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Devils Postpile Story N Devils Postpile Story N. King Huber Geologist U.S. Geological Survey Wymond W. Eckhardt Ranger and Park Manager National Park Service Illustrated by Joseph L. Medeiros CONTENTS Introduction 1 Geologic Story 3 Monument History 21 Plants and Animals 25 Selected References 29 Epilogue 31 Copyright© 1985 by INTRODUCTION Devils Postpile National Monument The Sequoia Natural History Association Three Rivers, California 93271 Devils Postpile National Monument ·Iies on the in cooperation with the western slope of the Sierra Nevada near the resort National Park Service community of Mammoth Lakes, California. The Department of the Interior BOO-acreMonument is two and one-half miles long, one-half mile wide, and is at an elevation of about 7,600 feet. The Monument includes one feature of dominant significance: a volcanic formation known as Devils Postpile. Also in the area are Soda Springs and Rainbow Falls. Pumice is the dominant rock- type encountered by the visitor, however, basalt and granite are just under the surface and crop out in many places throughout the area. The plants and animals in the Monument are those typical of the lodgepole pine-red fir forests of the western slope of the Sierra Nevada. The approach road to the Monument passes through Mammoth Lakes from U.S. Highway 395 on the east side of the Sierra Nevada. Beyond Minaret Summit is a paved mountain road that is passable only during the summer months. In the winter the area is closed - the snow may be more than fifteen feet deep. Food and lodging can be obtained at Mammoth Lakes or at nearby Reds Meadow. A campground is maintained in the Monument near the ranger sta- (,J " '-', 395 <, j YOSEM';~ · :L.ej~jnjngQMonOLak' 6 i... NpAATR'KONAL ". ©l '~0 \....") ijMono Craters -, -'V. 110 " . r>''-..~:/.- :. Inyo~ Of "...yO _f..•..••.•. @ Long,Valley <~'-...-'"'9 ,...J ; <f' f I\Lake Crowle O~""- )' r" .~~mm~~es. ~,{om's Place ~ -, DEVILS POSTPILE STORY was first published as "A Brief Story of .--- Devils "'~ \" ~ the Devils Postpile National Monument," by Richard J. Hartesveldt, Postpile'~ \ Vol. 31, No. 10 (October, 1952) of Yosemite Nature Notes. It was re- National ":';, "-' Monument vised in 1963 by Keith A. Trexler and William R. Jones, and published 'f; as Your Guide to Devils Postpile National Monument. In 1977 it was rewritten by Wymond Eckhardt and illustrated by Joseph L. Medeiros, and published as Devils Postpile National Monument. The following people have contributed to this publication: David W. Clow and Kenneth R. Collum - mapping of volcanic rocks. 99 Wymond W. Eckhardt - photographs. Leroy L. Lambright - back cover photo of Rainbow Falls. Joseph L. Medeiros and Gary L. Ogden - manuscript critique. t Front Cover - Columns of the Devils Postpile ~ Back Cover - Rainbow Falls of the Middle Fork o=IOmlt •• of the San Joaquin River ii tion. There are several other public campgrounds in the vicinity. GEOLOGIC STORY To see the features of the Monument one must The Devils Postpile is a fine example of columnar walk. An easy trail leads south from the Monument basalt. Until recently, it was thought to have been ranger station: three-tenths of a mile to the Soda formed about one million years ago. Current studies Springs, four-tenths of a mile to the Postpile, and suggest that the Devils Postpile was formed less two and three-tenths miles to Rainbow Falls. An al- than 100,000 years ago when a cooling lava flow ternate one mile route to Rainbow Falls begins in cracked into multisided columns. Other well-known the Reds Meadow area. examples of COlumnar-jointed lava are the Giant's Causeway in Ireland and Fingal's Cave in Scotland. The Palisades of New Jersey along the Hudson Riv- er and the columns at San Miguel Regia, Mexico, are noteworthy, but are less well known. Other oc- currences are found throughout the world, but well- developed columns are not abundant. Some details of the geologic origin of the Devils Postpile are not completely clear, but enough is known to reconstruct much of the story. To under- ,. a: stand the geologic setting of the Postpile, we must -c o z go back hundreds of millions of years; to a time 51 .co.. when sands and muds were being deposited in a ~ vast sea that covered southeastern California and :0 Z" parts of adjoining states. o " / //c-;'ee'+- I I I /~f;:>o, REDS / \ MEADOW / I / \ /,..~, <' -, \ /_.."' - /' \ / \ f -01 / ~\ \ 1 1 \ \ ~\ ~<;.,\ t 0.25 miles i Devils Postpile National Monument. 2 3 Origin of the Sierra Nevada Renewed Uplift and Stream About 150 million years ago, in the Jurassic period Incision of geologic time, the sediments that had been de- About 25 million years ago, this lowland area be- posited in the sea and later compressed into sedi- gan to be uplifted and tilted toward the southwest, mentary rocks began to be lifted above sea level. a construction which would eventually lead to the Then began a time of explosive volcanic eruptions present Sierra Nevada. As the rate and amount of that spewed forth vast quantities of lava and volcanic southwest tilt increased, the gradients of streams ash, deeply burying the sedimentary rocks. The flowing southwest also increased and the faster flow- layered sedimentary and volcanic rocks were then ing streams cut deeper and deeper canyons. At that deformed and, in many places, folded intricately, time the steep eastern Sierra Nevada escarpment changing or metamorphosing them into tougher, had not yet formed. The main trunk of the San Joa- very resistant metamorphic rocks. Examples of these quin River then had its headwaters perhaps as far metamorphic rocks can be seen at Minaret Summit east as Nevada, flowing in a channel that crossed and along the road descending to Agnew Meadow. what is now the Sierran crest north of Minaret Sum- mit. Within the growing mountain range the specific course of the river was controlled by differing hard- ness of the bedrock as well as by the tilt of the range. For example, the highly resistant metamorphic rocks of the Ritter Range proved a great obstacle to the southwestward flow of the river and forced it to flow southeastward and then south through the Devils Postpile area. South of the Postpile the river finally was able to swing southwest across the less resis- tant granite at the south end of the Ritter Range. About 3 million years ago the river channel north of Minaret Summit was filled by lava flows - red- Layers of sedimentary and volcanic deposits were compressed into dish-colored, layered rocks visible on the slope rocks. These rock layers were then strongly squeezed and folded. Ero- above the road descending to Agnew Meadows. sion caused more resistant layers to stand out as ridges. Streams carved valleys in softer layers. This blocked the former channel and isolated the present San Joaquin drainage basin from the area east of the crest. Also about this time the Long Concurrent with the folding and deformation of the Valley-Mono Lake area began to lag behind as the layered rocks, molten rock bodies were intruded into present range continued to rise and the growth of these rocks under conditions of great heat and high the east-facing Sierra Nevada escarpment further pressure deep below the Earth's surface; some of this molten rock, or magma, reached the surface to form new volcanoes. This intrusive activity ended about 80 million years ago, in the Cretaceous period. The molten rock cooled slowly and in time solidified into the granite core of the Sierra Nevada. The episode of deformation, intrusion, and volcan- ic eruption ended in the formation of. a mountain range that can be considered an ancestral Sierra. Erosion followed, and by the end of Cretaceous time, about 60 million years ago, most of the older volcan- ic and metamorphic rocks had been worn away, ex- posing the granite core of the range. The area had a low relief compared to the mountains of today and San Joaquin River Drainage - posed little obstacle to streams draining westward More resistant rocks caused the river to flow south through the monu- from the interior of the continent. ment before turning west toward the Great Valley. 4 5 blocked any renewal of a trans-Sierra San Joaquin to the Red Cones southeast of the Monument. Two River. The Sierra Nevada continues to rise today. basalt dikes - tabular bodies of solidified lava - During the Pleistocene epoch, or ice age, glaciers, can be seen cutting upward through the cinder pile; fed by heavy snowpacks, descended slowly through when molten, these dikes may have been feeder- the old stream-cut canyons, deepening and widen- vents for lava flows. We do not know how extensive ing them. Ice accumulated on the east slope of the the lava outpourings were, because most of the ba- Ritter Range and flowed down the valley of the Mid- salt has been removed by combined glacial and dle Fork of the San Joaquin River several times, stream erosion, but we can piece together some shaping the valley to near its present form. These minimum figures from the scattered outcrops that glaciers, carving cirques back into the-highly jointed, remain. Lava filled the valley from side to side for but resistant, rocks of the Ritter Range sculptured a distance of at least three miles, from Pumice Flat the magnificent Minarets and Matterhorn-like peaks south to the Devils Postpile, and in the vicinity of the of the range crest. Postpile the lava was probably more than 400 feet deep. Rocks of Devils Postpile Formed Although the rocks of the Devils Postpile formed Genesis of the Posts during the ice age, the Postpile owes its origin to The lava flow that became the Devils Postpile was geologic processes initiated earlier.
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