5 old-school marisqueiras for 19 MARISQUEIRA Marisqueira Antiga, near Matosinhos ANTIGA Beach, has served meals since 1957, SEAFOOD LOVERS Rua Roberto Ivens 628 making it the oldest marisqueira in . Matosinhos ➈ It’s not cheap, but you are guaranteed the +351 22 938 0660 highest-quality fish and seafood. Some esplanada locals also come here for the steak with marisqueira.com an old-fashioned sauce, not to mention the divine desserts.

16 A MARISQUEIRA This is one of the best marisqueiras (seafood 20 MARUJO This large marisqueira has been around DE MATOSINHOS eateries) in Porto, located near the harbour. Rua de Tomás since 1978. There are plenty of tables here Rua Roberto Ivens 717 The interiors were recently renovated but Ribeiro 284 but this is also one of the most popular Matosinhos ➈ the old-school atmosphere and huge salt­ Matosinhos ➈ restaurants for takeaways, with locals +351 22 938 1763 water live tank still prevail. The restaurant’s +351 22 400 1940 often queuing to pick up their food. amarisqueirade clientele is varied, ranging from business­ marujomarisqueira.com matosinhos.com men at lunchtime to big family gatherings and romantic couples in the evenings.

17 OS LUSÍADAS Another seafood institution in Matosinhos. Rua de Tomás The azulejo tile panels on the walls include Ribeiro 257 drawings and excerpts inspired by The Matosinhos ➈ Lusiads, a Portuguese epic poem written by 16 A MARISQUEIRA DE MATOSINHOS +351 22 937 8242 Luís Vaz de Camões in the 16th century. Of restaurantelusiadas.com course, all the seafood here is top-notch, but the salt-baked sea bass is a favourite.

18 O GAVETO Although marisqueira means seafood Rua Roberto Ivens 824 eatery, you’ll also find other options on Matosinhos ➈ the menu of these classic restaurants. Led +351 22 937 8796 by head chef Humberto Alonso since 1984, ogaveto.com O Gaveto’s building is an iconic site due to its recognisable sign in large Gothic letters above the door, and its quirky location at the rotunda. Specialities include the rich seafood rice and lobster açorda.

34 35 5 bars with a MAGNIFICENT VIEW

126 DICK’S BAR Dick Yeatman was a well-known British AT: THE YEATMAN HOTEL personality within the port wine trade. Rua do Choupelo This bar named after him is housed Santa Marinha, in Porto’s most luxurious hotel, The Vila Nova de Gaia �� Yeatman. Set on a hilltop in Gaia, you +351 22 013 3100 are guaranteed to enjoy the very best 129 BAR PONTE PÊNSIL the-yeatman-hotel.com panoramic views across the River and downtown from its terrace.

127 GUINDALENSE F. C. Nestled alongside Porto’s medieval city Escadas dos wall (Muralha Fernandina), this incredibly Guindais humble spot belongs to local football Sé ➃ team Guindalense. The view over the +351 22 203 4246 river and the bridge is really special. If you’re up for a bit of exercise, get here by walking up the steep alleyways from the riverfront. It’s a gem of a walk. Otherwise, take the funicular railway.

127 GUINDALENSE F. C.

84 85 5 shops by 192 KATTY XIOMARA Born in Venezuela, Katty Xiomara moved Rua da Boavista 795 to Porto in 1992 at 18 years old to study LOCAL FASHION Cedofeita ➀ fashion. Her collections have made it +351 22 013 3784 all the way to the Paris and New York DESIGNERS kattyxiomara.com Fashion Week circuits. Her playful womenswear creations don’t shy away from vibrant prints, different textures, asymmetry and volume.

191 NUNO BALTAZAR Nuno Baltazar is one of the leading 193 ANABELA BALDAQUE Local fashion designer Anabela Baldaque Rua do Bolhão 37 fashion designers in . At his Rua do Padre Luís launched her own brand in the late 1980s Santo Ildefonso ➂ flagship store and studio in downtown Cabral 1080 and was one of the designers present at +351 22 605 4982 Porto, you’ll find his latest womenswear ➇ the first Portugal Fashion event in 1995. nunobaltazar.com and menswear collections, which blend +351 93 405 6264 Her sophisticated collections tend to focus an urban industrial look with elegant anabelabaldaque.pt on unique feminine pieces including shapes. Bespoke tailor services are also dresses, blouses and shirts. available, including a made-to-measure service for brides. 194 LUIS BUCHINHO Luis Buchinho’s creations stand out for Rua de Sá da their original knitwear and playful cuts, Bandeira 812 giving them a modern cosmopolitan look. 195 MARIA GAMBINA Santo Ildefonso ➂ At his boutique and studio in Rua de Sá +351 22 201 2776 da Bandeira, he showcases and sells his luisbuchinho.pt collections to a female clientele.

195 MARIA GAMBINA Maria Gambina is a well-established Rua Fonte da Luz 197 designer from Porto who has also Foz do Douro ➇ dedicated herself to teaching fashion +351 91 722 5724 design, having mentored many of contemporary Portuguese designers. She finds inspiration for her creations in her passion for music. At her store in Foz, she sells her collections and accessories.

118 119 50 BUILDINGS TO ADMIRE

The 5 most striking HISTORICAL sites————————— 142

5 unique CHURCHES———————————————————— 144

5 STUNNING INTERIORS——————————————— 147

5 wondrous BRIDGES———————————————————— 149

5 buildings with ICONIC ARCHITECTURE———— 151

5 ARCHITECTURE ALUMNI from the ‘SCHOOL OF PORTO’——————————— 154

5 projects in Porto by ÁLVARO SIZA VIEIRA——— 156

5 projects in Porto by EDUARDO SOUTO DE MOURA——————————————————————————— 158

5 memorable CONTEMPORARY architecture works———————————————————————— 160

5 ARCHITECTS and LOCAL PROJECTS to check out———————————————————————————— 162

BAIRRO DA BOUÇA 5 GEMS 324 RUA DE Calçada Portuguesa is a traditional-style SAMPAIO BRUNO pavement made up of artfully arranged to discover in Porto Santo Ildefonso ➂ cobblestones, like an abstract or figurative mosaic. In 2005 the impressive calçada in Avenida dos Aliados was controversially replaced by granite, and parts were moved to Rua de Sampaio Bruno. You can now enjoy this beautiful 1910s pavement again.

321 PÉRGOLA DA FOZ This 1930s neoclassical pergola is an 325 CENTRO With the introduction of the mega-malls Avenida do Brasil 694 iconic sight on the seafront of Foz do COMERCIAL STOP in the 1990s, many of Porto’s older, Nevogilde ➇ Douro. There are probably not many Rua do Heroísmo 333 smaller shopping centres began to fall Portuenses who haven’t taken a photo Bonfim ➅ into decline. At the turn of the millen­ here, with the sea in the background. +351 22 537 3708 nium, a group of musicians began taking António Enes Baganha, who was one advantage of this by renting spaces at the of the most important artists of his STOP Shopping Centre, and using them generation, was in charge of the project. as rehearsal studios. Today STOP still has a few shops, but it’s mainly home to an 322 CHALÉ SUÍÇO The ‘Swiss Chalet’ is an octagonal cafe in amazing community of musicians. Rua do Passeio Rua do Passeio Alegre. Built in 1873, it was Alegre 900 later bought by the Swiss Jácome Rasker. Foz do Douro ➇ It’s the only kiosk of its type in Porto (there are six other kiosks) with the interior open to the public. Spot the intriguing ram sculpture that sits at the top.

323 LIGHTHOUSE OF This lighthouse is Portugal’s oldest SÃO MIGUEL-O-ANJO Renaissance-style building, and one of Rua do Passeio the oldest in Europe. Completed in 1538, Alegre 494 nowadays it also encompasses a chapel Foz do Douro ➇ and a Fiscal Guard building. Locals know it as ’Pilotos’ and in the summer it’s a joy to watch kids happily jumping off its sea 323 LIGHTHOUSE OF SÃO MIGUEL-O-ANJO wall for a refreshing dip.

178 179 5 of the 447 PRAIA DO OURIGO If you happen to be in the Foz do Douro Foz do Douro ➇ neighbourhood on a hot day and fancy BEST BEACHES a dip in the refreshing Atlantic Ocean, then Ourigo beach will be one of your in Porto or nearby best bets. There aren’t as many rocks here compared to the neighbouring beaches, plus you get a nice view of the Felgueiras lighthouse.

446 PRAIA DE Porto’s most popular urban beach is 448 PRAIA DE MIRAMAR Miramar is a small and upmarket MATOSINHOS a great choice for those seeking beginner Arcozelo �� seaside neighbourhood just south of Matosinhos ➈ surf lessons, although experienced local Vila Nova de Gaia, and 10 kilometres surfers enjoy it too. There are a few from the centre of the city. Its long sandy reputable surf schools here, as well as beach is famous for the 17th-century the beachfront ‘transparent building’ chapel that sits on a rocky headland. (as the locals call it) with beach bars and restaurants with outdoor terraces. 449 PRAIA DE This beach is a half-an-hour drive from SÃO PEDRO Porto’s centre and a favourite for those DE MACEDA seeking nature and good surf. Maceda is 449 PRAIA DE SÃO PEDRO DE MACEDA Ovar pretty tranquil even during the summer, with a long stretch of fine sand, and an impressive pine forest as a backdrop. There are no bars or any kind of facilities here, but its wilderness is what makes it special.

450 PRAIA DA ARDA Praia da Arda is located 85 kilometres Afife north of Porto, with many Portuenses holidaying here in the summer. Some come just for the day. This is one of the most beautiful beaches in the region, with its extensive sand strip and excellent surf. The legendary Restaurante da Mariana serves an excellent Robalo com Algas (boiled sea bass with seaweed).

236 237 5 454 PORTO BRIDGE In the old days, climbing the Arrábida CLIMB bridge was a ‘secret’ night-time activity UNUSUAL Rua do Ouro 680 pursued by thrill-seeking youngsters, Lordelo do Ouro ➆ although everyone except their parents activities +351 92 920 7117 seemed to know about it. These days you portobridgeclimb.com too can give it a go with Porto Bridge Climb. They provide guides and all the equipment to ensure a safe adventure. Sunset slots offer a beautiful experience. 451 SUPER BOCK – Super Bock is the most popular beer CASA DA CERVEJA among Portuenses, and Casa da Cerveja 455 CLUBE DE This crazy golf course is a nostalgic Rua do Mosteiro is the brewery that makes it. You can MINIGOLFE activity for many Portuenses who have Leça do Balio, experience a two-hour tour that will DO PORTO been coming here since the 1970s. There Matosinhos teach you all about their production Avenida de are two fun 18-hole courses: Minigolfe for +351 22 320 3160 methods and the history of this iconic Dom Carlos I more advanced players, and Petergolfe superbockcasada Portuguese brand. At the end, there’s Foz do Douro ➇ for beginners. At the end, you can snap cerveja.pt a beer tasting with food pairing. +351 22 618 8150 some photos on the podium. As a bonus, clubeminigolfe it’s located in the charming gardens of 452 KARTÓDROMO Founded in 1979, this outdoor go-karting porto.com Passeio Alegre. CABO DO MUNDO track is another Porto classic for those Rua de Almeiriga who love a bit of adrenaline. Its privileged Norte 2242 location means you can drive while 454 PORTO BRIDGE CLIMB Perafita ➈ enjoying a view of the sea. Many locals +351 22 995 9852 had their first four-wheel experience here. cabodomundo karting.pt

453 GAZETE AZULEJOS In 2016 Alba and Marisa started Rua do Duque an impressive online catalogue de Palmela 230 (azulejosporto.pt) of azulejo tiles found on Bonfim ➅ façades all around Porto. This hobby +351 91 289 1581 led them to learn about production gazeteazulejos.com techniques. They now offerazulejo tours and workshops.

238 239 5 473 FOOTBALL Portuenses live and breathe football. Most establishments have TVs constantly QUIRKY FACTS showing matches. After the revolution of 1974, the city’s clubs FC Porto and about Porto life and culture Boavista FC started thriving, winning tro­ phies both nationally and inter­nationally. From these proud achievements stems the locals’ favourite phrase: “O Porto não é uma cidade, o Porto é uma nação” (“Porto 471 PORTUGAL IS NAMED Porto fell under the control of the is not a city, Porto is a nation”). AFTER PORTO Moors during the invasion of the Iberian Peninsula in 711, including the settlement 474 PINTO DA COSTA If you want to have some banter with of Portus Cale, a Celtic-Latin ethnonym locals about football you should also for what is now known as Vila Nova know about Jorge Nuno de Lima Pinto de Gaia. The word Portugal is based on da Costa, who has been FC Porto’s the transliteration and oral evolution of president since 1982. With more than Latin from Portus Cale. 60 trophies under his belt, he’s arguably the most titled football chairman in the 472 TRIPEIROS In 1415, when Henry the Navigator left world. Although his reign isn’t free from CHECK: MONUMENTO Porto on an expedition, the citizens controversy, he’s revered by many. AOS TRIPEIROS offered up their supply of meat to feed Jardim do Calém the sailors, leaving behind nothing 475 PORTO STUDENTS J.K. Rowling lived in Porto in the early Lordelo do Ouro ➆ but by-products such as tripe. This is INSPIRED 1990s while teaching English as a foreign why Porto’s traditional tripe stew plays HARRY POTTER language. During this time, she’s said to such an important role in the city’s have started working on the Harry Potter gastronomic culture. It’s also why the series, finding inspiration in the grand nickname Tripeiros (tripe eaters) was interior of the Majestic Cafe. The image of given to the Portuenses. The Tripeiros Porto’s university students in their black Monument acknowledges the generosity cape uniforms is believed to have inspired of the people of Porto. the Hogwarts student attire.

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