1. Know Your Koshers Kosher can come from any country.Their production simply follows strict dietary guide- lines that begin in the vineyards themselves. Many rules are not all that different from gener- KosherWines: al winemaking with the most challenging being that during production, the is handled only The Outside Scoop by Sabbath observant male Jews. In many cases, Jeffery Lindenmuth even the winemaker is unable to personally handle the wine or equipment. Don’t make the novice mistake of lump- ing together all with . ou don’t have to be Jewish to love Kosher wine “With the number of new wines coming out which is a good thing for Gotham Wines’ resident of , things are always changing. Wines expert and general manager Costas Mouzouras, that did not used to be Kosher might become Y Kosher. And other smaller wineries may not because with a name like that, he isn’t fooling anyone. really care about being Kosher,” says Mouzouras, a native of Cyprus, moved to New York City Mouzouras. and began working at Gotham Wines on the Upper West Side of Manhattan at the age of 19 years. As his duties at “We group the Israeli wines the store expanded, Kosher wine more or less found him. by country and then place And he, in turn, found his passion. them near the Kosher sec- “It was at first sort of assigned to me, because the guy tion for ease of use.” who handled Kosher wines before me had left. I worked – Costas Mouzouras, Gotham Wines’ resident expert and general manager on American, Bordeaux, Italian, Port, Greek, but all of a sudden customers were asking me questions about Kosher wine does not really require any Kosher wines,” says Mouzouras. Undeterred by the chal- special handling, beyond your other wines, lenge of these unique wines, which are not distinguished as long as the bottle is kept closed. When by geography or but by religious law, Mouzouras pouring for a restaurant or catered event, a Kosher wine that is also Mevushal (flash pas- delved in with characteristic fervor. And his experience teurized) is a safer bet, because it technical- as an outsider can help anyone anxious to understand, ly still retains it’s Kosherness if it is poured appreciate, or sell these increasingly worthy wines. by a non-Jew. Long gone are the days of sweet Concord Rogov’s Guide juice. We’re talking Argentine Malbec and to Israeli Aussie Shiraz; Austrian ice wine and Wines 2005 (Daniel Rogov, California ; and from France, The Toby Press 2004) Bordeaux, Cru and Burgundy. While it focuses only on the wines of Israel, the first edition of this pocket-sized book from Israel’s 2. Same Wine, California Merlot; and undisputed wine authority covers millennia of information. From the specifics of ancient Kashrut from France, Bordeaux, Many Buyers law in making Kosher wine to the latest craze for The most obvious and Cru Beaujolais and boutique wine in Israel, Rogov weighs in clear and important customer for Burgundy. It is a good idea concise. Most important for the consumer or Kosher wine is the obser- to be on the lookout for retailer interested in Israeli wine, Rogov offers vant Jew. But Mouzouras new grape varieties that reviews, including tasting notes, scores, and Kosher status, for more than 1000 wines. There also sees sales rise during have not previously been are also short lists of top wines and wineries that vinified Kosher, which can the Jewish holidays as well can steer even a total neophyte toward a great as increased interest be hot sellers. “When the first experience in wine from the Jewish State. among younger Jews who first Primitivo came out it buy Israeli as a show of support for the was very exciting,” says Mouzouras, Jewish state. “By choosing only the best “Imagine, you love wine and you were The Ten Best Kosher wines I can sell them to anyone,” never permitted to taste that before. The Israeli Wine says Mouzouras. “Recently I’ve recom- same is true of Chianti and Barolo. And Producers mended Kosher wines that were on spe- now there is a straight Nebbiolo in the cial to all sorts of customers, just because works.” 1. Winery they wanted a good Cab or Pinot Noir.” (Yarden, Gamla, Golan) But Mouzouras takes it a step further. 4. Listen To Your Customers 2. Castel He can tell you when Shabbat falls on a Retailing 101, right? But for Mouzouras gen- 3. Flam Friday, help select winning wines for a uine enthusiasm is the key to developing a 4. Amphorae 5. Margalit wedding or bar-mitvah, and he may know truly special relationship. “Our customers really go to extremes, like bringing wine 6. Dalton whether a local insists on mevushal 7. Saslove back from their travels to try to get me inter- wines at an event. “It consumes a lot of my 8. Galil Mountain life, but I want to be involved and I partic- ested and get it in. It’s them helping me to 9. Tzora ipate in many events with the communi- have a better selection. And I love that!” He 10. Recanati ty,” says Mouzouras, who holds numerous says having a customer share a special find Kosher wine events including wine and is far more exciting than a paid salesman making a pitch. The Best Wines Released spirits classes at the Manhattan Jewish in the Last Twelve For Mouzouras the rewards of embrac- Community Center. Months – A Baker’s Dozen ing Kosher and Israeli wines go far beyond , Red, 2000 (K) 3. Be Tough On Kosher Wine a thriving business. (Under his leadership, Golan Heights Winery, Katzrin, And judge it as you would any other sales at Gotham Wines are up 40 percent 2000 (K) wine. While the Kosher list at Gotham over the past four years.) He is proof that Margalit, , Reserve, 2001 Wines numbers well over 400 selections, Kosher wines can hold broad appeal, and Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, 2001 Mouzouras does not aim to have the for those looking to expand their minds Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 2000 (K) most extensive list. “I don’t buy every- and palates the rewards can be great. “I Castel, “C” Blanc Du Castel, 2001 (K) thing Kosher I can find,” he cautions. “It think I get more appreciation with people Amphorae, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001 also has to be up to par and meet the knowing that I’m an outsider and yet I Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, same criteria as all of our wine. It has to have so much knowledge and respect.” Odem Organic Vineyard, 2002 (K) Golan Heights Winery taste like more than what it sells for.” When pouring for tastings or groups he , Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, Yarden (K) Thankfully, the task has grown far easier always is assisted by an observant partner, Carmel who is also wine knowledgeable, and is , Cabernet Sauvignon, Ramat Arad, as quality and diversity of Kosher wines 2000 (K) able to handle and pour the open bottles. have increased over the last 3-5 years. Barkan, , Reserve , 2001(K) “However, I actually have about five close Shopping the Gotham Wines Kosher sec- Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, tion you can find not just examples, but friends who keep Kosher who have told 2001 (K) choices of many popular wines. Long me it’s okay for me to pour them a non- Yatir, Ya’ar Yatir, 2001 (K) mevushal wine. It’s just the hugest com- gone are the days of sweet Concord juice. Reprinted with permission from We’re talking Argentine Malbec and pliment to me. That is too much to give Rogov’s Guide to Israeli Wines 2005 (Toby Press, 2004) Aussie Shiraz; Austrian ice wine and up,” he says. n K=Kosher