñÝ»ñÇ sense of pride. Chess was, and still is, a highly ѳۻñÇ Ù»Í Ý»ñÑáëù ï»ÕÇ áõÝ»ó³í ºñ¨³Ý: regarded sport in Armenia. Over the decades, ø³Õ³ùÇ ß³ï ÷áÕáóÝ»ñ, ÇÝãåÇëÇù »Ý Üáñ Armenia has produced several champions and 껵³ëïÇ³Ý ¨ Üáñ ÎÇÉÇÏdzÝ, ³Ýí³Ýí»óÇÝ Armenian chess players are recognized as some of ²ñ¨ÙïÛ³Ý Ð³Û³ëï³ÝÇ ³ÛÝ ù³Õ³ùÝ»ñÇ the best in the world. Chess tournaments are often ³ÝáõÝÝ»ñáí, áñï»ÕÇó ·³ÕÃ»É ¿ÇÝ Ýáñ»ÏÝ»ñÁ: organized and hosted in Yerevan. ²Ûë ßñç³ÝáõÙ ß³ï ³Ï³Ý³íáñ ѳۻñ µÝ³ÏáõÃÛáõÝ Ñ³ëï³ï»óÇÝ ºñ¨³ÝáõÙ: ¶ñáÕ ¼³å»É ºë³Û³ÝÁ As the administrative center of Armenia, Yerevan has 1933Ã. Éù»ó Çñ ѳñÙ³ñ³í»ï ÏÛ³ÝùÁ ö³ñǽáõÙ` always been at the forefront of political movements. ï»Õ³÷áËí»Éáí êáí»ï³Ï³Ý г۳ëï³Ý: In 1965, during the commemoration of the 50th ÎáÙåá½Çïáñ îÇ·ñ³Ý سÝëáõñÛ³ÝÁ 1947Ã. anniversary of the Armenian Genocide, a 24-hour ´»ÛñáõÃÇó ï»Õ³÷áËí»ó ºñ¨³Ý, ÇëÏ 1948Ã. 25 ºՐԵՎԱՆ

ø. ³. 782Ã., ²ñ·ÇßïÇ I ó·³íáñÇ ûñáù, áõñ³ñï³óÇÝ»ñÁ ϳéáõó»óÇÝ ¾ñ»µáõÝÇ ³ÙñáóÁ ѳٳÝáõÝ µÉñÇ íñ³: Photo © Arsineh Khachikian ¾ñ»µáõÝÇ ³ÙñáóÇ áñÙݳÝϳñÝ»ñÇó / Wall paintings inside Erebuni Fortress. Photo © Arsineh Khachikian Photo ©

Էրեբունի ամրոց Erebuni Fortress ì³Ý³ É×Ç ï³ñ³ÍùáõÙ ï»Õ³Ï³Ûí³Í àõñ³ñï³Ï³Ý The Urartian kingdom, centered on Lake Van, ó·³íáñáõÃÛáõÝÁ ºñ¨³ÝÇ Ý³Ë³ÑÇÙùÁ ѳݹÇë³ó³í: gave Yerevan its first major impetus. In 782 BC, ø.³. 782Ã. ²ñ·ÇßïÇ I ó·³íáñÇ Ï³é³í³ñÙ³Ý ûñáù under the order of King Argishti I, the Urartians áõñ³ñï³óÇÝ»ñÁ ϳéáõó»óÇÝ ¾ñ»µáõÝÇ ³ÙñáóÁ built the fortress of Erebuni on a hill by the same ѳٳÝáõÝ µÉñÇ íñ³, áñÇ íñ³ Ý»ñϳÛÇë ѳñ³í- name, in what is today southeast Yerevan. ³ñ¨ÙïÛ³Ý ºñ¨³ÝÝ ¿: ²ÙñáóÇ ·É˳íáñ ¹³ñå³ëÝ»ñÇ A cuneiform inscription discovered by the citadel’s Ùáï ѳÛïݳµ»ñí³Í ë»å³·Çñ ³ñӳݳ·ñáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñáõÙ main gate reads: “By the greatness of the god ÝßíáõÙ ¿. §Ê³É¹Ç ³ëïÍáõ Ù»ÍáõÃÛ³Ùµ, ²ñ·ÇßïÇÝ` Khaldi, Argishti son of Menua built this great Ø»Ýáõ³ÛÇ áñ¹ÇÝ, ³ëáõÙ ¿. ³Ûë ѽáñ ³ÙñáóÁ ϳéáõó»óÇ, fortress and named it Erebuni, to the power of ë³ÑٳݻóÇ, ¾ñ»µáõÝÇ ³ÝáõÝÁ, ´Ç³ÇÝÇÉÇ »ñÏñÇ Biainili and the terror of its enemies. Argishti says: ѽáñáõÃÛ³Ý Ñ³Ù³ñ, Ç ë³ñë³÷ ÃßÝ³Ù³Ï³Ý »ñÏñÝ»ñÇ: In this wasteland, I undertook great works..." ²ñ·ÇßïÇÝ ³ëáõÙ ¿. ÑáÕÁ ³Ù³ÛÇ ¿ñ, ѽáñ ·áñÍ»ñ »ë ³ÛÝï»Õ ϳï³ñ»óÇ Ê³É¹Ç ³ëïÍá Ù»ÍáõÃÛ³Ùµ…¦ Excavations on the site began in 1950 and in October 1968, on the 2750th anniversary of ²Ûë ßñç³ÝáõÙ å»ÕáõÙÝ»ñÁ ëÏëí»É »Ý 1950Ã., ÇëÏ 1968Ã. Erebuni-Yerevan’s foundation, the Erebuni ÑáÏï»Ùµ»ñÇÝ, ¾ñ»µáõÝÇ-ºñ¨³ÝÇ 2750-³ÙÛ³ÏÇ ³éÃÇí Museum was built on the base of the citadel. ³ÙñáóÇ ÑÇÙùÇ íñ³ ϳéáõóí»ó ¾ñ»µáõÝÇ Ã³Ý·³ñ³ÝÁ: It houses many precious findings dating back to ²ÛÝï»Õ ï»Õ »Ý ·ï»É ù.³. 8-ñ¹ ¹³ñÇÝ Ãí³·ñíáÕ the 8th century BC, including examples of the µ³½Ù³ÃÇí ·ï³ÍáÝ»ñ, ³Û¹ ÃíáõÙ áõñ³ñï³Ï³Ý ѳÛïÝÇ Urartians’ splendid metalwork. Ù»ï³Õ³ÓáõÛÉ Çñ»ñÁ:

29 ºՐԵՎԱՆ Ê³É¹Ç ³ëïÍáõ ï³×³ñÇ í»ñ³ñï³¹ñáõÃÛáõÝÁ / One interpretation of what Khaldi Temple may have looked like. Photo © Arsineh Khachikian Photo ©

YEREVAN 30 гÛÏ Ü³Ñ³å»ïÇ ù³Ý¹³ÏÁ. Áëï ³í³Ý¹³å³ïáõÙÇ Ý³ ÜáÛÇ ÃáéÇ ÍáéÝ ¿ñ ¨ Ñ³Û ÅáÕáíñ¹Ç ÑÇÙݳ¹ÇñÁ: Statue of Hayk, who according to legend, was the great-great- grandson of Noah and the founder of the Armenian nation. Photo © Arsineh Khachikian Photo ©

Yerevan’s city plan was designed in the 1920s by Alexander Tamanyan, who incor- porated traditional Armenian architecture with contemporary urban design and construction.

²É. ³ٳÝÛ³ÝÇ ù³Ý¹³ÏÁ γëϳ¹áõÙ / Statue of Alexander Tamanyan in front of the Cascade. Photo © Raffi Niziblian Photo © Raffi

YEREVAN 34 Photo © Arsen Safaryan Photo ©

Ø»ïñáÛÇ Ï³Û³ñ³Ý §Ð³Ýñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý Ññ³å³ñ³Ï¦ / Republic Square Metro Station. гïí³Í úå»ñ³ÛÇ ß»ÝùÇó / The Opera House. Photo © Anna Davtyan Photo ©

ì»ñ³Íí»Éáí ųٳݳϳÏÇó Becoming a Modern Capital Ù³Ûñ³ù³Õ³ùÇ The Soviet era transformed Yerevan into a modern city with a strong industrial base, public ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ ßñç³ÝáõÙ ºñ¨³ÝÁ ¹³ñÓ³í ѽáñ transportation (including trolley buses and a metro ³ñ¹Ûáõݳµ»ñ³Ï³Ý ÑÇÙù»ñáí, ѳë³ñ³Ï³Ï³Ý system), prestigious educational institutions and a ïñ³Ýëåáñïáí, Ù»ïñáÛáí, Ñ»ÕÇݳϳíáñ ÏñÃ³Ï³Ý thriving cultural life. ѳëï³ïáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñáí áõ ͳÕÏáõÝ Ùß³ÏáõÛÃáí ųٳݳϳÏÇó ù³Õ³ù: The city’s new infrastructural design was developed in the 1920s by the prominent Armenian ø³Õ³ùÇ Ýáñ »Ýóϳéáõóí³ÍùÁ ½³ñ·³ó³í architect, Alexander Tamanyan, who incorporated 1920-³Ï³Ý Ãí³Ï³ÝÝ»ñÇÝ: гÛïÝÇ ×³ñï³ñ³å»ï traditional Armenian arc hitecture with ²É»ùë³Ý¹ñ ³ٳÝÛ³ÝÁ ëï»ÕÍ»ó ù³Õ³ùÇ Ýáñ contemporary urban design and construction. ѳï³Ï³·ÇÍÁ, áñï»Õ ÙdzÓáõÉí»óÇÝ ³í³Ý¹³Ï³Ý His idea for the layout of the city was to have a ѳÛÏ³Ï³Ý ×³ñï³ñ³å»ï³Ï³Ý áõ ųٳݳϳÏÇó radial-circular arrangement of streets that overlaid ù³Õ³ù³ßÇÝ³Ï³Ý á×»ñÁ: ø³Õ³ùÇ Ñ³ï³Ï³·ÍÇ Ñ»ï the existing grid. During this period, pink tuff stone ϳåí³Í Ýñ³ ·³Õ³÷³ñÁ ϳ۳ÝáõÙ ¿ñ ÷áÕáóÝ»ñÇ, was commonly used for construction, earning ³ñ¹»Ý ·áÛáõÃÛáõÝ áõÝ»óáÕ, ßñç³Ý³Ó¨ Yerevan the nickname, Pink City. ¹³ë³íáñí³ÍáõÃÛ³Ý Ù»ç: ²Ûë ųٳݳϳѳïí³ÍáõÙ í³ñ¹³·áõÛÝ ïáõýÁ ɳÛÝáñ»Ý ÏÇñ³éíáõÙ ¿ñ Over the next few decades, Yerevan’s ßÇݳñ³ñáõÃÛ³Ý Ù»çª ßÝáñÑ»Éáí ºñ¨³ÝÇÝ ì³ñ¹³·áõÛÝ infrastructure would grow to include Republic ù³Õ³ù ïÇïÕáëÁ: Square, the Opera House (th e hallmarks of Tamanyan’s legacy), theaters, hotels, social hubs лﳷ³ ï³ë³ÙÛ³ÏÝ»ñÇÝ ºñ¨³ÝÁ ß³ñáõݳϻó ³×»É. and sports complexes such as the Hamalir, which ϳéáõóí»óÇÝ Ð³Ýñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý Ññ³å³ñ³ÏÁ, has recently been revitalized with modern úå»ñ³ÛÇ ïáõÝÁ, óïñáÝÝ»ñ, ÑÛáõñ³ÝáóÝ»ñ, additions. ëáóÇ³É³Ï³Ý Ï»ÝïñáÝÝ»ñ, ëåáñï³ÛÇÝ Ñ³Ù³ÉÇñÝ»ñ, ÇÝãåÇëÇÝ Ø³ñ½³Ñ³Ù»ñ·³ÛÇÝ Ñ³Ù³ÉÇñÝ ¿, áñÁ í»ñç»ñë ¿ í»ñ³Ýáñá·í»É ųٳݳϳÏÇó á×áí:

YEREVAN 36

The Sport and Concert Complex (Hamalir) has recently been revitalized with modern additions. Photo © Raffi Niziblian Photo © Raffi úå»ñ³ÛÇ åáõñ³ÏáõÙ,1962Ã. / Opera Square, 1962.

γÑÇñ»Çó ï»Õ³÷áËí»ó ûå»ñ³ÛÇÝ »ñ·ãáõÑÇ mass protest was held in Freedom Square, in front of ¶áѳñ ¶³ëå³ñÛ³ÝÁ: the Opera House to demand recognition of the Genocide by Soviet authorities. This was the first ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ Å³Ù³Ý³Ï³ßñç³Ýáõ٠г۳ëï³ÝáõÙ large-scale demonstration of its kind to take place in í»ñ»Éù ¿ñ ³åñáõÙ ëåáñïÁ: 1973Ã. §²ñ³ñ³ï¦ the Soviet Union. ýáõïµáɳÛÇÝ ÃÇÙÁ ¹³ñÓ³í ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ ³é³çÝáõÃÛ³Ý ã»ÙåÇáÝ, ÇÝãáí Ñå³ñï³ÝáõÙ ¿ñ áÕç Yerevan played a key role in the Armenian National »ñÏÇñÁ: Þ³ËÙ³ïÁ áñå»ë ëåáñï³Ó¨ ÙÇßï µ³ñÓñ Movement that emerged in the 1980s, whose main í³ñϳÝÇß ¿ í³Û»É»É г۳ëï³ÝáõÙ: г۳½·Ç focus was reunification with Nagorno Karabagh. ß³ËÙ³ïÇëïÝ»ñÁ µ³½ÙÇóë Ù»Í Ñ³çáÕáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñ In 1988, nearly one million people gathered in »Ý ³ñӳݳ·ñ»É ³Ûë ëåáñï³Ó¨áõÙ ¨ ³ß˳ñÑáõÙ Freedom Square for a series of demonstrations on É³í³·áõÛÝÝ»ñÇó »Ý ѳٳñíáõÙ: ºñ¨³ÝáõÙ Ñ³×³Ë this issue. »Ý ϳ½Ù³Ï»ñåíáõÙ ¨ ÑÛáõñÁÝϳÉíáõÙ ß³ËÙ³ïÇ ÙÇç³½·³ÛÇÝ Ùñó³ß³ñ»ñ: With the impending collapse of the Soviet Union, Armenia gained its independence on September 21, àñå»ë г۳ëï³ÝÇ í³ñã³Ï³Ý Ï»ÝïñáÝ ºñ¨³ÝÁ 1991 and Yerevan remained the capital of the Ùßï³å»ë »Õ»É ¿ ù³Õ³ù³Ï³Ý ßñÅáõÙÝ»ñÇ Republic of Armenia. After enduring the first few Ï»ÝïñáÝáõÙ: 1965Ã. ѳÛáó Ø»Í ºÕ»éÝÇ 50-³ÙÛ³ÏÇ difficult years of independence, Yerevan is steadily 39 ºՐԵՎԱՆ ´³Ï Üáñ³·ÛáõÕáõÙ, 2008Ã. / Noragyugh, 2008. Photo © Anna Davtyan Photo ©

ϳå³ÏóáõÃÛ³Ùµ 24-ųÙÛ³ ½³Ý·í³Í³ÛÇݵáÕáùÇ While Yerevan is ³Ïódz ϳ½Ù³Ï»ñåí»óúå»ñ³ÛÇ ¨ µ³É»ïÇ Ã³ïñáÝÇ ¹ÇÙ³óª ²½³ïáõÃÛ³Ý Ññ³å³ñ³ÏáõÙ, always bustling with áñáí ÊáñÑñ³¹³ÛÇÝ Æß˳ÝáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÇó activity, its charm lies å³Ñ³ÝçíáõÙ ¿ñ ׳ݳã»É ó»Õ³ëå³ÝáõÃÛáõÝÁ: in the fact that you ê³ Çñ ï»ë³ÏÇ Ù»ç ³é³çÇÝ Ù»Í³Ù³ßï³µ óáõÛóÝ can still sit for hours ¿ñ ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ ØÇáõÃÛáõÝáõÙ: ºñ¨³ÝÁ áñáßÇã ¹»ñ ˳ճó 1980-³Ï³ÝÝ»ñÇÝ at a café, enjoy a cup ëÏǽµ ³é³Í гÛÏ³Ï³Ý Ñ³Ù³½·³ÛÇÝ ß³ñÅÙ³Ý of coffee, and watch Ù»ç, áñÇ ÑÇÙÝ³Ï³Ý Ýå³ï³ÏÁ È»éݳÛÇÝ the world go by. Ô³ñ³µ³ÕÇ í»ñ³ÙdzíáñáõÙÝ ¿ñ г۳ëï³ÝÇÝ: 1988Ã. ·ñ»Ã» Ù»Ï ÙÇÉÇáݳÝáó óáõÛó»ñ ¿ÇÝ Ï³½Ù³Ï»ñåíáõÙ ²½³ïáõÃÛ³Ý Ññ³å³ñ³ÏáõÙ` ϳåí³Í ³Ûë ËݹñÇ Ñ»ï:

ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ ØÇáõÃÛ³Ý ³ÝËáõë³÷»ÉÇ ÷Éáõ½Ù³Ý Ñ»ï Ù»Ïï»Õ, 1991Ã. ë»åï»Ùµ»ñÇ 21-ÇÝ Ð³Û³ëï³ÝÁ Ó»éù µ»ñ»ó ³ÝϳËáõÃÛáõÝ, ÇëÏ YEREVAN 40 Ô³ÝóñÇ ßáõϳÝ, í³Õ 20-ñ¹ ¹³ñ Ghantar, the Old Market of Yerevan, early 20th century. Photo © Vardan Mamikonian Photo © Vardan

ºñ¨³ÝÁ Ùݳó г۳ëï³ÝÇ Ð³Ýñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý moving towards becoming a thriving modern capital Ù³Ûñ³ù³Õ³ù: ²ÝϳËáõÃÛ³Ý ³é³çÇÝ ï³ñÇÝ»ñÇ with a fast-paced urban lifestyle. ËáãݹáïÝ»ñÁ ѳÕóѳñ»Éáõó Ñ»ïá, ºñ¨³ÝÁ íëï³Ñáñ»Ý ³é³ç ¿ ß³ñÅíáõÙ` ¹³éݳÉáí ³ñ³· The city is currently undergoing a major construction ½³ñ·³óáÕ ù³Õ³ù³ÛÇÝ Ï»Ýë³Ï»ñåáí ͳÕÏáõÝ boom. Cranes and concrete at almost every corner ųٳݳϳÏÇó Ù³Ûñ³ù³Õ³ù: are now a regular part of the city’s landscape. This rapid urban development has been cause for Ü»ñϳÛáõÙë ù³Õ³ùáõ٠ٻͳͳí³É ßÇݳñ³ñ³Ï³Ý debate and controversy. Several old buildings are ³ß˳ï³ÝùÝ»ñ »Ý ï³ñíáõÙ: ÎéáõÝÏÝ»ñÝ áõ being demolished to make room for modern »ñϳÃ-µ»ïáÝÝ ³ÛÅÙ ù³Õ³ùÇ ï»ë³ñ³ÝÝ»ñÇ high-rises and among them are some historic 19th å³ñï³¹Çñ Ù³ë »Ý Ï³½ÙáõÙ: ÜÙ³Ý ³ñ³· century structures with unique architectural features. ù³Õ³ù³ÛÇÝ ½³ñ·³óáõÙÁ µ³Ý³í»×»ñÇ áõ This has been met with opposition and criticism from ѳϳëáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÇ ï»ÕÇù ¿ ï³ÉÇë: àñáß ÑÇÝ some residents, and various organizations have put ß»Ýù»ñ, Ý»ñ³éÛ³É 19-ñ¹ ¹³ñÇ ÇÝùݳïÇå a great deal of effort into banning the demolition of ׳ñï³ñ³å»ï³Ï³Ý ϳéáõÛóÝ»ñ, ù³Ý¹íáõÙ »Ý Yerevan’s historic buildings. As part of the new urban ï»Õ µ³ó»Éáõ ųٳݳϳÏÇó µ³ñÓñ³Ñ³ñÏ development plan, Northern Avenue, part of ϳéáõÛóÝ»ñÇÝ: ê³ ùÝݳ¹³ïáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÇ ³éÇà Tamanyan’s original design for the city, was officially ѳݹÇë³ó³í, ÇëÏ áñáß Ï³½Ù³Ï»ñåáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñ Ù»Í 43 ºՐԵՎԱՆ While the recent surge in tourism has given Yerevan a cosmopolitan appeal, it has not stripped the city of its authenticity, its blunt honesty or its lure. Photo © Anna Davtyan Photo © Photo © Arvin Zarookian Photo ©

YEREVAN 44 Photo ©

гÛÏ³Ï³Ý Ý³Ëß»ñ / Armenian motifs. ä³ñëÏ³Ï³Ý Ý³Ëß»ñ / Persian motifs. Photo © Anna Davtyan Photo ©

ç³Ýù»ñ ·áñͳ¹ñ»óÇݪ ºñ¨³ÝÇ å³ïÙ³Ï³Ý inaugurated in November 2007. This wide pedestrian Ý߳ݳÏáõÃÛáõÝ áõÝ»óáÕ ß»Ýù»ñÇ áãÝã³óáõÙÁ avenue connects the city center’s two main focal ϳÝË»Éáõ ϳÝË»Éáõ ѳٳñ: àñå»ë ù³Õ³ù³ÛÇÝ points – the Opera House and Republic Square. ½³ñ·³óÙ³Ý Íñ³·ñÇ Ýáñ Ù³ë, 2007Ã. ÝáÛ»Ùµ»ñÇÝ å³ßïáݳå»ë ߳ѳ·áñÍÙ³Ý Ñ³ÝÓÝí»ó ù³Õ³ùÇ The Opera House was built between 1926 and 1953. óٳÝÛ³Ý³Ï³Ý ÇÝùݳïÇå á×áí ѳï³Ï³·Íí³Í It holds two theatres – the Alexander Spendiaryan ÐÛáõëÇë³ÛÇÝ åáÕáï³Ý: ²Ûë ɳÛݳñÓ³Ï Ñ»ïÇáïÝ National Opera and Ballet Theatre for opera and åáÕáï³Ý ÙdzóÝáõÙ ¿ ù³Õ³ùÇ »ñÏáõ ·É˳íáñ dance performances, and the Aram Khachatryan ѳïí³ÍÝ»ñÁ` úå»ñ³ÛÇ ïáõÝÝ áõ Concert Hall for the philharmonic orchestra. Aside гÝñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý Ññ³å³ñ³ÏÁ: from the building’s striking design and impressive reputation for the performances it houses, the Opera ²É»ùë³Ý¹ñ êå»Ý¹Ç³ñÛ³ÝÇ ³Ýí³Ý úå»ñ³ÛÇ ¨ serves as a meeting place, a leisure hub and one of µ³É»ïÇ ³½·³ÛÇÝ Ã³ïñáÝÇ ß»ÝùÁ ϳéáõóí»É ¿ the city’s most important landmarks. In the warm 1926-1953ÃÃ: ²ÛÝ áõÝÇ »ñÏáõ ѳٻñ·³ëñ³ÑÝ»ñ` summer months, the outdoor cafés around the ݳ˳ï»ëí³Í ýÇÉѳñÙáÝÇÏ Ýí³·ËÙµÇ Opera are filled with lively activity well into the ѳٻñ·Ý»ñÇ ¨ ³ÛÉ Ý»ñϳ۳óáõÙÝ»ñÇ Ñ³Ù³ñ: morning hours. Þ»ÝùÇ ïå³íáñÇã ï»ëùÇó áõ µ³ñÓñ Ñ»ÕÇݳÏáõÃÛ³ÝÇó µ³óÇ, úå»ñ³Ý ݳ¨ YEREVAN 46

Photo © Arsen Safaryan Սանկական երկաթուղի / Children’s Railroad, 1953.

ѳݹÇåáõÙÝ»ñÇ, ѳݷëïÇ ¨ ù³Õ³ùÇ Republic Square is at the heart of Yerevan. ³Ù»Ý³Ý߳ݳíáñ í³Ûñ»ñÇó Ù»ÏÝ ¿: ²Ù³é³ÛÇÝ ï³ù The layout of this square, which we now know ³ÙÇëÝ»ñÇÝ úå»ñ³ÛÇ ßñç³Ï³ÛùÇ µ³óûÃÛ³ covers 3000 year old ruins, is the triumph of ëñ׳ñ³ÝÝ»ñÁ ÉÇ »Ý ³ßËáõÅáõÃÛ³Ùµ ÙÇÝ㨠Tamanyan’s unique design. All of the buildings Éáõë³µ³ó: around the square, including the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the National History Museum, the National гÝñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý Ññ³å³ñ³ÏÁ ºñ¨³ÝÇ ëÇñïÝ ¿: Art Gallery and the Armenia Marriott Hotel, are built Ðñ³å³ñ³ÏÁ, áñÝ ÇÝãå»ë ѳÛïÝÇ ¿ ϳéáõóí»É ¿ in different colours of tuff, Armenia’s national stone. 3000 ï³ñí³ å³ïÙáõÃÛáõÝ áõÝ»óáÕ ³í»ñ³ÏÝ»ñÇ The famous “singing fountains” are in the center of íñ³, ³ٳÝÛ³ÝÇ í³ñå»ïáõÃÛ³Ý ·ÉáõË·áñÍáóÝ ¿: Republic Square. Every night in the summer and fall, Ðñ³å³ñ³ÏÁ »½»ñáÕ µáÉáñ ϳéáõÛóÝ»ñÁ` ²ñï³ùÇÝ the fountains come to life in a synchronized music ·áñÍáó ݳ˳ñ³ñáõÃÛ³Ý, ä³ïÙáõÃÛ³Ý ³½·³ÛÇÝ and light show, drawing large crowds. óݷ³ñ³ÝÇ, ²ñí»ëïÇ ³½·³ÛÇÝ å³ïÏ»ñ³ëñ³ÑÇ ¨ ²ñÙ»Ýdz سñÇáà ÑÛáõñ³ÝáóÇ ß»Ýù»ñÁ ϳéáõóí³Í Along with the construction boom, the city is »Ý ·áõݳíáñ ïáõýáí` г۳ëï³ÝÇ ³½·³ÛÇÝ currently experiencing a cultural revival, with a ù³ñ³ï»ë³Ïáí: гÛïÝÇ »ñ·áÕ ß³ïñí³ÝÝ»ñÁ multitude of plays, concerts, art exhibitions and ÝáõÛÝå»ë гÝñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý Ññ³å³ñ³ÏáõÙ »Ý: festivals taking place year round. ²Ùé³Ý ¨ ³ßÝ³Ý µáÉáñ »ñ»ÏáÝ»ñÇÝ ß³ïñí³ÝÝ»ñÁ 49 ºՐԵՎԱՆ Photo © Arsineh Khachikian Photo ©

ºñ¨³Ý ϳ۳ñ³Ý / Yerevan Train Station. êµ. äáÕáë-ä»ïñáë »Ï»Õ»óáõ ³í»ñ³ÏÝ»ñÁ, 1931Ã., áñï»Õ ѻﳷ³Ûáõ٠ϳéáõóí»ó §ØáëÏí³¦ ÏÇÝáóïñáÝÁ / Demolition site of St. Peter and Paul Church, where Moscow Cinema was later built, 1931.

ϻݹ³Ý³ÝáõÙ »Ý »ñ³Åßï³Ï³Ý ¨ Éáõë³ÛÇÝ ßááõÇ The Golden Apricot International Film Festival, which Ý»ñùá` ѳí³ù»Éáí ÑëÏ³Û³Ï³Ý µ³½ÙáõÃÛáõÝ: debuted in 2004, is held every summer. The festival showcases both mainstream and independent films ػͳͳí³É ßÇݳñ³ñáõÃÛ³Ý Ñ»ï ÙdzëÇÝ, from around the world and is attended by some of ù³Õ³ùÁ Ùß³ÏáõóÛÇÝ í»ñ³ÍÝáõݹ ¿ ³åñáõÙ` the biggest talents in cinema today. µ³½Ù³ÃÇí Ý»ñϳ۳óáõÙÝ»ñáí, ѳٻñ·Ý»ñáí, óáõó³Ñ³Ý¹»ëÝ»ñáí ¨ ï³ñÇÝ µáÉáñ ï»ÕÇ áõÝ»óáÕ The Erebuni-Yerevan Festival is an annual ÷³é³ïáÝ»ñáí: §àëÏ» ÌÇñ³Ý¦ ÙÇç³½·³ÛÇÝ celebration of Yervan’s ancient history during which ÏÇÝá÷³é³ïáÝÁ, áñÝ ³é³çÇÝ ³Ý·³Ù ϳ۳ó³í Republic Square comes to life with concerts and 2004Ã., ϳ½Ù³Ï»ñåíáõÙ ¿ Ûáõñ³ù³ÝãÛáõñ ³Ù³é: festivities. Fête de la Musique is held every summer ö³é³ïáÝÇ ßñç³Ý³ÏÝ»ñáõÙ óáõó³¹ñíáõÙ »Ý in countries around the world including Yerevan. ÇÝãå»ë Ùñó³Ý³Ï³ÛÇÝ, ³ÛÝå»ë ¿É This lively music festival takes place at different ³ñï³ÙñóáõÛóÛÇÝ ýÇÉÙ»ñ` ³ß˳ñÑÇ ï³ñµ»ñ outdoor venues throughout the city center. ͳÛñ»ñÇó: ö³é³ïáÝÇÝ Ù³ëݳÏóáõÙ »Ý ³ß˳ñÑÇ Armenia’s most talented musicians perform, making É³í³·áõÛÝ ³ñí»ëï³·»ïÝ»ñ: for an entire day of non-stop free entertainment. HighFest International Performing Arts Festival, a celebration of all genres of performing arts including

51 ºՐԵՎԱՆ §¶áɹ»Ý ÃÛáõÉÇ÷¦ ÑÛáõñ³ÝáóÁ / Golden Tulip Hotel. Photo © Arsen Safaryan Photo ©

¾ñ»µáõÝÇ-ºñ¨³Ý ÷³é³ïáÝÁ ºñ¨³ÝÇ ÑÇݳíáõñó theater, dance and musical performance, å³ïÙáõÃÛ³Ý ³Ù»Ý³ÙÛ³ ïáݳϳï³ñáõÃÛáõÝÝ ¿, takes place in October. áñÇ ÁÝóóùáõ٠гÝñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý Ññ³å³ñ³ÏÁ ϻݹ³Ý³ÝáõÙ ¿ ѳٻñ·Ý»ñáí áõ ïáÝ³Ï³Ý Though winters are typically quieter in Yerevan, ½í³ñ×áõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñáí: Fete de la Musique every year, the Christmas and New Year’s festivities »ñ³Åßï³Ï³Ý ÷³é³ïáÝÁ Ûáõñ³ù³ÝãÛáõñ ³Ù³é seem to get more and more exuberant. Yerevan’s ϳ½Ù³Ï»ñåíáõÙ ¿ ³ß˳ñÑÇ ï³ñµ»ñ »ñÏñÝ»ñáõÙ, first WinterFest was held in January 2008, warming ÇÝãå»ë ݳ¨ ºñ¨³ÝáõÙ: ²Ûë ³ßËáõÛÅ »ñ³Åßï³Ï³Ý up the city streets with a parade, indoor and outdoor ÷³é³ïáÝÁ ï»ÕÇ ¿ áõÝ»ÝáõÙ µ³ó »ñÏÝùÇ ï³Ï` concerts and other celebrations. ù³Õ³ùÇ ï³ñµ»ñ í³Ûñ»ñáõÙ: ºÉáõÛà »Ý áõÝ»Ýáõ٠г۳ëï³ÝÇ ³Ù»Ý³ï³Õ³Ý¹³íáñ »ñ³ÅÇßïÝ»ñÁ` Festivals and special events keep Yerevan’s cultural ³ÙµáÕç ûñÁ í»ñ³Í»Éáí ³Ý¹³¹³ñ ³Ýí׳ñ life fresh and exciting, but the city’s museums and ½í³ñ׳ÝùÇ: High Fest International Performing Arts galleries are its constant cultural landmarks. Festival ïáݳϳï³ñáõÃÛáõÝÁ, áñÁ Ý»ñϳ۳óÝáõÙ ¿ The city is considered by some to be one large open ³ñí»ëïÇ µáÉáñ ųÝñ»ñÁ` Ý»ñ³éÛ³É Ã³ïñáÝÁ, air museum and is home to over 40 museums and å³ñÁ ¨ »ñ³Åßï³Ï³Ý Ý»ñϳ۳óáõÙÝ»ñÁ, ï»ÕÇ ¿ galleries, celebrating a fascinating history and rich áõÝ»ÝáõÙ ÑáÏï»Ùµ»ñÇÝ: artistic heritage.

YEREVAN 52 âÝ³Û³Í ÓÙ»éÝ»ñÁ ѳñ³µ»ñ³Ï³Ýáñ»Ý ѳݷÇëï The Matenadaran Institute of Ancient Manuscripts is »Ý ºñ¨³ÝáõÙ, ²Ù³ÝáñÇ áõ êáõñµ ÌÝÝ¹Û³Ý one of the most extensive book depositories in the ïáݳϳï³ñáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÁ ï³ñ»óï³ñÇ ³í»ÉÇ world. It houses over 17,500 Armenian and foreign ѳ·»ó³Í »Ý ¹³éÝáõÙ: ²é³çÇÝ §ÒÙ»é³ÛÇÝ manuscripts, illuminated texts and fragments dating ÷³é³ïáÝÁ¦ ï»ÕÇ áõÝ»ó³í 2008Ã. ÑáõÝí³ñÇÝ` as far back as the pre-Christian era. The National Art ë³éݳßáõÝã ÓÙ»éÁ ç»ñÙ³óÝ»Éáí ßù»ñÃÝ»ñáí, ÷³Ï Gallery of Armenia, spanning seven floors, is highly ¨ µ³óûÃÛ³ ѳٻñ·Ý»ñáí áõ ³ÛÉ ÙÇçáó³éáõÙÝ»ñáí: acclaimed for its wealth of paintings and sculptures by world-renowned artists from Armenia and around ö³é³ïáÝÝ»ñÝ áõ ÙÇçáó³éáõÙÝ»ñÁ óñÙ³óÝáõÙ the world. A favourite among Yerevan’s museums is áõ ³ÏïÇí³óÝáõÙ »Ý ºñ¨³ÝÇ Ùß³ÏáõóÛÇÝ ÏÛ³ÝùÁ, the Parajanov Museum, which displays the ë³Ï³ÛÝ ù³Õ³ùÇ å³ïÏ»ñ³ëñ³ÑÝ»ñÝ áõ paintings, collages and films of world-renowned óݷ³ñ³ÝÝ»ñÁ Ýñ³ Ùßï³Ï³Ý Ùß³ÏáõóÛÇÝ cinematographer, Sergey Parajanov. ³ñÅ»ùÝ»ñÝ »Ý: Þ³ï»ñÇ Ï³ñÍÇùáí ù³Õ³ùÁ ÑÇß»óÝáõÙ ¿ óݷ³ñ³Ý µ³ó »ñÏÝùÇ ï³Ï ¨ Musicians from around the country come to Yerevan ûè³ÝáõÙ ¿ ³í»ÉÇ ù³Ý 40 å³ïÏ»ñ³ëñ³ÑÝ»ñ áõ to partake in its lively music scene and increasingly, óݷ³ñ³ÝÝ»ñ` ïáÝ»Éáí ù³Õ³ùÇ Ññ³ß³·»Õ musicians from the Armenian Diaspora and foreign å³ïÙáõÃÛáõÝÝ áõ ѳñáõëï Ùß³ÏáõóÛÇÝ artists are booking performances in Yerevan, too. ųé³Ý·áõÃÛáõÝÁ: Live music is played at bars and nightclubs every night of the week, ranging from traditional folk, to ÐÇݳíáõñó ӻ鳷ñ»ñÇ ÇÝëïÇïáõï hard rock, to experimental jazz. سï»Ý³¹³ñ³ÝÝ ³Ù»Ý³Ù»Í ·ñ³å³ÑáóÝ ¿ ³ß˳ñÑáõÙ: ²Ûëï»Õ å³ÑíáõÙ »Ý With the rapid growth of the Armenian tourism ݳ˳ùñÇëïáÝ»³Ï³Ý ¹³ñ³ßñç³ÝÇÝ Ãí³·ñíáÕ industry, Yerevan welcomes hundreds of thousands ³í»ÉÇ ù³Ý 17.500 ѳۻñ»Ý ¨ ûï³ñ³É»½áõ of tourists each year. Every weekend, local artists ӻ鳷Çñ Ù³ïÛ³ÝÝ»ñ, ѳïí³ÍÝ»ñ ¨ Ù³Ýñ³Ýϳñ and craftspeople showcase their talents at the ·ñù»ñ: г۳ëï³ÝÇ ëÛáõݳ½³ñ¹ ÛáÃѳñϳÝÇ Vernissage and Painters’ Vernissage outdoor ²½·³ÛÇÝ å³ïÏ»ñ³ëñ³ÑÁ Ù»Í ×³Ý³ãáõÙ ¿ markets. During high season (May-October) the í³Û»ÉáõÙ Çñ ѳٳß˳ñѳÛÇÝ ³ñÅ»ù áõÝ»óáÕ Ñ³Û city’s markets, restaurants and galleries are crowded ¨ ûï³ñ³½·Ç ³ñí»ëï³·»ïÝ»ñÇ Ïï³íÝ»ñÇ áõ with visitors from around the world. While the recent ù³Ý¹³ÏÝ»ñÇ Ñ³ñáõëï ѳí³ù³Íáõáí: surge in tourism has given Yerevan a cosmopolitan ºñ¨³ÝÇ Ñ³ÛïÝÇ Ã³Ý·³ñ³ÝÝ»ñÇó ¿ ö³ñ³ç³ÝáíÇ appeal, it has not stripped the city of its authenticity, óݷ³ñ³ÝÁ, áñï»Õ óáõó³¹ñí³Í »Ý ѳÝñ³Ñ³Ûï its blunt honesty or its lure. ÏÇݻٳïá·ñ³ýÇëï ê»ñ·»Û ö³ñ³ç³ÝáíÇ ÝϳñÝ»ñÁ, ÏáɳÅÝ»ñÝ áõ ýÇÉÙ»ñÁ: There is a fast-paced yet easy-going lifestyle that is characteristic of Yerevan. While the city is always ºñÏñÇ µáÉáñ ÏáÕÙ»ñÇó »ñ³ÅÇßïÝ»ñ »Ý ·³ÉÇë bustling with activity, its charm lies in the fact that ºñ¨³Ýª Ù³ëݳÏó»Éáõ ³ßËáõųóáÕ »ñ³Åßï³Ï³Ý you can still sit for hours at a café, enjoy ÏÛ³ÝùÇÝ: гÛÏ³Ï³Ý ë÷ÛáõéùÇ ¨ ûï³ñ»ñÏñÛ³ a cup of coffee and watch the world go by. »ñ³ÅÇßïÝ»ñÁ ÝáõÛÝå»ë »ÉáõÛÃÝ»ñ »Ý áõÝ»ÝáõÙ ³Ûëï»Õ: ´³ñ»ñáõÙ áõ ·Çß»ñ³ÛÇÝ ³ÏáõٵݻñáõÙ ³Ù»Ý »ñ»Ïá ÑÝãáõÙ ¿ ϻݹ³ÝÇ ³í³Ý¹³Ï³Ý, ³½·³ÛÇÝÇó ÙÇÝ㨠ѳñ¹ éáù ϳ٠¿ùëå»ñÇÙ»Ýï³É ç³½ »ñ³ÅßïáõÃÛáõÝ:

гÛÏ³Ï³Ý ½µáë³ßñçáõÃÛ³Ý ³ñ³· ½³ñ·³óÙ³Ý Ñ»ï ºñ¨³ÝÝ ³Ù»Ý ï³ñÇ ÁݹáõÝáõÙ ¿ ѳñÛáõñ ѳ½³ñ³íáñ ½µáë³ßñçÇÏÝ»ñÇ: Úáõñ³ù³ÝãÛáõñ

53 ºՐԵՎԱՆ The Matenadaran Institute of Ancient Manuscripts is one of the most extensive book depositories in the world, with over 17,500 manuscripts, fragments and illuminated texts. Photo © Arvin Zarookian Photo ©

Ø»ëñáå سßïáóÁ ³ß³Ï»ñï Կորյունի հետ / Mesrop Mashtots with his student, Koryun. Photo © Arvin Zarookian Photo ©

YEREVAN 54 Photo © Raffi Niziblian Photo © Raffi

êµ. ê³ñ·Çë »Ï»Õ»óÇÝ / St. Sarkis Church. ¼áñ³íáñ êµ. ²ëïí³Í³ÍÇÝ »Ï»Õ»óÇÝ / Holy Mother of God Zoravor Church. Photo © Arvin Zarookian Photo ©

ѳݷëïÛ³Ý ûñ ï»Õ³óÇ ³ñí»ëï³·»ïÝ»ñÝ áõ ³ñÑ»ëï³íáñÝ»ñÁ óáõó³¹ñáõÙ »Ý Çñ»Ýó ßÝáñÑÝ»ñÁ ì»ñÝÇë³Å µ³óûÃÛ³ ßáõϳÛáõÙ: Although religion was سÛÇëÇó ÙÇÝ㨠ÑáÏï»Ùµ»ñ ù³Õ³ùÇ ßáõϳݻñÁ, stifled during the é»ëïáñ³ÝÝ»ñÁ ¨ óݷ³ñ³ÝÝ»ñÁ ÉÇ »Ý Soviet era, Yerevan ³Ûó»ÉáõÝ»ñáí ³ÙµáÕç ³ß˳ñÑÇó: now has several âÝ³Û³Í ½µáë³ßñçáõÃÛ³Ý Ù»Í ³ÉÇùÁ ÏáëÙáåáÉÇï ßáõÝã ¿ ѳÕáñ¹»É ºñ¨³ÝÇÝ, ³ÛÝ ãÇ ½³ï»É ù³Õ³ùÁ functioning churches, Çñ ÇÝùÝáõÃÛáõÝÇó, ³ÝÏ»ÕÍáõÃÛáõÝÇó ϳ٠with growing faithful ·ñ³íãáõÃÛáõÝÇó: congregations.

²ñ³· ½³ñ·³óáÕ áõ, ³ÛÝáõ³Ù»Ý³ÛÝÇí, ûè Ï»Ýë³á×Á ѳïáõÏ ¿ ºñ¨³ÝÇÝ: âÝ³Û³Í ù³Õ³ùÁ ÙÇßï ßï³åáõÙ ¿, ³ÛÝ ÑÙ³ÛÇã ¿ Ýñ³Ýáí, áñ ϳñáÕ »ë ųٻñáí Ýëï»É ëñ׳ñ³ÝáõÙ, ÙÇ µ³Å³Ï ëáõñ× í³Û»É»É áõ ѻ層É, ÏÛ³ÝùÇ ÁÝóóùÇÝ:

YEREVAN 56

Photo © Hakop ԳՅՈՒՄՐԻ ԳՅՈՒՄՐԻ G Y U M R I Photo © Arman Kocharian Photo © Photo © David Ayvazyan §ÐáÏï»Ùµ»ñ¦ ÏÇÝáóïñáÝÇ ß»ÝùÁ, 1953 Ã. / “Hoktember” Cinema, 1953.

ՄՇԱԿՈՒՅԹԻ ՔԱՂԱՔ / CULTURAL CITY

èáõë³Ï³Ý ϳÛëñáõÃÛ³Ý »ñµ»ÙÝÇ Ï³ñ¨áñ áõջϳÉÁ` Once an important outpost of the Russian Empire, ¶ÛáõÙñÇÝ, г۳ëï³ÝÇ Í³ÕÏáõÝ ¹³ñ³ßñç³ÝÇ Gyumri is a living museum of Armenia’s belle époque. óݷ³ñ³Ý ¿ ÑÇß»óÝáõÙ: г۳ëï³ÝÇ ÑÛáõëÇë- Located in the northwest of Armenia at 1550 meters ³ñ¨ÙáõïùáõÙ ï»Õ³Ï³Ûí³Í ÞÇñ³ÏÇ Ù³ñ½Ç above sea level, Gyumri, the administrative center of í³ñã³Ï³Ý Ï»ÝïñáÝ ¶ÛáõÙñÇÝ ÍáíÇ Ù³Ï³ñ¹³ÏÇó Shirak province, has a rich and colorful past, which µ³ñÓñ ¿ 1550Ù: ²ÛÝ Ñ³ñáõëï áõ ·áõݳ·»Õ ³ÝóÛ³É any Gyumretsi (Gyumri resident) will proudly recount. áõÝÇ, áñáí Ñå³ñï³ÝáõÙ ¿ Ûáõñ³ù³ÝãÛáõñ ·ÛáõÙñ»óÇ: According to 5th century historian Movses Khorenatsi, Àëï 5-ñ¹ ¹³ñÇ å³ïÙÇã Øáíë»ë Êáñ»Ý³óáõ, Gyumri’s mythical story began when Hayk, the ¶ÛáõÙñÇÇ ³é³ëå»É³Ï³Ý å³ïÙáõÃÛáõÝÁ ëÏëí»É ¿ founder of the Armenian nation, sent his gluttonous ³ÛÝ Å³Ù³Ý³Ï, »ñµ Ñ³Û ³½·Ç ݳ˳ѳÛñ гÛÏÝ Çñ grandson Shara to the fertile land above Mount áñÏñ³ÙáÉ Ãáé³ÝÁ` Þ³ñ³ÛÇÝ áõÕ³ñÏ»É ¿ ¹»åÇ Aragats where the water flowed. The place was ²ñ³·³Í É»é³Ý ëïáñáïÇ µ»ññÇ ÑáÕ»ñÁ, áñï»Õ named Shirak after him and its center was Kumayri, çáõñ ¿ñ ÑáëáõÙ: ì³ÛñÁ Ýñ³ ³ÝáõÝáí Ïáãí»É ¿ ÞÇñ³Ï` from which Gyumri’s modern name is derived. ÎáõÙ³ÛñÇ Ï»ÝïñáÝáí, áñï»ÕÇó ¿É ͳ·áõÙ ¿ Gyumri is in fact a fertile land, with rich black soil and ¶ÛáõÙñÇÇ Ý»ñϳÛÇë ³ÝáõÝÁ: ¶ÛáõÙñÇÝ å³ñ³ñï a diverse range of flora. The area is rich with construc- GYUMRI 62 ´Ý³Ï»ÉÇ ïáõÝ ²µáíÛ³Ý (ݳËÏÇÝ ²É»ùë³Ý¹ñáíëϳ۳) ÷áÕáóáõÙ / Residential building on Abovyan Street (formerly Alexandrovskaya).

먳ÑáÕáí áõ ѳñáõëï µáõë³Ï³ÝáõÃÛ³Ùµ µ»ññÇ tion materials such as tuff, basalt, diatomite and clay. ßñç³Ý ¿: î³ñ³ÍùÁ ѳñáõëï ¿ ³ÛÝåÇëÇ The flowing water that Khorenatsi refers to is the ßÇݳÝÛáõûñáí, ÇÝãåÇëÇù »Ý ïáõýÁ, µ³½³ÉïÁ, Akhurian, an abundant river that passes by the city. ¹Ç³ïáÙÇïÁ ¨ ϳíÁ: ÐáëáÕ çáõñÁ, áñ Ýϳñ³·ñ»É ¿ñ Êáñ»Ý³óÇÝ, ²ËáõñÛ³Ý Ñáñ¹³é³ï ·»ïÝ ¿, áñ On the western hills of Gyumri, evidence of human ³ÝóÝáõÙ ¿ ù³Õ³ùÇ Ùáïáí: settlement dates back to 5000 BC. The earliest written accounts of Gyumri are found in Assyrian descriptions ¶ÛáõÙñÇÇ ³ñ¨ÙïÛ³Ý µÉáõñÝ»ñÁ 5000 ï³ñÇ ù.³. of the area and in a cuneiform inscription from the 8th Ãí³·ñíáÕ µÝ³ÏáõÃÛ³Ý íϳÛáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñ »Ý: ø³Õ³ùÇ century BC, which can still be found in nearby Ù³ëÇÝ ³Ù»Ý³ÑÇÝ íϳÛáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñ Ï³Ý ï»Õ³ÝùÁ Vahramaberd village. The inscription, written for the Ýϳñ³·ñáÕ ³ëáñ³Ï³Ý ³ÕµÛáõñÝ»ñáõÙ ¨ ù.³. 8-ñ¹ Urartian King Argishti I, refers to the people of Kuliani ¹³ñÇÝ Ãí³·ñíáÕ ë»å³·Çñ ³ñӳݷñáõÃÛ³Ý Ù»ç, (the city’s first name). áñÁ ·ïÝíáõÙ ¿ ì³Ññ³Ù³µ»ñ¹ ·ÛáõÕáõÙ ·ïÝíáÕ µÉñÇ íñ³: àõñ³ñï³Ï³Ý ó·³íáñ ²ñ·ÇßïÇ I-Ç Xenophon (ca. 430-355 BC), the renowned Greek ³ñӳݳ·ñáõÃÛ³Ý Ù»ç ÑÇß³ï³ÏíáõÙ ¿ ÎáõÉdzÝÇÇ military leader and historian, wrote about the city in (ù³Õ³ùÇ ³é³çÇÝ ³Ýí³ÝáõÙÁ) ÅáÕáíáõñ¹Á: his Anabasis, which is used to this day as a historical гÛïÝÇ ÑáõÛÝ ½áñ³í³ñ ¨ å³ïÙÇã øë»Ýá÷áÝÁ reference. Xenophon recounts the epic journey when (ù.³. 430-555) ÑÇß³ï³ÏáõÙ ¿ ù³Õ³ùÝ Çñ he and the “ten thousand” marched through Armenia 63 ԳՅՈՒՄՐԻ Photo © Anna Davtyan êµ.²Ù»Ý³÷ñÏÇ㠻ϻջóÇÝ, լինելով Անիի տաճարի կրկնօրինակը, ³í»ñí»É ¿ 1988 Ã. ¹»Ïï. 7-Ç »ñÏñ³ß³ñÅÇó, ³ÛÅÙ í»ñ³Ï³Ý·ÝíáõÙ ¿ St. Amenaprkitch Church, modeled after the Cathedral of Ani, was ruined in the 1988 earthquake and is currently un- dergoing restoration. Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo © Photo © Karen Mirzoyan

èáõë³Ï³Ý ųٳïáõÝÁ êɳµá¹Ï³ óճٳëáõÙ / Russian Church in the Slabodka District. ²Ý³µ³ëÇë ëï»Õͳ·áñÍáõÃÛ³Ý Ù»ç, áñÁ ÙÇÝã ûñë ÏÇñ³éíáõÙ ¿ áñå»ë å³ïÙ³Ï³Ý áõÕ»óáõÛó: Alexandropol, home øë»Ýá÷áÝÁ Ýϳñ³·ñáõÙ ¿ ³ÛÝ ¿åÇÏ³Ï³Ý to four Armenian ³ñß³í³ÝùÁ, »ñµ ݳ ¨ §ï³ëÝÛ³Ï Ñ³½³ñÁ¦ ³Ýó»É churches, a Russian »Ý г۳ëï³ÝÇ ÙÇçáí ¹»åÇ ê¨ Ìáí: î³ñ³ÍùÇ ÙÇ Ñ³ïí³ÍÁ ݳ ÑÇß³ï³ÏáõÙ ¿ ǵñ¨ ¶ÛáõÙÝdzë: church, a Catholic church and a Greek ø.Ñ. 4-ñ¹ ¹³ñáõÙ Ñ³Û »Ï»Õ»óáõ ÑÇÙݳ¹Çñ ëµ. ¶ñÇ·áñ church, was Èáõë³íáñÇãÁ ÎáõÙ³ÛñÇÇ Ñ»Ã³Ýáë³Ï³Ý ï³×³ñÝ»ñÇ ³í»ñ³ÏÝ»ñÇ íñ³ ÙÇ ù³ÝÇ »Ï»Õ»óÇÝ»ñ ¿ ϳéáõó»É: commonly known as ¸ñ³ÝóÇó »Ý êáõñµ Üß³Ý ¨ Úáà ì»ñù (êáõñµ “the town of seven ²Ù»Ý³÷ñÏÇã) »Ï»Õ»óÇÝ»ñÁ: churches”. âÝ³Û³Í í³Õ ½³ñ·³óÙ³ÝÁ, ÎáõÙ³ÛñÇÝ ß³ñáõݳÏáõÙ ¿ ÙÝ³É ÙÇ ÷áùñÇÏ ù³Õ³ù, ³ñ¨ÙáõïùÇ Ù»Í ù³Õ³ùÝ»ñ ²ÝÇÇ áõ γñëÇ ëïí»ñáõÙ: ¶ÛáõÙñÇÇ ½³ñ·³óÙ³Ý ³Ù»Ý³Ý߳ݳϳÉÇ ßñç³ÝÁ 19-ñ¹ ¹³ñÇ éáõë³Ï³Ý ïÇñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý ûñáù ¿ñ: 1804Ã. éáõë- å³ñëÏ³Ï³Ý å³ï»ñ³½ÙÇ Å³Ù³Ý³Ï, ºñ¨³ÝÇ áõ ²ñ¨»ÉÛ³Ý Ð³Û³ëï³ÝÇ Ùݳó³Í Ù³ëÇ Áݹ·ñÏí»Éáõó ù³éáñ¹ ¹³ñ ³é³ç, ï³ñ³ÍùÝ Áݹ·ñÏí³Í ¿ñ èáõë³Ï³Ý γÛëñáõÃÛ³Ý Ù»ç: èáõë³Ï³Ý

ì»ñ³Ï³Ý·Ýí³Í êµ. Üß³Ý »Ï»Õ»óÇÝ / St. Nshan Church, restored. Photo © Arman Kocharian Photo ©

GYUMRI 68 Photo © Anna Davtyan µ³ÝíáñÝ»ñ ¿ÇÝ·³ÉÇë Ýáñ ³ß˳ï³ï»Õ»ñ: այստեղ` ³ß˳ï»Éáõ ²ÙµáÕç ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ ä³ï»ñ³½ÙÇó Ñ»ïá ëï»ÕÍí»óÇÝ 50.000 ³ñ¹Ûáõݳµ»ñ³Ï³Ý ·áñͳñ³ÝÝ»ñáõÙ: í»ñ»Éù ëÏëí»ó, ØÇáõÃÛáõÝÇó ïÇñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý ßñç³ÝáõÙ ¶ÛáõÙñÇÝ ½·³ÉÇáñ»Ý en route to the Black Sea. He refers to part of the µ³ñ·³í³×»ó: ܳËÏÇÝ ý»á¹³É³Ï³Ý territory as Gumnias. ѳë³ñ³Ï³ñ·Á Ùáõïù ·áñÍ»ó ³ñ¹Ûáõݳµ»ñ³Ï³Ý ¹³ñ³ßñç³Ý: ø³Õ³ùǪ ²ËáõñÛ³Ý ¹³ßï³í³ÛñáõÙ In the 4th century AD, St. Gregory the Illuminator, áõÝ»ó³Í é³½Ù³í³ñ³Ï³Ý ¹ÇñùÇ ¨ ÂáõñùdzÛÇ founder of the Armenian Church, had several ë³ÑÙ³ÝÇÝ Ùáï ·ïÝí»Éáõ å³ï׳éáí ³Ûëï»Õ churches built in Kumayri on the ruins of pagan ÑëÏ³Û³Ï³Ý ³Ùñáó ϳéáõóí»ó, áñÁ ϳݷáõÝ ¿ ÙÇÝã temples. Among these are the sites of the current ûñë: St. Nshan and Yot Verk (St. Amenaprkitch) churches.

1828-29ÃÃ. éáõë-Ãáõñù³Ï³Ý å³ï»ñ³½ÙÇó Ñ»ïá Despite early development, for several centuries, ѳ½³ñ³íáñ ÁÝï³ÝÇùÝ»ñ ²ñ¨ÙïÛ³Ý Ð³Û³ëï³ÝǪ Kumayri would remain a small town and a backwater úëÙ³ÝÛ³Ý ÂáõñùdzÛÇ ïÇñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý ï³Ï of Ani and Kars, the great cities to its west. The most ·ïÝíáÕ Î³ñë, ¾ñ½ñáõÙ ¨ ´³Û³½»ï ù³Õ³ùÝ»ñÇó significant period of Gyumri’s development took place ·³ÕûóÇÝ ¨ µÝ³ÏáõÃÛáõÝ Ñ³ëï³ï»óÇÝ ÎáõÙ³ÛñÇáõÙ: in the 19th century, under Russian rule. The region was Üñ³ÝóÇó ß³ï»ñÁ í³ñå»ïÝ»ñ áõ ³ñÑ»ëï³íáñÝ»ñ absorbed into the Russian Empire in 1804, during the ¿ÇÝ, áñáÝù ٻͳå»ë Ýå³ëï»óÇÝ ù³Õ³ùÇ µ³ñ·³í³×Ù³ÝÁ: first Russo-Persian War, a quarter of a century before the absorption of Yerevan. This was made 1830-³Ï³ÝÝ»ñÇÝ ÎáõÙ³ÛñÇÝ ³ñ¹»Ý ͳÕÏáõÝ ù³Õ³ù official in 1813 by the Treaty of Gulistan. The Russian ¿ñª ³ñí»ëïÝ»ñÇ, ³ñÑ»ëïÝ»ñÇ áõ ·ÇïáõÃÛ³Ý era initiated a period of tremendous growth for Ï»ÝïñáÝ: 1837Ã. èáõë³ëï³ÝÇ ó³ñ ÜÇÏáÉ³Û I-Ý Gyumri. What was once a feudal society was pushed ³Ûó»É»ó ÎáõÙ³ÛñÇ, Ýñ³ ÏÝáç` ²É»ùë³Ý¹ñ³ into the industrial age. A huge fortress was built there üÛá¹áñáíݳÛÇ ³ÝáõÝáí ù³Õ³ùÁ í»ñ³Ýí³Ýí»ó – and is used to this day – because of the town’s ²É»ùë³Ý¹ñ³åáɪ: ijٳݳÏÇ ÁÝóóùáõÙ strategic location along the Akhurian Valley and its ï»Õ³óÇÝ»ñÁ ëÏë»óÇÝ Ïáã»É ³ÛÝ ²É»ùåáÉ: лﳷ³ proximity to the Turkish border. ï³ñÇÝ»ñÇÝ ²É»ùë³Ý¹ñ³åáÉáõÙ ÑÇÙÝí»óÇÝ ³ÛÝåÇëÇ ½ÇÝíáñ³Ï³Ý ³í³ÝÝ»ñ, ÇÝãåÇëÇù »Ý äáÉÇ·áÝÝ»ñ, After the Russo-Turki sh War of 1828-1829, thousands ꨻ñëÏÇ ¨ γ½³ãÇ åáëï ½áñ³ÝáóÝ»ñÁ, ¨ ù³Õ³ùÝ of families fled from the Western Armenian towns of ³ñ³·áñ»Ý í»ñ³Íí»ó ²Ý¹ñÏáíϳëáõÙ èáõë³Ï³Ý Kars, Erzerum and Bayazet, which were under µ³Ý³ÏÇ Ï³ñ¨áñ áõջϳÉÇ: Ottoman Turkish rule, and settled in Kumayri. Many of them were craftsmen and trades people 1840Ã. ²É»ùë³Ý¹ñ³åáÉÁ å³ßïáݳå»ë ëï³ó³í who contributed a great deal to the town’s ù³Õ³ùÇ Ï³ñ·³íÇ׳Ï, ÇëÏ ï³ë ï³ñÇ ³Ýó, ³ÛÝ growth and prosperity. ¹³ñÓ³í ²É»ùë³Ý¹ñ³åáÉÇ ·³í³éÇ (Ý»ñϳÛáõÙë ÞÇñ³ÏÇ Ù³ñ½) í³ñã³Ï³Ý Ï»ÝïñáÝ: ÂÇýÉÇëÇó ¨ By the 1830s, Kumayri was a flourishing center for the ´³ùíÇó Ñ»ïá ³ÛÝ Ñ³Ù³ñíáõÙ ¿ñ ³ñÑ»ëïÝ»ñÇ ¨ arts, trade and science. In 1837, it was granted a visit Ùß³ÏáõÛÃÇ »ññáñ¹ Ï»ÝïñáÝÝ ²Ý¹ñÏáíϳëáõÙ: ºñµ by Russian Czar Nicholas I, who renamed the town ºñ¨³ÝÁ ѳ½Çí »ñÏáõ ÷áÕáó áõÝ»ñ, ¶ÛáõÙñÇáõÙ ³éϳ Alexandropol after his wife, Alexandra Feodorovna. ¿ñ ÷áÕáóÝ»ñÇ ÙÇ ³ÙµáÕç ó³Ýó, ÏáÛáõÕáõ ѳٳϳñ· Over time, it came to be known to its locals as Alekpol ¨ ï³ñ³Í³ßñç³ÝÇ É³í³·áõÛÝ Ë³ÝáõÃÝ»ñÇó, for short. Military barracks, such as Poligons, Severski ¹åñáóÝ»ñÇó áõ óïñáÝÝ»ñÇó ÙÇ ù³ÝÇëÁ: and Kazachi Post, were established in Alexandropol in ´³óÇ ³ñÑ»ëïÝ»ñÇ áõ Ùß³ÏáõÛÃÇ Ï»ÝïñáÝ ÉÇÝ»Éáõó, the coming years and the town quickly became an ²É»ùë³Ý¹ñ³åáÉÁ ѳÛïÝÇ ¿ñ ݳ¨ Çñ »Ï»Õ»óÇÝ»ñáí: important outpost of the Russian army in the ²ÛÝ Ñ³×³Ë ³Ýí³ÝáõÙ ¿ÇÝ §Ûáà »Ï»Õ»óÇÝ»ñÇ Transcaucasus. ù³Õ³ù¦: Úáà »Ï»Õ»óÇÝ»ñÇó ãáñëÁ Ñ³Û ³é³ù»É³Ï³Ý »Ï»Õ»óÇÝ»ñ ¿ÇÝ: γÛÇÝ Ý³¨ Ù»Ï éáõë³Ï³Ý, Ù»Ï Ï³ÃáÉÇÏ³Ï³Ý ¨ Ù»Ï ÑáõÝ³Ï³Ý »Ï»Õ»óÇÝ»ñ:

GYUMRI 70 Photo © Arsen Safaryan Photo ©

1988Ã. »ñÏñ³ß³ñÅÇó íݳëí³Í È»ÝÇݳϳÝÇ ù³ÕËáñÑñ¹Ç ß»ÝùÁ, Ý»ñϳÛáõÙë í»ñ³Ï³éáõóíáõÙ ¿ / Leninakan City Hall, which was damaged by the 1988 earthquake, is currently undergoing restoration. Today, 20 years after the earthquake, life in Gyumri is regaining momentum. Reconstruction is well under way and cultural life is resuming its pace. Photo © Levon Barseghyan

êµ.²Ù»Ý³÷ñÏÇ㠻ϻջóÇÝ Ï³éáõóí»É ¿ Alexandropol was formally granted the status of a city 1854-1873ÃÃ. ²ÝÇÇ Ø³Ûñ ï³×³ñÇ ûñÇݳÏáí: in 1840 and ten years later, it became the administra- ê³ Ñ³ñ·³ÝùÇ ïáõñù ¿ñ ù³Õ³ùÇ ²ñ¨ÙïÛ³Ý tive center of Alexandropol region (modern day Shirak г۳ëï³ÝÇó í»ñ³µÝ³Ï»óí³ÍÝ»ñÇ province). It was considered the third trade and ѳñ³½³ïÝ»ñÇÝ: ø³ÝÇ áñ Ýñ³ÝóÇó ß³ï»ñÁ cultural center in the Transcaucasus, after Tbilisi and Ëáõë³÷»Éáí úëÙ³ÝÛ³Ý Ñ³É³Í³ÝùÝ»ñÇó, ÷áñÓáõÙ Baku. At a time when Yerevan was barely two streets ¿ÇÝ ¶ÛáõÙñÇÝ ²ñ¨ÙïÛ³Ý Ð³Û³ëï³ÝÇ ßù»Õ ù³Õ³ù long, Gyumri had a complex grid of streets, a sewage ²ÝÇÇ Å³é³Ý·áñ¹Á ¹³ñÓÝ»É: system, and some of the finest shops, schools and theaters in the region. ¶ÛáõÙñÇÇ Í³ÕÏÙ³Ý ßñç³ÝáõÙ ½³ñ·³ÝáõÙ ¿ÇÝ ³ñí»ëïÝ»ñÁ, ÇëÏ ù³Õ³ùÝ ³Û¹ ÁÝóóùáõÙ ïí»ó ÙÇ In addition to being a major trade and cultural center, ß³ñù ³Ï³Ý³íáñ Ñ³Û ·ñáÕÝ»ñ áõ »ñ³ÅÇßïÝ»ñ: Alexandropol was known for its churches. It was ¶ÛáõÙñ»óÇ »Ý µ³Ý³ëï»ÕÍ ²í»ïÇù Æë³Ñ³ÏÛ³ÝÁ, commonly known as “the town of seven churches”. ·áõë³ÝÝ»ñ Þ»ñ³ÙÁ, ü³Ññ³¹Á, ʳ۳ÃÁ, æÇí³ÝÇÝ: гÛïÝÇ ²Ýáõß ûå»ñ³ÛÇ åñ»ÙÇ»ñ³Ý ï»ÕÇ ¿ áõÝ»ó»É Of the seven churches, four were Armenian Apostolic. ¶ÛáõÙñÇáõÙ 1912Ã.: ø³Õ³ùÁ ѳÛïÝÇ ¿ñ Çñ There was also a Russian church, a Catholic church ¹åñáóÝ»ñáí áõ áõëáõÙݳñ³ÝÝ»ñáí, áñï»Õ and a Greek church. The Church of St. Amenaprkitch áõëáõóáõÙÁ ï³ñíáõÙ ¿ñ ѳۻñ»Ý, éáõë»ñ»Ý, (Holy Savior) was built between 1854 and 1873, ɳïÇÝ»ñ»Ý ¨ Ñáõݳñ»Ý É»½áõÝ»ñáí: modeled after the famous Cathedral of Ani. GYUMRI 72

¸»Ïï»Ùµ»ñ 7, 1988 Ã. December 7th 1988: ³í»ñÇã »ñÏñ³ß³ñÅÁ A Devastating Earthquake

20-ñ¹ ¹³ñÇ ÁÝóóùáõÙ ¶ÛáõÙñÇÝ µ³½ÙÇóë ¿ ïáõÅ»É Gyumri suffered many earthquakes in the 20th »ñÏñ³ß³ñÅÝ»ñÇó, áñáÝóÇó ³Ù»Ý³ë³ñë³÷»ÉÇÝ ï»ÕÇ century, the most severe of which occurred in áõÝ»ó³í 1988Ã. ¹»Ï»Ùµ»ñÇ 7-ÇÝ: 1980-³Ï³Ý ÃÃ. December 1988. By the 1980s, its population had ù³Õ³ùÇ µÝ³ÏãáõÃÛ³Ý ÃÇíÁ ѳë»É ¿ñ 250.000-Ç ¨ ³ÛÝ reached 250,000 and it had become a major ¹³ñÓ»É ¿ñ ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ ØÇáõÃÛ³Ý Ï³ñ¨áñ industrial production center for the Soviet Union. ³ñ¹Ûáõݳµ»ñ³Ï³Ý Ï»ÝïñáÝÝ»ñÇó Ù»ÏÁ: ê³Ï³ÛÝ However, the city that seemed to be in constant ϳÛáõÝ ½³ñ·³óáõÙ ³åñáÕ ³Ûë ù³Õ³ùÁ µ³é³óÇáñ»Ý growth literally came tumbling to the ground in the ·»ïÝÇÝ Ñ³í³ë³ñí»ó 1988Ã. ¹»Ïï»Ùµ»ñÛ³Ý earthquake that hit on December 7, 1988. »ñÏñ³ß³ñÅÇó, áñÇ ¿åÇÏ»ÝïñáÝÁ ¶ÛáõÙñÇ ¨ êåÇï³Ï The earthquake, whose epicenter was at Nalband ù³Õ³ùÝ»ñÇ ÙÇç¨ ·ïÝíáÕ Ü³Éµ³Ý¹ ·ÛáõÕÝ ¿ñ: village between Gyumri and Spitak, killed 25,000 ºñÏñ³ß³ñÅÇ ½áÑ ¹³ñÓ³Ý 25000 Ù³ñ¹, ÇëÏ 500000 people and left 500,000 homeless. Aid arrived from Ù³ñ¹ ¶ÛáõÙñÇáõÙ ¨ ѳñ³ÏÇó µÝ³Ï³í³Ûñ»ñáõÙ ÙݳóÇÝ all over the world to bring relief to the people of the ³Ýûè³Ý: ²í»ñí³Í ù³Õ³ùÇ ÅáÕáíáõñ¹Ý û·ÝáõÃÛáõÝ ¿ñ destroyed city. This was the first time foreign aid ëï³ÝáõÙ ³ÙµáÕç ³ß˳ñÑÇó: ê³ ³é³çÇÝ ¹»åùÝ ¿ñ was allowed in the Soviet Union. ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ ØÇáõÃÛáõÝáõÙ, »ñµ ÃáõÛɳïñí»ó ûï³ñ»ñÏñÛ³ û·ÝáõÃÛáõÝ: Today, 20 years after the devastating earthquake, Gyumri is in a constant process of restoration: Ü»ñϳÛáõÙë, ³í»ñÇã »ñÏñ³ß³ñÅÇó 20 ï³ñÇ ³Ýó, rebuilding its infrastructure, industry, and cultural ¶ÛáõÙñÇÝ ß³ñáõݳÏáõÙ ¿ í»ñ³Ï³éáõóí»É: life piece by piece, and always looking to the ø³ÛÉ ³é ù³ÛÉ í»ñ³Ï³Ý·ÝíáõÙ »Ý future. »Ýóϳéáõóí³ÍùÝ»ñÁ, ³ñ¹Ûáõݳµ»ñáõÃÛáõÝÁ ¨ Ùß³ÏáõóÛÇÝ ÏÛ³ÝùÁ:

75 §ÞÇñ³Ï¦ ÑÛáõñ³ÝáóÁ / Shirak Hotel. Photo © Anna Davtyan Photo ©

1926Ã. »ñÏñ³ß³ñÅÇó ³í»ñí³Í µÝ³Ï»ÉÇ ïÝ»ñ / Homes destroyed by the 1926 earthquake.

GYUMRI 76

Photo © Anna Davtyan Rures agnascor saburre. Pessimus gulosus catelli conubium santet parsimonia cathedras, Photo © Anna Davtyan Photo ©

1899Ã. ߳ѳ·áñÍÙ³Ý Ñ³ÝÓÝí»ó ÂÇýÉÇë- This is seen as a tribute to the ancestral roots of many ²É»ùë³Ý¹ñ³åáÉ »ñϳ÷ÇÍÁª ϳå»Éáí ù³Õ³ùÁ of the city’s inhabitants. Since so many of them had ßñç³Ï³ ï³ñ³ÍùÝ»ñÇ Ñ»ï ¨ Ýå³ëï»Éáí Ýñ³ arrived from Western Armenia, fleeing persecution ѻﳷ³ ³×ÇÝ: 1906Ã. »ñϳÃáõÕÇÝ Ñ³ëóí»ó under the Ottoman Turks, they saw the city as a ºñ¨³Ý, ³ÛÝáõÑ»ï¨ æáõÉý³ ¨ ³íñǽ` successor to the great Western Armenian city of Ani. ²É»ùë³Ý¹ñ³åáÉÁ ¹³ñÓÝ»Éáí ϳñ¨áñ »ñϳÃáõÕ³ÛÇÝ Ñ³Ý·áõÛó: 19-ñ¹ ¹³ñÇ í»ñçáõÙ The arts flourished during Gyumri’s belle époque and ²É»ùë³Ý¹ñ³åáÉÇ µÝ³ÏãáõÃÛ³Ý ÃÇíÁ ѳë»É ¿ñ 32 several important Armenian writers and musicians 000-Ç: emerged from the city. Poet Avetik Isahakyan and bards Jivani, Sheram, Fahrad, and Khaiyat all hailed ºñÏñáñ¹ Ëáßáñ Ý»ñ·³ÕÃÁ ï»ÕÇ áõÝ»ó³í from Gyumri. The famous Armenian opera Anush 1915-1918ÃÃ.ª ѳÛáó Ø»Í ºÕ»éÝÇó Ñ»ïá: premiered in Gyumri in 1912. The city was famous for ²ñ¨ÙïÛ³Ý Ð³Û³ëï³ÝÇó, Ù»Í Ù³ë³Ùµ γñëÇó, its schools and colleges, where teaching was ѳ½³ñ³íáñ ÷³Ëëï³Ï³ÝÝ»ñ Ý»ñ·³ÕûóÇÝ: conducted in Armenian, Russian, Latin and Greek. ²ëáõÙ »Ýª ³Û¹ ï³ñÇÝ»ñÇÝ Î³ñëÇó Ý»ñ·³ÕóÍÝ»ñÁ Ãíáí ·»ñ³½³ÝóáõÙ ¿ÇÝ ¶ÛáõÙñÇÇ µÝ³ÏÇãÝ»ñÇÝ: ØÇÝã ³ÛÅÙ ¶ÛáõÙñÇÇ µÝ³ÏÇãÝ»ñÁ »ñµ»ÙÝ In 1899, the Tbilisi-Alexandropol Railway was ï³ñ³Ýç³ïáõÙ »Ý Õ³ñë»óÇÝ»ñÇÝ áõ completed, linking the city to surrounding areas and ·ÛáõÙñ»óÇÝ»ñÇÝ: prompting further growth. The rail line was extended 79 ԳՅՈՒՄՐԻ Photo © Raffi Niziblian

Photo © Anna Davtyan §æáõÉѳÏáõÑáõ¦ ù³Ý¹³ÏÁ. ÝíÇñí³Í ï»ùëïÇÉÇ µ³ÝíáñáõÑÇÝ»ñÇÝ / “The Weaver”, dedicated to the workers of Gyumri’s textile factory. Photo © Anna Davtyan Photo ©

1918-1920ÃÃ. èáõë³Ï³Ý ϳÛëñáõÃÛ³Ý ÷Éáõ½áõÙÇó to reach Yerevan, Julfa and Tabriz in 1906, making Ñ»ïá ¶ÛáõÙñÇÝ å³Ûù³ñáõÙ ¿ñ Ãáõñù Ýí³×áÕÝ»ñÇ Alexandropol a major railway hub. By the end of the ¹»Ù ß³ï ϳñ× ÏÛ³Ýù áõÝ»ó³Í г۳ëï³ÝÇ 19th century, Alexandropol’s population had reached ÄáÕáíñ¹³í³ñ³Ï³Ý гÝñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý Ï³½ÙáõÙ: 32,000. 1920Ã. ÝáÛ»Ùµ»ñÇÝ Ãáõñù»ñÁ Ýí³×»óÇÝ ù³Õ³ùÁ` ѳÕÃ³Ý³Ï ï³Ý»Éáí ²É»ùë³Ý¹ñ³åáÉÇ A second major refugee influx occurred between 1915 ׳ϳï³Ù³ñïáõÙ: and 1918, during the Armenian Genocide. Thousands of Western Armenian refugees arrived, most of them ¸ñ³ÝÇó ß³ï ã³Ýó³Í µáÉߨÇÏÛ³Ý Î³ñÙÇñ µ³Ý³ÏÁ from nearby Kars. It is said that over the course of ÈáéÇÇó Ùï³í ÞÇñ³Ï ¨ ·ñ³í»ó ²É»ùë³Ý¹ñ³åáÉÁ, these years, people from Kars outnumbered the native áñÁ г۳ëï³ÝÇ Ùݳó³Í Ù³ëÇ Ñ»ï Ùdzóí»ó population of Gyumri and to this day, Gyumri’s locals ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ ØÇáõÃÛ³ÝÁ: ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ ßñç³ÝáõÙ often make the distinction between Karsetsi and ¶ÛáõÙñÇÝ µ³ñ·³í³×Ù³Ý Ù»Ï ³ÛÉ ßñç³Ý Ùï³í: Gyumretsi. 1920-1960ÃÃ. áõà ³Ý·³Ù ³í»É³ó³í µÝ³ÏãáõÃÛáõÝÝ áõ ½·³ÉÇáñ»Ý ½³ñ·³ó³í ³ñ¹Ûáõݳµ»ñáõÃÛáõÝÁ: Following the collapse of the Russian Empire, 1924Ã, ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ ³é³çÝáñ¹ È»ÝÇÝÇ ÑÇß³ï³ÏÇÝ` ù³Õ³ùÁ í»ñ³Ýí³Ýí»ó È»ÝÇݳϳÝ: Alexandropol struggled to fight off Turkish invasions for two years (1918-1920) as part of the short-lived Democratic Republic of Armenia. Turkey occupied the

83 ԳՅՈՒՄՐԻ Photo © Anna Davtyan Photo ©

Þ³éÉ ²½Ý³íáõñÇ ³ñÓ³ÝÁ ѳٳÝáõÝ Ññ³å³ñ³ÏáõÙ / Statue of Charles Aznavour in Charles Aznavour Square. Photo © Arman Kocharian Photo ©

гÛáõÑáõ ³ñÓ³ÝÁ ²ÝϳËáõÃÛ³Ý Ññ³å³ñ³ÏáõÙ / Statue of an Armenian woman in Independence Square. êµ. ²ëïí³Í³ÍÇÝ (ÚáÃí»ñù) »Ï»Õ»óáõ 1988Ã. »ñÏñ³ß³ñÅÇó ËáݳñÑí³Í ·Ùµ»ÃÝ»ñÁ, áñå»ë Ñáõß³ñÓ³ÝÝ»ñ å³Ñå³ÝíáõÙ »Ý »Ï»Õ»óáõ µ³ÏáõÙ / St. Astvatsatsin (Yot Verk) Church. Its old domes collapsed during the 1988 earthquake and now stand as a memorial in front of the church. Photo © Arman Kocharian Photo ©

ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ ßñç³ÝÇ ëϽµáõ٠гÛÏ³Ï³Ý ÊêÐ-áõÙ city in November 1920 upon winning the Battle of ·áõÙ³ñÝ»ñÇ Ù»Í Ù³ëÁ ͳËëíáõÙ ¿ñ Ù³Ûñ³ù³Õ³ù Alexandropol. ºñ¨³ÝÇ Ï³éáõóÙ³Ý íñ³: àñå»ë ϳñ¨áñ é³½Ù³Ï³Ý Ñ»Ý³Ï»ï È»ÝÇݳϳÝÁ í»ñ³Íí»É ¿ñ Shortly thereafter, the Bolshevik Red Army entered the ½µáë³ßñçáõÃÛ³Ý ¨ µÝ³ÏáõÃÛ³Ý ³éáõÙáí ÷³Ï area through Lori and seized Alexandropol, which was ù³Õ³ùǪ ëï³Ý³Éáí ѳÝñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý »ñÏñáñ¹ then incorporated into the Soviet Union with the rest ù³Õ³ùÇ Ï³ñ·³íÇ׳Ï: of Armenia. Under the Soviets, Gyumri underwent another period of significant growth. Both population ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ Çß˳ÝáõÃÛ³Ý Ý»ñùá ݳ¨ µÝ³Ï»ÉÇ and industrialization increased eight-fold between the ß»Ýù»ñÇ ßÇݳݳñ³ñáõÃÛáõÝ ¿ñ ï³ñíáõÙ, áñÁ ß³ï 1920s and the 1960s. The city was renamed in 1924, Ñ³×³Ë ³Ý÷áõÛà ϻñåáí ¿ñ Çñ³Ï³Ý³óíáõÙ, ѳßíÇ this time in memory of the deceased Soviet Leader ã³éÝ»Éáí ¿ëûïÇÏ ¨ ³Ýíï³Ý·áõÃÛ³Ý Vladimir Lenin, Leninakan. Ýϳï³éáõÙÝ»ñÁ: ´³ñ»µ³Ëï³µ³ñ, ¶ÛáõÙñÇÇ å³ïÙ³Ï³Ý In the early Soviet period, most of the money in the óճٳëÁ, 19-ñ¹ ¹³ñÇ Í³ÕÏáõÝ ßñç³ÝÇ ³í»ÉÇ Armenian SSR went towards building up its capital, ù³Ý 1000 ϳéáõÛóÝ»ñáí, ѳçáÕí»ó å³Ñå³Ý»É áãÝã³óáõÙÇó: ÐÇÝ ù³Õ³ùÁ ¶ÛáõÙñÇÇ Ñå³ñïáõÃÛáõÝÝ Yerevan. Considered a military strongpoint, Leninakan ¿ ª ϻݹ³ÝÇ Ã³Ý·³ñ³Ýª å³ïÙ³Ï³Ý Ï³éáõÛóÝ»ñÇ was made a closed city, with travel and residency ³Ù»Ý³Ù»Í ѳí³ù³Íáõáí ÎáíϳëáõÙ: restrictions, and fell into second city status. GYUMRI 86

The Old City is the pride of Gyumri: a living museum with the largest collection of 19th century buildings in the Caucasus. Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo © Rures agnascor saburre. Pessimus gulosus catelli conubium santet parsimonia cathedras,

¶ÛáõÙñÇÇ ³í³Ý¹áõÛÃÝ»ñÁ Gyumri’s Bathhouses: Part of a Local Tradition ¸³ñ»ñÇ ÁÝóóùáõ٠г۳ëï³ÝÇ Ûáõñ³ù³ÝãÛáõñ ßñç³ÝáõÙ Ó¨³íáñí»É »Ý ³Û¹ ßñç³ÝÇÝ µÝáñáß Over the centuries, each region of Armenia has ³í³Ý¹áõÛÃÝ»ñ áõ ëáíáñáõÛÃÝ»ñ: ¶ÛáõÙñ»óÇÝ»ñÁ ѳÛïÝÇ developed its distinctive customs and traditions. »Ý Çñ»Ýó ³í³Ý¹áõÛÃÝ»ñÁ ÙÇÝã ûñë ³ñųݳå³ïÇí Gyumretsis are known for proudly upholding their Ï»ñåáí å³Ñå³Ý»Éáí: 19-ñ¹ ¹³ñáõÙ ¶ÛáõÙñÇáõÙ characteristic customs well into modern times. ÁݹáõÝí³Í ¿ñ û·ïí»É ѳë³ñ³Ï³Ï³Ý µ³ÕÝÇùÝ»ñÇó: In the 19th century, it was common practice in γݳÝó ¨ ïÕ³Ù³ñ¹Ï³Ýó ѳٳñ ݳ˳ï»ëí³Í Gyumri to go to public bathhouses. The men’s and Ùáõïù»ñÁ ï³ñµ»ñ ÷áÕáóÝ»ñÇó ¿ÇÝ, áñå»ë½Ç Ýñ³Ýù the women’s entrances were on different streets, Ñݳñ³íáñáõÃÛáõÝ ãáõݻݳÛÇÝ Ñ³Ý¹Çå»É ÙÇÙÛ³Ýó so that they wouldn’t see each other entering or µ³ÕÝÇù ·³Éáõ ϳ٠·Ý³Éáõ ׳ݳå³ñÑÇÝ: ´³ÕÝÇùÝ»ñÝ leaving the baths. Bathhouses were so much a part ³ÛÝ ³ëïÇ׳ÝÇ ¿ÇÝ Ã³÷³Ýó»É Ù³ñ¹Ï³Ýó Ï»Ýó³Õ, áñ of people’s lives that they were incorporated into ¹ñ³Ýó Ñ»ï ϳåí³Í ëáíáñáõÛÃÝ»ñ ¿ÇÝ Ó¨³íáñí»É: local traditions. According to one common custom, ØÇ ëáíáñáõÛÃÇ Ñ³Ù³Ó³Ûݪ Ýß³Ýí³Í ½áõÛ·Ç when a couple was engaged to be married, the ѳñëݳóáõÇÝ ÷»ë³óáõÇ ÁÝï³ÝÇùÇ Ï³Ý³Ûù ï³ÝáõÙ women of the groom’s family would take the ¿ÇÝ µ³ÕÝÇù: ²Ûë ëáíáñáõÛÃÁ ß³ñáõݳÏíáõÙ ¿ñ ݳ¨ bride-to-be to the bathhouse. This tradition was ËáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ Å³Ù³Ý³Ï³ßñç³ÝáõÙ: upheld well into the Soviet era.

89 ԳՅՈՒՄՐԻ Photo © Vardan Mamikonian

Photo © Vardan Mamikonian

GYUMRI 90 ²É»ùë³Ýդñ³åáÉÇ ռáõë³Ï³Ý êև ³ÙñáóÁ ù³Õ³ùÇ ³ñ¨ÙïÛ³Ý ë³ÑÙ³ÝáõÙ. §êև Õáõɦ Photo © David Ayvazyan Photo © David Ayvazyan The Russians built a huge fortress in Alexandropol because of its strategic location along the Akhurian Valley and its proximity to the Turkish border.

سÛñ г۳ëï³Ý Ñáõ߳ѳٳÉÇñÁ / Mayr Hayastan (Mother Armenia) Memorial. Photo © David Ayvazyan Photo © David Photo © David Ayvazyan Photo © David

GYUMRI 94

New construction began quickly under the Soviets, In the 19th century, though it was often carried out in a slipshod manner, thousands of craftsmen with little regard for aesthetics, or more importantly, for safety. Fortunately, the city’s historic district, with and trades people fled its beautiful 19th century stone houses, was spared from Kars, Erzerum demolition. and Bayazet and settled in Gyumri, contributing Leninakan faced huge sacrifices during the Second World War, as did all of Armenia. With a population of to the city’s growth and 2 million, Armenia contributed 650,000 soldiers to the prosperity. Soviet war effort, 315,000 of whom died during the six-year conflict. An estimated 30% of Leninakan’s male population perished in the war.

After the war, an industrial boom began in Leninakan and 50,000 new jobs were created. Huge textile and È»ÝÇݳϳÝÁ, ÇÝãå»ë ¨ áÕç г۳ëï³ÝÁ Ù»Í Ãíáí heavy industry factories were built, as were the ½áÑ»ñ ïí»ó Ø»Í Ð³Ûñ»Ý³Ï³Ý å³ï»ñ³½ÙÇ characteristically drab buildings of the Khrushchev era ųٳݳÏ: ºñÏáõ ÙÇÉÇáݳÝáó µÝ³ÏãáõÃÛ³Ùµ that surround the Old City. Workers from throughout г۳ëï³ÝÁ 650000 ½ÇÝíáñ ïí»ó ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ the Soviet Union came to Leninakan to staff the µ³Ý³ÏÇÝ, áñáÝóÇó 315000 ½áÑí»óÇÝ í»ó ï³ñí³ factories. å³ï»ñ³½Ù³Ï³Ý ·áñÍáÕáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÇ Å³Ù³Ý³Ï: È»ÝÇݳϳÝÇ µÝ³ÏãáõÃÛ³Ý ³ñ³Ï³Ý ë»éÇ 30%-Á ½áÑ Over the next several decades, Leninakan continued ·Ý³ó å³ï»ñ³½ÙÇÝ: t o grow rapidly, but progress was stopped sharply in December 1988, due to a devastating earthquake, ä³ï»ñ³½ÙÇó Ñ»ïá ³ñ¹Ûáõݳµ»ñ³Ï³Ý í»ñ»Éù which killed 25,000 people in Leninakan and the ëÏëí»ó È»ÝÇݳϳÝáõÙ, ëï»ÕÍí»óÇÝ 50.000 Ýáñ surrounding area and left 500,000 homeless. ³ß˳ï³ï»Õ»ñ: γéáõóí»óÇÝ ï»ùëïÇÉ ¨ ͳÝñ ³ñ¹Ûáõݳµ»ñ³Ï³Ý, ËñáõßãáíÛ³Ý Fortunately, Gyumri’s historic district, with over 1000 ųٳݳϳßñç³ÝÇÝ Ñ³ïáõÏ, ·áñß ß»Ýù»ñáí 19th century structures built with beautiful Armenian ·áñͳñ³ÝÝ»ñ, áñáÝù ßñç³å³ïáõÙ »Ý ÑÇÝ ù³Õ³ùÁ: belle époque design, remained largely intact. The Old ²ÙµáÕç ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ ØÇáõÃÛáõÝÇó µ³ÝíáñÝ»ñ ¿ÇÝ City is the pride of Gyumri: a living museum with the ·³ÉÇë È»ÝÇݳϳÝ` ³ß˳ï»Éáõ ·áñͳñ³ÝÝ»ñáõÙ: largest collection of historical buildings in the Caucasus. лﳷ³ ÙÇ ù³ÝÇ ï³ëݳÙÛ³ÏÝ»ñÇ ÁÝóóùáõÙ È»ÝÇݳϳÝÁ ß³ñáõݳÏáõÙ ¿ñ ³ñ³· ³×»É, ë³Ï³ÛÝ The years following the 1988 earthquake were the ³Ûë ³×Á ÏïñáõÏ Ï»ñåáí Áݹѳïí»ó 1988Ã. darkest years in Gyumri’s history. In 1991, Armenia ¹»Ïï»Ùµ»ñÇ 7-Ç ³í»ñÇã »ñÏñ³ß³ñÅÇ å³ï׳éáí, áñÇÝ ½áÑ ·Ý³ó 25000 Ù³ñ¹, ÇëÏ 500000-Á ÙݳóÇÝ gained its independence from the Soviet Union, but ³Ýûè³Ý ù³Õ³ùáõÙ: independence was quickly followed by a war with Azerbaijan over Nagorno Karabagh. Turkey and 1988Ã. ѳçáñ¹áÕ ï³ñÇÝ»ñÝ ³Ù»Ý³ÙáõÃÝ ¿ÇÝ Azerbaijan imposed a blockade against Armenia and ¶ÛáõÙñÇÇ å³ïÙáõÃÛ³Ý Ù»ç: 1991Ã. г۳ëï³ÝÝ as a result, all supplies of gas were cut off. The ³Ýϳ˳ó³í ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ ØÇáõÃÛáõÝÇó, ë³Ï³ÛÝ Metsamor nuclear power plant was also shut down ³ÝϳËáõÃÛ³ÝÝ ³ñ³· ѳçáñ¹»ó Ô³ñ³µ³ÕÛ³Ý because of its vulnerability to further earthquakes. å³ï»ñ³½ÙÁ: ÂáõñùÇ³Ý ¨ ²¹ñµ»ç³ÝÁ The blockade, coupled with the closure of Metsamor, ßñç³÷³Ï»óÇÝ Ð³Û³ëï³ÝÁ, áñÇ ³ñ¹ÛáõÝùáõÙ left most Armenians without electricity or heat from

GYUMRI 96 ²É»ùë³Ý¹ñ³åáÉóÇÝ»ñÇ ÁÝïաÝÇù, 1916թ. / A family in Alexandropol in traditional clothing, 1916.

»ñÏñáõÙ ¹³¹³ñ»ó ·³½³Ù³ï³Ï³ñ³ñáõÙÁ: 1992 to 1995. All of these factors led to the collapse ´³óÇ ³Û¹, ÷³Ïí»ó ݳ¨ ػͳÙáñÇ ³ïáٳϳ۳ÝÁ, of the vital industrial infrastructure in Gyumri and ѻﳷ³ »ñÏñ³ß³ñÅ»ñÇ ¹»åùáõÙ Éáõñç íï³Ý· elsewhere in Armenia. Ý»ñϳ۳óÝ»Éáõ å³ï׳éáí: Þñç³÷³ÏÙ³Ý ¨ ػͳÙáñÇ ³ïáٳϳ۳ÝÇ ÷³ÏÙ³Ý ³ñ¹ÛáõÝùáõÙ Years of suffering were followed by a mass exodus. 1992-1995ÃÃ. г۳ëï³ÝÁ Ùݳó ³é³Ýó In a matter of years, Leninakan’s population fell from ¿É»Ïïñ³¿Ý»ñ·Ç³ÛÇ ¨ ç»éáõóÙ³Ý: Üßí³Í µáÉáñ 250,000 to barely 125,000. Most of the city’s ·áñÍáÝÝ»ñÁ µ»ñ»óÇÝ Ï³ñ¨áñ³·áõÛÝ able-bodied population left for Russia and other ³ñ¹Ûáõݳµ»ñ³Ï³Ý »Ýóϳéáõóí³ÍùÝ»ñÇ countries in pursuit of work. ÷Éáõ½Ù³ÝÁ ¶ÛáõÙñÇáõÙ ¨ ³éѳë³ñ³Ï г۳ëï³ÝáõÙ: During the independence movement and the breakup of the Soviet Union in 1990, î³é³å³ÝùÇ ï³ñÇÝ»ñÝ áõÕ»Ïóí»óÇÝ Kumayri/Alexandrapol/Leninakan was finally given its ½³Ý·í³Í³ÛÇÝ ³ñï³·³ÕÃáí: ØÇ ù³ÝÇ ï³ñáõÙ current name, Gyumri. The name was chosen as a ¶ÛáõÙñÇÇ µÝ³ÏãáõÃÛ³Ý ÃÇíÁ 250.000-Çó ѳë³í tribute to the city’s ancient roots. Perhaps out of habit, 125.000-Ç: ø³Õ³ùÇ ³ß˳ïáõÝ³Ï µÝ³ÏãáõÃÛ³Ý Ù»Í Ù³ëÁ Ù»ÏÝ»ó èáõë³ëï³Ý ¨ ³ÛÉ »ñÏñÝ»ñª ³ñﳷݳ locals often use its Soviet name, Leninakan. ³ß˳ï³ÝùÇ:

97 ԳՅՈՒՄՐԻ Photo © David Ayvazyan Photo © David

1990Ã. ³ÝϳËáõÃÛ³Ý ß³ñÅÙ³Ý ¨ ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ Today, 20 years after the earthquake, life in Gyumri is ØÇáõÃÛ³Ý ÷Éáõ½Ù³Ý ßñç³ÝáõÙ, ÎáõÙ³ÛñÇ- regaining momentum, though its economy is still ²É»ùë³Ý¹ñ³åáÉ-È»ÝÇݳϳÝÁ í»ñ³·ï³í Çñ mostly based on remittances from family members Ý»ñϳÛÇë ¶ÛáõÙñÇ ³Ýí³ÝáõÙÁ: ²Ýí³Ý ³Ûë working abroad. Large-scale reconstruction projects ÁÝïñáõÃÛáõÝÁ ѳñ·³ÝùÇ ïáõñù ¿ñ ù³Õ³ùÇ are underway. St. Amenaprkitch, the church modeled å³ïÙ³Ï³Ý ³ÝóÛ³ÉÇÝ: ê³Ï³ÛÝ ³ÛÅÙ ¿É, after the Ani Cathedral, was severely damaged by the ëáíáñáõÃÛ³Ý Ñ³Ù³Ó³ÛÝ, ï»Õ³óÇÝ»ñÁ ù³Õ³ùÁ earthquake but is currently being restored. Gyumri’s »ñµ»ÙÝ ÏáãáõÙ »Ý ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ ³Ýí³ÝáõÙáí` Central Square, which lay untouched for 20 years, will È»ÝÇݳϳÝ: soon have a new look, with monuments, fountains and a playground. ²Ûëûñ, »ñÏñ³ß³ñÅÇó 20 ï³ñÇ ³Ýó, ¶ÛáõÙñÇÝ ÏñÏÇÝ áïùÇ ¿ ϳݷÝáõÙ, ãÝ³Û³Í ïÝï»ëáõÃÛáõÝÁ ¹»é¨ë Gyumri is beginning to regain its reputation as a ³é³í»É³å»ë ϳËí³Í ¿ ³ñﳷݳ ³ß˳ï³ÝùÇ cultural cente r. Among its many museums are the Ù»ÏݳÍÝ»ñÇ í³ëï³ÏÝ»ñÇó: Æñ³Ï³Ý³óíáõÙ »Ý Museum of Folk Architecture and Living, the Shirak í»ñ³Ï³éáõóÙ³Ý É³Ûݳͳí³É ³ß˳ï³ÝùÝ»ñ: Museum of Regional Studies, the Avetik Isahakyan ²ÝÇÇ ï³×³ñÇ ûñÇݳÏáí ϳéáõóí³Í ëµ. ²Ù»Ý³÷ñÏÇ㠻ϻջóÇÝ, áñ ËÇëï ïáõÅ»É ¿ñ Musuem (built in the poet’s home) and the »ñÏñ³ß³ñÅÇó, Ý»ñϳÛáõÙë í»ñ³Ï³Ý·ÝíáõÙ ¿: Aslamazyan Sisters’ Museum, which contains a ¶ÛáõÙñÇÇ Ï»ÝïñáÝ³Ï³Ý Ññ³å³ñ³ÏÁ, áñï»Õ Ùáï collection of art donated by Soviet era artists. GYUMRI 98 ¶ÛáõÙñáõ ³é³çÇÝ Ã³ïñáÝÁ / Gyumri’s first theater. 20 ï³ñÇ áãÇÝã ã¿ñ ³ñí»É, ßáõïáí Ýáñ ï»ëù Ïáõݻݳ` Ñáõß³ñÓ³ÝÝ»ñáí, ß³ïñí³ÝÝ»ñáí ¨ Ù³ÝÏ³Ï³Ý Ë³Õ³Ññ³å³ñ³Ïáí:

¶ÛáõÙñÇÝ ÏñÏÇÝ í»ñ³ÍíáõÙ ¿ Ùß³ÏáõóÛÇÝ Ï»ÝïñáÝÇ: ²Ûëï»ÕÇ µ³½Ù³ÃÇí óݷ³ñ³ÝÝ»ñÇó ϳñ»ÉÇ ¿ Ýᯐ ¶ÛáõÙñÇÇ ÅáÕáíñ¹³Ï³Ý ׳ñï³ñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý ¨ ù³Õ³ù³ÛÇÝ Ï»Ýó³ÕÇ, ÞÇñ³Ç »ñÏñ³·Çï³Ï³Ý óݷ³ñ³ÝÝ»ñÁ, ²í»ïÇù Æë³Ñ³Ï³Û³ÝÇ ¨ ²ëɳٳ½Û³Ý ùáõÛñ»ñÇ ïáõÝ- óݷ³ñ³ÝÝ»ñÁ, áñï»Õ å³ÑíáõÙ »Ý ËáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ ßñç³ÝÇ ÝϳñÇãÝ»ñÇ Ñ³í³ù³ÍáõÝ»ñÁ:

ö³é³ïáÝÝ»ñÁ, ѳٻñ·Ý»ñÁ ¨ óáõó³Ñ³Ý¹»ëÝ»ñÁ ß³ñáõݳÏáõÙ »Ý ¶ÛáõÙñÇÇ Ñ³ñáõëï Ùß³ÏáõóÛÇÝ ³í³Ý¹áõÛÃÝ»ñÁ: ²Ù»Ý ï³ñÇ ÑáõÝÇëÇ 1-Çݪ ºñ»Ë³Ý»ñÇ ä³ßïå³ÝáõÃÛ³Ý ÙÇç³½·³ÛÇÝ ûñÁ, ù³Õ³ùÝ ³ßËáõųÝáõÙ ¿: ²Ýó ¿ Ï³óíáõÙ ßù»ñÃ, ϳ½Ù³Ï»ñåíáõÙ »Ý µ³óûÃÛ³ ѳٻñ·Ý»ñ ¨ Մհեր ØÏñïãÛ³ÝÇ Ñáõß³ñÓ³ÝÁ / ½³Ý³½³Ý ³ÛÉ ïáݳϳï³ñáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñ: Statue of actor, Mher Mkrtchyan. 1998Ã-Çó Ç í»ñ, »ñÏáõ ï³ñÇÝ Ù»Ï, ù³Õ³ùÁ ÑÛáõñÁÝϳÉáõÙ ¿ ¶ÛáõÙñÇÇ Å³Ù³Ý³Ï³ÏÇó ³ñí»ëïÇ Photo © Anna Davtyan Photo ©

Festivals, concerts and art exhibitions continue the rich traditions of Gyumri’s cultural heritage. The city comes to life every year on June 1, Universal Children’s Day, with a parade, outdoor concerts and a variety of festivities organized by the municipality. Every two years since 1998, the city has hosted the Gyumri International Biennial of Contemporary Art, showcasing unique artistic talents from Gyumri and around the world. To kick off Biennial 2008, there was a special performance by two generations of Bambir, a famous folk-rock band that originated in Gyumri in the 1970s and is carried on in its modern incarnation by the sons of the band members.

Another gem to emerge from Gyumri is the internationally acclaimed Kohar Symphony Orchestra and Choir, famous for its innovative renditions of Armenian classics. The ensemble has had successful performances around the world, including Cyprus, ²Ý»Ï¹áïÝ»ñÇ Ñ»ñáë äáÉá½ ØáõÏáõãÁ / Poloz Mukuch, the subject of countless Gyumri jokes. Lebanon, Russia, and a breakout performance in 2007 in New York’s Carnegie Hall. Traditional dancing is

GYUMRI 100 ÙÇç³½·³ÛÇÝ ´Ç»Ý³É»Ý, áñï»Õ óáõó³¹ñíáõÙ »Ý ¶ÛáõÙñÇÇó ¨ ³ß˳ñÑÇ ï³ñµ»ñ »ñÏñÝ»ñÇó µ³½Ù³ÃÇí ³ñí»ëï³·»ïÝ»ñÇ ³ß˳ï³ÝùÝ»ñ: 2008Ã. ´Ç»Ý³É»Ç µ³óÙ³Ý ³ñ³ñáÕáõÃÛáõÝÁ Ý߳ݳíáñí»ó ´³ÙµÇé ýáÉÏ-éáù »ñ³Åßï³ËÙµÇ »ñÏáõ ë»ñáõݹݻñÇ Ñ³ïáõÏ »ÉáõÛÃáí (1970Ã. ¶ÛáõÙñÇáõÙ ëï»ÕÍí³Í ËáõÙµ, áñÝ ³ÛÅÙ »ñÏñáñ¹ ÏÛ³Ýù ¿ ëï³ó»É ËÙµÇ ÑÇÙݳ¹ÇñÝ»ñÇ áñ¹ÇÝ»ñÇ ßÝáñÑÇí): ¶ÛáõÙñÇáõÙ ÍÝáõݹ ³é³Í ÙÛáõë ½³ñ¹Á ÙÇç³½·³ÛÇÝ ×³Ý³ãáõÙ ëï³ó³Í ¶áѳñ ëÇÙýáÝÇÏ Ýí³·³ËáõÙµÝ áõ »ñ·ã³ËáõÙµÝ ¿ª ѳÛïÝÇ Ñ³Û ¹³ë³Ï³ÝÝ»ñÇ Çñ ųٳݳϳÏÇó Ùß³ÏáõÙÝ»ñáí: ÊáõÙµÁ ѳçáÕáõÃÛ³Ùµ ¿ ѳݹ»ë »Ï»É ³ß˳ñÑÇ ï³ñµ»ñ »ñÏñÝ»ñáõÙª ÎÇåñáëáõÙ, Èǵ³Ý³ÝáõÙ, èáõë³ëï³ÝáõÙ, ÇëÏ 2007Ã. ÷³ÛÉáõÝ »ÉáõÛà ¿ áõÝ»ó»É ÜÛáõ ÚáñùÇ ø³ñÝ»·Ç ÐáÉáõÙ: ²í³Ý¹³Ï³Ý å³ñÁ ÝáõÛÝå»ë ³ßËáõÛųÝáõÙ ¿ ¶ÛáõÙñÇáõÙª ßÝáñÑÇí ³Ù»Ý³ÑÇÝ áõ ׳ݳãí³Í ²Õ³ëÇ Þ³µáÛ³ÝÇ êï»÷³Ý Þ³ÑáõÙÛ³ÝÇ ³Ý¹ñÇÝ / Statue of communist leader, Stepan Shahumyan. ÅáÕáíñ¹³Ï³Ý å³ñÇ Ñ³ÙáõÛÃÇ: ì»ñ³Ï³éáõóÙ³Ý ·áñÍÁÝóóÇ áõ Ùß³ÏáõóÛÇÝ ÏÛ³ÝùÇ ³ßËáõųóÙ³Ý Ñ»ï Ù»Ïï»Õ ù³Õ³ùÇ Photo © Raffi Niziblian Photo © Raffi ÏÛ³ÝùÁ Ñ»ï½Ñ»ï» ¹³éÝáõÙ ¿ ³í»ÉÇ Ñ³Ý·Çëï:

alive and well in Gyumri, with troupes like the Aghassi Shaboyan Folk Dance Ensemble, one of the city’s old- est standing and most renowned dance ensembles.

With reconstruction well under way and cultural life resuming its pace, life in Gyumri is slowly becoming more relaxed. Gyumretsis, known for their hospitality and playful sense of humor, maintain their gentle demeanor despite years of unimaginable hardship. They live with the hope that one day, the borders will open and Gyumri will once again enjoy the economic and cultural prosperity of its storied past.

ÐáíѳÝÝ»ë ÞÇñ³½Ç ³Ý¹ñÇÝ / Statue of poet, Hovhannes Shiraz. Photo © Arman Kocharian Photo ©

101 ԳՅՈՒՄՐԻ ²í»ïÇù Æë³Ñ³ÏÛ³ÝÇ ³ñÓ³ÝÁ / Statue of poet, Avetik Isahakyan. Photo © Arman Kocharian Photo ©

âÝ³Û³Í ï³ñÇÝ»ñÇ ¹Åí³ñáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÇݪ ·ÛáõÙñ»óÇÝ Ñ³ÛïÝÇ ¿ Çñ ÑÛáõñ³ëÇñáõÃÛ³Ùµ, ÑáõÙáñáí áõ The arts flourished µ³ñ»Ñ³µáõÛñ í»ñ³µ»ñÙáõÝùáí: during Gyumri’s belle ܳ ³åñáõÙ ¿, ÑáõÛë áõݻݳÉáí, áñ ÙÇ ûñ ë³ÑÙ³ÝÝ»ñÁ ϵ³óí»Ý ¨ ¶ÛáõÙñÇÝ Ïí³Û»ÉÇ époque and several ïÝï»ë³Ï³Ý áõ Ùß³ÏáõóÛÇÝ µ³ñ»Ï»óáõÃÛáõÝ, important Armenian ÇÝãå»ë Çñ ÷³é³íáñ ³ÝóÛ³ÉáõÙ: writers and musicians emerged from the city.

GYUMRI 102 Photo © Anna Davtyan ¶ÛáõÙñáõ ÅáÕáíñ¹³Ï³Ý ׳ñï³ñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý և Ï»Ýó³ÕÇ Ã³Ý·³ñ³Ý. ¹ñí³· ٻͳѳñáõëï ÒÇÃáÕóÛ³ÝÝ»ñÇ ïÝÇó / The Museum of Folk Architecture and Living, built in a 19th century home. Photo © Arman Kocharian Photo ©

ü³ÛïáÝÁª óݷ³ñ³ÝáõÙ / Traditional carriage in museum display. Photo © Anna Davtyan Photo ©

GYUMRI 104

Gyumretsis, known for their hospitality and playful sense of humor, live with the hope that they will once again enjoy the economic and cultural prosperity of their storied past. Photo © Arman Kocharian Photo © ՇՈՒՇԻ ՇՈՒՇԻ S H U S H I Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo © Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo ©

ԲԵՐԴԱՔԱՂԱՔ / FORTRESS CITY

ÌáíÇ Ù³Ï»ñ¨áõÛÃÇó 1500Ù µ³ñÓñáõÃÛ³Ý íñ³ Perched high atop a solid rock platform at 1500 ·ïÝíáÕ ÑëÏ³Û³Ï³Ý Å³Ûé³µ»ÏáñÇ íñ³ Íí³ñ³Í meters above sea level, Shushi is geographically ÞáõßÇÝ µÝ³Ï³Ý ³Ùñáó ¿ ÑÇß»óÝáõÙ: ø³Õ³ùÁ positioned in a natural fortress. The city is situated on ·ïÝíáõÙ ¿ Õ³ñ³µ³ÕÛ³Ý É»éݳß˳ñÑáõÙª Øé³íÇ the eastern plateau of Nagorno Karabagh’s Mravi É»éݳßÕóÛÇ ³ñ¨»ÉÛ³Ý µ³ñÓñ³í³Ý¹³ÏÇ íñ³, ¨ mountain chain and is surrounded by deep gorges on »ñ»ù ÏáÕÙ»ñÇó ßñç³÷³Ïí³Í ¿ ËáñÁ ÏÇñ×»ñáí: three sides. Evidence of human life in the region dates ìϳÛáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñ ϳÝ, áñ Ù³ñ¹Ý ³Ûëï»Õ ³åñ»É ¿ back to the Bronze Age. ¹»é¨ë µñáݽ» ¹³ñáõÙ:

Shushi and all of Nagorno Karabagh (Artsakh, ÞáõßÇÝ ¨ áÕç È»éݳÛÇÝ Ô³ñ³µ³ÕÁ (å³ïÙ³Ï³Ý historically) were part of the Armenian Kingdom until ²ñó³Ë)ª ³ÙµáÕç ²ñ¨»ÉÛ³Ý Ð³Û³ëï³ÝÇ Ñ»ï ÙdzëÇÝ, ѳÛáó ó·³íáñáõÃÛ³Ý ÙÇ Ù³ëÝ ¿ÇÝ its fall in 387 AD, when they succumbed to Persian ϳ½ÙáõÙ` ÙÇÝ㨠¹ñ³ ³ÝÏáõÙÁ ù.Ñ. 387Ã. ä³ñëÇó rule along with the rest of Eastern Armenia. Despite Çß˳ÝáõÃÛ³Ý ¹»Ù å³ï»ñ³½ÙáõÙ: âÝ³Û³Í ä³ñëÇó centuries of Persian dominance, Artsakh maintained a ïÇñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ýը, ²ñó³Ëն այնուամենայնիվ certain level of autonomy and a strong sense of å³Ñå³Ý»É ¿ áñáß³ÏÇ ÇÝùݳí³ñáõÃÛáõÝ ¨ ³½·³ÛÇÝ Armenian identity. Khachkars (Armenian cross stones)

109 ՇՈՒՇԻ Photo © Anush Babajanyan î³ñµ»ñ ¹³ñ³ßñç³ÝÝ»ñáõÙ ù³Õ³ùÁ ѳÛïÝÇ ¿ »Õ»É áñå»ë ø³ñù³ñ, ÞÇϳù³ñ, ø³ñ³·ÉáõË ¨ Þáß, áñáÝù µáÉáñն էլ µÝáñáß »Ý É»éݳÛÇÝ ï³ñ³ÍùÇÝ: ²ñó³ËÛ³Ý µ³ñµ³éáí ßáß µ³éÁ Ý߳ݳÏáõÙ ¿ ͳéÇ ³Ù»Ý³»ñϳñ áõ ³Ù»Ý³¹³É³ñ ×ÛáõÕ: Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo © ´³Ý³ëï»ÕÍáõÑÇ Ü³Ã³í³ÝÇ ïáõÝÁ / Poetess Natavan's house. Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo ©

ÇÝùÝáñáßÙ³Ý Ñ½áñ ½·³óáõÙÁ: have been found along the northern and eastern ÞáõßÇÇ µ³ñÓñ³í³Ý¹³ÏÇ ÑÛáõëÇë³ÛÇÝ ¨ ³ñ¨»ÉÛ³Ý parts of the Shushi plateau that date back to the Ù³ë»ñáõÙ ·ïÝí»É »Ý 10-ñ¹ ¹³ñÇÝ Ãí³·ñíáÕ 10th century. ˳ãù³ñ»ñ: The region’s mountainous landscape has always been î³ñ³ÍùÇ É»éݳÛÇÝ É³Ý¹ß³ýïÁ Ùßï³å»ë µÝáñáᯐ an intrinsic part of its people’s identity. The renowned ¿ Ýñ³ ÅáÕáíñ¹ÇÝ: гÛïÝÇ §Ø»Ýù »Ýù, Ù»ñ ë³ñ»ñÁ¦ monument, “We and our mountains,” is Artsakh’s Ñáõß³ñÓ³ÝÁ ²ñó³ËÇ ³½·³ÛÇÝ ËáñÑñ¹³ÝÇßÝ ¿: national symbol. Several of its toponyms are directly ²ñó³ËÇ µÝ³Ï³í³Ûñ»ñÇ ³Ýí³ÝáõÙÝ»ñÇó ÙÇ associated with their geographic features, such as ù³ÝÇëÁ, ÇÝãåÇëÇù »Ý ø³ñÇÝï³Ï, ¶»ï³ß»Ý, ÞáõßÇ, Karintak (under the rock) and Getashen (built on the áñÁ ÝáõÛÝå»ë µ³ó³éáõÃÛáõÝ ã¿ ³ÛëåÇëÇ ëïáõ·³µ³ÝáõÃÛáõÝÇó, áõÕÕ³ÏÇáñ»Ý ϳåí³Í »Ý river). Shushi is no exception to this etymological Ýñ³ ³ß˳ñѳ·ñ³Ï³Ý ³é³ÝÓݳѳïÏáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÇ tradition. During different eras, the city was known as Ñ»ï: î³ñµ»ñ ¹³ñ³ßñç³ÝÝ»ñáõÙ ù³Õ³ùÁ ѳÛïÝÇ ¿ Karkar, Shika kar, Karaglukh and Shosh, all of which »Õ»É áñå»ë ø³ñù³ñ, ÞÇϳù³ñ, ø³ñ³·ÉáõË ¨ Þáß, refer to the rocky, mountainous landscape of the áñáÝù µáÉáñÝ ¿É µÝáñáß »Ý É»éݳÛÇÝ ï³ñ³ÍùÇÝ: region. Karaglukh, for example, translates to “rock” ²ñó³ËÛ³Ý µ³ñµ³éáí ßáß µ³éÁ Ý߳ݳÏáõÙ ¿ ͳéÇ (kar) and “head” (glukh). In Artsakh’s dialect, the word ³Ù»Ý³»ñϳñ áõ ³Ù»Ý³¹³É³ñ ×ÛáõÕ: Ü»ñϳÛáõÙë, “shosh” means the tallest and newest branch of a

SHUSHI 112 ì»ñÇÝ Ù½ÏÇÃ, ϳéáõóí³Í 1883Ã., ݳËÏÇÝáõÙ ·É˳íáñ Ù½ÏÇÃÁ, ³çÇó ù³Õ³ùÇ ÑÇÝ ßáõÏ³Ý ¿ The Upper Mosque, built in 1883, was once Shushi's central mosque. To its right stands the city's old market. Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo © ÞáõßÇÝ í³Õ 20-ñ¹ ¹³ñáõÙ / A view of Shushi in the early 20th century.

ÞáõßÇÇ ³ñ¨ÙïÛ³Ý Ù³ëáõÙ Þáß ³Ýí³Ýումով ·ÛáõÕ tree. Today, Shosh remains the name of a village just ϳ, áñï»Õ ѳÛïݳµ»ñí»É»Ý µ³½Ù³ÃÇí ÑÇݳíáõñó east of Shushi, where an abundance of ancient ˳ãù³ñ»ñ ¨ Ñáõß³ñÓ³ÝÝ»ñ: khachkars and monuments have been discovered.

Þáß ³Ýí³ÝáõÙÁ ѳí³Ý³µ³ñ í»ñ³÷áËí»É ¿ ÞáõßÇÇ The transformation of Shosh into Shushi was probably ³ÛÝ å³ï׳éáí, áñ ³ñó³ËÛ³Ý µ³ñµ³éáí §û¦ made because the “o” sound in the Artsakh dialect ÑÝãÛáõÝÁ ѳٳå³ï³ë˳ÝáõÙ ¿ ·ñ³Ï³Ý ѳۻñ»ÝÇ usually becomes “ou” in literary Armenian. And so, as §áõ¦ ÑÝãÛáõÝÇÝ: ºí ù³ÝÇ áñ ·ñ³Ï³Ý ѳۻñ»ÝÇ the influence of the literary Armenian language grew, ³½¹»óáõÃÛáõÝÁ ·Ý³Éáí ٻͳó»É ¿, ¹³É³ñ ×ÛáõÕ the city that resembled the tallest branch of a tree ÑÇß»óÝáÕ ù³Õ³ùÁ ѳÛïÝÇ ¿ ¹³ñÓ»É came to be known to its locals as Shushi. In the 18th ï»Õ³µÝ³ÏÝ»ñÇÝ áñå»ë ÞáõßÇ : 18-ñ¹ ¹³ñáõÙ, å³ñëÇó ö³Ý³Ñ ˳ÝÇ ïÇñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý ûñáù, century, under the rule of the Persian Khan Panah, ÞáõßÇÝ í»ñ³Ýí³Ýí»ó ö³Ý³Ñ³µ³¹, ë³Ï³ÛÝ ³Ûë Shushi was renamed Panahabad, but the name was ³Ýí³ÝáõÙÝ ³ÛÝù³Ý ûï³ñ ¿ñ ï»Õ³óÇÝ»ñÇ Ñ³Ù³ñ, just as alien to its locals as was Panah himself and it áñù³Ý ö³Ý³ÑÝ ÇÝùÁ, և չընդունվեց անգամ տեղի was not adopted even by the Muslims of the region. մահմեդականների կողմից: Shushi and all of Artsakh were under the rule of Per- sian Khans until 1805, when they were handed over to

115 ՇՈՒՇԻ ì³×³é³Ï³ÝáõÃÛáõÝ Trade & Commerce

¨ ³é¨ïáõñ Shushi’s geographic position – at the crossroads of Tabriz and ÞáõßÇÇ ³ß˳ñѳ·ñ³Ï³Ý ¹ÇñùÁ` ³íñǽÇ, Transcaucasia, Syunik and Karabagh – ²Ý¹ñÏáíϳëÇ, êÛáõÝÇùÇ áõ Ô³ñ³µ³ÕÇ favored the development of commerce, ˳ãÙ»ñáõÏáõÙ, ³í»ÉÇ Ù»Í Ñݳñ³íáñáõÃÛáõÝ ¿ñ which surpassed even craft production. ÁÝÓ»éÝáõÙ ½³ñ·³óÝ»Éáõ ³é¨ïáõñÁ, ù³Ý In the 1860s, trade became the main ³ñÑ»ëïÝ»ñÁ: 1860-³Ï³ÝÝ»ñÇÝ ³é¨ïáõñÁ occupation of Shushi residents. ßáõß»óÇÝ»ñÇ ÑÇÙÝ³Ï³Ý ½µ³ÕÙáõÝùÁ ¹³ñÓ³í: Trade relationships were forged with ²é¨ïñ³Ï³Ý ѳñ³µ»ñáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñ ëï»ÕÍí»óÇÝ distant countries and merchants carried Ñ»é³íáñ »ñÏñÝ»ñÇ Ñ»ï, ¨ ³é¨ïñ³Ï³ÝÝ»ñÁ goods from Europe, India and even ³åñ³ÝùÝ»ñ ¿ÇÝ Ý»ñÏñáõÙ ºíñáå³ÛÇó, Hong Kong. Ðݹϳëï³ÝÇó ¨, ÝáõÛÝÇëÏ, ÐáÝ· ÎáÝ·Çó:

ÞáõßÇÝ ¨ áÕç ²ñó³ËÁ ä³ñëÇó ˳ݻñÇ ïÇñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý ï³Ï »Ý »Õ»É ÙÇÝ㨠1805Ã, »ñµ ³Ûë ï³ñ³ÍùÝ»ñÝ ³Ýó³Ý èáõë³Ï³Ý ϳÛëñáõÃÛ³ÝÁ: Սա å³ßïáÝապես արձանագրí»ó 1813Ã. կնքված Many of Shushi’s Գյուլիստանի åÛٳݳ·ñáí: èáõë³Ï³Ý Armenians came to ïÇñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý Ý»ñùá ÞáõßÇÝ Ùß³ÏáõóÛÇÝ áõ ïÝï»ë³Ï³Ý ͳÕÏáõÙ ¿ñ ³åñáõÙ: 19-ñ¹ ¹³ñÁ settle there in the ù³Õ³ùÇ áëÏ» ¹³ñÝ ¿ñ` ù³Õ³ù³ÛÇÝ í»ñ»Éùáí, late 18th century. ѳë³ñ³Ï³Ï³Ý ÏÛ³Ýùáí, ³é¨ïñáí áõ They were mostly ³ñí»ëïÝ»ñáí: 1850-³Ï³Ý ÃÃ. ³ÛÝ 2000 ù³ñ» ïÝ»ñáí, í»ó »Ï»Õ»óÇÝ»ñáí, »ñÏáõ Ù½ÏÇÃÝ»ñáí, craftsmen and 380 ˳ÝáõÃÝ»ñáí, ÑÇÝ· իջևանատներով, Ûáà merchants. ·ÇÝ»ïÝ»ñáí, ãáñë ϳßíÇ í»ñ³Ùß³ÏÙ³Ý ¨ »ñÏáõ ë³ÉÇÏÝ»ñÇ ·áñͳñ³ÝÝ»ñáí, »ñ»ù Ý»ñϳïÝ»ñáí ¨ Ù»Ï Ù»ï³ùëÇ ·áñͳñ³Ýáí µÝ³Ï³í³Ûñ ¿ñ: ´Ý³ÏãáõÃÛ³Ý ÃÇíÁ 12.7 ѳ½³ñ ¿ñ, áñÇó 50% ѳۻñ ¿ÇÝ, ÇëÏ 50% óóñ-Ãáõñù»ñ: лﳷ³ ï³ëݳÙÛ³ÏÝ»ñáõÙ ³é³ç³ó³í ݳ¨ éáõë³Ï³Ý ÷áùñ³Ù³ëÝáõÃÛáõÝ: SHUSHI 116 Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo ©

117 ՇՈՒՇԻ Despite decades of neglect, the uniquely designed doorways to Shushi's stonewalled homes stand strong

among the ruins. Anush Babajanyan Photo © ÞáõßÇÇ ³ÙñáóÁ, Ó·í»Éáí 2,5 ÏÙ, ³Ù»Ý³Ý߳ݳϳÉÇÝ ¿ ²ñó³ËáõÙ, áñÁ ù³Õ³ùÁ ¹³ñÓÝում է ϳñ¨áñ é³½Ù³í³ñ³Ï³Ý Ï»ï: Spanning 2.5 km, Shushi’s fortress is the most significant in all of Artsakh, which makes the city an important strategic military point. Photo © Arsen Safaryan Photo © Þáõßí³ µ»ñ¹Á

ÞáõßÇÝ Ñ³ÛïÝÇ ¿ å³ïÙáõÃÛ³ÝÁ áñå»ë ù³Õ³ù- ³Ùñáó: Þ³ï Ùßáõßáï ¿ ³ÛÝ Å³Ù³Ý³Ï³ßñç³ÝÁ, »ñµ ϳéáõóí»É »Ý ù³Õ³ùÇ ³é³çÇÝ å³ßïå³Ý³Ï³Ý ³ÙñáóÝ»ñÁ, ë³Ï³ÛÝ ըստ áñáß å³ïÙ³µ³ÝÝ»ñÇ Ù»Ïݳµ³ÝáõÃÛ³Ùµ, 6-ñ¹ ¹³ñÇ å³ñëÇó Êáëñáí ²ÝáõßÇñí³Ý ³ñù³Ý Ññ³Ù³Ûել է í»ñ³Ï³éáõó»É ³Û¹ ï³ñ³ÍùáõÙ å³ñÇëåÁ ¨ ÙÇ ß³ñù ³ÛÉ Ñ³ÛÏ³Ï³Ý ³ÙñáóÝ»ñ` ϳÛëñáõÃÛ³Ý ÑÛáõëÇë³ÛÇÝ Ñ³ïí³ÍÁ ѽáñ³óÝ»Éáõ ѳٳñ:

²ÛÝ, ÇÝã å³Ñå³Ýí»É ¿ ³Ûëûñ ÞáõßÇÇ ³ÙñáóÇց, ϳéáõóí»É ¿ 18-ñ¹ ¹³ñáõÙ` å³ßïå³Ý»Éáõ ѳٳñ ù³Õ³ùÇ Ëáó»ÉÇ Ñ³ïí³ÍÝ»ñÁ Ýí³×áÕÝ»ñÇ Ñ³ñÓ³ÏáõÙÝ»ñÇó: ÞáõßÇÇ ³ÙñáóÁ, ձգվելով 2,5 ÏÙ, ³Ù»Ý³Ý߳ݳϳÉÇÝ ¿ ²ñó³ËáõÙ ¨ ¹³ñÓÝáõÙ ¿ ù³Õ³ùÁ ϳñ¨áñ é³½Ù³í³ñ³Ï³Ý Ï»ï: ÞáõßÇÇ í»ñ³ÑëÏáõÙÝ ³é³Ýóù³ÛÇÝ ¹»ñ ¿ ϳï³ñ»É í»ñçÇÝ 2 ¹³ñ»ñÇ ÁÝóóùáõÙ ï³ñ³Í³ßñç³ÝáõÙ ï»ÕÇ áõÝ»óáÕ µáÉáñ ѳϳٳñïáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÇ ³ñ¹ÛáõÝùáõÙ:

A Mighty Fortress

Throughout history, Shushi has been known as a fortress city. It remains unclear when exactly the city’s first fortified walls were built, but some historians believe that the 6th century Persian King Khosrov Anushirvan ordered the restoration of the walls and of several other Armenian fortresses in order to strengthen the northern part of his empire.

What remains today of Shushi’s forti fied walls was built in the 18th century to seal off the few vulnerable points that could have allowed invaders to enter the city. Spanning 2.5 km, Shushi’s fortress is the most significant in all of Artsakh, which makes the city an important strategic military point. Control over Shushi Photo © Arsen Safaryan Photo © has been pivotal in determining the outcome of every conflict affecting the region over the past two centuries.

121 ՇՈՒՇԻ Photo © Arsen Safaryan Shushi Museum of History and Regional Studies is currently undergoing restoration. Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo © 18-ñ¹ ¹³ñÇ í»ñçáõÙ ÞáõßÇáõÙ µÝ³ÏáõÃÛáõÝ Ñ³ëï³ï³Í ѳۻñÇó ß³ï»ñÁ ͳ·áõÙáí ²·áõÉÇëÇó, ܳËÇ稳ÝÇó, Þ³ÑÏ»ñïÇó, Ø»ÕñÇÇó ¨ ÞáßÇó ¿իÝ: Üñ³Ýù ٻͳٳë³Ùµ ³ñÑ»ëï³íáñÝ»ñ áõ í³×³é³Ï³ÝÝ»ñ ¿ÇÝ: гۻñÁ µÝ³ÏíáõÙ ¿ÇÝ ù³Õ³ùÇ í»ñÇÝ Ñ³ïí³ÍáõÙ: Üñ³Ýó óճٳë»ñÝ áõ »Ï»Õ»óÇÝ»ñÁ ÏñáõÙ ¿ÇÝ Çñ»Ýó ÍÝݹ³í³Ûñ»ñÇ ³ÝáõÝÝ»ñÁ:

1870-³Ï³Ý ÃÃ., ³ñÑ»ëïÝ»ñÁ ½³ñ·³ÝáõÙ ¿ÇÝ ÞáõßÇáõÙ: ²í»ÉÇ ù³Ý 500 ³ñÑ»ëï³íáñÝ»ñ (¹³ñµÇÝÝ»ñ, ¹»ñÓ³ÏÝ»ñ, çáõÉѳÏÝ»ñ, Ë»ó»·áñÍÝ»ñ, ³ï³ÕÓ³·áñÍÝ»ñ ¨ ÏáßϳϳñÝ»ñ) ¿ÇÝ ³åñáõÙ ù³Õ³ùáõÙ: ÞÇݳñ³ñáõÃÛ³Ý í»ñ»ÉùÇ Ñ»ï ³ñ³· ³×áõÙ ¿ñ ßÇݳñ³ñ í³ñå»ïÝ»ñÇ` ù³ñï³ßÝ»ñÇ, í³é³ñ³Ý³·áñÍÝ»ñÇ, åÕÝÓ³·áñÍÝ»ñÇ áõ ÃÇûճ·áñÍÝ»ñÇ å³Ñ³Ýç³ñÏÁ: ¶áñ·³·áñÍáõÃÛáõÝÁ ϳݳÝó µÝáñáß ³ñÑ»ëï ¿ñª ï³ñ³Íí³Í ÞáõßÇÇ Ñ³Û ¨ Ù³ÑÙ»¹³Ï³Ý ϳݳÝó ßñç³ÝáõÙ: Üñ³Ýó ·áñ·»ñÁ É³í³·áõÛÝÝ ¿ÇÝ ï³ñ³Í³ßñç³ÝáõÙ ¨ í³×³éíáõÙ ¿ÇÝ µáÉáñ ѳñ³ÏÇó ù³Õ³ùÝ»ñáõÙ: Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo ©

the Russian Empire. This was made o fficial in 1813 by the Treaty of Gulistan. Under the Russians, Shushi was allowed to flourish culturally and economically. The 19th century was the city’s golden age, with a boom in urban development, community life, trade and the arts. By the 1850s it was home to close to 2000 stone residential buildings, six churches, two mosques, 380 stores, five inns, seven pubs, four leather processing factories, two tile factories, three dye houses and one silk factory. The population at the time was 12.7 thousand, 50% of whom were Armenians and 50% Tatar-Turks. In the coming decades, a small Russian minority would also develop.

Many of Shushi’s Armenians came to settle there in the late 18th century, hailing from Agulis, Nakhijevan, Shahkert, Meghri and Shosh. They were mostly crafts- men and merchants. The Armenians lived in the upper part of the city. Their districts and churches were often Photo © Raffi Niziblian Photo © Raffi

SHUSHI 124 ²·áõÉ»óáó, Ô³½³Ýã»óáó, Ø»Õñ»óáó »Ï»Õ»óÇÝ»ñÁ ¨ ÞáõßÇÇ Ã³ïñáÝÁ ·»ñÇßËáÕ ¿ÇÝ ù³Õ³ùÇ Ñ³Ù³Ûݳå³ïÏ»ñÇ íñ³ մինչև 1905թ. Aguletsots, Ghazanchetsots and Meghretsots Churches, and the Shushi Theater dominated the city's landscape before 1905. ²·áõÉ»óáó »Ï»Õ»óÇÝ 1905Ã. Ïáïáñ³ÍÝ»ñÇó Ñ»ïá / Aguletsots Church, after the massacres of 1905. Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo ©

127 ՇՈՒՇԻ ÞáõßÇÝ Ë³í³ñáõÙ

19-ñ¹ ¹³ñÇ Ï»ë»ñÇó ÙÇÝ㨠20-ñ¹ ¹³ñÇ ëÏǽµÁ ÞáõßÇÝ í³Û»É»ó ѳñ³µ»ñ³Ï³Ý ˳ճÕáõÃÛáõÝ, Ùß³ÏáõóÛÇÝ í»ñ»Éù ¨ ïÝï»ë³Ï³Ý µ³ñ»Ï»óáõÃÛáõÝ, ë³Ï³ÛÝ 1905Ã. ѳÛ-óóñ³Ï³Ý µ³ËáõÙÝ»ñÁ óñ»óÇÝ ÞáõßÇÇ Ù»Ï¹³ñÛ³ ³Ý¹áññÁ: 1905Ã. å³Ý-ÃáõñùǽÙÇ ¨ å³Ý-ÇëɳÙǽÙÇ ·³Õ³÷³ñ³ËáëáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÁ, áñáÝù ï³ëݳÙÛ³ÏÝ»ñ ß³ñáõÝ³Ï Ù»Í ï³ñ³ÍáõÙ áõÝ»ÇÝ ÂáõñùdzÛáõÙ, ï³ñ³Íí»óÇÝ ÞáõßÇÇ Ã³Ã³ñ-Ãáõñù³Ï³Ý µÝ³ÏãáõÃÛ³Ý Ù»ç: Նույն թվի ÷»ïñí³ñÇÝ ´³ùíáõÙ ³ñ¹»Ý ÁݹѳñáõÙÝ»ñ ¿ÇÝ »Õ»É ѳۻñÇ ¨ Ãáõñù»ñÇ ÙÇç¨: ²Ùé³ÝÁ`û·áëïáëÇ 16- ÇÝ, Éáõñç µ³ËáõÙÝ»ñ ï»ÕÇ áõÝ»ó³Ý ÞáõßÇáõÙ, áñáÝù 層óÇÝ 6 ûñ: ºñÏáõ ÏáÕÙ»ñÝ ¿É Éáõñç íݳëÝ»ñ Ïñ»óÇÝ, ÇëÏ ù³Õ³ùÁ ÑÇÙÝáíÇÝ ³í»ñí»ó ѳßí³Í ûñ»ñÇ ÁÝóóùáõÙ: гÛÏ³Ï³Ý Ã³Õ³Ù³ë»ñáõ٠ѳñÛáõñ³íáñ ïÝ»ñ, ˳ÝáõÃÝ»ñ, Ùß³ÏáõÛÃÇ Ï»ÝïñáÝÝ»ñ ¨ í³ñã³Ï³Ý ß»Ýù»ñ ÙáËñ³ÏáõÛï»ñÇ í»ñ³Íí»óÇÝ:

1918Ã. èáõë³Ï³Ý γÛëñáõÃÛ³Ý ÷Éáõ½áõÙÇó Ñ»ïá г۳ëï³ÝÝ áõ ²¹ñµ»ç³ÝÁ ³ÝÏ³Ë Ñéã³Ïí»óÇÝ, ¨ ï³ñ³Íù³ÛÇÝ տարաձայÝáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñ ëÏëí»óÇÝ Ýáñ ѳë³ñ³Ï³ñ·»ñÇ ÙÇç¨` Ù³ëݳíáñ³å»ë ܳËÇ稳ÝÇ, êÛáõÝÇùÇ ¨ ²ñó³ËÇ ßáõñç: 1920Ã. Ãáõñù³Ï³Ý áõÅ»ñÁ ·ñ³í»óÇÝ ÞáõßÇÝ ¨ Ññ³Ññ»óÇÝ µ³ËáõÙÝ»ñ ï»Õ³µÝ³Ï óóñÝ»ñÇ ¨ Ñ³Û ³½·³µÝ³ÏãáõÃÛ³Ý ÙÇç¨: سñïÇ 22-26-Ç ½ÇÝí³Í µ³ËáõÙÁ í»ñ³Íí»ó ù³Õ³ùÇ Ñ³Û ³½·³µÝ³ÏãáõÃÛ³Ý ¹»Ù ¹³Å³Ý Ïáïáñ³ÍÇ: 1914Ã. ³í»ÉÇ ù³Ý 22000 ѳۻñ ¿ÇÝ µÝ³ÏíáõÙ ÞáõßÇáõÙ, áñÁ ϳ½ÙáõÙ ¿ñ ù³Õ³ùÇ µÝ³ÏãáõÃÛ³Ý 52%: 1921Ã. Ùݳó»É ¿ÇÝ Ãíáí 300 ѳۻñ` ù³Õ³ùÇ µÝ³ÏãáõÃÛ³Ý 3%:

Early 20th Century: Shushi’s Dark Years

Between the 1820s and the early 1900s, Shushi enjoyed almost a century of relative peace, cultural growth and economic prosperity, but this period of growth and enlightenment came to a grinding halt in 1905. By this time, the ideologies of Pan-Turkism and Pan-Islamism, which had been widespread in Turkey for decades, had begun to infiltrate the Tatar-Turkish population of Shushi. Clashes between Turks and Armenians had already taken place in Baku that February. With tensions high, conflicts broke out in the Shushi area in the summer of 1905, finally erupting on August 16 and lasting six days. Significant losses were suffered on both sides and the city that took a century to build was ruined in a matter of days. Hundreds of homes, shops cultural centers and administrative buildings in the Armenian district were burnt to the ground.

In 1918, upon the collapse of the Russian Empire, Armenia and Azerbaijan each declared independence and the new regimes quarrelled over their common borders, especially those of Nakhijevan, Syunik and Nagorno Karabagh. Turkish forces occupied Shushi and instigated further clashes between the Tatar-Turks and the Armenians. Between March 22 and 26 of 1918, what began as an armed conflict turned into the merciless slaughter of the city’s Armenian population. In 1914, over 22,000 Armenians lived in Shushi, comprising 52% of the city’s population. By 1921, only 300 (3% of the city’s population) remained.

SHUSHI 128 è»³É³Ï³Ý áõëáõÙݳñ³ÝÁ ÞáõßÇÇ ³Ù»Ý³³é³ç³¹»Ù áõëáõÙÝ³Ï³Ý Ñ³ëï³ïáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÇó ¿ñ, áñï»Õ Ó¨³íáñíáõÙ ¿ÇÝ ëáóÇ³É³Ï³Ý ¨ ù³Õ³ù³Ï³Ý ·³Õ³÷³ñÝ»ñÁ: The State Real College was once Shushi's premier educational institution, where social and political ideas were forged. Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo © êÇñ³ÝáõÛßÁ ØÏñïÇã ʳݹ³ÙÇñÛ³ÝÇ ÁÝï³ÝÇùÇ Ñ»ï ÐÝáïÇ ÏÇñ×áõÙ / Mkrtich Khandamiryan with his family and actress Siranush, at Hnot Canyon.

ÞáõßÇÇ ³é³çÇÝ Å³Ù³Ý³Ï³ÏÇó ¹åñáóÁ µ³óí»ó named after their towns of origin. 1823Ã. ßí»Ûó³ñ³óÇ ÙÇëÇáÝ»ñÝ»ñÇ ÏáÕÙÇó: Þáõïáí, By the 1870s, crafts were flourishing in Shushi. Over 1838Ã. ÑÇÙÝí»ó Ô³ñ³µ³ÕÇ Ñ³ÛÏ³Ï³Ý Ã»Ù³Ï³Ý 500 craftsmen of various profiles (blacksmiths, tailors, ¹åñáóÁ: ¸åñáóÇ ßñç³Ý³í³ñïÝ»ñÇó »Ý ³ÛÝåÇëÇ weavers, potters, carpenters, shoemakers, etc.) lived ѳÛïÝÇ ·ñáÕÝ»ñ áõ Ùï³íáñ³Ï³ÝÝ»ñ, ÇÝãåÇëÇù »Ý in the city. With the housing boom and rapid urban íÇå³ë³Ý Øáõñ³ó³ÝÁ (1854-1908), ¹»ñ³ë³Ý, development of this era, construction craftsmen – é»ÅÇëáñ ¨ ¹ñ³Ù³ïáõñ· ì³Õ³ñß ì³Õ³ñßÛ³ÝÁ stonemasons, oven-setters, coppersmiths and tin- (1894-1959), áñÁ 1954Ã. ëï³ó³í ÊêÐØ smiths – were in high demand. Carpet weaving was a ÅáÕáíñ¹³Ï³Ý ³ñïÇëïÇ ÏáãáõÙ, å³ïÙ³µ³Ý, unique craft reserved for the women and was ùÝݳ¹³ï, åñáý»ëáñ ¨ ·ñáÕ È»áÝ (1860-1932)` practiced by both the Armenian and Muslim women of ѳÛïÝÇ Çñ §ä³ïÙáõÃÛáõÝ Ñ³Ûáó¦ ³ß˳ïáõÃÛ³Ùµ, áñÁ ÙÇÝã ûñë å³Ñå³Ý»É ¿ Çñ ·Çï³Ï³Ý ³ñÅ»ùÁ: Shushi. Their carpets were considered the best in the ÞáõßÇÇ µÝ³ÏÇãÝ»ñÇ Ëݹñ³Ýùáí 1914Ã. ݳ ·ñ»ó region and were sold in all neighboring cities. ݳ¨ Ô³ñ³µ³ÕÇ Ñ³ÛÏ³Ï³Ý Ã»Ù³Ï³Ý ¹åñáóÇ å³ïÙáõÃÛáõÝÁ: The first modern school in Shushi was opened in 1823 by Swiss missionaries. Soon thereafter, in 1838, the Armenian Diocesan School of Karabakh was founded.

131 ՇՈՒՇԻ Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo © Anush Babajanyan ²Ûë ßñç³ÝáõÙ ÞáõßÇáõÙ ÑÇÙÝí»óÇÝ Ññ³ï³ñ³Ï- ãáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñ, ¨ ù³Õ³ùÝ ³ñ³·áñ»Ý ·É˳íáñ Ññ³ï³ñ³Ïã³Ï³Ý Ï»ÝïñáÝÇ ×³Ý³ãáõÙ Ó»éù µ»ñ»ó: Â»Ù³Ï³Ý ¹åñáóÇ ïå³·ñ³ïáõÝÁ ¾çÙdzÍÝÇ ïå³·ñ³ïÝÇó Ñ»ïá »ñÏñáñ¹Ý ¿ñ Çñ Ù»ÍáõÃÛ³Ùµ ³ÙµáÕç ²ñ¨»ÉÛ³Ý Ð³Û³ëï³ÝáõÙ: ÞáõßÇÇ Ññ³ï³ñ³Ïã³Ï³Ý ·áñÍն ³ÛÝåÇëÇ µ³ñÓñ í³ñϳÝÇß ¿ñ í³Û»ÉáõÙ, áñ ѳÛïÝÇ ·ñáÕ ð³ýýÇÝ áñáß»ó ³ÛÝï»Õ ϳï³ñ»É Çñ §Ê»ÝÃÁ¦ í»åÇ ³é³çÇÝ ïå³·ñáõÃÛáõÝÁ:

ÞáõßÇÇ ³é³çÇÝ å³ñµ»ñ³Ï³ÝÁ` §Ð³ÛÏ³Ï³Ý ³ß˳ñÑÁ¦ ÉáõÛë ï»ë³í 1874Ã.: лﳷ³ ï³ëݳÙÛ³ÏÝ»ñáõÙ ¹ñ³Ý ѳçáñ¹»óÇÝ ¨ë ÙÇ ù³ÝÇëÁ: ¸ñ³Ýó Ù»Í Ù³ëÁ ѳ۳ɻ½áõ ¿ր, ë³Ï³ÛÝ ÉáõÛë ¿ÇÝ ï»ëÝáõ٠ݳ¨ éáõë³É»½áõ å³ñµ»ñ³Ï³ÝÝ»ñ, áñáÝù Ù³ïã»ÉÇ ¿ÇÝ ³Ûɳ½·Ç ÁÝûñóáÕÝ»ñÇÝ ÝáõÛÝå»ë: ÞáõßÇÇ µÝ³ÏãáõÃÛáõÝÁ ï»Õ»Ï³óí³Í ¿ñ ÇÝãå»ë ѳÛÏ³Ï³Ý ³½·³ÛÇÝ, Ø»Õñ»óáó »Ï»Õ»óáõ µ³ÏáõÙ, í³Õ 20-ñ¹ ¹³ñ / ³ÛÝå»ë ¿É èáõë³ëï³ÝÇ ¨ ºíñáå³ÛÇ ÁÝóóÇÏ In the garden of Meghretsots Church, Éáõñ»ñÇ Ù³ëÇÝ: early 20th century.

Several prominent writers and academics graduated from this school, including novelist Muratsan êµ. Ô³½³Ýã»óáó ï³×³ñÇ Ùáï, í³Õ 21-ñ¹ ¹³ñ / (1854-1908), actor, director and playwright Vagharsh Near Ghazanchetsots Cathedral, early 21st century. Vagharshyan (1894-1959) who was named People’s Artist of the USSR in 1954 and Leo (1860-1932), a prominent historian, critic, professor and writer. Leo is best known for his History of Armenia, a vital and extensive historical reference used to this day. Upon the request of the people of Shushi, Leo wrote the History of the Armenian Diocesan School of Karabagh in 1914.

Printing houses were established in Shushi during this period, and the city quickly became known as a major publishing center. The printing house of the Diocesan School was the second largest in all of Eastern Armenia, after that of Echmiadzin, Armenia’s Holy See. Shushi’s publishing industry was reputed to be so excellent that the famous writer Raffi decided to publish the first edition of his novel, The Fool, there. Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo ©

SHUSHI 134

Signs of Turkification are evident in much of Shushi's architecture. Photo © Arsineh Khachikian Photo © ä»ï³Ï³Ý è»³É³Ï³Ý áõëáõÙݳñ³ÝÁ , áñï»Õ ¹³ë³ËáëáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÝ ³ÝóϳóíáõÙ ¿ÇÝ éáõë»ñ»Ý É»½íáí, ÑÇÙݳ¹ñí»É ¿ 1881Ã.: àõëáõÙݳñ³ÝÇ áõë³ÝáÕáõÃÛ³Ý ·»ñ³ÏßÇé Ù³ëÝ ³½·áõÃÛ³Ùµ ѳۻñ ¿ÇÝ: ØÇÝã Â»Ù³Ï³Ý ¹åñáóÁ ͳé³ÛáõÙ ¿ñ ³½·³ÛÇÝ, ѳÛñ»Ý³ëÇñ³Ï³Ý ·³Õ³÷³ñ³ËáëáõÃÛ³Ý ï³ñ³ÍÙ³ÝÁ, è»³É³Ï³Ý ¹åñáóÁ ½³ñ·³ó³í ëáóÇ³É³Ï³Ý ¨ ù³Õ³ù³Ï³Ý ·³Õ³÷³ñÝ»ñÇ Ó¨³íáñÙ³Ý áõÕÕáõÃÛ³Ùµ: è»³É³Ï³Ý áõëáõÙݳñ³ÝÇ »é³Ñ³ñÏ ß»ÝùÁ ÞáõßÇÇ ³ÛÝ ÷áùñ³ÃÇí ׳ñï³ñ³å»ï³Ï³Ý ϳéáõÛóÝ»ñÇó ¿, áñáÝù ÙÇÝã ûñë å³Ñå³Ýí»É »Ý 20-ñ¹ ¹³ñÇ ÁݹѳñáõÙÝ»ñÇó Ñ»ïá: Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo © ÞáõßÇÇ Ñ³Û»ñÝ ³é³çÇÝÝ»ñÇó ¿ÇÝ ²ñ¨»ÉÛ³Ý Ð³Û³ëï³ÝáõÙ, áñ ϳñ¨áñ»óÇÝ ÏñÃáõÃÛ³Ý ³ÝÑñ³Å»ßïáõÃÛáõÝÝ ³ÕçÇÏÝ»ñÇ Ñ³Ù³ñ: êµ. سñdz٠ûñÇáñ¹³ó í³ñųñ³ÝÁ µ³óí»ó 1864Ã. ¨ ѳݹÇë³ÝáõÙ ¿ñ ϳݳÝó ѳٳñ ³é³çÇÝ ¹åñáóÝ»ñÇó Ù»ÏÝ ²ñ¨»ÉÛ³Ý Ð³Û³ëï³ÝáõÙ: ´³óÇ ³Û¹ ÞáõßÇáõÙ ·áñÍáõÙ ¿ÇÝ

The first periodical in Shushi, Haykakan Ashkharh (Armenian World), appeared in 1874. Several others followed over the next few decades. Most of them were written in Armenian but some were in Russian, and were thus accessible to the hoto © Raffi Niziblian hoto © Raffi

P non-Armenians of Shushi. The city’s population was kept abreast of both Armenian national life and of current events in Russia and Europe.

The State Real College, where lectures were conducted in Russian, was established in 1881. The majority of Real College students were Armenians. While the Diocesan School served as a center for promoting national and patriotic ideology, the Real College was geared towards the forging of social and political ideas. The three-storied house of the Real College is one of the few buildings of its era to survive the destruction of Shushi’s historic architecture during 20th century conflicts. Photo © Raffi Niziblian Photo © Raffi

137 ՇՈՒՇԻ ¶áñ·³·áñÍáõÃÛáõÝ

20-ñ¹ ¹³ñÇ ëϽµáõÙ, Ïáïáñ³ÍÝ»ñÇ áõ ß³ñáõÝ³Ï³Ï³Ý ï»Õ³Ñ³ÝáõÙÝ»ñÇ å³ï׳éáí, ¹³¹³ñ»ó ӻ鳷áñÍ Ï³ñå»ïÝ»ñÇ áõ ·áñ·»ñÇ ³ñï³¹ñáõÃÛáõÝÁ ß³ï ѳÛÏ³Ï³Ý ù³Õ³ùÝ»ñáõÙ: ¶áñ·³·áñÍ³Ï³Ý ³ñí»ëïÇ ë»ñݹ»ë»ñáõݹ ÷á˳ÝóíáÕ ³í³Ý¹áõÛÃÁ ¹³¹³ñ»ó ·áñÍ»É ÁÝï³ÝÇùÝ»ñÇ Ù³ëݳïÙ³Ý ¨ Ë»ÕÙ³Ý ³ñ¹ÛáõÝùáõÙ:

ÆÝ㨿, Ô³ñ³µ³ÕÇ ·áñ·³·áñ ÍáõÃÛáõÝÁ, áñå»ë ³ñí»ëïÇ ï»ë³Ï ¨ ³ñ¹Ûáõݳµ»ñáõÃÛ³Ý áÉáñï, í»ñ³Ï³Ý·Ýí»ó ËáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ ßñç³ÝáõÙ: 19-ñ¹ ¹³ñáõÙ ÞáõßÇÇ ·áñ·»ñÁ É³í³·áõÛÝÝ ¿ÇÝ ï³ñ³Í³ßñç³ÝáõÙ ¨ í³×³éíáõÙ ¿ÇÝ µáÉáñ ѳñ³ÏÇó ù³Õ³ùÝ»ñáõÙ: 1907Ã-ÇÝ ÞáõßÇÇ ·áñ·³·áñÍ³Ï³Ý ý³µñÇϳÝ, áñï»Õ ³ß˳ïáõÙ ¿ñ 120 ÏÇÝ, ³ñï³¹ñáõÙ ¿ñ ï³ñ»Ï³Ý 600-700 ·áñ·, áñáÝù ٻͳٳë³Ùµ ³ñï³Ñ³ÝíáõÙ ¿ÇÝ ºíñáå³: ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ Å³Ù³Ý³Ï³ßñç³ÝáõÙ ý³µñÇÏ³Ý ï»Õ³÷áËí»ó êï»÷³Ý³Ï»ñï: Ü»ñϳÛáõÙë ÞáõßÇÇ Photo © Rostom Kuyumjian ѳñ³ÏÇó ·ÛáõÕ»ñáõÙ ³ñï³¹ñí³Í ӻ鳷áñÍ ·áñ·»ñÁ ѳÛïÝÇ »Ý Çñ»Ýó µ³ñÓñ áñ³Ïáí:

The Art of Carpet Weaving

By early 20th century, the production of hand-loomed rugs and carpets had all but come to a halt in most Armenian cities as a result of massacres and continuous dislocation. The art of weaving carpets was passed down from generation to generation, and the destruction and separation of families made it almost impossible for this tradition to continue. In Karabagh however, carpet weaving, as an art form and an industry, was upheld well into the Soviet era. In the 19th century, the carpets of Shushi were considered the best in the region and were sold in all neighboring cities. In 1907, the rug factory in Shushi employed 120 women who produced 600-700 rugs a year, most of which were exported to Europe. During the Soviet era, the factory was transported to Stepanakert. Today, handm ade rugs woven in the villages around Shushi are still popular and reputed for their high quality. SHUSHI 138 ݳ¨ ø³Õ³ù³ÛÇÝ ïÕ³óáó ¹åñáóÁ, »ñ»ù

19-ñ¹ ¨ 20-ñ¹ ¹³ñÇ ëϽµáõÙ ÞáõßÇáõÙ ÉáõÛë ѳÝñ³ÛÇÝ ¹åñáóÝ»ñ ¨ ÙÇ ß³ñù »ñÏë»é ï»ëÝáÕ å³ñµ»ñ³Ï³ÝÝ»ñÁ / Periodicals published in Shushi from ѳٳÛÝù³ÛÇÝ ¨ Ù³ëݳíáñ ¹åñáóÝ»ñ: the late 19th to the early 20th century. ÆÝãå»ë µÝáñáß ¿ ·ñ³·ÇïáõÃÛ³Ý áõ ÏñÃáõÃÛ³Ý µ³ñÓñ ٳϳñ¹³Ï áõÝ»óáÕ Ñ³ë³ñ³ÏáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÇÝ, 19-ñ¹ ¹³ñáõÙ ÞáõßÇáõÙ ³ñí»ëïÇ ½³ñ·³óáõÙÁ ëÏë»ó í»ñ»Éù ³åñ»É: ºñ³Åßï³Ï³Ý áÉáñïÝ Çñ»ÝÇó Ý»ñϳ۳óÝáõÙ ¿ñ ѳÛϳϳÝ, Ãáõñù³Ï³Ý ¨ å³ñëÏ³Ï³Ý Ù»Õ»¹ÇÝ»ñÇ ÙdzÓáõÉáõÙ, áñÇ å³ï׳éáí ù³Õ³ùÁ Ñ³×³Ë ÏáãáõÙ ¿ÇÝ §²Ý¹ñÏáíϳëÛ³Ý ÏáÝë»ñí³ïáñdz¦: ØÇ ß³ñù ׳ݳãí³Í »ñ³ÅÇßïÝ»ñ ÍÝí»É ¨ ݳËÝ³Ï³Ý »ñ³Åßï³Ï³Ý ÏñÃáõÃÛáõÝ »Ý ëï³ó»É ³Ûëï»Õ, ³Û¹ ÃíáõÙª ÏáÙåá½Çïáñ ¸³ÝÇ»É Ô³½³ñÛ³ÝÁ(1876-1958) ¨ ¹ÇñÇÅáñ ²É»ùë³Ý¹ñ Ø»ÉÇù-ö³ß³Û³ÝÁ (1905-1964):

1860-³Ï³ÝÝ»ñÇÝ ÙÇ ù³ÝÇ ëÇñáÕ³Ï³Ý Ã³ï»ñ³ËÙµ»ñ ϳ½Ù³íáñí»óÇÝ ÞáõßÇáõÙ, ݳ¨ ¹»ñ³ë³ÝÝ»ñ ¿ÇÝ Ññ³íÇñíáõÙ ÂÇýÉÇëÇó

The Armenians of Shushi were among the first in Eastern Armenia to recognize the importance of education for girls. S t. Mary’s Women’s Seminary was opened in 1864 and was one of the first schools exclusively for women in Eastern Armenia. In addition to these institutions, Shushi also had a Municipal Men’s School, three public schools, and a number of mixed community private schools.

As is typically the case when literacy and education are advanced in a society, the arts flourished in Shushi during the 19th century. The city had a lively music scene with a unique fusion of sounds from Armenian, Turkish and Persian musical cultures, which is why it was often called “the conservatory of Transcaucasia.” A number of prominent musicians were born and received their primary education in Shushi, including composer Daniel Ghazaryan (1876-1958) and conductor Alexander Melik-Pashayan (1905-1964).

139 ՇՈՒՇԻ λÝó³Õ³ÛÇÝ Çñ»ñ, 19-ñ¹ ¹³ñ / 19th century household items. Photo © Arsineh Khachikian Photo ©

In the 1860s, several amateur acting troupes were formed in Shushi and actors were often invited from Tbilisi to stage patriotic plays, dramas, and comedies. In 1891, Shushi resident and benefactor Mkrtich Khandamiryan founded the city’s first playhouse and in the following years, renowned actors from across Armenia would make guest appearances in Shushi. Productions were performed in Armenian, Russian and Turkish. In 1904, the Khandamiryan Theater staged the first ever performance of Othello in Turkish, with the participation of both Turkish and Armenian actors.

While the 19th century can be seen as Shushi’s golden age, the early 20th century was one of the darkest times in the city’s history. With the ideologies of Pan- Turkism and Pan-Islamism infiltrating the city’s Tatar- Turkish population, a series of brutal massacres broke Ô³ñ³µ³ÕÇ ï³ñ³½áí ³½Ýí³Ï³Ý ÏÇÝ, out between 1905 and 1920. Though Armenians and 20-ñ¹ ¹³ñÇ ëÏǽµ / Noblewoman in traditional Karabagh clothing, early 20th century. Turks had once coexisted peacefully in Shushi, by

SHUSHI 140 ѳÛñ»Ý³ëÇñ³Ï³Ý Ý»ñϳ۳óáõÙÝ»ñ, ¹ñ³Ù³Ý»ñ ¨ ϳï³Ï»ñ·áõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñ µ»Ù³¹ñ»Éáõ ѳٳñ: 1891Ã.-ÇÝ ßáõß»óÇ µ³ñ»ñ³ñ ØÏñïÇã ʳݹ³ÙÇñÛ³ÝÁ ÑÇÙݳ¹ñ»ó ù³Õ³ùÇ ³é³çÇÝ Ã³ïñáÝÁ, ÇëÏ Ñ»ï³·³ ï³ñÇÝ»ñÇÝ Ð³Û³ëï³ÝÇ ×³Ý³ãí³Í ¹»ñ³ë³ÝÝ»ñÁ ÑÛáõñ³Ë³Õ»ñÇ ¿ÇÝ ·³ÉÇë ÞáõßÇ: Ü»ñϳ۳óáõÙÝ»ñÁ µ»Ù³¹ñíáõÙ ¿ÇÝ Ñ³Û»ñ»Ý, éáõë»ñ»Ý ¨ Ãáõñù»ñ»Ý É»½áõÝ»ñáí: 1904Ã. ʳݹ³ÙÇñÛ³ÝÇ Ã³ïñáÝÝ ³é³çÇÝ ³Ý·³Ù Ãáõñù»ñ»Ý É»½íáí µ»Ù³¹ñ»ó §úûÉÉáݦ` Ñ³Û ¨ Ãáõñù ¹»ñ³ë³ÝÝ»ñÇ Ù³ëݳÏóáõÃÛ³Ùµ:

ºÃ» 19-ñ¹ ¹³ñÁ ÞáõßÇÇ Ñ³Ù³ñ áëÏ» ¹³ñ ¿ñ, ³å³ 20-ñ¹ ¹³ñÁ ù³Õ³ùÇ å³ïÙáõÃÛ³Ý ³Ù»Ý³Ùáõà ¿ç»ñÇó ¿ñ: ø³Õ³ùÇ Ã³Ã³ñ-Ãáõñù µÝ³ÏãáõÃÛ³Ý ßñç³ÝáõÙ å³Ý-ÃáõñùǽÙÇ áõ å³Ý-ÇëɳÙǽÙÇ ·³Õ³÷³ñÝ»ñÇ ï³ñ³ÍáõÙÁ ëÏǽµ ¹ñ»ó 1905 ¨ Ðáõß³ñÓ³Ý Ð³Ûñ»Ý³Ï³Ý å³ï»ñ³½ÙÇ 1920 ÃÃ. ¹³Å³Ý ç³ñ¹»ñÇÝ: ºí, ãݳ۳Í, ÙÇÝã ³Û¹ ½áÑí³ÍÝ»ñÇ ÑÇß³ï³ÏÇÝ / Monument erected in honor ѳۻñÝ áõ Ãáõñù»ñÁ Ë³Õ³Õ ·áÛ³ÏóáõÙ ¿ÇÝ ÙÇÙÛ³Ýó of the fallen soldiers of World War II. Ñ»ï, ÙÇÝ㨠1921 Ã. ÞáõßÇÇ Ñ³Û µÝ³ÏãáõÃÛ³Ý Ù»Í Ù³ëÁ ϳ٠Ïáïáñí»É ¿ñ ϳ٠ï³ñѳÝí»É:

Ðáõß³ñÓ³Ý ÝíÇñí³Í 1992Ã. êå³ñ³å»ï ì³½·»Ý ê³ñ·ëÛ³ÝÇ ÞáõßÇÇ ³½³ï³·ñÙ³ÝÁ / Monument erected in honor of ù³Ý¹³ÏÁ / Statue of Shushi's liberation in 1992. General Vazgen Sargsyan. Page Photos © Anush Babajanyan Page Photos ©

141 ՇՈՒՇԻ Photo © Arsineh Khachikian Photo ©

î»ë³ñ³Ý ÞáõßÇÇ ßáõϳÛÇó, 19-ñ¹ ¹³ñ / Interior of Shushi's 19th century market, currently undergoing restoration. Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo ©

ä³Ñ³å³Ý Ññ»ßï³Ï Ô³½³Ýã»óáó ²Ù»Ý³÷ñÏÇ㠻ϻջóáõ ½³Ý·³Ï³ï³ÝÁ, ÞáõßÇÇ ËáñÑñ¹³ÝÇßÁ, áñÁ å³ïÏ»ñí³Í ¿ ù³Õ³ùÇ Ýáñ ½ÇݳÝß³ÝÇ íñ³ / Sculpture of an angel on Ghazanchetsots Cathedral bell tower, a symbol adopted to Shushi's coat of arms. êµ. Ô³½³Ýã»óáó »Ï»Õ»óáõ ·ծաå³ïÏ»ñ, 19-ñ¹ ¹³ñ / Sketch of Ghazanchetsots Cathedral, late 19th century. Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo ©

SHUSHI 144 ÞáõßÇÇ êµ. Ô³½³Ýã»óáó Աٻݳ÷ñÏÇ㠻ϻջóÇÝ ³ÙµáÕçáõÃÛ³Ùµ í»ñ³Ï³Ý·Ýí³Í ¿ ¨ ÏñÏÇÝ ·áñÍáÕ »Ï»Õ»óÇ ¿: Ghazanchetsots, Shushi’s impressive main cathedral, has been fully restored and is again a functioning church. Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo © ÞáõßÇÇ ³½³ï³·ñÙ³Ý 15-³ÙÛ³ÏÇ ïáݳϳï³ñáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñ, Ù³ÛÇëÇ 9, 2007 / Festivities on the 15th anniversary of Shushi's liberation, May 9, 2007. Page Photos © Raffi Niziblian Page Photos © Raffi

147 ՇՈՒՇԻ 1923Ã. ÊêÐØ-Ç Ï³½Ù³íáñáõÙÇó Ñ»ïá, ²ñó³ËÁ êáí»ïÝ»ñÇ ÏáÕÙÇó Ñéã³Ïí»ó È»éݳÛÇÝ Ô³ñ³µ³ÕÇ On May 9, 1992, ÆÝùݳí³ñ سñ½ ²¹ñµ»ç³ÝÇ Ï³½ÙáõÙ, áñÇ Armenian forces Ù³Ûñ³ù³Õ³ùÁ ¹³ñÓ³í êï»÷³Ý³Ï»ñïÁ, ÇëÏ carried out a deftly ÞáõßÇÇ Ñ³ÛÏ³Ï³Ý Ã³Õ³Ù³ëÁ Ùݳó ³í»ñí³Í: planned operation 1961Ã.ª ï³ëݳÙÛ³ÏÝ»ñÇ ³Ýï³ñµ»ñáõÃÛáõÝÇó Ñ»ïá ´³ùíÇ ÏáÙáõÝÇëï ³é³çÝáñ¹Ý»ñÁ áñáßáõÙ and liberated Shushi. ÁݹáõÝ»óÇÝ Ù³ùñ»É ³í»ñ³ÏÝ»ñÁ, ãÝ³Û³Í ß»Ýù»ñÇ This would ultimately áñáß Ù³ëÁ Ñݳñ³íáñ ¿ñ í»ñ³Ï³éáõó»É: ºñ»ù allow the Armenians ѳÛÏ³Ï³Ý ¨ Ù»Ï éáõë³Ï³Ý »Ï»Õ»óÇ ù³Ý¹í»ó, ¨ to turn the battle ù³Õ³ùÁ ϳéáõóí»ó ³ÙµáÕçáõÃÛ³Ùµ ËñáõßãáíÛ³Ý around and emerge ¹³ñ³ßñç³ÝÇ á·áí áõ ³Ýßáõù victorious. ׳ñï³ñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ùµ:

ÈÔÆØ-Ç ·áÛáõÃÛ³Ý 65 ï³ñÇÝ»ñÇ ÁÝóóùáõÙ, ÙÇ ù³ÝÇ ¹ÇÙáõÙ ¿ »Õ»É` ï³ñ³ÍùÁ г۳ëï³ÝÇÝ í»ñ³¹³ñÓÝ»Éáõ ѳٳñ: Ô³ñ³µ³ÕáõÙ ³åñáÕ Ñ³Û»ñÇ Ýϳïٳٵ ÏÇñ³éíáõÙ ¿ñ Ëïñ³Ï³ÝáõÃÛáõÝ, 1921, almost the entire Armenian population of Shushi ¨ Ýñ³Ýù »ÝóñÏíáõÙ ¿ÇÝ ïÝï»ë³Ï³Ý was either killed or exiled. ³Ýï³ñµ»ñáõÃÛ³Ý: ²¹ñµ»ç³ÝÇ Ï³é³í³ñáõÃÛáõÝÁ åɳݳíáñí³Í í»ñ³µÝ³Ï»óáõÙ ¿ñ Çñ³Ï³Ý³óÝáõÙ` In 1923, after the forming of the Soviet Union, the ѳۻñÇÝ ï³ñ³ÍùÇó ¹áõñë ÙÕ»Éáõ Ýå³ï³Ïáí: Nagorno Karabagh Autonomous Oblast (NKAO) was ØÇÝ㨠1980Ã. È»éݳÛÇÝ Ô³ñ³µ³ÕáõÙ í»ñ³ó³í 85 established by the Soviets as an autonomous region ѳÛÏ³Ï³Ý ·ÛáõÕ: г۳ëï³ÝÇ ¨ Ô³ñ³µ³ÕÇ ÏáÕÙÇó within Azerbaijan. The administrative capital was Ëݹñ³·ñ»ñ áõÕ³ñÏí»óÇÝ ØáëÏí³` Ô³ñ³µ³ÕÁ moved to Stepanakert and the Armenian district of г۳ëï³ÝÇÝ í»ñ³Ùdzíáñ»Éáõ å³Ñ³Ýçáí, ë³Ï³ÛÝ Shushi lay in ruins. In 1961, after decades of neglect, Îñ»ÙÉÁ Ù»ñÅ»ó Ëݹñ³ÝùÁ: Baku’s communist leadership passed a decision to clear away the ruins, though many of the buildings 1988Ã. ÷»ïñí³ñÇÝ, ÙÇÝã êï»÷³Ý³Ï»ñïáõÙ ¨ could have been restored. Three Armenian churches ºñ¨³ÝáõÙ ½³Ý·í³Í³ÛÇÝ óáõÛó»ñ ¿ÇÝ ï»ÕÇ áõÝ»ÝáõÙ, and one Russian church were demolished, and the êáõÙ·³ÛÇÃÇ Ñ³ÛáõÃÛáõÝÝ ¿ÃÝÇÏ ï»Õ³Ñ³ÝáõÙÝ»ñÇ ենթարկվեց: ²í»ÉÇ ¹³Å³Ý ¿ÃÝÇÏ ï»Õ³Ñ³ÝáõÙÝ»ñ town was built up with plain buildings typical of »Õ³Ý 1990Ã. ´³ùíáõÙ (ê¨ ÑáõÝí³ñ): 1988-1994ÃÃ. Khrushchev’s era. ³ñÛáõݳÉÇ å³ï»ñ³½ÙÝ»ñ ÙÕí»óÇÝ Ð³Û³ëï³ÝÇ áõ ²¹ñµ»ç³ÝÇ ÙÇç¨ Ô³ñ³µ³ÕÇ Ï³ñ·³íÇ׳ÏÇ Ñ³Ù³ñ: Throughout the 65 years of NKAO’s existence, several appeals were made for the territory to be returned to ÊáñÑñ¹³ÛÇÝ ØÇáõÃÛ³Ý í»ñ³Ñ³ë ÷Éáõ½Ù³Ý Ñ»ï Armenia. The Armenians living in Karabagh were Ù»Ïï»Õ Ô³ñ³µ³ÕÁ ѳÛï³ñ³ñ»ó ²¹ñµ»ç³ÝÇ subjected to discriminatory laws and economic ϳ½ÙÇó ¹áõñë ·³Éáõ Ù³ëÇÝ: 1991Ã. ¹»Ïï»Ùµ»ñÇ neglect. The Azerbaijani government carried out ѳÝñ³ùí»ÇÝ 97% Ó³ÛÝ»ñÇ Ù»Í³Ù³ëÝáõÃÛ³Ùµ planned repopulation in an effort to squeeze the Ô³ñ³µ³ÕÇ Ñ³ÛáõÃÛáõÝÁ ùí»³ñÏ»ó ³ÝϳËáõÃÛ³Ý Armenians out of the territory. By the 1980s, 85 û·ïÇÝ: Armenian villages had disappeared from Nagorno Karabagh. Petitions demanding Karabagh’s ä³ï»ñ³½ÙÇ ëϽµáõÙ ÞáõßÇÝ ²¹ñµ»ç³ÝÇ reunification with Armenia were sent to Moscow from ïÇñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý ï³Ï ¿ñ ¨ û·ï³·áñÍíáõÙ ¿ñ both Karabagh and Armenia, but the Kremlin denied áñå»ë êï»÷³Ý³Ï»ñïÁ ¨ ÙÛáõë ѳÛÏ³Ï³Ý their request. µÝ³Ï³í³Ûñ»ñÁ ·ñáÑ»Éáõ é³½Ù³Ï³Ý ßï³µ: гÛÏ³Ï³Ý áõÅ»ñÁ Ëáñ³Ù³ÝÏ é³½Ù³Ï³Ý ûå»ñ³ódz Ù߳ϻóÇÝ ¨ 1992Ã. Ù³ÛÇëÇ 9-ÇÝ ·ñ³í»óÇÝ ÞáõßÇÝ: ê³ áã ÙdzÛÝ å³ïÙ³Ï³Ý SHUSHI 148 γݳã ųÙÁª ÞáõßÇÇ »ñÏñáñ¹ ·áñÍáÕ »Ï»Õ»óÇÝ ³ÕáÃùÇ ¿ ϳÝãáõÙ ³Ù»Ý ÏÇñ³ÏÇ Kanach Jham (the Green Church), Shushi's second functioning church, welcomes a devoted congregation every Sunday. Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo © γݳã ųÙÇ ·Ùµ»ÃÁ / The dome of Kanach Jham Church. Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo ©

Ý߳ݳÏáõÃÛáõÝ áõÝ»óáÕ Ñ³ÕÃ³Ý³Ï ¿ñ, ³ÛÉ Ý³¨ In February 1988, while mass demonstrations were í×é³Ï³Ý ·áñÍáÝ ¿ñ å³ï»ñ³½ÙÁ ߳ѻÉáõ ѳٳñ: taking place in Stepanakert and Yerevan, the Ð³Û ³½³ï³Ù³ñïÇÏÝ»ñÁ, ÉÇÝ»Éáí Ãíáí ÙÇ ù³ÝÇ Armenians of Sumgait, Azerbaijan became the victims ³Ý·³Ù ÷áùñ ³¹ñµ»ç³Ý³Ï³Ý ½ÇÝÛ³ÉÝ»ñÇ of a campaign of ethnic cleansing. A more brutal ѳٻٳï ßñç»óÇÝ å³ï»ñ³½ÙÇ »ÉùÁ ¨ ѳÕÃ³Ý³Ï period of ethnic cleansing took place in “Black Janu- ï³ñ³Ý: ary” of 1990 in Baku. From 1988 to 1994, a bloody war raged between the Armenians and Azerbaijanis ²Ûëûñ È»éݳÛÇÝ Ô³ñ³µ³Õն ³ÝÏ³Ë Ñ³Ýñ³- over Karabagh’s status. å»ïáõÃÛáõÝ ¿, ë³Ï³ÛÝ Ýñ³ անկախáõÃÛáõÝÁ ãÇ ×³Ý³ãíáõÙ ³ÛÉ å»ïáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÇ ÏáÕÙÇó: With the impending collapse of the Soviet Union, êï»÷³Ý³Ï»ñïÁ ¹»é¨ë ѳÝñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý í³ñã³Ï³Ý Ï»ÝïñáÝÝ ¿, ÇëÏ Ùß³ÏáõÛÃÇ Karabagh announced its secession from Azerbaijan. ݳ˳ñ³ñáõÃÛáõÝÁ ï»Õ³÷áËí»É ¿ ÞáõßÇ, ¨ ù³Õ³ùÁ In a December 1991 referendum, 97% of Karabagh’s ³ñ³·áñ»Ý í»ñ³Ï³Ý·ÝáõÙ ¿ Ùß³ÏáõóÛÇÝ Ï»ÝïñáÝÇ Armenians voted in favor of independence. Çñ í³ñϳÝÇßÁ` ÑÛáõñÁÝϳɻÉáí µ³óûÃÛ³ ѳٻñ·Ý»ñ, ³ñí»ëïÇ óáõó³Ñ³Ý¹»ëÝ»ñ áõ Shushi was under Azerbaijani control at the beginning ÷³é³ïáÝÝ»ñ: 2007Ã. §àëÏ» ԾÇñ³Ý¦ ÙÇç³½·³ÛÇÝ of the war and with its strategic location was used as ÏÇÝá÷³é³ïáÝը ³é³çÇÝ ³Ý·³Ù հյուրընկալվեց a headquarters from which Stepanakert and other ÞáõßÇáõÙ: 151 ՇՈՒՇԻ Photo © Arsen Safaryan Photo ©

γݳã ųÙ, ϳéáõóí³Í 1847à / Kanach Jham, built in 1847. Armenian centers were attacked. Armenian forces ÞáõßÇÝ ³ñ³·áñ»Ý carried out a deftly planned operation and seized í»ñ³Ï³Ý·ÝáõÙ ¿ Shushi on May 9, 1992. This was a major victory, not only because of the historical significance of Shushi to Ùß³ÏáõóÛÇÝ the Armenians, but because control of Shushi would Ï»ÝïñáÝÇ Çñ be a decisive factor in the outcome of the war. From í³ñϳÝÇßÁ` this point on, the Armenians, whose numbers were ÑÛáõñÁÝϳɻÉáí sparse compared to the Azerbaijanis, turned the µ³óûÃÛ³ ѳٻñ·Ý»ñ, battle around and emerged victorious. ³ñí»ëïÇ Today, Nagorno Karabagh is an independent republic, óáõó³Ñ³Ý¹»ëÝ»ñ áõ but its existence as a state is not recognized by any ÷³é³ïáÝÝ»ñ: other country. Stepanakert is still the republic’s administrative capital, but the Ministry of Culture has moved to Shushi and the city is regaining its reputation as the cultural heart of Karabagh, hosting open-air concerts, art exhibitions and festivals. In 2007, a portion of the prestigious Golden Apricot âÝ³Û³Í ³ÝϳËáõÃÛ³Ý Ñ³Ù³ñ å³ï»ñ³½ÙÁ Ù»Í International Film Festival was held for the first time ÏáñáõëïÝ»ñ å³ï׳é»ó, ù³Õ³ùÁ ÝáñÇó áïùÇ ¿ in Shushi. ϳݷÝáõÙ: ØÇ ß³ñù ϳéáõÛóÝ»ñ áõ ÏáÃáÕÝ»ñ »Ý í»ñ³Ï³Ý·ÝíáõÙ §ÞáõßǦ í»ñ³ÍÝáõݹ ÑÇÙݳ¹ñ³ÙÇ Though the war of independence took its toll on ու ÝٳݳïÇå ϳ½Ù³Ï»ñåáõÃÛáõÝÝ»ñÇ Shushi, the city is getting back on its feet. Several ݳ˳ӻéÝáõÃÛ³Ùµ: ÞáõßÇÇ ëµ. Ô³½³Ýã»óáó buildings and monuments are being restored with the ²Ù»Ý³÷ñÏÇ㠻ϻջóÇÝ, áñÝ û·ï³·áñÍí»É ¿ áñå»ë efforts of organizations like the Shushi Revival Fund. é³½Ù³ÙûñùÇ å³Ñ»ëï ³¹ñµ»ç³ÝóÇÝ»ñÇ ÏáÕÙÇó, ³ÙµáÕçáõÃÛ³Ùµ í»ñ³Ï³Ý·Ýí³Í ¿ ¨ ÏñÏÇÝ ·áñÍáÕ Holy Savior (also known as Ghazanchetsots), Shushi’s »Ï»Õ»óÇ ¿: γݳã ųÙÁ ÝáõÛÝå»ë ·áñÍáõÙ ¿ ¨ impressive main cathedral, which was used as a Ûáõñ³ù³ÝãÛáõñ ÏÇñ³ÏÇ ³ÕáÃùÇ ¿ Ññ³íÇñáõÙ munitions depot by the Azerbaijanis, has been fully ѳí³ï³óÛ³ÉÝ»ñÇÝ: Ô³ñ³µ³Õ î»É»ÏáÙÇ ßÝáñÑÇí, restored and is again a functioning church. ³Ûë »ñµ»ÙÝÇ µáÉáñÇ ÏáÕÙÇó Ùáé³óáõÃÛ³Ý Ù³ïÝí³Í Kanach Jham, the ‘Green Church’ is also intact and ù³Õ³ùÁ ųٳݳϳÏÇó ï»ËÝáÉá·Ç³Ý»ñáí Ï³å ¿ welcomes a devoted congregation every Sunday. ѳëï³ï»É ³ÙµáÕç ³ß˳ñÑÇ Ñ»ï: VivaCell-MTS Thanks to the efforts of Karabakh Telecom, modern ÁÝÏ»ñáõÃÛáõÝÁ Ùdzó»É ¿ í»ñ³Ï³éáõóÙ³Ý technology has linked this otherwise forgotten city ³ß˳ï³ÝùÝ»ñÇÝ ¨ ýÇݳÝë³íáñáõÙ ¿ γݳã with the rest of the world. VivaCell-MTS has joined the ¹»Õ³ï³Ý í»ñ³Ï³éáõóáõÙÁ, áñÁ ·ïÝíáõÙ ¿ ÞáõßÇÇ restoration efforts and is funding the repair of the å³ïÙ³»ñÏñ³·Çï³Ï³Ý óݷ³ñ³ÝÇ Ùáï (áñÁ “Green Pharmacy” situated next to the Shushi’s ÝáõÛÝå»ë í»ñ³Ó¨³íáñÙ³Ý ÷áõÉáõÙ ¿ ·ïÝíáõÙ): Museum of History and Regional Studies (which is also undergoing renovations). âÝ³Û³Í Çñ áÕµ»ñ·³Ï³Ý å³ïÙáõÃÛ³ÝÁ, ÞáõßÇÇ ³Ûëûñí³ ·áÛáõÃÛáõÝÝ ³å³óáõÛó ¿ Ýñ³ ÅáÕáíñ¹Ç ¨ Despite its tragic history, Shushi’s existence today is a Ùß³ÏáõÛÃÇ ïáÏáõÝáõÃÛ³Ý áõ Ï»ÝëáõݳÏáõÃÛ³Ý: âÝ³Û³Í ù³Õ³ùÇ ¹»ÙùÁ ¹»é ÏñáõÙ ¿ å³ï»ñ³½ÙÇ testament to the strength and resiliency of a people ëåÇÝ»ñÁ, Ýñ³ á·ÇÝ ÙÝáõÙ ¿ ³ÝÏáïñáõÙ áõ and a culture. While the face of the city bears the Ëǽ³Ëáñ»Ý ß³ñáõݳÏáõÙ ¿ ³åñ»É: scars of war, its spirit remains unbroken and boldly lives on.

153 ՇՈՒՇԻ г۳ëï³ÝÇ å»ï³Ï³Ý ϳٻñ³ÛÇÝ Ýí³·³ËáõÙµÁ »ÉáõÛà ¿ áõÝ»ÝáõÙ è»³É³Ï³Ý áõëáõÙݳñ³ÝÇ ³í»ñ³ÏÝ»ñÇ Ùáï, 2003Ã. / National Chamber Orchestra of Armenia performing in front of the ruins of Real State College, 2003.

Shushi is regaining its reputation as the cultural heart of Karabagh, hosting open-air concerts, art exhibitions and festivals.

SHUSHI 154 âÝ³Û³Í ù³Õ³ùÇ ¹»ÙùÁ ¹»é ÏñáõÙ ¿ å³ï»ñ³½ÙÇ ëåÇÝ»ñÁ, Ýñ³ á·ÇÝ ÙÝáõÙ ¿ ³ÝÏáïñáõÙ áõ Ëǽ³Ëáñ»Ý ß³ñáõݳÏáõÙ ¿ ³åñ»É: While the face of the city bears the scars of war, its spirit remains unbroken and boldly lives on... Photo © Anush Babajanyan Photo ©

Հուսով ենք մեծ բավարարութուն ստացաք այս գրքի էջերը թերթելիս:

Մեր անկեղծ ու ջերմ երախտագիտությունն ենք հայտնում այս գրքի ստեղծման համար իրենց համատեղ ջանքերը ներդրած բոլոր մասնակիցներին: ՎիվաՍել-ՄՏՍ-ը հաջողություն է մաղթում Ձեզ` խոստանալով կրկին հանդիպել` նոր ԱՊՐՈՒՄՆԵՐՈՎ:

We hope you have enjoyed your journey through this memorable book.

Please accept our sincere and heartfelt appreciation for the efforts and support of all who assisted and contributed into making this book a reality. VivaCell-MTS signs off here with the hope to find you soon with more IMPRESSIONS. ¶ñùÇ íñ³ Book ³ß˳ï»É »Ý Contributors

Ìñ³·ñÇ Õ»Ï³í³ñª Production Manager ð³ýýÇ ÜǽǵÉե³Ý Raffi Niziblian

Ìñ³·ñÇ Ñ³Ù³Ï³ñ·áÕ ¨ ѳۻñ»Ý µ³ÅÝÇ ËÙµ³·Çñª Production Cordinator and Editor (Armenia) êáýÛ³ ´ÉµáõÉÛ³Ý Sophia Blbulyan

Ðá¹í³ÍÝ»ñÇ Ñ»ÕÇÝ³Ï ¨ ³Ý·É»ñ»Ý µ³ÅÝÇ ËÙµ³·Çñª Author and Editor (English) ܳÛÇñÇ ²µñ³Ñ³Ù»³Ý Nyree Abrahamian

³ñ·Ù³ÝÇã ¨ ѳۻñ»Ý µ³ÅÝÇ ËÙµ³·Çñª Translator and Editor (Armenian) ܳÇñ³ äáÕáëÛ³Ý Naira Poghosyan

ä³ïÙ³µ³Ý-ËáñÑñ¹³ïáõÝ»ñª History Consultants Ä³Ï Ø³ÝáõÏÛ³Ý Jaques Manukyan ȨáÝ ´³ñë»ÕÛ³Ý Levon Barseghyan Արմինե Սարգսյան Armine Sargsyan Մարինա Խաչմանուկյան Marina Khachmanuky an

Ò¨³íáñáõÙÁ ¨ å³ïñ³ëïáõÙÁª Design and Layout ²ñíÇÝ Ì³éáõÏ»³ÝÇ Arvin Zarookian

Èáõë³ÝϳñÝ»ñÁª Photography ²Ýݳ ¸³íÃÛ³ÝÇ Anna Davtyan ²Ýáõß ´³µ³ç³ÝÛ³ÝÇ Anush Babajanyan ²ñÙ³Ý øáã³ñÛ³ÝÇ Arman Kocharian ²ñë»Ý ê³ý³ñÛ³ÝÇ Arsen Safaryan ²ñëÇÝ¿ ʳãÇÏ»³ÝÇ Arsineh Khachikian ²ñíÇÝ Ì³éáõÏե³ÝÇ Arvin Zarookian ¸³íÇà ²Ûí³½Û³Ýի David Ayvazyan Լևոն Բարսեղյանի Hakob Berberyan γñ»Ý ØÇñ½áÛ³ÝÇ Hmayak Karapetyan Հակոբ Բերբերյան Karen Mirzoyan Հմայակ Կարապետյանի Levon Barseghyan ð³ýýÇ ÜǽǵÉÛ³ÝÇ Raffi Niziblian Րոստսմ Գույումջեանի Rostom Kouyoumdjian Հայաստանի ազգային արխիվի լուսանկարներից Photographs from the National Archive of Armenia

¶ñùÇ íñ³ ³ß˳ï»É ¿ª Contributor ¶³Û³Ý» Ô³ñ³·Ûá½Û³Ý Gayane Gharagyozyan

îå³·ñí³Í ¿ª Printing §ÈÇÙáõߦ ïå³գñ³տանը Limush Publishing

гïáõÏ ßÝáñѳϳÉáõÃÛáõݪ Special Thanks Վարդուհի Սարգսյան Vartuhi Sargsyan г۳ëï³ÝÇ ²½·³ÛÇÝ ³ñËÇíÇÝ National Archive of Armenia ºñ¨³ÝÇ å³ïÙáõÃÛ³Ý Ã³Ý·³ñ³ÝÇÝ Yerevan Museum of History Ալ.Թամանյան թանգարան-ինստիտուտին Al. Tamayan Museum-Institute Հայկ Թամանյանին Hayk Tamanyan ¾ñ»µáõÝÇ Ã³Ý·³ñ³ÝÇÝ Erebouni Museum Շուշիի պատմաերկրագիտական թանգարանին Shushi Museum of History and Regional Studies Գյումրի քաղաքի քաղաքապետարանին Gyumri Municipality Արա Պապանյանին Ara Papanyan Օֆելյա Ofelya Արմեն Մկրտչյանին Arsen Mkrtchyan

159 ¶ñ³Ï³ÝáõÃÛ³Ý ó³ÝÏ / References

Erebouni, C.Hovhannisyan. The Academy of Sciences of the Armenian SSR. The Institute of Arts. “Hayastan” Yerevan, 1973 Эривань, Brockhous and Efron Encyclopedic Dictionary, St. Petersburg, Russia, 1890-1907 Erevan, Encyclopedia Iranica, George A.Bournoutian and Robert H.Hewsen ºñ¨³Ý ³Ýí³Ý ͳ·Ù³Ý Ù³ëÇÝ, ².î»ñÛ³Ý, ºñ¨³Ý ù³Õ³ùÇ å³ïÙáõÃÛ³Ý Ã³Ý·³ñ³Ý, ºñ¨³Ý, 2008 Ð³Û ÅáÕáíñ¹Ç å³ïÙáõÃÛáõÝ ëϽµÇó ÙÇÝ㨠18-ñ¹ ¹. í»ñçÁ, ijÙÏáãÛ³Ý Ð., ºñ¨³Ý, 1975 ä³ñë³ÙÛ³Ý ì., гñáõÃÛáõÝÛ³Ý Þ., Ð³Û ÅáÕáíñ¹Ç å³ïÙáõÃÛáõÝ (1801-1978), ºñ¨³Ý, 1979 Shushi: the dity of tragic fate, Sh. Mkrtchyan, S. Davtyan, Yerevan, 1999

Internet Resources http://en.wikipedia.org http://www.armeniapedia.org http://www.shushi.org http://www.tacentral.com

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