DINOSAUR TRACKS: Lost and Found and Lost Again
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DINOSAUR TRACKS: Lost and Found and Lost Again FEBRUARY 2006 DudeDude RanchRanch GuideGuide Environmentalist Ranchers NavajoNavajo BullriderBullrider My Heroes Have Always Been CowboysCowboys Lake Powell Grand Canyon Navajo Indian {also inside} National Park Reservation FEBRUARY 2006 2 DEAR EDITOR Greasewood Aubrey Valley Springs 3 ALL WHO WANDER PRESCOTT MAYER Lions or lambs, ranchers or Castle Hot wilderness: Must we choose? Springs Resort Aravaipa My Heroes Have PHOENIX Canyon 26 Portfolio: Long 4 VIEWFINDER Always Been pages 8–24 Grapevine Views to Savor Remembering a mentor. TUCSON Canyon Ranch Photographer Jerry Sieve has gathered 5 TAKING THE OFF-RAMP Huachuca Cowboys Mountains favorite scenic views for 28 years. Explore Arizona oddities, Malpais attractions and pleasures. Borderlands 8 Navajo Rodeo Traditions POINTS OF INTEREST FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE 34 Artist and Man Tracker A multigenerational love of the arena 40 ALONG THE WAY A skilled Indian tracker can hunt down demonstrates the spiritual lessons of a currycomb. The Old West lives on — in a plant shop. bad guys, but art is his real passion. BY LEO W. BANKS PHOTOGRAPHS BY EDWARD MCCAIN BY PAULY HELLER PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID HELLER 42 FOCUS ON NATURE 14 Environmentalist Ranchers Feral ferrets cheer, prairie dogs boo. 36 Dinosaur Tracks: Borderland ranchers prove cattle and 44 BACK ROAD ADVENTURE healthy grasslands can coexist. Historic Castle Hot Springs Lost and Found BY TERRY GREENE STERLING A journey through myth and sunlight A photographer races to document stunning PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID ZICKL acts as a fountain of youth. trackways before a rising lake drowns them. BY SCOTT THYBONY 48 HIKE OF THE MONTH PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDRE DELGALVIS 20 Dude Ranch Fantasies Huachuca Mountains’ Perimeter Trail Wannabe cowboys and a cynical writer flutters with butterflies and history. ride the fence line of a dream. BY KATHLEEN WALKER PHOTOGRAPHS BY DON B.STEVENSON highways on television AND RYAN STEVENSON { } Arizona Highways magazine has inspired an independent weekly television series, hosted by Phoenix TV news anchor Robin Sewell. For channels and show 24 City-slicker Getaways times, log on to arizonahighways.com; click on “DISCOVER ARIZONA”; then click A list of some of the state’s varied on the “Arizona Highways goes to television!” link on the right-hand side. dude ranch adventures. BY JAYME COOK online arizonahighways.com This month on our Web site, find the hot spots for horsin’ around in Arizona. Go to arizonahighways.com and click on the “Wild West Guide” for: • The lowdown on Arizona dude ranches • A roundup of the state’s best rodeos • Arizona horse happenings HUMOR Gene Perret goes to kindergarten. ONLINE EXTRA See Tucson up close and personal. WEEKEND GETAWAY Find beauty at the Desert Botanical Garden. TRAVEL THROUGH TIME A “WHAM, BAM, thank you, man” holdup. EXPERIENCE ARIZONA Plan a trip with our calendar of events. Photographic Prints Available n Prints of some photographs are available for purchase, as designated in captions. To order, call toll-free (866) 962-1191 or visit www.magazineprints.com. FRONT COVER Kelly Glenn-Kimbro, a member of the ranching Glenn family at the Malpai Ranch east of Douglas, is right at home on the range where cattle people and environmentalists have had a meeting of minds. See story, page 14. DAVID ZICKL Evening Settles Down The day’s last warm light sets Cape Royal aglow in the BACK COVER Light at sunrise strikes petrified sedimentary formations in a view from Grand Canyon from a south-looking viewpoint. JACK DYKINGA the overlook at Little Cut south of Page on the Navajo Indian Reservation. Our n To order a print of this photograph, see information at right. portfolio of Arizona’s best elevated scenic views begins on page 26. JERRY SIEVE n To order a print of this photograph, see information above. {dear editor} by Peter Aleshire, editor {all who wander} [email protected] FEBRUARY 2006 VOL. 81, NO. 2 Publisher WIN HOLDEN Editor PETER ALESHIRE Senior Editor BETH DEVENY Managing Editor RANDY SUMMERLIN Searching for a Story Ecology, Good for the Pot,” September ’05) trying Research/Web Editor SALLY BENFORD The Wild Watches With Golden Eyes the Choices We Make Editorial Administrator CONNIE BOCH Love the lost mine stories. Hope you can find more. to convince people to remove the non-native Editorial Assistant PAULY HELLER William Schultheiss, Kingman pest from streams. This makes your wonderful alanced atop a slab-muscled mule in the both prevent the fragmentation of public lands Director of Photography PETER ENSENBERGER We had a story, but we lost it. state even nicer for a Swedish crawfish lover. Photography Editor RICHARD MAACK bottom of Aravaipa Canyon, biologist Stan and support hard-pressed rural communities. Crawfish are a great delicacy in Sweden, Cunningham pulled the radio tracker out of As for me, I just wanted to see a mountain lion. Art Director BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY B Too Danged Small usually eaten in August under the big Deputy Art Director BILLIE JO BISHOP his saddlebag and listened for the lion. I sat quietly So when Stan wheeled his mule and charged For years I have loved your magazine—both the harvest moon. We cook them in salted water Map Designer KEVIN KIBSEY on Red, the mule Stan loaned me so I could tag along up that impossible slope, I held my peace and printed material and photography. that has a lot of dill seed heads in it. Arizona Highways Books as he tracked a radio-collared mountain lion with a sat my seat as Red lurched after him, nimble Editor BOB ALBANO The September 2005 issue has presented me with Let them cool and serve them with sweet tooth for calves. as a mountain goat. I sustained a John Wayne a problem that I hope you will solve. The print on Swedish vodka (one shot to each claw) Production Director KIM ENSENBERGER His receiver beeped . beeped . pose for two lurches, before grabbing the saddle Promotions Art Director RONDA JOHNSON quite a number of pages seems to be very small and and a lot of singing and silly hats. Webmaster VICKY SNOW beeped as he swung it slowly in an horn like it was my last tooth. Red surged up the on a tan background. I find it difficult to read much The original Swedish crawfish is almost Director of Sales & Marketing KELLY MERO arc. When he was pointed up the hill over the rocks, through the cholla, past the of that material. extinct, so we import tons and tons of insanely steep, cholla-studded slope yucca, into the catclaw, a tsunami of mule muscle Circulation Director HOLLY CARNAHAN I hope you are not going to continue that format crawfish from Turkey, China and Louisiana. on our right, the receiver accelerated carrying me along like a broken rowboat. Finance Director BOB ALLEN in future issues. There is a good business opportunity for any to a breathless beepbeepbeep. Stan As it turns out, Stan’s study did demonstrate that Helen Heimbuck, Scottsdale enterprising crawfish collector in Arizona. Information Technology Manager looked back at me dubiously, calves constituted about one-third of the diet of the CINDY BORMANIS Thanks for the feedback. We’ve been trying to squeeze Irma Palm, Stockholm, Sweden trying to picture me riding Red up lions of Aravaipa Canyon. Some might argue that FOR CUSTOMER INQUIRIES more information into the magazine without making Now, that’s a great idea. We could deploy happy OR TO ORDER BY PHONE: that 40-degree hillside toward the means we should continue our long war with the the photographs smaller, which means we sometimes children to creeks across the state to rid the state’s Call toll-free: (800) 543-5432 waiting mountain lion. You see, lions. Except lion biologists have also made several In the Phoenix area or outside the U.S., print text on the pictures or put extra information in waterways of these imported pests, which churn up Call (602) 712-2000 he’d spent a year treeing, darting other unsettling observations. Lions fiercely defend boxes. sediment and gobble native fish and insects. We could Or visit us online at: and radio-collaring mountain lions, their territory from other lions. So if a hunter kills a We’ll keep an eye on this problem, but please keep even give them silly hats. arizonahighways.com then trailed them around collecting dominant lion, two or three younger lions will For Corporate or Trade Sales: letting us know if we’re making it hard on our beloved DOLORES FIELD their scat to figure out how many quickly move in from nearby territories. Such readers. How Could They? Call (602) 712-2045 calves they were eating. So perhaps younger and less-experienced lions are more likely to The event photographed in “Viewfinder” (October he had lost track of what one could kill calves. So hunting the lions can actually make the E-MAIL LETTERS TO THE EDITOR: Barely Time to Dream ’05) puts a puppy in extreme harm’s way. [email protected] reasonably expect of a writer. problem worse. Thanks for a fantastic magazine. We don’t always have If adults want to climb up steep cliffs, that’s their Regular Mail: If I were a sensible person, I On the other hand, other studies have time to get to the amazing places represented on that right. But to strap a puppy in a backpack and expect Editor would have wished Stan well, demonstrated that ranchers can reduce their 2039 W. Lewis Ave. glossy paper, but we always have time to dream. her to be comfortable and safe at the pinnacle of a Phoenix, AZ 85009 promised to meet him back at the predator losses by corralling pregnant cows and Jenny Matlock, Mesa rock spire that doesn’t even have enough room for Governor Janet Napolitano research trailer and meandered keeping newborn calves safe from predators until Thank you for such a wonderful compliment.