FEBRUARY, 1918. PRICE, 25 CENTS A COPY. $2.00 A YEAR.

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CLOSED D U 620 FEBRUARY IN HAWAII .M5 THE NATIVE PA-U RIDER

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Vol. {V. No. 2. HONOLULU, HAWAII. The Great Pacific Northwest Land of Year-Round Outdoor Sport

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A Port of the Great Pacific Northwest.

The Pacific Northwest—British Colum- and energy for the work that is to come. bia, Washington and Orgeon—is peculiarly But apart from the scenery, there is the adapted in location, in climate, in sports, delightful climate, almost the same bed and scenery, as the real, the ideal vacation covering being needed in Summer as in and playground land fort the people of the Winter. countries of the Pacific Ocean and of the There are 15,000 miles of good auto North American Continent. roads, passing through huge forests, around Dream, imagine what you crave most in magnificent snow-capped mountains, by the the way' of a vacation—in which a change banks of mighty rivers and rippling trout of scene and climate and new surroundings streams, and skirting a rock-bound and are most essential! You have all of these beach-fringed ocean, and through fertile here, rolled into one—easily and quickly valleys and golden orchards. accessible — with 550,000 square miles of It is truly the land of outdoor sport, enchanting) scenery of every variety. This where golfing, mountain climbing, fishing, immense playground contains wonders that hunting, and yachting may be enjoyed the rival the Alps of Switzerland, the beauties year round. of the English Lake District, the Mediter- The Great Pacific Northwest, combining ranean and the, Italian Riviera, the stately British Columbia, Washington, and Ore- fiords of Norway, and combined with the gon, holds a hearty welcome to the tour- majesty and grandeur of the scenery that ist, visitor and settler, and detailed infor- is typical of this Continent. It is a land mation concerning every part of this great where the tired business man who has had International Playground may be had from his nose to the grindstone for eleven months Herbert Cuthbert, Secretary Pacific North- of the year may come to recuperate and re- west Tourist Association, L. C. Smith pair the waste and supply the new vigor Building, Seattle, Washington. 4.--., ''-` O'ilr flith-Parifir tlittgazittr CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD Volume XV. No. 2.

CONTENTS FOR FEBRUARY, 1918.

OUR ART SECTION - - - - - - - 101 PROPOSED CALL FOR A PAN-PACIFIC CONFER- ENCE - - - - - - - - - 117 By the Pan-Pacific Union. * THE PAN-PACIFIC UNION — ITS AIMS AND AM- ra' BITIONS BRIEFLY TOLD - - - 119 By Alexander Hume Ford. THE CONGRESSIONAL VISIT TO HAWAII - - 123 THE PASSING OF AMERICA'S ONLY QUEEN — LILIUOKALANI OF HAWAII - - - - 127 MEANDERING ON MAUI - - - - - 133 By Woods Peters. SINGAPORE — MELTING POT OF THE EAST - - 137 By Charlton D. Perkins. ALPINE LIFE IN AUSTRALIA - - - - 141 By Fred C. Govers. PROMOTION PAYS - - - - - - - 145 By E. J. Berndt (Chairman Hawaii Promotion Committee). MANILA - - - - - - - - - 149 By Harold M. Pitt (President! Manila Merchants' Assn.). THE TRANSPORTATION PROBLEM IN CHINA - 153 By George Bronson Rea. THE EDUCATED FISH OF HAWAII - - - 157 By A Malihini. HOUSES OF THE UNION GROUP AND MICRONESIA - - - - - - - - 161 By William T. Brigham, A.M., Sc.D. WHEN THE MAORI WENT TO WAR - - - 165 By John Chapin. THE BISHOP MUSEUM - - - - - - 171 By R. E. Lambert. SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA FOR THE SPORTSMAN 177 ABOUT THE "HERMIT KINGDOM" WITH A CAMERA - - - - - - - - 181 By R. J. Baker. AUSTRALIA'S GREAT NORTHERN TERRITORY - 185 By W. II. Clark. THE STORY OF SHINTOISM - - - - - 189 By a Son of Japan. DOING THE SOUTH COAST OF SOUTH AMERICA 193 By William A. Reid (of the Pan-American Union Staff).

MR i' i: th-Farifir P: agaztur Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H. Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions, $2.00 in advance. Canada and Mexico, $2.50. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25c. Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffice.

Permission is given to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine when credit is given.

4 A farmer surveying his field of gold. Australia is the land of wheat, cattle and sheep. The wheat grower or farmer is aided by the government, and plentY and content- ment are usually his share. Cattle crossing a Billabong in New South Wales. "Billabong" is evidently the native term for a stream, for Australian nomenclature is full of aboriginal words.

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THE LATE QUEEN LILIUOKALANI Queen Liliuokalani, of Hawaii, who died on November 11, 1917, after an absence from her palace of twenty-three years, returned to her throne for a day on September 17, 1915, to inaugurate "Pan-Pacific" or "Balboa Day," and to receive the flags of all Pacific races for presentation to the Pan-Pacific Union. Once more, on November 19, 1917, she entered the throne room, to receive the last homage of all races of the Pacific, who gathered there to do the late queen homage. 0'111, 410-Pariftr fliagazittr CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD

Volume XV. FEBRUARY, 1918. Number 2.

"Dfic Proposed Call For a Pan-Pacific Conference

By the Pan-Pacific Union.

The Pan-Pacific Union, incorporated with an International Board of Trustees, representing every race and nation of the Pacific, in amending its charter, submits this tentative outline for discussion and suggestion: The present trustees may be added to or replaced by appointed representa- tives of the different Pacific countries co-operating in the management of the affairs of the Pan-Pacific Union. The various lands and peoples of the Pacific are asked to voice their opinions as to the following tentative purposes, proposed in the revised charter of the Pan-Pacific Union: 1. To call in conference delegates from and representatives of all Pacific peoples for the purpose of discussing and furthering the interests common to Pacific nations. 2. To maintain in Hawaii and other Pacific lands bureaux of information and education concerning matters of interest to the people of the Pacific, and to disseminate to the world information of every kind of progress and opportuni- ty in Pacific lands, and to promote the comfort and interest of all visitors to these lands. 3. To aid and assist those in all Pacific communities to better understand each other, and to work together for the furtherance of the best interests of the land of their adoption, and, through them, to spread abroad about the Pacific the friendly spirit of inter-racial co-operation. 4. To assist and to aid the different races in lands of the Pacific to co- operate in local fairs, to raise produce, and to create home manufactured goods. 5. To own real estate or erect buildings needed for housing exhibits, dio- ramas, art galleries, or in taking care of visitors ; provided and maintained by the respective local committees. 6. To maintain a Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum, and Art Gallery of Pacific Paintings. 7. To create dioramas, gather exhibits, books and other Pan-Pacific material of educational or instructive value. 8. To promote and conduct a Pan-Pacific Exposition of the handicrafts of the people about the Great Ocean, and especially of their works of art and

117 118 THE MID-PACIFIC

scenic dioramas of the most beautiful bits of Pacific lands, as well as illustrating the important industries of the different countries of the Pacific. 9. To establish and maintain a permanent college and "clearing house" of information (printed and otherwise) concerning the lands, commerce, peoples, and trade opportunities in countries of the Pacific, creating libraries of commer- cial knowledge, and training young men in this commercial knowledge of Pacific lands. 10. To secure, in furtherance of these objects, the co-operation and sup- port of Federal and State governments, chambers of commerce, city govern- ments, and of individuals. 11. To enlist for this work of publicity in behalf of Alaska, the Territory of Hawaii, the Philippines, and other American possessions of the Pacific, Federal aid and financial support, as well as similar co-operation and support from all Pacific governments. 12. To bring all nations and peoples about the Pacific Ocean into closer friendly and commercial contact and relationship. This tentative plan is being submitted to all countries of the Pacific with the following Questionaire. . 1. What is your opinion of the Pan-Pacific Union as herein set forth? 2. What suggestions have you to offer relative to the plan and scope? 3. Would you send a representative to a conference to be held in Hawaii as soon as conditions will warrant? 4. Would you recommend a personal visit of a Pan-Pacific Union repre- sentative to discuss the matter in detail with your people ? 5. When do you think the conference should be held? Replies may be sent direct to the Secretary of the Pan-Pacific Union, Hono- lulu, Hawaii. The Senators and Congressmen from Washington, D. C., who have just visited Hawaii, are unanimous in their opinion that the Pacific Ocean will carry the commerce of the world, and that the time is opportune for the furtherance of the work of the Pan-Pacific Union, and that a conference should be called as soon as possible. It is the intention of the Pan-Pacific Union to send emissaries about the Pacific to carry on the work on a much broader scale than we have done before, and to initiate a campaign of preparedness about the Great Ocean, so that after the close of the war we will have the foundation laid to carry on the commerce and traffic that will come to Pacific countries. Following the Pan-Pacific Conference in San Francisco, and the organiza- tion there of the Pacific Western Tourist Association, embracing territory from Alaska to Mexico, and Colorado to Hawaii, a series of meetings of the Pan-Pacific Union were held in Honolulu, and to these Harry N. Burhans, Secretary of the Pacific Western Tourist Association, was invited as a guest, and interesting conferences were held, resulting in a broadening of the scope of the work of the Pan-Pacific Union. It was decided to seek the co-operation of the National. Parks Service of the United States in furthering the Pan-Pacific propaganda. At the Honolulu conferences, the Secretary of the Pan-Pacific Union, Alexander Hume Ford, was asked to set forth a brief history of the movement, which was embodied in his report and ordered published. The Pan-Pacific Union Its Aims And Ambitions Briefly Told---

By Its Secretary, Alexander Hume Ford

In the Spring of 1907, Governor Wal- the Pan-Pacific work. A Hands-Around- ter F. Frear (then Governor of Hawaii) the-Pacific Club was organized, which appointed a Territorial Transportation has since had corresponding branches Committee, and its secretary was sent established everywhere about the Pacific with official credentials around the Pa- and even in London. cific to "feel the way" for the inauguration In the calls for the first and second Pan- of a Pan-Pacific movement for the crea- Pacific Conferences in Honolulu, stress tion of a practical and useful Patriotism was laid upon the advisability of all offi- of the Pacific. He was officially received cial tourist bureaux of the Pacific com- and welcomed. in New Zealand and in bining their efforts to maintain joint Australia, and Percy Hunter, head of Pan-Pacific Tourist Information offices the Government Tourist and Immigra- in the large cities of America, as Austra- tion Service, pledged Australia's sup- lia now stands ready to lead in this part port to a plan of co-operative work to of the work as soon as peace is declared, make Pacific lands and peoples better while other Pacific.' lands have voiced known to each other and to the world at their approval. large. His government sent him the In the organization perfected first as following year to Hawaii to what may be the Hands-Around-the-Pacific Move- termed the first official Pan-Pacific Con- ment and later as the Pan-Pacific Union, ference.. Governor Frear was elected President, Toward the end of 1910, Governor the Premiers of the Australasian states Frear, acting for Hawaii, and Percy gladly acting as Honorary Presidents Hunter, for Australia, issued an official with him, and appointing Percy Hunter call for a Pan-Pacific Conference to be as active, Vice-President to Governor held in Honolulu, February, 1911, it be- Frear. The Governor-General of the the consensus of opinion among those Philippines and other official dignitaries about the Pacific interested in the move- of the Pacific lent their influence, names ment, that Honolulu, because of its nat- and co-operation, and so for several ural and convenient location as the years the work was carried on by a pa- "cross-roads" of the ocean, should be the triotic band of volunteers working for place in which the first Pan-Pacific Con- the creation of a real Patriotism of the ference should be held. Therefore, the Pacific. In fact, even so far, the organi- "Mid-Pacific Magazine" was founded in zation has had no paid officials or em- Honolulu as an organ of this Pan-Pacific ployees. The financing of the work has work. been carried forward by the directors of At the Pan-Pacific Conference in 1911 the Pan-Pacific Union in Hawaii, al- it was further urged that Hawaii be though Australasia has always offered chosen as the central executive seat of to bear her portion and will do so.

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Baron Shibuzawa of Japan has visited gether in perfect amity, learning to help Hawaii to meet with the races here and, each other and to know each other—an it is understood, is keenly desirous that example on a small scale in Hawaii of his country take active part in the Pan- what may be accomplished in time on a Pacific work, as is Viscount Ishii, who, it greater scale throughout the Pacific. is said, would willingly assist in promot- Here during the year the leading men ing a "Pan-Pacific Hague Conference" and thinkers of every Pacific land meet at the Cross-Roads of the Pacific. the Pan-Pacific workers located in Hono- In 1916 the Pan-Pacific Club of Ha- lulu and leave messages for those who waii maintained at the San Diego Ex- come after. Hawaii has truly and in- position a Pan-Pacific Building, provid- evitably become the "clearing house" of ing free exhibit space and service to all Pan-Pacific information and effort. Pacific lands. It was one of the largest Through the continued activities of and, most successful buildings on the the Pan-Pacific Union, a pound-a-day grounds. The Exposition authorities around-the-Pacific rate, ashore and desired to continue the San Diego Fair afloat, was secured from the steamship through 1917, as a Pan-Pacific Exposi- companies and the Government Tourist tion, under the auspices of the Pan-Pa- Bureaux of the Pacific. Active steps cific Union. However, the countries should be taken to keep in operation a about the Pacific, on being appealed to, campaign of preparedness that this may urged that Hawaii, at the "cross-roads" be put in active operation immediately of the Ocean, was the logical place for at the close of the war. a Pan-Pacific Exposition, and requested Much interest has been aroused in the that it be held there at the close of the proposed Pan-Pacific Exposition of present war. Java, Australia, New Zea- scenic dioramas and handicrafts of the land and other Pacific lands have al- Pacific. This should be promoted, and ready promised support and co-opera- the pound-a-day rate put in operation tion. in connection with it. The excursions For ten years in Hawaii a systematic from Australasia to Hawaii inaugurated campaign has been carried forward to at the request of the Pan-Pacific Union bring together in friendly working rela- proved such a success that new steamers tion the men of the many Pacific races are to be built for this service when residing here, and with splendid success. peace is declared, and cheap excursion Leaders have been developed, especially trips, in season, advertised from Van- among the Chinese, Japanese and Fili- couver. So in Hawaii the people of pinos, who, learning the lesson of brother- Canada, the United States and Aus- hood in Hawaii; where all Pacific races tralia conveniently meet. meet and mingle, now preach that doc- The Pan-Pacific Exposition may be trine in Oriental lands, while still others, made the excuse for lowering the bars who have come to us and have studied temporarily so that Chinese and Japan- and worked with the movement in Ha- ese citizens may visit the exposition and waii, are now spreading the propaganda their relatives in Hawaii, and at the same of Pan-Pacific Patriotism in almost time meet and become acquainted with every land of the Pacific. the peoples from all parts of the Great Happy Hawaii has ever remained the Ocean. one small point in all the Pacific of To invite the races and peoples of the which no other land is jealous. Here all Pacific to the Pan-Pacific Exposition and races of the Pacific live and work to- its attendant conferences and congresses, THE MID-I-ACIFIC 121 a representative of the Pan-Pacific a concrete form to the Pacific countries Union should be sent around the Pacific. at the opportune time. Local Pan-Pacific Conferences have Any plan of Pan-Pacific preparedness been held in Sydney, for Australasia, should be tried out in Australasia as well and in San Francisco, for the, Pacific as in Hawaii. Western America should Coast. The patriotic and friendly co- be brought into the movement, the Pan- operation of Pacific races should be kept Pacific workers co-operating with the to the fore, for the .-novement must be National Parks service and the National patriotic and educational as well as com- Forestry service, as well as with any mercial. . Pacific Coast Tourist or Commercial Perhaps at present the best serious bodies desiring to co-operate with the study of the work can be made in Ha- movement for the advancement of Pa- waii, where the Pacific races may be cific interests that benefit the entire Pa- studied first hand, and the best practical cific. Japan is ready now to give her methods for getting them to work to- co-operation, and China is willing.. gether for each other tried out ; and this Australia, particularly, is interested in is being done. Already, Australia, New the plan for a Pan-Pacific Trade and Zealand, the South Sea Islands and Tourist Information Bureau in San South America have sent exhibits to the Francisco, from which might branch out Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum in Ho- Pan-Pacific work to other American nolulu. Java, Japan and California are cities. This should be carefully studied preparing others, and so a nucleus of a from every angle, but with respect and complete Pan-Pacific Commercial Mu- consideration to the wishes of our trans- seum of exhibits is gathering at the Pacific co-workers. cross-roads of the Pacific, that may at Pan-Pacific Clubs have been organ- cable notice be sent to any part of the ized in many Pacific lands, their heads, Great Ocean when and where an exhibi- by the charter of the Pan-Pacific Union, tion is about to be opened. are Vice-Presidents of the Union, and Australia has promised to send young this plan of affiliating all of the around- men from the civil service, to begin in the-Pacific' bodies with the central, per- Hawaii an acquaintance with the Pacific manent, working body should be extend- races, and study tourist work before being ed, it being part of the plan to have the sent on around the Pacific to train for Pacific governments appoint directors the secretaryship of Chambers of Com- who shall remain in Hawaii as informa- merce or Tourist Bureaux. tion agents as well as instructors in the A Pan-Pacific Commercial College for Pan-Pacific Commercial College course, young business men of all Pacific races these being directors of the Pan-Pacific it is hoped will be added to the work of Union. the Mid-Pacific Institute in Honolulu, The activities of Hawaii have been and it has been suggested by some of the brought about because of the many men Pacific lands that the buildings erected of Pacific races resident there who wish on the Pan-Pacific grounds be so con- to work together, and because, almost structed as to permanently remain as daily, men from- various Pacific lands either commercial museums of the lands arrive in' Honolulu and are met by their erecting them or buildings in a Pan- countrymen who make them acquainted Pacific Commercial University. The with friends they have made among those working out of such a plan may well be of other Pacific nationalities resident at studied in preparation for presentation in the Cross-Roads of the Pacific. 122 THE MID-PACIFIC

It is hoped that every Pacific land shores of which live and labor some two- will take up the work. Hawaii calls a thirds of the population of our globe. conference at Honolulu because of its Hawaii is unselfish in her interest in central location on the Pacific, and be- the Pah-Pacific Union. She places a cause her people of all Pacific races will tentative plan before a conference of all, gladly care for the visitors from around a plan made up by the peoples of the the Great Ocean. Pacific, and when they agree in con- Biannually, the Legislature of Hawaii ference on the manner in which the plans appropriates from forty to one hundred shall be carried out, Hawaii will yield tho'usand dollars to bring to Hawaii as the co-operation that is expected of her. visitors, members of the Federal Con- In the meantime, the Pan-Pacific gress, and here they learn not only the Union asks that its tentative plans be problems Hawaii has to face, but be- carefully studied, weighed, thought over, come intelligently informed on many of and urging that suggestions for improve- the problems of the entire Pacific, re- ments be reduced to writing by any who turning to Washington as advance are interested, and these forwarded to agents of a real Patriotism of the Pacific the Secretary in Honolulu, that he may —from now on the Great Theatre of the place them before the peoples of the World's Commerce, and about the Pacific.

The Pan-Pacific Pavilion, Honolulu.

The Congressional Visit to Hawaii and the Pan-Pacific Club

HEN the two-score or more It was the gift of Mrs. London to Ha- Senators and Congressmen from waii, which both she and her husband had WAmerica's Capital pay their bi- come to call their own. annual visit to Hawaii as guests of the "Alexander Hume Ford, the presiding Territory, the entertainment always ac- genius of the gathering and whose in- corded them by the men of all races in defatigable interest in his friend London the Pan-Pacific Club is one of the fea- was the real cause of Mrs. London's de- tures of their visit. sire to send the bust to Hawaii in memory Two years ago, during the time of the of her many visits here, spoke of London Congressional visit, Jack London was as one of the factors in building up the the exponent to the party of the plans of fabric of Pan-Pacificism, and as such was the Pan-Pacific Union. On the occasion revered by the club. of their last visit, a bust of the distingu- "Mr. Elston, before drawing the flag ished Californian was unveiled at the back from the bronze features, stated Pan-Pacific gathering, on the first anni- that he had known London in his young versary of the day his ashes were in- manhood at the time he was absorbed in terred. and obsessed with socialism, of the type From the local press is taken the fol- which was arrant but which he modified lowing comment : in later years. He felt that London's "A life-like bust of Jack London was genius was a genius for the benefit of the unveiled last night in the presence of a world. distinguished gathering, including the "The Governor spoke of his long per- members of the Congressional Party, the sonal acquaintance with London and gave Governor of Hawaii, a former governor some interesting data concerning the per- of the Islands, and a large number of mission which he as the president of the members of the Pan-Pacific Club, repre- Board of Health had given to London to sented by Hawaiians, Japanese, Portu- visit the Molokai Settlement, and was guese, Chinese, Koreans and Filipinos. satisfied that his description of life there As a fitting tribute to the state which had the effect of bettering the world's called Jack London its own son, Repre- understanding of the life of the people sentative Arthur Elston, of Berkeley, un- of the Leper settlement. veiled the bust, which had been draped with a Hawaiian flag, the gift to the club A Friend Talks of the late Queen Liliuokalani. As the "R. 0. Matheson, editor of The Adver- folds of the flag which London loved so tiser, Hawaii's morning paper, said he had well fell away, the bust, reposing on a been an intimate friend of London's for marble pedestal, fairly glowed as the real years, and this friendship grew out of Jack London' under the flood of lights. what at the beginning was an enmity

123 124 THE MID-PACIFIC

Bust of Jack London, by Finn H. Froelich, and presented to the Pan-Pacific Club of Honolulu by Mrs. Charmian Kittredge London, who, with her husband, were ardent 'workers in the Pan-Pacific Movement. THE MID-PACIFIC 125

caused by an editorial he had written enough pieces to supply the dozens of concerning his literary works. Their guests. The seeds would be distributed, friendship began during an Inter-Island he said, to the schools to plant. cruise, and lasted until London's death. Another speaker was William Kw ai As a visitor at Glen Ellen for a week he Fong, who spoke of the Chinese Ameri- had had opportunity to become absorbed cans born in the Islands, and their Ameri, in London's life and to know his great canism and loyalty to the United States, ness of heart, his charities, his little kind- and said his own son was now at Water- nesses to people, his loyalty to his friends vliet Arsenal, on the mainland, awaiting and his vast breadth of mind. He assert- his chance to fight for his Flag. He ed that had London lived a few years asked the Congressmen to remember the longer he would have been hailed as Chinese loyalty and to give them a the Tolstoi of America. He had not "square deal." an atom in his being of race prejudice and believes that the real man dwelt be- There was much frank speaking neath the skin and did not concern the between spokesmen for the Orient color of the skin, nor the slant of the eye. and Occident, several of the Congres- sional speakers referring to the gathering, Hawaii's Problems at which there were representative Ha- waiians, Filipinos, Japanese, Koreans, Representative Oscar E. Bland, of In- Portuguese, Chinese, Americans and diana, spoke of Hawaii's problems which British. Japan, China and Brazil were the people of Hawaii must keep before represented by their local consuls. The the Congressmen and help Congress to seating arrangements were such that a solve. He said he had not previously representative of each of the na- spoken on local issues, but as a lawyer he tionalities was seated at each of the had to keep silent until the evidence was twelve tables. all in. He had heard people talk of Ha- waii's problems, who had an ax to grind ; One of the notable speeches on a na- from some who were well posted and tional topic affecting the Oriental was others who were not, but he believed these made by Representative B. F. Welty of problems could be worked out satisfac- Ohio, who came out squarely in favor of torily to all the people of the Islands. He so amending the naturalization and the paid a tribute to the loyalty of the Island- immigration laws as to permit Orientals ers to the Flag, a loyalty as strong as that to become naturalized citizens, while only of the descendants on the mainland of those would be permitted to enter the those who fought to raise the Flag over country who intended to become citizens. the Republic of 1776. "Our immigraton laws were made at a W. R. Farrington spoke mostly of the time when we were using ox carts," he pie belt of the United States because he said. "They need to be revised up to the came from Maine, a part of the belt, and present age of automobiles and aero- then proceeded to cut the biggest pie ever planes." made in Honolulu, a pie made from the The East and the West largest and the prize pumpkin of Santa Clara County, California, which had been Dr. Harvey W. Temple, Representative sent to Honolulu especially for use at the from Pennsylvania and a member of unveiling ceremonies on behalf of the the Foreign Affairs Committee of the Jack London bust. He cut the first piece National House of Representatives, spoke and then an army of waiters cut it into forcibly, as follows : 126 THE MID-PACIFIC

"It is essential to the best development the ideas, the philosophies and the ethics of Hawaii for the great part she is to of the East and West, worked out through play as the meeting place of the West and the system of dual education that would the East that the young Orientals in Ha- produce men and women able to appreci- waii be given a dual education, in order ate each viewpoint and translate the views that there may be here citizens able to of each for the mutual benefit of both. understand both the West and the East There are more points of resemblance and to interpret the West to the East and between the most widely divergent peo- the East to the West for the better under- ples than there are points of difference. standing of both. and, after all, when all the differences are "In these 'islands there could be worked worked out, people are 'brothers under out a common ground for the meeting of their skins! "

Children of all races at Kaiulani School. lined ut to Greet the national lawmakers. The late Ex-Queen Liliuokalani at her last appearance in public, again on the throne.

The Passing of America's Only Queen ---Liliuokalani of Hawaii

It was Ex-Queen Liliuokalani who in- returned to the throne room of the Pal- stituted the Annual Celebration of the ace, and here all came to do homage to 17th of September as Pan-Pacific or Bal- the Queen, lying in state. boa Day. Absent from her palace for Liliuokalani, ex-Queen of Hawaii, died twenty-three years, she returned for the at her Washington Place residence on first time in that period, to receive from November 11, and was buried from the the hands of delegates from all Pacific Royal Palace on the 19th, her funeral lands the flags of their countries, to be cortege being one of the most dramatic presented in turn by her to the Pan- ever accorded Royalty in any land. Pacific Union. With her own hands she Her Dramatic Funeral sewed together the silken flag of Hawaii which she presented. History was written in Hawaii for all On November 19, 1917, she once more time when Liliuokalani, eighth and last

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monarch of the islands, was given burial stately Episcopal church service intoned with a state funeral whose beauty, vivid by "haole" clergy, and the music that is color and impressiveness combined played over the bodies of Americans and ancient and modern days–the regime of Englishmen and Occidentals everywhere a Pacific monarchy and the democracy rose and fell even as the Hawaiians of a United States territory. chanted of their royal departed. High up in green Nuuanu valley, over- Handsome floral wreaths made by looking the city under its palms and its skilled florists, symbols of the grief as flowering trees ; overlooking the har- striking as the kahilis,, shed over the bor and the waters stretching out to a room a wide fragrance, and through the purple sea, the queen was borne in a mortuary atmosphere there came the catafalque draped in the black of con- sharp commands of uniformed officers ventional mourning. But that crape- outside, the clang of shod hoofs on the hung catafalque was drawn to the royal paving as United States cavalry entered . mausoleum by two hundred brawny sons the grounds, an occasional beat of drums, of Hawaii—men of the waterfront trade click of rifles, and the multitudinous —"poolas," who revived in their custom tread of marching feet. For military and attire memories of those far-gone honors were to be the queen's, as well days when kings and queens ruled their as the tribute of her island race. commoners in these islands of the sea. As the great cortege wound its slow Spectacle is Unique way from that territorial capitol which Never before in Hawaii — perhaps was the Iolani palace of the queenship, never in any other part of the world— it passed over soil made historic by the has a funeral united such diverse ele- battles and the processions of monarchs ments, had such striking contrasts of of long ago. It passed over soil once color, custom, nationality and settings. the fighting ground of clans, the fight- And nowhere but in Hawaii could the ing ground where Kamehameha the picture be reproduced that was given to Great established supremacy, drove his the sight of thousands as the queen's enemies up the valley to the precipitous casket was borne to its waiting catafalque Pali, and by his victory united the islands in front of the capitol. under one dominion. To that dominion Queen Liliuokalani had succeeded ; she Black, gloomy black, draped the south had ruled for two brief years ; and on doorways of that which had been the Sunday the last ruler passed again over queen's palace. The crape-hung cata- the path of victory, this time as the falque stood at the front of the steps. mourned sovereign who in later years Stretching from it to the very gates of had acquiesced in the march of political the capitol were lines of men in brilliant evolution that brought her dethronement. array—the poolas of the waterfront, each with hand on rope, waiting to draw their New and Old Mingle regal carriage of the dead. At the throne room, while gorgeous Military Drawn Up kahilis made a kaleidoscope of colors ; while from the high walls painted sov- On each side of the poolas were massed ereigns of long ago gazed from gilded the military—the browns and olives of frames at this funeral of the last of the khaki-clad men, the glistening white their line ; while the keen, heart-thrilling of the officers' uniforms and of a de- wailing of sad Hawaiian women pene- tachment of Japanese sailors from the trated the heavy air, there was also the cruiser Tokiwa. Beyond the military THE MID-PACIFIC 129 were native societies en masse—in white, the dais, there were no seats in the room, in deepest black, and in colors of various all the invited guests—save the govern- hues—a great mass of mourners. Some or's'party, the congressional party, mili- already were moving into line on King tary officers of high rank, and high Street, and far away a drum beat as the chiefs and chiefesses of the old regime— procession prepared to begin its march. being seated in rows of chairs on the In the ranks of the poolas were lanais, where they could look through torches, flaming and smoking under the the long French windows into the open sun. These torches of the oily kukui throne room. nut bound in ti leaves represented the A time of wailing, such as will proba- burning torch of the Kalakaua dynasty, bly never again be heard in the throne and they burned low and flickered to ex- room, was followed by the soft, sweet tinction as the catafalque passed to the chanting in Hawaiian of Queen Liliuo- mausoleum and the casket was borne to kalani's name-song, which was sung the the vault. first time when the name "Liliu" was It is estimated that 40,000 people wit- given to the baby girl by her father. nessed the procession, and there were With the final Amen, a moment of thousands of strangers who saw a sight silence followed before the governor they will never see again. turned and slowly left the throne room, Royal indeed was the setting for the followed by his staff and many of the funeral, and as the military, naval, con- military officers. This was the signal sular and other representatives united for the breaking up of the congregation, in paying their tributes the fact was im- but all of the people on the lanais held pressed upon every beholder that the their places until the feather-capped pall- new order was rendering sincere respect bearers bearing the casket, with its inner to the memory of the old. burden of steel-coffined royalty, had Tall kahilis, many of them made from passed through the corridor and out to the feathers of birds no longer seen nor the waiting catafalque. Inside the throne heard by man, stood watch over the still room several members of the congres- form, and mingled their exotic loveliness sional party remained standing in solemn with the myriads of flowers' that loving silence until the room had been emptied hearts had sent as a final offering to a of its royal dead and the kahili bearers, queen. taking with them the royal kahilis on High chiefs and chiefesses of the olden standards so high they had to be in- days, their garb of mourning overtopped clined forward to pass through the high by the cape of royal yellow, stood living doors of the throne room, had passed sentinels over the dead, while others, into the corridor and taken their stand mindful of the honor that must always be to await the signal for the funeral pro- paid to royalty, stood near, and waved, cession to start on its last journey. with unceasing undulation, the royal ka- It was not till. then that the torches, hilis over the bier. symbol of the Kalakaua dynasty, were From the black-draped entrance of lighted, and their bearers placed at the the capitol to the most remote corner of head of the catafalque. The bearers of the throne room, there was not one jar- the decorations had their place immedi- ring note in the color scheme, which ately in front of the catafalque, while embraced practically every shade and the sacred kahilis and the tabu-stick shadow that is known in the world of were placed just 'behind. colors. Wailing and chanting of Hawaiians in Except for the two throne chairs on the grounds and just outside the palace 130 THE MID-PACIFIC

L,- taliuokalani on the throne. Her two short years as monarch were not happy ones, for always there was intrigue, plotting, and restlessness among the court and people. THE MID-PACIFIC 131 gates accompanied the placing of the son of an American sea captain, then a casket in the catafalque, while the poolas pupil in an adjacent school. This event tightened their long black-corded ropes has been described as a "courtship over and made ready to start with their royal the school fence," Dominis and his burden toward its last resting place. schoolmates having been given to the sly habit of climbing the fence to catch Queen Liliuokalani a glimpse of the dark princes and prin- Her life and activities have been fol- cesses. Dominis, who married her in lowed with international interest from 1862, held high military rank in the the day, nearly twenty-seven years ago, kingdom and was for years governor of when she acceded to the throne left va- Oahu and a member of the house of cant by the death of King Kalakaua. nobles. Few figures in recent American history Hospitalities extended by the princess have been given more attention than and her consort to notable visitors, in- hers, though she has spent most of her cluding the officers of naval ships of all life on an island in the Pacific, remote nations, added to those of the palaces of from the great mainland cities and the the sovereigns, contributed greatly to the national capital. social distinction of, the Hawaiian capi- Lydia Kamakaeha Liliuokalani was tal. Princess Lydia was possessed of a born in Honolulu on September 2, 1838, grace of disposition which in combina- the descendant of a long line of native tion with a manner exceedingly unassum- Hawaiian chiefs. In conformity with ing made her intensely popular. While the Hawaiian custom, particularly of the giving an informal reception for dis- aristocracy, she was given away in in- tinguished visitors, assisting at a charity fancy to another chiefly couple. Her or church fair, attending the rehearsal foster parents placed her in the Royal of a children's party, etc., it was not un- School, established for royalties by usual for her personally to tender infor- American Protestant missionaries, where mation to newspaper men present which she received an excellent English educa- she deemed they might desire. This tion besides being nurtured in the faith obliging trait continued even after she of the American Puritan fathers. As she became the reigning sovereign. grew up Princess Liliuokalani became a leader in the activities of the. Hawaiian Assumes Royal Place Evangelical Church. In 1866 she became Proclaimed heir apparent by her leader of the choir of Kawaiahao Church, brother, King Kalakaua, on his accession the old coral edifice erected by early con- in 1874, Liliuokalani immediately as- verts of the missionaries, which is still sumed her royal place, touring the islands one of the landmarks of Honolulu, and to annonce herself to her people, and while occuping that position composed receiving, as she has said, such an ova- the Hawaiian national anthem, "Hawaii tion as only Hawaiians know how to Ponoi," at the request of Kamehameha give. She twice became regent during V. During her checkered career she com- her brother's absences, once when he posed hundreds of songs, among them toured the world, and again when he the strangely pathetic melody, "Aloha visited California only to be brought Oe," which has become a world classic. back a corpse in the U. S. S. Charleston. Courtship and Marriage Accession to Queenship While attending school the princess In 1887 Queen Kapiolani and Liliuo- fell in love with John 0. Dominis, the kalani represented Hawaii at Queen Vic- 132 THE MID-PACIFIC toria's jubilee. The latter relates in her many of the men who helped set up the book how she was kissed and embraced provisional government in January, 1893, by Victoria, and everywhere received have preceded her to the grave, there with unusual attention. Upon her return remain many others who now feel un- from London she found her brother in affected regret at the passing of this last difficulties. The foreign element, or ruler of Hawaii. "missionary party," as she alleged, had From the storms of revolutionary undermined him and forced upon him a times Hawaii emerged into the sunshine constitution that virtually stripped him and sweetness of a brighter, a kindlier of royal power. It was upon the arrival day, a day in which the queen received of the Charleston with the body of Kala- her full measure of respect, and was kaua—whose sudden death in San Fran- treated by residents and strangers alike cisco in January, 1891, was unheralded, not merely with sympathy, but with there being no cable crossing the Pacific great deference and ceremonial courtesy. then—that Liliuokalani was proclaimed The dead queen gave, during her life, Queen of the Hawaiian Islands. Her ac- her name to Liliuokalani 'Gardens, land cession (January 29, 1891) was marked given by her to trustees who looked for- with incidents that proved to be a correct ward to a great Pan-Pacific Exposition foreboding of the brief and stormy reign on these grounds, the opening ceremo- that followed. nies of which it was hoped would be pre- But since her reign and overthrow sided over by the Ex-Queen of Hawaii. some of the very men most active in tak- In the passing of Liliuokalani, the ing an open stand against the queen—a Pan-Pacific Movement has lost a good stand which meant conflict and the down- friend, who took a keen interest in the fall of one part or another, have since brotherhood of races that live about the been among the queen's sincerest and Great Ocean of which her kingdom was most trusted advisers. And though the center.

rImerica's only throne room, as it has stood for thirty years. Sunset from Lahaina.

)4,6 Meandering on Maui The Adventures of Two Intrepid Cyclists.

By WOODS PETERS vr.k (Maui, popularly known as the "Vallel, Isle," is the second island in size' of the Hawaiian group, and a day's or' overnight's journey by steamer from Honolulu. In this series of short articles, Woods Peters tells of the many beauty spots and scenic wonders of this remarkable island.) CHAPTER. I. but unforeseen obstacles prevented the Mostly. Preparation. departure of two, so one companion T HAD long been my ambition to and I set out across the deep blue sea make a trip about the Island of to "lands unknown." I Maui on a bicycle, and as many We spent days in mapping out our advantages were offered last summer, route, and when that was finished we I obeyed the impulse and started the directed our attention to the wheels. tour. We took them apart, piece by piece, Originally four of us planned to go, and thoroughly cleaned all moving sur-

133. 134 THE MID-PACIFIC

faces, soaked them in oil and replaced During the afternoon we sailed them, still dripping. With careful ad- through calm seas and at 4:30 had justment this gave. a practically fric- skirted the island of Molokai, steamed tionless wheel. A large carrier rack past Lanai, and drawn up off Lahaina, was bolted on behind the seat, packs, Maui, our destination. canteens, kodaks, provisions, and ac- Landings at most of the island ports cessories strapped on, and all was in are made from lighters, and so with readiness. this. A small boat drew up alongside, Expecting also to hike long distances was filled with freight—our wheels we went as light as possible, carrying topping the load, and shied off land- only a blanket, waterproof bag, extra ward. The ladder was then lowered clothing, and a few duplicate parts for from the upper deck and the first class the wheels. passengers began to descend. CHAPTER II. Really, it was quite interesting to First Day—"Good-bye Honolulu." watch the different pairs of feet that Our arrival at the wharf was made came down those stairs. (That was all in the midst of bustle and confusion, we could see.) Big feet, little feet, but after a half hour's strenuous labor pretty feet, ugly feet, graceful feet, we managed to sign our names to the awkward feet, slender feet, fat feet, bills-of-lading and were at liberty to feet toeing in, feet toeing out, feet in take our wheels on board. These were white, feet in black, feet in cotton, feet placed on the main deck near the stern in silk, feet, feet, feet, nothing but feet, rail—our berths—and we returned until five boatloads were filled with ashore to receive the last warnings, ad- those feet, then the ladder was raised vices, and farewells from the friends and we people of the main deck stepped, who had come down to see us off. jumped, or fell, as the case might be, We floated free from the dock, aboard the dancing lighter. backed into the stream, and headed out. "Hey, look out for your hand ! Jump! The friends behind grew fainter, wav- Wait a minute. Go on, get over there ! ing handkerchiefs became a mere blur, You in the back ! Say ! Do you hear ? the roar of the city slowly ceased, we LOOK OUT for that boat ! KEEP passed the last buoy, quartered the HER OFF, I tell you!! Room for one rising sea, and were off. more. Come on, get a move on! Now ! A rough passage, a rolling deck, Watch your , step. . . . J-U-M-P ! crowded with nondescript passengers Shove her off ! All right, next? And (we were going "deck," whiCh is we were safely started ashore. polite for steerage), and that much- On the wharf I spied an old school- feared malady of the ocean wave, sea- mate, who gave us a delightful ride sickness, is sure to result. I started about the town in his machine and who counting the victims, but when we seemed much interested in our contem- struck the channel after a two hours' plated trip. When he learned of our run I gave it up as ,a hopeless task. plans to go along the south coast he Let me warn you, my friends, never exclaimed: attempt a "deck passage" unless you "Good night ! You poor nuts ! I was are thoroughly hardened to scenes such down that way last week hunting wild as are sure to result when your good cattle, and it's the most lonely and for- vessel lifts her nose to the first swell saken spot I've ever seen. Nothing but from the distant deep. ponenies, kiawes, and cut-throat Chi- THE MID-PACIFIC 135

nese. It's all they can afford to do The afternoon's ride again followed down that way. You'll never make it ! the shore line, with cattle lands still on Of course I'm not trying to throw cold our left until we reached Kihei. water on your plans, but—!" All day we had seen large clouds of At 6 p. m. we left him and rode east dust drifting over the bay from this over fine pavements for four miles to point, and had pondered on their cause. a long sandy beach where we made We now saw ahead of us a broad belt our first camp. of dust flats, from which the strong Settling down in our warm bags, we trade winds rushing across the isthmus, gazed far out over the channel to where lifted the earth in thick fogs and swept the sun slowly sank behind Lanai, fill- it far across the water. The road led ing the sea and sky with a transparent directly through this wind-swept zone. flood of gold, silver, and crimson. As and after a five-minute race, we the colors faded, a thin silver crescent emerged on the other side safely, but floated free of the darkening clouds, red as old brick. However, a small sailed majestically on into the sky, and stream nearby soon removed a portion we slept. of the impedimenta and we continued our journey to Kihei. CHAPTER III. Just beyond this "city" of ten men Second Day—Lands of Pleasure. and one store, with the prick of a The second day dawned clear and thorn and the whistle of escaping air, warm. The morning sun still nestled a tire went flat, the second of the day. beneath the low eastern clouds, though However, we were soon on again, the light of the evening had long since proceeding over roads alternating be- filled the earth with beauty. The roll- tween sand and dust, both absolutely ing green breakers, crashing over the bottomless, until four miles had been long beach and against the rocky shore, plowed, then as my companion was tempted us to once more swim over "dead tired" (to say nothing of my- their crests ere we departed. self), we cut through the brush to the With breakfast eaten and camp beach, and made our second night's broken, we wheeled for miles over well camp on the summit of a high sand oiled roads, passed precipitous valleys dune, commanding a view of the beach, and towering pinnacles of rock, by sea and land. mountains of green verdure in whose And there, lying in the cool trade dark recesses flashed foaming cascades winds under the open air, we took a by the score. last look at the fast darkening sky, Then an hour's run through rolling pulled the blankets about our ears and cattle ranges, and we lunched at Mac- closed our eyes. , Gregor's landing. . (To be continued.) 136 THE MID-PACIFIC

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Singapore "Melting Pot of the East."

By CHARLTON D. PERKINS.

INGAPORE is an island swinging and its shape resembles that of an egg, like a diamond pendant off the being twenty-eight miles long by four- S southern tip of the Malay Penin- teen in width. sula, and only separated by a narrow Singapore City or "Lion City," as strait of three-quarters of a mile, from formerly called by the natives years the mainland of Asia. It is one of the ago, owing to the great number of lions many islands that decorate the central which infested the island, is located on seas, and forming a link in that im- the south shore of the island, facing portant chain extending south to the the southeast. By reason of its geo- continent of Australia. It is situated graphical position it is sometimes called about eighty miles north of the equator, the "Cross-Roads" to and from the

137 138 THE MID-PACIFIC

Eastern and Western Hemispheres, as charging cargo from the remotest quar- all shipping and passenger traffic on ters of the globe, taking in exchange the great highway around the globe spices, rattan, coffee, rubber, tin, and have no other option but to pass a hundred other products for transpor- through the portals of this prosperous tation to the principal markets of the and interesting city. world. Great droves of bronze colored The approach from either the east, coolies form an endless chain into a west, north or south into the harbor is ship's side, loading coal or queer look- one of the most picturesque in the ing cases containing birds' nests, con- world. Its shore lines all about are ,signed to epicures in Hongkong and fringed to the very water's edge by Canton. The Chinaman's greatest dainty forests of coconut trees, underneath is soup made from glutinous birds' which may be discerned the fisherman's nests found in the caves of the various picturesque little bamboo hut—and in islands around Singapore. bold contrast stand the twentieth cen- The docks alongside which your tury buildings of modern Singapore. steamers land are called the Tandjong Before your ship swings up to the Pagar wharves, some two miles from massive docks it is completely sur- the city proper, which is easily and com- rounded by a flotilla of little canoes fortably reached within a few minutes filled with dozens of young Malays, by garrie or jinrickisha. ,At the docks who paddle, shriek and banter at you you will be greeted by anxious hotel to toss coins into the water. These representatives, who may be intrusted amphibious youngsters present a strange with your baggage in perfect safety. appearance, their once coal-black hair Singapore is a free port; no customs having become bleached by the corn regulations will detain you. bined action of the salt water and sun Singapore has a remarkably pleasant until they resemble more than any- climate despite its proximity to the thing else the woman who "spilled the equator ; but under general circum- peroxide." stances a daily rainfall tempers the heat They bail with an automatic action so thoroughly that you will find sleep- of the leg, using the hollow of the foot, ing under a blanket very comfortable. which acts as a dipper and throws the Within eighty miles of the equator, it water from the canoe with regular has an abundance of moisture, either strokes, keeping time with the dip of deposited by dews or gentle refreshing the paddle ; and when a coin drops showers, which keep its atmosphere they let go of the paddle and shed their cool, prevent the parching effects of the canoe without the slightest effort. There sun, and promote continual verdure. It is a splash, reflections of white soles, seldom experiences furious gales. If bubbles and a commotion below, and more than ordinary heat has accumu- presently the diver emerges from the lated moisture and electricity, a squall water, the coin in his teeth, and flips generally sets in, followed by a heavy naturally into his boat, it actually seem- shower of rain, but such squalls sel- ing as though he had never lost a dom exceed one or two hours in dura- stroke. tion. The harbor of Singapore is always The general character of the climate active, and along its two miles of as to temperature is that the heat is wharves may be counted almost every great and continuous, but never exces- commercial flag of the world, dis- sive, and that there is little distinction THE MID-PACIFIC 139

of seasons, summer and winter differ- fare, each street being a market filled ing from each other only by one or with human models for an army of two degrees of the thermometer. Thun- painters to portray or sculptors to study der showers are of frequent occurence, —an emporium of living bronze statues but the thunder is by no means so —Japanese, Chinese, Siamese, Malays, severe as experienced in Java, and Javanese, Burmese, Cingalese, Tamils, seldom destructive to life or property. Sikhs, Parsees, Lascars, Malabars, Hin- Architecturally, Singapore may be doos and heathen of every caste, well proud of the many fine govern- sprinkled now and then with a white- ment and commercial buildings which turbaned Englishman who has estab- everywhere grace her main thorough- lished law and order and reared a fares. Old buildings are being contin- thriving cosmopolitan city out of a once ually pulled down to give place to impenetrable jungle. All these alien more elegant structures, which is a de- heathen and picturesque unbelievers, .cided forerunner of a great commer- these pagans and idolaters, Buddhists, cial future. Brahmins, Jews, Turks, Sun and Fire Of all the interesting sights this great Worshipers, devil dancers and God only city offers, there is none more fascin- ating to the westerner than its street knows what, have congregated here at life. The great array of turbans and this crossroads to toil under the equa- sarongs give color to every thorough- torial sun.

Commercial Square, Singapore, where mingle representatives of every known race. 140 THE MID-PACIFIC The Lake in Summer.

Alpine Life in Australia

By FRED C. GOVERS.

ale INCE the outbreak of war in Eu- land of droughts and perennial sunshine rope, the civilized nations (and where surfing and sailing are the only S Germany) know that Australia is rational recreations and they would a country capable of producing men, never think of seeking snowland and money, wheat, wool and all the other its attendant sport and recreation in sinews of war, and that it contains im- the Antipodes. But in the days to come mense tracts of rich land awaiting the when peace reigns, and people have lei- settlement of soldiers after the war sure and inclination s for holiday-mak- clouds lift. The world in general is ing, the snowclad peaks of the Great now aware of Australia's potentialities Australian Alps will be one of the in a way it never was before, but even most compelling attractions to over- yet the average person on the other side seas visitors. of the world vaguely regards it as a Kosciusko, Australia's highest moun-

141 142 THE MID-PACIFIC tain, a "hump" 7328 feet above the The Australian has proven himself sea level, on the gigantic ridge that just as worthy of the name of "sports- forms the backbone of the range, sit- man" on the snowfield as on the cricket uated in the southeast corner of N. S. or football field. skiing, tobogganing, W., is the Switzerland of the South, skating and alpine climbing he takes and it compares with all that Switzer- to like a duck to water. A sportsman, land has to offer in the way of win- well known in the Swiss Alps, was ter sports, modeled in the European heard to remark while watching two of lines, mountain scenery (with the Australia's champions on skiis flash Snowy river and its numerous tribu- past him with that magnificent pace one taries and lakes to break the dazzling gets on frozen space : They "have mas- whiteness of its winter aspect), clean tered the art, and to my mind are more fine health-bringing air, blue skies and graceful even than the hardy Scandin- glorious sunshine. avians." The journey to Kosciusko from Syd- But it not an expert's sport. The ney necessitates a night in the train beauty of it is that it is everyone's. to Cooma, an old town in the heart Women and children, all can enjoy the of a prosperous squatting • district, and thrill of a rush down a snow-clad a 50-mile motor drive from Cooma to mountain an skiis, or the joy of cleav- the hotel. The road for motoring is ing the air at fifty miles an hour on splendid and for the greater part of the a toboggan. year the whole • 50 miles can be accom- Then, too, what could be better than plished by motor, but occasionally when to spend a day on skiis, exploring the the snow lies in the gap, a few miles snowy crags that form Australia's from the hotel, between four and five "roof ?" This is Australia's new sport, feet deep; that portion of the road has and the government is doing all it can to be negotiated by sledge, which, with to give the people and visitors an op- its sturdy ponies, and jingling bells portunity to taste the joys of alpine in the stilly air, is one of the romantic life. The world is beginning to realize bits of local color that most visitors that Australia has her "Cresta Runs" hate to be deprived of. and "Mont Blanes," and that the Aus- The hotel is situated in a compara- tralian sportsman has risen to the oc- tively sheltered valley between many casion. high peaks and is 16 'miles from the During the months of May, June, summit of the mountain, so there is July and August, the Kosciusko winter plenty of scope for alpine climbers who season, there are no daisies visible, .do most of their excursions in winter nothing but endless stretches of spark- on skiis. In summer the summit is ling white and the stunted trees and easily reached by motor or on foot and undergrowth with the branches picked regular expeditions of travelers scale out by the hand of . the snow queen. the heights daily in the summer sea- The gentle slope of the near hills and son and have for their reward a pan- the golf links in the front of the hotel orama of surprising loveliness. All (in summer the links are also Elysian around are peaks capped with snow fields of blue and gold), are trans- and patches of snow on the hillsides formed into play grounds for the skiier that lie in shadow, while the lower and the tobogganer. Here the novices slopes are carpeted with white and become initiated into the fascinating mauve daisies, golden immortellas and mysteries of balancing on strange gon- blue bells, like Elysian fields. dola-like planks on the feet, and here THE MID-PACIFIC 143

the expert does the seemingly impos- participate, are held and keen interest sible shooting over chasms which is taken in the 'various events, particu- abound for his special delectation, or larly in the skii races which are run gliding gracefully down the "Grand on the Kerry course, about half a mile Slam" at the rate of 60 miles an hour. from the hotel. At the foot of the hotel is the lake, Many other joyous entertainments an expanse of over six acres which is take place at Kosciusko and there is fed by the Snowy river and which in music and dancing every night in the the summer time is a happy hunting big ballroom. Card tournaments, auc- ground for trout, but in winter has a tions and concerts are organized for surface of ice many inches thick, which patriotic and philanthropic purposes, makes an incomparable skating ground, and during one week in the winter much appreciated by the votaries of the season, 1917, over $500 was raised by delightful art. Very picturesque is the these means among the guests for the effect when the lake is covered with succor of the widows and orphans of skaters, the women in their short skirts France. or bloomers, of dark material, high This scribe feels lovingly towards boots, puttees, and sports coats or Kosciusko, because of all places in this sweaters of emerald green, cerise, blue, care-ridden world, there one is least rose or gold and their white woolen oppressed by the consciousness of it, caps and floating scarfs, and the men and it is hard to realize that so much in regulation alpine costume, against is wrong with the world when the crisp a background of perfect white and a rare air and the mountain heights re- clear blue sky overhead. juvenate the tired body, reanimate the Every season Kosciusko gives way to spirits, give a glow to eyes and cheek, the carnival spirit and programs of and fill the heart with an inexplicable outdoor sports in which all the guests "Joie de vivre."

Ready for a quarter-mile 'whiz. 144 THE MID-PACIFIC

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NORTH v AMERICA

The Hawaiian Islands, not very large, but important in many ways.

Promotion Pays

By E. A. BERNDT Chairman. Hawaii Promotion Committee

HAT you are reading every hopeless. Obstacles of indifference 'on day of the advance of the the part of transportation companies W Allies, taking trench after upon the mainland have been overcome, trench and then consolidating the gains and their friendly co-operation secured. and presenting a new front, tells the Without this friendly aid tourist travel story of the scientific publicity work de- to the Hawaiian Islands might still be veloped by the Hawaii Promotion Com- a negligible quantity, although a gen- mittee on behalf of the entire group of eral development of the tourist business Hawaiian Islands. would no doubt have resulted, naturally. For fifteen years the Hawaii Promo- Throughout all these years of labor, tion Committee has worked consistently in the endeavor to retain the friendly and persistently in a zealous effort to interests of those who have become make Hawaii better and better known and to secure the co-operation of trans- friends, the very fact that Hawaii has portation interests, without which the been considered by the travel world as Committee's efforts would be almost a part of remoter areas in the Pacific,

145 146 THE MID-PACIFIC accounts in a measure for much of its its third number (March, 1911), pub- popularity, for, detached as the Ha- lished the first article on this subject, waiian Islands are from the mainland, and has always supported it. Follow- and because they are away down among ing the creation of this park, the Pro- the lazy latitudes of the Pacific, and as motion Committee was active in secur- such considered in an off-corner of the ing the direct publicity co-operation of world, travelers yearn to visit the group. the Bureau of National Parks at Wash- There is disappointment among some ington, and had the pleasure of this that there is so much up-to-dateness in summer, entertaining an official repre- the life of the islands, but the one sentative of this bureau to investigate charming memory, aside from the beau- both National Park areas for the bu- tiful foliage, the wonderful shore and reau, which this winter will issue its mountain scenery, the great active and first publicity booklet on behalf of the extinct volcanoes, is the superb all-year new Hawaii Park. round climate. These are all achievements of which The Hawaii Promotion Committee the Promotion Committee is proud of has been a helpful factor in the de- the' part it has taken. The committee velopment of civic convention ideas, feels that it has an interest in both and in return for this help the civic the Pan-Pacific and Pacific-American convention has been a helpful factor movements, both of which are intended in the development of promotion work to bring greater publicity and exploita- and in bringing people of all the islands tion to the Pacific than ever before. In into a better understanding of the aims fact, the Promotion Committee stands and objects of the promotion commit- for everything in all the islands which tee, partly resulting in the expansion will tend to make the group better of the committee, so that it now has known throughout all the world, and to members froin each of the "outer make more pleasurable and interesting islands," instead of being entirely one the visits of those who have been at- of the seventeen standing committees of tracted to the "Paradise of the Pacific." the Chamber of Commerce of Hono- Inter-Island travel as promoted by lulu. Both have been. active in creat- the committee has resulted in increased ing greater interest in making Kilauea communication and better facilities. All and Haleakala and Waimea Canyon ac- points of interest throughout the group cessible to the travel public. In this can be expeditiously reached and in their interests and objects harmoniously consequence are more attractive. Dur- dovetail. Both organizations have stood ing 1916 Hawaii. -Maui and Kauai, num- for belt roads around each of the bered more visitors than ever before islands ; for permanent roadways to recorded, and 1917 the total will top Kilauea and to Haleakala summit ; for these high water marks notwithstand- improved harbors and steamship land- ing some adverse conditions. The im- ings ; for increased steamer facilities. mutable order of things has rushed One of the crowning efforts, not only Hawaii into the maelstrom of progress, of the Promotion Committee but of the and when we next raise our head above civic convention in joint activity, has the turbulent waters we will have made been the creation of the Hawaii Na- strides in additional hotel accommoda- tional Park by the Congress of the tions and better exploitation of scenic United States, incorporating Kilauea on and climatic assets that will be a sur- the Island of Hawaii and Haleakala on prise. Maui. The Mid-Pacific Magazine in A new field of effective promotion THE MID -PACIFIC 147 propaganda has been opened up with mittee firmly believes that unless the the scientific research of our flora and passenger steamers are all comman- our volcanoes. Rarely an issue of any deered, Hawaii will have an ample re- technical magazine goes out into the turn for its endeavors. The inquiries world without an article on the highly regarding steamship and hotel accom- swcessful work or immediately related modations are heavier than ever before, thereto, of Volcanologist Jaggar. these must indicate that the "Isles of Trade experts, too, are giving this Peace" are in the minds of the trav- baby territory of Uncle Sam particular elers. attention just now with a view of mak- Contrary to expectations our annual ing Hawaii the trade depository of the carnival is being asked after and as the Pacific the great bonded warehouse for carnival committee has just announced business activity in the Far East once its tentative program of tempered pa- conditions settle down to normal. Much triotic, athletic and historic entertain- travel directly connected with the de- ments covering probably four days sire to make Hawaii the commercial much stimulation can be offered the portal of the Orient will follow which tourist, railroad and steamship agents in turn will' induce others to become in their efforts to make even more interested. • The coming winter season will be a attractive a visit to Hawaii, epitomized big surprise to most of us. The. corn- "The Cozy Corner of the World."

Information Roorns, Hawaii Promotion Committee. 148 THE MID-PACIFIC

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.4 Filipino boy with his pack, surmounted by his fighting cock. "Man power" is still the principal mode of transportation in the mountainous districts of the islands, and be he civilized or savage, every Filipino has a fighting bird, of which he takes the tenderest care. army and Navy Club, Manila. Manila

By HAROLD M. PITT President Manila Merchants Association

. 7 HEN we hear mention made our manhood and womanhood—unless V‘, of the Philippines, the thought we chanced to be .1f the old mother of Manila rises instinctively country, Spain, or of the people who to mind. Manila was known to Chi- go to sea in ships — our knowl- nese traders hundreds of years before edge of those far-away possessions Magellan discovered the Philippine came from the brief allusion contained Islands in 1521. In 1570 Legaspi sent in our school geographies to a group a force from Cebu which took Manila of islands lying in the Pacific Ocean, and a year later he proceeded in per- off the coast of China. son to take possession of the city and Occasionally, in butcher shop or -gro- make it the capital of the archipelago. cery store, we heard "Manila" in cbn- There are few of us who cannot, by nection with a wrapping paper. or • feeling back along the strings of mem- smokers would sometimes mention ory to farthest youth, call up in mind "Manila" cigars ; and, in a general the awe that was occasioned by sim- way, we learned that "Manila" rope ple thought of that wonderful country, is good rope. But there it all ended. China—the Flowery Kingdom. And the person who intelligently could But in these childhood dreams were have told of the origin of Manila cigars no pictures of the Philippines. And —that they are made in the capital city from childhood to youth, and on to of -the Philippine Islands from a choice

149 150 THE MID-PACIFIC tobacco of local production ; or who or Kyoto, from where it is but a few could have explained that "Manila" hours to Kobe. rope is composed of a fiber of excep- The trip from Kobe to Nagasaki is tional length, strength, and quality that through the picturesque Inland Sea. is obtained only in the islands of that Nagasaki is the last stop before Ma- oriental archipelago—would have been nila, and this stage of the voyage looked upon as a veritable man of wis- takes one from the changing seasons dom. of the temperate zone into the balmy Sailing from any port of the Pa- air of southern seas that cradle the cific Coast of the United States, four tropic Philippines. weeks brings you to Manila. It is not From Nagasaki to Manila is a four- four weeks of sailing—or steaming, we day voyage. On the passage, the ship should say, for there are stops along sails for hours close to the shore of the the way, quaint and unusual sights historic Island of Formosa, ceded by and people ; things fraught with excite- China to Japan in 1895, following the ment and interest. The ocean voyage war• between those two countries. On itself is a wonderful experience for the fourth day Luzon is sighted — those who have not made it before ; largest of the Philippine Islands—on while to the accustomed traveler it which Manila is situated. Twelve hours comes as an ever-welcome relief from later your ship steams past Corregidor, the turmoil and strain of life on land. the little island made famous by Dewey on that eventful May day of the late Should you happen to be starting from San Francisco five or six days nineties, which marked the advent of will bring you to Honolulu, where a America into the theater of events in the Far East. pause is made that enables you to see this beautiful city and the many at- Below Corregidor, guarding the en- tractive points of interest that have so trance to the bay from the south, are often met your eye in history and Fraile and Carabao islands. These magazine. are hardly more than large rocks jut- ting sheer from the depths of the *sea, Nine or ten days after leaving the but, as with Corregidor, they have Hawaiian Isles, the first stop is made been converted by the United States in the Empire of Japan ; fabled land of into veritable fortresses, impregnable the Shogun and the Mikado. The alike from land and sea. traveler has ample time to see the main From Corregidor down the bay to things of interest in Japan without the great government piers is a scant changing ships. The steamship com- thirty miles, and the traveler steps from panies issue railway transportation be- his ship to the dock alongside which tween ports when it is desired to .make she is moored. This is possible in no a trip overland, and the vessels remain other oriental t port he will visit other at Yokohama and Kobe a sufficient than Manila. length of time to permit of a visit to the important interior cities of Tokyo, Manila, "The Pearl of the Orient," Kyoto, Nagoya, Nara, etc. Tokyo, the as admirers have named it, is differ- ent from every other oriental city, yet capital of Japan, is but a short distance has an orientalism peculiarly its own. from Yokohama, and the trip can be European, Asiatic, American—ancient, made quite readily in a day. Train medieval, modern, Christian, Moham- may then be taken to Nagoya, Nara, medan, heathen—all are combined and THE MID-PACIFIC 151 mingled in the physical city itself and commerce of the Philippine Islands in the three hundred thousand and odd passes through the port of Manila, and people who abide within its gates. the major industries have their homes After the Spaniards had taken pos- in the city. It is the Capital City of session of the city and organized a the islands, as well as being the. great government along the lines to which commercial center, and might well be they were accustomed in their native termed the seat of government, of edu- country, they began the work of for- cation, of industry and of commerce. tifying the city, the result of which is Great strides have been made in the apparent in the massive walls which work of beautifying and improving the now surround the Walled City, and city since that day in August of 1898 which stand as the best example of when, under the protection of Dewey's medieval architecture of this class ex- guns, American forces entered the city tant in the world today. and planted the Stars and Stripes over They also introduced such civilizing old Fort Santiago. Prior to that time, institutions as hospitals, printing plants Manila was known as an unsanitary and universities. The University of unprogressive city. In less than two Santo Homas, Manila, which was decades, with American initiative, and founded early in the seventeenth cen- under the direction of Americans, Ma- tury, is still maintained and is the nila has become one of the most sani- oldest institution of its kind under the tary, healthful cities in the world. Its American flag. climate is nearly ideal, and to the trav- Manila boasts a population of nearly three hundred thousand people and is eler or pleasure-seeker it offers every one of the most cosmopolitan cities convenience for living or transporta- in the world. The great bulk of the tion.

Plaza Santa Cruz, near the Eseolta, Manila's main thoroughfare. 152 THE MID-PACIFIC

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• The Bund at Shanghai. . The Transportation Problem in China

By GEORGE BRONSON REA

040411Eal

Nowhere in the world today is there the men of China—those patriots who a more crying need for transportation brought this about—are to be congrat- facilities than in China. Although boast- ulated upon their great success. It was ing the oldest civilization , of the world, an undertaking of vast proportions— China is farthest behind in the onward long dreamed of, but filled with so march of civilization in this particular many obstacles that it seemed well nigh respect. But the reasons for such a hopeless and impossible of fulfillment. condition are not difficult to understand But the work is far from finished, in when we consider that the new Re- fact it is not fairly begun ; for it is of public is only just emerging from the the greatest importance and of the ut- shadows of an ancient reign filled with most urgency that the new Republic of superstition, arrogance, and titter indif- China be provided with the means for ference to the general welfare of the developing its important natural re- people, into the light of modern prog- sources, and likewise with the means of ress and development. Already a great protecting the country from dangers work has been accomplished in throw- within and without. ing off the yoke of the Manchus, and For thousands of years the four hun-

153 154 THE MID-PACIFIC

dred millions of Chinese have lived vir- ods, thereby building up the country tually by agriculture—and many there along these lines. were who starved—while untold min- Moreover, the construction of rail- eral wealth lay untouched and unde- roads will result in bringing the people veloped throughout many sections of the of the various provinces closer to- country—gold and silver and other min- gether, making each province an in- erals far exceeding even .the dreams of tegral part of the Republic in closer avarice. touch with the• Central Government and While mining is carried on at the more responsive to its national needs present time in various sections of the and duties. interior in a crude and inefficient man- The development of the great natural ner, due to the lack of transportation resources of China is second only in facilities, there is no question but that importance to the maintenance of the these mines can be made to produce honor and peace of the nation. large fortunes, from which not only the From a military standpoint, the fu- owners of the mines but also the Gov- ture peace and prosperity of this great ernment and the people at large would nation absolutely requires an efficient profit, if only transportation facilities and comprehensive transportation sys- were available. At present the product tem through which the military strength of such mines is usually carried by of China may be made available for coolies overland for a considerable dis- national defense in time of national tance until a stream is reached, whence peril. And, in these days of world-war, shipments are made by boats. The it is fitting that thoughtful considera- long distance practically shuts off these tion be given to the subject of national mines from the outside world with the defense. result that only a small amount of the With a modern transportation sys- product ever reaches the market. There tem, intelligently planned and well con- is no doubt but that the mineral re- structed, so as to serve all the prov- sources of China are very great but inces of the republic, it would be pos- until such time as adequate means of sible for the central government to mob- transportation are provided, this great ilize an army within a short space of potential wealth of the nation will re- time on the east coast or on the south main locked up and be of no value to coast, or wherever the exigency might the nation. require, and to protect the nation from It has often been stated that labor foreign aggressions or to suppress in- is cheap in China, and so it is, but even ternal disorders. It would be of im- with the cheap price of labor the pres- mense advantage to the central gov- ent cost of transportation by coolies in ernment, in any crisis, to have the many provinces varies from three to prompt support of those great prov- ten times the cost of transportation by inces which are now without adequate railroad under similar conditions else- transportation facilities, and to be able where. to dispatch troops quickly to or from such provinces as the circumstances In addition to the mineral resources, might require. China, is today reor- means of transportation would result in ganizing her army and many of the greater development of the agricultural troops in the, interior are well drilled resources as well as in the manufacture and well organized, but on account of of numerous products by modern meth- lack of railways and roads such troops THE MID-PACIFIC 155 could be of little value if urgently need- and so on down the list, detailing each ed on the eastern or southern coasts, bitter humiliation which China has suf- on account of the time which would fered. There is only one great nation be required, under present conditions, whose name is conspicuous by reason for these troops to reach the coast. At of its absence. Thus is the lesson least one province is even now spend- burned into the very hearts and souls ing large sums of money in construc- of the youth of Hunan. And there tion of military roads for this very pur- were days when it was exceedingly dan- pose of facilitating the movement of gerous for a foreigner to even pass this troops, but under modern conditions ancient seat of learning. such roads will be of little use from The message which the Yaloshan a military standpoint, on account of the tablet carries to the mind of every loyal great distance which these troops would progressive Chinese is that the repub- be compelled to travel by foot. The lic must be developed, and that the na- central government at Peking will never tion must be placed in a position where have the strength which it should have such humiliations may never again be until each and every province of the suffered, and the most important fac- republic is provided with transporta- tor in such development at this stage tion facilities. of the country's progress is the build- The Yaloshan University, situated on ing of railroads, which, in opening up the opposite side of the Siang River the vast mineral deposits, will create from Changsha in the Province of Hu- new wealth which will flow into the nan, is reputed to be the oldest uni- government coffers, making it possible versity in the world, having had a con- to establish and maintain a strong, ef- tinuous existence for over 1000 years. fective army and navy for the protec- At the entrance of this ancient college, tion and defense of the republic. For there is a great marble tablet, placed the development of her great natural there by Chinese patriots, where the resources would unquestionably mean youth of the country may read and pon- the creation of new wealth, whereby an der well each day as they go to their army and navy might be equipped and studies, the remarkable inscription en- maintained according to modern stand- graven thereon in Chinese characters. ards of efficiency. • Beginning with expressions of deep hu- With the building of these great ar- mility, this tablet tells the story of the teries of commerce, which have long wrongs and oppressions suffered by been planned and long delayed, a new China at the hands of the various for- day will dawn for China. It is for eign governments, and it recalls : those in authority and the young men The Opium War in which Great Brit- to realize the wonderful opportunity ain seized Hongkong; The taking of Indo-China by France ; which is theirs to develop this vast The seizing of Korea by Japan ; country and to make China one of the The taking of Port Arthur by Rus- greatest nations on the face of the sia. globe. 156 THE MID-PACIFIC A fleet of Japanese sampans after a blue-water excursion.

The Educated Fish of Hawaii

By A MALIHINI.

NOTE.—The old-time Hawaiians believe that the invasion of Honolulu Harbor by the alalaua presages the death of a member of the royal family. It is a most remarkable coincidence that a few weeks after the fish had again left the harbor, Liliuokalani, the beloved Ex-Queen of Hawaii, joined her fathers in the Great Beyond. Even before she was stricken with her last illness, while the swarms of fish were still in the harbor, many Hawaiians of the "old school" adopted mourning.

N THE steamer from San Fran- Judging from the hundreds of men, cisco to Honolulu I met people women and children lined up on every O who had been to these islands be- dock, pier and wharf, and all busily en- fore, and was informed by them that Ha- gaged in catching fish, I am quite sure waii was noted for its fish and poi. When that the people of Honolulu live on fish, we sailed into Honolulu harbor I was that fishing is the most important busi- fully convinced that it certainly was a ness of the city, and that all, or nearly all, land of fish—or, at least, a land of fisher- of the citizens are engaged in the trade. men. I have yet to be initiated into the On our way up the harbor, as we mysteries of poi. passed the various piers to the one at

157 158 THE MID-PACIFIC which we docked, I noticed that there ing. Hundreds of men, women and chil- were infants, children, boys and girls in dren, carrying fishing tackle, bait, pack- their teens, young men and women, mid- ages of lunch, pails foi fish and lanterns, dle-aged people, as well as old, ancient came streaming down every street lead- and antiquated people—both sexes of a ing to the water. Some came in auto- dozen different nationalities—all indus- mobiles with poles tied on the sides, triously engaged in plying the imple- parties of ten and fifteen drove up in ments of their vocation—the pole, hook buses, hundreds came on bicycles. In and line. The profusion of bamboo poles the processions were women pushing gave to the harbor the appearance of a perambulators loaded with infants. In brush fence having been built along the many nooks and corners babies and small water front, with the natives peeping out children were sleeping on mats and through the openings to see the steamer blankets while "papa catch 'em with a come in. Not only were all of the docks hook." crowded with fisher folk, but every The day force is a very large one but barge, derrick and lighter teemed with the night shift outnumbers it five to one. humanity and bamboo poles. If. Izaak I learned that the fish bite better at night Walton could have gazed upon such a than during the day. scene he surely would have added at About 10 o'clock, when I left that sec- least two more volumes to his Complete tion of the city, the waterfront looked as Angler. if some nocturnal celebration were at its The Japanese Sampans height. Lanterns were bobbing about everywhere like so many fireflies. Now In addition to all of these "shore" fish- and then portions of sweet Hawaiian ermen, there was a fleet of small boats, which a fellow passenger informed me melodies came floating along on the soft, night zephyrs, and, at times, could be was a flotilla of Japanese sampans used for deep-sea fishing. Here was further heard the strum of the musical instru- ment called the which is nothing evidence that we were arriving at a land ukulele, of fish and fishermen. more than a guitar picked before it is ripe. "The City of Fish and Autos" The Next Day Coming from the pier out to the street I was much surprised to find that so • I have since learned that I was greatly many of the "fishermen" had left their mistaken when I jumped to the conclu- regular work and come to meet the sion that all the citizens of Honolulu steamer. They had with them more were fishermen by trade. This merely automobiles than I thought there were goes to show how one can be misled and west of San Francisco. Honolulu might deceived by circumstantial evidence. In- properly be called "The City of Fish and formation gathered since writing the Autos." I am sure that as soon as the above has disillusioned me. incoming passengers and their friends It seems that some time ago an un- had been taken to their destinations in usually large number of fish came into the city, all of the temporary chauffeurs the harbor of Honolulu and the popula- immediately returned to their fish poles. tion went, en masse, down to the piers to At seven in the evening I strolled down bid them "Welcome to our City." These along the waterfront, and, much to my fish came in in droves and swarms until. astonishment, found that the fishermen the bay was fairly alive with them. There work in two shifts—one day and one was hardly swimming room. It was night. The night shift was just arriv- sort of a geographical sardine box. THE MID-PACIFIC 159

About the only thing a poor, little fish nor to dine. They come in because there could do to keep from being crushed, or is going to be a death in the royal family ; "finned" to death, by the mob, was to or, reverse it if you wish—there is going bite on some friendly hook and be to be a death in the royal family because yanked out of the jaws of death into some they come in. It has always been so, hospitable frying pan. They were so and it always will be so. This is definite eager to get away from the maddening and positive, authentic and substantiated. throng that they would bite on anything All of the old-time Hawaiians say so; from a sirloin steak to a shoe button. and what better authority could one ask? The Hawaiian name for these fish is It may be that only the royal brown alalaua. They are of a bright red color leghorn hen will cross the Stygian ferry, and average about five inches in length. but that will appease the fish and the They will weigh up to the old-fashioned people. There is not: an instance on liquid measure : "A pint's a pound the record when some member of the im- world around." perial circle did not "cash in" after these The Honolulu newspapers state that calamity-croaking alalaua had waved it is six or seven years since there has their magic tails all about the harbor, as been such a run of alalaua in this port. well as causing their necromantic fumes It seems strange why they should come to arise from every frying pan in town. at all, or why they should not come more Rumor has it that at one time, after the frequently and more regularly. At the "hand writing" had been seen in the bay, hotel I was fortunate in meeting and the royal canary shuffled off, and, at getting the opinion of a naturalist who another time, the imperatorial cat gave has devoted many years to the study of up her nine lives in answer to the "call ichthyology, and he explained that they, of the alalaua." It is also reported that no doubt, came in to spawn, or that, pos- once a king died after these wisdom- sibly, they had been driven by a school of weighted fish had sounded the death larger fish that prey upon them, or, per- knell. But he was an ungrateful king haps, they had found good feeding as he waited several years after the fish ground in this harbor, and that they came before fulfilling his obligations to would remain until they had exhausted his people and his fish. the supply of whatever food attracted How these alalaua get this inside in- them. formation, and why they come into port Any, or all, of these theories seemed with it, is more than I can explain. They logical to me, and I was entirely satisfied just do it, that's all. The harbor could that I had found a correct solution of fill up with other kinds of fish so that the phenomenon, but my beliefs and su- one could walk across the bay on their perstitions were soon shattered when I backs and it would mean nothing. Noth- questioned some of those who were act- ing would happen, unless it might be ually catching the fish. They threw such that ships would be forced to blast their a searchlight of knowledge on the sub- way in and out of port. But when the ject that the theories of my scientific alalaua comes with his melancholy tid- friend, and my own reasonings, were ings something must surely happen. He nothing more than glow worms in the knows because he is an educated fish. full ray of the noon-day sun. They came in about September 1 and The Why and Wheref or left on about the 12th, and now Hono- These alalaua do not come in this har- lulu stands on tip-toes, waiting, waiting, bor to spawn, nor to escape being eaten, waiting. 160 THE MID-PACIFIC A primitive South Sea Island house.

Houses of the Union Group and Micronesia By WILLIAM T. BRIGHAM A. M., Sc. D. Director of Bishop Museum

I OT far from Samoa, and be- wards in the Pandora in 1791, and Fa- ' tween that group and the equa- kaafo by Captain Hudson of the U. S. i tor lies the Union. Group, con- Exploring Expedition in 1840. sisting of the three low islands Atafu The houses on these islands at the or Oatafu (Duke of York Id.), Nuku- time of the visit of the Exploring Ex- nono (Duke of Clarence Id.), and Fa- pedition are not only typical of the stick kaafo (Bowditch). Byron, who discov- and thatch method of building, but very ered Atafu in 1765, reported it unin- beautiful examples of that architecture habited. There are some sixty-three now almost extinct in this region. islets covered with coconut and pandanus "The most remarkable constructions trees, and the atoll is now under British of the islanders near the village, were protectorate as are the two others. Nu- three small quays, five or six feet wide kunono was discovered by Captain Ed- and two feet above the water, forming

161 162 THE MID-PACIFIC slips about ten feet wide : at the end of being of rude workmanship, were clum- each of these was a small house, built sy and ill-shaped. In all probability of pandanus leaves, partly on poles in these were the reclining stools before the water. * * * * They have no water spoken of. The natives termed them on the island, and the supply is wholly "the seats of their gods." Their gods, obtained from excavations made in the or idols, tui tokelau, were placed on body of the coconut trees, two feet from the outside, near-by. The largest of the ground. These trees are all dug out these was fourteen feet high and eigh- on the lea side, towards which all are teen inches in diameter. This was cov- more or less inclined. These excava- ered or enveloped in mats and over all tions are capable of containing five or a narrow one was passed, shawl-fashion, six gallons of water." and tied in a knot in front, with the ends The boats of the expedition were not hanging down. The smaller idol was of able to land on Nukunono and sailed stone and four feet high, but only par- southward, discovering Fakaafo. On tially covered with mats. About ten feet this new island they found dwellings in front of the idols was one of the much like those they had seen on Atafu, hewn tables, which was hollowed out ; but better built. it was four feet long by three broad, "The most remarkable building was and the same in height. tui toke- that which they said was their Gilbert Islands lau (house of their god). This stood in the centre, and was of an oblong Turning northwestward from the shape, fifty by thirty-five feet, and about Union Group, we soon enter the region twenty feet in height. The roof was of Micronesia—the little islands, a vast supported in the centre by three posts, archipelago stretching many degrees two feet in diameter, while under the east and west along the equatorial belt place on which the rafters rested, were and in a way connecting the southeastern many short and small posts : all were Polynesians with the Asiatic races of very roughly hewn, and placed only a the Marinas and Pelew Islands on the feet feet asunder. The roof was con- north of the equator, and through the cave and extended beyond the posts at spurs of the Seniavine and Mortlock the eaves ; the thatching was tied to- groups, with the Papuans of the Bis- gether, which, hanging down, resembled marck Archipelago and the New Hebri- at a distance the curtain of a tent or des on the south. The islands of the marquee. All the sides were open, ex- Gilbert and Marshall groups are low cepting a small railing, about fifteen coral atolls — small islands grouped inches high, around the foundation, around a shallow lagoon, generally which allowed the free passage of the roughly circular, sometimes mere arcs air through. * * * * " of the circle remaining. The climate is The edifice contained but little furni- equatorial throughout, and that and the ture. Around the eaves a row of vegetation and lay of the ground would mother-of-pearl shells was suspended, conduce to uniformity in housebuilding. giving the appearance of a scolloped "They reached the beach near what curtain. The whole was covered with the natives termed their `Illariapu,' or mats. In the centre, around the largest council house, one of the large buildings pillar, a great number of enormous that had been before spoken of as visible benches, or tables were piled, which from the sea. This stands in front of were carved out of the solid wood, and the town, on a broad wharf made of THE MID -PACIFIC 163 coral stones built out from the beach; ing, while the upper entirely for storing its dimensions as measured were one their goods and chattels. The wall-plates hundred and twenty feet long, by forty- rest on four beams of coconut wood, five feet wide, and to the ridge-pole which are supported by four posts at forty feet high. The ridge-pole was each corner. These posts are round supported by five large posts whence and perfectly smooth so that the rats the roof sloped on each side and reached cannot climb them. The rafters and within three feet of the ground; the cross-pieces are mere poles only an inch rafters descended to a wall-plate which or two thick; the thatch is of pandanus- rested on large blocks of white coral, leaf doubled over a slender stick and and were also supported by smaller tied down with sennit." posts ten feet in length, near the sides. Here we have the first attic in the At the ends the roof was perpendicular Pacific architecture ; indeed the first for eight or ten feet, and then they suggestion of a second story. The up- sloped off in the same manner as the per beams used as shelves for various sides. The roof was thatched with pan- articles, in the Samoan, Tongan and danus leaves. Marquesan houses have now developed "The Mariapu was a very large build- into a garret. From the island of Mai- ing, and in the interior its architecture ana we have in the Bishop Museum a showed to much advantage : the ridge- carefully constructed model of a house pole with the rafters, were painted in given by the Rev. William Lono, for- black bands, with points, and ornament- merly a missionary of the Hawaiian ed with a vast number of ovule shells. Board to the Gilbert Islands. Chests made of the thin laths of the In this we have a still further de- pandanus, somewhat resembling cane, velopment. Like the houses of Tape- were arranged around, about twenty teuea it is supported on four smooth feet apart: these contained only a few corner posts, probably for the same rea- mats and coconuts, things of no value, son,' but the first floor contains a room and are supposed to be for the accommo- of ample height, with an opening in the dation of visitors or used at their feasts. floor of such extent as to place the re- The floor was in places covered with maining floor in the class of .gallery. mats of the coconut leaves." The entrance is through this aperture by "There was nothing remarkable in its a rude ladder, which is removable, and exterior ; it was of oblong shape, and there is no opening on the sides of the about sixteen feet wide by twenty feet house on this story. The height of the long. The interior consisted of two first floor above the ground is quite stories, of which the lower one was not sufficient to keep pigs and other intrud- more than three feet high, under the ing animals out. The floor aperture ad- floor of the upper story. It was entered mits light, serves for ventilation, and by a square hole on one side. The apart- the easy removal of rubbish. Above ment above was rather a loft or garret, this is another gallery with a diminished which was high and contained apparently opening in the centre, the floor of the all the valuables and goods of the occu- attic store room. This is well ventilated pant. The floor was made of small pieces of pandanus boards laid on slen- at each gable, one, indeed being left der beams of coconut wood. * * * * open. There is a double ridge-pole as The lower apartment is used for sleep- in the Hawaiian house. 164 THE MID-PACIFIC

"See, Raba, see the people 'who sail out yonder?" When the Maori Went to War

By JOHN CHAPIN

N THE lives of no other primitive ever he had the chance, they at last people has warfare been so glorified wandered to the shores of Cook Strait, I as in the history of the Maori. To which separates the North and South the Maori war was everything. But tales Sea Islands. Nene, one of the chiefs, of his sublime courage and noble chiv- called Rauparaha's attention to the ship alry are literally incrustated with inci- of a trader which was passing through dents of loathsome beastiality and revolt- the strait. ing cruelty. Savage cunning that ap- "See Raha !" he said, "see the people proached the higher planes of strategy ; who are sailing out yonder? They are battle practises that placed them nearly a very good tribe of people. If you ob- on a level with their European conquer- tain possession of this district you will ors are intermingled, scarred and sullied become a great man, you will be able in the history of this race of warriors to trade for guns and powder." with stark cannibalism. Rauparaha seized avidly on this ad- When the white traders first came to vice. He took possession of the land and New Zealand carrying firearms with as his stock of guns increased, he them, they brought the tools of anarchy. dreamed dreams of conquest. He wanted The whole of New Zealand was disturbed to control both sides of the Strait and by these unaccountable agents of death as much of the land beyond to the south that gave one tribe overwhelming power as he could seize. over its neighbors. The tribes closest Gathering a band of chosen warriors, to the trading stations were the ones to he set out and overran the northern sec- force their neighbors back. These gave tion of the south island, which was oc- way helplessly. Their stone and wooden cupied by the Rangitane tribe. Where- weapons could not prevail against pow- ever these conquerors went, they left der and ball. their trails of devastation behind them. Te Rauparaha and the Ngatitoa tribe The inhabitants were captured, killed and of which he was head felt this inexorable devoured. What few of them were per- pressure. Killing in the abandoned fash- mitted to survive were enslaved. Rau- ion that characterized the Maori, when- paraha had as many as a thousand of

165 166 THE MID-PACIFIC these wretched creatures at one time ing until such a time as he chose to take, making flax, which in turn he traded to it, kept the insult green in his memory. the whites in exchange for guns and Rerewaka's pa or fortress was situated powder. on the Kaikoura peninsula on the north- About this time, a runaway slave who east coast of the south island, and when had escaped from the Ngaitahu tribe re- Rauparaha did make a move, he found ported to Rauparaha that Rerewaka, one the pa wide open and the people waiting of the great chiefs of the Ngaitahus had on the beach with open arms. There was declared that if Rauparaha ever set foot a mistake. They had been expecting a in his country he would rip up his visit from relatives and had taken these belly with a shark's tooth. The slave canoes coming in from the sea to be also filled Rau- their visitors. It paraha's ear s was not until the with tales of the war party had vast stores of landed that they wealth that the realized their er- Ngaitahu tribe ror. Their fate w a s possessed was the usual of. one. Those who Greenstone, or were not killed nephrite, the and eaten on the hard, jade - like spot were taken stone from t o Rauparaha's which is made stronghold, i n- the mere or war cluding Rerewa- clubs and the or- ka himself and naments that the fattened for a Maori holds in mor e leisurely such high esti- banquet. mation, is found The next year only on the west found Raupara- coast ofrthe ha back at Kai- south island. "Why do you resist my wishess?" koura again. A The Ngaitahus, who were by far chief who had insulted a relative of the most powerful and numerous people Rauparaha's had fled to Kaikoura seek- on that island, had been in the habit of ing protection. It proved a poor refuge. sending raiding parties over to the west Not only did the invader once more des- coast on looting expeditions. The natives troy the village, but pressed the pursuit of the west coast were very skillful at as far as Omihi, killing or enslaving all fashioning these weapons and ornaments. of its inhabitants. Large quantities of them were sure to This brought the war party within be the reward of the party that succeeded reach of Kaiapohia, which was the in getting over the mountains and down richest of the Ngaitahu pas. Futher- on the unfortunates before the alarm more it was thought impregnable. The was given and they had time to conceal people rolled in wealth or what passed themselves and their treasures. Rerewaka's insult rankled long in Rau- for wealth among the Maori. They paraha's breast. Knowledge of the were traders and merchants in embryo amount of treasure that was simply wait- and it was to them that the villages round THE MID-PACIFIC 167 about resorted for supplies and trinkets. adopt this strange course of peaceably The idea of pressing on to Kaiapohia visiting their prospective victims and was suggested by Pehi, uncle of Rau- looking them over, as a farmer would paraha and the second in command of look over a horse that he thought of the expedition. Rauparaha demurred purchasing., But the Maori was punctil- at first, but permitted himself to be over- ious in matters of warfare. He fought ruled. One hundred men, all chiefs, made for the love of the combat as well as from up the party, the warriors being left be- necessity. Rauparaha had taken ven- hind at Omihi to guard the canoes and geance for the insult Rerewaka had of- prisoners. fered him and had wiped him off the Kaiapohia which was situated near earth. It would have been a violation the present city of Kaiapoi, fourteen of Maori etiquette for him to have car- miles north of Christchurch, was built ried the matter further. It was now in on a promontory that extended into a order for the relatives of the slain to swamp. It covered an area of ten acres strike the next blow, if the carnage was and there was but one side from which to be continued. it could be attacked. This was along a There is a difference of opinion as to strip of solid earth that led out to it and what occurred after the visitors entered along the width of this there was a double the pa. According to Rauparaha's fol- line of heavy palisading and a deep ditch lowers, Pehi. his most trusted lieutenant, with two outworks, from which an at- in order to carry out the' part they were tacking party would suffer a flanking playing, that of traders, fell into a dis- fire. pute with a Kaiapohia chief who refused When the war party reached here, to part with a choice greenstone weapon. they pretended to be friendly. They gave In anger he cried, "Why do you, with a as an excuse for this visit 'the fact that crooked tatoo, resist my wishes—you they desired to barter firearms, which whose nose will be shortly cut off with the Ngaitahus had not, for greenstone. a hatchet ?" This insolent threat from The people in the pa were aware of what one of the leaders of the visiting party had transpired at Kaikoura and Omihi confirmed what the Kaiapohia folk had among their kinsfolk, but they did not suspected, that they were destined to be dare provoke the powerful Rauparaha attacked. They determined to slay all and so feigned cordiality.' While plenti- the chiefs on whom they could lay hands, fully supplied with Maori weapons, they •in order to forestall the attack. had few muskets, being away from the According to the story related by the trading centers. These in the hands of Kaiapohia people, they were anxious tc their enemies put them at a hopeless dis- make peace, feeling that they were at a advantage. disadvantage, and sent one of their Rauparaha himself refused to enter trusted chiefs, Tamaiharanui, to enter the pa. He took little stock in these dem- into negotiations. These went on satis- onstrations of friendship. He had too factorily,. but meanwhile Rauparaha and much to answer for to the Ngaitahus to those with him who had not entered the place himself in their power. pa, had gone to another pa nearby named CeremOnies, forms and customs, inex- Tuahiwi and disinterred the body of plicable to us, hedge in all savages like Tamaiharanui's grandmother from her armor. To us it would seem strange that grave. In spite of the fact that it was these invaders, flushed with victories and decomposed, they had eaten it. This all fed, up with their enemies, should dreadful insult was resented by the 168 THE MID-PACIFIC

IPIIIIIIII I 111111'1111 ,11111'11

Those within the pa were completely cowed. chief. In spite of the timid remonstran- Suddenly, there were musket shots. ces of the head men of the tribe, he in- Someone in the kumaca patches sisted that the word go forth for the screamed. Then the scattered shots be- killing. came a volley, there were shouts of alarm One of the visiting chiefs was slain as and agony from the workers without. he entered a house, and this was the sig- and the people inside knew that Raupa- nal for the slaughter. Twenty chiefs raha had come back. There was barely were in the Kaiapolia pa at this time . time to shut the gates and man the de- The gates were closed and they were cut fenses before their enemy was upon down just where they stood, put in the them. Five thousand strong, they surged ovens and eaten. Rauparaha himself up to the very gates of the pa and were managed to escape and found his way repulsed. Again they. advanced to the back to the main body of his army. He attack, but those within were strongly bade them murder all the slaves they had entrenched and protected in shelters, and taken and then they launched their drove them back once more. They were canoes and returned to their stronghold better supplied with firearms now than at Kapiti. they had been the time of the first visit. Still another year rolled around. To Rauparaha now settled down to a seige. the people of Kaiapohia the massacre of Meanwhile, some of the cultivators Rauparaha's chiefs had become but an who had succeeded in escaping the mas- unpleasant memory. The lesson was sacre sped to the seashore to inform doubtless drastic enough to have set- their warriors of the surprise. This tled the invader for all time. Their lives party, reinforced by those whom they were tranquil. They had their kumara had come to see off, and gathering men patches to attend to, their flax to gather from the villages along the way, hurried and prepare, and there was the usual back to Kaiapohia. Being familiar with amount of entertaining. the swamps, they took the trails that led The great body of the Kaiapohia war- through these, the better to conceal their riors had gone to the seashore. to speed movements from the enemy. When they a visiting chief from Otago. The peo- came to the river, they made rafts of the ple were working their cultivations out- dried flax leaves and floated across. Finding the enemy encamped on the side the pa and there were but a few solid ground before the pa, they took to warriors, women and children within the swamps again. When they approached the pa palisades. the pa from the swamp side, they were THE MID -PACIFIC 169 fired on by the defenders, but, fortu- in lines meanwhile, around the fire. The nately, before any damage was done, scene was made doubly impressive by they were recognized and admitted by the religious atmosphere. The priests, the handful of their comrades who were chanting sacred chants, went through maintaining the seige. their ceremonies, and the warriors in This accession of strength did little chorus responded. At the conclusion of good to those within the walls. Again the rite, the priest tore a portion from and again, they opened the doors of their the heart and, holding it high above his fortress and rushed out in a desperate head, he advanced closer and threw it mass at the awaiting foe, but these vet- over the palisade into the pa, that the erans, who had been fighting for years power of the attacking party might against all sorts of odds, had little diffi- overcome the resistance of the beseiged. culty in hurling them back as fast as Those in the pa at this time were also they came, shooting them down and chanting their sacred incantations. They clubbing them hack to the very gates of put on their war belts and in chorus the fortress. Then the dead were col- chanted their war songs, working them- lected from the approach to the pa, their selves into the frenzy that always accom- weapons and ornaments were taken from panied these ceremonies. Some of the them and, on that day, the invaders did warriors repeated words of the chant, not lack for which was one food. The De- cause of confu- beseiged — sion and uneasi- grew dispirited — '1 ness, since it was and abandoned considered an ill these tactics and omen. Then settled down to when the ranks defensive opera- of these war- tions, as they riors spread out grew to realize and they formed the futility of into rows, op- their methods. posing each oth- It was impossi- er in mimic com- ble for them to bat, some of these men held prevail against their weapons the superior wrongly, which force and equip- was the occasion ment of the for further un- enemy. easiness. When All the cun- At that moment the wind shifted and blew steong from these ceremonies ning, all t h e the south. were about to cruelty of the Maori was exerted end and the learned of the warriors re- in the long-drawn-out contest. Dur- peated their genealogies aloud to the ing one of the skirmishes, an attacking warriors, these men, too, made errors. warrior named Uru was slain. His body This occasion was even more serious was carried back to their camp and laid than the others to these childlike, super- out in state. His heart was cut out by stitious people. Those within the pa the priests who accompanied Rauparaha were completely cowed and submissive to and roasted, the entire army drawn up to the fate that they could see approach- 170 THE MID- PACIFIC ing them. Kaiapahia was well supplied At that moment the wind shifted and with provisions. blew strong from the south. The flames On the other hand, the beseigers were twisted rapidly and as eagerly licked at often hungry. They had to forage for the scorched timbers, driving the de- supplies and, to savages who lacked or- fenders out of the rifle pits from which ganization, it was a difficult undertaking. they had been picking off the implacable There was discontent and unrest in their enemy. The weathered timbers burned ranks. A council of war was held at this fast and soon the framework, by now juncture. Something must be done at little more than a charred skeleton, began once. It was decided that they must sap to crumble. The warriors without, quick up to the outworks of the pa, and work to seize their chance, scattered aside the was started on these saps at once. Two still blazing bundles of brush that inter- zig-zag trenches were dug that success- fered with their advance and poured fully shielded the men who were em- through the smoke and glowing coals ployed in approaching the fort. Euro- that littered the gap in the outer walls pean military men who visited the site of the pa. of this pa long afterward said that these Very little defense was then offered by lines of sap were as well carried out as those within. They were resigned to the if they had been done by the most ex- turn of fate. Thy fled into the swamps, perienced engineers. throwing their choicest greenstone pos- The trenches were carried as close to sessions as far into the muck as they the palisades as they could safely go, could hurl them, and then plunged in and then the warriors were dispatched to themselves, trusting to luck to enable cut scrub of mauka bushes and ferns. them to make dry land and safety. Par- These faggots, tied in bundles, were car- ties of the enemy, told off for the pur- ried through the trenches and piled pose, were waiting on the banks to crack against the timbers of the outer works of the skulls of the fugitives as they the pa. For two weeks the cutting and emerged. At last a halt was called. The piling continued and then the beseigers victorious warriors had slaim every hu- sat back and rested, waiting for the man being within reach of their mur- wind to come that would blow toward derous weapons and, having gathered all the fort, so that they could sef it afire. the loot within their power, settled down The priests of the Ngaitahu all this to the fruits of their exhausting toil. The time were performing incantations and bodies of the victims of the day's work ceremonies to keep the winds off, and were hunted out, dragged into convenient for two weeks their prayers were fa- piles and consigned to the heated ovens. vored. One calm day when there was a "That was indeed the warrior's food, northern breeze, the people within the pa the flesh of man. There was no other decided to set fire to this brush and burn meat to equal it. In appearance it ,vas it away, as the wind was blowing safely like pork when cooked, and it tasted like from them and they could thus get rid pork, only sweeter." Such is the testi- of the menace. mony of a converted man-eater. The vine-covered Bishop Museum, Honolulu.

The Bishop Museum

By R. E. LAMBERT.

IVERY • land has its museums of name of the museum is "The Bernice one kind or another. Practical- Pauahi Bishop Museum of Polynesian F ly every section of every large Ethnology and Natural History." H. country has special museums of its Rider Haggard, that prolific writer of own. Perhaps the greatest group of strange thrilling fiction ( to mention the museums of the world would clas- only one of hundreds of similar ex- sify under the head of natural history pressions) once declared that this mu- museums. Next in importance to these seum was the finest and most unique are art museums, ethnological museums, museum in the world covering a spe- and museums for the preservation of cial field. historical relics. No native Hawaiian, nor any ka- The Bishop Museum at Honolulu is maaina among the other resident races, a combination of all four of these kinds needs to be told about Bernice Pauahi of museums, although its natural his- Bishop. But for the benefit of distant tory and ethnological exhibits form by or casual readers, it may be repeated far the greatest part. In fact, the legal here. that Bernice Pauahi was a Ha-

171 172 THE MID- PACIFIC waiian princess deriving her royalty the early Hawaiians, and whose nat- from Kalaniopuu, the moi or king of ural abilities best fitted him for the the island of Hawaii at the time of work of developing the museum to an Captain Cook's visit to the islands, enviable place among the museums of when the several islands were still the world. That man was Wm. T. under separate autonomous sovereign- Brigham of Boston, Mass. ties. Kalaniopuu was Princess Pauahi's No account of the Bishop Museum great grandfather. The princess was is complete without some reference to also descended from Kamehameha the Mr. Brigham. He was graduated from Great (Kam. I), who first consolidated Harvard in 1862, studied law in his all the Hawaiian islands under one father's office, and was later admitted single rule—his own. The princess to practice at the Boston bar. In 1864, married Charles R. Bishop, who be- at the age of 23, he was commissioned came one of the wealthiest and most by Asa Gray, the eminent American influential men in the islands naturalist, to spend some time in the Mrs. Bishop died in 1884. Her will Hawaiian Islands during his trip around provided that the Kamehameha Schools the world, botanizing with Horace be founded and her whole estate was Mann. The following year, in order bequeathed for this purpose. Among to continue his work in Hawaii, he her effects were splendid collections of joined Professor Alexander on the fac- curios and relics, kapas, mats, cala- ulty of Oahu College, finishing the bashes, feather work, etc., bequeathed year, after which he returned to Bos- to her as the last of the Kamehamehas. ton. Mrs. Bishop realized that these would In 1880 Professor Brigham made an- all be of increasing interest to future other visit to the islands, specializing generations of residents and visitors on the volcanic origin and formation to the islands. This remarkable col- of the group. During this visit he re- lection was put into a school "cabinet" newed acquaintances and continued his for the use of teachers and students studies in every branch of natural his- of the Kamehameha Schools. tory of Hawaii. As a result of these Five years later, in 1889, Mr. Bishop. researches, his first volume on the urged by Hon. Sanford B. Dole and volcanoes of Hawaii was published Prof. Wm. T. Brigham, founded the shortly afterwards. In 1888 Mr. Brig- museum in memory of his wife, the ham again returned to Hawaii, this late princess, converting the school time under commission from Mr. "cabinet" to this purpose. Mr. Bishop Bishop to gather material for a thor- founded a perpetual trust to provide ough history of Hawaii. In 1890 Mr. a permanent endowment for the mu- Brigham discontinued his historical seum. To this trust he transferred title studies to take up the museum work. in the valley of Waipio on the island Under his direction it has developed to of Hawaii The annual income of this its present magnificent proportions. endowment was at first about $4000 a In 1898 Mr. Brigham's title was year. Since then the annual income changed from curator to director. The has increased manyfold. staff which at first consisted of him- Mr. Bishop, with admirable judg- self only has gradually been increased ment and foresight, selected to be the until today it numbers about a score curator of the new museum, the one of curators, heads of departments, and man whose experience, learning, wide assistants. In 1905, for his scientific travels, friendship for Mrs. Bishop and work as head of the Bishop Museum THE MID-PACIFIC 173 and for his invaluable contributions to specimens and collections relating to scientific knowledge of the islands in Hawaii or Polynesia found in other the museum publications, he was given museums throughout the world, have the honorary degree of Doctor of been described and often illustrated in Science by Columbia University. these publications. This enables the No complete catalogue of the speci- student or reader to obtain a thorough mens on exhibition and stored for study knowledge of every subject of interest. purposes, is feasible, although several From the very first, Dr. Brigham's hand-books have been written to guide conception of the Museum was far visitors. In 1892 there were some six more comprehensive than that of its thousand specimens in the exhibition founder, or of the trustees who direct cases. Today there are many times its financial affairs. The history of the that number. museum is replete with efforts made Perhaps the best index to the con- by the director to convince these trus- tents of the Museum is found in the tees—hard-headed business and profes- publications for which the Bishop Mus- sional men of Honolulu—of the wisdom eum is famous around the world. In- of new improvements and further en- deed, it is no exaggeration to say that largements. Beginning in 1889 with these publications, embracing two series the first stone building comprising an —one of "Memoirs" in quarto; and the entrance hall and three large rooms, other of "Occasional Papers" in oc- one of which was used as a picture tavo, all written by Dr. Brigham or gallery, in 1894, the first wing was under his direction—have set the, stand- erected known as Polynesian Hall to ard for subsequent publications of other house the splendid acquisitions from museums throughout the world. Many Southern and Western Pacific regions. times, testimony as to this has been By comparison with these additional volunteered by eminent scientists, writ- specimens, things Hawaiian can be ers, and museum men. The printery much better studied. A Curator of and composing-room which together Polynesian Ethnology was employed in form the Museum Press, are models of the person of Mr. John F. G. Stokes their kind and elicit enthusiastic praise who has specialized in this branch of from all who visit it or receive its the museum's work. Mr. Stokes is a publications. son of the former Hawaiian Consul at Having ever in mind the insecurity Newcastle, Australia. of human institutions, the venerable In the basement of this new building, Dr. Brigham early conceived the idea a herbarium was later established with of profusely illustrating his publications a botanist in charge. Mr. Charles N. so that a picture of practically every Forbes joined the Museum Staff as head important specimen in the museum's of the Department of Botany to relieve priceless, irreplaceable, and undupli- Dr. Brigham who found the various de- cated collections can be found in some mands on his time and attention from one or other of these' volumes.' These other museum requirements too great publications have penetrated to every to devote any longer the proper indi- land ; practically every museum and vidual attention needed for the herbar- scientific society of importance having ium and botanical department. a complete set, besides numerous sets In 1899, a second wing was com- that have been sold at cost to private pleted, known as Hawaiian Hall, in individuals. As a result of the Direct- which for the first time the large col- or's later travels, all the important lections of strictly Hawaiian exhibits 174 THE MID-PACIFIC could be satisfactorily displayed. Again ers. It enables the heads of the several in 1910 another building was erected, departments to keep abreast of the lat- known as the Laboratory. This build- est and most advanced developments in ing contains the offices and work-rooms their respective sciences and fields of en- of the staff-members and their depart-. deavor. Mr. L. G. Blackman, founder ments, and the Library. and present head of the Honolulu Mili- According to its director, the museum tary Academy, was at one time librarian is still far from being a complete sci- of the museum. entific whole. This defect, however, is Though at first opposed to the sev- not at all noticeable to even the most eral proposed extensions of his original learned visitors at the museum. But idea of a modest yet fitting memorial the director, from his profound studies to his late wife, Mr. Bishop in his later of ethnology and natural history of the years, as shown by his letters, took islands of the Pacific, insists that a keen pride in the growing world-wide large hall similar to Polynesian Hall importance of the institution which his is needed for a proper display of Me- trust-endowments were making possible lanesian specimens. The origin, pre- under the able direction of Dr. Brigham. historic setting, and early history of Some twenty years ago Mr. Bishop the Hawaiians and Polynesians are so was an enthusiastic supporter of a inseparably inter-related with the islands scheme proposed by the museum direct- and peoples of Melanesia and Micron- or to make Hawaii the scientific center esia, that the thorough study of Ha- that its geographical position in the waii and Polynesia is impracticable Pacific entitled it to. It was planned without complete acquisitions from these to have immense botanical gardens for other groups for purposes of compari- the cultivation, study, and exhibition of son. And a model library building is the entire sub-tropical flora of Oceania, urgently needed. It is for this reason similar to the Buitenzorg Botanical Gar- that the Director is convinced that, dens of Java. A similar station was even under the trust restricted as it is designed for marine zoology in which, to Polynesia, these buildings can be of course, the Pacific is luxuriant. These legitimately erected. stations were to be second to none in Judging from the ratio of increase in the world for size, equipment, and re- the museum library, at least one of search. A ten-million-dollar, ten-year the two new buildings desired by the exploring expedition of the three thou- director will sooner or later have to be sand or more islands of the Pacific was built. The library at present occupies also planned in connection with these the space which should be devoted to two stations. Unfortunately circum- the taxidermy room. It is not generally stances arose to prevent the fulfillment known how invaluable is the collection of these plans. Some day, sooner or of books, manuscripts, pamphlets, plates, later, it is hoped that such an expedi- journals, reports, and other publications tion with Hawaii as its base, and such pertaining to natural science, exploring a botanical and such a marine zoological expeditions, ethnology, and history of station here in Hawaii, though perhaps things of the Pacific, owned by the less ambitions in size and scope, will museum. There are some twelve thou- materialize. sand volumes on the library shelves, From time to time, various desirable and these form an invaluable mine for purchases have been made, notable study by scientific and historical stu- among which are : The J. S. Emerson dents and scholars, writers and lectur- Collection ; the G. H. Dole Collection ; THE MID-PACIFIC 175 the Eric Craig Collection ; the Garrett judged by the average mind according Collection of 9000 shells ; the Brigham- to utilitarian standards. Aside from its Mann collection of plants ; and the col- paramount educational value, the Bishop lection owned by the American Board Museum at no cost whatever to the tax- of Commissioners for Foreign Missions payers is one of the chief tourist assets at Boston. in the whole territory. This is a popular In addition to these the labors of the and intelligent verdict reiterated again staff members have added numerous and again by the steady stream of visit- specimens in the course of years to the ors to its exhibition halls. As it has several departments. Besides, many been said that next to our sugar and valuable collections have been lent to pineapple crops, the tourist "crop" is Ha- the museum for study and exhibition. waii's chief asset, this is evidence Some items have been obtained through enough of the practical value of the in- exchange with other institutions abroad. stitution. As a means of high grade A few years ago a modeler and artist publicity for the islands, the museum, was added to the staff in the person of through its publications which encircle Mr. J. W. Thompson from the Academy the globe and through its enviable repu- of Natural Sciences and the Memorial tation abroad, shares first place only Hall at Philadelphia, and from the with the active volcano at Kilauea. Its Smithsonian Institution at Washington. great service in furnishing for all time Mr. Thompson has made hundreds Hof to come the scientific and philosophic casts of all sorts of natural history world with data pertaining to this little specimens, and painted them to resem- section of the earth's surface and to ble their original specimens so closely her inhabitants, thus adding yet other that few can distinguish between a cast necessary links to the vast chain which and a genuine specimen without hand- is to link the Hawaiians and all races ling them to judge by their weight. The in their present environment to the yet greatest number of these exquisitely unfathomed mysteries of the "descent colored casts are of the native fruits and (or ascent) of man," can be properly fishes. estimated only after sufficient decades In this matter-of-fact age all things, —perhaps centuries—have passed to en- even scientific, artistic, religious, and able our posterity to see the fruits of . professional, persons and activities are its labors in their true perspective. 176 THE MID-PACIFIC

Aside from the more active sports of baseball, football, tennis, and a score of others, one of the most enjoyable is motoring and picnicking out in the great recreation grounds of Southern California.

4p. Southern California for the Sportsman 10,

OUTHERN CALIFORNIA is highest standard of open play. The the Mecca of the lover of out- local high schools and a few of those S door sport. It matters not in outside of this city play the English what particular line he excels or finds game of Rugby, but it is doubtful the greatest delight—he will find them whether this style of football will sur- all. Probably no other portion of the vive the more aggressive American world is able to boast so extensive a game for more than another season. list of. sports, and practically all of Lawn tennis is, in reality, the major them may be played from January to sport of Southern California. In this December, with little or no interrup- part of the state there are forty-nine tion. organized clubs and, exclusive of gram- Baseball, the king. of American mar and high school students, there sports, has a year-round season. The are approximately 5200 players, both Pacific Coast League—the main pro- men and women. fessional organization—has a season The Pacific Coast doubles tourna- seven months in length, the longest ment, which decides the team to rep- in the world, with a schedule' of 215 resent the coast in the national cham- games. pionship, is played each July on the In semi-professional and amateur Virginia courts at • Long Beach. At baseball there are dozens of leagues Coronado a mid-winter tournament is which play winter and summer ball. held during the month of February, The Imperial Valley has two leagues while the Southern California Tennis which play through the winter months, Club stages from three to six tourna- while all the principal cities and towns ments each year. of Southern California have represen- A feature of Southern California tative teams which play local and inter- tennis is the big tourneys held on city games. Thanksgiving and during the Christ- Aside from the high school and col- mas holidays when the weather is ideal lege teams there are approximately 160 for play. amateur and semi-professional teams Local players who have won fame playing summer baseball, while during on the courts through the fact that the winter this number is increased to practice is possible here the year round nearly 350. In Los Angeles alone there are Thomas G. Bundy, national doubles are approximately seventy teams which champion with McLoughlin ; Miss play baseball the year round. Mary K. Browne, national woman In football the colleges and the ma- champion ; Miss Elizabeth Ryan, who jority of the high schools play the has made a triumphant tour of the Eu- American game as developed to its ropean courts, and Nat B. Browne and

177 178 THE MID-PACIFIC

Claude A. Wayne, national clay court Quail, dove and rabbits are to be had champions. within a short distance of the cities, Equestrian polo has done much to and geese, duck and snipe are plentiful bring Southern California before the along the coast and in the Imperial eyes of the sport loving world. There Valley. are five clubs which play through the Trout fishing, in season, is a favorite winter season.: Rivers,ide, Pasadena, sport with many Southern California Coronado, Santa Barbara and Midwick, sportsmen, while ocean fishing, whether all with their own fields and stables. from the pier, trolling from a boat with The eastern experts come to Southern a heavy line or with light tackle, is California for the winter and a regu- of the best. No more exciting sport is lar schedule of games is played. to be had than fishing for the big fish As in polo, local conditions are such with light tackle from a launch. that the easterner is given every oppor- In connection with both hunting and tunity to enjoy golf to the fullest ex- fishing the wonderful system of boule- tent. There are twelve golf and coun- vards surrounding Los Angeles is a try clubs, all equipped with first-class great aid to the sportsman in getting fairways and greens, the majority of to his favorite spot. They stretch out them having eighteen-hole courses. In to the north for thirty-five miles, to the addition to the clubs several of the re- east seventy-five, to the south 125 and sort hotels maintain courses throughout to the west 40 miles. the winter months. Approximately 4600 Hunting, fishing and camping trips men and women play golf over these are made easy through these boulevards courses. and it is a common sight to see road- Five yacht clubs govern the Southern sters and touring cars, loaded with California yachting season. The sea- camping paraphernalia and "grub," on son, which technically ends late in Oc- their way to the mountains or seashore tober, in reality extends through the on any Saturday afternoon or Sunday year and week-end sailing parties in morning. The motorcycle, too, with a the winter time are not unusual. tandem attachment more often than not, There is no limit or season to the is a part of this' week-end exodus from local ocean bathing, and moonlight the cities. swimming parties are common even late in the fall or early spring, while mid- Snow-shoeing, skiing and sleigh rid- winter bathing is fully as enjoyable as ing are sports enjoyed each winter in that during the summer. Surf-riding the mountains, but to no great extent on special surfboards, measuring from because of the lack of suitable country three to eight feet in length, is num- for their enjoyment, but parties often bered among the more favored aquatic make the trip to the tops of the neigh- sports and canoeing and rowing are to boring mountains during or after a snow- be had in the numerous lagoons along storm in order te- get back to the days the coast. Rough water swimming races of their youth in the East and to have a in the open sea are staged each summer good snowball fight. by the local swimming association. Among the sports not so widely pa- The follower of Nimrod may have tronized, but which flourish and have his choice of big game hunting in the their devotees nevertheless, are women's mountains and foothills back from the field hockey, croquet, archery, lawn coast, or he may journey to Catalina bowls, soccer football, outdoor play- Island for a try at the wary wild goat. ground baseball, basketball, quoits, THE MID-PACIFIC 179 rogue, cricket, handball, lacrosse and hik- the week-end to the mountains, making ing. the trip to the mountain trail sometimes Aeroplanes 'of various types are a on foot and sometimes on trolley cars. common sight in the sky and from San The trips in the summer are especially Diego to Los Angeles is one of their fa- enjoyable and "camera hunting" is be- vorite lanes of travel. The whirr of the coming more and more a major sport. multi-cylindered motor no longer attracts In the winter the trips usually are the attention it did a few years ago. made because of the snow and the won- Horseback riding in the parks and derful scenery along the mountain trails. along the mountain trails is possible the The sun may be shining brightly in the year round with comfort, and a number valley and yet within the space of an of riding clubs flourish here in Los An- hour or two the hiker may be in the geles and in other Southern California midst of a driving snowstorm where a cities. big roughneck sweater and an overcoat, Hiking clubs make regular trips over too, are the things not to be despised.

A street in Pasadena. 180 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Korean's time is mostly taken up with agriculture and stock raising. Here is a Korean farmer peddling his produce—chickens in this instance. A Korean retail store, Seoul.

About the "Hermit Kingdom WITH A CAMERA By RAY JEROME BAKER

Before going into further detail re- hundred miles in length, and has an aver- garding the customs and habits of the age width of about a hundred and thirty- Korean people, it might be profitable to five. Korea is distinctly mountainous. It refresh our memory on the subject of has no plains worthy of the name. In the geography. The Korean peninsula ex- North there are several great mountain tends southward from Manchuria, being groups with definite centres. From these separated therefrom by the Yalu river. groups, a lofty range runs southward, The Japan sea, with a scarcely perceptible dividing the country into two unequal tide. washes the eastern shore, while the parts. From this central range there are Yellow sea, on the west, surges in over many lateral spurs which break the coun- the mud banked coast with a tide of from try up into a chaos of precipitous hills twenty to thirty-five feet. Korea is six and steep-sided valleys, in most of which

181 182 THE MID-PACIFIC

are swift perennial streams. One of these seats were placed crosswise, which made lateral spurs terminates in that great se- it possible to face the direction in which ries of granite uplifts along the eastern the train moved. In the locomotives I shore, known as the Hongo, or Diamond recognized familiar designs, and closer Mountains. inspection revealed the fact that they The rivers of Korea are for the most were built in America. The arrival of part shallow and rocky, and of but little the lunch hour drew to my attention the use for transportation. A notable excep- dining car which was included in the tion to this is the Han River, which rises train. It was Well equipped and served in an eastern province, about thirty miles meals in European style. The Fusan- from the eastern coast, cuts Korea nearly Seoul section of the railroad was com- in two, reaches the China sea on the pleted in 1901, but the northern section west at Chemulpo, and, in spite of its was not completed until about the time many rapids, forms a valuable waterway of the Russian-Japanese war, in 1905. for commerce for nearly one hundred and A Unique Landscape fifty miles. In climate, Southern Korea is milder I cannot say definitely and positively than might be expected for countries lying that the landscape one may see from the in its latitude. No ice obstructs its har- train between Fusan and Seoul deserves bors in winter, indeed, the temperature favorable comment. It is unique. It is rarely falls below the freezing point. In different from what I had been accus- the north the bitter cold and sweeping tomed to see. In its entire aspect, I can- winds which characterize the Siberian not recall a similarly appearing land- .winters prevail. The summers are often scape in America. As I looked out over hot, and rainfall during June and July is the barren hillsides, I could not escape heavy. Heavy rainfall at this time does the conclusion that generations of misrule away with the necessity of artificial irri- under native sovereigns had left its gation for the rice fields. At the time of stamp even there. my visit, which was in July, they were not An Interesting Delay experiencing the usual summer rains, and The major portion of another day was there were prospects of an unusually spent in traveling by rail from Seoul to short rice crop in consequence. Often Gensan. From Gensan I was to take a during my tramps about Fusan and Seoul steamer and go down the coast to the I had . occasion to reflect over the more Outer Kongo, or Diamond Mountain. I equitable climate of Hawaii, but I can- had supposed my train would make con- not say that I ever really suffered from nections, but on arriving at Gensan, I the heat in Korea. discovered that the boat did not depart South Manchurian Railway until the next day at noon. As usual, I One July morning, my sightseeing over secured accommodations at an inn, re- in Fusan, I decided to take the train for questing the proprietor to call me in time Seoul. A courteous attendant from my for the boat on the morrow. At nine in inn placed my luggage aboard the train. the morning the urgency of the man who At first I did not realize what gave me came to call me made me think I was the familiar, homelike feeling, but a mo- about to miss the boat. I hurriedly laid ment's reflection convinced me it was the aside my kimono and donned traveling train itself. The gauge of the track was costume, gathered my belongings to- what in America we call standard, the gether, and with a husky attendant's coaches were wide and commodious, the help rushed into the waiting sampan. THE M1D-PACIFIC 183

With the other passengers I was rowed ways did remind me of an old boot) that out to the waiting steamer. It was exactly were moored in the harbor, hoisted their ten o'clock when we scrambled up the square bamboo-ribbed sails, slipped their gangway and aboard. We had barely moorings and put to sea. They were a gotten our bearings when somebody pretty sight, but the place was fortified, learned that the steamer would sail at two and photographing prohibited. instead of sailing at noon. This owing to A Novel Entertainment the large amount of cargo to be loaded. As a matter of fact, it was four o'clock Not the least of the compensations for when we finally drew anchor and steamed the long wait was the old lady who told away. But the six hours put in aboard stories. She sat cross-legged on the after the small coaster had its compensations. deck. I do not know what she told, but The day was blisteringly hot. We had the manner in which she told it was most canvas shelter and got what breeze there entertaining. If it were merely stories was in the harbor. The cargo being she told, she must have had an endless loaded was brought alongside in lighters supply, all of them with pointed snappy and carried aboard by Korean coolies. endings, and if she gave them extracts One by one the lighters brought loads from her own biography she must have and departed empty. Now they brought had a wide and varied experience, filled dry fish, now rice. A continual stream of with dramatic and humorous incidents. Koreans walked up the gangway and de- Probably she did both, for she certainly posited the bags in the hold. No steam kept her audience, consisting of both crew winch or hoist about that job—just plain and passengers, in an uproar for two man power—weak in the head but strong hours. Sometimes her face grew tense in the back and in the-legs, too. Some- with the emotion of the story, but most of times between lighters they dropped their the time her face wore an easy, quizical one or two simple garments, and then smile, displaying two rows of teeth, in the with a splash they would drop over the lower one of which were two members side and refresh themselves by swimming missing. Her poor old thin hair was absolutely naked in the cool water. Their combed straight back and tied in a knot work they carried on with a sort of at the back of her head—her dress the rhythm. This, I might remark, is com- simplest of plain kimonos. Sometimes mon not only in Korea, but in Japan as during exciting stretches of narrative she well. Two men would seize the bales or let her cigarette go but, but she smoked sacks and swing them to the backs of most of the time, pausing occasionally to the passing line of coolies, the whole gang light up, while the laugh went round. keeping up a sort of chant in the mean- When at last lulls came in the story tell- time. I had seen this done before, but ing, and others saw fit to contribute their had a special opportunity to listen and mite, the old lady still occupied the cen- observe on this occasion. It was really ter of the group,, and with pointed re- ' musical and reminded me 'as much as marks or important additions still won anything of an old New England hymn, the bulk of the applause. "She must be and I am sure the last bag received an a very funny old lady," I said to a young appropriate "Amen." mining engineer who spoke some Eng- The afternoon slipped around. The lish. "She is," he replied, but did not book I had brought along to read, I suc- volunteer to translate any of the stories, ceeded in reading twice. One by one, the and they would have probably lost their stubby, junk-like fishing boats (they al- humor if he had. 184 THE MID-PACIFIC fx4shily Rai/way Lilies Ti-ers-Coofinenie/Redkroy line be/iv dad/ 7i-eos-Conbilente/ Rai/way and links Proposed

(NOTE.—This map does not show the full progress that has been made on the trans-continental railway, which is practically completed.)

Australia's Northern Territory A Vast Field for Settlers' Energy.

By W. H. CLARK.

=1=1311:121

CCORDING to many learned despite the great discomfort of certain authorities, the Northern Terri- seasons of the year, which is felt to a A tory should be one of the most greater or lesser degree by people ac- difficult places on earth for the white cording to their stamina and tempera- man to live in. According to a good ment, there are few places where a many healthy and remarkably lively old greater average proportion of the man- men who have spent 30 years and up- kind eat three big meals a day more wards in the Territory, the country is heartily. When it comes to vital sta- the very reverse. tistics, all theories seem to get upset. As a matter of plain fact, for a tropi- The death-rate is remarkably low ; and cal country, the climate of the Territory when one travels around much, and is, on the whole, a healthy one, and, sees the reckless disregard for health

185 186 THE MID-PACIFIC. and well-being that characterizes the 000,000 worth of minerals—gold, cop- ordinary bush-worker and mining pros- per, ,wolfram, silver, lead, and tin— pector, the respect for the climate grows. have been won, and every mining ex- Youngsters thrive there until they are pert agrees that exploitation has scarcely about nine or ten. Some go on thriv- gone beyond scratching the surface. The ing, but others after that age seem to mineral deposits extend over an enor- go off a bit. There are a fair number mous field, and prospecting has chiefly of women who demonstrate by their been done by small parties of slender vitality, after long residence in the Ter- resources and inadequate equipment. ritory, that the climate agrees with In many places, townships of consid- them ; but it must be understood that, erable size and importance followed in except in very rare instances, women in the wake of prospectors, and for a good a country like the Northern Territory, many years mining attracted miners and which is still in its primitive stage, capital. Unfortunately, some of the live under conditions which place them most promising "shows" got into the at an enormous disadvantage as com- hands of unscrupulous absentee specu- pared with men. The man in nine cases lators, who squandered the sharehold- out of ten either works in the open or ers' money in extravagant displays above spends much of his time- out of doors, ground, and did practically nothing to and enjoys plenty of variety. The wo- develop the mines. The results of mis- man for the, most part is tied to the management and wanton waste are to monotonous routine of domestic duties, be seen today in all sorts of places, under conditions so different to any- where valuable machinery, which must thing she has been used to that only have cost huge amounts in transporta- the most sanguine and robust females tion alone, lies rusting in the bush. The can accommodate themselves to the sit- re-action is still felt by owners of really uation. For this the conditions rather good propositions, who find it difficult than the climate may, in many instan- to attract the capital necessary for t ces, be responsible. One sees the same proper development. thing in pioneering parts of the Com- The system of handing over any like- monwealth and other countries, so it is ly "show" to Chinese, to be worked on very difficult to set down in plain fig- tribute, has also borne its fruit in fields .ures the extent to which the Territory pock-marked with shallow workings differs from other undeveloped country that are abandoned as soon as the in this respect. winning of metal gets beyond the primi- The country is well wooded from the tive methods of the Chinese miner. seaboard to the edge of the tablelands, A Bright Outlook and the forests comprise chiefly eu- calypts. There are belts of jungle and But now- that the development of the mangrove swamps and fetid marshes, Territory has been taken up in earnest, but there is no doubt the predominance the Commonwealth may confidently look of eucalyptus trees plays an important for a permanent revival in Territory part in the comparative freedom of the mining. The country is being system- Territory from many diseases peculiar atically investigated by a live Mines De- to tropical countries. partment with a trained and enthusi- The mining industry in the Territory astic staff, boring is being undertaken has always been confidently looked to scientifically, and funds are being spent as the means of most speedily settling judiciously in practical assistance to the population question. About £3,- properly-directed efforts. THE MID-PACIFIC 187

The establishment of an up-to-date most of the Northern Territory rivers, State battery and the extension of the particularly the Daly, Adelaide, and Al- railway to the Katherine—and it is to ligator. Nearly every authority who be hoped beyond that point—will bring has inspected these rich flats agrees within reasonable cost the working of that they are unsurpassed for rice cul- such a fine field as the Marranboy- ture. The area is certainly extensive probably one of the largest tin lodes in enough to make the Territory among Australia. the principal places for rice production. Competent authorities agree that if Permanent Streams only one of the many mineral fields in the Territory can be provided with the The Roper is a stream of entirely dif- appliances and the means of transport ferent character to the Katherine and necessary to properly develop it the re- Daly. The upper watershed is inter- sults will be such as to cause an influx sected by many small streams, some of of capital and skilled labor, with all the which start out as fair rivers, and settlers who come in their train. dwindle into insignificant creeks long before any signs of their junction with The Present Mainstay—Beef Production the river can be discerned. Until the time when huge sums can The Roper is joined by the Water- be spared for construction of railways house, which in turn is fed by springs and roads vital to mining, agriculture, oozing from the limestone. One fresh and wool production, and until people spring, not far from the junction of the in sufficient numbers can be induced to two streams, is of such volume that it pass attractive openings in those indus- freshens the Roper for miles. This tries in more settled parts of the Com- spring issues in a hole about 12 feet monwealth, the mainstay of the North- across and 15 feet deep, without any ern Territory is likely to be beef pro- surface outlet, and about 100 yards from duction. the main stream of the Waterhouse. It is easy enough to produce reports The paper-barks and pandanus palms and figures that belie the claims of the shading it have spread and entwined Northern Territory for cattle-raising, their roots until a thick mat has been but when we discuss the many failures in formed around the pool. The water pastoral enterprise there, it is necessary flowing into the hole in astounding also to consider the causes. Many hold- volume swirls like water on the boil ings have been stocked and abandoned. just above the encircling mat. The out- Hundreds of leases have been taken let is far down in the side of the pool, up and forfeited. Men of sound experi- and about 50 yards away the under- ence and substantial means have tried ground stream has torn gashes in the the industry in different parts of the surface. The water is perfectly clear, Territory, and given it up in despair. and as the sunlight strikes the swirling Today some of the foremost cattle men mass and penetrates in fantastic prisms condemn the country outright. Yet to the bottom, the effect of a writhing there are many stations carrying be- rainbow is so vividly reproduced that it tween them about half-a-million head is small wonder that the aborigines re- of cattle. gard the pool as the abiding place cif a rainbow. Rice Production The Roper within very few miles Vast expanses of flats subject to an- becomes a large river, with reaches nual innundation are characteristic of miles in length, separated by rocky bars, 188 THE MID-PACIFIC

until at 90 miles from its mouth, in the cattle rarely fall away in condition as Gulf of Carpentaria, -the last barrier, the result of the attacks. Leichhardt's Bar, is reached. Thence The hero of many a hair-raising tale, to the sea the Roper is a fine river. If the Northern Territory white ant, has the entrance could be improved, the eaten his way to fame. There are sev- stream to Leichhardt's Bar would be eral varieties, and the scale of their navigable for large vessels. destructiveness seems to be in inverse From a stock point of view, the ratio to the size of the mounds they Roper, despite its immense volume of erect. The denizens of huge 20-foot permanent water, is in its natural con- castles are really innocuous, the greatest dition inaccessible, except at half-a- evil-doers being a large species which dozen or so watering places many miles live below the surface in old roots and apart. However, once the country can stumps, and come up as if by magic to be used profitably for stock-raising, devour every scrap of timber, save the these difficulties could soon be over- local ironwood - and pine, which. they come. can get at. They will also be found in growing banana plants and in trees, but Pests whether they attack the growing tissue Of insect pests, the Territory has its or depend upon wounds or dead tissue share, and, perhaps, a bit more. So for a start is not known. far as man is concerned, the mosquito Experiments are now being conducted and the sandfly take a prominent part in order to determine the best means in putting in the little pricks of sorrow of coping with these pests, which have that some people think add so much to had the game all their own way ever the joys of life. With settlement and since the Territory was settled. the application of methods that have Cattle, pigs, and goats appear to suf- proved successful in other parts of the fer little from disease of any kind, either world beyond the tropics, as well as on the coast or inland. Among the within them, and which settlement alone cattle running wild in many parts of can render possible, the mosquito will the Territory as good specimens are be coped with. As a rule, the mosquito to be seen as on the average large sta- does not come out into the open spaces tion in other States ; and on Territory in the day-time, and it is truly remark- stations, where no fresh blood has been able how little one is troubled during introduced for many years, it is possible the hours of daylight in the coastal zone to muster mobs of bullocks that in any by any insect pests. Flies are scarcely market would be regarded as specially noticed at Darwin, for instance, during prime. The buffalo, which is a big the greater part of the year, but as one lump of .a beast, has, in the opinion of approaches the tableland they are as some people, improved in the Territory, plentiful as in the inland parts of any and he certainly has multiplied. of the States. With the prices of beef and by- The most serious pests to horses are products on a level from which they are large biting flies and buffalo flies. They unlikely to recede, on account of the torment horses to such a degree for ever-increasing demand for these com- several months, beginning about Novem- modities in countries which have out- ber, that the animals are scarcely fit to grown their own resources in cattle, the work, and fall away in condition. The pastoral outlook of the Territory is en- thicker hides of cattle seem to afford tirely different nowadays, and prosper- protection from these pests, and, al- ous development in this direction can though they suffer great torment, the be safely predicted. Shinto shrine at Kamakura, a religious center of Japan.

The National Japanese Religion

By A SON OF JAPAN

HINTOISM, or "The Way of the of the Imperial House, it is the worship Gods," is a cult which consists of of the first Imperial Ancestress and many S nature-worship and ancestor-wor- of her relatives and descendants, like ship, says the "Official Guide to East Susanowo-no-Mikoto, her brother, and Asia" ; the chief diety in its pantheon Ojin-Tenno, her descendant, which con- (of the so-called "8,000,000 gods") be- stitutes the leading characteristic of ing Amaterasu-Omikami, the Sun God- Shintoism. This fact has exercised a dess and Greant Ancestress of the Jap- very powerful influence in drawing to- anese Imperial House, whose line has gether round the Imperial Throne the extended in unbroken succession for hearts and minds of the Japanese peo- thousands of years to the present day. ple in unbounded loyalty and supreme While among other gods may be counted devotion. the gods and goddesses of the sea, river, The underlying idea of the Shinto wind, fire, and mountains, as well as service is that of purity and purification. well-known warriors and loyal servants The prayers (norito) offered at • the

189 190 THE MID-PACIFIC shrines have from time imemorial been and on stated occasions the product of known as harai (to sweep away), e. g., the looms. The Shinto shrine in its Nakatomi-no-harai and Hokkon-shojo- purest form is built of unvarnished wood harai ; while the charms (oharaibako), and covered with a thatched roof, being annually distributed from the Great Ise modelled after a primitive hut, with Shrines to every householder in the Em- little trace of later civilization. The main pire, are also known by the same name. building (honden) consists of two cham- These facts together with the customary bers ; the inner chamber containing a (almost compulsory) washing of hands mirror, a sword, or a curious stone as before worshipping, and the frequent ab- the emblem of the deity (mitamashiro) lutions of the body practised by Shinto and being generally kept closed ; while priests and devout believers, all show in the outer chamber stands the go-hei, the supreme impoitance attached by a rod from which hang strips of white Shintoism to purification. The impuri- paper, believed to represent offerings of ties from which the believers are to be cloth. The oratory, or hai-den, in front cleansed consist of contact with dead is usually connected with the hon-den bodies and human blood, and of the evil by a gallery, and above the front en- imaginings of the heart. The divine pro- trance, which is generally reached by a tection is also prayed for against nat- flight of stairs, there is a gong with a ural evils of all kinds—flood, pestilence, rope hanging from it, which worship- hurricane, earthquake, etc., and also pers pull to attract the attention of the against a national menace, like the great gods, this being followed by thrice clap- Mongolian invasion of the 13th century, ping the hands. Above the entrance is or the coming of Europeans (1854-1859) stretched horizontally a straw rope from demanding the opening of the country which hang separate straws and paper to foreign intercourse. slips. This is the shime-nawa, which is Shintoism has no system of theology believed to have power to avert evil, or of ethics. It teaches the innate good- especially pestilences. There is a stone ness of the human heart. "Follow the cistern on one side, of the path leading genuine impulses of your heart" is the to the hai-den, where worshippers wash essence of its ethical teachings. Its their hands before approaching the teaching regarding future rewards for shrine to worship. All Shinto shrines the deeds of the present life is, not quite have a peculiar gateway, called a torii, clear, though it explicitly says that the at the entrance to the shrine precints ; spirit lives after death. Shintoism knows sometimes there are several of these— no ascesticism, no celibate clergy, its first torii, second torii, etc.—at intervals priests may marry or eat animal food, along the approach to the shrine. There just as may the laity. Women serve in are generally found within the grounds the shrines as priestesses or kagura in the case of larger shrines a library, dancers but they never become nuns. treasury, dancing-stage (bugaku-dai), The offerings to the gods con- shrine-office, etc.—the entire grounds be- sist of rice, fish, fruits, vegetables, sake, ing enclosed by a fence or low wall. On THE MID-PACIFIC 191 the whole, studied simplicity and purity tecture and ritual also, the simple, un- are noticeable features of all Shinto adorned shrines of the former days were shrines. now replaced by elaborately carved and The devolopment of the Shinto cult gorgeously painted edifices, and the ser- in its pure form was checked in the 9th vice took on a semi-Buddhistic form, century by its practical absorption in the conducted by gorgeously dressed priests, all-comprehending philosophy of Ma- altogether very different from the origi- hayama Buddhism, which with its won- nal Shintoism, which was kept untainted derful apparatus and paraphernalia of by extarneous influences only at the Ise worship gained ascendency in the Im- and Izumo shrines. This state of things perial Court and throughout the Em- lasted for well-night 1,000 years, till pire. The chief agents in this process 1868 in fact, when, actuated by an un- of mingling Shintoism with Buddhism bounded enthusiasm for a Shintoist re- were Dengyo-Daisha, founder of the vival, the new Imperial Government car- Tendai Sect, and KObii-Daishi, founder ried out a reforming process, by which of the Shingon sect of Buddhism. This all the mixed Shinto shrines were freed great and important process, by which from their foreign Buddhistic or Hindu the former inveterate opposition of elements. Whatever these shrines gained Shintoism to the foreign religion was in doctrinal purity, they lost much from entirely overcome, was based on the an artistic point of view, as many of the Hindu doctrine of incarnation, accord- beautiful pagodas and other adornments ing to which all the Shinto deities were of temples, including some very precious made avatars or manifestations of Bud- images, were ruthlessly removed or des- dhas and Bodhisattvas ; thus, the Sun- troyed. Goddess, Amaterasu, worshipped at Ise, Throughout Japan proper, there is a was the manifestation of Birushana- Shinto shrine in each village (in large Buddha (Dainichi Nyorai), an imperson- towns several shrines), the deity of ation of light, a colossal image of whom which is looked upon as the tutelary is found at Nara and other images else- deity of the village (or of a district in where ; the Emperor Ojin, deified as the own or city). Formerly the Shinto Hachi-man, the God of War, was the priests scarcely ever performed funeral manifestation of a Bodhisattva. hence services, the dead being given over to given the name of Hachiman Dai Bosa- the care of Buddhism. But of late. tsu ; Sugawara Michizane and Toku- Shintoism funeral services have come to gawa Iyeyasu were deified as manifes- be quite fashionable. Until recent years tations of Bodhisattvas, being known by marriages were never performed under the names of Tenjin and Gongen respec- religious auspices, either Buddhist or tively. Many Hindu deities, too, were Shinto, but it has lately become some- introducted into the pantheon of the thing of a fad to have a wedding cele- mixed or two-fold Shintoism. In archi- brated in a Shinto shrine. 192 THE MID-PACIFIC

Just typical smiling faces met with up and down the Chilean Coast. Inca ruins.

Doing the South Coast of South America

By WILLIAM A. REID Pan American Union Staff

FTER a pleasant sojourn in the the influx of new peoples ; neither has Chilean capital the tourist, in European) capital responded so freely to A accordance with his itinerary, their call for financial aid in upbuilding. turns his course northward and home- It should be remembered that from ward. In so doing he should bear in Magellan to Panama stretches the mind these facts : The eastern countries world's greatest commerce - defying of the Continent have received from mountain system. Constructing rail- early days a stream of European immi- ways and highways within this zone gration, which has greatly aided their has been the patient toil of years rather commercial and industrial advancement. than the work of months. Truly, the The countries of western South Ameri- east coast and the west coats offer won- ca have not to any great extent enjoyed derful contrasts. Nature evidently de-

193 194 THE MID-PACIFIC signed the former .for the man who tills dust should be eaten only after thor- the soil and rears the flock ; the latter ough cleansing. for those who would delve into the The next railroad is Calera, where the kingdom of minerals. To enjoy our "Chilean longitudinal" continues its tour to the fullest let us take things as course northward. The tourist could they are ; not condemn for lack of prog- travel hundreds of miles north through ress but, if possible, bestow a word of the Chilean mining region by this rail- praise for difficulties surmounted—for road, but at present fast trains suitable ends attained. for the tourist are not operated. As a We are to pass over vast areas where rule ships are faster and more comfort- rain never falls ; to visit towns and vil- able ; one could, however, travel slowly lages that have been building for a hun- by rail and finally enter Boliva without dred years and more, but are not mod- even seeing the ocean. ern ; and in some cases we shall see the Shortly before arriving at Valparaiso decaying marks of peoples who builded the train halts at Villa del Mar, Chile's marvelously — a challenge to the most great seaside resort. It is considered skilled constructors of today ; all in all, best to continue to Valparaiso, settle the remainder of our tour will be quite one's self in a hotel, and return by trolley as interesting as the beginning, but of to the resort. an entirely different nature as regards Valparaiso (Vale of Paradise) has sightseeing and development. 200,0W population ; the place was named by its founder, Saavedra, after his na- Planing to leave Santiago for Valpar- tive village in Spain. Like Naples, aiso by a morning train, we secure Pull- Gibraltar, Hongkong, Nagasaki, and man chair seats a day in advance, and many other great ports of the world, passing down the Alameda in automo- there is an upper and a lower city; and bile or coach, bid farwell to the Chilean these are connected by several public capital. The distance to Valparaiso is elevators and by winding streets. Earth- 115 miles ; fare, 12.80 pesos, with 4 quakes have from time to time wrought pesos extra for Pullman seat (about destruction, but each time the city rises $3.35) ; the time is from 372 to 4 hours. Probably the most interesting little sta- in more modern form. It is built around tion along the way is Llai Llai, which a semicircular bay, opening to the north, has about 3000 people, and is a junction and occasionally heavy swells or "north- of the railroad from southern Chile ers" sweep in from the sea and cause with the trans-Andine. Roads in this damage to harbor shipping. Millions section are standard gauge, and first- of dollars are being spent in constructing class service is maintained. At Llai Llai breakwaters in order to make the har- many native women and children offer bor safe at all seasons. delicious fruits and other foods to the Places of interest are the naval school traveler ; the fruit is often very fine, on the heights, from which there is an but on account of being exposed to excellent view over the harbor ; private THE MID-PACIFIC 195

residences, many of which overhang the fer to those of the other. This service lower city ; Government Palace ; the wa- permits of approximately weekly sail- ter front, which offers opportunities for ings. The lines are Cia. Sud Americana those interested in the movement of com- de Vapores and the Pacific Steam Navi- merce; new naval docks. A day may be gation Co., the former a Chilean and the profitably spent in wandering or motor- latter an English company. From Peru- ing about Vina del Mar visiting the vian ports to Panama there is the Peru- casinos, clubs, bathing beaches, hotels, vian Line, and a Japanese company is or viewing the residences of people of now sailing its fine passenger ships be- wealth and refinement. The profusion tween Valparaiso, Panama, San Fran- of flowers is another attraction of this cisco, and the Orient. The Japanese ves- resort which will be doubly pleasing if sels are the largest passenger vessels the visitor arrives in the summer sea- now in service along the west coast. son (our winter). There are always Most tourists prefer to break the long guests from various parts of Chile, from voyage by a visit to Bolivia. Suppose, Argentina, Bolivia, and other countries. then, we leave the ship at Antofagasta. From Valparaiso to Panama the tour- This city of 20,000 people has com- ist has a voyage of 3,200 miles( time, pletely changed its life and appearance 15 days for fast vessels making few within the last two years. Street paving, stops), and for more than half the dis- sidewalks, new buildings, paint, motor tance the ship sails with the northward- cars, and motor busses have wrought flowing Humboldt current, which bathes marvelous improvements. the whole Chilean and many miles of the About twice a week there is a through Peruvian coast. Along this vast coast train to La Paz, the capital of Bolivia. line stretches one of the world's mineral The distance is 711 miles ; time, 45 wonderlands. Hundreds of miles are hours ; the gauge of the road is 272 feet ; bare and brown; nothing grows and and the highest elevation along the line nothing lives, save where man here and is approximately 12,500 feet above the there has established settlements and sea. The route lies across the nitrate towns, whose inhabitants are kept alive region of Chile and through the mineral by the importation of food and drink. belt of Bolivia. Sleeping and day In supplying Antofagasta, for instance, coaches are provided. Meals are served with water for domestic purposes a pipe in a dining car, and they are a credit to line nearly 200 miles long is in use. the English company operating the road. In normal times there are five or Some people find the journey Monot- more lines of steamers which transport onous ; others consider it interesting and delight in watching the sights along the the traveler northward, and on at least way, such as nitrate operations, salt two of these lines the tickets are inter- lakes, native villages, droves of llamas changeable. We may go part way by and alpacas, primitive peoples, and won- one company's vessels and then trans- derful views. A short distance beyond 196 THE MID-PACIFIC

Calama the train passes over a bridge capitol building, the municipal theater, spanning the River Loa. The former is and the private residences on the Ala- 336 feet above the rusing waters, while meda. Persons interested in antiquities the altitude is over 10,000 feet above sea will find a wealth of material in Bolivia, level. Lake Poopo, which receives the and a visit to the National Museum in waters of Lake Titicaca, and has prac- La Paz should not be neglected. The tically no visible outlet, is one of the city's markets are also interesting, es- interesting sights near the road. pecially on Sundays, and to those fa- At Oruro, 150 miles, from La Paz, all miliar with the market places of Cairo, passengers must change to the standard- Darjeeling, etc., which always have their -gauge railway, which was built by complement of tourists, the life, customs, United States capitalists. The business and colorings seen at La Paz form strik- man may stop over at Oruro and possi- ing comparisons. A coach or motor-car bly visit Cochabamba in Bolivia's rich trip to Obrajes is well worth making. agricultural region ; but the tourist, in The average tourist in his hasty visit his usual hurry, passes on to La Paz. does not see Bolivia in detail—a land The first sight of the Bolivian metrop- which the gifted naturalist, Raimundi, olis from the Alto, where the steam rail. described as'a table of silver supported way terminates, is indescribably pic- by columns of gold," so abundantly has turesque. A modern electric road nature deposited her minerals in this conveys the traveler down the part of the world. May to December is mountain side into the city. The wind- usually regarded as the best season for ing ride of a few miles presents at every the stranger to visit Bolivia. turn new and attractive views. One Leaving La Paz, the tourist will make wonders why the city was started so the best use of his time by passing out deep down in a gigantic valley. This via Lake Titicaca to Mollendo, on the is explained by the fact that early set- Pacific. Distance from La Paz is 520 tlers found specks of gold in the streams miles. He could go directly to Arica, flowing down from the mountains, and 287 miles, but in choosing the shorter the settlement has grown to a populous route would miss the ruins of Tiahuan- city. acu as well as the experience of a steamer La Paz voyage on the highest large body of wa- La Paz has more than 80,000 people. ter in the world, Lake Titicaca. Fifty Many of its streets are steep,. but mod- miles from La Paz, en route to the lake, ern electric cars wind in and out, while the railway train passes through a sec- automobiles are growing in number and tion of Tiahuanacu. The train usually are especially serviceable in the newer stops and one may secure glimpses of and more modernly paved sections of vast ruins on either side of the road. If the city and its suburbs. La Paz pos- longer time is desired special arrange- sesses many ancient and imposing build- ment should be made with the railway ings ; among the latter . are the new officials before leaving La Paz. Advertising Section

The Pacific Mail Steamship Co.

The S.S. "Colombia" en route. The Pacific Mail Steamship Company Some of the features for the safety and has not only resumed its service between pleasure of passengers on these Pacific San Francisco via Honolulu to Japan, Ocean greyhounds are: wireless telegraphy China and the Philippines, but it is carry- and daily newspapers, watertight bulk- ing the American flag by its direct steamers heads, double bottoms, bilge keels, oil to India and to the Latin Atherican Coast burners (no smoke or dirt), single rooms as far South as Panama, with connections and rooms with two beds, two washstands beyond, all along the Pacific South Amer- in each room, as well as large clothes' ican coast and with Europe. lockers, electric fans and electric reading The Pacific Mail Steamship Company lights for each bed, spacious decks, swim- operates indeed the one "American Round ming tank, Filipino band, veranda cafe, the Pacific Line." of comfortable and mod- beautiful dining saloons, large and small ern steamers. tables, and every comfort of modern ocean The vessels of the Pacific Mail Steam- travel with the best cuisine on the Pacific. ship Company are all splendid passenger The general offices of the Pacific Mail ships of 14,000 tons American registry. Steamship Company are at 508 California The new sister ships, "Colombia," "Ecua- Street, San Francisco, California, with or," and "Venezuela" constitute the service branch offices at Hongkong, Yokohama, to Honolulu, Yokohama, Kobe, Shanghai, Kobe, Shanghai and Manila, while agen- Manila and Hongkong. cies and sub-agencies exist in almost every The "Colusa" and the "Santa Cruz" are Pacific port, in all of the large cities of the pioneers in the service to Singapore, America and the rest of the world. Calcutta and Colombo via Manila. George J. Baldwin, President of the A fleet of steamers maintains the service Pacific Mail Steamship Company is located between San Francisco, Mexico, Central at 120 Broadway, New York City, N. Y.; American ports and Panama. John H. Rosseter, Vice-President and Gen- For the Tourist or Shipper to almost any part of the Pacific, the new American eral Manager; W. A. Young Jr., General vessels of the rejuvenated Pacific Mail Passenger Agent; and T. James, Freight Steamship Company offer inducements that Agent, at 508 California street, San Fran- are not being overlooked. cisco, California. 2 THE MID-PACIFIC

1 "Little Journeys" About San Francisco

Golden Gate and San Francisco from Nob Hill.

"San Francisco has only one draw- San Francisco is world famous for the back," wrote Rudyard Kipling, " 'tis capacity of its people to get the best hard to leave." Why this omniscient out of life, a happy faculty which the traveler of "The Seven Seas" rendered new-corner quickly acquires. There is such a tribute to the attractions of "the something in its free atmosphere that city loved around the world" will be makes the visitor feel at home, rather better appreciated by those who take than "a stranger in a strange town." some of the interesting "little journeys" After a drive up the panoramic Twin described in "TRIPS AROUND SAN Peaks Boulevard, then through the FRANCISCO" published by the South- matchless Golden Gate Park to the Ocean ern Pacific Company. Beach, you will return with an appetite Before leaving the Hawaiian Islands which will enable you to do justice to for the United States, tourists should the good things set before you at the obtain copies of this booklet which is particular one of San Francisco's many distributed free at the Southern Pacific noted cafes that you may select. And agency in the Waity Building, Honolulu. after an evening's entertainment at a En route to San Francisco, they will sumptuously appointed theater, you will have ample time to plan their itineraries retire to one of the many palatial hotels, so as to include visits to some of these feeling that you are indeed a San Fran- places of romantic and scenic charm. ciscan "by brevet." Instead of hurrying through this fas- It would be usurping the usefulness cinating city on their way across Amer- of this comprehensive, but ,concise, book- ica by one of the four Southern Pacific let to do more than refer it to the trav- routes, they may well spend a month eler who desires to be well-informed con- in central California, taking a different cerning a region he expects to traverse. trip every day to its varied showplaces. Besides its descriptions of the city by While truly a typical, hustling Amer, the Golden Gate, the attractions of its ican community, San Francisco is most environs are set forth effectively. Among distinctively cosmopolitan. Its pic- twenty-six trips suggested to the sight- turesque "Chinatown"—to quote Kipling seer are pilgrimages to the old missions, again—is like "a ward of the city of and to Nature's shrines among the red- Canton." Enterprising Japanese mer- woods and on the summits of such peaks chants rub sleeves with their Chinese as Mount Tamalpais, Monte Diablo and competitors, while to the northward Mount Hamilton, where the celebrated "Little Italy" climbs the steeps of Tele- Lick Observatory is situated more than graph Hill, looking down upon the mass- ed sky-scrapers in the solid business 4000 feet above the orchard mosaic of section. Santa Clara Valley. THE MID-PACIFIC 3

America's First Trans-Continental Railway, The Union-Pacific

In.,otres Union Pacific Railway across the Continent.

A map of the Union Pacific Railway and connections.

Straight as an arrow across the Con- at 9 :00 a. m., two and one-half days later, tinent seems the line of the Union Pacific, with New York City but twenty hours the "Overland Route." beyond. This train has its barber shop, The Lincoln Highway parallels the bathrooms, ladies' maid, valet, stenog- Union Pacific Railroad its entire length. rapher, select library, stock and market re- Not only is it the business man's trans- ports by wire, club car for gentlemen, continental route, but the Union Pacific electric ventilation, compartments, and is the one railway system that reaches out drawing rooms en suite. It is travel de to the great National Parks and Monu- luxe in America. ments set aside by our government as the Yellowstone National Park is reached playgrounds of our American people. by the Union-Pacific System, as is Rocky The Overland Limited is the swift direct Mountain National Park in Colorado—the route between San Francisco, Chicago and great scenic area of that State about Den- the East, but there are stop-overs and side ver—tributary to and served by the Union- trips covering nearly all of America's great Pacific System. Western national parks and scenic wonders. S. F. Booth is General Agent of the The Overland leaves San Francisco at Union Pacific system in San Francisco, at 4:00 p. m. every day, arriving in Chicago 673 Market Street. 4 THE MID-PACIFIC

rial•-•■•■■■••■••••■••■■■•••••••••••■•••■■•■•••■•••■•■•■•■■■•■■■■■ • The Most Interesting Route Across America The Santa Fe

Along the line of the Santa Fe

The Santa Fe California Limited leaves starts for a twelve-mile drive through Yose- San Francisco daily at 9:00 a. m., ex- mite National Park. Train leaves Merced 8:00 a. m., arrives El Portal 11:35 a. m. clusively for first-class passengers, passing same day. Returning, leaves El Portal through the heart of California by day- 1:35 p. m., arrives Merced 5:10 p. m. light, reaching Yosemite region at 1:45 Round-Trip Fares to Yosemite Valley p.m., Grand Canyon, Arizona, at 7:30 a.m., (rail and automobile) from San Francisco, Chicago at 11:15 a. m., and New York $20.00; from Merced, $13.50; from Los City at 9:40 a. m., all convenient hours, Angeles, $29.50. Free baggage allowance, especially if stop-overs are to be made. In 150 pounds on railroads and 50 pounds the opposite direction an equally convenient on stage. Stop-overs granted at Merced schedule for the tourist is maintained. on all classes of tickets for persons wishing Santa Fe, New Mexico, the Old World to take the Yosemite side trip. city in modern America, the Petrified for- Elegant Santa Fe trains—The Saint and est of Arizona, and the Laguna Indian The Angel—have been placed in service pueblos, are all worthy of visits, while the between San Diego, Los Angeles and San two scenic wonders of America west of Francisco, through the San Joaquin Valley Niagara Falls, are on the line of the Santa —a fast through night run both ways. Fe—Yosemite and the Grand Canyon. If you have not visited the Grand Can- This region of wonderful forests, stupen- yon of Arizona, you should stop off en dous waterfalls and towering cliffs is reach- route from California. ed by rail. You leave the Limited at Williams, Through Santa Fe trains connect at Arizona, stop a few hours at Fray Marcos Merced, Calif., with local trains of Yose- station hotel, and take a branch train to mite Valley R. R. to El Portal, where the Canyon—a quick run. When ready passengers are accommodated at Del Portal to resume eastbound journey, you take Hotel. Early each morning an automobile special Pullman at Grand Canyon. THE MID-PACIFIC 5

T he Foreign Trade Club of San Francisco W. H. Haigue, Secretary, (Monadnock Building, San Francisco)

The Foreign Bldg., Seattle. Across-the-seas correspon- Trade Club of dents invited to write San Francisco office. S a n Francisco Banking and foreign trade go hand-in- hand. San Francisco boasts of some of meets every the most interesting and historic banks in Wednesday even- America. The Wells-Fargo National ing in the lecture Bank is perhaps the best known of these. hall of the Mer- It was founded in 1852, a pioneer of the chants Exchange Gold days, with a present capital and sur- Building, to lis- plus of $11,000,000 and assets of $75,000,- 000. It has been foremost in building up ten to some dis- the financial and business prestige of San tinguished over- Francisco, and has spread facilities for seas speaker, and trade across the Pacific. Deposits of visitors to study the ethics and correspondence are invited, exchange is of foreign export. issued, collections and payments effected, Visitors to San and safe deposit boxes provided. Francisco are in- The Pacific American Trading Com- vited to the lec- pany—Frank H. Stone, manager—offices in Orient Building tures. the Santa Marina Bldg., 112 Market St., (Home of Thomas W. Sim- Thomas W. San Francisco, and representatives in all mons & Co.) Simmons & Co., countries. C. I. F. quotations given and head offices in the Orient Bldg., San Fran- samples sent whenever practical, free. The cisco, is represented in the Foreign Trade motto of this house is "Service." Club by its vice-president, F. S. Douglas. Mr. H. W. Friesleben, of the Foreign This very important firm of International Department of the Pacific Sanitary Manu- merchants has branch houses in New York, facturing Company-67, New Mont- Seattle, and Hongkong. Specializing as it gomery street, San Francisco—is the firm does in Oriental products, it has its own representative in the Foreign Trade Club. representatives in every large city from His firm has installed "Pacific" plumbing Yokohama, Japan, to Sourabaya, Java, and in many of the public schools of San Fran- Bambok in Burmah. All codes used; cable cisco and California, and has trade rela- address, "Simmons, San Francisco." tions with every part of the Pacific. The President of the Foreign Trade The home office of the Sperry Flour Club is William H. Hammer, of the Ship- Company is in the Orient Building, 332 ping and Commission firm of Hammer and Pine street, San Francisco, the headquar- Company, 310 Clay street (Phone Sutter ters of Pan-Pacific Trade. A Sperry Pro- 54). Visitors to the Commercial Muesum duct, whether it be flour or cereal, will in the Monadnock Building may reach this earn appreciation around the Pacific, be- and other Foreign Trade Club firms by cause everything that men, method, and phone, free service being supplied. modern machinery can do to make it worthy of favor has been done before it Mr. Ben C. Daily, of the Foreign Trade appears on the grocer's shelves. Club, is the representative in San Francisco The members of the Associated Manu- of the Overseas Shipping Company, his facturers Importing Company, 883 Market office being in the Merchants Exchange street, have been established in business in Building (Phone Sutter 4459). This con- San Francisco since 1857. They specialize cern reserves space on Pacific vessels for in hardware, tools and metals. Imports its customers at lowest rates, is efficient, and and exports of all raw or manufactured handles all details in connection with ap- products that amount to a large volume, plications for Government Export licenses. undertaken. This company has large re- Other offices at 327 La Salle St., Chicago ; sources, good people to act as American 17 Battery Place, New York; L. C. Smith Buying Agents for Overseas Merchants. 6 THE MID-PACIFIC

Honolulu from the Trolley Car

Surfriding as Seen From the Cars of the Rapid Transit Company. You may take the electric tram as you beautiful mountain valleys behind Hono- step off of the steamer in Honolulu, and lulu, or you may transfer to Kaimuki for five cents ride for hours—if you wish on the heights behind Diamond Head, to take transfers—to almost every pare which is now a great fortress; in fact, of this wondrously beautiful city and its the entire day may be spent with profit on suburbs. the car lines. At Waikiki often may be There appeared in the Mid-Pacific seen from the cars men and boys disporting Magazine for January, 1915, an article themselves on their surfboards, as they telling of a hundred sights to be seen come in standing before the waves on these from the street cars. little bits of wood. The cars in Honolulu are all open, for At one end of the King street car line the temperature never goes below 68 de- is Fort Shafter, on a commanding hill, grees, nor does it rise above 85 degrees, from which may be seen the cane lands and and there is always a gentle trade wind rice fields, stretching to Pearl Harbor in stirring. the distance. Before reaching Fort Shafter When Honolulu was ready for her is the Bishop Museum, having the most re- electric tram system, the Honolulu Rapid markable Polynesian collection in the Transit & Land Co. completed the most world. At the other end of the line is perfect system of its kind in the world, Kapiolani Park, a beautiful tropical garden, and it is always a delight to ride smoothly in which is located the famous aquarium of over its lines. Hawaiian fishes, rivaled only by the aqua- It is but twenty minutes by car to Wai- rium in Naples. kiki beach and but five minues longer, by Transfers are given to branch lines the same car, to the wonderful aquarium penetrating several of the wonderfully in Kapiolani Park. THE MID-PACIFIC 7 The Island of Maui

MAUI Area in Statute Srittarelen 7/8 Length 48 Filler, Breadth 30 hides Hilbest. Elevation 10,031 Frey Largett Exi met Crater m the Well Population over 2,5.000

Di4tonee from Hama1.1 72Iw[i k Eleven Se,,er Pirmtotte Sklar Crop for 19cilt to41

Map by courtesy of Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd.

The firm of Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., Co, American Cental Insurance Co., The (known by everyone as "A. & B.") is Home Insurance Co. of New York, The looked upon as one of the most progressive New Zealand Insurance Co., General A. F. American corporations in Hawaii. & L. Assurance Corporation, German Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., are agents Alliance Insurance Association, Switzer- for the largest sugar plantation of the Ha- land Marine Insurance Co., Ltd. waiian Islands and second largest in the The officers of this large and progressive world, namely, the Hawaiian Commercial firm, all of whom are staunch supporters of and Sugar Company at Puunene, Maui. the Pan-Pacific and other movements which They are also agents for many other plan- are for the good of Hawaii, are as follows: tations and concerns of the Islands, among J. P. Cooke President which are the Haiku Sugar Company, Paia W. M. Alexander First Vice-Pres. Plantation, Maui Agricultural Company, J. R. Galt Second Vice-Pres. Hawaiian Sugar Company, McBryde Sugar W. 0. Smith Third Vice-Pres. Company, Ltd., Kahului Railroad Com- John Waterhouse Treasurer pany, Kauai Railroad Company, Ltd., John Guild Secretary and Honolua Ranch. H. A. Baldwin, F. C. Atherton, A. L. This firm ships a larger proportion of the Castle and C. R. Hemenway, directors. total sugar crop of the Hawaiian Islands Besides the home office in the Stangen- than any other agency. wald Building, Honolulu, Alexander & In addition to their extensive sugar plan- Baldwin, Ltd., maintain extensive offices in tations, they are also agents for the follow- Seattle, in the Melhorn Building; in New ing well-known and strong insurance com- York at 82 Wall St., and in the Alaska panies: Springfield Fire & Marine Ins., Commercial Building, San Francisco.

8 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Island of Kauai

TO SAN FRANCISCO AND JAPAN. The Matson Steam Navigation Co., maintaining the premier ferry service be- tween Honolulu and San Francisco, and the Toyo Kishen Kaisha, maintaining pa- latial ocean greyhound service between San Francisco and the Far East via Honolulu, have their Hawaiian agencies with Castle & Cooke, Ltd. This, one of the oldest firms in Hono- lulu, occupies a spacious building at the corner of Fort and Merchant streets, Hono- lulu. The ground floor is used as local passenger and freight offices of the Toyo Kisen Kaisha and of the Matson Steam Navigation Company. The adjoining of- fices are used by the firm for their busi- ness as sugar facturs and insurance agents; Phone 1251. Castle & Cooke, Ltd., act as agents for many of the plantations throughout Ha- waii, and here may he secured much varied information. Here also the tourist may se- cure in the folder racks, booklets and pam- phlets descriptive of almost every part of the great ocean. Maps by courtesy of Castle & Cooke, Ltd.

r A (.

NONOIOIU NOR% 50001 .5Cf.t.f Of MILLS . n

D WI :6° 1. THE MID-PACIFIC 9

Map by courtesy of the Pacific Guano & Fertilizer Co.

The Island of Hawaii is about twice the size of Delaware.

The soil of Hawaii is of a character that fertilizer. It gets sulphate of ammonia requires fertilization to a great extent. from England, nitrates from Chile, while When one speaks of the fertilizer business tons of sulphur are brought direct from of Hawaii, he speaks of the Pacific Guano Japan to the works. It costs, ordinarily, and Fertilizer Co. The majority of the fifty dollars an acre to fertilize pineapple sugar and pineapple plantations are sup- lands, unless it is the fertilizer from the plied by this company. A very large con- Pacific Guano and Fertilizer Co. that is em today, the Pacific Guano and Fertilizer used, when the expense is cut in half. If Co. is the outgrowth of a small industry you need fertilizer for your garden or which followed the discovery of rich guano your plantation, call up Phone No. 1585, deposits on Laysan Island. These deposits and the Pacific Guano and Fertilizer Co. have been so depleted that the company now will gladly advise you, making a chemical secures its supply from other Pacific islands, analysis of the soil, if necessary, and mix- and at the same time is a large exporter ing the fertilizer in accord with the de- of other articles used in the manufacture of mands of the soil. 10 THE MID-PACIFIC

Exterior.

Interior. The Home Building in Honolulu of H. Hackfeld & Co., Ltd., Plantation Agents, Wholesale Merchants and Agents for the American-Hawaiian, and all the principal Atlantic S. S. Lines. THE MID-PACIFIC' 11

Electric Lighting in Honolulu I

The general offices on King Street.

THE HAWAIIAN ELECTRIC CO. dred horse power, with another two hun- dred and fifty horse power to the Federal In Honolulu electricity costs ten cents Wireless Station fifteen miles distant, be- per kilowatt, for the first two kilowatts sides current for lighting all private resi- per month per lamp, and six cents dences in Honolulu, as well as for operat- thereafter. From the Hawaiian Electric ing its own extensive ice plant. A line is Company plant, power is furnished to the now being built to furnish light and power pineapple canneries (the largest canneries to the great army post at Schofield Bar- in the world) to the extent of seven hun- racks, twenty miles distant from Honolulu.

The power house and ice plant. 12 THE MID-PACIFIC

THE TRUST CO. IN HAWAII. Honolulu was one of the first cities to adopt the idea of the Trust Company. In 1852 Henry Waterhouse began business in Honolulu, and just fifty years later the name of his firm was changed to the "Henry Waterhouse Trust Company" and this very successful concern continues to occupy the ground floor of the Campbell Block on Fort and Merchant streets. Here was born the first commercial wireless system in the world—that of Hawaii. There are spacious vaults for valuable papers, insur- ance departments, real estate features, and every department common to the up-to-date Trust Company. The Company is also a member of the Honolulu Stock and Bond Exchange. Located in the heart of the business cen- ter of Honolulu, here stock and bonds are exchanged, insurance is issued and every kind of real estate handled, and here, too, is the home of the Kaimuki Land Co., and the agency for the Volcano House at the Crater of Kilauea. THE MID-PACIFIC 13

The Catton, Neill Building, Honolulu. Also the home of the General Electric Co. in Hawaii. Honolulu is known around the world Half a century is an age in the life of for the manufacture of sugar mill ma- Honolulu. The first frame building is not chinery. Much of this is made by Catton, one hundred years old, and the first hard- Neill & Co., Ltd., Engineers, who build ware store, that of E. 0. Hall & Son, Ltd., and erect sugar mill machinery. The was not founded until the year 1850, but works are on South Street, Honolulu, while since then, on the commanding corner of the offices and salesrooms are located in a Fort and King streets, it has remained the new concrete building on Alakea and Queen premier hardware concern in Hawaii. The streets, erected recently for this purpose. entire three-story building is taken up Here are seen the displays of the General with extensive displays of every kind of Electric Co., of which Catton, Neill & hardware. One floor, however, is given Co., Ltd., are Hawaiian agents, as well as over to crockery and kitchen utensils, while for the leading gas engines, water wheels, in the basement even a ship might be fitted steam plows, pumps, condensers and tools out with its hardware, cordage, and roping manufactured in the United States. This needs. This company is also agent for the is one of the oldest engineering firms in Sherwin-Williams house paints and repre- Hawaii. sents many mainland hardware firms.

7. 0. Hall & Son Building, Fort and King streets. ,4 THE MID-PACIFIC

A Progressive Trust Company

The Trent Trust Company, though a to handle the work of Manager of Es- comparatively young organization, is tates, Executor, Fiduciary Agent, and one of the most popular financial in- Agent for Non-Residents. It has the stitutions in the Islands. Organized in following departments : Trusts, Invest- 1907, it has already doubled its capi- ments, Real Estate, Rents, Insurance, talization to $100,000. According to and Safe Deposit. the last statement its capital undivided The Trent Trust's offices are located surplus amounted to $188,788.51, and on the ground floor of 921 Fort Street, its gross assets to $538,067.55. the principal business thoroughfare of The company is efficiently organized Honolulu.

The great women's dry goods department store of B. F. Ehlers & Company, occupies half of the main block on Fort Street. It is the largest and most complete estab- lishment of its kind in Honolulu, and here every kind of dry goods may be found. THE MID-PACIFIC 15

HOME FERTILIZING. For the small planter this company makes The Hawaiian Fertilizer Company stores special fertilizers, and the gardens of Hono- its fertilizers in the largest concrete ware- lulu are kept beautiful by the use of a house west of the Rockies. The works of special lawn fertilizer made by this com- this company cover several acres near Hono- pany. Fertilizing alone has made Hawaii lulu. The ingredients are purchased in the garden of the Pacific. shipload lots, and the formulas adopted by H. F. Wichman & Company's jewelry the different plantations for their fertilizers establishment on Fort Street, is one of are made up at the works of the Hawaiian Honolulu's show places. The gold and sil- Fertilizer Company. Their chemists ana- verware display is well worth a morning's •lyze the soils and suggest the formulas. study.

Hawaii's leading jewelry establishment 16 THE MID-PACIFIC

Banking in Honolulu

The First National Bank of Hawaii at the corner of Fort and King Streets, Hono- lulu. This bank is the de- pository' in Hawaii of the United States Government.

The operations of this Bank began with the encouragement of the whaling business, then the leading industry of the islands, and the institution has ever been closely identi- fied with the industrial and commercial progress of the Islands. The partners in the firm consist of Mr. S. M.Damon, Mr. Allen W. T. Bottomley and J. L. Cock- burn. On Dec. 30, 1916, the deposits with this bank amounted to $10,714,285.79. The Bank of Honolulu, Ltd., located on Fort Street, is an old established financial institution. It draws on the principal parts of the world, issues cable transfers, and transacts a general banking business. The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd., is the most recently incorporated Trust Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders are closely identified with the largest business interests in the Territory. Its The entrance to the Bank of Hawaii, directors and officers are men of ability, the central bank of Honolulu, with a integrity and high standing in the com- capital, surplus and undivided profits munity. The Company was incorporated amounting to nearly a million and a half, in June of 1911 with a capital of $100,000 or more than the total of any other bank fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated in the Hawaiian Islands. It has its own doubling this capital. On June 30th, 1917, magnificent building at the busiest busi- the Capital of the Company was $200,- ness corner of Honolulu, Merchant and 000; Surplus $10,000, and Undivided Fort streets; has a savings department and Profits $53,306.75. It conducts a trust was organized in 1897. company business in all its various lines The Banking House of Bishop & Co. was established August 17, 1858, and has oc- with offices in the Stangenwald Building. cupied its premises on the corner of Mer- Merchant St., adjoining the Bank of chant & Kaahumanu Streets, since 1877. Hawaii. THE MID-PACIFIC 17

it

THE BUILDERS OF HONOLULU. Honolulu still relies for building ma- terial on the mainland. For many years the firm of Lewers & Cooke maintained its own line of clipper schooners that brought down lumber from Puget Sound with which to "build Hawaii." Today this firm occupies its own spacious block on King Street, where every necessity need- ed for building the home is supplied. In fact, often it is this firm that guarantees the contractor, and also assures the owner that his house will be well built and com- pleted on time. Things are done on a large scale in Hawaii; so it is that one firm BMW undertakes to supply material from the breaking of ground until the last coat of paint is put on the completed building. A spacious and splendidly equipped hardware department is one of the features of Lewers & Cooke's establishment. 18 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Tourist's Hawaii

The Alexander Young Hotel (under same management as Moana and Seaside Hotels).

The Von Hamm-Young Co., Importers, Board of Trade has the hearty co-operation Machinery Merchants, and leading auto- of the Hilo Railway. This Railway has mobile dealers, have their offices and store recently extended its rails thirty-two miles in the Alexander Young Building, at the along the precipitous coasts of Lapauhoehoe corner of King and Bishop Streets, and and beyond. This thirty-two mile rail trip their magnificent automobile salesroom and is one of the scenic trips of the world. The garage just in the rear, facing on Alakea Hilo Railway also extends in the opposite street. Here one may find almost any- direction to the hot springs of Puna, and a thing. Phone No. 4901. branch with the Auto Service takes the Hawaii is the Big Island. Hilo is the tourist from the steamer wharf to the edge chief port, and from Hilo excursions are of the ever-active Kilauea. made to all the points of interest. The CRATER HOTEL, Volcano Hawaii, A. T. Hilo Board of Trade has recently taken up Short, Proprietor. See Wells Fargo Ex- the matter of home promotion work and is press Co., Paradise Tours, Inter-Island developing the wonderful scenic surround- S. S. Co., Honolulu, for special inclusive ings of Hilo. In this line of work the Hilo excursion rates.

Honolulu's big department store, W. W. Dimond & Co., on King St. Phone 4937. THE MID-PACIFIC 19

THE AUTOMOBILE IN HAWAII The phenomenal growth of the automo- bile industry throughout the United States is reflected in the rapid strides made by the Schuman Carriage Company in the past four years. From a comparatively small beginning the Schuman Carriage Company has grown to be the largest dealers in au- tomobiles and carriages, and all acces- sories pertaining thereto, in the Territory of Hawaii. The Schuman Carriage Company has enlarged its floor space many times, and at the present time is occupying a new con- crete building which proves a substantial addition to the automobile industry in Hawaii. The Schuman Company handle a line of cars which allows the purchaser ample scope for a choice. With the Pierce-Arrow as a high-priced leader, the Franklin, Hud- son, Oldsmobile, Studebaker, Chalmers, Overland and Ford can be found on the salesroom floor. The manufacture of farm wagons, paint- ing of automobiles, automobile tops and seat covers, occupy quite a large amount of floor space in the Schuman establishment, and is in the hands of the most competent men in that line of work to be found in the Territory.

20 THE MID-PACIFIC

Round About Honolulu

Chambers Drug Store, Fort and King Street, stands at the head for flavor and Streets, is the actual center of life and keeping quality, and is guaranteed. It is activity in Honolulu. Here at the inter- here you also get the tender meats and section of the tram lines, the shoppers, fresh vegetables of which an abundant business men, and tourists await their cars, supply is always on hand. Heilbron & chatting at the open soda fountain, that is Louis, proprietors, have built up a won- the feature of Chambers Drug Store. Here derful business until now the Metropolitan the tourist and stranger is advised as to Meat Market is the central and popular the sights of the city, and supplied with market place of Honolulu. Phone 3445. any perfumes, candies or drugs he may Honolulu is so healthy that people don't need during his stay. Chambers Drug usually die there, but when they do they Store is one of the institutions of Hono- phone in advance to Henry H. Williams, lulu. Phone No. 1291. 1146 Fort street, phone number 1408, The largest of the very fashionable and he arranges the after details. If you shops in the Alexander Young Building, are a tourist and wish to be interred in occupying the very central portion, is that your own plot on the mainland, Williams of the Hawaiian News Co. Here the will embalm you ; or he will arrange all ultra-fashionable stationery of the latest details for interment in Honolulu. Don't design is kept in stock. Every kind of leave the Paradise of the Pacific for any paper, wholesale or retail, is supplied, as other, but if you must, let your friends well as printers' and binders' supplies. talk it over with Williams. There are musical instruments of every Whatever you do, do not fail to visit kind in stock, even to organs and pianos, the wonderful Oahu Fish Market on King and the Angelus Player Piano and this Street. Early morning is the best time for concern is constantly adding new features this, when all the multi-colored fish of and new stock. The business man will Hawaiian waters are presented to view find his every need in the office supplied and every nationality of the islands is on by the Hawaiian News Co. merely on a parade inspecting. Mr. Y. Anin is tilt call over the phone, and this is true also leading spirit and founder of the Oahu of the fashionable society leader, whether Fish Market, which is a Chinese institu- her needs are for a bridge party, a dance, tion of which the city is proud. or just plain stationery. The exhibit rooms of the Hawaiian News Co. are interesting. A monument to the pluck and energy of Mr. C. K. Ai and his associates is the Love's Bakery at 1134 Nuuanu Street, City Mill Co. of which he is treasurer Phone 1431, is the bakery of Honolulu. and manager. This plant at Queen and Its auto wagons deliver each morning fresh Kekaulike Streets is one of Honolulu's from the oven, the delicious baker's bread leading enterprises, doing a flourishing and rolls consumed in Honolulu, while all lumber and mill business. the grocery stores carry the Love Bakery THE SWEET SHOP, on Hotel Street, op- crisp fresh crackers and biscuits that come posite the Alexander Young, is the from the oven daily. Love's Bakery has one reasonably priced tourist restaurant. the most complete and up to date machin- Here there is a quartette of Hawaiian ery and equipment in the territory. singers and players, and here at every "Maile" Australian butter from the hour may be enjoyed at very reasonable Metropolitan Meat Market on King prices the delicacies of the season. THE MID-PACIFIC. 21

The Honolulu Construction and Draying Company has its main offices at 65 Queen Street. This concern has recently absorbed two of the leading express and transfer companies, and has also acquired the Hcnolulu Lava Brick Company. It is making a success of its enterprises. Phone 4981.

Hustace-Peck & Co., Ltd., on Queen phone service throughout Hawaii. For a Street, Phone 2295, prepare the crushed dollar and a half, a Night Letter of twenty- rock used in the construction of the mod- five words may be sent to any part of the ern building in Hawaii. They also main- territory. Honolulu was the first city in tain their own stables and drays. Draying the world to install a house-to-house tele- in Honolulu is an important business, and phone system, and Hawaii the first country Hustace-Peck are the pioneers in this line, to commercially install wireless telegraphy. and keep drays of every size, sort and de- The City's great furniture store, that of scription for the use of those who require J. Hopp & Co., occupies a large portion of them. They also conduct a rock crusher the Lewers & Cooke Block on King St. and supply wood and coal. Here the latest styles in home and office Next to the Marconi Wireless on Fort furniture arriving constantly from San Street is the Office Supply Co., the home Francisco are displayed on several spacious of the Remington Typewriter in Hawaii, floors. Phone .No. 2111. and the Globe-Wernicke filing and book The leading music store in Hawaii is cases. Every kind of office furniture is on King and Fort Sts.—The Bergstrom kept in stock by the Office Supply Co. as Music Co. No home is complete in Hono- well as a complete line of office stationery. lulu without an ukulele, a piano and a Victor There is a repair shop for typewriters, and talking machine. The Bergstrom Music every necessary article that the man of Company, with its big store on Fort Street, business might need. Phone 3843. will provide you with these—a Chickering, With the wood that is used for building a Weber, a Kroeger for your mansion, or a in Hawaii, Allen & Robinson on Queen tiny upright Boudoir for your cottage; and Street, Phone 2105, have for generations if you are a transient it will rent you a supplied the people of Honolulu and those piano. The Bergstrom Music Company, on the other islands; also their buildings phone 2331. and paints. Their office is on Queen St., The best thing on ice in Honolulu is soda near the Inter-Island S. N. CO. Building, water. The Consolidated Soda Water and their lumber yards extend right back Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort Street, are the to the harbor front, where every kind of largest manufacturers of delightful soda hard and soft wood grown on the coast is beverages in the Territory. Aerated waters landed by the schooners that ply from cost from 35 cents a dozen bottles up. The Puget Sound. Consolidated Co. are agents for Hires Root The Mutual Telephone Co. works in Beer and put up a Kola Mint aerated water close accord with the Marconi Wireless, that is delicious, besides a score of other and controls the wireless service between flavors. Phone 2171 for a case, or try a the Hawaiian Islands, as well as the tele- bottle at any store. 22 THE MID-PACIFIC Wonderful New Zealand 1

Native New Zealanders at Rotorua.

Scenically New Zealand is the world's throughout the Dominion for the benefit wonderland. There is no other place in of the tourist, for whom she has also the world that offers such an aggrega- built splendid roads and wonderful mountain tracks. New Zealand is tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The splendidly served by the Government West Coast Sounds of New Zealand are Railways, which sell the tourist for a in every way more magnificent and awe- very low rate, a ticket that entitles him inspiring than are the fjords of Norway. to travel on any of the railways for from Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic one to two months. In the lifetime of panorama of unrivalled beauty from end a single man, (Sir James Mills of Dune- to end. Its hot springs and geysers in din, New Zealand), a New Zealand the Rotorua district on the North Island steamship company has been built up have no equal anywhere. . In this dis- that is today the fourth largest steam- trict the native Maoris still keep up ship company under the British flag, and their ancient dances or haka haka, and larger than any steamship company here may be seen the wonderfully carved owned in America, with her 100,000,000 houses of the aboriginal New Zealand- million population, or in Japan with her ers. There .are no more beautiful lakes 50,000,000 population. New Zealand is anywhere in the world than are the Cold a land of wonders, and may be reached Lakes of the South Island, nestling as they from America by the Union Steamship do among mountains that rise sheer ten Co. boats from Vancouver, San Fran- thousand feet. Among these mountains cisco or Honolulu. The Oceanic Steam- are some of the largest and most scenic ship Co. also transfers passengers from glaciers in the world. In these Southern Sydney. The Government Tourist Bu- Alps is Mt. Cook, more than twelve thou- reau has commodious offices in Auck- sand feet high. On its slopes the Govern- land and Wellington as well as the other ment has built a hotel to which there is a larger cities of New Zealand. Direct in- motor car service. formation and pamphlets may be secured New Zealand was the first country to by writing to the New Zealand Govern- perfect the government tourist bureau. ment Tourist Bureau, Wellington, New She has built hotels and rest houses Zealand.

THE MID-PACIFIC 23

New South Wales

■ •••■•■■■•■••■■• ■■•••■•■••■••••11111 1•■••••••■ The Macdonald, an arm of the Hawkesbury River.

New South Wales welcomes the tourist. golden beaches, the Blue Mountains, Jeno- The Goverment Tourist Bureau, Sydney, lan Caves and Mt. Kosciusko. gives free advice and assistance to those who want to know: what to see, where to stay, Write for literature and information to how to get there, and what to pay. You Fred C. Govers, Government Tourist should visit: Port Jackson Harbor, Sydney's Bureau, Sydney, N. S. W. 24 THE MID-PACIFIC

South Australia and Tasmania

SOUTH AUSTRALIA. TASMANIA. Tasmania is one of the finest tourist re- From San Francisco, Vancouver and sorts in the southern hemisphere, but ten from Honolulu there are two lines of fast hours' run from the Australian mainland. steamships to Sydney, Australia. The large steamers plying between Vic- toria and New Zealand call at Hobart From Sydney to Adelaide, South Aus- both ways, and there is a regular service tralia, there is a direct railway line on from Sydney to Hobart. Between Launce- which concession fares are granted tourists ston and Melbourne the fastest turbine steamer in Australia runs thrice weekly. arriving from overseas, and no visitor to Tasmania is a land of rivers, lakes and the Australian Commonwealth can afford mountains, and it is a veritable tourists' to neglect visiting the southern central state paradise. It is also a profific orchard country and has some of the finest fruit of Australia; for South Australia is the growing tracks in the world. The climate state of superb climate and unrivalled re- is cooler than the rest of Australia. sources. Adelaide, the 'Garden City of the The angling is one of the greatest at- tractions of the island. The lakes and rivers South,' is the Capital, and there is a Govern- are nearly all stocked with imported trout, ment Intelligence and Tourist Bureau, which grow to weights not reached by other where the tourist, investor, or settler is parts of Australia. The Tasmanian Gov- given accurate information, guaranteed by ernment issues a special illustrated hand- the government, and free to all. From book dealing with angling. Adelaide this Bureau conducts rail, river The Tasmanian Government deals di- rectly with the tourist. Hobart, the cap- and motor excursions to almost every part ital,—one of the most beautiful cities in the of the state. Tourists are sent or conducted world—is the headquarters of the Tasman- through the magnificent mountain and ian Government Tourist Department; and pastoral scenery of South Australia. The the oureau will arrange for transport of the government makes travel easy by a system visitor to any part of the island. A shilling of coupon tickets and facilities for caring trip to a local resort is not too small for the Government Bureati to handle, neither is a for the comfort of the tourist. Excursions tour of the whole island too big. Travel are arranged to the holiday resorts; indi- coupons are issued including both fares and viduals or parties are made familiar with accommodation if desired. the industrial resources, and the American In Hobart and in other Tasmanian cen- as well as the Britisher is made welcome if ters there are local Tourist Associations. In Launceston the Northern Tasmania he cares to make South Australia his home. Tourist Association has splendid offices. The South Australian Intelligence and The Tasmanian Government has an up- Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on to-date office in Melbourne, at 59 William King William Street, Adelaide, and the Street, next door to the New Zealand Gov- government has printed many illustrated ernment office, where guidebooks, tickets, books and pamphlets describing the scenic and information can be produced. For detailed information regarding Tas- and industrial resources of the state. A mania, either as to travel or settlement, postal card or letter to the Intelligence and enquirers should write to Mr. E. T. Em- Tourist Bureau in Adelaide will secure the mett, the Director of the Tasmanian Gov- books and information you may desire. ernment Tourism Dept., Hobart, Tasmania. THE MID-PACIFIC 17

tia

THE BUILDERS OF HONOLULU. Honolulu still relies for building ma- terial on the mainland. For many years the firm of Lewers & Cooke maintained its own line of clipper schooners that brought down lumber from Puget Sound with which to "build Hawaii." Today this firm occupies its own spacious block on King Street, where every necessity need- ed for building the home is supplied. In fact, often it is this firm that guarantees the contractor, and also assures the owner that his house will be well built and com- pleted on time. Things are done on a large scale in Hawaii; so it is that one firm 1111111181118/ undertakes to supply material from the breaking of ground until the last coat of paint is put on the completed building. A spacious and splendidly equipped hardware department is one of the features of Lewers & Cooke's establishment.

18 THE MID-PACIFIC

■•••■•■■■■••■ The Tourist's Hawaii

The Alexander Young Hotel (under same management as Moana and Seaside Hotels).

The Von Hamm-Young Co., Importers, Board of Trade has the hearty co-operation Machinery Merchants, and leading auto- of the Hilo Railway. This Railway has mobile dealers, have their offices and' store recently extended its rails thirty-two miles in the Alexander Young Building, at the along the precipitous coasts of Lapauhoehoe corner of King and Bishop Streets, and and beyond. This thirty-two mile rail trip their magnificent automobile salesroom and is one of the scenic trips of the world. The garage just in the rear, facing on Alakea Hilo Railway also extends in the opposite street. Here one may find almost any- direction to the hot springs of Puna, and a thing. Phone No. 4901. branch with the Auto Service takes the Hawaii is the Big Island. Hilo is the tourist from the steamer wharf to the edge chief port, and from Hilo excursions are of the ever-active Kilauea. made to all the points of interest. The CRATER HOTEL, Volcano Hawaii, A. T. Hilo Board of Trade has recently taken up Short, Proprietor. See Wells Fargo Ex- the matter of home promotion work and is press Co., Paradise Tours, Inter-Island developing the wonderful scenic surround- S. S. Co., Honolulu, for special inclusive ings of Hilo. In this line of work the Hilo excursion rates.

Honolulu's big department store, W. W. Dimond & Co., on King St. Phone 4937. THE MID-PACIFIC 19

THE AUTOMOBILE IN HAWAII The phenomenal growth of the automo- bile industry throughout the United States is reflected in the rapid strides made by the Schuman Carriage Company in the past four years. From a comparatively small beginning the Schuman Carriage Company has grown to be the largest dealers in au- tomobiles and carriages, and all acces- sories pertaining thereto, in the Territory of Hawaii. The Schuman Carriage Company has enlarged its floor space many times, and at the present time is occupying a new con- crete building which proves a substantial addition to the automobile industry in Hawaii. The Schuman Company handle a line of cars which allows the purchaser ample scope for a choice. With the Pierce-Arrow as a high-priced leader, the Franklin, Hud- son, Oldsmobile, Studebaker, Chalmers, Overland and Ford can be found on the salesroom floor. The manufacture of farm wagons, paint- ing of automobiles, automobile tops and seat covers, occupy quite a large amount of floor space in the Schuman establishment, and is in the hands of the most competent men in that line of work to be found in the Territory. 2() THE MID-PACIFIC

Round About Honolulu

Chambers Drug Store, Fort and King Street, stands at the head for flavor and Streets, is the actual center of life and keeping quality, and is guaranteed. It is activity in Honolulu. Here at the inter- here you also get the tender meats and section of the tram lines, the shoppers, fresh vegetables of which an abundant business men, and tourists await their cars, supply is always on hand. Heilbron & chatting at the open soda fountain, that is Louis, proprietors, have built up a won- the feature of Chambers Drug Store. Here derful business until now the Metropolitan the tourist and stranger is advised as tc, Meat Market is the central and popular the sights of the city, and supplied with market place of Honolulu. Phone 3445. any perfumes, candies or drugs he may Honolulu is so healthy that people don't need during his stay. Chambers Drug usually die there, but when they do they Store is one of the institutions of Hono- phone in advance to Henry H. Williams, lulu. Phone No. 1291. 1146 Fort street, phone number 1408, The largest of the very fashionable and he arranges the after details. If you shops in the Alexander Young Building, are a tourist and wish to be interred in occupying the very central portion, is that your own plot on the mainland, Williams of the Hawaiian News Co. Here the will embalm you ; or he will arrange all ultra-fashionable stationery of the latest details for interment in Honolulu. Don't design is kept in stock. Every kind of leave the Paradise of the Pacific for any paper, wholesale or retail, is supplied, as other, but if you must, let your friends well as printers' and binders' supplies. talk it over with Williams. There are musical instruments of every Whatever you do, do not fail to visit kind in stock, even to organs and pianos, the wonderful Oahu Fish Market on King and the Angelus Player Piano and this Street. Early morning is the best time for concern is constantly adding new features this, when all the multi-colored fish of and new stock. The business man will Hawaiian waters are presented to view find his every need in the office supplied and every nationality of the islands is on by the Hawaiian News Co. merely on a parade inspecting. Mr. Y. Anin is th, call over the phone, and this is true also leading spirit and founder of the Oahu of the fashionable society leader, whether Fish Market, which is a Chinese institu- her needs are for a bridge party, a dance, tion of which the city is proud. or just plain stationery. The exhibit rooms of the Hawaiian News Co. are interesting. A monument to the pluck and energy of Mr. C. K. Ai and his associates is the Love's Bakery at 1134 Nuuanu Street, City Mill Co. of which he is treasurer Phone 1431, is the bakery of Honolulu. and manager. This plant at Queen and Its auto wagons deliver each morning fresh Kekaulike Streets is one of Honolulu's from the oven, the delicious baker's bread leading enterprises, doing a flourishing and rolls consumed in Honolulu, while all lumber and mill business. the grocery stores carry the Love Bakery THE SWEET SHOP, on Hotel Street, op- crisp fresh crackers and biscuits that come posite the Alexander Young, is the from the oven daily. Love's Bakery has one reasonably priced tourist restaurant. the most complete and up to date machin- Here there is a quartette of Hawaiian ery and equipment in the territory. singers and players, and here at every "Maile" Australian butter from the hour may be enjoyed at very reasonable Metropolitan Meat Market on King prices the delicacies of the season. THE MID-PACIFIC 21

The Honolulu Construction and Draying Company has its main offices at 65 Queen Street. This concern has recently absorbed two of the leading express and transfer companies, and has also acquired the Hcnolulu Lava Brick Company. It is making a success of its enterprises. Phone 4981.

Hustace-Peck & Co., Ltd., on Queen phone service throughout Hawaii. For a Street, Phone 2295, prepare the crushed dollar and a half, a Night Letter of twenty- rock used in the construction of the mod- five words may be sent to any part of the ern building in Hawaii. They also main- territory. Honolulu was the first city in tain their own stables and drays. Draying the world to install a house-to-house tele- in Honolulu is an important business, and phone system, and Hawaii the first country Hustace-Peck are the pioneers in this line, to commercially install wireless telegraphy. and keep drays of every size, sort and de- The City's great furniture store, that of scription for the use of those who require J. Hopp & Co., occupies a large portion of them. They also conduct a rock crusher the Lewers & Cooke Block on King St. and supply wood and coal. Here the latest styles in home and office Next to the Marconi Wireless on Fort furniture arriving constantly from San Street is the Office Supply Co., the home Francisco are displayed on several spacious of the Remington Typewriter in Hawaii, floors. Phone No. 2111. and the Globe-Wernicke filing and book The leading music store in Hawaii is cases. Every kind of office furniture is on King and Fort Sts.—The Bergstrom kept in stock by the Office Supply Co. as Music Co. No home is complete in Hono- well as a complete line of office stationery. lulu without an ukulele, a piano and a Victor There is a repair shop for typewriters, and talking machine. The Bergstrom Music every necessary article that the man of Company, with its big store on Fort Street, business might need. Phone 3843. will provide you with these—a Chickering, With the wood that is used for building a Weber, a Kroeger for your mansion, or a in Hawaii, Allen & Robinson on Queen tiny upright Boudoir for your cottage; and Street, Phone 2105, have for generations if you are a transient it will rent you a supplied the people of Honolulu and those piano. The Bergstrom Music Company, on the other islands; also their buildings phone 2331. and paints. Their office is on Queen St., The best thing on ice in Honolulu is soda near the Inter-Island S. N. Co. Building, water. The Consolidated Soda Water and their lumber yards extend right back Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort Street, are the to the harbor front, where every kind of largest manufacturers of delightful soda hard and soft wood grown on the coast is beverages in the Territory. Aerated waters landed by the schooners that ply from cost from 35 cents a dozen bottles up. The Puget Sound. Consolidated Co. are agents for Hires Root The Mutual Telephone Co. works in Beer and put up a Kola Mint aerated water close accord with the Marconi Wireless, that is delicious, besides a score of other and controls the wireless service between flavors. Phone 2171 for a case, or try a the Hawaiian Islands, as well as the tele- bottle at any store. 22 THE MID-PACIFIC Wonderful New Zealand I I

Native New Zealanders at Rotorua.

Scenically New Zealand is the world's throughout the Dominion for the benefit wonderland. There is no other place in of the tourist, for whom she has also built splendid roads and wonderful the world that offers such an aggrega- mountain tracks. New Zealand is tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The splendidly served by the Government West Coast Sounds of New Zealand are Railways, which sell the tourist for a in every way more magnificent and awe- very low rate, a ticket that entitles him inspiring than are the fjords of Norway. to travel on any of the railways for from Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic one to two months. In the lifetime of panorama of unrivalled beauty from end a single man, (Sir James Mills of Dune- to end. . Its hot springs and geysers in din, New Zealand), a New Zealand the Rotorua district on the North Island steamship company has been built up have no equal anywhere. In this dis- that is today the fourth largest steam- trict the native Maoris still keep up ship company under the British flag, and their ancient dances or haka haka, and larger than any steamship company here may be seen the wonderfully carved owned in America, with her 100,000,000 houses of the aboriginal New Zealand- million population, or in Japan with her ers. There are no more beautiful lakes 50,000,000 population. New Zealand is anywhere in the world than are the Cold a land of wonders, and may be reached Lakes of the South Island, nestling as they from America by the Union Steamship do among mountains that rise sheer ten Co. boats from Vancouver, San Fran- thousand feet. Among these mountains cisco or Honolulu. The Oceanic Steam- are some of the largest and mpst scenic ship CO. also transfers passengers from glaciers in the world. In these Southern Sydney. The Government Tourist Bu- Alps is Mt. Cook, more than twelve thou- reau has commodious offices in Auck- sand feet high. On its slopes the Govern- land and Wellington as well as the other ment has built a hotel to which there is a larger cities of New Zealand. Direct in- motor car service. formation and pamphlets may be secured New Zealand was the first country to by writing to the New Zealand Govern- perfect the government tourist bureau. ment Tourist Bureau, Wellington, New She has built hotels and rest houses Zealand. THE MID-PACIFIC 23

New South Wales

Mi•■•••••■•••■ ••••■■•••••••■• •■■••••■ The Macdonald, an arm of the Hawkesbury River.

New South Wales welcomes the tourist. golden beaches, the Blue Mountains, Jeno- The Goverment Tourist Bureau, Sydney, lan Caves and Mt. Kosciusko. gives free advice and assistance to those who want to know: what to see, where to stay, Write for literature and information to how to get there, and what to pay. You Fred C. Govers, Government Tourist should visit: Port Jackson Harbor, Sydney's Bureau, Sydney, N. S. W. 24 THE MID-PACIFIC

South Australia and Tasmania

SOUTH AUSTRALIA. TASMANIA. Tasmania is one of the finest tourist re- From San Francisco, Vancouver and sorts in the southern hemisphere, but ten from Honolulu there are two lines of fast hours' run from the Australian mainland. steamships to Sydney, Australia. The large steamers plying between Vic- toria and New Zealand call at Hobart From Sydney to Adelaide, South Aus- both ways, and there is a regular service tralia, there is a direct railway line on from Sydney to Hobart. Between Launce- which concession fares are granted tourists ston and Melbourne the fastest turbine steamer in Australia runs thrice weekly. arriving from overseas, and no visitor to Tasmania is a land of rivers, lakes and the Australian Commonwealth can afford mountains, and it is a veritable tourists' to neglect visiting the southern central state paradise. It is also a prolific orchard country and has some of the finest fruit of Australia; for South Australia is the growing tracks in the world. The climate state of superb climate and unrivalled re- is cooler than the rest of Australia. sources. Adelaide, the 'Garden City of the The angling is one of the greatest at- South,' is the Capital, and there is a Govern- tractions of the island. The lakes and rivers are nearly all stocked with imported trout, ment Intelligence and Tourist Bureau, which grow to weights not reached by other where the tourist, investor, or settler is parts of Australia. The Tasmanian Gov- given accurate information, guaranteed by ernment issues a special illustrated hand- the government, and free to all. From book dealing with angling. Adelaide this Bureau conducts rail, river The Tasmanian Government deals di- rectly with the tourist. Hobart, the cap- and motor excursions to almost every part ital,—one of the most beautiful cities in the of the state. Tourists are sent or conducted world—is the headquarters of the Tasman- through the magnificent mountain and ian Government Tourist Department ; and pastoral scenery of South Australia. The the oureau will arrange for transport of the government makes travel easy by a system visitor to any part of the island. A shilling of coupon tickets and facilities for caring trip to a local resort is not too small for the Government Bureaui to handle, neither is a for the comfort of the tourist. Excursions tour of the whole island too big. Travel are arranged to the holiday resorts; indi- coupons are issued including both fares and viduals or parties are made familiar with accommodation if desired. the industrial resources, and the American In Hobart and in other Tasmanian cen- as well as the Britisher is made welcome if ters there are local Tourist Associations. In Launceston the Northern Tasmania he cares to make South Australia his home. Tourist. Associa.ion has splendid offices. The South Australian Intelligence and • The Tasmanian Government has an up- Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on to-date office in Melbourne, at 59 William King William Street, Adelaide, and the Street, next door to • the New Zealand Gov- government has printed many illustrated ernment office, where guidebooks, tickets, books and pamphlets describing the scenic and information can be produced. For detailed information regarding Tas- and industrial resources of the state. A mania, either as to travel or settlement, postal card or letter to the Intelligence and enquirers should write to Mr. E. T. Em- Tourist Bureau in Adelaide will secure the mett, the Director of the Tasmanian Gov- books and information you may desire. ernment Tourisr Dept.; Hobart, Tasmania. From San Francisco Around the Pacific

1

Toyo Kisen Kaisha is the largest steam- out extra cost. It is real economy to get ship company operating between San Fran- the most your money will buy. cisco, Hawaii, Japan, and the Orient. It These attractive tickets are on sale maintains fast and frequent service across at every railroad ticket office. They may the Pacific, following the "Pathway of the be bought as easily and cost no more than Sun" along the semi-tropic route. This is tickets that include much less. one of the most delightful ocean voyages In San Francisco, the Pacific Steamship in the world, as it carries the passenger Company has spacious offices at 112 over smoothest seas and, by touching at Market street, as well as agencies in every Honolulu, affords a pleasant break in the city on the Pacific Coast, and in the larger journey. The steamers of this line are cities of America. E. G. McMicken is of the most advanced types, having been the general manager in San Francisco. built especially for this service. Several hotels in San Francisco make a The fleet consists of vessels of various specialty of entertaining visitors from Ha- sizes, from the giant liners of 22,000 tons, waii and Pacific lands. The Hotel Stew- to the smaller but no less comfortable ves- art, on Geary street, just off Union Square, sels of 10,000 tons. is a new steel-concrete-brick structure, with Toyo Kisen Kaisha maintains its own 300 rooms, and 300 connecting bathrooms. agents in the principal cities of the world, The rates are $1.50 a day, with an addi- thus enabling travelers to secure definite tional cost of sixty cents for breakfast, sixty information regarding rates and sailings at cents for lunch, and one dollar for dinner. all times. The head office is in Tokyo, Japan, with This hotel is in the center of the theatre a general office in Yokohama. The San and retail districts, on car lines transferring Francisco office is on the fourth floor of to all parts of the city. The hotel motor- the Merchants National Bank Building bus meets trains and steamers. at 625 Market street, and in Honolulu it The Clift, San Francisco's likable hotel, 13 care of Castle & Cooke, Ltd. is at the corner of Geary and Taylor The Pacific Steamship Company oper- streets. Obadiah Rich is manager and this ates palatial steamers from Alaska to the means much to people from Pacific lands Mexican border. visiting San Francisco, who desire location It has arranged with all the railroads in the down-town district with perfect ser- of the United States and Canada for trips vice. The rates are right, reasonable, on along the Pacific Coast, without other cost both American and European plans. Every than unused portions of railway tickets. room has an adjoining bath. For one Should your destination be San Fran- person, European plan, $2.00 to $4.00 cisco-Oakland, you can make the trip either per day; for two, $3.50 to $6.00. Amer- through Los Angeles, using the ocean ican, plan, $5.00 a day and up. The hotel steamers from Los Angeles to San Fran- is absolutely fireproof and reservations may cisco, or else you can proceed by railroad be made by wire or mail. Frederick C. to Seattle-Tacoma-Victoria and from there Clift is president of the company. experience the delights of an ocean voyage. San Francisco's newest hotel is the Plaza, As berth and meals are included at sea, facing Union Square, Post and Stockton you will have no extra expense. streets. It has a capacity of 600 guests; 'Tis said, "Americans are always in a European plan, $1.50 to $5.00 a day; hurry," but thousands will welcome the American plan, $3.00 to $7.00 a day. There opportunity to see more cities, more of the are numerous, combination sample rooms. wonderful country in which they live, and C. A. Gonder is the manager of the Hotel to gain larger and valuable experience with- Plaza Company. The picturesque Oahu Railway. There are daily trains from Honolulu to the beautiful Haleiwa Hotel, and to Leilehua. Also combined auto and rail trips around the island through the Wahiawa pineapple fields, with a stay at Haleiwa. SI° covers all expenses of this two-day trip.

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