The Inside: Top Paris CollectionsPg. 16 RICCI’S SAMSONITE GIG/3 SAKS CASE GOES ON/3 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 29, 2007 • $2.00 List Sportswear Hue Turn Could it be time to lose the blues? Denim designers are punching up the everyday staple in an array of fun, vibrant colors. Here, Odyn’s stretch denim jeans and Champion’s cotton, polyester and Lycra spandex sports bra. Vera scarves; Girlprops earrings; Jean-Michel Cazabat shoes. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

The Hedi Days Are Over: LVMH Dumps Slimane, Van Assche Deal Near By Miles Socha PARIS — Dior Homme is bidding adieu to

N ASSISTANT: CAMERON KERSHAW; STYLED BY DAVID YASSKY DAVID STYLED BY CAMERON KERSHAW; N ASSISTANT: Hedi Slimane and is close to replacing him with Kris Van Assche, WWD has learned. Sources said the French fashion house is zeroing in on a contract with the 30-year-old Belgian designer, who cut his teeth at Slimane’s side before launching his signature brand in 2005. An announcement is expected in the next few days. It is understood Dior wants to plot a new path for its men’s wear and move on from Slimane, yet with a designer familiar with Dior Homme’s codes and See Van Assche, Page 8 PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: ANNA/FUSION; HAIR BY CHLOE AND MAKEUP BY DEBORAH ALTIZIO USING YSL, BOTH AT AARTIST LOFT; FASHIO LOFT; AARTIST USING YSL, BOTH AT ALTIZIO DEBORAH AND MAKEUP BY CHLOE ERICKSEN; MODEL: ANNA/FUSION; HAIR BY KYLE PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION This fall, denim is getting chummy with vibrant hues, giving a fresh zip ™ 6 to fashion’s favorite classic. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Dior Homme is bidding adieu to Hedi Slimane and is close to replacing 1 him with Kris Van Assche, WWD has learned. CRACKING THE CODE Samsonite has tapped Christina Ricci as the face of its new vintage- Unlocking the Confusion Surrounding Business Casual 3 inspired Fashionaire line under the Samsonite Black Label brand. A request by Saks to dismiss most of the claims against it in a suit fi led Casually speaking, dressing for today’s has a considerable level of after work obligations and 3 by International Design Concepts has been rejected. workplace can be a labor unto itself. Varying dress codes these often influence how she may dress for the day, EYE: The Hollywood crowd said goodbye to black when Ungaro’s Peter and countless interpretations of the term “business offers Kim Kitchings, director of global supply chain 4 Dundas came to Neiman’s in Beverly Hills with his colorful spring line. casual,” the most prevalent form of dress for modern planning for Cotton Incorporated. “Women are Bipartisan congressional pressure to force China to reform its currency offices, often makes wardobing for work downright multi-tasking throughout their day; they’re going 8 policies intensifi ed at a Senate Finance Committee hearing. confusing. Working women are to work, picking up the kids at wading through the confusion school, taking a class, shopping for DENIM: Wrangler is letting loose some modern rodeo spirit on London’s Carnaby Street as it charts a retail rollout in Europe. with practicality, comfort and style; groceries, dining out with friends 13 choosing tops with performance and doing other things and they BEAT: Contemporary retailer Atrium is looking for some Miami heat with finishes and an unexpected keep this in mind when getting 14 its third unit, which just opened on fashionable Collins Avenue. workwear staple, denim jeans. dressed for work.” Bolstered by stronger margins, store openings and better cost controls, According to the Cotton According to the Monitor, 17 Hennes & Mauritz said profi ts jumped 27 percent in the fi rst quarter. ™ Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor , the average female respondent Obituaries...... 19 nearly half of female respondents wears the same clothes she wears to Classifi ed Advertisements...... 18-19 defined her work place dress code work to other activities two nights as “casual” or “business casual.” a week. Shopping and dining To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Another one in five said that her were the most popular post-work [email protected], using the individual’s name. workplace has no official dress code. activities; 50 percent of female WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. “Typically, a dress code exists respondents indicated that she VOLUME 193, NO. 67. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three to maintain and promote a wore work attire to a store or additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by sense of order that is consistent a restaurant. Other activities Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive with a company’s philosophy,” cited include going out with Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human “One woman’s idea of conservative Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail says Jeannine McShane, a human friends (11 percent), seeing a Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return and appropriate may be another undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: resources consultant in Longwood, movie or performance (9 percent) SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA woman’s idea of too casual.” 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE Florida. “I think the point of or attending church services INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit — Jeannine McShane, www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new offering a business casual dress human resources consultant (6 percent). subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, code, or not defining a dress code One thing women are please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other at all, is to empower employees by allowing them to not confused about is the need for work clothing Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you dress in the way that they feel most comfortable and and they are seeking out enhanced performance do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615- 5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, productive. However, that often opens the door to features to get that extra mileage. Two out of three OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED some confusion; one woman’s idea of conservative female respondents told the Monitor that they were MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR and appropriate may be another woman’s idea of “somewhat” to “very likely” to look for work apparel DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY too casual.” that offered a wrinkle resistant feature. It appears to A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Although 68 percent of female respondents who be catching on; according to NPD Fashionworld’s work believed that their workplace dress codes AccuPanel, 20 percent of woven shirts or blouses were clearly defined, they were far less confident purchased by women in 2006 were wrinkle resistant. in the enforcement of these codes. In fact; 50 percent of From 2002 to 2006, unit sales of women’s wrinkle In Brief female respondents to the Monitor survey said that office resistant woven shirts and blouses more than doubled, dress code guidelines up 104 percent. ● BILL TO EXPAND JOB PROGRAM: Ten North Carolina Re- were “inconsistently What Defines Your Workplace Dress Code? “Consumers are publican and Democratic representatives introduced a bill enforced” or “not embracing wrinkle Wednesday that amends the Trade Adjustment Assistance enforced at all.” “That resistance for an ease program to provide automatic eligibility for textile and ap- Business Casual 34% only compounds the of care, but also for a parel workers who lose their jobs when their companies close because of foreign trade. The bill also expands the program, A Uniform 19% confusion and polished appearance,” which is administered by the Department of Labor, to include encourages some to take Casual 14% Kitchings adds. “It allows dislocated workers whose companies shift production to nations too many liberties in one to be professional yet such as China that don’t have preferential trade agreements Traditional w/ 9% their manner of dress,” Casual Day comfortable.” with the U.S. The bill increases the health care-coverage tax McShane observes. “The Traditional 5% When it comes to credit to 80 percent from 65 percent for eligible workers and point of a dress code is to feeling good, women are boosts funding authorization to $440 million from $220 million. No Dress Code 19% establish parameters, and not confused about what The current TAA authorization expires at the end of September, and Congress must reauthorize it. in the arena of business 0% 5% 10% 15% 20% 25% 30% 35% they want; seven out of casual, there’s a fairly ten female respondents ● CARD BACK AS JONES CFO: Jones Apparel Group Inc. has wide berth open to individual interpretation.” told the Monitor that they prefer to wear a pair of reinstituted Wesley R. Card as chief fi nancial offi cer. Card suc- The term “business casual” certainly means jeans rather than slacks. Another two out of three ceeds Thimio Sotos, who resigned to pursue other opportuni- different things to different women. According to respondents told the Monitor that their office dress ties. Card, 59, served as cfo from 1990 to March 2006. He will the Monitor, female respondents gave their definition codes allow denim, and nearly as many do wear denim also continue as chief operating offi cer, a post he has held since of business casual as trousers or slacks or a skirt (32 to work. “If jeans are allowed in your workplace, wear 2002. He still reports to chief executive offi cer Peter Boneparth. percent), a dress shirt (30 percent), a collared shirt (17 them, but make sure that they are neat and neither too “Wes was an exceptional cfo for Jones during the 15 years he held that position, and we are pleased to welcome him back to percent), jeans (16 percent), or something “not too tight nor too baggy,” advises McShane. that role,” Boneparth said. dressy and comfortable” (16 percent), nice or dress Cracking the business casual dress code comes shoes (8 percent) and a jacket/blazer (7 percent). down to a simple combination: remember your ● NEW STOCK MONIKER: Federated Department Stores said it “Defining business casual can be tricky for a lot obligations for the day and always err on the side will trade under the ticker symbol “M” on the New York Stock of reasons,” says Betsy Thompson, director of public of being conservative. “It may be called business Exchange beginning June 1, provided shareholders approve of relations for Talbot’s. “Women work in a wider casual, but it requires a serious approach,” concludes the company’s planned name change to Macy’s Inc. The compa- range of fields and specialties where dress codes can Thompson from Talbot’s. ny’s board said Wednesday that it will ask shareholders at the This story is one in a series of articles based on find- fi rm’s annual meeting on May 18 to approve a corporate name vary greatly. Many women have jobs that enable change to Macy’s Inc., instead of Macy’s Group Inc., as previ- them to dress differently for days at home, at the ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ ously announced. Shares of Federated have traded under the office or on the road. Finally, some women work in tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these ticker symbol “FD” since 1992. large companies where dress codes are interpreted pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it differently depending on department, responsibility relates to the American consumer and her attitudes ● ACTIVE GAINS: Michael Ashley, the founder of one of the and job function.” and behavior regarding clothing, largest U.K. sporting goods retailers, Sports Direct, has pur- Women often aren’t dressing just for the office, and appearance, fashion, fiber selection and chased a 3.14 percent stake in Adidas. Under German law, shareholding must be disclosed after ownership exceeds 3 per- that can also add to the confusion. The average woman many other timely, relevant subjects. cent. Ashley off-loaded a 43 percent stake in Sports Direct when it made its debut on the London Stock Exchange last month. WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 29, 2007 3 WWD.COM Samsonite Bags Christina Ricci for New Line By Sophia Chabbott at Decades. “This is the great irony about all of the luxury houses, whether it be Louis Vuitton or Hermès. They all do very anachronistic lug- amsonite has tapped Christina Ricci as the face of its gage. Samsonite was built on the idea of form and func- Snew Fashionaire line under the Samsonite Black tion and I thought to add an original spin.” Label brand. Silver, who is also the creative consultant for Azzaro The collection was designed in collaboration and for New Zealand-based fi rm Untouched World, said with Cameron Silver, owner of Los Angeles-based he took on the project because he is travel obsessed. vintage retailer Decades, who acts as a consultant, “It’s a natural for me because I’m a huge luggage and Samsonite creative director Quentin Mackay. collector,” he said. Fashionaire is an update of a travel and luggage line Silver has signed on to consult for Samsonite in that Samsonite released in 1968. Ricci, along with other archival projects. In the past, the company has Silver and Mackay, will host a launch event tonight partnered with collaborators like designers Marc at New York’s Gramercy Park Hotel. Ricci appears Newson and Alexander McQueen on collections in the line’s look book and global public relations that have garnered media attention — such as with campaign in photos shot by KT Auleta. McQueen’s rib cage-molded travel bag. A black-and-white fl oral print coats the 13-piece “Fashionaire, originally released in 1968, is collection of suitcases, handbags and small leather perfectly signifi cant of the vibrant, eclectic fash- goods that also includes a hat, an umbrella and a ion scene of then and now,” said Mackay. “[It] was raincoat. Retro styles like a top-handle beauty case an era when jet travel was new, very exciting and and a suitcase without wheels round out the line. an occasion for celebration and personal fl amboy- The idea is to have a vintage look coupled with mod- ance. Today we see elements of this creeping back, ern technology, such as lightweight and durable ma- with airlines introducing all business class aircraft terials and wheel technology, said Mackay. and design being a strong point of lounge, aircraft Retail prices range from $125 to $565. and hotel design. So Fashionaire is complementary “I’m the intellectual part of the collection, Christina to this and gives travelers a mobile vessel to express is the glamour,” said Silver, who counts Ricci as a client A style from Samsonite’s Fashionaire collection. their interest.”

happen to be sold, it would be up to [the] new owner.” One analyst speculated that all four titles could go for as MEMO PAD much as $100 million. — Amy Wicks Judge Turns Down Saks NEXT IN LINE: Wednesday brought another shift among FIGHTING BACK: Donatella Versace and Paul Beck plan to publishers at Condé Nast. Lee Slattery, vice president and take legal action against several newspapers following publisher of Golf for Women, was let go from her position In Chargeback Lawsuit their coverage Wednesday of the health of their and was replaced by Condé Nast Traveler associate daughter, Allegra Versace Beck. The papers are said publisher Christopher McLoughlin. Sources said Slattery By Vicki M. Young to include Italy’s Corriere della Sera and the London found out Tuesday morning of her dismissal and seemed Evening Standard. “Remarks attributed to [Donatella “upset and surprised” at the news. She addressed her NEW YORK — A Manhattan federal district court judge Versace] in certain publications in relation to Allegra’s staff shortly before group president and publishing has rejected a request by Saks Inc. to dismiss most of state of health do not in any way correspond to the director Mitchell Fox did. Fox explained the advertising the claims against it in a lawsuit filed two years ago truth,” read a statement from the designer and Beck, pages and revenue at Golf for Women weren’t where they by International Design Concepts Inc. over allegedly issued on their behalf by Gianni Versace SpA. needed to be, nor did they match the editorial quality of improper vendor allowances. The issue exploded Wednesday when the Web site the magazine. Through 2006, ad pages for the six-times- The decision by Judge Kevin Castel was handed of the U.S. celebrity program “The Insider” reported annual magazine grew 2.1 percent to 586, according to down on Tuesday. that Versace Beck had been hospitalized for an eating Publishers Information Bureau. “We’re very pleased with his decision. Our case disorder. Versace and Beck issued a statement to the Meanwhile, another former Condé vet could be goes forward and we look forward to trying this case program that clarifi ed the situation, stating the couple returning to fi ll McLoughlin’s spot at Condé Nast before a jury in a few months,” said Donald Kreindler, “wish to make it clear that their daughter, Allegra, is not Traveler. Sources said Steve DeLuca, associate publisher an attorney at Phillips Nizer, which represents IDC. at the present time a patient in a hospital of any type, at Dennis Publishing’s Maxim and former publisher A Saks spokeswoman declined comment. but is residing at her private address and her state of of Wenner Media’s Rolling Stone, is in talks about the Before the court this summer will be claims of breach health is stable.” job. — Stephanie D. Smith of contract and fraud, and the request for damages. “Our daughter, Allegra,” it continued, “has been IDC fi led its lawsuit against Saks Inc. and Saks battling anorexia, a very serious disease, for many years. MOSS’ NEW MODEL: Kate Moss won’t be the only face of Fifth Avenue in May of 2005, alleging claims for She is receiving the best medical care possible to help her clothing line, Kate Moss Topshop, when it launches breach of contract and fraud in connection with its overcome this illness and is responding well. As parents, May 1. Moss has enlisted her model pal Irina Lazareanu to chargeback and vendor allowance practices. IDC is we are doing our best to protect our daughter. However, be featured alongside her in the promotional images for the assignee of assets of Apparel Group International, due to numerous media reports, we want to let everyone the collection, which have been shot by Alistair McLellan. the licensee of Oscar de la Renta for the “Oscar de la know that we appreciate their concern for Allegra, and It won’t be the fi rst time Moss has given Lazareanu Renta” trademarks that AGI used in connection with we ask that her privacy be respected at this time. a helping hand: It was Moss who fi rst suggested that the women’s sportswear bridge collection at SFA. AGI “We ask that moral consideration be shown to the younger model, who’s known for her eye-skimming is no longer in operation, according to court papers Allegra and that she be left in peace so her recovery is chestnut bangs and sooty brown eyes, give modeling a fi led in the 2005 lawsuit, which alleged that it was not disturbed.” try. The two met when Lazareanu played drums in the “forced out of business by the actions of the Saks de- After “The Insider” broke the story, the Italian and band of Moss’ paramour Pete Doherty, Babyshambles. fendants.” Essentially, AGI defaulted on royalty pay- British papers ran with it, but did not pick up the The Topshop images will feature in-store and in a look ments required under its licensing agreements with statement from Versace and Beck. Versace and Beck book that will be sent to out to press next month. Oscar, which canceled the license. also stated they would take legal action against those Meanwhile, Topshop already is planning how to Specifi cally, the allegations are that Saks, rep- newspapers that have published “false and tendentious whip consumers into a state of frenzy prior to the line’s resenting 60 percent of AGI’s total sales, received stories and [that] strong legal action will be taken launch. In addition to broadcasting a podcast of Moss invoices from AGI from 1996 to 2003 totaling $90.2 against any further false statements or invasions into discussing the line with Topshop’s designers earlier this million for the purchase of licensed products, which Allegra’s privacy.” month, the chain will display pieces from the collection Saks accepted. The lawsuit alleged the chargebacks The 20-year-old Versace Beck started suffering hung up on rails the week before they make their debuts issued and deductions taken by Saks defendants from eating disorders after her uncle, Gianni Versace, in the Oxford Street store — tantalizingly concealed by against AGI invoices for claimed vendor allowances was shot in Miami in July 1997. Gianni Versace garment bags. — Nina Jones totaled $31.3 million, representing nearly 35 percent bequeathed 50 percent of his fashion company to his of AGI’s sales to Saks. niece. — Alessandra Ilari MOANING STONE: Joss Stone may be a In a related matter to the federal case, Judge Castel wild young thing — but not according granted Oscar its motion to intervene in the federal ac- SLIMMING DOWN?: Time Inc. has quietly to the pages of British Harper’s tion. It had fi led a state court action against IDC and been exploring the possible sale of four Bazaar. London’s Evening Standard others seeking about $1 million in royalties owed to it of its Australian magazines. In Style, newspaper reported the soul singer by AGI. The intervention allows Oscar to collect its $1 Who (a People magazine equivalent), was peeved about her cover shot for million from any damages collected by IDC, provided Practical Parenting and Bride to Be, the April issue and was complaining IDC wins in its action against Saks and there is a deter- which are under the Time Inc. South privately to friends about it. Her nose mination that Oscar is entitled to collect the $1 million. Pacifi c umbrella, could be sold, “but ring, it seems, had been airbrushed In March 2005, Saks revealed an internal investiga- not necessarily,” said a spokeswoman out of the photo, and her streaky tion involving “improper collections of vendor mark- in New York. “We’ve retained a bank purple hair was darkened to a more down allowances” and said it would pay back, or oth- to advise us on possible strategic demure shade of brown. A Harper’s erwise compensate, unnamed resources in an amount alternatives,” she said. “There are Bazaar spokeswoman would not to total $21.5 million. In addition, it restated earnings a number of potential strategic and confi rm whether the pictures had from fi scal 1999 to the third quarter of fi scal 2004 as fi nancial buyers.” Sources added that been digitally doctored. She did a result of the repayments and accounting errors on Goldman Sachs JBWere has been say, however, “We’ve had no offi cial leased departments. It was later learned the improper retained. Taking a momentary break complaint from Joss Stone or her collections were from SFA’s bridge department. from the company’s digital focus, the management. We spoke with them The disclosures also resulted in probes by the spokeswoman added that it is very and they seemed completely happy Securities and Exchange Commission and the U.S. doubtful the four titles would become with it.” A spokesman for Stone Attorney’s Offi ce in Manhattan. Those probes are still Web-only properties, “but if they do declined to comment. — Lucie Greene ongoing, legal sources said. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 29, 2007 WWD.COM True Colors The Hollywood crowd said bye-bye to black when Emanuel Ungaro’s Peter Dundas touched down to present his colorful spring collection at Neiman Marcus Beverly Hills. “Bring it on,” said Kristen Bell, dressed in head-to-toe red. “The only problem with this look is that I don’t have enough room in my purse,” though she quickly discovered she could slip her lip gloss into the pockets of her studded shift. Actress Melissa George was also delighted to discover the strapless metallic dress had pockets. “Almost everything I make has them,” Dundas told her. The designer, who was surrounded by a swirl of pretty, petite starlets like Kate Mara and Emilie de Ravin, added, “I’ve met a lot of people on this trip, but meeting them made me a lot more nervous for the show — wondering what they were thinking and if they liked it.” Raquel Welch sure did — she cornered the designer for a 15-minute tête-à-tête at the Bar Marmont after party. Marley Marley Shelton, who also wore Ungaro to her “Grindhouse” Shelton, premiere the night before, cooed, “I’m a huge fan. He does Melissa that fl oaty glamour thing so well, and you feel as tall and George and gorgeous as Nicole Kidman in those dresses.” Mara was Michele Hicks among those who popped into the after party but bowed in Ungaro. out early, saying, “I’m an 84-year-old woman stuck in a 24- Julia Restoin- year-old’s body. I love to sleep.” She must be the only one, Roitfeld in as Dundas and latecomers Dave Navarro, Michele Hicks vintage Azzedine and Becki Newton were still going strong at midnight. Alaïa with In New York, Damian Loeb, Hedi Slimane and Magnus Berger enough hipsters to fi ll up an entire L train hit the Box at the Box. on Monday night for a party celebrating V Man’s spring issue. The evening’s main event was a performance by Cecilia Dean a rock band called Bloody in Y-3 and Social, which is fronted Balenciaga. by Sienna Miller’s squeeze du jour, Jamie Burke, who models for the party’s sponsor, Calvin Klein Jeans. “There was such hype on the band I thought, I’ve got to hear him. Let’s have him at our party,” said Stephen Gan, the magazine’s editor. His partner, Cecilia Dean, the co-founder of Visionaire, put the reasons for staging Burke’s show Ginnifer a little differently. “He’s a really Goodwin in Kate good-looking model,” she laughed. Moschino Mara in “And we support really good-looking at Ungaro. Ungaro. Jamie Burke takes the stage. models in all of their endeavors.”

RED CARPET Blue Chip FLASH ake sale competition among Upper East Side yummy Bmummies is about to get a little more heated. Not that Justin Timberlake and plain old Betty Crocker was ever enough, but now kids can certain designers may bring in home-baked goodies by acclaimed pastry chef be all about bringing Jacques Torres, using his new line of baking mixes. SexyBack, what with “We were already sending fresh-baked cookies by messenger all the micromini to offi ces,” says Torres, who owns two chocolate shops in looks dotting the TriBeCa and Brooklyn. “But nothing can compare to the magic runways of late, but of the smell of freshly baked cookies right from the oven.” Julianne Moore was The chef worked with King Arthur Flour, a favorite brand happy to go a more among home cooks, to create a shelf-ready recipe close to demure route at his own. “Adapting the recipes was not diffi cult at all. The the GLAAD Media two cookies are the exact cookie recipes we make in our Awards Monday store every day,” he says, referring to the Mud Slide and night. Wearing a French Kiss cookie mixes (one for Pure Bliss Brownies is white, Swarovski- also available). All the mixes are sold on Torres’ Web site embroidered silk as well as in specialty stores. Of course, for all those Upper voile dress from East Siders, the chocolate chips Torres provides are suitably Proenza Schouler’s impressive — they’re fl at discs the size of silver dollars. fall collection, the — Emily Holt actress looked as

delicate and light as GETTING HOUSED the marabou feathers my Winehouse resonates a Shirley Bassey-like voice trimming her Deco Aout of a Suicide Girls’ body inked with tattoos. And frock. Moore kept as her soulful singles, “Rehab” and “Back to Black,” the look clean, with climb the charts, her iconoclastic, defiantly trashy style carefree, loose hair, is making an impact as well. Just as Gwen Stefani simple Yves Saint inspired a gaggle of “Gwennabes,” the brunette, 23- Laurent shoes, her own year-old Winehouse is attracting “Winos,” who flaunt subtle jewelry and a their curves in pinup-inspired clothes, red lipstick, neat red pout. And even To m ratted updos and a lot of attitude. Her sold-out show “If you’ve got it, fl aunt it” last week at The Roxy Theatre in Hollywood drew the Ford, to whom she presented likes of Courtney Love, The Strokes’ Fabrizio Moretti, Julianne the Vito Russo award, liked Bruce Willis and “Grey’s Anatomy” stars Kate Walsh and Moore the refi ned look. Which just Sara Ramirez, not to mention a legion of female fans. goes to show that just because And they picked up even more fashion direction from you have it, doesn’t mean we the singer, who paired a turquoise strapless dress with need to see it. leopard-print stilettos. — Vanessa Lawrence — Khanh T.L. Tran UNGARO PARTY PHOTOS BY TYLER BOYE; THE BOX BY STEVE EICHNER; MOORE BY STEPHEN LOVEKIN/WIREIMAGE; WINEHOUSE BY CORY DESROSIERS WINEHOUSE BY STEPHEN LOVEKIN/WIREIMAGE; STEVE EICHNER; MOORE BY THE BOX BY TYLER BOYE; PHOTOS BY UNGARO PARTY ?DJHE:K9?D=

J>;FH;C?;HEDB?D;97H;;H9;DJ;HE< 6 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 29, 2007

Hello, color. This fall, denim is getting chummy with vibrant hues, giving a fresh zip to fashion’s favorite classic. Bye-Bye, Blues

Stretch denim jeans from Indigo Six, Iron Army and Dollhouse, all worn with LNA’s cotton tanks. Shoes from J. Fenestrier, Robert Clergerie and Underground England. WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 29, 2007 7 WWD.COM

Rich & Skinny’s cotton, Tencel and Lycra spandex jeans; April 77’s cotton blazer; Obesity and Speed’s mohair tank, and Primp’s cotton dress. Colcci shoes.

Dollhouse’s stretch denim jumper and DKNY Jeans’ silk chiffon blouse. Accessory Network hat; Hue tights. BOTH AT AARTIST LOFT; FASHION ASSISTANT: CAMERON KERSHAW; STYLED BY DAVID YASSKY DAVID STYLED BY CAMERON KERSHAW; ASSISTANT: FASHION LOFT; AARTIST BOTH AT

All stretch denim jeans from Dittos with rayon turtlenecks from DKNY Jeans Juniors. D.E.P.T. hats; Report Signature shoes (left). PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODELS: THERESA, ANNA AND DIANA, ALL AT FUSION; HAIR BY CHLOE AND MAKEUP BY DEBORAH ALTIZIO USING YSL, ALTIZIO DEBORAH AND MAKEUP BY CHLOE FUSION; HAIR BY ERICKSEN; MODELS: THERESA, ANNA AND DIANA, KYLE ALL AT PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 29, 2007 WWD.COM Van Assche Near Deal for Dior Homme Design Post Continued from page one broidered around the waist of a white blouse. His con- possessing a strong knack for tailoring. Neither Dior Kris Van Assche cept is to use men’s materials for women’s clothing, and officials nor Slimane could be reached for comment he has shown his-and-hers styles side-by-side on his Wednesday. Paris runway for two seasons. The ouster of Slimane — one of luxury titan Bernard It could not be learned if Van Assche will continue Arnault’s biggest fashion talents — is bound to rever- to produce his signature brand or devote his energies berate throughout the industry, signaling stardom is exclusively to Dior Homme. no guarantee of job security and that brand owners Slimane’s departure is bound to shock many in the are not prisoners of their creative talent. The split industry, given the impact he’s had on men’s fashion, with Slimane mirrors those of Jil Sander and Helmut making skinny suits and tight, low-riding jeans the epit- Lang at their respective houses, which at the time were ome of cool for today’s young generations. He also trans- owned by Prada Group. formed Dior Homme into the must-see show of Men’s As reported in WWD Wednesday, Dior became “fed Fashion Week in Paris, drawing a Who’s Who of the art, up” with Slimane’s demands during protracted nego- music and fashion worlds. tiations to renew his contract, which expired last July. Designer Karl Lagerfeld famously shed more than Sources said control rights were the most contentious 90 pounds simply to be able to shimmy into Slimane’s issue, with Slimane, an exacting sort, determined to nail spare, graphic threads, and rock stars from Mick Jagger down even niggling details about brand strategy and to Pete Doherty have belted out tunes decked out in business plans. Since his arrival at Dior Homme, he as- Dior Homme. sembled a press department independent of the main Slimane was also given purview over men’s fragranc- fashion house and constructed a minimalist atelier — es at Dior, tapping David Lynch to direct commercials complete with a monolithic ceiling speaker — down the for Fahrenheit and conceiving a prestige skin care line road from Dior headquarters on Rue François 1er. called Dermo System as sleek and exacting as his fash- The failure to renew Slimane’s contract also scuttles ions, albeit with a more classic edge. plans for Dior to back a Hedi Slimane fashion house, An art history graduate from the Ecole du Louvre, long a dream of the designer, who was keen to branch Slimane burst onto the fashion scene in the late out into women’s wear and other lifestyle categories Nineties as the men’s wear creative director at YSL, such as home furnishings. earning standing ovations for collections that were se- Sources said Dior was willing to back a signature ductively androgynous and crackling with modern en- house, but there were wide differences over the estimat- ergy. He was a pioneer in inviting contemporary artists ed value of the Hedi Slimane brand and control rights. like Ugo Rondinone to put works in YSL stores, putting Slimane was reluctant to give up ownership of his name, his fashions in a broader cultural context. even if LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton owns the But when Gucci Group acquired YSL in 1999, companies producing the collections of its other design Slimane balked at a hierarchy that had him reporting stars, John Galliano and Marc Jacobs. to Ford. In spring 2000, he resigned from YSL to pursue Sources close to Slimane indicate he is sad to leave talks about a Gucci-backed signature collection. Prada Dior and “tried to make things work” with the luxury Group also courted Slimane to take over Jil Sander, but giant, but ultimately he was unwilling to compromise his he ultimately accepted an offer from Arnault to join in work, especially concerning a label under his own name. the rejuvenation of Dior, which was already kicking into Slimane’s next move is bound to be the subject of in- high gear with the arrival of Galliano. tense speculation, but sources suggested his goal is to From his fi rst explosive show in January 2001, at- fi nd a fi nancial backer to launch his signature brand, tended by the likes of Yves Saint Laurent, Catherine putting him in a similar position to Tom Ford, who Deneuve and Cate Blanchett, Slimane imbued Dior was shown the door after a blockbuster reign as Gucci Homme with buzz and a strong youth appeal. Detractors Group’s creative director after he and Gucci Group scoffed at his young and often painfully thin models and chief executive Domenico De Sole failed to reach new stick-to-the-ribs styles requiring a svelte fi gure and a contracts with parent PPR. bold attitude. Ford’s signature men’s wear will be unveiled next Still, his impact on fashion has been broad and many month, and he already has introduced fragrances with retailers clamored for a Slimane women’s line, since he Estée Lauder and eyewear with Italy’s Marcolin Group. BIANCHI STEFANO PHOTO BY already enjoyed a cult female following, having dressed WWD fi rst reported a stalemate in contract negotia- Van Assche worked with Slimane for seven years, both the likes of Madonna, Charlotte Rampling, Linda tions with Slimane last June, and noted at that time that at Yves Saint Laurent and Dior Homme. Known for his Evangelista and Nicole Kidman. Slimane also recently Van Assche was already among designers Dior contacted sartorial style — dashed with lighthearted and romantic made a name for himself as a photographer and fi ne art- as a possible successor. According to sources, talks with touches — he fi rst hit the fashion radar in 2005 with the ist, with his sculptures and paintings commanding hefty Van Assche reached an advanced state on the eve of launch of his signature brand, which he shows in Paris sums at the Almine Rech gallery in Paris and at key art the Dior Homme show that summer, but they suddenly and sells to retailers such as Harvey Nichols, Colette, fairs in Europe. halted. It is understood Dior considered other possible Holt Renfrew, Bon Marché and Printemps. Men’s wear represents about 10 percent of Dior’s candidates in the interim, but opted to resume exclusive Van Assche recently branched out into women’s wear, business globally, but is as high as 20 percent in Japan. talks with Van Assche. featuring such whimsical elements as an embroidered The Dior fashion house last year had sales of 731 mil- A graduate of Antwerp’s famed fashion academy, duck motif sketched by his six-year-old niece and em- lion euros, or $918.3 million at average exchange rates. Abercrombie Joining Heat on China Currency Issue Intensifi es in Congress By Kristi Ellis a record trade defi cit with China that hit has shied away from declaring China a The S&P 500 Index $232.5 billion last year. currency manipulator, and Paulson has WASHINGTON — Congressional pressure What form the legislation will take opted to pursue a “strategic economic NEW YORK — Abercrombie & Fitch will to force China to reform its currency poli- is still unclear. Several bills have been dialogue” with Chinese offi cials to prod be added to the S&P 500 Index after cies intensified Wednesday at a Senate introduced in this session, and those them into reforming their policies. Wednesday’s market close. Finance Committee hearing where gaining early traction have focused on Schumer and Graham, who testifi ed The teen apparel retailer will replace Republicans and Democrats vowed to reforms of U.S. trade remedy laws that at Wednesday’s hearing, said Paulson’s Spanish-language broadcaster Univision pass legislation this year to give U.S. man- would ease the way for American man- approach has not been effective enough Communications. Univision is being ac- ufacturers a better chance of competing ufacturers to fi le currency or subsidy and insisted the Senate will take mat- quired by a private equity fi rm in a trans- with undervalued Chinese imports. complaints against China and seek sanc- ters into its own hands and pass a bill action that is expected to be completed “China can and must do more to let its tions against its imports. this year. after Wednesday’s market close. currency appreciate and begin to allow A key focus is on a bill being drafted “I think it’s pretty clear that we’ve Replacing Abercrombie on the S&P market forces to determine its exchange by Baucus and Sens. Chuck Grassley (R., given up on the administration,” MidCap 400 is fellow apparel manufac- rate,” said the committee chairman, Sen. Iowa), Lindsey Graham (R., S.C.) and Schumer told reporters. turer Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. PVH will Max Baucus (D., Mont.), one of four sena- Charles Schumer (D., N.Y.). Schumer While declining to reveal any details be moving to the S&P MidCap 400 from tors who is collaborating on drafting a and Graham pushed a bill last year of the legislation he is helping draft, SmallCap 600. bill targeting China’s currency policies. that would have imposed a 27.5 percent Schumer said he was confi dent it would Both stocks were actively traded The committee hearing exuded a re- across-the-board tariff on Chinese im- pass. on Wednesday. Abercrombie closed solve that Congress will pass legislation ports if the Asian nation did not revalue “Our new legislation is going to work,” Wednesday at $76.19, gaining 0.36 this year aimed at prodding China to its currency by a certain deadline. he said. “It’s going to pass, and it’s going percent in trading on the New York reform its currency practices. Critics of But the two senators withdrew the bill to pass with a veto-proof majority.” Stock Exchange. Nearly 11.5 million China’s currency exchange rate charge in December at the urging of Treasury Graham pointed to the swelling trade Abercrombie shares were traded, com- that its yuan is undervalued and there- Secretary Henry Paulson Jr., the Bush defi cit with China and said it is one of pared with a three-month average volume fore lowers the price of its exports by 15 administration’s point person on China. the biggest catalysts behind the momen- of 1.7 million shares. percent to 40 percent on the world mar- The country has raised its currency tum in Congress to act. PVH gained 1.21 percent to close on ket. They claim depressing the value of by about 6.6 percent since July 2005, “You better understand this is one Wednesday at $58.69 in trading on the the yuan acts as an export subsidy, put- when it fi rst began to peg the yuan to issue where Republicans and Democrats NYSE. Nearly 4.2 million shares changed ting U.S. companies at a disadvantage a basket of currencies rather than just are together,” said Graham. “We’re going hands, compared with a three-month aver- and leading to American job losses and the dollar. The Bush administration to act because this affects all Americans.” age volume of 583,334 shares. ADVERTISEMENT

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The fur sector is one of the Italian fashion industry’s most dynamic. According to the the Italian Fur Association (AIP), 2006 alone resulted in an increase of 12 percent in fur production, and a total of $2.3 million in retail value, up 13 percent. Mifur, the international trade show for furs, skins and hides, held in Milan, has become a crucial appointment for both exhibitors and buyers. Three hundred exhibitors from all over the world fill a total of 26,000 square meters of sold-out exhibition space. Mifur offers a variety of style solutions, according to attending buyers. The results of a survey of buyers by the show organizers found that 80 percent of participants believe Milan is an important capital for industry insiders to gain a comprehensive understanding of the fur se ctor. In addition, 73 percent of those surveyed found Mifur to be essential to finding resources that satisfy important trends. Ninety percent of participants believe Mifur allows them to interface with the more significant elements of the global fur industry. The Italian fur sector seems to have evolved from consumers demading only 9FI9FE

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By Beth Wilson three sizes, constituting an inventory of about 50 total pieces, Uozumi said. CHICAGO — After building the record label Axis, in- Price points range from $105 for black lace and ternational techno DJ Jeff Mills and his wife, Yoko silver earrings from Brazilian designer Thais Franca Uozumi, are channeling their love of art and fashion to $2,170 for a shimmering hand appliqué jacket from into a new boutique here called Gamma Player. Ioannis Guia of Paris. Mills and Uozumi, who have launched pop-up Gamma Player, named after one of Mills’ composi- shops at art festivals in Barcelona and London, said tions, also carries CDs, books and men’s clothing with that success propelled them to unveil the 900-square- a rock ’n’ roll edge such as $1,100 leather pants and Atrium’s interior design brings foot black-walled boutique that opened this month. a $190 T-shirt with a guitar graphic on the back, both Miami’s scenery indoors. The shop features emerging European and Asian de- from M-ojo Risin’ of Milan. signers believed to be new to the U.S. The store, with its slate fl oor, chrome clothing The jet-setting pair, who keep residences in racks and spotlighted mannequins, represents one Chicago and Berlin, with of the higher-end bou- Mills traveling to Europe tiques on Division Street Atrium Heads South and Asia almost weekly in the Wicker Park neigh- for performances, said borhood. By Rebecca Kleinman the boutique allows them The street is home to to capitalize on relation- handfuls of eclectic inde- MIAMI BEACH — Contemporary specialty retailer Atrium is ships with friends, design- pendent retailers — with looking for some Miami heat. ers and business contacts Marc by Marc Jacobs com- The company, which also has locations in Manhattan and from across the globe. ing this September. And it Livingston, N.J., opened a 6,300-square-foot store last week Uozumi, for example, continues to expand its of- at 1931 Collins Avenue here. Sam Ben-Avraham, who owns points out an emerg- fering of restaurants, cof- Atrium and the New York boutique Esthete, and is founder and ing line called Yoshiko fee shops and boutiques. president of Project trade show, said he is committed to Miami Creation Paris designed “This street is very Beach. He has even purchased and moved into a house on by a friend. It features a emerging,” said Uozumi, Alton Road, one of the resort city’s most fashionable streets. white seashell ring set for whose store is between Ben-Avraham wants to create a retail and hospitality $270 and white rose pen- a vacant building and a compound along both sides of Collins Avenue, between The dant for $535. There also Jeff Mills and Yoko children’s shoe store set Setai, TownHouse and The Shore Club hotels. In addition to is the Berlin-based design Uozumi at Gamma Player. to open soon, along with leasing the Atrium space, he has purchased the 30,000-square- duo Firma, launching its KAREN HOYT PHOTO BY a nearby organic pizzeria. foot Graystone, which will be renovated into a boutique hotel first women’s collection “It’s matching what we’re with a restaurant, along with a third building with 20,000 with camel cotton skinny pants for $190 and a mili- trying to achieve. We’re hoping we can grow together.” square feet of retail space for about 10 shops. tary-infl uenced linen blend jacket for $405. Other Meanwhile, Uozumi, who worked at Sony Music, “Miami has changed a lot,” Ben-Avraham said. “It used to designers include Annemie Verbeke from Belgium, and Mills, who is considered instrumental in the cre- be seasonal, but now people like me are living here full-time or Anne-Valerie Hash from Paris and handbag designer ation of minimal techno music, plan to create some visiting more often.” Wendee Ou from London. buzz. “We can’t rely on foot traffi c,” she said, noting Ben-Avraham took a year to fi nd the right opportunity after Exclusivity is a key facet to the shop, which may that they will host events integrating music, art and fi nding the Lincoln Road retail district saturated and Collins only stock one item in one size or one item in up to fashion every other month. Avenue’s southern strip inconsistent because of the mix of high- and low-end retail. With the W hotel and Hotel Gansevoort also set for development on Collins Avenue, Ben-Avraham was won over by the proximity of his venture to luxurious resort properties and a high-profi le corner location with 160 feet of windows. Report Collection Expands With Contemporary “I thought about opening a store in Los Angeles or Las Vegas, but this opportunity put all that on hold,” he said, By Brian Dunn Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. Wang projecting fi rst-year sales of $5 million at the new store. “Within is based in the company’s corporate showroom in three years, sales should be on par with New York.” He did not MONTREAL — With a solid parent company and Manhattan. provide specifi cs. a proven track record for its original Report For fall, Wang has designed 120 styles, focus- Ben-Avraham felt Atrium could transfer many signature Collection men’s division, Report Collection ing on the contemporary and trendy 25- to 35- men’s and women’s contemporary brands to Miami Beach, Women has started to raise its profile south of year-old age group at a price point that he said mixing them with exclusive pieces from Europe, Australia the border. is 30 to 40 percent less expensive than designer and Japan, as well as customized items. Women’s wear buyer The Report label is the fl agship of Modextile labels. Sweaters wholesale from $65 to $105 for a Christine Lee also injects freshness into the market while still Inc., a 26-year-old fashion company based here. The cashmere blend; dresses are $60 to $95; printed supplying colors, prints and whimsy that shoppers in South fi rm initially specialized in the import and dis- jerseys, $65 to $75; woven blouses, $75 to $90; Florida typically like. tribution of exclusive men’s wear lines. Founder woven dresses, $115 to $125, and coats are The “clientele is much higher-end and more international and chief executive offi cer Henri Abitan was $135 to $185. than our Northeast customer,” Lee said. “Price points are 25 to born in Casablanca, Morocco, and studied in Similar to the spring line, Report will be 30 percent more, and I go after European and diffusion labels.” Milan before moving to Montreal with his fam- fi lled with basics for fall, with a vintage touch She’s pleased with exclusives from Humanoid’s collection ily in 1969. He launched the Report Collection and fl air. “Leggings will continue to be strong, of neutral, minimal basics, such as long tunics in cotton men’s wear division in 1999 as a sportswear but with a slightly different silhouette, angora blends retailing for $180 to $395; Michiko Koshino’s line available in specialty and department more airy on top and narrower on the deconstructed fashion pieces in mixed fabrics for $295 to stores across the U.S., Canada, Europe and bottom,” Wang said. $395, and Elissa Coleman’s camisole and tube dresses in scarf Latin America. The bulk of the line is made in prints with beads and fringe for $395 to $595. Saturated lines About 70 percent of Report’s men’s col- China, with a few select higher- in South Florida such as Dolce & Gabbana are substituted with lection is sold in the U.S., where it has end pieces produced in Italy and items like CNC Costume National’s minidress in black stretch more than 1,000 accounts, said marketing New York. silk georgette with a lace bodice for $595. manager Alexandre Abitan, Henri’s son. “The interesting thing is, “I can’t believe how accessories really took off in Miami, too,” Another 20 percent is sold in Canada and the collection has a European Lee said of bestsellers such as Anne Valerie Hash’s shoulder the remaining 10 percent in Europe and fl air and fl avor to it due to our handbags in pink or gray washed leather with ruffl es for $1,295 Latin America. merchandiser’s background and and shoes by Alexander McQueen, Casadei and Jean-Michel The label is banking on its European due to our international distribu- Cazabat. “The category makes up 35 percent of inventory.” flair and competitive pricing to see tion,” Alexandre Abitan said. “A lot of Ben-Avraham also has plunged into his new territory Report Collection Women clone those American brands have trouble pen- with beach-chic decor and an only-in-Miami Beach annex of numbers. It already has a corporate etrating the European market and sundresses, beach bags and sunglasses that has a separate showroom in New York and sales rep- vice versa. As a Canadian company, we street entrance. Three other departments showcase women’s, resentatives in Atlanta, Chicago, Los have a North American way of thinking men’s, accessories and shoes. With the help of DJs and Angeles, Dallas and, more recently, in terms of fi tting, sizing and market- extended hours — closing at 11 p.m. on weeknights and Philadelphia. In addition, the spring ability, but our designing is very much midnight on weekends — Ben-Avraham hopes to lure club goers collection is in 250 U.S. doors and the influenced by Europe. That’s what lining up for nearby Rok Bar and Mynt. company is targeting another 250 for the makes us competitive on an interna- “The store’s going to be like a party, with all sorts of women’s fall collection. tional scale.” events,” he said. Report also has about 350 customers Retailer Mark Shale of Chicago is car- As for the decor, a trendy lounge or spa effect is portrayed in in Europe for its men’s wear and plans rying the line this spring after buyer Beth river rocks, rows of palm trees and other potted tropical plants. to target them for the fall women’s col- Manning spotted it at the last Fashion More than 60 mannequins model all of the store’s hottest looks. lection. The Continent is served by Coterie in February. Ben-Avraham said he enjoyed picking out fun surfaces like Report Collection SL in Barcelona. “I purchased it based on their sepa- pebbled walls in sea-foam green for the dressing room area, The label’s vice president of prod- rates,’’ Manning said. “We’re carrying jack- iridescent Bisazza tiles in a Baroque pattern that cover walls uct development for women, Marc Report ets for $278, which is an outstanding price and giant wave built-ins like glittery seashells. The original Benillouche, is based in Paris. Collection’s point, along with a striped skirt [$178], terrazzo fl oor’s wave pattern is reminiscent of Rio’s famed This spring marks the first full jersey dress. top [$132] and three-button high-waisted patterned promenades, and the bleached-wood ceiling slats and collection of Report Women by de- skirt [$168]. The line is contemporary and wicker-basket shelving is an ode to the Hamptons. signer Bryan Wang, a graduate of the trend-right without being over-the-top.” “We wanted to bring Miami’s beautiful scenery inside,” he said. WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 29, 2007 15 WWD.COM

a role, but so far she isn’t involved in the company. As for her are letting each of them select whatever strikes her fancy coming on board, there’s nothing new to report.” from the new collection as a freebie. Cuomo was among the Amancio Ortega is the richest man in Spain with an attendees who took advantage of Saks’ extended store hours, Fashion Scoops estimated net worth of 14 billion euros, or $18.7 billion pausing to check out the ballet fl ats en route to the party. at current exchange. He’s known as a hands-on boss who GET KNOTTED: Jean-Paul Knott is the latest designer to have been eschews an offi ce at Inditex headquarters, preferring to sit in JOINING THE PACK: New York-based specialty store Intermix tapped by revived Italian house an open-plan fl oor with his executive team. will launch its fi rst Los Angeles location in the city’s hotbed Cerruti, following Nicolas Andreas of specialty retail, Robertson Boulevard. The retailer will take Taralis’ appointment as the house’s LEYMARIE ON THE PROWL: “C’est la vie,” said Guy Leymarie of over a 5,000-square-foot space now occupied by Harari, creative director in August. Knott, Alyce Alston’s exit from De Beers. Leymarie, chief executive but has yet to confi rm an opening date. The announcement formerly at Louis Féraud, will head of De Beers Diamond Jewelers Ltd. — formerly known as De has ruffl ed the feathers of Kitson owner Fraser Ross, who up the brand’s men’s and women’s Beers LV — said he soon would begin looking for Alston’s said, “They broke the balance [between West Coast and diffusion line, 1881, named after replacement. Alston will quit her post as ceo of De Beers East Coast].” Ross seems to have forgotten that infl uential the Cerruti family’s founding textiles North America at the end of the month to join Reader’s Digest Robertson boutique Curve set up shop in New York last business. “The line will embody Association in an executive position. Leymarie said he was month and that New York specialty store Dolce Vita arrived on elegance, simplicity and refi nement “very confi dent” the current in-house team would hold down Melrose Place in September. in harmony with [Taralis’] vision,” the fort in the meantime and push the diamond jeweler’s U.S. Nicolas Andreas Taralis said Knott. business forward. “It’s going to take awhile, because it’s never WEST COAST HONORS: Zac Posen, Parisian jewelry designer easy to fi nd the right person,” said Leymarie. “But we’re and Yves Saint Laurent muse Loulou de la Falaise and DOHERTY TO EXIT BURBERRY: Pat Doherty, Burberry’s senior already thinking about whom we want, and I’m positive.” Washington Post fashion reporter Robin Givhan, the 2006 vice president, marketing worldwide, plans to leave her post Leymarie added that Alston had a “tremendous” amount to Pulitzer Prize winner for criticism, are the honorees at next later this year, according to industry sources. Doherty has offer, and that she’d done a “very good job” for him. month’s fashion school graduation from San Francisco’s been with the company since March 2000 and was a close Academy of Art University. Each will receive an honorary colleague of Rose Marie Bravo, who stepped down as chief PLATINUM GIFTS: At a Badgley Mischka Platinum Sportswear doctorate of humane letters, which Alexander McQueen executive last summer. Prior to joining Burberry, Doherty launch party at Saks Fifth Avenue last week, the models received last year from the university and with which Vivienne served as vice president, marketing/creative, for Saks Fifth did their jobs showing off spring styles. But even more Westwood was honored earlier this month when in town to Avenue from 1992 to 2000, and as managing editor of impressive were the many socialites wearing the latest looks. open her exhibit at the de Young Museum. Posen will attend J. Crew between 1983 and 1992. She began her career Cristina Greeven Cuomo, Gillian Hearst-Shaw, Tinsley Mortimer, with his mom and company chief executive offi cer, Susan. at Vogue. A source close to Doherty said she is not leaving Jennifer Creel, Muffi e Potter Aston and the rest of the gang to join another company, she’s simply ready to move on. were rewarded for their informal modeling. The designers BIDDING FRENZY: San Francisco Junior Leaguers at their Doherty was traveling Wednesday and could not be reached annual charity fashion show and auction on Saturday found for comment. A Burberry spokeswoman declined comment. James Mischka no shortage of bidders for two tickets to the spring 2008 Doherty’s departure follows that of another longtime Bravo and Mark Badgley Ungaro show during Paris Fashion Week in September. The colleague, Stanley Tucker, the brand’s senior vice president of passes were donated by Ungaro owners and San Franciscans men’s wear worldwide, who left the company in September. Asim and Isha Abdullah, and with a week in a well-appointed Left Bank apartment, went for $15,000 to Gary and Sheila THE HEIRESS: Rumors are fl ying — not for the fi rst time — that Peace. Since 1926, the JL fashion show has been a rite of Inditex founder and chairman Amancio Ortega, 71, is getting spring on Nob Hill, and this year the event at the Fairmont ready to hand over the reins to his 23-year-old daughter, Marta raised more than $500,000 for underprivileged children. Ortega Pérez. She is an economics graduate, an accomplished Leaguers were the models, outfi tted by Macy’s for the 19th equestrian and almost as socially shy as her father. A year. “We’re oversold,” a celebratory Catherine Hutton, fashion spokesman for the world’s second-largest apparel retailer, show chair, said at a pre-dinner reception in the penthouse whose chains include Zara, declined comment except to say: Swig suite. There was still a seat left for Paul Pelosi Jr., son of “The information did not come from our offi ce. We don’t have House Speaker Nancy, who arrived late after stopping by the anything to say. Logically [as Ortega’s daughter], she’ll have Gettys’ for a Bob Woodruff book signing.

DOO-RI CHUNG, FASHION FUND FASHION FUND WINNER, 2006 ESTABLISHED TO PROVIDE FINANCIAL AWARDS AND BUSINESS MENTORING TO EMERGING FASHION DESIGNERS

The CFDA/VOGUE FASHION FUND helps emerging American designers pursue their design and business plans. In addition to grants of $200,000 to the winner and $50,000 each to the two runners-up, the award includes a yearlong mentorship from industry professionals whose business expertise is tailored to the designers’ needs and future goals.

TO BE ELIGIBLE AN APPLICANT MUST: • Be a designer of demonstrable • Have professional staff, paid applicant’s design career, talent; i.e., have garnered or volunteer, that can devote by the due date; substantial (and recent) the time and effort required to • Submit a complete and editorial coverage and have accomplish the stated aims acceptable award application support (orders) from top of the applicant’s design and portfolio presentation retailers; career plans; by the due date. • Be American or have • Submit an Indication of established a primary design Interest form, accompanied Interested and eligible designers business in the United States; by a 350-word biographical should contact Katie Campion • Be in business for a minimum statement, which should at (212) 302-1821, x112, or of two years; include a summary of the [email protected].

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16 SOURCE: STYLE.COM;PAGE VIEWTALLIES FIRST12DAYS AREFORTHE COLLECTIONSWEREPOSTEDONLINE The 10 The most-viewedfall2007Paris collectionsranked byStyle.com. We’ll Always Have Paris WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH29,2007 8 6 9 4 7 5 3 2 1 WWD skirts. ruffl fl Pickford inthedesigner’s rankings. Theshowrefl force —itpaidoff, asthecollectionrosesixslotsin signature collection,”notinghistheatricswerebackinfull WWD deemedJohnGalliano’sfalllineupa“blockbuster Page views: JOHN GALLIANO bold creativerisksthisfarintohiscareer,” saidWWD. “One mustadmireMcQueenforcontinuingtotakesuch —alldoneinthedarkestofpalettes. pointed protrusions featured stiffverticalarcsinbackandothersrevealed shapes.Somedresses McQueen offeredshort,structured Working withthethemeof“SalemWitch Trials,” Alexander Page views: ALEXANDER MCQUEEN impressive fi and leathertocrocfur. Thecollectionmovedup an He alsoplayedwithavarietyofmaterials,fromsilk, suede bustier dresses,slimsuits,trapezecoatsandeveningwear. fall—hewentheavyonembellishments his Dior’s John Gallianofocusedonthesensual,exoticwoman for Page views: CHRISTIAN DIOR coated sheepskinandembossedfelt.” bonanza,” saidWWD,including“quiltedpatents,plastic- palette. Asforthehandbags,“Jacobs offeredamonogrammed jackets anddivinepartydresses—alldoneupinarich sent outchicpullovers,skirtswithfeathersatthehem,belted Offering adiverse,yetlow-keylineupforfall,MarcJacobs Page views: LOUIS VUITTON wearable collectionGhesquièrehaseverdone,”saidWWD. and texturedcoats.“Itaddeduptothemostcomplete and jackets,confettitweeds spicier frocks,liketheshrunken woman. Butinadditiontohisunderstatedpieces,heshowed tohisfall Balenciaga’s NicolasGhesquièrenoted,referring “It’s thegirlonstreetwithherjacket,pants,scarf,” Page views: BALENCIAGA functional boots,andfocusedonknee-lengthdresses. He pairedshortcoatswithjeansandskirtsfl stocking caps,penguinsweatersandevensomeiceskates. his runway, packedthecollectionwithtweeds, Lagerfeld Chanel.WithLagerfeld’s fallensnowasafl Nabbing thetopspotonceagainthisseasonisKarl Page views: CHANEL evening, heofferedshapely feathered gowns. zippersand overlays.Forjersey knitscutwithcurved shapeswithlayeredlooksin moodygrays,including softened Theyskens focusedlessonstricttailoringand moreon emerged fromoutofnowheretositamongthe top10. Olivier Theyskens’debutforRicciwasahit:The collection Page views: NINA RICCI emphasized volumewithinherblazersandgiant fl colors, withtheoccasionalblastofredorhotpink.Shealso wools, quiltymetallicsandnylontweeds,mostly inneutral with hersignaturelineinMilan.Shesentoutsturdy Miuccia Pradacontinuedtorevisittheclassicsshe showed Page views: MIU intoruffl were trussed sheaths spilledintosweeping,painterlycollars.Dresses did soeffortlessly. WWDsaidofhisusedetailing, “Silk pieces —likeexposedzipperswithwashedsilk and season. Thedesignermatchededgyfrockswithsofter It wasmoreofatoned-downfallforAlberElbazthis Page views: LANVIN aggressive farewithhisheavyfursandtexturedfrocks. accents.Healsoshowedmore embellished withmirrored edgy moodsforfall,sendingoutartsyminisandshifts waysandheadedintobrooding and sweet andcharming Melim AnderssonventuredawayfromPhoebePhilo’s It wasallaboutanewattitudeinthehouseofChloé. Paulo Page views: CHLOE es. Eveningrevealedelaboratelybeadedbias-cut gowns. ve spotsfromlastseason’srankings. List 2,190,338 1,661,433 1,800,483 2,091,627 2,322,594 2,662,039 1,373,090 1,544,475 1,618,440 1,851,314 es thatscallopeddownthespine.” ected hints of Gustav Klimt and Mary ected hintsofGustavKlimtandMary oral embroideries and cascading oral embroideriesandcascading oor covering to oor coveringto at, at, ared ared 18 17 12 13 19 15 16 14 20 — million pageviewsonStyle.com,whichwasa58percentjumpoverlastyear. and Balenciaga.DuringtheeightdaysofParis Fashion Week, therewere71 Yohji Yamamoto, Viktor &Rolf, NinaRicci,JohnGalliano, MiuMiu,Lanvin Cecily fashion statements,”WWDreported.StandoutshowsincludedthoseofDior, tailoring, innovativeknitsandstrongly individualistic,yetstill verysalable, Retailers alsonotedtheParis season“sparkedwithvividcolors,expert presentations andintheclothes.We’reHall buyingmoreandoutofParis.” fashion directoratCanada’sHoltRenfrew. wasexcitementinthe “There delighted buyersandpressalike.“It’sbeenbrilliant,”saidBarbaraAtkin, In perhaps theperfectendtolongfallseason,Paris Fashion Week 11 The twosilkdresses—onepink,indigowereperfection. Evening sawfl overturtlenecksandaracycroccoat. jumper-style shifts announcement togive)sentoutsleek,no-nonsensepinstripes, ready-to-wear show, thedesigner(whostatedhehadno Amid speculationthatthiswaspossiblyValentino’s last Page views: VALENTINO dresses. ofribbed,fl the form chunky knitsandjumpsuits.Herplayfulsideemergedin jackets andcapeswerewellreceived,asherbig fallcollection.Hervolumizedswingy coats, McCartney’s “Sophistication withspunk,”WWDcalledStella Page views: MCCARTNEY STELLA out) —doneupinshearling,suedeandcrocstoletheshow. bags (includingthegiantBirkinthatGaultier himselfbrought trenchcoats, tailoredleathersandcable-knitdresses.Andthe Gaultier showedthemoreelegantsidetofall,revealingpolished leather pieces,zipperedjacketsandskinnypants,JeanPaul showstartedoffwithbikerbabesin Though theHermès Page views: HERMES and feathers. crowd-pleaser washisblackdressembroidered withpearls short bustierfrocksandslinkycocktaildresses. Adefi revealed hisdarkersideforfallwithvinylleather minis, designer ElieSaab Edging intothetop20,Beirut-based Page views: ELIE SAAB aswell. of delicatepinksilkgownshittherunway complete withbrassbuttonsandoversizecollars.Dresses tailored piecessuchassailorpants,suitsandpeacoats, in previousseasons,RiccardoTiscishowedbeautifully Leaving behindthepretensionthathadplaguedhim Page views: GIVENCHY coatdress andvelvetybustierwereplentygirlish. course. Butthecozyknits,embroideredchiffon, metallic mixed withwoolcoatsandlayeredknits—allinblack,of out studdedboots,widebeltsandwildlyfringedfurcollars “Christian Lacroix,punkrocker?”WWDasked.Hesent Page views: CHRISTIAN LACROIX hems andplacingmosaic-liketexturesontohisdresses. jackets. Heplayedwithembellishments,too,byembroidering dresses andskirtsmixedwithsilkanoraksathletic strong woman,”whichexplainsthefabuloussari-inspired “elegant sportswearmixedwithanIndianinfl Dries Van Noten’sdescriptionofhisfallcollectionwas Page views: DRIES VAN NOTEN fox, whileveeringtowardsexywithhissequined crochets. with foxtailsandvolumizedhistartancoatsevenmore lace ontherunway. Hethenspicedupsilkhuntingjackets — heworkedwithplaids,boiledwoolsandblackScottish No oneexpectedJeanPaul Celticrompforfall Gaultier’s Page views: JEAN PAUL GAULTIER long glovesandplentyoftexturemetallics. in stifffabrics.Pieceswereaccessorizedbyribbedtights, beautiful sackdresses,severejumpsuitsandfullerjackets said WWD.Working withamostly blackpalette,heoffered “Wow! atYvesSaintLaurent,” StefanoPilatihasarrived Page views: YVES SAINTLAURENT with littlejacketsandembroideredshirtdresses. WWD said.Favorites includedthesmart suits,croppedpants show real,evenlow-keyclotheswithin anoutrageouscontext,” ableto complete withlightingandspeakers.Still,theduo“was around individuality—eachmodelwasherownfashionshow, Viktor HorstingandRolfSnoeren’sviewonfallcentered Page views: &ROLF VIKTOR ashy dressescontainingruffl 1,283,338 1,292,049 1,309,412 842,399 873,835 885,040 907,121 924,788 1,267,296 1,188,646 at-knit slouchysweatersoverlittle

es and lace overlays. es andlaceoverlays. uence for a uence fora nite nite WWD.COM WWD.COM

PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 29, 2007 17 WWD.COM Bond No. 9 Pays Tribute to Bryant Park By Michelle Edgar beginning in May. Bryant Park is Bond No. 9’s 28th scent and could make Donatella Goes to London iche fragrance house Bond No. 9 is honoring the up to $2 million in fi rst-year sales, according to Rahme. LONDON — London experienced some Milan-style Nlong-time host of New York’s fashion week with a Bryant Park will retail at $185 for a 3.4-oz. bottle and glam Tuesday when Donatella Versace swept into new scent for women called Bryant Park. $125 for a 1.7-oz. bottle. The scent will also be available town to promote the fashion house’s new signature “We wanted to immortalize it and make it a souvenir for $45 for 1 oz. in a spray fl acon. It will be sold at Bond fragrance. — a remembrance of fashion week No. 9’s four New York boutiques, in “I do love London,” murmured the diminutive designer being held there for so many years,” 27 Saks Fifth Avenue doors and in as she surveyed the city from the penthouse suite at The said Laurice Rahme, owner and about a dozen boutiques and spas Dorchester hotel, where she hosted a cocktail party. founder of Bond No. 9. BEAUTY BEAT worldwide including the U.K., Hong It was a moment of peace before a media storm broke With a “vintage Pucci-esque” bot- Kong and Dubai. The fragrance will later that night regarding the health of Versace’s daugh- tle featuring swirls of pink, lavender and black on a white also be merchandised on Bond No. 9’s e-commerce Web ter, Allegra. (See related story, page 3.) background refl ecting silk textiles of the late Fifties and site bondno9.com, which launched last summer. And London sure loved her. Donatella-mania swept Sixties, the packaging is just as daring as the fra- A monthlong preview of the fragrance kicked Harrods earlier that day when she showed up to sign grance itself, according to Rahme. off during fashion week last month. According bottles of the scent. “I didn’t want to create a discreet scent but to Rahme, Bond No. 9 distributed 10,000 sam- “I couldn’t believe when I heard she was coming,” something that was more outgoing and forward that ples of the fragrance during the week’s shows said 20-year-old fashion student Jayne Hemsley. “I’m a could be worn from day to night,” said Rahme. “The and events. big fan of Versace, obviously.” juice is just as gutsy as the bottle. It’s The company also broke a print adver- “I’m a big fan of her clothes and she’s amazingly noisy and loud like fashion week.” tising campaign in The New York Times beautiful,” said 16-year-old Michael Matic, from Copen- Launching in the U.S. this month, last month, which will be followed by ads hagen who was in London on vacation. “It’s an honor to Bryant Park is a “rose patchouli” scent. in W magazine in April and May. In ad- meet her.” Bond No. 9’s last fragrance, West Side, was dition, Saks Fifth Avenue’s catalogue fea- “I’m overwhelmed by the amount of people who a “gourmand rose.” Rahme decided to create tured a two-page scented insert of Bryant came today,” said Versace as curious shoppers strained a series of rose fragrances because the “rose Park, and more than 60,000 samples will be to snap pictures with mobile phones. “The people who trend” had become increasingly popular distributed through the retailer’s stores be- come are always happy to see me. I always ask myself among younger consumers. Rahme added ginning this month. why they like me so much.” that she’s considering a “spicy fresh rose” There are also plans to open three more — Brid Costello scent for the series’ next fragrance. Bond No. 9 boutiques in Manhattan’s “[Rose] is a symbol of femininity,” said Harlem, Chelsea and Wall Street neigh- Rahme. “There are so many twists and borhoods by the end of the year. A second interpretations you can do on the rose. Bond No. 9 boutique opened in Dubai, Rosinoer Named to Clarins Board Since niche perfumery houses started and the company is looking to enter new PARIS — Serge Rosinoer has been named chairman of reintroducing the scent, it has attracted a markets in Spain, Switzerland and Japan, Groupe Clarins’ advisory board. He succeeds Jacques much younger consumer. When we saw how The Bryant Park fragrance. according to Rahme. Courtins-Clarins, the French beauty fi rm’s founder, who West Side sold out, we realized it was safe to Rahme projects the fi rm will reach $30 died on March 22. do another rose.” million in total revenue — 67 percent of which is expect- Rosinoer has been a member of the company’s ad- Created by Michel Almairac of Robertet, Bryant ed to be domestic — by yearend. She also expects a 50 visory board since 2000. He has held numerous roles Park features top notes of lily of the valley, rhubarb percent increase in export business. within Clarins’ management board, most recently act- and pink pepper; middle notes of rose and patchouli, Rahme won’t be stopping there, though. This fall, the ing as its chairman. and base notes of raspberry and amber. The fragrance company plans to enter the bath and body category with Before joining Clarins in 1978, he was chief executive will roll out internationally in Bond No. 9’s 12 markets a launch of body oils, creams and lotions. offi cer of Max Factor Europe. Sales Gain, Margins Boost H&M Profits By Emilie Marsh olstered by stronger margins as well as store openings Band better cost controls, Sweden’s Hennes & Mauritz on Wednesday said profits jumped 27 percent in the first quarter. Profi ts for the three months ended Feb. 28 rose to 3.41 bil- lion Swedish kronor, or $491 million, from 2.68 billion Swedish kronor, or $479.2 million, last year. Sales for the quarter advanced 11 percent to 16.77 billion kronor, or $2.41 billion, from 15.07 billion kronor, or $1.93 bil- lion, a year ago. Meanwhile, in February, sales rose 15 percent year-on-year in local currencies. Excluding the impact of currency exchange, sales at the Stockholm-based fi rm improved 16 percent, while sales in com- parable stores increased 5 percent. Dollar fi gures have been converted from the Swedish kronor at average exchange rates for the respective periods. “We are very pleased,” said Nils Vinge, H&M’s head of investor relations, during a conference call Wednesday. Vinge said sales were “strong in all markets.” In the U.S., local currency sales increased 13 percent to 1.19 billion kronor, or $171.3 million. Vinge added that higher gross margins, which increased by 2.4 percent, were due to a lower exchange rate between the dollar and kronor, a more effi cient buying process and fewer price reductions. According to the fi rm, sales of the extended footwear line, delivered to 200 select stores, have “started very well.” During the fi rst quarter, H&M opened nine doors and closed three, bringing the total store count to 1,351 at the end of February, compared with 1,196 at the same time last year. H&M said it plans to open 75 stores in the second quarter and close three. Meanwhile, executives lauded the retailer’s Hong Kong fl ag- ship that opened two weeks ago. “The fi rst Hong Kong fl agship has exceeded our expectations so far,” said Vinge, also noting that an Athens fl agship bows today. The fi rm said Madonna’s collaboration collection will be sure to drive sales in the sec- ond quarter. Kylie Minogue will help H&M celebrate its fi rst store in Shanghai. The pop star is slated to do a musical performance, although not a full concert, at the April 11 event. Minogue is the muse of H&M’s new beachwear line: H&M Loves Kylie. Additional stores for the fi rm’s more expensive Collection of Style, or COS, brand are planned for Europe, bringing the total COS store count to 10 this year. Shares in the fi rm dipped 1.7 percent to 398 kronor or $57.30. 18 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 29, 2007 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

SOHO Designer Jewelry Brand for sale Wholesale/Mfg.in Brooklyn, Retail in Prime Loc. Soho. Very low monthly. 10 years in Biz. Great Opportunity. ASSOCIATE DESIGNER SHIPPING DEPT DESIGNER Only $320K Owner: 646-549-2593 and DESIGNER Girls 4/16 Jr. driven import sprtswr co Apparel Co. seeks exp’d indiv. seeks talented designer with min 5 Showrooms & Lofts Multi-divisional mfr. looking for a with good communication yrs exp. Proficient in Illust req’d to BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS design knit/woven line for mass mkt Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Designer & Associate Designer who skills for order entry, accts. Responsible from concept thru ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 specialize in daytime, evening production. Great environment. Email picking, invoicing and EDI. resume to: [email protected] TECHNICAL DESIGNER dresses, private label developments 646-460-8188 FREELANCER - 14 years experience and licensing programs. Must Fax resume Excel, Word, Illustrator, Photoshop DESIGNER Call: 646-942-6754 PLANNER have minimum 6 years experience. Needed for a well est’d women’s private E-mail: [email protected] Fax resume to HR: (212) 898-1211 label sportswear company. Candidate will be responsible for all aspects of Walmart Specialist design, as well as working w/ buyers in Req. 1-2 yrs exp. Walmart showroom. Must be detailed oriented, DESIGNER - ASSOCIATE organized & have excellent follow-up (Retail Link) exp necessary. DESIGN ASSISTANT skills. Illustrator or Photoshop is re- Fast paced NYC apparel company WOMENS CASUAL SPORTSWEAR- Strong retail math skills and CONTEMPORARY/MISSY (3YRS+) quired. Must have 3-4 years experience. seeking a high energy, creative indi- Fax resume to: 212-730-2259 work accuracy. Assist the vidual. Must have 1-2 years experience We are looking for talented, inspiring, & Director of Planning to with a degree in fashion design. Must organized candidates w/excellent computer China Manufacturer skills in Photoshop & Illustrator. Must have Designer Production and Sampling; Any styles; create corporate reports have the knowledge of the following programs: Illustrator CS2 or 9.0, CAD skills in technical drawing/specs, color- SENIOR BAG DESIGNER Excellent in quality, delivery & price. using mathematical formulas ing, rendering & board presentation. Must Tel(646) 322-7139/[email protected] Photoshop, Microsoft Outlook & Excel. Brooklyn Industries seeks Senior Bag BOOKKEEPER F/C in Excel. Excel proficiency a Please fax resume and salary req’s to: have fabric knowledge & communicate w/ factory. Email: jobs [email protected] Designer with 2-5 years experience in Apparel exp., Quickbooks exp. Midtown must, and Access a plus. [email protected] handbag design. This individual will location. Career Oppty! Pls. fax resume be responsible for all aspects of the and salary req’s to: (212) 921-0705 Download queries, create Bag dept from concept to production. sales analysis reports, com- BUYER/ PIECE GOODS Qualified candidates should E-mail a plete item creation and Designer resume along with examples of work Established jr. mfg seeks Piece Goods to: [email protected] Buyer, detail oriented, organized, supplier quote. DESIGNER ASSISTANT Contemp. Designer House seeks : comp skills a must. Must communicate For Intimate Apparel Company. Must Designer DESIGNERS - TWEEN SPTS HI$ with suppliers/factories. be a fast learner, detail-oriented & Established Co. seeks (2) experienced CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING PLANNER organized along w/a great work ethic. Min. 5 yrs exp. in Women’s Designer Fax resumes to: 212-268-4920 or email: Market. Must be highly creative & individuals for trendy Junior-driven U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 [email protected] Construction knowledge & ability to branded collections. PLUM JOBS! www.sanodesignservices.com Target Specialist create flat sketches in Illustrator req’d. organized with strong tech skills. CUSTOMER SERVICE Req. 1-2 yrs exp. Target Associates in fashion also req’d. Linge- Technical Designer A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. rie /sleepwear exp a plus. Min. 5 yrs exp. Must possess expert 450 7TH AVE ( AGCY) 212-268-6123 ANNA SUI (Partners On-Line – Info. Email / fax: [email protected]; PATTERN/SAMPLES Must have 2+ years experience data knowledge of Spec & Fit. Overseas Retriever) exp. necessary. (212) 842-4050, Attn: V. Muskopf. EOE comm.. w/ HK & China factories req. Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast entry, invoicing, EDI implementation, Design work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 excellent communication and computer Strong retail math skills and Knowledge of Chinese a + skills and ability to multi-task. work accuracy. Assist the Fax resume to 212 869 4043 Magashoni Apparel Group Fax resume & salary req: 212-768-2358 Director of Planning to ACCESSORIES DESIGNER PATTERNS, SAMPLES, DESIGNER DESIGN create corporate reports ASST ACCESSORIES DESIGNER PRODUCTIONS Associate Designer ASSOCIATE DRESS DESIGNER All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. ASSISTANT DESIGNER using mathematical formulas (PRODUCTION) Major intimate apparel mnfctr. is seek- Private label design studio seeks: Call Sherry 212-719-0622. in Excel. Excel proficiency a ing an Associate Designer. Should be Outerwear Co. seeks Assistant Designer. must, and Access a plus. creative, organized, detail-oriented & a Accessories - Exp. in leather and fabric PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Must be organized & motivated, able to Download queries and cre- team player. Resp. include: communi- DESIGNER handbags, able to shop market, design juggle multiple job tasks! Proficient in cating w/overseas office/factories, innovative product, present to customer Illustrator a MUST. Ability to speak ate sales analysis reports. Est’d missy sportswear importer seeks and follow-up with overseas production. PRODUCTIONS sketching, processing artwork, prepar- creative designer to work in fast paced excellent English a MUST! Have artistic ing sampling/prod pkgs, & asstng Must know Photoshop and Illustrator. Full service shop to the trade. eye for detail & proportion. Must know Please send resume with environment. Must be detail oriented, Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. salary requirements to merchandiser in all phases of develop- work independently & take direction Associate Dress Designer - Must have how to sketch & do worksheets on Il- ment. Must be computer literate & lustrator &Web PDM. Salary: $30K+ [email protected], well. Technical skills & min 3 yrs. exp. strong dress const. knowledge and know Illustrator. Some possible travel. req’d. Excellent oppty for the right contemporary taste level. PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD commensurate on experience. Medical Great company, full benefits! Benefits/401K available. Hours: 9-6 pm with AP112 in the person! Fax resume to: (212) 302.5184 E-mail resumes to: [email protected] High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- subject line. Fax/e-mail to: S. Stevens: 212-842-4020 or Call Lisa: (212) 302-3744 or E-mail or Fax: (212) 869-3179 after 7pm sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] EOE [email protected] or Fax resume to: (212) 944-7857 WWD, THURSDAY, MARCH 29, 2007 19 Obituaries WWD.COM Franklin Rizzo, 89, Connie L. Finell, Anne Klein Senior V.P. By David Moin long after, she opted for store management at one of Gelberg President Saks’ premier locations in Greenwich, Conn. CONNIE L. FINELL, SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT “Connie was a wonderful human being,” said NEW YORK — Franklin Rizzo, president of Gelberg Braid of retail at the Anne Klein division of Jones New Christina Johnson, a former Saks chief executive Co. Inc., one of New York’s oldest custom trimmings manu- York, and earlier a top women’s buyer for Saks offi cer who is a partner and managing director at facturers, died of a heart attack here on March 14, company Fifth Avenue and Mitchells/Westport, died of breast NRDC Equity Partners and worked with Finell. designer Ginetta Giaccio said. He was 89. cancer Friday. She was 49. “She was generous, spirited and a terrifi c mer- Gelberg, an 83-year-old millinery, belts, bag and braid Finell worked almost until her death, attend- chant. She was a great asset to our team. She will resource for Seventh Avenue, works with designers includ- ing the Anne Klein fashion show last month for be so terribly missed.” ing Calvin Klein’s’ Francisco Costa, Bill Blass’ Michael the fi rst collection designed by Isabel Toledo. Mara Perlmutter, president of bridge jew- Volbracht and Donna Karan. She began her career at Saks as a buyer in the elry of the Victoria & Co. division of the Nine A native New Yorker, Rizzo started off as a salesman be- fashion jewelry department at age 21 and rose to West Accessories unit of Jones New York, said: fore he took over the business from his father Franco. He be vice president of designer apparel, working with “Connie was an inspiring, respected professional, worked three days a week until his death. some of the best-known fi gures of the industry. a dear friend and a mother who had a rare style “What a loss,” said ready-to-wear designer George After leaving Saks, Finell became a vice presi- and grace. She was a true merchant who touched Simonton. “I’m celebrating 42 years on Seventh Avenue. He dent of merchandising for the women’s division at the lives of so many. We started our careers to- was one of my fi rst people I went to for trim. He couldn’t have Mitchells, the luxury fashion emporium in Westport, gether at Saks as assistant buyers, and at the end been a fi ner gentleman. Franklin was always a pro. Anything I Conn. When she joined Mitchells, the store had only of her career, we were together again.” asked him to do — passementerie, whatever — he was there.” a tiny women’s operation and was widely known for She graduated from Tobe Coburn in Manhattan Gelberg is also known for supporting Fashion Institute of its stellar men’s offerings. However, Finell was in- in 1978 with a degree in fashion merchandising. Technology students, giving free trim and in turn garnering strumental in propelling Mitchells into the women’s Finell is survived by her husband, Mark; the support of fl edgling designers. arena. The store now has an equally strong reputa- daughters Marissa, Laura and Rebecca; her fa- Rizzo is survived by his wife Stephanie; three sons, tion in men’s and women’s. ther, Carl Fruehling, and brothers Carl, Brian Phillip, William and James, and a granddaughter. Eventually, Finell returned to Saks as a vice and James. — Sophia Chabbott president and divisional merchandise manager. Not A funeral service was held Tuesday.

DESIGN TECH ASST Sewing Education Mgr Production Assistant Simplicity Pattern, Co. Inc. seeks Fast paced NYC apparel company Movie Star Inc., seeks a production seeking a person with excellent Illus- articulate professional with excellent SALES EXECUTIVES assistant that is very good with details. writing and presentation skills. Objec- European High End Children’s trator skills. Must have 1-2 years exp Must be computer literate to perform with a degree in fashion design. Must tive is to promote and implement Wear Company is looking for the following tasks: enter bill of mate- programs targeting Simplicity as the have a good understanding of rials & cutting tickets, order woven construction of jackets, pants, skirts. key ingredient in sewing education. Sales Executives. Candidates must labels & tickets, and process the related Must be able to write and package sew- be responsible, reliable, energetic, Great eye for detail. Please fax resume invoices. Also must possess good com- and salary req’s to: [email protected] ing lesson plans for multi-purpose use, and love to sell. Computer literate munication skills and must be efficient deliver how to sew seminars and working in a fast paced environment. demonstrations at consumer shows, a must. Great benefits package. Fit Model/Design Asst. Fax resume & salary to: HR 212.684.3295 educational shows, media events and Please e-mail resume to: Leading Importer of Sweaters & Knits create network of contacts. BS / BA Account Executive [email protected] has immediate opening for full time Degree. Min 6+ yrs business exp in SALES Young Missy Model/ Design Assistant sewing industry. Excellent benefits. Off Price • Height 5’7"- 5’8" Send resume w/salary req to: REPRESENTATIVE • Bust 35 1/2" PRODUCTION ASSOCIATE Simplicity Attn: HR Fax: 212 683-1013 Large accessory company • Waist 28" SWEATERS or email [email protected] Roxy, a division of Quiksilver Inc. seeks aggressive individual TOP NOTCH SALES • High Hip 34 1/2" Leading apparel company seeks highly SPEC TECH...... 45K • Low Hip 38" is seeking a highly motivated, to help liquidate seasonal motivated person to track goods from 1- 3 yrs Construction /Pattern exp inventory to off price reta- Well established updated Missy Duties include flat sketching in order placement to delivery. 3 - 5 yrs Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 energetic, Sales Professional to Better Sweater Co. seeks aggres- Illustrator. Must be computer literate. production exp. req with strong follow [email protected] ilers and jobbers on an Great opportunity for recent graduate. up skills. Candidate must be detail www.srisearch.com represent the Roxy Footwear ongoing basis. sive & highly motivated individual Please forward resume to: oriented, ability to multi task, articulate, Collection. This individual must be to expand with dept./chain stores. E-mail: [email protected] and able to communicate with w/ Spec Tech/Quality Assurance This is a full-time position, or Fax: (212) 398-4350 overseas office and suppliers on a self-motivated with a passion to Fax resume to: 212-302-7672 or daily basis. Outlook & Excel exp a must. Movie Star Inc. is seeking an experi- and requires a min of 5 yrs Call Charman at 212-302-0444 Please fax or e-mail resume & salary enced Spec. Tech with the following succeed and have a strong relation- exp in this market. requirements to:[email protected] experience: ability to measure & eval- ships with better department stores or 212-944-8409 attn: HR212 uate pre-production & production Please send resume, sal req MERCHANDISER ...... 60-100k samples, knowledge of garment con- and speciality accounts. This per- Intimates Wal-Mart struction, communication w/ overseas and a list of key accts to: Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 factories, prior sewing and experience son must live in the greater New [email protected] [email protected] working with sample makers. Exp. w/ York area. Thisis a great opportuni- www.srisearch.com PRODUCTION Walmart preferred. Comp: MS Word and Excel required. Fax resume ty to join a division of Roxy and Designer Bridal House Asst. Production Mgr. w/salary to: 212-798-4955 Well established women’s dress mfr. reap in the rewards of a rapidly Showroom Sales looking for individual with min. 5 years SPEC Tech-Some Childrens apparel exp Must have wholesale knowledge of the MERCHANDISER / experience in import production. Must nec taking specs/making up tech packs/ growing brand. bridal market, exp. working directly COORDINATOR be computer proficient, very organized, do design info/MAC-Illus nec. $36-44K with retail buyers, min 5 years exp, Succesful multi-label dress mfr seeks and have strong communication skills. Les Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870 Job Requirements: self-motivated & team player. Full time. Carlos Miele highly motivated individual to launch Fax resume to HR: (212) 898-1211 • 3-5 years Sales Rep experience. Send resume and salary history to: RETAIL SALES ASSOCIATE new Bridesmaid Division. Must have TECH DESIGN ASSIST [email protected] International Couture Designer seeks 3-5 years experience. • 2+ years Footwear experience experienced Sales Professional for its EXCELLENT OPPORTUNITY! WOVENS/CUT & SEW • Good Organization skills. Meatpacking District Flagship Store. Better Sportswear company seeks Email resume and salary Professionals should have an existing detail oriented team player with excel- • Retail Math client book or background that represents requirements in confidence to Production Manager lent organizational and technical skills. [email protected] • Excellent Communication skills. expertise with a minimum 3-5 years Est’d. Apparel Importer seeks detail Responsibilities include executing and experience, the highest standards of oriented, organized individual able to do sending out tech pkgs, liaison with Please forward resumes to: customer service, and excellent commu- everything from start to end. Must have design team and tech dept, daily Men’s Account Executive nication skills. Great opportunity for overseas/domestic production knowledge communication with overseas. Must be [email protected] growth. Competitive salary & benefits. Merchandiser/ Designer and good communication & follow-up extremely proficient with Illustrator/ Major Denim resource looking for an Fax resumes to: 646-336-6690 or E-mail skills. Fax resume to: 212-398-1302 Photoshop and Excel. experienced MEN’S ACCOUNT EXEC. to to: [email protected] New York Private Label Sportswear E-mail resume to: handle major dept. stores, large chain & Importer seeks a passionate, creative [email protected] specialty stores. Must have experience. and exp’d individual. Duties incl. To apply please email resume to: analyzing market & trend, sourcing [email protected] fabric, completing tech packs & following Production/Sourcing Tech Designer - KIDS up sampling. Strong interpersonal & SaraMax Home division seeks an Jr. knit & woven importer is seeking an communication skills are a must. exp’d, aggressive indiv to be responsible individual with 2+ years experience in suppliers for sourcing new factories & oversee- CAD/Adobe/Photoshop and ability to recruitment Email resumes & salary history to make full Tech-Packs. Please E-mail to: [email protected] ing production for Big Licensed Brands to produce and source home [email protected] textile products for Kitchen and Bath. opportunities Production Assistant Requires travel, strong relationships Tech Designer - Knits Contemporary Design house seeks with overseas factories in China, India, Leading Imptr of Sweaters & Knits, travel skilled pro to handle Production Coord. Pakistan, Egypt & Brazil. Must also has immediate opening for Young Missy Responsible for scheduling, costing, be able to negotiate costing and be Tech Designer. This is an exciting new real estate fitting, overseas communications, order familiar w/Quality Control req’s for division. Candidate will work together placing & tracking. Strong computer major US Retailers. Computer profi- w/ Designer & be responsible for develop- and technical skills preferred. ciency and exp in Home Textiles. ment & specs. Must be computer literate, The ultimate real estate decision-makers, including Fax resume to 212 869 4043 Email resume to: be able to sketch in Illustrator, have owners, partners and CEOs, subscribe to WWD. [email protected] EOE excellent verbal & written communication Production Assistant skills & knowledge of overseas produc- tion, garment construction & graded BRA CUP SALES PRO Luxury company based in Soho seeks specs. Candidate will attend fittings & China based factory w/ open capacity experienced individual with strong communicate technical changes, formu- willing to pay premium commission follow-through & organizational skills. late corrections & provide solutions to for fast results. Lingerie, swimwear, Responsibilities include tracking, daily Public Relations Asst PR person needed for In House overseas factories. 3-5 yrs. prior knitwear Call 1-800-423-3314 or email fpclassifi [email protected] to advertise. etc. High quality, fast sample turn- contact with factories, fabric orders, technical design exp. req’d. Pls. send around. Aggressive pricing. and clearly communicating all details. Name Brand w/Editorial Media Con- Source: WWD Subscriber Study, Beta Research Inc., 2005. tacts. Email: [email protected] resume to: [email protected] Please e-mail resume to: Please fax resumes to 212-965-8071 or Fax: (212) 398-4350 [email protected] or E-mail: [email protected] All the bes t for your family.

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