Rs Januz? I.Nœaœ.Jùz3-Ruxfzer Jhtr, Mardi Л3?О\ THE
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Ain ¿TT~ Ji¿¿<>m ХагиЬп PubtL-ktd ¿rs Januz? I.nœaœ.JùZ3-ruXfZer Jhtr, Mardi Л3?о\ THE MODERN TRAVELLER. POPULAR DESCRIPTION, GEOGRAPHICAL, HISTORICAL, AND TOPOGRAPHICAL, OF THE VARIOUS COUNTRIES OF THE GLOBE. SPAIN AND PORTUGAL. VOL. I. LONDON : PRINTED FOR JAMES DUNCAN : OLIVER AND BOYD, EDINBURGH; M.OGLE, GLASGOW ; AND R. M. TIMS. DUBLIN. 3- MOYESj TEMPLE PRINTING OFFICE., BOUVERIfi STREET CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. SPAIN. PAGfi BOUNDARIES • I ANCIENT GEOGRAPHY 2 MODERN DIVISIONS AND POPULATION 4 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY 7 NATURAL HISTORY 11 CHARACTER AND MANNERS OF THE SPANIARDS. 18 ROUTE FROM PERPIGNAN TO BARCELONA 47 SIEGE OF GERONA IN 1808 59 BARCELONA 75 FROM BARCELONA TO LÉRIDA 100 MONTSERRAT 101 FROM BARCELONA TO VALENCIA 1J3 MURVIEDRO (SAGUNTUM) 135 VALENCIA 143 FROM VALENCIA TO MURCIA 169 ALICANT 172 FROM VALENCIA TO SEGORBE 179 MURCIA 181 CARTHAGENA 195 FROM CARTHAGENA TO LORCA 206 FROM MURCIA TO LA MANCHA 211 iv CONTENTS. PAGE FROM LORCA TO GRANADA 212 GRANADA 219 THE ALHAMRA 232 THE GENERALIFFE 250 FROM GRANADA TO MALAGA 263 MALAGA 26S FROM GRANADA TO SAN ROQUE 274 GIBRALTAR 301 SIEGE OF GIBRALTAR IN 1782 304 ALGEZIRAS 317 FROM SAN ROQUE TO MALAGA 320 FROM ANTEQUERA TO CADIZ 321 CADIZ 331 SIEGE OF CADIZ IN 1823 341 FROM CADIZ TO SEVILLE 365 • „">, baa -Viiisma iktn£ij2'&it no fso.'i«i1 • fcni* THE MODERN TRAVELLER, ETC. ETC. SPAIN. [A kingdom lying between lat. 43° W and 35° 57' N.. and extend- • ing from long. 9° 13' W. to 3° 15' E.; bounded on the N.by France and the Bay of Biscay; on the E. and S. by the Medi terranean and the Gulf of Cadiz; on the W. by Portugal.and the Atlantic] WITH the exception, 'of Italy, Spain is the most in teresting region in Christendom; the most fertile in romantic associations, the most remarkable in national character. Were there no other distinguishing cir cumstance in its records than, the fact, that it has been twice, or rather thrice, almost completely in the military possession of foreign invaders, and yet^ has ultimately triumphed over its enemies, this 'would give to its annals a peculiar attraction. Twice has Spain been the debateable ground between Europe and Africa. Rome and Carthage contended for empire on its soil; and when the Saracens made their desperate effort for the possession of Christendom, Spain was one of the advanced positions on which they seized. The. claim, of succession to its crown has PAET i. s 2 SPAIN. arrayed contending armies from England, Germany, and France, on the Spanish territory"; and of the eventful history of the last five and twenty years, the most extraordinary and interesting portion is that which relates to the Peninsular war. The authentic annals of Spain* date from its con solidation into a Roman province under the first im perial Caesar. This was for a long time adopted by Spanish writers as their historic era, being thirty-five years earlier than that which is vulgarly assigned to the birth of our Lord. In Aragón, this continued to be in use till the year 1358; in Castile, twenty-five years later; and in Portugal, so late as 1415. The earliest known division of Spain, was into Citerior and Ulterior, Hither and Further Spain, in reference to the Iberian chain; but, soon after this, we find it divided by Roman writers into three provinces, Lusi- tania, Hispania Baetica, and Híspanla Tarraconensis. Lusitania, bounded on the north by the Douro, on the south by the Guadiana, and having for its eastern limit, a line drawn from Simancas to Puente del Arzo bispo, included the whole of Portugal arid Algarve, with the kingdom of Leon and part of Estrémadura. Báétíca (so named from the river Beetis, the Guadalquivér,) had the Guadiana for its northern and western boun dary, and for its eastern limit, a line drawn fróní Murgis or Muxácra, a village near the ancient prb- * The various derivations assigned to the name of the country, shew that nothing certain is known respecting its etymology. Thus, one ancient geographer deduces it from a King Híspanús; another from the city Hispalis (Seville), the ancient capital; á third from Gira'ita, scarcity, in supposed allusion to its sterility; and a fourth finds its origin in the Hebrew ! The country received from the Greeks the appellations of Iberia (from the river Ibems er Ebro) and Hesperia, or the west country. SPAIV. 3 raontory of Charidemus, now called Cabo de Guta, to the territory of Casiulo, which was nearly in the same situation as the modern Cazlona. It answered pretty nearly to what is now called Andalusia, comprising the kingdoms of Seville, Jaen, Cordova, and Granada, but included also a part of modern Estremadura. Hispania Tarraconensis, which received its name from the town of Tarraco (the modern Tarragona), com prehended all the hither or eastern part of Spain, answering generally to Catalonia and the kingdom of Aragon. Under the latter Roman emperors, some alterations were made in this division, and it was afterwards totally obliterated by the desolating inva sions of the country by the northern nations. The modern division of Spain results from the successive formation of distinct and independent kingdoms and principalities, on the expulsion of the Moors, between the middle of the eighth century and the end of the fifteenth. The Asturian monarchy was the germ of the Spanish greatness. The small province which it comprised, was at one time the only portion of the country unconquered by the Moors. At length, to wards the close of the fifteenth century, by the mar riage of Ferdinand, the fifth king of Aragon, with Isabella of Castile, the crowns of Asturias, Leon, Cas tile, Aragon, and Granada were united. The modern division of Spain distributes it into fourteen provinces or captain-generalships, which for the most part retain the names of kingdoms, and are in fact distinguished from each other by a striking variety of national character, as well as by a material difference in their internal government. These again have their subdivisions. According to a census made by royal authority in 1787-8, their names and respec. tive population are as follow: 4 SPAIN. - - ... - Ertcilt in- • Souls. Souls. Square Miles. i Alava • •••• 71,399-. Biscay \ Guipuzcoa 120,716\ 308,157.--.- 3,001 I Lordship of Biscay 116,0427 Kingdom of Aragon 623,303-• ••14,882 Principality of Catalonia • 814,412 12,111 Asturias • 347.776---. 3,725 •Jurisdiction of Leon 250,134-. Kingdom j- Palencia--112,514 { of Leon |j Salamanca210,380 [ 665,432-•••12,420 -Toro •• 92,8,4044 -J Kingdom of Galicia •'••• 1,345,803 16,060 Estremadura -•••• 416,992 14,478 Kingdom of Seville • •..••754,293" I :— Cordova • •••236,016 Andalusia -— Granada -•-•661,661 M,837,0;,024-.-.2 27,542 — jaen-------.177,136 ISSierr a Morena .......... 7,918 Kingdom of Murcia- • • • :.. 337,686- 7,957 -Valencia 783,084.- 7,764 —I Navarre • - • 227,322 • • : 2,475 La Mancha 206,160- • 7,620 Jurisdiction of Cuenca • -266,182 Guada- laxara • -144,370 New í — Toledo •-334,425 Castile City of Madrid • • • • • 156,672 933,865- i- -23,573 Province of Madrid 58,943 Royal desmenes of Aran- juez and Le Pardo 3,266- Jurisdiction of Avila 115,172 Burgos --465,410 Oíd Castile 74,669 Old 1 Segovia - -167,525 l^jggjgi Castile . Soria 170,565 ' ' — Valladolid 196,839 Royal desmenes ofSt. Ilde fonso and the Escurial 6,784 10,143,975 176,497 Of these, it was estimated that 478,716, or,not quite a 20th, were nobles; 276,090 servants; and SPAIN. 5 •131,747, or nearly an 80th part, ecclesiastics ; that is, upwards of 60,000 seculars, above 49,000 monks, (two- fifths were Franciscans,) and 22,300 nuns. The parishes are stated at 20,080; the convents at 3,094. The proportion of inhabitants to the square league is, in Guipuzcoa, as high as 167; in Cuenca, as low as 25 ; in the inland provinces, the average is 42; in the mari time provinces, 75. Since the time that this census was taken, the proportion is supposed to have in creased. In 1799, it was ascertained to exceed 12,000,000; the increase appearing to have taken place chiefly in the kingdom of Aragon. According to a statement published at Madrid in 1802, and -cited by Laborde, the adult population* was esti mated at not quite 10,500,000, and the propor tion of males and females was supposed to be equal. The married persons were estimated at not : quite 4,000,000; and allowing 4,000,000 only for •children, this would carry the population to between 14 and 15,000,000. ' Hassel, in his " Statislique Europeene" estimates the territorial surface at 25,145 square leagues of 25 to a degree, and the total population at 10,730,000, being 425 inhabitants to every square league; and this in a country supposed to be capable of furnishing subsistence for 78,000,000, - and which, according to the general opinion, actually contained, under the Romans, 40,000,000 of people. <f * Laborde is evidently inaccurate in mistaking this for an esti mate of the-whole population: the men are stated at 5,204,187; the .women at 5,205,692; and out of these, it is supposed that there were 3,890,660 married persons. f Laborde is disposed to reduce this estimate one half, viz. to 20 millions, though some ancient authorities carry the population of Spain under the Romans, as high as 52 millions. At the close of the fourteenth century, according to several Spanish writers, (whose statements, however, Laborde deems exaggerated,) the population was 21,700,800; viz.