Just a Few Hours South in Baja California, the Guadalupe Valley Is Crafting the Identity of Mexican Wine
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Just a few hours south in Baja California, the Guadalupe Valley is crafting the identity of Mexican wine. In VinoBy Kristin Scharkey Veritas hen renowned Mexican wine- Produced at Paralelo winery, Ensamble Arenal BURGEONING CREATIVITY maker Hugo D’Acosta realized (from the sand) and Ensamble Colina (from Upon entering the valley from Ensenada, the that his half of his vineyards in the clay) offer a literal taste of the mosaic-like first town passed through is San Antonio de las WMexico’s Guadalupe Valley were planted in sand terroir of this rapidly expanding wine region Minas, where dusty roads are lined with colorful and the other half in clay, he took the oppor- just northeast of Ensenada. Benefiting from a restaurants and street vendors selling their wares tunity to demonstrate the impact of soil on Mediterranean climate bolstered by the mari- to passersby. Hugo founded his first winery, Casa wine. In 2005, the vintner—who studied in the time influence of the nearby Pacific Ocean, the de Piedra, in town in 1997; the stoic stone build- Languedoc region of France—launched a project Guadalupe Valley has experienced exponential ing designed by his brother, renowned archi- called Ensamble: two red blends made up of the growth in recent years and now boasts an esti- tect Alejandro D’Acosta, was meant to be the same five varietals, each with the same percent- mated 100-plus wineries—compared to about winemaker’s home before becoming one of the ages and identical vintages; the only difference is five just 30 years ago—that produce approxi- region’s first premium wineries. the origin of the grapes. mately 90 percent of the country’s wine. The “House of Stone” is surrounded by 5 “Maturity works quite different at the vine- And with no appellation system, there are no acres of chardonnay vineyards, and the white yards in the flat part [of the valley] with sand,” rules; there’s nothing stopping winemakers like varietal is one of two signature styles that make explains Swiss enologist Thomas Egli, who helps Hugo from cultivating the type of creativity up approximately 3,300 cases produced annu- manage Hugo’s portfolio. “There’s better drain- epitomized in Ensamble. Take a trip down south ally. It is also the production site for a project age with worse water retention. They work faster. to the “Ruta del Vino” (wine route) that runs called Contraste, in which Hugo collaborates Harvest is earlier. The wines are a little more through the dusty landscape producing the larg- with other wineries in the U.S. and abroad— fruit-forward, a little more intense, whereas the est untapped variety of world-class vino—in the such as Wente Vineyards in California, and his hillside [wines have] ... less intensity [and] more Guadalupe Valley, you’ll find that nonconformity own La Borde Vieille in France—to create a Grapes benefit from hot days and cool nights. complexity in the aromas.” is the norm. Contraste barrels at Hugo D’Acosta’s Casa de Piedra winery 50-50 blend. 62 LAGUNABEACHMAGAZINE.COM LAGUNA BEACH MAGAZINE 63 The Sullivan Group offers personalized investment management, tailored to your needs, in the comfortable setting of our private office. We serve South Orange County residents through our convenient location near Three Arch Bay in Laguna Beach. Call us for an introductory meeting to let us know how we can best serve you. Sean Lehmann Left: Chardonnay vineyards surround Casa de Piedra. Right: Vena Cava winery is built from reclaimed boats. The Sullivan Group 32392 Coast Hwy, Ste. 260 | Laguna Beach, CA 92651 Phone: (949) 715-7833 | [email protected] “Whereas Burgundy [in France] is famous for its In addition to a wide range of blends, Hugo is also adorned in recycled decor—old irrigation hoses, production of a barrel. Though the equipment www.sullivangroupsocal.com pinot noir and Argentina for its malbec and New one of the few winemakers in the valley experi- wine barrel staves, empty wine bottles and vine- is nearly archaic—metal punch-down devices Zealand for its sauvignon blanc, … you can’t say menting with sparkling wine, as the seafood for yard poles covering walls and fences. This for- and charger plates for temperature control—the what we are famous for,” Thomas says of the valley. which Ensenada is famous is the perfect match merly abandoned olive oil factory is another operation crushes an average of 200 tons of grapes “Ask any winemaker or wine producer and you get for bubbly. This March, he’ll open a new tasting project designed by Alejandro in Hugo’s horizon- each year. With lots ranging from 225 liters to The different answers. Yes, there are regions [that] pro- room at Casa de Piedra, where visitors can pair tally expanding collection: Known as Estacion de 5,000 liters, it takes grape growers and turns them Wings of Freedom Tour duce one varietal, and we are more working with his Espuma de Piedra Brut with oysters from Oficios el Porvenir, it serves as both production into wine producers, allowing the mosaic of vint- blends. Blend is the rule and one varietal more like Michelin-starred chef Drew Deckman; also not to facility and school. ners in the valley to continue to grow. the exception. And as far as blends, any blend. It’s be missed is Drew’s outdoor eatery, Deckman’s en The main warehouse becomes a buzzing hub B-17 like an anarchy. We are a total anarchy here.” el Mogor, just up the road. in August when nearly 20 local producers arrive Some winemakers attribute the amalgamation to vinify their yields in the building’s concrete to the fact that the valley is still young, still defin- MOBILIZING THE MOSAIC tanks, joining students from the on-site “La ing itself; others point to the absence of a regula- Continue driving north to the small town of El Escuelita,” or The Little School, where Thomas’ tion system that has led to a free-market mentality. Porvenir, and you’ll find a group of buildings four-week winemaking course culminates in the B-24 REGIONAL RECOMMENDATIONS These four wines are not to be missed on trips to the Guadalupe Valley. P-51 ESPUMA DE MONTE XANIC VENA CAVA MONTE XANIC b-25 PIEDRA BRUT SAUVIGNON BIG BLEND GRAN RICARDO BLANC DE BLANC VIÑA The blend of syrah, A blend of cabernet TOP RIGHT PHOTO BY PETER STRANGER BLANCS KRISTEL cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon, merlot This sparkling Emanating bright petite sirah, zinfan- and petit verdot, wine made from citrus aromas, this del and grenache Monte Xanic’s ultra- sauvignon blanc clean and vibrant emanate smooth premium red wine and chardonnay sauvignon blanc tannins in this wine blend earned 90 grapes at Casa comes from the “mis en bouteille au points from Wine de Piedra bursts oldest vineyard bateau,” or bottled Enthusiast for its with notes of block on the Monte in a boat, at Vena semisweet tannins green apple. Xanic property. Cava winery. and deep complexity. Stainless steel fermentation tanks at Casa de Piedra. For FLIGHT RESERVATIONS or questions call: 800-568-8924 or go to www.cfdn.org 64 LAGUNABEACHMAGAZINE.COM LAGUNA BEACH MAGAZINE 65 Swiss enologist Thomas Egli (front) offers a four-week winemaking class at La Escuelita. WHERE TO SIP AND SAVOR One benefactor of the project was England- born Phil Gregory, a former Los Angeles music DECKMAN’S EN producer who graduated from La Escuelita EL MOGOR before building his own boutique winery on the Located at 380 Glenneyre Street Laguna Beach, CA same property where he runs an award-winning Mogor Badan 917.715.9873 | northmenswear.com bed-and-breakfast, La Villa del Valle, with winery, this his wife, Eileen. Also designed by Alejandro, outdoor eatery Vena Cava is built out of reclaimed boats and features wooden features a small tasting room where visitors can tables strewn try Phil’s self-described “rich Mexican wines beneath a tin-roof with a gentle European touch.” Producing shanty supported by approximately 2,500 cases per year, his flair for hay bale walls. Dinner is paired with wines the experimental is evidenced in both process— from the property: The 2013 Cavas del he often ages in both French and American Mogor Pirineo—a blend of French-grown WE USE SOUTH KOREAN TECHNIQUES barrels—and production; he most recently syrah, and Mexican-grown petite sirah and THAT ARE EXTREMELY EFFECTIVE AND released limited quantities of an amber wine grenache—bring out the best in octopus KEEP THE SKIN HEALTHY. made by fermenting the skins, seeds and stems and pork belly cooked on the wood-fired of chardonnay grapes. grill. 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