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Katantica Group, Chaupi Orco and Other Peaks, Cordillera Apolobamba

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Katantica Group, Chaupi Orco and Other Peaks, Cordillera Apolobamba Bolivia Katantica Group, Chaupi Orco and Other Peaks, Cordillera Apolobamba. Hermann Wolf, Otto Reus, Dieter Hain, Dr. Walter Hufnagel, Karl Gross and I as leader of the Upper Franconia Andes Expedition left Germany on April 7 and reached La Paz by ship and train on May 7. It took a full week to clear the Bolivian customs. Finally on May 16 we left La Paz by truck. On the 17th Base Camp stood at 14,100 feet just south of the Katantica group in the R ío Pelechuco valley in the central Apolobamba. As reconnaissance, on May 18 Reus, Hain and I climbed P 5300 (17,389 feet), which lies south of the Pelechuco valley. We also climbed five summits1 of the Katantica group: starting from east to west P 5630 (18,471 feet) on May 24 by Wolf, Gross; P 5550 (18,209 feet) by Reus, Hofmann; P. 5610 (18,406 feet) on May 27 by Gross, Hain; P 5592 (18,346 feet) on May 27 by Wolf, Hofmann; and 1¼ miles south of the latter, P 5300 (17,389 feet) on May 26 by Wolf, Hain, Hofmann. From May 31 to June 2 we traveled over the Sanches (15,420 feet), Rite (16,240 feet) and Pura-Pura (15,420 feet) passes into the Soral valley, where we set up Base Camp II at 14,500 feet at the tongue of the Tarucane Glacier. After reconnaissance, two high camps were placed at 16,250 and 17,000 feet. We made from these the following ascents: Chaupi Orco (fourth ascent; 19,830 feet) on June 8 by Hain, Hofmann; Chaupi Orco Norte (third ascent; 19,685 feet) on June 8 by Wolf, Gross; (both of these were climbed by new routes and were the first ascents from the east from the Tarucane basin); Hanaco (18,865 feet) on June 8 by Reus, Hufnagel; Taro (18,701 feet) on June 11 by Wolf, Hofmann; P 5500 (18,045 feet) and P 5510 (18,078 feet) both on June 10 by Wolf, Gross (the last four were first ascents)2 . From Base Camp II we 1 . Most of these peaks may be found on the map of the Imperial College Expedition of 1959, which was published opposite page 38 in A .A .J., I960, 12:1. No altitude is given for P 5550. P 5300 is given as being 5200 meters or 17,061 feet. This group is often called the Matchu Suchicuchi range. 2 . The Tarucane Glacier drains to the southeast from the huge cirque on which Chaupi Oreo lies. It is drained by the Rio Soral. It appears in part on the map referred to above in the upper left corner. Taro appears on the map 2½ miles east of Chaupi Oreo as P 5570 (18,275 feet) and not with the altitude given above. Hanaco is 1 ¼ miles east of Chaupi Oreo Norte. P 5500 and P5510 are the next two peaks on the cirque wall southast of Hanaco. P 5100 is marked with a dot north of Soral Oeste without an altitude. climbed P 5100 (16,733 feet) a northern spur of the Soral Oeste group. In three days we traveled through Puina to the Puina Pass (16,075 feet) into Peru, where we reached the auto road on the Iscai Cruz Pass (15,750 feet). While waiting for the truck, I alone climbed Ritipata (17,296 feet) on June 17 and P 5400 (17,717 feet) on June 18. Gross climbed Cacahuaycho (17,881 feet) on June 18. We returned to La Paz on June 20. From there we climbed Mururata (18,701 feet), a neighboring peak to Illimani. In five weeks we had climbed 17 peaks, including 11 first ascents. E r w in H o f m a n n , Deutscher Alpenverein.
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