GRAND CANYON
GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK. ARIZONA PART I The South Rim of Grand Canyon is Grand Canyon Village, center of South Getting to Know the South Rim are famous. Often, far below you to Lipan Point, which many people think on a flat, pine-forested plateau. About Rim development, roads stretch east the west, the brilliant afterglow reflects offers the most exciting view of all. 7,000 feet above sea level, it looks guide and west along the rim. The West Rim Drive leads 8 miles from the surface of the Colorado The river winds far below you, and, across to the higher North Rim, which Trails provide a more intimate look from the village to Hermit's Rest, pass River. on the southern horizon, behind you, geologically is part of the same at the canyon. Kaibab Trail, starting ing excellent lookouts on the way. You The East Rim Drive leads from the the San Francisco Peaks reach high to the plateau. Relatively mild winters and from Yaki Point, and Bright Angel will find it a good trip any time of village to Desert View. You may want into the sky. The visitor center, greater accessibility make the South Trail, starting near Bright Angel day, but it is particularly enjoyable at to visit the Watchtower, which perches Yavapai Museum, and Tusayan Mu Rim the more visited side. From south rim Lodge, descend to the river. dusk, for the sunsets from Hopi Point on the rim there. On the way, stop at seum are also on this drive.
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3 4 Seasons on the South Rim As roads on the South Rim remain open all year, travelers can enjoy the canyon in any season. On the rim, a sweater or coat is comfortable the year round. And bring a raincoat- just in ease. Spring, heralded by flowers, is fol lowed quickly by summer. From June into September, temperatures range from the mid-forties at night to the mid-eighties in the daytime; the rela tive humidity is generally low. It sel dom rains in June, but brief thunder storms are frequent in July and Au gust. In the canyon, midsummer tem peratures reach 100° to 120°F. Autumn is a short season here, for summer is soon followed by the crisp, clear days of the South Rim winter. Snow may first fall in October or No vember. From November to April, temperatures are likely to drop below freezing at night, but by day the forties and fifties are the rule.
How to Reach the South Rim By automobile. U.S. 66 crosses northern Arizona through Williams and Flagstaff. The Grand Canyon is less than a 2-hour drive from both cities over all-weather paved roads. NPS campgrounds are maintained U.S. 89, a major north-south route, at the village and at Desert View. Each provides access to the park at Cameron. site has a table and fireplace. Fire Ariz. An all-weather scenic highway wood may be purchased from a con enters the park near Desert View. cessioner. Water and comfort stations are nearby. Campsites cannot be re Church services are conducted Airlines, buslines, and a railroad served. throughout the year. Protestant: Sun serve Williams and Flagstaff. Airlines day mornings at the Community Build serve Grand Canyon directly by means Trailer Village, near the visitor cen ter, has utility hookups. ing. Latter-day Saints: Grand Canyon of an airport south of the park. Each School. Roman Catholic: Bright Angel (light is met by a bus that takes pas Hotel facilities are available. For Lodge. Inquire for times. sengers to (band Canyon Village. Bus rates and reservations, write to Fred lines serve Grand Canyon Village from Harvey. Grand Canyon. Ariz.. 86023. Telephones are available at hotel Williams and Flagstaff, and in the and lodges, at the visitor center, and Grand Canyon Hospital is near park summer a local train makes a daily adjacent to the general store. There is headquarters. round trip between Grand Canyon telephone service to the North Rim, Village and Williams, connecting with The post office is near park head Phantom Ranch, and Havasupai In certain through trains. quarters. The mailing address is Grand dian Reservation. Canyon, Ariz. Air charter service is available in A movie and slide program of earlv Accommodations and General services are a bank, zkmeri- summer between the North and South Colorado River exploration by the Services—South Rim can Express, telegraph office, service Rims; however, there is no direct Rolb brothers is shown daily at the Accommodations range from free- station, garage, and a general store scheduled public transportation be Kolb Studio, west of Bright Angel campgrounds to hotel suites. with a supermarket. tween the North and South Rims. Lodge.
5 6 The high Kaibab Plateau north of The North Rim is 214 miles by road The ranger station, lodge, and inn Getting to Know PART II 3-mile drive to Point Imperial, which Grand Canyon is cool and moist, in from the South Rim. The last 44 miles on the North Rim are located on a the North Rim leads off the Cape Royal road. Here contrast with the desert encircling it of this trip, after leaving Jacob Lake, promontory that stretches for a mile at midday, the Painted Desert often guide below. Kaibab is an Indian word that provide the introduction to your into the canyon, bounded on one side Cope Royal, reached by a 26-mile seems to hang suspended like a mirage means "mountain lying down." Fifty North Rim visit. This road, closed by by Roaring Springs Canyon and on drive along a paved road, provides a on the eastern horizon. miles long and 35 miles wide, this snows in winter, leads through a forest the other by The Transept, another view of the canyon eastward to the to the plateau is covered by a beautiful for of tall pines, spruce, and quaking side canyon. The end of the promon Painted Desert. Stop, too, for a view The road to Point Sublime is primi est. Spectacular buttes and temples aspen. Deer and wild turkey forage tory is Bright Angel Point, 13 miles of the canyon through Angels Win tive, and drivers are urged to use cau north rim form the canyon foreground views. in grassy meadows. from the entrance station. dow. Returning, take time for the tion. It leads through forests of aspen
7 8 This cross-canyon view shows, in upper left, Cape Royal and Wotan's Throne, North Rim features.
When you leave the Bright Angel area on the mule trip to Phantom The Naturalist Program Ranch, the trail is in deep shade. Visitors desiring a short hike will Then suddenly you descend into the find the Transept Trail walk, led by a canyon on a trail that in places has ranger-naturalist, a leisurely and in been cut out of solid rock. Roaring structive 1-mile (round trip) stroll. Springs, just below Bright Angel Point, Mist gives Japanese feeling to this camera art. These daily walks begin at the trail In hazy outline, rock forms march to a distant is your first stop. rim. Three thousand feet below Toroweap Point, the shelter near the lodge. Accommodations and Colorado glistens on its way to the sea. and conifers. Here, the inner canyon At Cottonwood Camp, halfway be Geology talks are given daily in Services—North Rim seems to come closer than at any other tween Roaring Springs and Ribbon summer at Cape Royal. Campfire pro One of the most memorable experi Accommodations are available only spot along the North Rim. The road Falls, you will find that the tempera grams, presented each evening in the may be impassable in wet weather. In ences of a summer visit to the North in summer. For rates and reservations Grand Canyon ture has risen some 30°F. since you left campground near the inn, and the dry weather, it may be closed because Rim is the drive to Cape Royal. The at Grand Canyon Lodge and North National Monument Bright Angel Point, for you have illustrated programs given nightly in of forest fire danger. last part of it is along a roadway Rim Inn, write to the Utah Parks Co., dropped almost 4,000 feet. At Ribbon the lodge will add greatly to your en Adjoining the park on the west is hedged with fragrant locust. Add to Cedar City, Utah, or, during the sum Daily afternoon bus trip to Point Falls, 9 miles along on your 14-mile joyment of the park. Grand Canyon National Monument, a this the sight and smell of countless mer, telephone or write to that com Imperial and Cape Royal includes a journey to the river, you will want to primitive area of about 310 square See bulletin boards for schedules of field and mountain flowers—Indian pany at North Rim Rural Station, nature talk at Cape Royal. stop for the scenery. miles established in 1932. At Toroweap interpretive activities. paintbrush, lupine, gilia, penstemon, Fredonia, Ariz. The last 5 miles will be the hottest, Point one of the most impressive views Bright Angel Point Trail is a self- Seasons on the North Rim iris, Queen-Annes-lace, forget-me-not, An NPS campground near the inn in the canyon awaits you. Looking guiding nature trail. Beginning at the but they will be shady, and soon you and scarlet-bugler. In the forest, fami will reach Phantom Ranch. You will The road into the park is usually has tables, fireplaces, wood, running straight down the sheer rock walls, you trailside shelter, it is an easy walk of lies of deer roam late. Keep a sharp water, and comfort stations. Campsites can see the snakelike Colorado River, three-tenths of a mile to the point. have made a trip which, in climate, is blocked with snow by November 1, eye out for them along the road—they like going from Canada to Mexico. and it remains closed until early in cannot be reserved. 3,000 feet below. Such a view is not Guide leaflets are available at the trail- are inveterate jaywalkers, and they possible in the National Park. To the side shelter and near the lodge. May. But from mid-May to mid- give no notice. Medical attention. A nurse is on October, three distinct seasons can be west is Mount Trumbull, the last land Going by foot on the North Kaibab From September until mid-October, duty at the lodge. Horsebock trips, in morning and enjoyed at the North Rim. mark of the Grand Canyon country on Trail to the river, 14 miles, can be days are still warm, and aspens mantle The post office is in the lodge. Mail afternoon, follow the rim. Special par By early May, more than 200 inches the western horizon. made one way in a day; however, you the hillsides with gold. This is a good ing address is General Delivery, North ties can be arranged. of snow may have fallen, but out on The best route to Toroweap leaves are urged to break your trip at one time to visit the North Rim. Rim Rural Station, Fredonia, Ariz. of the four campgrounds en route. Point Sublime and Cape Royal, warm the main highway at the town of Fre Exploring the Canyon There are two other things to watch. updrafts from the inner canyon will Church services. Protestant, Roman donia near the Arizona-Utah border. The 65-mile graded road to Tuweep Going by muleback down the North First, be very careful in crossing the have allowed spring flowers to bloom. Catholic, and Latter-day Saints services How to Reach the North Rim Ranger Station is easily passable in Kaibab Trail matches the South Rim's creek during high water. Second, while Cactus, agave, and cliffrose will be in are held on Sundays. Inquire at the A paved road leaves U.S. 89A at good weather. Toroweap Point is 5 Phantom Ranch Trip for thrills and mule parties are passing, stand still on brilliant blossom, and the noon air lodge for time and place. Jacob Lake, Ariz. This road is closed miles by unimproved road beyond the superb scenery. You can go to Roaring the outside of the trail. Canyon hikers will have midsummer warmth. Be by snow from about mid-October to Telephones are at the lodge and inn. ranger station. No supplies, lodgings, Springs (4.6 miles) and return in 1 should obtain the "Hiker Information tween the park entrance and Bright mid-May. Public transportation to the or meals are available after leaving day. Another trip takes you all the Bulletin" at the North Rim Ranger Angel Point, the meadows fill with North Rim is available only from mid- Fredonia. A small campground is way to Phantom Ranch. Reserve your Station. Anyone planning to use trails flowers, but snowbanks remain near A service station and grocery store June through August by bus from near Toroweap Point. No water is mule in advance. A minimum of three not described in this folder must get the forest edge. Nights are cold, and are at Bright Angel Point, on the road Cedar City, Utah. available. persons is required for each trip. a permit from the district park ranger. even in sunshine the air is chilly. to North Rim Inn.
9 10 PART III In cutting this renowned chasm, Life Zones the which measures roughly 217 miles long, North America has been divided 9 miles wide, and 1 mile deep, the into seven major temperature zones Colorado River has exposed a great according to latitude, ranging from canyon's series of rock layers. From many points Tropical at the Equator to Arctic in you can see fine examples of the rocks the polar region. Biologists, observing natural of all the known eras of geological that plants and animals typical of each time—from the Precambrian to the zone differ appreciably from those in history present era, the Cenozoic—a span of adjacent temperature zones, have nearly 2 billion years. Few places in called them "life zones." The same Geology the world permit this geologic perspec zoning as to temperature, plants, and tive. In the many colors of its layered animals also can occur at a single lati walls and in the black rock of its gorge, The hard black rock of the inner tude in areas that extend from low to Grand Canyon reveals a great story of gorge of the Grand Canyon, a narrow, high elevations. Thus, in the Grand slow, but relentless, change in the V-shaped chasm 1,500 feet deep, be Canyon region, at a single latitude, the earth's crust. longs to the most ancient geologic era— elevation range from 2,000 to 9,000 the Precambrian. This rock was origi How was the canyon formed? In feet creates a wide climatic variation nally composed of lavas and layers of geologic time, it is a new canyon still and five different life zones. gravel, sand, and silt built up both in being carved—the down-cutting process The Lower Sonoran zone, the next the sea and on land. But tremendous began only about 7 million years ago. zone north of Tropical, has the climate pressures and heat from mountain- At that time the ancestral Colorado of southern Sonora, Mexico. In Grand building forces, perhaps a billion years River flowed in about its present Canyon it occurs at river level (2,000 ago, recrystallized these original forma course over a vast, low-lying plain. feet elevation). Typical plants are tions into the dark, vertically platy Then a general rising of the land cactus, agave, and yucca; animals are rock called schist that you see in the caused the river to flow more swiftly. also those of the desert—chuckwalla inner gorge today. At the same time, a slow and gentle and desert spiny lizards, rattlesnake, doming occurred in this region. The The ancient mountains built up at and black-throated sparrow. Part way swift river was able to cut downward that time were slowly worn away. up the ascent to the South Rim, the about as fast as the dome rose. As a re Upon their remnants, many rock layers climate, vegetation, and animal life be were later deposited in seas or on land. sult, the Colorado maintained its come typical of the next zone north, FEBRUARY 1965 NP-GC-11015 Eventually, by uplifting and faulting, course as the canyon walls grew higher the Upper Sonoran, which is character Millions of years ago, the sea was here, and and higher above it. new mountains were built, and these ized by the pinyon and juniper belt. trilobites fed on its floor. Some of these crab in their turn were eroded away. The like creatures became fossilized in deposits in The river itself has cut only a nar The Transition zone, the next zone those seas. Specimens shown here came from horizontal rock layers in the upper still farther north, appears on the lower part of the Bright Angel shale. (See dia row slot. The great width of the Grand walls of the Grand Canyon are there gram, left.) Canyon is the result of erosion by land South Rim at 7,000 to 8,000 feet eleva fore younger and have been subjected tion. Here, in the ponderosa pine for slides, runoff of water from the sides, to less change than the ancient layers ice and frost action, and other agents. ests, you can see such birds as Steller's of the black inner gorge. Today, we jay and mountain chickadee. In the process, much rock debris- can identify in the upper walls thick boulders, gravel, sand, and mud—has layers of limestone derived from de Familiar flowers of the South Rim, been working downhill to the river. posits in prehistoric seas, shales derived from spring to autumn, include phlox, Hence, the forces widening the canyon from muds, and sandstones derived blue penstemon, buttercup, spring- have been supplying the Colorado's from sands. beauty, mahonia, cliffrose, rabbitbrush, waters, flowing at an average rate of wild sunflower, purple aster, sulfur the North and South Rims, even 7 miles an hour, with cutting tools- In these rock layers are fossil rem eriogonum, snakeweed, and paper- though they are only 9 miles apart. sand for scouring, boulders for pound nants of prehistoric life. First are flower. The white-tailed black Kaibab squirrel ing. Century after century, these tools primitive sea plants; then, in younger The river itself is a barrier to the on the North Rim is separated by a have helped deepen the gorge. For and hence higher layers, are primitive smaller creatures, but climatic differ hostile chasm and climate from its near years, the river's raging brown and red seashells and crablike trilobites. Still ences between life zones also prevent relative on the South Rim—the Abert's torrents carried past any given point in higher, traces of later, more advanced many animals from crossing from rim squirrel, with a gray body, gray tail, the canyon an average of half a million forms successively appear. Here are to rim. Some birds go from zone to and white underparts. The famous tons of mud and sand every 24 hours! the armored fish which were among zone briefly. But each bird species is blue spruce on the North Rim are not In addition, its waters probably swept the first creatures with backbones. at home in that life zone where cli seen at all on the other side of the a nearly equal load of boulders along Next are the early kinds of land life: mate, plants, and food supply are most canyon. This is because the North the river bottom. Now, because of the fine fossil ferns, and remains of sala suited to its habits. Rim is 1,000 to 2,000 feet higher than closing of Glen Canyon Dam upstream manderlike and lizardlike reptiles. Because of the double barrier im the South. As a result, the North Rim from Grand Canyon, the impounded Here, amid the majesty and beauty posed by the deep canyon and the extends, at about 8,000 feet, into the waters of Lake Powell retain much of of the Grand Canyon, then, is the contrasting climatic zones, we see many Canadian zone, and at 9,000 feet into this silt and sand. story of the earth. differences in plants and animals on the still cooler Hudsonian zone.
11 12 rO BRVCE CANYON N.P AND CEDAR BREAKS MM.
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Hopis perform feather dance on the South Rim. TO PRESCOTT AND PHOENIX TO W/NStOW duced a bill to make it a National Within half a day's drive from Grand Canyon are several outstanding areas of the National Park System. Park. Opposition by both public and private interests delayed the passage of The Havasupai are a peaceful na The Navajos are far more numerous such a bill for more than 30 years. In tion whose people say they have never (90,000), and their 25,000-square-mile 1893, as President of the United States, killed a white man. In the 12th cen reservation is the largest in the United Harrison established the Grand Can tury, their ancestors were driven 'from States. Still partly nomadic, they pre yon Forest Preserve; but the area was Havasupai farms make an unexpected pattern in the rugged Grand Canyon landscape. their homes on the plateaus near fer to live in the open or in isolated still open to exploitation by mining the Grand Canyon by raiding Indians, hogans rather than in villages. They and lumbering interests. raise sheep and goats, and, when they Prehistory River, Wyo., on May 24. Three months but they found a haven in Havasu History President Theodore Roosevelt, after later, having faced scores of thunder Canyon. Their oasis, 2i/o miles long stop long enough in one place, they The walls of Grand Canyon and the Recorded history of the Grand his first trip to the canyon in 1903, ous rapids and a constant sense of un and nearly half a mile wide, is watered farm. Their chief source of income- plateaus along both rims hold the story Canyon began with its discovery in said, "Do nothing to mar its grandeur known danger, the party emerged from by spring-fed Havasu Creek. From its next to sheep and goats—is from the of the prehistoric people who lived 1540 by Don Lopez de Cardenas, one . . . keep it for your children, your color comes the name Havasupai, or sale of blankets and jewelry. there. Some of them lived below the Grand Canyon. of Coronado's captains, and 12 fol children's children, and all who come "people of the blue-green water." Be Four thousand Hopis (their name rims in small, family-size cliff dwellings Tourist travel to the canyon began lowers. In 1848, after the war with after you, as the one great sight which low the village of Supai are three means "peaceful people") lite in 11 built like fortresses for protection from in the 1880's when John Hance, a Mexico, the United States became every American should see." In 1908, waterfalls of great beauty, one of villages in a reservation surrounded enemies. Pottery fragments and other miner turned dude wrangler, began to owner of the region by the treaty of he established Grand Canyon National which is 200 feet high. by the much larger Navajo Reserva remains indicate a thriving culture. improve the Indian trails and to greet Guadalupe Hidalgo. Trappers occa Monument. Finally, an act of Congress tion. Intensely conservative, the Hopis Traces of small gardens suggest how visitors with his tall tales of the sionally passed by the canyon, and signed on February 26, 1919 estab Today, these Indians number about live today in their mesa-top pueblos these Indians used the land. canyon. A hotel was built at Grand- their stories of the great gorge quick lished Grand Canyon National Park. 200. They farm the fertile valley, rais almost as the Spaniards found them By the time the first Europeans ened interest in its exploration. view Point in 1892; the Santa Fe Lines completed track to the South Rim in ing grain, fruit, and vegetables. They 400 years ago. They derive most of visited the area, the pueblos and cliff The first successful transit of the The Indians Today augment their farm income by provid their livelihood from the soil. Corn dwellings of Grand Canyon were al canyon came in 1869, when Maj. John 1901; and the first automobile arrived at the South Rim in 1902. Indians now inhabiting the Grand ing accommodations and services to is their chief crop, and some of their ready long abandoned. Probably Wesley Powell, a one-armed Civil War Canyon region belong to one of three visitors who follow the trail into their ceremonial dances are marked by pray drought and marauding Indian foes hero, made a daring voyage down Establishment of the Park tribes—Navajo, Hopi, or Havasupai. canyon. Unlike the other Indians of ers for rain and good harvests. The forced the dwellers to leave. For a nearly a thousand miles of continuous The Havasupai live in the western the region, who hold frequent tribal best known of these dances is the snake fuller story of the early Indians, visit canyons carved by the Green and Colo The movement to protect the can part of Grand Canyon. The Navajo ceremonies, the Havasupai have only dance. Visitors are welcome to watch the Tusayan Ruin and Museum near rado Rivers. In four boats, Powell and yon began in 1887, when Senator and Hopi live on reservations east of one major celebration—the Peach this ceremony, which takes place about Desert View. nine companions started from Green Benjamin Harrison, of Indiana, intro- the park. Harvest Festival in August. mid-August.
13 14 GRAND CANYON
GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK. ARIZONA outer side of the trail until animals Park naturalists, the interpretive COME WITH NATURE park have passed. force of the Service, operate the visitor center and museums and conduct na ON AN ADVENTURE Wheeled vehicles arc absolutely pro ture walks, campfire programs, and hibited on park trails. IN TIME AND SPACE regulations other interpretive activities. Hunting is prohibited within the park. Firearms are permitted in the Visitor-use Fees and Silence, space, and color—these command park only if they are sealed or cased Vehicle permit fees are collected at at Grand Canyon. Its vastness swallows administration to prevent their use. entrance stations. Fees are not listed Fishing in park streams requires an because they are subject to change. sound. Any motion against this enormous Arizona license. Details of regulations, The information may be obtained by backdrop, except' that of cloud shadows, in accordance with Arizona laws, are writing to the superintendent. Fees, passes unnoticed. And its sea of colors, To protect your park, regulations available at park entrance and ranger deposited in the U.S. Treasury, par ever-changing, spreads the immensity with tially offset the cost of operating the prohibit removing, defacing, or de stations. incredible beauty. stroying any rock, fossil, or plant; and National Parks. Pets are allowed in the park only Equally grandiose here is the dimension hunting, disturbing, or feeding any if they are physically controlled at all of time. It took 7 million years for the form of wildlife. times. They are not allowed on inner canyon trails under any circumstances. Colorado River, with further sculpturing by America's Natural Resources rain and melting snow, to carve this chasm Camping is permitted only in desig Administration in the gradually rising crust of the earth . . . nated areas. You are limited to M Grand Canyon National Park is ad Created in 1849, the Department of a record reaching nearly to the earth's be days. Dispose of burnable rubbish in ministered by the National Park Ser the Interior—America's Department of ginning. your campfire; put other refuse in vice, U.S. Department of the Interior. Natural Resources—is concerned with The river, entering the park on the east trash cans. The National Park System, of which the management, conservation, and de from the Painted Desert, follows a winding this park is a unit, is dedicated to con velopment of the Nation's water, wild Campfires may be built only in serving the scenic, scientific, and his life, mineral, forest, and park and course for 105 miles through Grand Canyon designated areas in the campgrounds. toric heritage of the United States for recreational resources. It also has National Park. The park spans nearly 50 Before leaving your camp, be sure your the benefit and enjoyment of its major responsibilities for Indian and air miles from east to west and about 25 fire is thoroughly extinguished. Report people. territorial affairs. any unattended fire to a park ranger. miles from north to south. Its total area As the Nation's principal conserva comprises 1,100 square miles. Maximum speed on park roads is The superintendent, whose address is tion agency, the Department works to The park's most important dimension, 45 m.p.h., except where posted. Drive Grand Canyon, Ariz., 86023, is in im assure that nonrenewable resources are however, is altitude. The 7,000-foot range carefully. mediate charge. developed and used wisely, that park Hiking and riding calls for care. Park rangers are the protective force and recreational resources are con in elevation makes it possible for a ther Stay on the trails. If you shortcut, you of the National Park Service. Their served for the future, and that renew mometer at the bottom of the canyon to may dislodge earth and rocks and seri job is to help you and to enforce park able resources make their full contri register 50°F. while a snowstorm rages on ously injure people below you. Horses regulations. You will find them at en bution to the' progress, prosperity, and the rims. It causes a progression of climate, security of the United States—now and and mules have the right-of-way; if trance stations, ranger stations, and with attendant changes in plant and animal you are on foot, stand quietly on the patrolling roads and campgrounds. in the future. life, from that of a Mexican desert at the o canyon bottom to that of southern Canada at the North Rim. Thus, much will be missed if one confines I his exploring to the rims. Even with a day or two, take one of the shorter mule trips, or a brief hike, into the canyon on the Bright Angel or Kaibab Trail. Looking into -.the canyon is one kind of thrill. Looking out of it is an entirely different experience. Revised 1965 U.S. Department of the Interior For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, GPO 1965 0-768 aw National Park Service U.S. Government Printing Office Washington, D.C.. 20402 - Price 15 cents