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INDEX

A The Exemplary Nature of a Symbiosis Barrier to imitation 46 Acid (in and ) 107–111 between Food Dishes and Barsac (wine) 291 acetic 107 Cognacs 150–153 Basics of wine evaluation 23–26 citric 107, 109 The and Food Basque 235 in food 110 Perspective 5–8 Baton Rouge 68 in wine 108 Which to Choose First, Wine or Bayou La Seine 190 lactic 107 Food? 102 Bazzoni, Enrico 5, 8 levels 109, 119, 121, 123, 125 Appellation 55 Beamsville Bench 208 malic 107 Appellation d’Origine Controˆle´e (AOC) 29, 84, 109, 158, 192, 260, tartaric 107 30, 55, 59, 79 298 types Arbois (wine) 191 Beerenauslese 292 Acidity 32, 33, 102, 103, 107, 134, 170 Archestratus 6 Bentwood box cookery 235 Adaptation (to sensations) 26 Archetypal ingredients 78 Beurre blanc 224 Affective testing 22 Armagnac 295 Bianco di Custoza 195 Aftertaste 216 Aroma 24, 28 Bias 26 Aging (wine) 159, 272 wheel 24 Biscotti 302 Agri-food systems 46 quality 24 Bitterness 32, 33, 138 level 104, 156, 270 Aromatic compounds 24 in 272 Aligote´ (wine) 136 Artichokes 224 in food 133 Alois Lageder, Pinot Bianco 16 Asiago 278 in food and wine pairing Alsace 291 Asparagus 224 in wine 132 Alto Adige 15 Asti Spumate 299 Amarone 278, 292, 297 Astringency 32, 154, 155 how to identify 32 American Culinary Federation (ACF) 68 Attitude 311 Bittersweet Plantation 49, 67 American Viticultural Area (AVA) 55 Auslese 170, 292 Black 294 Amerine 52 COPYRIGHTEDAutochthonous vines 6 MATERIALBlackening 171 Amontillado 213, 294 Blanc de Blancs 133 Analytical testing 22 Blanc de Noirs 133 Anti-Saloon League 57 B Blaufra¨nkisch 242 Aperitif(s) Blind tasting 26 Baby Duck (wine) 288 Bayou La Seine: An American 31 in paris 190–193 Badia di Coltibuono 14 Baked goods 301 Blue-veined 279 Canoe Restaurant and Bar 168–169 Bluysen, Frederic 190 Chef John Folse & Company 67–69 Baking 171 Bluysen, Judith 190 Elements of Wine Service 20–22 Balance Body 158, 170, 182 Food and Wine of the Pacific between wine and cheese 272, 280 Northwest 234–237 between wine and food elements 9–11, as texture 154, 168, 171 How Should Menus and Wine Lists 253–263 in wine 133 Be Organized 46–48 in wine 107–108 in 172 Peller Estates 130–131 104, 105 Boise 235, 236 Release Weekend Wine and Food 158, 160, 174, 278 Boissy, Etienne 270, 271 Menu from On the Twenty 210– Barding 244 Bone dry 104 211 104, 112, 160, 277, 278 Bordeaux 83, 291 317 318 Index

Botrytis cinerea 291–292 grating 278 rhetoric 78 affected wines 291 Gjetost 278 tourism 78 Bottle opening 20–21 hard 278 Custard 296 Bouquet 24, 25, 28 semi-soft 273, 275 desserts 296 Braising 171 soft ripened 275, 276 Bread pudding 296 Cheese-friendly 272 D Brie 276 Chef John Folse & Company 67 Danhi 49 Brights’ President (wine) 288 Chef John Folse Culinary Institute at Danish Blue Castello 278 Brillat Savarin 276 Nicholls State University 67 Dante’s Inferno 6 British Columbia 235, 236 29, 84, 158, 277, 278 David Hill 247 Brock University Cool Climate Classico 14, 277, 278 de Gaulle, Charles 276 and Institute Chiles 80 Decision tree 231, 253, 254 (CCOVI) 131 Chocolate 297 Deep-frying 171 Brodi, Tom 168 dark 297 Degustation menu 312 Broiling 171 desserts 297 Degree days 51 Brut 135 milk 297 Demi-sec 135 nature 134 white 297 296, 298 Bubbles 24 Chocolate-based dessert pairing decision 135, 298, 300, 302 Buhler, Lawrence 130 process 298 Demisecco 294 Buttery (flavors) 108, 214 Church, Philip 236 Denominac¸a˜o de origem controlada 55 Citrus desserts 299 Denominacio´n de origen 55 Clarity 23 Denominacio´n de origen calificada 55 C Classic wine and food marriages 84 Denominazione di origine controllata 6, 158, 174, 275 Classic wine 30 55 29, 30, 158, 39, Clearwater River Valley 236 Denominazione di origine controllata e 174, 194, 277, 297 Climate 51, 79 garantita 55 Cahors (region) 89 map 52 Dentzer, Yvelise 150, 153, 271 Cajun and Creole cuisine 67, 190 zones 53 Dessert(s) Cajun Trinity 191 Cognac 150 based on nuts 300–301 Cakes 301 Collagen structure 171 breads 301 California 294 Color 23 categories 295 Canada Columbia River 235 wines 289–295 Green Building Council 50 Columbia Valley 55, 236, 241 Diacetyl 108 Canadian 50 Commander’s Palace 49 DiDio, Tony 17 288, 290 Competitive advantage 309 Differentiation 310 Canopy climate 52 Components 11 Dıˆner Symbiose 152 Cantal 277, 278 Concord grapes 288 Distinctive capability 309 Capabilities 56, 82 Consistency 24 Distinguished of North Cap Classique 133 Contribution margins 47 America (DIRo˜NA) 68 Capsicum peppers 80, 190 Cookies 301 Dolce 294 Carbon dioxide 133 Cooking method 170 155, 160 Carbonation 24 Cool climate (zone) 51, 53, 60 Dom Pe´rignon 31, 58 Carneros (AVA) 52 Corked (wine) 21 Domaine de Clovallon (winery) 50 Cassati alla Siciliana (dessert) 302 Corks 21 Donaldsonville 66 Castling, Catherine 50 21 Dosage 130, 289 100, 133, 135 Corte´s, Hernando 56 Double and triple cream cheeses 275 Cave Spring Cellars 208 (grapes) 292 Doux sparkling wines 135, 300 Caviar 9, 132 Cost percentage method 47, 48 Dried Cedar planks 243 Coste, Pierre 29 fruits 292, 299 Ce´rons 291 Costigliole d’Asti 6, 7 (s) 292, 293 Ce´vennes 79 Coˆte d’Or 52 grape and late processes 291, Champagne 58, 134, 297, 298, 301 Coˆte de Beaune 60 292 30, 38, 60, 75, 133, 158, CoˆteduRhoˆ ne 245, 277 grape wines 292, 301, 302 256, 265, 277, 279 Coˆte Roˆ tie 245 Dry 294 Chateau St. Michelle 240 Court of Two Sisters restaurant 68 heat cooking method 171 Eroica 240 Cream 274 movement 57 Cheese(s) Cream 294 sherry 294 blue 278 Cre`me brulee 296 White Port 294 blue-veined 278, 279 Crepes Suzette 298 294 che`vre 273 Crisp 107 Duxelles 93 cottage 273 Cryo-Cluster 290 Cougar Gold cheddar 246 Cryoextraction 290 cream 273 Culinary E fresh and soft 273, 274 etiquette 49 Earthy (flavor) 59, 212 firm 277 identity 49 Eberspaecher, Alex 188 Index 319

Edelfa¨ule 291 Cajun Matriochka 191 smoked corn and chicken pasta and Effervescence 24, 131, 135, 136, 138 Cajun pralines 76 258 Eiswein 288, 290 Caesar salad 266 soul pork roast 75 Elmer, Ruben 168 cedar-planked Idaho Rainbow trout -cured salmon with spring radish, Entrepreneurs 68 served with citrus-dusted melon, yogurt, and Abiti caviar Epernay yeast 130 asparagus tips and micro-greens 169 Escoffier 78 244 strawberries served ‘‘au naturel’’ 299 Ethnic chicken & sausage gumbo 70 sweet and spicy chicken etouffee 74 diversity 57 chicken en papillote 183 tiramisu 297 flavors and influences 49 classic hollandaise sauce 227 voodoo greens 72 Evaluation sheets 29 coq au vin 83 walnut lacey cookie cup filled with Extract 25, 154, 157 crab cakes Rex 73 homemade vanilla ice cream and Extra dry 135 dark chocolate truffle tart, roasted pine strawberry-rhubarb sauce 248 nuts and cre`me fraiche 169 white truffle risotto 94 duxelles 93 Fortified Muscats 294 F egg pappardelle alla lepre 15 Fortified wines 292–295 Fabric sample reference anchors 155 fiesta macque choux salad 71 French False fine wine 29 ‘‘fire and ice’’ Northwest oysters 240 national 29 Fanet 59 French onion soup 93 nouvelle cuisine 78 (s) 169 geoduck sashimi 241 barrels animal and dairy 172, 256 Grand River venison loin, oka poutine, Onion Soup 93 plant-based 110 kumquats and mulled red cabbage 9 Fendant 24, 135 169 Quarter 69 Fermentation 271 gratin of sea urchin and scallops with Frizzante 135 Finish 26, 216 Cognac 151 Frog’s Leap 50 final de boca 216 grilled beef sirloin 267 Fromage blanc 273, 274 fin de bouche 216 grilled fish 227 Frostbite 290 Fino Sherry 171, 213, 294 grilled pork loin with mustard and Frozen grape wines 290 molasses 184 Flabby 32 Fructooligosaccharides (FOS) 104 grilled portobello mushrooms 94 Flavor(s) 12, 208 Fructose 104 Mardi Gras king cake 77 categories 210 Fruit marinated asparagus with prosciutto di contrasting 210 desserts 298, 299 Langhirano 16 dominant 208 flavors in dessert wines 291, 299 onion rings 92 intensity 25, 214, 215 flavors in fortified wines 292–295 oysters Marie Laveau 70 layering 190 flavor in wine 51 panang curry 10 perception 210 type 299 pasta al pesto 226 persistency 26, 216 Fruit-forward wines 59, 199 pasta mixtures 124 profiles 217 Fume´ Blanc 119 pecan pie 301 similar 210 Fusion 81 peach Melba 298 types 211 peaches in Champagne 298 Floc de Gascogne 294 plums poached in 298 Foie gras 169 G poached pears 298 Folse, John 67 Gastronomic identity 46, 47, 48, 50, 66, pumpkin pie 296 Food and Wine of the Pacific Northwest roasted Columbia Basin pheasant 82, 85, 234, 308 238 marinated in grappa with German in Italy 82 Food and Wine Pyramid 11, 98 bread dumplings 243 Gastronomy 46, 67, 150 Food roasted 92 Gavi 195 and-wine evaluation 249 roasted loin of venison with smoked General Menu Planning 237 evaluation 249 trio of beets and demi-glace Geoduck clams 241 fattiness 176, 177 246 Geography 46, 79 habits 56 Rouge Creamery Oregonzola and German intensity and persistency level 208 Washington State Cougar Gold Beerenauslese 290 Sensory Anchor Scale 98, 99 cheddar served with thyme- dumpling (servietten kno¨ del) 241 Sensory Pyramid 13 infused honey, apricot-orange Eiswein 288, 290 spice level 197–198 conserve and dried cherry- Kabinett 10, 171 Food Item(s) hazelnut compote 247 10 Asian chowder of coconut, smoked salade Lyonnaise 109 Spatlese 290 lingcod, and geoduck clam salad of beef, arugula, with roast garlic Gewu¨rztraminer 104, 190, 241, 300 sashimi 241 vinaigrette and Beaujolais 259, Gjetost 278 baklava 301 262 Globalization 81 bananas Foster 298 shrimp and melon with mint-curry Glycerin 24, 31 bistecca alla fiorentina 83 cream 266 Gorbachev, Mikhail 67 black truffle potatoes 94 simmered La Ferme foie gras, Beluga Gorgonzola 278, 279 braised beef in red 185 lentils, celery root and cocoa nibs Gouda 277, 278 Cajun Boudin Blanc 191 169 Grappa 56, 241 320 Index

Grassiness 38 213 J sweetness levels 294 (region) 60 Jarlsberg 277, 278 Mascarpone 273, 274 Greek Muscat 302 Jean Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop 69 Mateus (wine) 31 Grilling 171 Jean Moulin Lyon III University 153 Matriochka 191 Gru¨ner-Veltliner 224, 278 Jura region 190 Maturation process 270 Gruye`re 277, 278 Maytag Blue Cheese 278, 279 McCrea Cellars 245 K H McCrea, Doug 245 Kekfrankos 242 Meˆdoc (wine) 60 Hammond 272 Key food pairing elements 251 Meilleur Ouvrier de de Fromage Ha¨nig, D. 150 Key wine pairing elements 250 270 Harazathy, Agoston 57 Kiona (wines) 242 Menu(s) 49 Harmonization 160 Kirrage, Paul James 153 and wine list pricing 48 Harrington 272 Kir 136 aesthetic factors 49 Heat summation organization 47 units 51, 53 pattern 47 method 51 L presentation 47 Hennessy 150 Label drinkers 29 planning 47 Herbaceous 38, 213 Lafitte’s Landing Restaurant 67 30, 38, 158, 160, 194 Herbal 194 Lag time 217 Meso-climates 52 Herbs 192 Lake, David 245 Me´thode Champenoise 130, 133 Hill, David 247 Lambrusco 6 Meunier 133 Hilling 51 Late harvest wines 103, 291, 292, 298, Micro-climates 52 Hollandaise Sauce 224 299, 300 Micro-oxygenation 160 Horizontal and Vertical Pairing Le concours du Meilleur Ouvrier de Milan 82 Decisions 237 France 270 Mission San Diego 57 Horse Heaven Hills 55 Le Diner Symbiose 152 Mixed tasting 230 Hot Leadership in Energy and Environmental Moist cooking methods 171 peppers 194 Design (LEED) 50 Molinara grapes 292 193, 195 Legs (tears) 24 Mondavi, Robert 119 How persistency is measured 217 Lemberger 194, 242 Moscato 24 How spice is assessed 195–198 Length 26, 216 d’Asti 31, 136, 213, 297, 298, 301 Hue 7 Length of soak 155 Lercara, Gianfranco 6 di Pantelleria Passito 302 Passito 302 I Level of alcohol 156 134, 291 Ice cream 296 of match 177, 283 Moses Lake, Washington 241 Ice Wine 288, 297 of sweetness 99, 100, 105 Mousse 296 Sparkler 289 Lewiston 236 Mouth-coating 297 Idaho 235, 236 Light-to-light and rich-to-rich matching Mouth-feel 12, 153, 155, 168 Identity movement 78 146 wheel 155 Indicazione geografica (IGT) 55 Lighting (during wine evaluation) 27 Muscat(s) 294, 301 INAO (Institut National des Appellation 107, 291 de Beaumes 300 d’Origine) 27 Longitude (length) 216 Hamburg 294, 297, 300, 301 Indigenous Longueur (length) 216 ingredients 234 Louisiana cuisine 190 products 50 N Lugana 195 Individual differences 210 Nahe 291 Lyon (France) 153, 271 In-mouth 212 Napa Valley 52, 55, 61 flavor evaluation 212 Naples 82 smells 212 M Nasal cavity 212, 217 Inn On The Twenty 208 Macque Choux 71 31 Inniskillin 136, 288 Macro-climate 52 Neufchaˆtel 273, 274 Intensity 195, 210 Madeira 278, 294, 297, 300, 301, 302 Neutral brandy 292 Interaction Madeleines 302 New World 46, 59, 61 between wine and food sweetness 106– 199 Niagara 107 108, 160, 213 College Teaching Winery 289, 302 of food spice types and wine Maniaci, Kevin 208 Escarpment 52, 210 198–200 sherry 171, 294 grape 288 wine and food flavor intensity 215–216 Mapping of the tongue 33–35 Ice Wine 288–291 wine and food flavor persistency 217 Marche´ aux Truffe 89 Niagara-on-the-Lake 130 Innovations 57, 81 Mardi Gras 69 Nightinggale, Alice and Myron 292 Intimidation 48 Mark-up method 47, 49 Noble, Ann C. 24 Italian Culinary Institute for Foreign Marsala 294, 297, 301, 302 103, 291 Professionals 5, 7, 26 colors 294 Nosing steps 24 Index 321

Nouvelle cuisine 78 Pepper 194 Riesling 37, 104 Nut-based dessert 300 Perceived level of match 9, 10, 253–254 ice wine 299 Nuts 300 Persistence 216, 217 Rio Negro 52 Nutty 213 Persistency 210 Ripening procedure 272 Pe´tillant 135 Risotto alla Milanese 82 O Peynaud 156 Rispal, Philippe 150, 153 Phalernum 6 Roasting 171 Oak 25 pH scale 108 Rogue Valley (AVA) 236 aging 157 Physiological factors (during tasting) 26, Roseburg, Oregon 236 Alley Plantation 68 208 Romano (cheese) 278 barrels 157 Pinot Rome 82 Oakville Bench 55 Bianco 15, 17 Rondinella (grapes) 292 Odor blindness 27 Menuriur 133 Roquefort 278, 279 Odors, foreign 28 Noir 9, 38, 133, 301 Ruby Port 293, 297, 301 Okanagan Pipes (barrels) 294 Rutherford (AVA) 55 Ice Wine 291 Plateau time 217 Valley 52, 236 Polymerization 160 Old World 46, 59, 61 Popeyes Chicken and Biscuits 49 S Olfactory examination 24 Port 293, 297, 302 ‘‘Ss’’ of wine evaluation 23 Oliver Bonacini Restaurants 168 Portland 236 Sabayon 297 Oloroso Sherry 294, 297, 300, 302 Portobellos 90 Sainte Chapelle Winery 236 Olympia oysters 240 Potassium chloride 131 Sake 195 On the Twenty Restaurant 210 Pourriture noble 291 Salmon 235 Ontario Power 146, 154, 169 Salt 131 ice wine 288–291 Pricing psychology 47 Saltiness 32, 33, 138 wine producers 291 Primary components 98 Sancerre 83, 104, 109 Oporto 293 Prime cost 47 8, 14 Opus One 31 Prince Edward Island 57 Sauer, Mike 245 Oral cavity 212, 217 Profiles (food and wine) 253 Saumur Champigny (region) 192 Orange Muscat 294, 297, 301, 302 Progressive wine list 48 24, 291, 297, 299 Orchard fruit desserts 299 57 Sauvignon Blanc 9, 29, 30, 38, 85, 158, Ordering wine in a restaurant 102 Prosciutto di San Daniele 6 256 Oregon 235, 236 Protein 170 Savor 25 Oxidation 58 Psychological factors (during tasting) 26, Savory spices 195, 198 208 Seasoning 194 P Psycho-sociology of taste 151 Sec 135 Pacific Northwest 234, 236 Puckery 32, 33 Secco 294 menu 238 Pungent 38 Sekt (German sparkling) 133 recipes 240–248 Puttonyos (botrytis amount) 291 Se´millon 297, 299 Pacific Rim 234 PX Sherry 297, 300 Semi-soft cheeses 273, 275 Palate Semi-sparkling wine 135 cleansing 131 Q Sensory 22–28 fatigue 26 anchor scales 98–100 Qualita¨tswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete mapping 33–35 evaluation 22, 32 55 Palouse Hills 235 fatigue 239, 270 Qualita¨tswein mit Pra¨dikat 55 Panang curry 10 symbioses 150 Quebec 57 Pandozy, Father Charles 236 Sequential tasting 230, 249 Pan-frying 171 Serra, Junı´pero 57 Pannacotta 296 R Serving temperature (wine) 29 Parmigiano-Reggiano 278 Raisin wines 292 Setting up a tasting session 27 Passio 103 Raisined 103, 292 Sherry 294, 297 Passito 292 Rattlesnake Hills (AVA) 245 Shiraz 30, 75, 193, 199 Pastry cream 296 Recioto 292 Sipping 25 Paul Bocuse Institute 150, 153, 270, 271 Recipes (see Food Items) Slightly sparkling wine 135 Pavan, Angelo 210 Reagan, Ronald 66 Slow Food 79 Pectin 24 Red Mountain appellation 242 Smoky 213 Peller, Andrew 130 245 (wine) 195 Peller Estates 130 Research Chefs Association (RCA) 67 Sodium chloride 131 Ice Cuvee VQA 130 Residual sugar 104 Sodium glutamate 131 Winery 130 Retronasal 25, 208, 212 Sofitel Royal hotel-school 150 Penicillium Reverse marinade 157 Soft-ripened cheeses 275, 276 glaucum 278 Rhine 291 Sparkling wine 133–136 roqueforti 278 Rhubarb 247 Spa¨tlese (wine) 10, 170, 292 Pennachetti, Leonard 210 Ricotta 273, 274, 278 Special select late harvest 292 322 Index

Spice(s) 190, 192, 194, 195 The New American Cheese 272 Visual examination 23 level 195 Time-intensity curve 217 Viticulture practices 58 sweet 195 Tiramisu 297 Labrusca grapes 288 Spicy 193 Tocai del Collio 6 Vivaldi, Antonio 5 Spitting 25 Volatile acidity 110 Spittoon 27 Eszencia 291 104, 297 Spumante 133 wine 291, 302 Stags Leap District 55 Tomato & Herb Fest 69 W Standard tasting glass 27 Torino 79 Walla Walla Valley 236 Steaming 171 Tourism 46, 85 Walsh, Anthony 168 Ste-Croix-du-Mont (region) 291 Touristic 86 Warm zones 51, 54, 60 Stewart, Anita 235 Tourists 78 Washington Stewart, Jeff 288 Trade 81 State 55, 234, 236 Stilton 83, 278, 279 Training issues 310 State University 236 Stir-frying 171 Traminer (grape) 193 State University Creamery 246 Stirring It Up 67 Aromatico 193 Weight 146, 169 Stratus 50 Trial and error 57, 82 Werlin, Laura 272 Strohwein 292 Trius Brut VQA 130 White Oak Plantation 68 Structure 47, 146, 154 Trockenbeerenauslese 292 White Port 297, 298 Sub-appellations 55 Tropical fruit desserts 299 White 100, 104 Sugar 105 Tuiles 302 Willamette Valley 235 Sulfur 104 191 Williams, John 50 dioxide 110 Tuscany 82 Wine Summers, Rob 131 anchor references sheet 100 Superiore 294 U and cheese pairing 283 Riserva 294 and food pairing instrument 234, 252 Sur lies 51, 130 Umami 31, 46, 212 big six 30 Sustainable farming 50 Umqua Valley 236 brand-name 31 Swallow 25 United States cellar 48 Sweetness 33, 102, 103, 105, 112, 113, Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade cellaring 159 114, 134, 295 Bureau 55 descriptions 30 Swirl 23 Green Building Council 50 evaluation process 249 Synergistic 208, 272, 310 law 50 flavor categories 213 Synergy 6, 10, 289 faults 28 Syrah 30, 84, 158, 193, 194, 245 V intensity and persistency level 211 list 48, 310 292 pouring 21 T Varietals 9, 23, 193, 194 sensory anchor scale 98, 100 Vegetal 213 Table setting 309 sensory pyramid 13 Tactile sensation 32, 169 Venice 82 spice level 196 Tannin 102, 155, 175, 177 Venison 244 tasting 22 Taste 25 (wine) 224 Wine-by-the-glass program 50 components 31 Vergine (sherry) 294 Winemaker’s marinade 25 examination 25 Stravecchio 294 Wines with spice, herbal and taming modifiers 27 (wine) 224 characteristics 194 thresholds 27 Vermouth 294 Winkler (degree days) 52 Taste of Louisiana, A 67 Vertical pairings 239 Woman’s Christian Temperance Union Tasting 25–26 Vidal Icewine 288, 301 57 session 27 Vigonier 30 temperatures 29 Vin de Glaciere 290 X Tawny Port 293, 297, 300, 301, 302 Vin de paille 292 Xime´nez, Pedro 294 Taxation structures 56 Vinosity 156 X.O. Cognac 152 Tchelistcheff, Andre´ 236 292 Tears (legs) 24 Vinexpo 288 Y Temperature 27, 28, 29 Vinifera 288 194, 214 Vino Gelato 290 Yakima Valley 236 Terrroir 55, 59, 79 Vino Veritas 188 Texture 12, 146, 163, 169 Vins Mousseux 133 Z 195 56 Zabaglione 297 Thanksgiving American Grocery Store Vintage Port 293 Zampone 6 190 Vintner’s Quality Alliance (VQA) 210, Zinfandel 107, 199, 297 The Encyclopedia of Cajun & Creole Cuisine 288 Ziraldo, Donald 288 67 Viscosity 154, 157 Zraly 29