Just a few hours south in Baja California, the Guadalupe Valley is crafting the identity of Mexican wine. In VinoBy Kristin Scharkey Veritas

hen renowned Mexican wine- Produced at Paralelo winery, Ensamble Arenal BURGEONING CREATIVITY maker Hugo D’Acosta realized (from the sand) and Ensamble Colina (from Upon entering the valley from Ensenada, the that his half of his vineyards in the clay) offer a literal taste of the mosaic-like first town passed through is San Antonio de las Mexico’sW Guadalupe Valley were planted in sand of this rapidly expanding wine region Minas, where dusty roads are lined with colorful and the other half in clay, he took the oppor- just northeast of Ensenada. Benefiting from a restaurants and street vendors selling their wares tunity to demonstrate the impact of soil on Mediterranean climate bolstered by the mari- to passersby. Hugo founded his first winery, Casa wine. In 2005, the vintner—who studied in the time influence of the nearby Pacific Ocean, the de Piedra, in town in 1997; the stoic stone build- Languedoc region of France—launched a project Guadalupe Valley has experienced exponential ing designed by his brother, renowned archi- called Ensamble: two red blends made up of the growth in recent years and now boasts an esti- tect Alejandro D’Acosta, was meant to be the same five varietals, each with the same percent- mated 100-plus wineries—compared to about winemaker’s home before becoming one of the ages and identical vintages; the only difference is five just 30 years ago—that produce approxi- region’s first premium wineries. the origin of the grapes. mately 90 percent of the country’s wine. The “House of Stone” is surrounded by 5 “Maturity works quite different at the vine- And with no appellation system, there are no acres of vineyards, and the white yards in the flat part [of the valley] with sand,” rules; there’s nothing stopping winemakers like varietal is one of two signature styles that make explains Swiss enologist Thomas Egli, who helps Hugo from cultivating the type of creativity up approximately 3,300 cases produced annu- manage Hugo’s portfolio. “There’s better drain- epitomized in Ensamble. Take a trip down south ally. It is also the production site for a project age with worse water retention. They work faster. to the “Ruta del Vino” (wine route) that runs called Contraste, in which Hugo collaborates Harvest is earlier. The wines are a little more through the dusty landscape producing the larg- with other wineries in the U.S. and abroad— fruit-forward, a little more intense, whereas the est untapped variety of world-class vino—in the such as Wente Vineyards in California, and his hillside [wines have] ... less intensity [and] more Guadalupe Valley, you’ll find that nonconformity own La Borde Vieille in France—to create a Grapes benefit from hot days and cool nights. complexity in the aromas.” is the norm. Contraste barrels at Hugo D’Acosta’s Casa de Piedra winery 50-50 blend.

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Left: Chardonnay vineyards surround Casa de Piedra. Right: Vena Cava winery is built from reclaimed boats. The Sullivan Group 32392 Coast Hwy, Ste. 260 | Laguna Beach, CA 92651 Phone: (949) 715-7833 | [email protected] “Whereas Burgundy [in France] is famous for its In addition to a wide range of blends, Hugo is also adorned in recycled decor—old irrigation hoses, production of a barrel. Though the equipment www.sullivangroupsocal.com pinot noir and Argentina for its and New one of the few winemakers in the valley experi- wine barrel staves, empty wine bottles and vine- is nearly archaic—metal punch-down devices Zealand for its , … you can’t say menting with sparkling wine, as the seafood for yard poles covering walls and fences. This for- and charger plates for temperature control—the what we are famous for,” Thomas says of the valley. which Ensenada is famous is the perfect match merly abandoned olive oil factory is another operation crushes an average of 200 tons of grapes “Ask any winemaker or wine producer and you get for bubbly. This March, he’ll open a new tasting project designed by Alejandro in Hugo’s horizon- each year. With lots ranging from 225 liters to The different answers. Yes, there are regions [that] pro- room at Casa de Piedra, where visitors can pair tally expanding collection: Known as Estacion de 5,000 liters, it takes grape growers and turns them Wings of Freedom Tour duce one varietal, and we are more working with his Espuma de Piedra Brut with oysters from Oficios el Porvenir, it serves as both production into wine producers, allowing the mosaic of vint- blends. Blend is the rule and one varietal more like Michelin-starred chef Drew Deckman; also not to facility and school. ners in the valley to continue to grow. the exception. And as far as blends, any blend. It’s be missed is Drew’s outdoor eatery, Deckman’s en The main warehouse becomes a buzzing hub B-17 like an anarchy. We are a total anarchy here.” el Mogor, just up the road. in August when nearly 20 local producers arrive Some winemakers attribute the amalgamation to vinify their yields in the building’s concrete to the fact that the valley is still young, still defin- MOBILIZING THE MOSAIC tanks, joining students from the on-site “La ing itself; others point to the absence of a regula- Continue driving north to the small town of El Escuelita,” or The Little School, where Thomas’ tion system that has led to a free-market mentality. Porvenir, and you’ll find a group of buildings four-week winemaking course culminates in the B-24 REGIONAL RECOMMENDATIONS These four wines are not to be missed on trips to the Guadalupe Valley. P-51 ESPUMA DE MONTE XANIC VENA CAVA MONTE XANIC b-25 PIEDRA BRUT SAUVIGNON BIG BLEND GRAN RICARDO BLANC DE BLANC VIÑA The blend of syrah, A blend of cabernet TOP RIGHT PHOTO BY PETER STRANGER BLANCS KRISTEL cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon, This sparkling Emanating bright petite sirah, zinfan- and , wine made from citrus aromas, this del and grenache Monte Xanic’s ultra- sauvignon blanc clean and vibrant emanate smooth premium red wine and chardonnay sauvignon blanc tannins in this wine blend earned 90 grapes at Casa comes from the “mis en bouteille au points from Wine de Piedra bursts oldest vineyard bateau,” or bottled Enthusiast for its with notes of block on the Monte in a boat, at Vena semisweet tannins green apple. Xanic property. Cava winery. and deep complexity. Stainless steel fermentation tanks at Casa de Piedra. For FLIGHT RESERVATIONS or questions call: 800-568-8924 or go to www.cfdn.org 64 LAGUNABEACHMAGAZINE.COM LAGUNA BEACH MAGAZINE 65 Swiss enologist Thomas Egli (front) offers a four-week winemaking class at La Escuelita. WHERE TO SIP AND SAVOR One benefactor of the project was England- born Phil Gregory, a former Los Angeles music DECKMAN’S EN producer who graduated from La Escuelita EL MOGOR before building his own boutique winery on the Located at 380 Glenneyre Street Laguna Beach, CA same property where he runs an award-winning Mogor Badan 917.715.9873 | northmenswear.com bed-and-breakfast, La Villa del Valle, with winery, this his wife, Eileen. Also designed by Alejandro, outdoor eatery Vena Cava is built out of reclaimed boats and features wooden features a small tasting room where visitors can tables strewn try Phil’s self-described “rich Mexican wines beneath a tin-roof with a gentle European touch.” Producing shanty supported by approximately 2,500 cases per year, his flair for hay bale walls. Dinner is paired with wines the experimental is evidenced in both process— from the property: The 2013 Cavas del he often ages in both French and American Mogor Pirineo—a blend of French-grown WE USE SOUTH KOREAN TECHNIQUES barrels—and production; he most recently syrah, and Mexican-grown petite sirah and THAT ARE EXTREMELY EFFECTIVE AND released limited quantities of an amber wine grenache—bring out the best in octopus KEEP THE SKIN HEALTHY. made by fermenting the skins, seeds and stems and pork belly cooked on the wood-fired of chardonnay grapes. grill. (646-188-3960; deckmans.com) • Specialize in Facials & Lymphatic Massages “This isn’t like Bordeaux where it’s pretty • Top of the line professional facial products and much cabernet sauvignon, and CORAZÓN DE latest cutting-edge technology merlot, because they know that’s what does TIERRA • International clients that come back on their visits best there,” says Phil, who is currently produc- This farm-to- ing house wines for renowned Mexican chef table restaurant • We speak English, Spanish, Korean and Chinese Enrique Olvera, including his esteemed New boasts a six- York City eatery Cosme. “We haven’t even got- course Baja ten that far yet, and we’re happy that we haven’t. California tast- Thermage® Fraxel® Dual Laser Juvederm® Ultra Microdermabrasion … We can do whatever we want, in general, and ing menu by chef Special Special Plus or Radisse® Special most people do.” Diego Hernández- Baquedano. Wine pair- $1100 $600 Only $450 Only $20 PUSHING BOUNDARIES ings feature standout vintages made by Face & Neck Call for Details New clients only. With this coupon. Not valid with New clients only. With this coupon. Not valid with New clients only. With this coupon. Not valid with New clients only. With this coupon. Not valid with While boutique and artisanal producers make local producers, to be sipped with dishes any other offer or prior services. Expires 5/1/16 any other offer or prior services. Expires 5/1/16 any other offer or prior services. Expires 5/1/16 any other offer or prior services. Expires 5/1/16 up the majority of wineries in the valley, there like corn tamales infused with swiss chard, are a few commercial players creating more yellow mole, fresh cream and onion ashes. 14191 Newport Ave., Suite A-B Mon-Fri 9:30am-6pm than 100,000 cases each year; the region’s larg- (646-156-8030; corazondetierra.com) Best Botox Price in OC Tustin, CA 92780 Saturday 9am-3pm

est producer, L.A. Cetto, makes approximately SIDEBAR PHOTOS BY KRISTIN SCHARKEY $7 per unit 714-508-7333 Sunday Closed beforeandafterskincareclinic.com

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LA VILLA DEL VALLE This six-room bed-and-break- fast features an eclectic array of Tuscan decor paired with works by local artisans, and is perched on the property also home to Vena Cava and Corazón de Tierra. Owners Phil and Eileen Gregory provide a glass of wine and appetizers in the common area every afternoon, and can also arrange for cooking classes in the kitchen where homemade breakfasts are prepared each morning. (818-207-7130; lavilladelvalle.com)

HOTEL CORAL & MARINA Located on the coast of Ensenada, the 147-room resort boasts two pools and an on-site restaurant, BC Bistro & Cava, which offers an extensive Monte Xanic’s renovation resulted in a new winery (top and bottom left), which houses its wine library (right). selection of wines from local producers. The property also offers guided tours of 1 million cases annually. Rising in the ranks is 60,000 cases annually, but the goal is 80,000 in Guadalupe Valley, while private shuttles Monte Xanic, a family-owned winery with deep- the coming years. provide the option of exploring the winer- LEFT THREE PHOTOS COURTESY OF MONTE XANIC; TOP RIGHT PHOTO BY KERRY BROWN; seated roots in the valley that has been heralded “Our partners [had] this great vision of pro- ies on your own. When you return, relax as standard-setter for quality in Mexican wine. ducing the best wine in Mexico,” says Hans with vinotherapy at C Spa: A body scrub Founding partner, technical director and Backhoff Guerrero, Escudero’s son and Monte and wrap using products made with grape enologist Dr. Hans Backhoff Escudero, who Xanic CEO. “They knew they could do it here, seeds and vine leaves will be available this also has a doctorate in food science, established they knew they could change Mexico. But now spring. (877-233-5839; hotelcoral.com) the winery in the town of Francisco Zarco with it’s much bigger than that, and it’s to change the BOTTOM RIGHT PHOTO COURTESY OF HOTEL CORAL & MARINA four friends in 1988. He was one of the first world, and to some extent, to understand that in the valley to plant new varietals like mer- Mexico produces wine.” until they come to the vineyard block marked lot, cabernet franc and petit verdot, and utilize Monte Xanic produces four lines at differ- “Kristel” at the entrance of Monte Xanic. techniques like French barrel aging, cold fer- ent price points, simultaneously educating the Named after Escudero’s daughter, it is the oldest mentation and membrane presses instead of Mexican market while also expanding its influ- on the property at 40 years old. To sip the sau- screw presses to produce higher quality wine. ence outside the country’s borders. Guerrero vignon blanc made with grapes from the vine “We came to change everything here,” he says, says he is currently exporting 2.5 percent but is to drink a small piece of the region’s history; and he continues that mission today. In 2010, working to increase to 10 percent in the next though at less than a half-century old, it’s an the winery’s Bordeaux blend, Gran Ricardo, three years through states like California, Texas indication of how young the Guadalupe Valley earned 90 points from Wine Enthusiast, and a and New York. truly is. But maybe that’s the allure, the fact that $3 million renovation resulted in a new tasting Until then, oenophiles will have to make the region is youthfully undiscovered. Perhaps room and state-of-the-art laboratory in August their way down to Baja to experience the enol- the obscurity, the diversity—the risk taking—is 2014. Monte Xanic is currently producing about ogy first-hand—drive the rutted dirt roads all part of its charm. LBM

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