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Home , New York wine

A State of By Jim Trezise

n 1975, there were 19 in New New York is a “cool climate” state in terms of growing, so the wine styles resemble those of northern Europe more than York State. Today there are 169 and California. The ability to consistently grow premium wine is I counting – fast. due to major bodies of water: Lake Erie, the , the Hudson River, and the Atlantic Ocean, Sound and Great In 1975, New York were scoffed at as sweet, “foxy,” Peconic Bay surrounding Long Island. These bodies of water, in dif- and unsophisticated. Today they are winning Gold medals in ferent ways, all act as natural temperature control, creating “micro- major international competitions. climates” that ensure consistent quality from year to year. In 1975, no self-respecting Manhattan retailer or restaurant New Yor k ’ s two largest and fastest growing wine regions, the would feature New York wines, and few would even carry Finger Lakes and Long Island, are as different as Burgundy and them. Today they are embracing them. Bordeaux. The spectacular Finger Lakes region, which physically Welcome to the NEWNew York wine industry, which bears resembles wine country along the Rhine, produces wines little resemblance to the past. rivaling the world’s best, as well as superb sparkling wines and In 2001, Swedish Hill on Cayuga in the Finger . The maritime climate of eastern Long Island pro- Lakes received the “Andre Tschelicheff Winemaker of the vides ideal conditions for and other classic red varieties, as Year” award at the San Francisco International Wi n e well as rich Chardonnays. The Lake Erie and Hudson River Competition, which included over 3,000 wines from around the regions produce a wide range of wines from traditional European, world. In 2002, Chateau LaFayette Reneau on neighboring French-American, and Native American grape varieties. Seneca Lake tied with Napa’s Gloria Ferrer as “ of the Year” at the Tasters Guild International Wine Competition. Collegial Competitors And many wines from other New York wineries are coming home with Gold and Double Gold medals New York’s wine quality has skyrocketed in recent against the world’s toughest competition. years due to two factors: collegial competitors, How did this happen? First, the State and sound science. of New York created a favorable business New York’s winemakers work together climate which has encouraged growth. very closely in order to raise the quality bar Second, we have superb climates for for everyone. growing grapes throughout New York. Along a wine trail, for example, if one winery Third, a unique blend of competition and is making bad wine, the visitors to that trail will collegiality has ensured top quality. leave with a bad impression of the entire trail – and wo n ’ t come back or recommend it to others. New York’s Two Climates The sound science comes from Cornell U n i v e r s i t y, and specifically the The 1976 Farm Winery Act was just the Vinification and Brewing Laboratory in first of many pieces of legislation which, over the Geneva directed by Dr. Thomas Henick- years, have made it easy to get into and succeed in the wine Kling, a world-renowned enologist with experience in business in New York. For example, legislation designating Germany, Australia, New Zealand, and Oregon. For the past 15 specific “wine trails” and allowing standardized highway sig- years, our organization has supported Dr. Henick-Kling’s nage has helped increase the number of winery visitors by research and the Wine Lab, which has proven to be an incredi- seven-fold in 15 years, to more than 3 million in 2001. bly valuable resource for New York’s winemakers. or comprehensive information about the New York wine indus- F tr y , visit www.n e w y o r k w i n e s . o rg . The site includes an up-to-date listing of Gold medal wines, a complete listing of all New York wineries and regional maps, press releases and newsletters, and many other features. If you would like to receive “The Wine Press”, a weekly email bulletin of news on the New York wine industry Uncork New York! and other topics, send an email to Ji m Tr e z i s e @ n y w g f . o r g with the message On Thanksgiving weekend, Copia – the American Center for Wine, Food & “Roll the Wine Press”. Jim may be The Arts – hosted an “Uncork New York” wine and food extravaganza in the heart reached at that email address, or by phone of Napa Valley. I’ve taken New York wines to Paris and London, where they are at 315-536-7442, ext. 11. Basic informa- enthusiastically accepted. But for New York wines, the toughest market in the world is… New York. tion about the industry is included below. This is no surprise. New York City is arguably the planet’s most competitive wine market. But also working against New York wines is reverse discrimination: New York Grape If it’s local, it can’t be good. & Wine Industry In San Francisco, virtually every wine list starts with California wines; in Seattle with Washington wines; and in Portland with Oregon wines. Regional ■ #3 state in total grape acreage pride at its best. Not so in New York. Even more than French, Italian, California, Australian, or any other wines, New York wines have to prove themselves in the ■ #2 grape juice producer Big Apple. ■ #3 wine producer That’s what the “New York Cuisine” program is all about. New York City restaurants and retailers are invited to celebrate the grape in September for ■ 962 vineyards covering 31,745 the month-long “New York Cuisine” program in restaurants and “Uncork New acres York” program in stores. ■ 150,000 tons annual grape harvest The recipe is simple: Take New York foods, add some New York wines, and worth $40,000,000 give this all to New York chefs to create a special “New York Cuisine” menu – appetizers, main courses, desserts, and wines – where everything on the plate and ■ 65% for grape juice, 33% wine, in the glass is from New York. 2% fresh fruit Restaurants are encouraged to give their customers a list of stores which are ■ 169 wineries, 150 established featuring New York wines through special displays, and in-store tastings. since 1976 Fortunately, New York public officials understand wine and the enormous contribution the industry makes to New York’s economy. Governor George Pataki ■ 4 major regions: Lake Erie (8), and his Agriculture Commissioner Nathan Rudgers have long been strong sup- Finger Lakes (73), Hudson River porters of the wine industry, and partners in helping it grow. The New York (28), Long Island (28) Cuisine program was made possible in part by a State matching grant. ■ 10 wine trails: Chautauqua, Senator Hillary Rodham has also been a great supporter of our indus- , Lake Ontario, try. In mid-October, she led a one-day “trade mission” to the Finger Lakes with Canandaigua, Keuka, Seneca, 50 top New York City restaurateurs, retailers, wine educators and media. A few Cayuga, Shawangunk, Dutchess, weeks before that, she hosted “New York Farm Day” in the Senate Office Long Island Building, showing her Washington colleagues that New York is a major agricul- tural state with great foods, great wines, and great restaurants. ■ Table, Sparkling, Dessert, and On November 25, the and Cabernet Franc from Anthony Road Specialty wines Wine Company on Seneca Lake were the featured wines at the International ■ 200,000,000 bottles produced Emmy Awards Celebration in Manhattan, which was telecast around the world. annually And the best part is that those New York wines were selected by a Frenchman. ■ 3,000,000 tourists, 20,000 Jim Trezise is the president of the New York Wine & Grape Foundation. employees