FORM AND FUNCTION VICTOIRE DE CASTELLANE TOOK INSPIRATION FROM GRAPHIC CREATIONS PARTY FOR HER NEW HIGH-JEWELRY MIU MIU WENT FOR A SIXTIES/EARLY SEVENTIES TAKE FOR ITS RESORT SHOW — AND MIUCCIA COLLECTION FOR THE THREW A BASH AFTERWARD THAT DREW UMA THURMAN, STACY MARTIN AND MORE. HOUSE, CALLED ARCHI DIOR. PAGES 6 AND 7 PAGE 9

BRIGHT FUTURE Younger Clients Drive Growth of Couture

By MILES SOCHA

PARIS — The pinnacle of the luxury pyramid re- WWD mains in fine fettle. An influx of younger clients, including a new wave MONDAY, JULY 7, 2014 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY from , is helping to pad couture’s coffers, fu- eling double-digit growth for the most expensive clothes on earth. cited record sales for its spring 2014 col- lection, hinged on couture sneakers by specialty ate- lier Massaro, and Schiaparelli — having returned in January to the fashion scene after a 60-year absence — received its first confirmed order the day after the show. “Even though you can read or hear every now and then that ‘couture is dead,’ our first experience proves that is very alive,” said Camilla Schiavone, managing director of Schiaparelli. STARR POWER The storied newcomer has added a second show for clients only in order to accommodate the number of requests. Couture week, which opened Sunday night, winds up on Friday with a slew of high-jewelry presen- tations and by-appointment visits to specialty ateliers. Sidney Toledano, chief executive officer at Banging Christian Dior, credits the “new economy” — high- tech businesses and burgeoning wealth in emerging markets — for bringing down the average age of cli- ents by almost a decade, to early 30s from 40s. An influx of young clients from varied geographies The Drum — Asia, the U.S., South America and even Western Europe — and couturier Raf Simons’ modernist, arty has chosen a unique way to mark his approach underlie Dior’s double-digit gains, accord- 74th birthday today: At noon, he’ll stand in front ing to Toledano. of the Capitol Records building in “Germany is also a country that is picking up for luxury,” he said, adding that Dior plans to soon open and urge everyone to flash the universal peace boutiques in Düsseldorf and Frankfurt, adding to its sign to raise awareness of his Ringo Starr Peace locations in Berlin and Munich. & Love Fund. At the same time, it will be revealed Toledano noted that couture clients of yore were rarely seen outside of private events, whereas today’s that Starr will be the face in John Varvatos’ latest thirtysomething devotee is likely to wear high fashion ad campaign, which will help raise money for the fund. But SEE PAGE 8 while the former Beatle has plenty of his own iconic fashion moments, don’t expect him to launch his own line. “No. Then ANDAM AWARD it’s hard work. I like to just find it, wear it and have fun with it,” Starr told WWD. For more from Starr, see pages 4 and 5. Van Herpen’s Prize: Money and Mentoring

By PAULINA SZMYDKE

PARIS — Smart money: It’s what young designers need, and why fashion prizes are layering on coaching in ad- dition to cash to ensure solid business development. Dutch designer Iris van Herpen, who catapulted 3-D printing to the fashion forefront with her sculp- tural dresses, is the latest talent to receive such a boost, having scooped up the 2014 ANDAM Fashion Award. The prize of 250,000 euros, or $341,630 at cur- rent exchange, will enable her to grow her brand, which was launched in 2007. The prize package also contains a year’s worth of mentoring from François-Henri Pinault, chairman and chief executive officer of , who is to advise on matters including financial, legal, marketing, com- munications and production. “I voted for her,” Pinault smiled during a brief award ceremony at the Hôtel -Amériques in Paris on Thursday night. Along with Stefano Martinetto, ceo of Tomorrow London; Xavier Romatet, Condé Nast France presi- dent; John Demsey, group president of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.; model Caroline de Maigret; Anne- Sophie von Claer, deputy managing editor of Le Figaro, and photographer Ellen von Unwerth, Pinault sat on this year’s judging panel. He said the single most frequent mistake young designers commit is “probably to go too early into distribution and not spend enough time on the product.” PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER SEE PAGE 12 2 WWD MONDAY, JULY 7, 2014 WWD.COM Stuart Weitzman’s Global Push THE BRIEFING BOX look at. It’s actually the only one.” IN TODAY’S WWD By RACHEL STRUGATZ In a month, the brand’s U.S. site will begin ship- ping to China. Currently, Lane Crawford’s e-com- STUART WEITZMAN is taking on Asia — and a merce site is the only way consumers can access new digital executive. the brand online in China. Pedder is part of the The brand is putting considerable resources into Lane Crawford Joyce Group. Clémence Poésy bulking up its global e-commerce presence, includ- Culkin spends nearly a third of his time in and Clare Waight ing aggressive strategies in , China and China, and by year’s end, Stuart Weitzman will have Keller at the Australia. To oversee that growth, Weitzman has freestanding stores in 14 cities in Greater China. Chloé party in brought on its first chief global digital and e-commerce A Zaha Hadid-designed shop-in-shop will open Paris. For more, officer, Monica Schwartz. Most recently, Schwartz was in Shin Kong Place Beijing in early November. see WWD.com. the head of David Yurman’s e-commerce team. While technically this isn’t a freestanding store, “Our goal is to make e-commerce our biggest Weitzman’s strategy in China is focused on opening channel of distribution globally,” Wayne Culkin, the its own stores or shops-in-shop, apart from Lane firm’s chief executive officer, told WWD, pointing Crawford. This strategy differs greatly from the out that “consistency” among all of its Web sites — company’s approach in the U.S., where wholesale

American, Canadian, European and a Hong Kong comprises a significant portion of the business. FEUGÈRE site launched last month — is paramount. He noted “There is no other place you can buy our shoes that Europe has been the slowest region to accept [except for Lane Crawford or freestanding stores]. e-commerce, but the area’s overall online business We positioned our brand as a gateway to a luxury STÉPHANE has still seen 100 percent year-over-year growth. brand. When you go to malls, you see us next to BY Weitzman’s Hong Kong site went live about three [brands owned by] Kering or LVMH [Moët Hennessy PHOTO weeks ago, and still is in soft-launch mode; the des- ],” Culkin said. “This builds a great tination will be fully up and running with new sea- aura and a halo effect because the Chinese con- son’s merchandise in the next few weeks. There is sumer loves to buy outside their own country.” An influx of younger clients, including a new wave from China, a marketing team of three based in Hong Kong who As for when Culkin sees the Chinese e-commerce is helping to pad couture’s coffers, fueling double-digit growth also works with a local digital agency and Culkin market maturing, he put the time frame at two years. PAGE 1 said the plan is to expand this team significantly. “It’s like dog years. Every three months is like for the most expensive clothes on earth. In December, the brand will launch a Chinese three years. They [the Chinese consumer] are so site in partnership with the Pedder Group, which is adaptable. Before, it was a follower market, now it’s Dutch designer Iris van Herpen scooped up the 2014 ANDAM responsible for distribution and customer service in a leader market,” Culkin said, adding that if China Fashion Award, which will enable her to grow the brand she China. A placeholder on the company’s URL is live doesn’t become the biggest e-commerce market launched in 2007. PAGE 1 in Mainland China. globally in two years, it will be the second. Culkin called e-commerce in the region “the Spanning the APAC region, Stuart Weitzman, which Stuart Weitzman is putting considerable resources into black box everyone is trying to figure out.” He sees is owned by Sycamore Partners, will open 20 to 25 bulking up its global e-commerce presence. PAGE 2 the market there as “tainted” because consumers stores a year there. By the end of this year, there will have become so reliant on mobile communication. be 48 doors in the region. It’s also just signed on to add Former Beatle Ringo Starr, who will be the face of John “In China it’s Weibo and WeChat. Every single stores in Tier 2 Chinese cities like , Harbin, Varvatos’ fall advertising campaign, discusses his career person is using it four to six hours a day, but no one Chongquing, Hangzhou and Suzhou. Pedder is its part- and his Peace Rocks initiative. PAGE 4 has cracked how to sell luxury merchandise in a ner for e-commerce and Hong Kong, while Goodwill luxury way. The appropriate social and full-price Trading is Weitzman’s partner for northern China. Delphine Manivet, Stéphanie Coudert and Fred Sathal are site is somewhat new for the market,” Culkin said. Targeting local celebrities is key, too. And while among the designers to watch during couture week in Paris, “The big companies like Taobao basically do off- Stuart Weitzman has yet to identify a global face of which winds up on Friday. PAGE 8 price selling of . The brands are trying the brand in an official capacity, the company is start- to take that back but it’s difficult.” ing to geo-target celebrities from a local standpoint. The graphic construction of vintage Dior pieces was He believes Greater China — including Hong Kong Key influencers like Korean actress Jun Ji-Hyun and Macau — is still two to three years away from wore the brand’s 50-50 style of shoes (they weren’t the inspiration behind Victoire de Castellane’s new high- jewelry collection named Archi Dior. PAGE 9 being a massive luxury market for the brand, but he sent to her by the brand) in the fall — and within is sure that by 2017, Mainland China will be a bigger seven days of her wearing them, every single store e-commerce channel than the U.S. for the company. from Hong Kong to Australia sold out of the style. Places to see, stay, shop and eat for visitors in Paris Getting involved with Tmall — the Alibaba-owned “Whatever she wears from any brand causes during couture week. PAGE 10 property that’s also China’s largest online retail mass buying panic,” Culkin said of the actress, who platform — is part of the plan. It’s another way for stars in a show called “Love From the Stars” and is Anna Wintour will receive the Michael Kors Award for Stuart Weitzman to speak to its customer and con- reportedly the highest-paid celebrity in Korea. Outstanding Community Service at the God’s Love We trol the brand voice since the digital marketplace Beyond Asia, Schwartz said that improving the Deliver Golden Heart Awards dinner on Oct. 16. PAGE 11 is comprised of more than 70,000 international and U.S. mobile site is a priority. Chinese brands from more than 50,000 merchants — “Mobile tends to be more showrooming and tab- Pop-In@Nordstrom, a series of themed pop-ups located including Burberry, the first luxury brand to offer an let performs similar to desktop,” Schwartz said. at the retailer’s eight flagships, on Friday launched a official store on Tmall.com. The top priority, how- Culkin said more than 50 percent of e-commerce Poketo shop based on the Los Angeles retailer. PAGE 11 ever, is developing Weibo and WeChat strategies to traffic in the U.S. comes from a mobile device and communicate with potential customers, with e-com- the goal is to hit 60 percent. Curator Olivier Saillard and Vogue Paris’ Emmanuelle merce on Tmall being the next step. Nearly 10 percent of e-commerce sales in the Alt hope to raise more than $275,000 at the Vogue Paris Of Tmall, Culkin said the platform is a “key way U.S. come from mobile, but two years from now, the Foundation’s inaugural gala. PAGE 12 to get your brand out there. It’s the most important brand would like to maintain a responsive mobile regular-priced channel for Mainland Chinese to site that drives 20 to 25 percent of transactions. ON WWD.COM

EYE: Chloé threw a rooftop bash in Paris for Love Story, its Opens Pop-up Shop in N.Y.’s SoHo newest fragrance. For WWD.com. ries; unique pieces that clients By MARC KARIMZADEH will be able to find only there,” Beccari said. FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA NEW YORK — Fendi is adding a The interior’s exposed brick @ WWD.com/social playful pop to SoHo. walls, original parquet floor and On Saturday, the Rome-based neon “Fendi Soho” signs cap- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. house opened a temporary store ture the neighborhood feel. The WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. at 122 Greene Street, on the cor- first theme will be “Minis” with COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. ner of Prince Street across from several small versions of such VOLUME 208, NO. 4. MONDAY, JULY 7, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and the Apple store. It features a con- Fendi handbag styles as 2jours, two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine cept that is unique to Fendi in Peekaboo and Selleria. Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, the way it nods to SoHo’s indus- “Specific temporary locations Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, trial aesthetic and rotates themes with captivating concepts give a NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West each month until the pop-up clos- fresh energy to the brand, capable Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 6356, es its doors on Dec. 31. of also attracting a younger clien- Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. “SoHo is one of the most vi- tele,” Beccari said. “This pop-up Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address brant shopping destinations in the gives us the opportunity to reach changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. world for local and international new customers and welcome our If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with customers,” said Fendi chairman ERICKSEN clients in a unique environment your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be and chief executive officer Pietro The Fendi pop-up store in SoHo highlighting an exclusive selec- mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S KYLE WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request

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McCartney on the Grammys and peace. At the same time, it will percent of the proceeds from a great bond of love between us By JEAN E. PALMIERI then again at the CBS taping of be revealed that Starr will be special Peace Rocks T-shirt will and New Yorkers.” “ Tribute,” a special the face of John Varvatos’ fall be donated to the charity. Asked about the sneak- RETIREMENT has never even celebrating the 50th anniversary advertising campaign. Dressed in black with his sig- ers, Starr lifted his feet in entered Ringo Starr’s mind. of the group’s first U.S. visit and In addition to print ads, the nature wire-framed sunglasses the air and said of the pat- The former Beatle turns 74 appearance on “The Ed Sullivan initiative includes a behind-the- and a pair of colorful sneakers, tern: “These are Vans but this today and his touring schedule Show.” Simon & Schuster pub- scenes short film and a social Starr made a pit stop in New is ‘Yellow Submarine.’ The and extracurricular activities lished “Octopus’s Garden,” a media component, all intended York in mid-June to play The Beatles are doing clothes and would slow down a man half children’s book based on his lyr- to raise awareness of the Ringo Beacon Theatre and unveil a shoe merchandise with differ- his age. Ringo Starr and His All ics, and an exhibition of his art- Starr Peace & Love Fund. For collection of self portraits at the ent people now and this is one Starr Band started performing work is working its way around anyone who shares a photo of Soho Contemporary Art gallery. of the great aspects that really in Canada in early June and will the country. themselves flashing the peace “The Beacon was great last works,” he said. circumnavigate the U.S. through At noon today in Los Angeles, sign via Instagram, Twitter, Vine night,” he said. “New York But Starr is happy to let the the fall. Starr will stand in front of the or Facebook and tags it with the and The Beatles, New York experts do it and has no plans to That’s just one part of his famed Capitol Records building hashtag #PeaceRocks, $1 will be and Ringo; it’s like a bond we launch his own apparel collec- busy year. Since January, Starr in Hollywood and ask everyone donated to the charity through have. New Yorkers feel we’re tion. “No. Then it’s hard work. has been honored with the around the world to join him the end of this year. In addition, from New York because of Ed I like to just find it, wear it and Lifetime of Peace & Love Award in a peace and love moment by Peace Shops will be installed at Sullivan and Shea [Stadium] have fun with it.” by the David Lynch Foundation, hoisting their two fingers in the various spots where Varvatos and the first landing was New Over the years, Starr and performed with Sir Paul air in the universal symbol of merchandise is sold and 100 York. So there’s an incredible The Beatles had their share of es g ma es I

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by by hoto hoto P P Paul McCartney, Ringo Starr, and in 1963. The Beatles Personality Annual, January 1964. “Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band” album cover, 1967.

w07a004,5a;12.indd 4 7/3/14 6:40 PM 07032014184148 WWD MONDAY, JULY 7, 2014 5 WWD.COM Elton John, Marc Bolan of The Beatles T-Rex and Starr in 1972. celebrate the They appeared in the film completion of “Born to Boogie.” “Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band” at a press conference in May 1967. IMAGES PUTLAND/GETTY MICHAEL BY PHOTO

iconic fashion moments, wheth- gave me a lesson. He’s been a er it was their hairstyles, their friend for 30 years. Look at him. IMAGES collarless suits or their color- I remember when he started ful “Sgt. Pepper’s” military- and now there’s no one bigger. style jackets. Starr said even With his crazy people that he

before he became a Beatle, he paints. So get your brushes out, considered himself a stylish get on your computer and just

guy. “Before The Beatles, I was create. That’s how it is.” PRATT/KEYSTONE/GETTY quite a good dresser in the other Varvatos said whether it’s JOHN

bands,” he said. “When you’re in art, music or philanthropy, BY a band — before it got to grunge Starr’s “music and heart are PHOTO — you dressed the bit. So yeah, unique, not only’’ in the rock I’ve always had an attitude with ’n’ roll world, but the world in the clothes.” general.” collection. And so, I said, ‘Yeah, black-and-white by rock pho- Although the designer hasn’t But there are some outfits For 20 seasons, Varvatos has I’m interested.’ He’s had a lot of tographer Danny Clinch in Los had a charitable component in that he recalls with a cringe, featured rock ’n’ roll legends in musicians like Jimmy Page and Angeles. According to Stephen his ad campaigns before, he’s particularly one lime green car- his advertising — luminaries he likes music. If you go to his Niedzwiecki, founder and happy to do his part this time. digan. “There’s always a few that range from Willie Nelson store, he’s got great photographs chief creative officer of Yard, Saying that the fee he can af- mistakes in your life, but that’s and Jimmy Page to Kiss, who of artists and musicians, and I Varvatos’ ad agency, “We want- ford to pay the musicians to ap- how it is.” appeared last season. But thought, ‘How good.’” ed to create a classic image of pear in his ads is modest — “We Today, he’s more apt to Varvatos never dreamed he Adding that “I am that guy,” Ringo that also captured his pay a favored nation fee; it’s be decked out in Varvatos or could get Starr to agree to ap- he said the decision was “easy passion for peace. Inspired by not a lot of money.” — Starr’s a European line called The pear in his ads. because I wear a lot of his vintage shots, every image fea- only question before agreeing Kooples. “I don’t think you have tures Ringo flashing his infa- to appear in the ads was if they it here, it’s in England. But I mous peace sign, thus becoming could help “raise awareness for don’t say, ‘I have that, I wear the signature of the campaign.” global peace.” that.’ I go round and I pick bits When you’re in a band — before it Starr particularly liked And all that do-gooding ap- from a lot of shops, a lot of de- Clinch’s shot of him sitting in an parently agrees with him. At signers, a lot of brands. Just got to grunge — you dressed the bit. ornate, high-back chair with a an age when most of his con- whatever I feel looks good.” white dove perched over his left temporaries are sunning them- Although his personal style is So yeah, I’ve always had an attitude shoulder. He called it “a little selves on a Florida beach, still important to him, it pales in like the Richard Avedon photo.” Starr is still as energetic and comparison to his primary mis- In an interview, Starr joked lively as a teenager. sion in life, which is to promote with the clothes. that he’d “waited a long time “I am going to be 74 on July the message of peace. In addi- — RINGO STARR to be a male model, and what the 7th,” he said proudly. “I tion to today’s press conference a great way to do it — all for a can’t hide, can I? I look after and peace gathering and the good cause.” In the photos as myself, I work out, I watch what Varvatos campaign, all of the “He played the Grammys and clothes anyway, so it was not a well as in the film, Starr wears I eat, and that’s how I do it. And proceeds from the sale of his art then the tribute to The Beatles, hardship.” a John Varvatos black cutaway I work a lot, I play a lot. When is being donated to charity. and I saw he was wearing my Varvatos said: “I was flabber- asymmetric leather biker jacket I’m touring, I don’t want to be on Starr said creating art is one clothes,” Varvatos said. “But gasted that it was so easy, un- with front-button closure and holiday. I don’t want to be any- way he relaxes from his crazy it’s a Beatle. I said, ‘There’s no complicated and gracious.” snap collar, black linen V-neck where like five days and then schedule. But he doesn’t view way he’s going to do anything But what clinched the deal T-shirt, black jeans and a pair we do a gig. I do five gigs a week himself as a particularly talent- like this.’ We made a call to his was the fund-raising component of double-zip engineer boots in and we have days off so the ed artist. “[Art] is easy in a way,” publicist anyway, and he imme- of the campaign. “It’s all going black garment-dyed leather. trucks can get to the next gig. We he said, pointing to a piece by diately said yes. It actually hap- to charity, whatever I make,” The three-minute documen- do two in a day or three in a day Keith Haring in the gallery. pened quicker than most of the Starr said. “I urge’’ everyone to tary-style short film, which and sometimes we do four in a “How great is that? But at the other artists we’ve spoken to.” join us and use #PeaceRocks. makes its debut today on the day on the run. You feel tired beginning, it was, who the hell is Starr said he hadn’t met the For every upload, John will do- Varvatos Web site, features a after that, but three is easy.” that crazy guy, there’s no faces? designer before, but was a fan of nate a dollar to the Ringo Starr modern version of a drum circle So now that Starr has So whatever you do, promote it. his clothes. “I bought a lot of stuff Peace & Love Fund that through with Starr being joined by Clem agreed to appear in the ads, I can’t really paint either, but in his shop,” he said with a laugh. the David Lynch Foundation Burke, Tré Cool, Jim Keltner, how is Varvatos going to top I do. I just get the brushes out “I’d never met him, and suddenly teaches meditation to people at Jimmy Kimmel, Jeremy Piven, that? “You can’t top a Beatle,” and I paint in acrylic. I tried oil, I got a call that he was interested risk and suffering.” Chad Smith, Matt Sorum, Steven he said. “It doesn’t get any big- a friend of mine, George Condo, if I’d be the visual for the autumn The campaign was shot in Tyler and Varvatos. ger than that.” IMAGES O'NEILL/GETTY TERRY BY PHOTO MAZUR/WIREIMAGE KEVIN

Starr with wife on McCartney and Starr performed BY their wedding day in 1981. at the Grammys in January.

The Beatles released “Abbey Road” in 1969. Starr in a Tommy Hilfiger ad in the Seventies. PHOTO 6 WwD monday, july 7, 2014

Uma Thurman On the runway at the Miu Miu resort show. and daughter Maya Ray. Groovy Baby!

For more IMAGES, see 2015 WWD.com/ runway. resort

PARIS — Backstage after a and kept adjusting a red seated next to him. Alexa Chung fashion show, Miuccia Prada stole on her shoulder. “Is it Returning to the imposing typically accepts congratulations summer?” she asked, alluding Palais d’Iena, built in 1937, and then, flush with her creative to the underwhelming, room- Prada laid out a set resembling high, holds an impromptu temperature weather in the a retro airport lounge, complete press conference for a pack of French capital. with “Star Trek”-worthy chairs, journalists eager to hear about McQueen, the Oscar-winning mirrored cubes and a carpet her inspirations and references. director of “12 Years a Slave,” with a loud, geometric print. It On Saturday night in Paris brought his fashion-loving was a perfect backdrop for her after showing her resort daughter Alex, also 16. “I’m her stewardess pantsuits and flaring collection for Miu Miu, she held chaperone,” he demurred. coats and pinafores, paraded to up her hands protectively when Fisher’s next project is Deee-Lite’s burbling “What Is the scribes approached and “Grimbsy,” a spy comedy Love?” To be sure, Prada’s take declared: “It’s a party!” Then film by her husband, Sacha on a well-tread fashion era was she took her seat at a big mirror- Baron Cohen. “I play Jodie fetching and polished. topped dinner table and fell into Figgis, she’s a….,” Fisher said, The opening look, a long- conversation with filmmaker suddenly stopping herself. sleeved minidress flaring ever Roman Polanski. “Erm, it’s top secret.” so slightly, set the tone for the What could she have said? Seydoux is in the midst show and established its main Grace Coddington The theme of the collection was of filming “Diary of a silhouette — prim and covered clear: the swirling psychedelic Chambermaid,” the third film up. The tailored looks resembled prints, crochet vests and shift adaptation of the classic French uniforms with their neat rows dresses telegraphing that groovy tale, this one set in the late 19th of silver buttons and contrasting late Sixties/early Seventies century. (Jeanne Moreau played yokes and pocket trim. period, one of the most colorful the lead in a 1964 version.) “She’s Psychedelic prints eventually in fashion history, and one Prada twisted,” Seydoux said of her took over more real estate: super has dipped into previously for domestic character, explaining on chiffon blouses; at times her quirky, second designer label. “in the sense that she’s very overwhelming on flared trousers. You could almost hear Austin complicated.” Paisleys were used as appliqué Powers growling: “Groovy, baby!” Arterton is set to play the title motifs on suede miniskirts or Clear, too, are Prada’s role in her first West End musical, as an allover print on short and ambitions for Miu Miu, “Made in Dagenham,” about a snappy coats and dresses. In telegraphed by her Paris event, 1968 strike at a Ford car plant. orange, blue and green shades, of a scale approaching the resort “It’s proper Sixties,” she said they resembled retro wallpaper, feugère blowouts mounted by bigger of the costumes. “I’ve got two or a pattern seen elsewhere this European players including three wigs — big beehive-y ones.” resort season. Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton Cooper enthused about the Crystal-heeled boots and stéphane

by — and on the eve of couture costumes for his latest film, jeweled gladiator sandals week, no less. “Warcraft,” a forthcoming finished off the look. While the Editors were practically fantasy epic based on the retro styling was often literal, others outnumbered by VIPs, among popular video game series. “I those pot-holder vests straight all them Uma Thurman, Marc play the king,” he said. out of Haight-Ashbury, the show Jacobs, Steve McQueen, Up-and-coming English singer was fun and, as Deee-Lite’s Lady

giannoni; Léa Seydoux, Isla Fisher, Josephine Oniyama kicked off Miss Kier might say, “de-lovely.” Gemma Arterton, Freida the evening with three songs, After dining on ricotta

iovanni Pinto, Saoirse Ronan, Emily including one “about how we gnocchi and vitello tonnato, the G Browning, Emmanuelle Seigner, are all attached to our mobile stars were tugged to the dance by Mélanie Bernier, Douglas devices.” floor by the monstrous bass lines Booth, Dominic Cooper and As soon as she started Jefferson Hack was pumping out photo Stacy Martin, the doe-eyed strumming her guitar, Alexa during his DJ set. Cooper took off

look “Nymphomaniac” star and face Chung dipped her head and his jacket and surfed the sonic of Miu Miu’s fall campaign. tapped out a quick message on waves with Chung and Arterton, her smartphone — and Jacobs before Jack White took to the runway Thurman came with her statuesque daughter, Maya brought up a picture on his stage for a blistering set to cap

green Ray, who just turned 16, to show to Grace Coddington, off Prada’s party.

w07a006(7)a.indd 1 7/6/14 5:53 PM 07062014175542 WWD MONDAY, JULY 7, 2014 7 WWD.COM

Uma Thurman Stacy and daughter Martin, Maya Ray. Freida Pinto, Lola Bessis, Saoirse Ronan, Gemma Arterton, Sophie Kennedy Clark and Emily Browning.

Steve McQueen

Olivier Zahm and Miuccia Prada and Léa Seydoux Roman Polanski

Dominic Cooper and Isla Fisher

Raphael Mélanie Personnaz Bernier

Bianca Brandolini d’Adda Louis-Marie de and Carine Roitfeld Castelbajac 8 WWD MONDAY, JULY 7, 2014 WWD.COM Couture Getting Youth Infusion {Continued from page one} Paris for the shows and to place orders, to art fairs and gallery open- A sketch of Chanel’s team is at the ready to travel to ings — in addition to fashion Armani Privé them. “We need to be more or less every- for fall. ’s shows and exhibitions orga- sketch of his where,” he said. nized by global brands. fall couture Stefano Sassi, ceo of Rome-based “These people, they’re al- collection for Valentino, said he’s projecting growth ways in the plane, and many Chanel featuring of 30 to 35 percent for couture this year, of them are encountering the inscription “Le thanks largely to an influx of Chinese cus- the brand whether they are Corbusier goes to tomers following a Shanghai showing in in New York or Hong Kong,” Versailles.” November. Their “behavior is changing Toledano said, mentioning the quite dramatically, and in their search two cities where Dior staged for exclusivity, they are appreciative of resort and couture shows in Valentino couture pieces,” he said. recent months. “It’s a perma- The executive said couture would nent encounter with our cli- likely play an important role in a major ents. This is why couture is a event Valentino is planning for the open- fantastic moment for them to ing of its new flagship on New York’s see the creativity up close.” Fifth Avenue toward the end of the year. Dior is also hosting a client “Haute couture is definitely in very event to introduce its latest good health,” he said, noting Valentino high-jewelry collection on would enlarge its capacity to face ris- Tuesday night, with a din- ing demand. ner for 120 people at the Sophie Waintraub, general manager at Palace of Versailles. , said the house’s young- Giorgio Armani, who est clients are often independent busi- is slated to parade nesswomen of extremely high means, and his Privé line on budding collectors of couture. She noted Tuesday, also cited a American and European clients tend to sea change in the end order more daywear, while those from the user of couture. Middle East, Russia and China are more “In recent years, interested in eveningwear. we have witnessed an Schiaparelli’s Schiavone said the fall interesting phenom- collection, by creative director Marco enon of generational Zanini, would reflect a broader choice change where couture is of day and eveningwear. Exclusive prints concerned, especially include a hand-painted butterfly motif, in established mar- a nod to founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s fa- kets,” he told WWD. mous butterfly dress from 1937, currently “At one time couture on display at the Dries Van Noten retro- was, so to speak, exclu- spective at Les Arts Décoratifs. sively reserved for mothers. Schiavone characterized Schiaparelli’s Today, their daughters are starting to ap- worldwide continues to grow, mainly due first season as a “great start” as its atelier preciate this particularly exclusive and to the opening of new markets, where just finished the “many orders” the com- high-level form of fashion. It is a cosmo- there is a large demand for exclusivity. ” pany received. politan audience that is demanding and Hong Kong, Beijing and Shanghai are “The interesting phenomenon is that informed, that doesn’t see itself in the now regular stops for most couture hous- they are transgenerational. A mother old mold of haute couture, which was es — which take their collections on the may buy one thing while her daugh- static and rigid.” road after the Paris shows — with Chanel ter will buy something else,” she said. While recent data point to flag- planning to add Moscow and Dubai legs “Haute couture embodies unique values ging luxury purchases by Russian and in 2015 or 2016, said Bruno Pavlovsky, for women who understand them and Chinese tourists, couture executives president of Chanel fashion. look for them.” shrugged off concerns about those two Sales of Chanel’s spring couture collec- She noted Schiaparelli would focus on linchpin nationalities. tion by Karl Lagerfeld — paraded amidst developing the couture business before “The clientele for haute couture is a futuristic nightclub set — jumped 20 layering on “prêt-à-couture,” or high-end extremely varied,” said Armani, citing percent, reflecting the appeal of his de- ready-to-wear, to sell out of its headquar- “steady growth” for Privé in 2014. signs and a heightened interest in couture A hand-painted print of butterflies by Schiaparelli. ters on the Place Vendôme. “The collection caters to an exclusive in mature and emerging markets. Pavlovsky stressed that couture in- “In a market that is so dense, launch- group of big buyers that is not affected by “Our atelier is fully, fully, fully booked,” creasingly demands high service levels ing a real couture house takes time and the global economic situation,” he said. Pavlovsky said. “We feel we still have po- and a “very targeted” approach. we want to take that time to do every- “On the contrary, a group of elite women tential in developing haute couture.” While many devotees still travel to thing the proper way,” she said.

▲ A Fred Sathal ladder embroidery at the seams, appointments to private clients, as fall couture dress. and graphic tops and long skirts well as limited-edition collections Ones to Watch are appliquéd with a lattice of and one-of-a-kind creations. ribbon embroidery. He uses inventive techniques COUTURE DEBUT A Delphine -based Sathal’s to craft his pieces. For instance, Delphine Manivet, a newcomer to the Manivet signature embroideries made in an aquamarine ring, the cage couture calendar this season, has dress from of hand-stitched multicolored structure and setting is shaped been creating couture wedding her first lustrous cotton thread and from a gray-gold thread welded dresses for an international couture sequins were acclaimed in with the 41-carat gem layered on clientele for about 10 years. show. the mid-Nineties, when her a mirror surface to bring greater Prompted by increasing fairy-tale looks were shown depth to its color. demand for evening dresses in collaboration with French Aubry’s work is rooted in from her young clients, Manivet makeup artist Topolino. historical and ethnic styles as started creating long dresses NOSZKOWICZ In addition to taking orders for well as the sensual quality of and ballgowns about four years this collection of about 25 mostly the work of Swedish silversmith ago, initially selling the line as DAMIAN one-of-a-kind looks, she will Vivianna Torun. His designs are BY high-end ready-to-wear in a few offer it in limited quantities at made with particular attention

department stores. PHOTO wholesale. This will also serve as to the comfort of the wearer. Her first couture collection, ▲ A Stéphanie Coudert the platform for the launch of her This season, A Fine Jewel developed with such suppliers kimono-inspired crane motif look from fall couture. ready-to-wear line in 2015. will expand with a line of as Lesage, Goosens and Maison that’s entirely hand-painted precious objects made Michel, will be the next step in and embroidered on red silk designers after a decade’s hiatus, COUTURE JEWELRY by renowned atelier the development of her quiet satin. Finished with felt helmets Stéphanie Coudert and Fred Sathal. Emmanuel Aubry worked Goosens. They include but thriving fashion house. and head-piece jewelry that After her first show 10 years for many years in the a carved jadeite bowl The collection of about 13 frame the models’ faces, some ago, Coudert has been creating studios of Thierry with bronze chain and looks, presented in the intimacy looks bear Twenties influences for private clients in her small Mugler and Christian black onyx feet, and of her 18th-century salon, will be — particularly Poiret, one of the atelier in Belleville. With the Lacroix, creating bespoke scented candles devoted to grand eveningwear designer’s main inspirations — support of a high-end atelier elaborate runway pieces cap-crowned with a with a fresh approach. as in long cocoon coats made of in Paris, she will return to the or refined semiprecious crystal cube of pyrite. For instance, an hand-woven tweed with fox trim couture runway with a collection jewelry as he built his A Fine Jewel The collection will be ultratranslucent ballgown is at the collar and cuffs. of daywear with a slightly expertise in various aquamarine on display in a private made of black cotton tulle using medieval flavor. Citing Eleanor of techniques and styles. cage ring. apartment of the 8th an antique couture technique RETURN ENGAGEMENTS Aquitaine as her inspiration, her Aubry created his arrondissement by to structure the volume, or long This couture week will see the double-faced wool and cashmere own brand, A Fine Jewel, a few appointment only at evening dresses with a Japanese return to the runway of two coats are cut generously with years ago, offering one-on-one emmanuelaubry@afinejewel.com. WWD MONDAY, JULY 7, 2014 9 WWD.COM Dior’s Latest High-Jewelry Line Looks to Past

or $3.15 million. By JOELLE DIDERICH “ Yo u can view the rings from sev- eral angles — it’s as if you had three PARIS — The graphic construction of vin- rings in one,” de Castellane said, tage Dior pieces — including the house’s pointing to the Corolle Soir Saphir iconic Bar jacket — was the inspiration ring that features an asymmetric behind Victoire de Castellane’s new high- ribbon design set with more than jewelry collection, this season named 1,000 stones, including an eight- Archi Dior. carat sapphire. Meanwhile,

The 44-piece line, including 23 one- the Ailée Diamant brace- of-a-kind creations, features jewels de- let was inspired by Dior’s signed to resemble sculpted, belted and 1948 Ailée line. Made of draped fabrics. It will go on display at more than 60 separate el- the Biennale des Antiquaires, set to run ements and set with 1,800 in Paris from Sept. 11 to 21, alongside diamonds, 500 blue, pink and

scaled-down versions of some of the purple sapphires and a 5.62- gowns that inspired them. carat emerald-cut diamond, “The idea is Dior architecture, so it kept a single craftsman I started with Dior sketches that fea- busy for 18 months. tured draping and structured shapes For the Bar en and I played with the idea of how you Corolle Emeraude would drape and’’ pleat the fabric if it bracelet, de were gold,” de Castellane said during Castellane looked a preview. While the concept has been to the famous Bar explored before — namely in the Fifties, jacket for shape — when Van Cleef & Arpels launched fash- it’s cinched with a

ion-inspired items like the Zip necklace beltlike diamond ▲ This dress from Dior’s fall 2012 couture collection... — de Castellane breathes fresh life into midsection in ...inspired this Bar en Corolle Emeraude bracelet. ▲ the idea with the white, yellow and pink a nod to the gold sculpted into 3-D ribbons, tassels nipped-in of its 4,500 stones architecture,” she said. and pleats. They are set with hundreds waist — and was inspired by Even when keeping her designs of stones that are individually cut and to a more the speckled Miss relatively sober, de Castellane nestled deep in the folds and on the modern Dior Dior dress that Raf manages to convey exuberance. ridges of every piece to provide 360-de- collection for Simons designed for The Milieu de Siècle diamond gree sparkle. Prices range from 280,000 color: the his first haute couture earrings, whose petal design euros, or $383,225, to 2.3 million euros, spectrum collection for the house (fall 2012). evokes the Junon dress from the De Castellane noted that she’s house’s 1949 fall couture line, are moving toward a more structured a case in point. By setting the dia- style with this collection. “This was monds on black-chromed white The idea is Dior architecture, so a new exercise in style — a collec- gold, the designer heightens their tion with more abstract shapes, the sparkle to an effect that resembles I started with Dior sketches that theme of couture but melded with the original sketch. featured draping and structured shapes and I played with the GIANNONI

idea of how you would GIOVANNI BY

drape and pleat the PHOTO fabric if it were gold. COUTURE

2012 MADE IN AMERICA — VICTOIRE CELEBRATING AMERICAN CRAFTMANSHIP & HERITAGE—AND REACHING DECISION-MAKERS WORLDWIDE. DE CASTELLANE FALL DIOR

▲ Dior’s Junon dress from the house’s 1949 fall couture collection...... inspired these Milieu de Siècle earrings.’’▲ FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ fashion-news.

MADE IN AMERICA IN PRINT & ONLINE: SEPTEMBER 3 AD CLOSE: AUGUST 20

For information, contact [email protected] or 212.630.3935 10 WWD MONDAY, JULY 7, 2014

A view of Le Perchoir Marais. The interior of Paris Now Atelier Vivanda. Off the couture circuit, there’s no shortage of activities in Paris. Here’s a smattering of the latest finds in the City of Light. BOISSAYE LITTLE GEMS: Small is beautiful, spa run by Groupe Clarins. This

as far as new Paris stores is comprised of 13 treatment MAÎTRE

are concerned. rooms, including two suites, CUICUI/AUDE Newcomers on the retail where treatments run upward eye DOMINIQUE scene include Chanel-owned of 130 euros, or $177 at current STUDIO BY cashmere house Barrie, which exchange. — JENNIFER WEIL BY has opened a 215-square-foot PHOTO store on Rue Saint-Honoré. Molitor PHOTO Decked out with honeycomb- 13 Rue Nungesser et Coli, 75016 shaped shelves and wall panels +33-1-56-07-08-50 Katia and Tatiana Levha in a range of pastel tones, the Annual memberships are inside Le Servan. bijou boutique sells ready-to- available, and the one-day entry wear and accessories such as fee is 180 euros, or $245. mittens and scarves. Pools open Monday to Friday, For its first Paris store, 7 a.m.-10 p.m., and Saturday Rivieras is showcasing its leisure to Sunday, 8 a.m.-8 p.m. SEPULCHRE shoes in a variety of colors and Restaurant open daily 6 a.m.-10 a.m.; fabrics in a 325-square-foot space Noon-3 p.m., and 7 p.m.-11 p.m.

that uses the colorful packaging Molitor spa by Clarins open daily EDOUARD of the shoes as a key decorative 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Reservations: BY element. The carpeted +33-1-56-07-08-80. store, featuring a large-scale PHOTO photograph of a pool overlooking LOUNGE WITH A VIEW: Rooftop expect: He helped paint the the sea, is the work of Rivieras bars have started popping up restaurant’s facade. creative director Danamza. in Paris. Hotspot Le Perchoir Menu features change daily — JOELLE DIDERICH Marais opened last week on and include seasonal products. Barrie the BHV department store’s Recent offerings included In the Crème de la Mer spa at the Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme hotel. 380 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 last floor. The bar, whose name crabmeat with green peas, John +33-1-44-50-68-67 means “hen roost,” opened Dory and Paris-Brest. For lunch, SPARE ROOM: As a part of the contributions coming from Open Monday to Saturday, a location last summer in there is a wallet-friendly prix “Grand Louvre” project, which companies including Breguet 11 a.m.-7 p.m. the 11th arrondissement, fixe menu at 23 euros, or $31.50 included the building of the and through the help of which has become a favorite at current exchange. Dinner is Pyramid in 1989 and doubling associations like the Cercle Rivieras destination for hip Parisians priced between 40 euros and 60 the museum’s exhibition space, Crescent and the American 127 Rue de Turenne, 75003 who line up to sip a frozen euros, or $54.80 and $82. — L.G. the Louvre has unveiled 35 Friends of the Louvre. +33-9-50-60-00-96 mojito or a Dark ’n’ Stormy renovated rooms in its north and — ANNE-AYMONE GHEERBRANT Open Monday to Saturday, (made with ginger beer and Restaurant Le Servan west wings offering a compelling Noon-8 p.m. bitters) on a 4,000-square-foot 32 Rue Saint-Maur, 75011 overview of the decorative The Louvre flat rooftop overlooking Paris. +33-1-55-28-51-82 arts from Louis XIV to the +33-1-40-20-53-17 There’s the same Open Tuesday to Friday French Revolution. More than Open: Wednesday, 9 a.m.-9:30 p.m., drinks menu and laid-back for lunch and dinner, 2,000 objects, from ceramics Thursday to Monday, atmosphere at the Perchoir Saturday for dinner only and tapestries to furniture 9 a.m.-5:45 p.m., Friday, Marais but a different view. and jewelry, are showcased in 9 a.m.-9:30 p.m. This time, it’s of Paris city hall, BEAUTY SECRETS: Taking a cue themed windows or immersed the Seine and the Eiffel Tower. from the late 18th-century in period rooms. They MEAT OBSESSION: Hot chef — LAURE GUILBAULT perfumer Jean-Vincent Bully, illustrate not only the history of Akrame Benallal of the whose signature brand helped two-Michelin-starred Le Perchoir Marais establish French perfumery, restaurant Akrame in the 16th The Barrie 37 Rue de la Verrerie, 75004 entrepreneurs Ramdane arrondissement last week store in Paris. Open daily (except Wednesday Touhami and his wife opened a second location of his and Sunday, which have Victoire de Taillac “Atelier Vivanda” concept on different hours) 8:15 p.m.-2 a.m.; recently opened their Buly Rue du Cherche-Midi, near Le WATER WORLD: Making a splash Wednesday 9:15 p.m.-2 a.m., boutique on Paris’ Left Bon Marché department store. this summer is the newly and Sunday Noon-2 a.m. Bank. After three years of It marks the chef ’s first address reopened Molitor, the pool circling the globe in search on Paris’ Left Bank. Atelier complex dating from 1929 that SISTER POWER: There’s a of age-old beauty secrets, Vivanda is for inveterate meat was shuttered 60 years . bright new bistro in Paris’ they’ve brought them home lovers with a fixed price menu The Art Deco decor has been 11th arrondissement. Tatiana to stock the handsome shop, at 35 euros, or $47.80 at current maintained in the sprawling Levha, the 29-year-old partner which measures about 665 Gold chest made for exchange, that includes a facility, which boasts an outdoor of Bertrand Grébaut, the square feet. Lining the Louis XIV. Paris, 1676. starter, a choice of meat (like pool that is 150 feet long and an chef behind Septime (where wooden displays are the the black angus), a side of indoor pool measuring 108 feet Beyoncé and Jay Z have been likes of emu oil from Australia, decorative art techniques and potato (the Dauphine aren’t in length that’s topped with glass. guests), has teamed up with her poppy powder from Morocco, styles but also the places and to be missed) and a classic There are sports centers, a bar sister Katia Levha, who’s 27, to handmade boxwood hair combs personalities that made the time dessert, such as the crème and a restaurant headed up by open Le Servan. Tatiana Levha, from Japan and what Touhami span the peak of French artistic brûlée or the chocolate mousse. starred chef Yannick Alléno, who previously at restaurants claims to be the world’s largest savoir faire. — L.G. takes an experimental approach L’Arpège and Astrance, runs collection of beautifying clays. That the abundant collection to cuisine by inviting guest chefs. the kitchen, while Katia takes — J.W. is primarily comprised of royals’ 20 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 The roof terrace is equipped for care of the dining room. It seats commissions helps make it +33-1-45-44-50-44 drinks, barbecues and dishes 38, plus four at the bar. “I have Buly 1803 unique. Other departments of the Open Tuesday to Saturday prepared à la plancha. always wanted to work with my 6 Rue Bonaparte, 75006 Louvre are also lending some of for lunch and dinner Hotel rooms here are operated sister,” said the chef. +33-1-43-29-02-50 their pieces on a rotating basis. by MGallery, part of Accor, and Grébaut lent a hand, Open Monday to Saturday, The renovation was WHITE-GLOVE TREATMENT: For there’s an 18,888-square-foot but not where one would 10 a.m.-7 p.m. privately funded, with some R&R during couture season, there’s the new Crème de la Mer spa in the Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme hotel. It covers FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE 2,780 square feet and has four WWD.com/eye. rooms. Treatments include a 75-minute “regenerating” facial for 225 euros, or $307 at current exchange; a 75-minute detoxifying facial for 225 euros, and an hour-long body treatment and massage for 195 euros, or $266. — J.W.

Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme 5 Rue de la Paix, 75002 Reservations: +33-1-58-71-10-09 The 150-foot-long pool at Molitor. The Buly boutique. Open daily 9 a.m.-10 p.m. WWD MONDAY, JULY 7, 2014 11 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS Nordstrom Unveils Poketo Pop-In Shop

By SHARON EDELSON SO GOOD: Jennifer Lopez cut short her of 20 pieces ranging from dresses to long July 4th weekend to fly to Paris jackets is described as “melding ar- POP-IN@NORDSTROM, a series of for Donatella Versace’s Atelier Versace tistic and architectural references” themed pop-ups located at the retail- couture show. and “create brave new er’s eight flagship locations, on Friday “This was actu- forms,” Chalayan’s de- launched a Poketo shop based on the Los ally my little vaca- Jennifer clared specialty. Angeles retailer whose philosophy is, “Art tion week. They Lopez “First of its kind for and Design for Your Every Day.” Other tried to get me to the Chalayan brand, I upcoming Pop-Ins include a Rag & Bone do radio tomor- feel that the collection shop in August, which will include exclu- row, but I’m fight- will be a strong culmina- sive pieces, and a socially responsible ing,” said the star, tion of design, innova- shop in September. her size-2 curves tion, craftsmanship, Pop-In@Nordstrom is the brainchild poured into a playfulness and desir- of Olivia Kim, director of creative proj- white bustier ability,” said the de- ects, who handpicks merchandise with gown with a dan- signer, while VSP’s chief price points spanning the high and low gerously high slit. executive officer and range. Kim was vice president of creative Lopez is in the creative director Kadri at Opening Ceremony before Nordstrom midst of promot- Soygül added: “[A] collab- hired her last year. She doesn’t like to ing her album oration with a fashion play it safe. “They’re about disrupting the “A.K.A.” and designer and artist like space,” she said of the Pop-Ins. frequently taps Hussein will not only The shops have a different theme couture houses to bring a new dimension each month. Past shops have featured design her stage to our brand, but to the home and gift items from Merci in Paris, outfits. “When innovative luxury mar- a custom black-on-black Rolex by you’re onstage, ket in general.” Bamford, a private astrology read- there’s so much The collection is ing by identical twin sisters and that goes into it. slated to launch in astrologers the Astro Twins, and Poketo offerings. You have to be tandem with the open- apparel from rapper Drake’s able to move, it ing of VSP’s first Paris October’s Very Own label. ferings. Kim said the Pop-In will look has to be beauti- flagship in September Now that she has six Pop-Ins like Poketo’s store. “It was a real col- ful but it has to be at 19 Rue Debelleyme under her belt, Kim said she’s laboration,” she said. “It will be very functional as well, FEUGÈRE STÉPHANE BY PHOTO in the Marais. learned that “what works really colorful.” and not everybody VSP was founded well is when we can tell a com- Poketo’s products range from can do that,” she said. in 2007 by the Vespucci Group, the plete story. Also, when we can the whimsical to the practical with Last month, she performed a free 25-year-old Turkish leather and offer the high-to-low price point everything in between. There’s concert in the Bronx, her home neigh- shearling specialist that manufactures — we always try to have some- a build-it-yourself paper hang- borhood in New York, wearing made- leather products for various high-end thing that starts at $1. When we ing mobile, fruity beeswax candles to-measure Versace outfits, including fashion brands. can introduce new designers and and charcoal facial puffs. The Pop- a bodysuit inspired by the green — PAULINA SZMYDKE vendors to customers, that works In also sells Pendleton blankets and Versace dress she famously wore to really well. We want our custom- beach towels, Sweets linen tea towels the Grammys in 2000. HORSEY SET: Charlotte Casiraghi was ers to be able to come back and and woven leather chairs, tables and “They did every single look and it back in the saddle for the Paris Eiffel discover something. We’re tap- planters from artist and designer was just out of this world. You know, I Jumping, a new show-jumping com- ping into their curiosity.” Eric Trine, as well as exclusive have a long history with Donatella, ob- petition held at the base of the Eiffel Kim said some designers in- Ben Medansky ceramic lanterns, viously, with Versace, and I Tower, sponsored by . troduced through Pop-Ins have Clare Vivier’s chic minimalist don’t know, it’s always one FOR MORE “I am her first fan,” gone on to be picked up by bags and necklaces and cuffs of my go-to’s because they SCOOPS, SEE said Casiraghi’s beau other buyers in the store. from L.A.-based HighLow jew- know my body. Luigi [Massi], Gad Elmaleh during a VIP An avid pen collector and elry. “Poketo is really known for their designer, just knows WWD.com. luncheon hosted by the self-proclaimed old-fashioned celebrating their friends and everything about me. It’s Italian fashion brand on card writer, Kim was taken by doing incredible workshops just one of those things Sunday for the Gucci Gold Poketo’s products and ties to in their store,” Kim said. “We when you have chemistry with some- Cup course. The French actor the art and design community. have a paper sculpting class that body,” she enthused. is celebrating his 20 years of show The Pop-In will be the first time we’re hosting with an artist who’ll Versace returned the compliment business at the Palais des Sports customers outside of Los Angeles come in and teach customers how by closing the show with “So Good,” a stadium in Paris in November. will be able to shop the brand’s of- to make paper flowers.” track from the new album, which had The three-day event, organized by J.Lo mouthing along the words in her Virginie Coupérie-Eiffel and Longines, front-row seat. — JOELLE DIDERICH concluded Sunday with the Gucci Gold Cup course coinciding with the start of KORS HONORS: Anna Wintour will re- couture week in Paris. ceive the Michael Kors Award for Casiraghi reunited with fellow Outstanding Community Service at the Gucci equestrian ambassadors Edwina God’s Love We Deliver Golden Heart Tops-Alexander, Guillaume Canet and Awards dinner, scheduled to take Jessica Springsteen. For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. place at Manhattan’s Spring Studios Springsteen took part in the Gucci on Oct. 16, which is World Food Day. Gold Cup competition event and “[Wintour has] been an incredible sup- ranked number seven. “My horse is porter of God’s Love We Deliver, and Vindicat. I had it for a long time. It is a her dedication to community service great horse,” said Springsteen before Spaces knows no bounds,” said Michael Kors. riding, also marveling at the location. The other honoree that evening is “It is one of the most beautiful show CBS Corp.’s president and chief ex- rings I have ever seen.” COMMERCIAL ecutive officer Leslie Moonves, and Halle She was accompanied by her par- REAL ESTATE High quality service MANUFACTURER REPS WANTED Berry will present him with ents, father Bruce Springsteen Pattern, sampling, duplicates Current reps make $100k+. Our fashi- and small production. on earbuds, iPhone cases sell in 5000+ the Golden Heart Award for and his wife, Patti. They MK Fashion 212-768-7446 stores. If you sell to fashion accessory Lifetime Achievement. joined a glamorous family [email protected] buyers, email: [email protected]. Account Executive Kors and Blaine Trump, of French cinema — Marion PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Established Men’s and Boy’s Apparel as well as Berry and Kors Cotillard, Canet and their tod- 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes PRODUCTIONS company based in NY City seeks an Menswear Showrooms Full service shop to the trade. Account Executive for Mid to Large chairman and ceo John Idol, dler, Marcel. D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 size Accounts in the USA and are the event cochairs, Cotillard will appear Worldwide-Branded and Private labels Requirements; Must have a list of while U.S. Senator from next in an adaptation of Protecting product integrity trough relationships with national or regional New York Kirsten Gillibrand “Macbeth” opposite Michael professional, fittings, grading, chains; Commission and base patternmaking & pattern corrections, opportunity- or commission only will serve as honorary co- Fassbender. Accurate, detailed, spec tech packs. Please send resumes with list of Women’s and Menswear. customer relationships to chair. — MARC KARIMZADEH “It was important for [email protected] [email protected] me to come by,” said Paris LUX AND LEATHER: Paris-based Mayor Anne Hidalgo, sport- fashion brand VSP and ing a deep-blue pantsuit by Hussein Chalayan have teamed French contemporary brand for a three-season collabora- Georges Rech. “My shoes tion, which will see VSP’s are full of sand,” she said signature leather and other with a laugh after visiting fabrics reinterpreted by the the riders and the horses. London-based designer of Casiraghi presented Turkish-Cypriot origin. A sketch from the German rider with the (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] The women’s wear cap- VSP Chalayan capsule Gucci Gold Cup. sule collection comprised collection. — LAURE GUILBAULT 12 WWD MONDAY, JULY 7, 2014 WWD.COM Iris van Herpen Wins 2014 ANDAM Prize {Continued from page one} business model and brand positioning Material, craftsmanship and func- are also essential.” tionality are all equally important, he He admitted that van Herpen, whose explained. “Iris’ level of excellence is shows involve a lot of makeup artistry, already above average. But as a mentor was a favorite. “Being a cosmetics com- I want to direct her to other manufac- pany steers the way we think,” he said. turers and give her more insight into Van Herpen stressed she does “not the product making,” he said, citing plan to spend all the money in one year. Gucci and as possible I want to grow my p.r. and have a nice addresses that could be useful to the presence in every big city. That’s the Dutch designer in the leather category. goal. And of course I would love to open Pierre-Yves Roussel, chairman and a store in Paris in some time,” she said. ceo of LVMH Fashion Group, one of the The second prize of the evening — the award’s 13 sponsors, said young design- First Collection Award with an endow- ers typically struggle with the basics, ment of 75,000 euros or $102,489 — went including production of apparel and to Coperni Femme. The Paris-based label leather goods — how to finance it and en- founded by Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud sure quality — and the basics of price po- Vaillant in 2013 will receive a commer- sitioning and distribution. Nascent com- cial and strategic mentorship from the panies also need advice on organization, Tomorrow showroom and an exclusive Roussel said, noting, “What kind of talent space in Galeries Lafayette’s flagship in do I need to assemble?” is a key question Paris to present two collections. designers need to ask. Arnaud Vaillant, Iris van Herpen and Sébastien Meyer, flanked by looks from van Herpen’s ready- ANDAM, founded by Nathalie Dufour 25 While her experimental couture to-wear line and Coperni Femme. years ago, recently ramped up its coaching, has been a creative highlight of the of- widened its network of corporate partners ficial couture calendar of the Chambre uct category growth to watch out for, in- feels the urge to do it on her own, know- and tapped them to provide know-how in Syndicale since 2011, van Herpen’s ready- cluding footwear and accessories. We ing it’s “a big step.” addition to financial support, including to-wear line is barely two seasons old. have the distribution channels, so once Bags are next on her list. She said she Fashion GPS, the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Martinetto, who has been distributing the products are ready we will be able to did one last season, but felt the quality of the Laurent Foundation, Galeries Lafayette, the rtw label via the Tomorrow show- reach the buyers she wants.” production was inferior, not matching the MAC Cosmetics and Thecorner.com. room since it launched in March 2013, Van Herpen’s victory will provide level of technique she was aiming for. Once Past ANDAM winners include said: “Iris knows couture is important her with an additional purchase order that’s done, she will venture into jewelry. Anthony Vaccarello, Julien David and but she also knows that couture is a from Hudson’s Bay Co., plus 10,000 “I can’t wait, it’s been on my list from most recently Alexandre Mattiussi of form of art. She wants to translate this euros, or $13,665, worth of crystals from the beginning, but I can’t do everything at Ami, who within the last 12 months did form of art into merchandising, and I Swarovski. The designer is best known the same time,” she said. not leave a stone unturned. will support her in the development of for her arty show installations and oth- The designer said being a small, in- “It’s been busy. We are now producing her collection and in achieving her tar- erworldly dresses fancied by the likes of dependent label, “the challenges are ev- 50,000 to 60,000 pieces per season, so it’s get, which is the global distribution of a Lady Gaga and Daphne Guinness. erywhere. It’s finding the right partners no small brand anymore,” said Mattiussi. designer-level brand. She is very focused “I’m really overwhelmed, I didn’t ex- for your production, having a good show, This required adjustment. The Paris- on that part of her business.” pect it, I’m honored, and it’s going to be deliver on time, having your prices in a based designer doubled the size of his According to Martinetto, van Herpen, a big help for me and my projects,” she good range. It’s about the organization.” atelier, hired a chief financial officer, who will skip this week’s couture shows said in an interview. “I really want to Indeed, the questions she is burning staged his first proper runway show, en- to concentrate on her rtw, “had an amaz- grow my ready-to-wear and the range of to ask Pinault concern “the little things.” trusted KCD Worldwide in New York ing season.” garments. My last collection was 25 piec- “There is no big gap I am trying to fill, with his image in the U.S. — one of his Her rtw is currently stocked in about es, which is quite small for a rtw [collec- I’m just trying to make the little things top markets, in which he wished to grow 20 doors worldwide, including Dover tion]. Per season I’m thinking about 33, I’m doing a little better,” she said. more — and launched e-commerce. Street Market in London, Odd in New and I want to expand my accessories.” “Don’t blow it all on the show” was “Every penny was spent with a pur- York and Joyce in Hong Kong. Van Herpen, who graduated from the Demsey’s advice to van Herpen. The pose. But above all, the prize gave us “We are targeting 50 accounts world- ArtEZ Institute of the Arts Arnhem in Estée Lauder Cos. executive said the credibility and easier access to a bigger wide in the next year and we will cap 2006 before joining Alexander McQueen, younger generation often tends to get network,” he said. the growth at 100, 120 accounts,” he said, said she has always made shoes in col- “caught up in the glamour — and we all — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS adding that “there is also a lot of prod- laboration with somebody else and now do, that’s what we love about fashion. But FROM MILES SOCHA

scale works from Anja Rubik in a Maison Martin LYNCH MOB: was inspired by the MEMO PAD the likes of Inez van a 2006 photo Margiela jacket universe of David Lynch, who designed the Lamsweerde and Vinoodh by Ines Van made of wigs, set for the label’s fall collection, for the MUSEUM QUALITY: How’s this for a Matadin, Mario Sorrenti, Lamsweerde eight dresses by advertising images for its fall collection, shopping list: Yohji Yamamoto coat, David Sims and Mert Alas and Vinoodh enigmatic Spanish which features models Guinevere Van David Downton sketch, Courrèges couture and Marcus Piggott. Matatin. designer Sybilla, Seenus and Robert McKinnon in a series of suit, Comme des Garçons cage jacket Saillard said and an important cinematic and unsettling environments. — not to mention 32 other outfits, the fund is already “surrealist” couture The campaign marks the third photographs and sketches. allowing the gown donated by Jean collaboration between Kenzo creative Curator Olivier Saillard was able to museum to fill Paul Gaultier. directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim and buy all that for the fashion museum important holes in Not that it’s strictly Maurizio Cattelan, Pierpaolo Ferrari and Micol at the Palais Galliera, where he its contemporary a French project. Alt Talso of Toilet Paper magazine. is director, thanks to the Vogue collection. The said Italian fashion “We were interested in figuring out Paris Foundation, a fund foundation houses, including ways to evolve the past concepts into established in February also Prada, were among something that felt different but still in by the French opened the first to snap up the spirit of both Kenzo and Toilet Paper. magazine with an the tables for the gala, Since the collection was inspired by David annual initial grant of door to which she said Lynch, it was natural for us to incorporate 100,000 euros, or $137,660 standoff- would be done “on a some of the emotions we experience when at current exchange. ish fashion Parisian scale” and seeing his work,” said Lim. Now Saillard and Emmanuelle houses thanks to more intimate and The images will be unveiled Alt, editor in chief of Vogue the “glamour” low-key than the Met through a series of videos and GIFs Paris, hope to raise in the associated ball for the Costume on the “Kenzine” blog and on Kenzo’s neighborhood of 200,000 with the Institute in New York. Facebook, Twitter and Instagram euros, or $275,320, with the Vogue brand and its much- Saillard said the gala would enrich the accounts each day from Monday to foundation’s inaugural gala, photographed editor. museum’s acquisition budget by a large Friday. — JOELLE DIDERICH scheduled for Wednesday in In a joint interview in margin. By comparison, the institution the neo-Renaissance palace’s Saillard’s garretlike office, Alt gets about 40,000 euros, or $55,065, striking peristyle. noted that the magazine has no annually from the city. Saillard said the museum’s say in the museum’s acquisition Its newly acquired items are to be affiliation with the fashion policy, but it is fully behind displayed at the gala, and be credited magazine has also opened Saillard’s ambitions to blow the to the Vogue Paris Foundation when the door to a windfall of dust off costume exhibitions included in upcoming exhibitions, donations: 23 outfits and 10 and buy into important including one devoted to Jeanne photographs, the latter thanks Karl Lagerfeld’s contemporary fashions, with Lanvin as the house marks its 125th to Alt’s Rolodex. violin dress for the curator often placing orders anniversary. “I have direct access to the Chloé from 1983. right after a fashion show, much Saillard noted he also plans to photographers: I work with like a retailer. introduce performance elements to them, we are friends now, so I asked “It’s a museum for today,” Alt future exhibitions, inviting actresses them this favor,” she said as Saillard stressed, excitedly discussing with and choreographers to participate. marveled that she could coax large- Saillard recent additions such as — MILES SOCHA An image from Kenzo’s fall campaign.