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$9.95 selecting the thewine selecting matches thedish that A Guide to Roger C. Bohmrich Master Wine of Created by really

Wineand W ine and Food Pairing A G u i d e

Selecting the Wine that Really Matches the Dish

In this guide...

Criteria for Food & Wine Pairing 1 Wine & Food Pairing Chart 2 & Wine Pairing Chart 10 Spicy Food & Wine Pairing Chart 16 Created by Roger C. Bohmrich, Master of Wine 22 Roger C. Bohmrich, Master of Wine Criteria for

F e at u r i n g t h r e e se par at e c h ar t s: All of us have probably experienced perfect occasions when the wine became one with the dish, but these • Wine & Food - General are individual, or at least not universal, experiences. Perhaps we should be thinking about the relationship • Cheese & Wine of more conceptually, and then selecting one of many from a “family” of styles that share • Spicy Food & Wine fundamental characteristics. We may find that attributes such as body, acidity, content and barrel aging count for more than grape variety in the realm of wine and food pairing.

Before you can pick wines by relying on their style profiles, you need to answer two crucial questions:

m What is the overall taste profile of the dish: light and subtle; sharp and herbal; full flavored and fatty; heavily seasoned or spiced? m What wine options share the same overall personality, or which would serve as an attractive contrast: light, dry white; aromatic and intense white; full-bodied, firmly defined red; refreshing or soft, ample red?

Since tastes vary significantly according to our unique personal experience and differing sensitivities, among many other factors, the guiding principle of food and wine pairing is to emphasize tolerance and flexibility. There is only one rule: there are no rules! In the guides that follow, many wine styles are offered as options within each grouping of food preparations.

Further alternatives can be found by consulting the WINE STYLE GUIDE that is an indispensable companion to this WINE and FOOD PAIRING GUIDE.

1 This chart is designed to be a quick yet comprehensive Wine & Food reference to identify the wine styles that are compatible with particular and preparation styles. Since palates differ Pairing Chart and flexibility is the guiding principle, there are many wine styles that are suggested for the same food. Remember, these Matching the wine style are guidelines, not rules! Charts follow for Spicy Food & Wine as well as to the dish Cheese & Wine.

Basic Food or W ine Styles Preparation Style Primary Examples Preferred Types

Appetizers & Salted nuts, potato chips, Sparkling wines (brut): H ors D’oeuvres, Light crackers, crusty breads/ , Crémant, NV, Blanc de Blancs, • Served hot or cold toast, dips (sour cream, Luxury Cuvées & equivalents, Prosecco yogurt, others) • Deep fried White wines, light to medium bodied: • Salty Fried seafood: Albariño, Gavi, Petit Chablis, Pinot Grigio, calamari, oysters Moschofilero, • Toasted • Fresh dairy Mild or salty , White wines, full-bodied: fresh or briefly aged: , Fino cream cheese, Parmigiano, Rosés (dry), light to medium bodied: young Fontina, young Champagne Brut Rosé, Costières de Nîmes, Manchego, Feta, Montrachet, Provence, Tavel common processed cheeses

Seafood & M eat: Seafood: carpaccio, mariné, Sparkling wines (brut): Raw, Smok ed or Cured clams & oysters on the Champagne NV, Blanc de Blancs • Served cold half shell, ceviche, smoked White wines, light to medium bodied: salmon/trout • Plain , Bordeaux (white), Chablis, , • Accented with citrus, fresh Seafood: caviar, other fish , herbs, olive oil, ginger, other eggs (except those common White wines, full-bodied: condiments to sushi noted below) Manzanilla Caviar can overwhelm fine sparkling wines. Spirits Rosés (dry), light to medium bodied: drinkers, try chilled vodka. Agiorghitiko Seafood: sushi/sashimi Sushi: including roes – salmon Assyrtiko, Pouilly- (ikura), flying fish(tobiko), Fumé, QbA, smelt (masago). Wine pairing Kabinett & Spätlese, varies by fish & amount of soy sauce, wasabi & pickled ginger Can be tricky for wine! Try chilled ginjo & daiginjo sake. Meats: tartare, carpaccio, prosciutto, jamon, jambon, saucisson. 2 3 W i ne & F ood Pai ri ng Chart Matching the wine style to the dish continued

Basic Food or W ine Styles Preparation Style Primary Examples Preferred Types

Soups, Salads & O ther Cold or hot soups, : White wines, light to medium bodied: Light Dishes: Simple, seafood (cioppino, Albariño, Bordeaux (white), Chablis, Gavi, Orvieto, Delicately Seasoned bouillabaisse, zuppa di pesce), /Bianco, Riesling, Rueda, Sancerre, • Prepared seafood vegetable & fish broths, Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino gazpacho, yogurt-based • Vegetables White wines, full-bodied: • Pasta & potatoes Salads & vegetables: seafood, Manzanilla chicken, tuna, composed & • Light white meats Rosés (dry), light to medium bodied: grilled vegetables, bruschetta Agiorghitiko, Champagne Brut Rosé Pasta/risotto/potatoes: & equivalent sparkling rosés, seafood, pesto, primavera, Provence, Tavel buttered, mashed Fish: grilled, poached, steamed white fish (flounder, sole), shellfish (mussels, oysters, clams), shrimp, squid White meats: pork (centercut), chicken breast

Cream Soups, Pasta, ty Soups: mushroom, clam/ White wines, light to medium bodied: Fish & W hite Meats: oyster chowder, vichyssoise, Chablis, Mâcon-Lugny, , Viré-Clessé Medium Seasonings stracciatella White wines, full bodied: • Mild cheese preparations Pasta/risotto: Fettucine Chablis Grand Cru, , Condrieu/, • Pasta & rice without meat Alfredo, ravioli (cheese, Falanghina, Pessac-Léognan, Pouilly-Fuissé, Meursault, • Richer white meats & fowl other non-meat fillings). Puligny-Montrachet, Corton-Charlemagne & other grands crus Beans: Navy, cannelloni, Red wines, light to medium bodied: black-eyed peas d’Asti, -Villages, Beaujolais crus, Fish: roasted, broiled, Bourgogne, Classico marinated rich/fatty fish Red wines, medium bodied (salmon, Chilean Sea Bass, except with lobster, crab, scallops: catfish), lobster, crab, scallops Bourgueil/Chinon, White meats: pork, veal chops or medallions, rabbit, chicken, pheasant, guinea fowl

4 5 W i ne & F ood Pai ri ng Chart Matching the wine style to the dish continued

Basic Food or W ine Styles Preparation Style Primary Examples Preferred Types

Full-flavored Foods Soups: hearty pea, bean, pasta Red wines, light to medium bodied: • Rich meat reductions, e fagioli, minestrone, beef Chianti, Côtes du Rhône, / Garnacha, , sauces, stocks barley, turtle Primitivo, /Shiraz, • Red meats Pasta/pizza/risotto/rice: Red wines, medium bodied: • Red sauces tomato sauces (marinara, Bandol, Bordeaux crus Puttanesca), meat sauces/ bourgeois, Bourgueil/Chinon, • Seasoned fare fillings (ravioli, lasagna), , mushroom sauces (morels, Chianti Classico, Côte de Beaune, porcini, hen of the woods) Crozes-Hermitage, , Beans, seasoned: pinto, black, Nemea, Pinot Noir, red, kidney crianza/reserva, St. Emilion Fowl: chicken, turkey, Concentrated, full bodied red wines: pheasant, quail, guinea fowl, , , Bordeaux crus classés, Brunello, , duck, ostrich Cabernet Sauvignon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Côte d’Or, «GSM», Pinot Noir, Pomerol, Priorat, Meats: beef (roasts, stews, Rioja Gran Reserva, St. Emilion grands crus classés, steaks), lamb (chops, leg), Syrah/Shiraz, others buffalo, sausages (chorizo, pork) Other dishes: jambalaya, paella

Fat ty, Strongly Meat: beef (ragout, short ribs, Concentrated, full bodied Flavored Foods marrow, barbecue), lamb red wines: • Hearty ragouts & stews (shanks, stews) , Amarone, Barolo, Brunello, Cabernet Sauvignon, • Game Game: venison, any wild game Cornas, Hermitage, Priorat, Syrah/Shiraz,

Desserts: Light & L ively Soups, salads: cold fruit Sweet dessert wines: • Fruit Tarts: apple, peach, apricot, Asti Spumante, Barsac/, Bonnezeaux, Moscato strawberry, etc. d’Asti, Riesling & SGN, Semillon, • Honey , • Nuts Pies: apple, peach, key lime, lemon chiffon Fortified sweet wines : • Butter pastry , Moscato, Tawny Port • May also have cream, eggs Cookies, cakes: biscotti, Special note: Avoid dry (brut) sparkling wines • Sorbet macaroons, almond tuiles, Madeleines, shortbread, with desserts! pound cake, strawberry shortcake, wedding cake Other lighter yet sweet desserts: baklava, kataifi, crèpes (apple)

6 7 W i ne & F ood Pai ri ng Chart Matching the wine style to the dish continued

Basic Food or W ine Styles Preparation Style Primary Examples Preferred Types

Desserts: Decadently Rich Pastries: Napoleon, éclair, Sweet dessert wines except with chocolate: • & coffee accents baba au rhum, profiteroles Bonnezeaux, Sauternes, Semillon, Tokaji, Vin Santo • Mocha, caramel, toffee Cookies, cakes: pralines, Fortified sweet wines : • Cream, butter, eggs cheesecake, dacquoise, Banyuls/Maury (rancio), , Cream Sherry, gingerbread, carrot cake & Liqueur Muscat/Tokay, Madeira (Bual, Malmsey), “PX”/ • Chocolate in all forms others with icing Montilla, Tawny Port/Colheita • Ice cream Pies: pecan, pumpkin, Fortified sweet wines mincemeat, Linzer, clafoutis for chocolate: Custards: flan, crème brûlée, Banyuls/Maury ( crème caramel, pana cotta & rancio), Madeira (Bual & Malmsey), Port (all red styles) Other rich desserts: Soufflés, puddings (rice, bread), meringue Chocolate: soufflé, mousse, cake, torte, fudge, truffles

8 9 Contrary to conventional wisdom, cheese and wine are not Cheese & Wine the most perfect of partners. The strong, sharp, pungent tastes of many cheeses together with the fatty coating they Pairing Chart leave on our tongues mask and compete with the fine points of wine. Often, white wines and fortified sweet wines are Matching the wine style better matches than dry reds, as you will see from this chart. to the cheese

Primary Examples W ine Styles Cheese T ype Country of Origin Preferred Types

Fresh Cheese: Cow & G oat Queso fresco (Mexico) Sparkling wines (brut): • Very mild, watery Paneer (India, USA) Cava, Champagne NV & equivalents, Crémant, Prosecco (both styles) • Young (without aging) Mozzarella, Ricotta (Italy, USA) White wines, light to medium bodied: Assyrtiko, Grüner Veltliner, Rueda, Sancerre, Boursin (seasoned), Sauvignon Blanc, Fromage blanc (France) Rosés (dry), light to medium bodied: Fresh goat (France, USA) Agiorghitiko, Lirac,Tavel Cottage & cream cheese (USA)

H ard Grating Cheese: Grana Padano, Parmigiano Sparkling wines (brut): Cow & Sheep Reggiano, Pecorino Romano Champagne NV & equivalents, • If served in chunks (Italy) Crémant, Prosecco (full pressure) as finger food Sbrinz (Switzerland) White wines, light to medium bodied: • Sharp, tangy, buttery Chablis, Mâcon-Villages, Orvieto, & salty Pinot Blanc/Bianco, Verdicchio Red wines, light to medium bodied: Barbera d’Asti, Beaujolais & crus,

Brined (P ick led) C heese: Feta (Bulgaria, Greece, others) White wines, light to medium bodied: Sheep, Goat & C ow Halloumi (Greece) Assyrtiko, Quincy, Sancerre, Verdicchio • Sharp, watery

Soft & F irm Cheese: Goat Brin d’Amour (herb-covered Sparkling wines (brut): • Mild to more pungent, sheep), Bucheron, Crottin Champagne NV & equivalents runny or dry, with age de Chavignol, Picodon White wines, light to (various), Montrachet, medium bodied: • Develop surface mold, or Sainte Maure, Selles-sur-Cher, covered in ash, leaves, etc. Mâcon-Villages, Petit Chablis, Valençay (France) Pinot Blanc/Bianco, Sancerre, Garrotxa, Monte Enebro Sauvignon Blanc (various), both firm (Spain) Verdicchio California Crottin, Classic Red wines, light to Blue Logs, Hoja Santa, medium bodied: Humboldt Fog, Piper’s Barbera d’Asti, Beaujolais, Pyramid, Wabash Chianti (basic), Dolcetto 10 Cannonball (USA) 11 Cheese & W i ne Pai ri ng Chart Matching the wine style to the cheese continued

Primary Examples W ine Styles Cheese T ype Country of Origin Preferred Types

Soft, H igh Fat Cheese: Boursault, Brie de Meaux, White wines, light to medium bodied: Cow Brillat-Savarin, Camembert Chablis, Mâcon-Villages, Orvieto, Pinot Blanc, Vouvray • Mild to flavorful as (firm), Chaource, White wines, full bodied: they ripen Coulommiers, Explorateur, Chardonnay, Meursault, Pouilly-Fuissé Pierre Robert, Saint André, • Rich texture Saint-Félicien (can be goat), Red wines, light to medium bodied: • Milky or creamy Saint-Marcellin, Vacherin Barbera d’Asti, Beaujolais & crus, Chianti (basic), Dolcetto • Some with surface mold Mont d’Or (France) Red wines, medium bodied: Robiola Rochetta, Bosina Bandol, Bordeaux crus bourgeois, Cabernet Sauvignon, (various milks) (Italy) Chianti Classico, Côte de Beaune, Coteaux du Languedoc, , Nemea, Pinot Noir, Rioja crianza/reserva, Constant Bliss, Nancy’s Hudson St. Émilion Valley Camembert (USA)

Soft, I ntensely Flavored Epoisses, Langres, Livarot, White wines, full bodied: Cheese: Cow Maroilles, Munster, Pont Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Meursault, Pouilly-Fuissé • Washed & colored l’Evêque, Reblochon (France) Concentrated, full bodied red wines: • Pungent & potent, Limburger (Germany) Aglianico, Amarone, Shiraz, Zinfandel sometimes stinky Gorgonzola,Taleggio dolce* Fortified sweet wines: (Italy) Banyuls & Maury (vintage), Azeitão (Portugal) sheep Vintage, Single Quinta & LBV Port Red Hawk (USA)

*delicate blue cheese

Semi-Firm to Firm Cheese: Cantal, Citeaux, Etorki, White wines, full bodied: Cow & Sheep Morbier, Ossau-Iraty, Petit Chablis Grand Cru, Hermitage • Gently pressed, or turned to Basque, Saint-Nectaire, (white) & Meursault with age drain excess liquid Tommes various (France) Red wines, light to (“cheddaring”) Idiazábal (unsmoked), medium bodied: • Mostly uncooked Mahón, Manchego, Roncal, Beaujolais crus, Bordeaux (basic), • Nutty & sweet Zamorano (Spain) Chianti (basic), Dolcetto Cheddar, Cheshire, Red wines, medium bodied: Gloucester, Leicester, Bandol Bordeaux crus bourgeois, Cabernet Sauvignon, (England) Chianti Classico, Côte de Beaune, Malbec, Montepulciano, Gouda, Edam young Nemea, Pinot Noir, Rioja reserva (Netherlands) Concentrated, full bodied red wines: Colby, Jack, Cabot Aglianico, Amarone, Bordeaux crus classés, Hermitage with Clothbound Cheddar, age, Nuits St. Georges, Pommard, Vermont Shepherd (USA)

12 13 Cheese & W i ne Pai ri ng Chart Matching the wine style to the cheese continued

Primary Examples W ine Styles Cheese T ype Country of Origin Preferred Types

Firm to Hard Cheese: Cow Beaufort, Comté, Mimolette White wines, light to medium bodied: • Pressed & cooked (France) Chablis, Mâcon-Villages, Pinot Blanc/Bianco • Buttery, richly flavored Asiago, Fontina Val d’Aosta, Red wines, light to medium bodied: Piave (Italy) Beaujolais crus, Bordeaux, Chianti (basic), Dolcetto Gouda aged, Roomano Concentrated, full bodied red wines: (Netherlands) Amarone, Ribera del Duero Emmental, Gruyère, Sbrinz, Tête de Moine (Switzerland)

Blue Cheese: Mainly Cow Bleu d’Auvergne, Fourme Concentrated, full bodied red wines: • Varying degrees of intensity d’Ambert, Roquefort sheep Amarone (and Recioto, its sweeter form), Zinfandel & mold (France) Sweet dessert wines: • Creamy or crumbly Gorgonzola piccante (Italy) Semillon, Young Sauternes • Tangy or bold Cabrales, Valdeón (Spain) Fortified sweet wines: • Sweet wines offset the Shropshire Blue, Stilton Banyuls/Maury (Vintage & rancio), Cream Sherry, pungency (England) Madeira (Bual, Malmsey), Montilla, “PX,” Single Quinta & LBV Port Bartlett Blue, Crater Lake Blue, Great Hill Blue, Point Reyes, Maytag Blue (USA)

14 15 No category of food is as challenging for wine as spicy food! Spicy Food & Dishes that are truly incendiary completely destroy any wine. Spicy food lovers should not despair as there are many wines Wine Pairing which can stand up to moderately hot or very hot dishes, even if the wine’s subtleties may be compromised. Chart Lovers of hot food, don’t despair! Consult this chart to find “fireproof” wines. Matching the wine style to the heat

Spicy Food W ine Styles and Preparations Primary Examples Preferred Types

Sauces & Salsas: Fresh, Vietnamese dipping sauce White wines, light to medium bodied: Fermented & P ick led (nuoc cham) Riesling, Rueda, Sauvignon Blanc, Verdicchio • Fresh ingredients Thai shrimp sauce (nam prik) Rosés (dry), light to medium bodied: • Green herbs (cilantro) Indonesian red chile paste Agiorghitiko • Sharp (acidic) (sambal oelek) White wines, full bodied: • Fish sauces Korean fermented cabbage Riesling (Australia), (kimchi) Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand) Indian pickles (lime, mango), mint & coriander chutneys Mexican salsa cruda, pico de gallo (Note: habanero peppers are “wine killers”)

Sauces & Salsas: Vietnamese spicy hoisin Rosés (dry), light to medium bodied: R ich & Sweet (tuong den) Agiorghitiko • Prepared or seasoned Thai roasted chile paste Red wines, light to medium bodied: ingredients (nam prik pao) Côtes du Rhône, Grenache/Garnacha • Dried peppers Indian fruit, tamarind Red wines, medium bodied: • Spices & oils chutneys Bandol, Côtes du Rhône-Villages, Montepulciano Indonesian sweet chile sauce Concentrated, full bodied red wines: (sambal manis pedas), hot Châteauneuf-du-Pape, «GSM», Syrah/Shiraz peanut sauce (14% alcohol or less) Korean chile-bean paste (ssamjang) Chinese chile paste with garlic Mexican salsas, sauces & marinades using chipotle, guajillo, cascabel & other dried peppers

16 17 Spi cy Food & W i ne Pai ri ng Chart Matching the wine style to the heat continued

Spicy Food W ine Styles and Preparations Primary Examples Preferred Types

Soups: Devilishly H ot Chinese hot & sour Sour, pungent fish soups • Chicken or fish broth-based Thai Tom Yum Goong, Tom White wines, full bodied: Riesling (Australia), Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand) • Coconut milk Yum Gai & similar sour-spicy Thai chicken coconut Coconut-based soups White wines, light to medium bodied: Chardonnay (California), Mâcon-Villages, Pinot Blanc

Soups: H earty & M eaty Vietnamese Pho* Rosés (dry), light to medium bodied: • Bean (beef in broth) Costières de Nîmes, Côtes du Rhône, Navarra, Provence, Tavel • Meat Indian lentil & split pea • Sausage Spicy black bean Red wines, light to medium bodied: Gumbo with andouille Côtes du Rhône, Grenache/ sausage Garnacha, Merlot, Rioja joven *if nuoc cham or chile sauce is added

Seafood & W hite Meats: Ceviche with chile peppers White wines, light to medium bodied: H ot & H erbal Thai marinated squid & Gavi, Riesling, Rueda, Sancerre, Sauvignon Blanc, • Served hot or cold shrimp salad Verdicchio, Vouvray • Fresh peppers Other spicy seafood & Rosés (dry), light to medium bodied: • Salads noodle salads Agiorghitiko, Provence, Tavel • Dry rubs Cajun catfish White wines, full bodied: Riesling (Australia), Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand) • Salty, pungent and sharp Fish tikka (acidic) seasonings Fish tacos with jalapeno salsa New Mexican pork with green chile sauce Jerk chicken (Note: Scotch Bonnet peppers are “wine killers”)

18 19 Spi cy Food & W i ne Pai ri ng Chart Matching the wine style to the heat continued

Spicy Food W ine Styles and Preparations Primary Examples Preferred Types

Seafood & L ight Meats: Whole fish, deep fried White wines, light to medium bodied: I ntense & C omplex (Thai, Szechwan) Mâcon-Lugny, Pinot Bianco, Soave, Torrontes, Viré-Clessé, Vouvray Fried Rice, Noodles & Thai chicken coconut Bean Curd curries, duck, ground Rosés (dry), light to medium bodied: • Richer or sweetened sauces chicken & toasted rice Bandol, Provence, Tavel • Coconut milk sauces Kung Pao chicken White wines, full bodied: • Spices & oils Vietnamese lemon grass Chardonnay (California), Falanghina, Pinot Gris (Alsace), chicken* Pouilly-Fuissé, Gewürztraminer Indian chicken curry with Red wines, light to medium bodied: saffron or yogurt & cashews Côtes du Rhône, Grenache/Garnacha, Merlot, Primitivo, Rioja joven Goan coconut curries Red wines, medium bodied : Barbecued pork ribs Côtes du Rhône-Villages, Fried rice noodle dishes Montepulciano like Pad Thai Szechwan noodles, bean curd

*if nuoc cham or chile sauce is added

Meats & P oultry: Chicken tikka masala, Potent & F iery Jhalfrezi Red wines, light to medium bodied: •Intense seasonings Szechwan beef Côtes du Rhône, Grenache/Garnacha, Primitivo, Syrah/Shiraz •Rich sauces Hunan lamb, duck Red wines, medium bodied : Indian lamb vindaloo, saag, Côtes du Rhône-Villages, Malbec, Montepulciano, daal gosht, keema dum Rioja reserva Beef chili with kidney beans Concentrated, full bodied red wines: Mexican chicken mole, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, «GSM», Zinfandel, Syrah/Shiraz if spicy (14% alcohol or less) Enchiladas with ranchera sauce

20 21 Roger has enjoyed a long career in the wine trade. Currently, he is managing partner of Millesima USA, a retail entity affiliated with Europe’s leading fine wine mail order company. In 1993, he was one of the first Americans – now numbering about two dozen – to acquire the prestigious Master of Wine® title (“MW”). Roger’s passion for food has its origins in an unusual childhood living in Asia, Europe and the Middle East as the son of a diplomat. As a senior executive of a well-known wine importer, he traveled regularly abroad to visit and taste the new vintage from barrel. His travels also immersed him in a marvelous world of and diverse cuisines, and his kitchen is decorated with menus he has collected from memorable meals. Roger has been a dedicated home chef for more than two decades, and he regularly prepares Indian and Thai food, among other cuisines.

22 As seen in Sante Magazine for Professionals, March ‘09

© Roger C Bohmrich 2009