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To Pair Or Not to Pair?

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To Pair Or Not to Pair? Whether I’m in Shanghai, Seoul or Singapore, able instinctively to understand the structure and all too often people tell me they don’t drink quality of wines. During my Great Wines of Italy wine because they don’t feel they know enough event in Shanghai last November, I had many about it. I always retort that they shouldn’t young wine lovers tell me how much they liked worry about it – just open a bottle and gain the Barolos on pour, and how they preferred the some experience. Truly, wine appreciation tannic reds to the more acidic Brunellos. Some and knowledge is acquired through the act of of them had never tasted these wines before, but drinking; it’s quite simple in the end, and not as they had intuitive thoughts and opinions that complex as wine and food pairing. were absolutely valid. Western winemakers often come to China I head out to Chinese restaurants all the time in and talk in broad terms about how well their Hong Kong with local wine lovers and collectors, wines go with Chinese food, and how important and I promise you that they are not thinking food and wine pairing is here today. But I about food-and-wine pairings when we’re at the believe people in this part of the world see food table. That’s the beauty of Chinese dining. We sit and wine as separate pleasures to be enjoyed down, the food arrives, and we consume different simultaneously, but not as deliberately combined dishes with a range of different wines – one after pairings. It’s a much more organic approach to another, and then all together. I know one famous food and wine than the traditional, prescribed- wine collector who usually organises what he pairing approach. calls his “wine bar” – a table full of amazing My son, the web editor of JamesSuckling.com, bottles that his guests try at their leisure. recently went to an Australian wine tasting in It’s also why I’ve insisted on serving Chinese Hong Kong for the launch of new wines that food at our Great Wines events. I think the food were supposedly tailor-made for the Chinese in China is vastly versatile and wine-friendly, market – and for Chinese cuisine. The winery with the exception of some extremely spicy wrote in an email: “There has been a growing dishes. More importantly, I want attendees to interest in pairing wine with Chinese food – try the wines with the foods they eat on a regular for more, visit the traditional wines that would normally be basis. It’s not about the pairing itself; it’s about consumed during these meals are being traded understanding how to enjoy wine in Asia. and jamessuckling.com for new and more interesting varieties from different wine-producing regions. Our new Chardonnay 2010 is a great example of this – it is paired incredibly well with suckling pig.” In fact, I believe that Chinese food goes DINNER WINES TO B-HOLD with just about any wine. I enjoy Brunello and Barolo with Peking duck. I also regularly drink red Burgundy with steamed prawns in garlic No matter the cuisine, I have a few favourite categories for general pairings – and they all start sauce, and enjoy Barossa Shiraz with stewed with a “B”: Bordeaux, Burgundy, Brunello di Montalcino, Bolgheri and Barolo. Here’s one to try beef and spicy red peppers. A few months ago, I from each of those categories: experienced one of the most memorable food- and-wine combinations ever – a 2001 d’Yquem 2004 château LéoviLLe 2004 casteLLo Banfi Sassicaia built the reputation with deep-fried eel in a sweet-and-sour sauce. Las cases st-JuLien BruneLLo Di of the region, however. The To Pair or Not to Pair? The wine drinkers’ first-growth montaLcino poggio 2004 is coming into its own The sweetness of the young Sauternes turned into pure exotic tropical fruits when paired with Bordeaux, though officially aLL’oro riserva now with plum, currants, WITH THE RISE OF ASIA CHANGIng THE WORLD’S WINE MAP, JAMES a second growth. Just starting I am a big fan of single- cassis and chocolate on both SUCKLING SHARES HIS OPINIONS ON PAIRING WITH CHINESE CUISINES the spicy, sugary sauce. to drink now with currant, vineyard wines from Tuscany’s the nose and palate. Full- But Chinese drinkers already have a unique blackberry, vanilla, and hints of most famous appellation. bodied, with soft tannins. approach to wine that should be encouraged and fresh herb. Polished on the Poggio all’Oro is a beautiful Drink now. 94 points not modified. They have incredibly sophisticated palate. 95 points vineyard that produced in rinking wine in No one talks about white with fish or 2004 a wine with wonderful 2004 Bruno giacosa palates due to daily food experiences with so 2009 Joseph Drouhin character of meat, dark fruit, BaroLo Le rocche DeL China is an enriching red with meat, or something much many different flavours and styles. And, most Beaune premier cru autumn leaves and hints of faLLetto riserva hot topic experience much as more specific such as high-acidity food importantly, when wine is at the table, they tend cLos Des mouches chocolate. Full and super-silky Barolo is the Burgundy of Italy, James Suckling to taste the food first and then taste the wine BLanc There’s nothing else textured. 95 points and Bruno Giacosa is the it is in other parts of with low-acidity wines. Rigid food and out there like white Burgundy. master of Barolo. Amazing believes Chinese with very little, if any, aim of finding the perfect food is wine- Asia – it’s fun and wine pairing rules don’t need to be Dense, with amazing honey, 2004 tenuta san guiDo wine with so much raspberry friendly as food-and-wine match. sliced tropical fruit and vanilla. BoLgheri sassicaia and mineral character. Dense long as it’s not relaxing. There are established; they act as barriers to the I’m constantly impressed by comments from Long and intense – drink now. This region is still very little but very balanced with silky 95 points known on Tuscany’s coast. tannins. 97 points too spicy Dno rules for food and wine pairing. act of enjoying and drinking wine. king fung image: fledgling wine drinkers in China. They seem to be hong kong tatler 62 february 2014 hong kong tatler 63 february 2014.
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