6/2015 Winter INSTRUCTIONS

Please read the following the should be placed at Materials Press the garment’s seams as you go general instructions before regular intervals (6…9 cm) between Fabric requirements are based on a along and give the garment a final starting your project. these points. fabric width of 145…150 cm. Pre­ press when it is completed. How to choose the correct For reasons of clarity, some of the shrink the fabric before cutting either Practical tips size markings (e.g. positions of by washing or by steaming it thor­ tapes and ) have only oughly. If you choose a different fabric Gathering: Adjust your ma­ Children’s pattern sizes are primari­ been printed on the smallest-size from the one suggested in the maga­ chine as follows: Decrease the up­ ly chosen according to the child’s pattern of the design. Copy these zine, allow for matching up fabric pat­ per tension and increase the height, and the pattern measurements in the corresponding places on the tern and for cutting with nap when length (stitch length 4...5). Sew are then adjusted to correspond to pattern size of your choice, measuring calculating the fabric requirement. two rows of gathering stitches 0.5 cm the child’s other body measurements. the distance of each marking from apart from each other on the right Take the measurements on top of thin the edge of the pattern piece. Large Choose the on the basis side of the edge to be gathered, plac­ underwear and compare them with pattern pieces have been printed of the fashion fabric’s color, quality, ing one row on the seamline and the size chart. You will find detailed on the pattern sheet in two parts. weight and care instructions. the other within the allow­ instructions for taking measurements Combine parts A and B before cutting Since the quality and stretch of elas­ ance. Leave long thread ends. Gath­ on the next page. out the garment pieces. tics vary, check the lengths be­ er the fabric by pulling simultaneously fore sewing. on both threads and spread­ How to find the pattern pieces Cutting ing the gathers between your fingers on the pattern sheet If a is not available in a desired evenly over the required length. The Lay out the pattern pieces on a dou­ length, buy a longer zipper and short­ An overview of numbered, small-scale ble layer of fabric, observing the gathered edge is stitched in place be­ en it as shown in the illustration on tween the gathering stitches using a pattern pieces and a list of pattern markings for grainlines and foldlines. pattern sheet D. pieces can be found next to the sew­ Draw the seam allowances on the regular . ing instructions for each design. The fabric with ’s chalk. Sewing Easing: Rows of -stitching are appropriate pattern sheet is also stat­ If you only need to a piece out Read through the instructions before sewn as gathering stitches but the ed. On the bottom edge of the pat­ bobbin threads are pulled just enough tern sheet, find the number with the once, observe the pattern markings you start sewing. If you wish, baste and cut either on a fold (e.g. back, col­ and try the garment on before sew­ to make the edge curve slightly (e.g. correct color for the desired pattern at set-in caps). piece and move your finger upward lar) or from a single layer of fabric ing. To make sewing easier, the instruc­ on the sheet until you locate the (e.g. ). tions have been written on the basis Garments lined with knit same number. of techniques used in the in­ The measurements for garment dustry. The terms “inner”/”outer” and When the fabric is a knit and Trace the pattern on tissue paper, in­ pieces listed under the heading “Cut “left”/”right” refer to the garment the fashion fabric a woven, cut the cluding all the necessary markings also” (e.g. belt loops, belts) already when worn. lining out with considerably narrow­ (e.g. grainlines, notches, pocket place­ include seam allowances. When er seam allowances to keep the lining ments). The markings are also visible cutting out the garment, include Finish the construction seams of the from showing under the fashion fabric. on the small-scale patterns next to allowances for fitting adjustments garment after you have sewn them, the instructions. Make all adjustments if necessary. Each design includes even if the instructions do not spe­ to the pattern before cutting out the specific and detailed cutting cifically mention seam finish. You can garment pieces. instructions. either use a serger or a machine zig­ © Garment sections to be interfaced zag stitch for finishing the seams. On The designs, patterns, instructions, photos and arti­ Patterns knit fabrics, stitch the seams using cles in this magazine are protected under internation­ are shaded in grey in the overview a machine stretch-stitch or a serger. al copyright laws. Professional, industrial and commer­ The patterns include allowances, of small-scale pattern pieces. Knit cial use of the material and manufacture under license and woven are cut on the No separate seam finish is necessary. is only possible under a written agreement with the extensions and placket facings. Seams inside a lined garment do not copyright holder. For further information, contact us When cutting out the garment pieces, , while non-woven interfacings necessarily have to be finished. in writing at the following address: Studio Tuumat Oy, add seam allowances of approx. 1 cm may be cut in any direction as they do Rantavitikantie 33, FI-96300 Rovaniemi, Finland. (depending on the fabric) to each not have a grain. Interfacing pieces are On (e.g. at the garment’s bot­ Copyright © Studio Tuumat Oy, generally cut adding the same amount tom edge or sleeve edges) the seam Rovaniemi, Finland OTTOBRE design® edge of the pattern. or Studio Tuumat Oy has no obligation to compen­ of (approx. 1 cm) as allowance is turned under and the sate for possible financial losses resulting from mis­ The position of the first or top but­ on pieces cut from fashion fabric. hem is stitched close to the turned- prints or other errors on the pattern sheet or in ton/ has been marked on However, a smaller seam allowance under edge. The width of the hem the instructions. the pattern. On blouses and the may be used on interfacings for and seam allowance is given in brack­ Copyright © Studio Tuumat Oy, top buttonhole on the front is approx. heavy-weight fabrics. ets; for example “stitch hem (2 cm + Rovaniemi, Finland 4 cm below the neck seamline and 1 cm)” means that the hem allowance the bottom buttonhole approx. 10 is 2 cm and the seam allowance 1 cm. cm above the . The rest of MEASURING SIZE CHARTS THE CHILD

For taking the measurements, you’ll BABIES 50-92 cm need a and a length of firm tape that is placed round the waist. You can sew a waist tape for Height cm 50 56 62 68 74 80 86 92 this purpose of a strip of fold­ ed in four (finished width 1.5 cm). 1. Chest measurement 43 44.5 46 47.5 49 50.5 52 54 Place the tape horizontally round the child’s waist and secure with a safe­ 2. Waist measurement 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 ty . 3. Hip measurement 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 The child should stand upright with a relaxed posture with arms hanging 4. Sleeve length 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 free at the sides. 5. Inseam length 15 18 21 24 27 30 33.5 37 The measurements are taken on top of underwear (briefs and a light- weight undershirt) close to the body, yet not too tight. It is advisable to take the measurements in front of a mirror so that you can see the posi­ TODDLERS 92-122 cm GIRLS AND BOYS tion of the tape measure behind the child. Height cm 92 98 104 110 116 122 Height of the child: With the child standing up with the 1. Chest measurement 54 56 58 60 62 64 back and heels against a wall, mark the height at the top of the head on 2. Waist measurement 53 54 55 56 57 58 the wall using a straight angle (e.g. a book). The height of the child is the 3. Hip measurement 58 60 62 64 66 68 distance measured from the floor to 4. Back waist length 22.5 24 25 26.5 28 29.5 the marking. Chest measurement: 5. Sleeve length 32 34 36 38 40 42 Horizontal measurement round the 6. Outseam length 54 58 62 66 70 74 body with the tape measure running over the chest and shoulder blades. 7. Shoulder width 8.0 8.4 8.8 9.2 9.6 10 Waist measurement: Measurement round the waist without the waist tape. Hip measurement: GIRLS 128-170 cm Horizontal measurement round the seat (the fullest part of the bottom). Outseam length: Height cm 128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170 Distance from the waist to the floor 1. Bust measurement 66 68 71 73 76 79 82 85 measured from the lower edge of the waist tape. 2. Waist measurement 59 61 63 64 66 68 70 72 Inseam length: 3. Hip measurement 70 72 75 79 82 85 88 91 Distance from the crotch to the floor when the child is standing legs 4. Back waist length 31 32.5 34 35.5 37 38.5 40 41.5 slightly apart with the weight evenly on both feet. 5. Sleeve length 44 46 48 50 52 54.5 57 59.5 Shoulder width: 6. Outseam length 78 82 86 90 93.5 97 100.5 104.5 Distance from the base of the neck to the top of the arm. 7. Shoulder width 10.4 10.8 11.2 11.6 12 12.4 12.8 13.2 Sleeve length: Distance from the top of the arm to the wrist measured over the elbow with the arm slightly bent. BOYS 128-170 cm Back waist length: Distance from the most prominent Height cm 128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170 vertebra at the base of the neck to the lower edge of the waist tape. 1. Chest measurement 66 68 71 75 78 81 84 87 2. Waist measurement 59 61 63 66 68 70 72 74 3. Hip measurement 70 72 75 78 81 84 87 90 The measurements in the chart 4. Back waist length 31 32.5 34 35.5 37 39 41 43 are taken on the body. The patterns include the 5. Sleeve length 44 46 49 51.5 54 56.5 59 61.5 necessary allowances for 6. Outseam length 78 82 86 90 93.5 97 100.5 104 ease of movement. 7. Shoulder width 10.4 10.8 11.2 11.6 12 12.5 13 13.5

You can find these charts with measurements in inches on our website. 1. Curry and Rock Grey bodysuits 50-56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 50, 53

MATERIALS 3 - 50-50-55-55-55-60-60-65 cm printed cotton single jersey or 1 2 striped organic-cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/ PATTERN PIECES cut recovery 30% - 10 cm ribbing (CO/EL), 1 front 2 width 90 cm 2 back 1 - piece of interfacing, 3 sleeve 2 Vlieseline® G 785 - 9…11 small snap , PATTERN SHEET A red ø 8 mm, Prym Mini

CUTTING of on pattern pieces). If you use and bottom snaps has been marked on across sleeve-edge bindings. Finish front Cut garment pieces from single jersey as a binder attachment on your coverstitch pattern; place the remaining 3…5 snaps edges and with continuous bind- indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing machine to attach the bindings, cut the at regular intervals between these). Cut ing. Finish garment’s bottom edge with center-back of pattern on fabric fold and binding strips in the width that fits the narrow strips of interfacing for stabilizing continuous binding, leaving a little extra adding 7 mm seam allowances to raglan binder. snap areas and fuse them to wrong side at both ends of binding. Wrap ends of seams, sleeve-underarm seams and side of front edges of front panels as well as binding tightly over front edges to wrong seams. Do not add seam allowances to SEWING to wrong side of bottom edges of front side and stitch them in place. excess neckline, front edges of front panels, bot- Construction techniques: Stitch seams and back panels (see edges shaded in grey binding off close to stitching. tom edges of front and back panels and with serger or with overedge stretch on small-scale patterns). Finishing: Attach snap fasteners, placing bottom edges of . stitch on regular . See Joining: Pin sleeves to front and back socket halves on front edge of right front Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips from rib- general instructions for finishing edges panels right sides together and stitch rag- panel and bottom edge of back panel and bing for finishing neckline + front edges, with binding on p. 44. lan seams. Finish bottom edges of sleeves corresponding stud halves on front edge bottom edge of front + back and bottom Preparation: Mark position of snap fas- with binding. Stitch sleeve underarm seams of left front panel and bottom edges of edges of sleeves (measure required lengths teners on front edges (position of top and side seams. Fold underarm seam al- front panels. lowances to one side and stitch them flat

2. Snowflakes 50-56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Page 50

1 2 PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS - 35-40-45-50-50-55-60-65 cm 1 pants front 1 sweatshirt knit with soft, brushed 2 pants back 1 reverse side (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 20% PATTERN SHEET A black - 43…50 cm elastic, width 15 mm CUTTING SEWING edges of legs will curl nicely when the with center-front and center-back marks Trace pattern piece for pants front ob- Construction techniques: Stitch seams pants are worn. at waist edge. Stitch elastic to casing al- serving pattern markings. Cut garment with serger or with overedge stretch : Measure and cut piece of lowance by machine-basting across it at pieces from sweatshirt knit as indicated stitch on regular sewing machine. elastic to fit the child (length of elastic = quarter marks. Fold casing allowance and on list of pattern pieces, placing center- child’s waist measurement minus 2...3 cm). elastic to wrong side of pants, pin casing Joining: Pin pants front and back right in position and stitch it to pants along front and center-back edges of pattern sides together and stitch leg inseam. Stitch Stitch ends of elastic together to form pieces on fabric fold and adding 7 mm circle and mark elastic into quarters. bottom edge of elastic with 3-thread cov- side seams. Turn pants right side out. erstitch or with twin needle on regular seam allowances to other edges. Finish bottom edges of legs with serger Finish raw edge of waist casing allowance. Pin elastic to casing allowance, aligning sewing machine, stretching elastic evenly rolled hem or with narrow, short zigzag; as you sew. secure thread ends carefully. Bottom quarter marks with pants side seams and

3. Bunny footed coverall 50-56-62-68-74-80-86 cm Pages 48-51 3 1 2 MATERIALS - 85…110 cm fusible stay tape, PATTERN PIECES cut - 60-65-70-75-80-85-90 cm width 12 mm, Vlieseline® Formband 1 front 2 4 soft sweatshirt knit with brushed 2 back 1 reverse side (CO/EL), design A, Design A: 3 sleeve 2 or merino knit (WV), design - 5 cm ribbing (CO/EL) 4 crotch 1 6 B; both knits with 20% Design B: 5 foot sole 2 stretch/recovery - piece of white merino wool knit 6 knee patch, design B 2 - invisible zipper, length 34-36-38- - contrast-color merino wool 5 40-42-45-47 cm PATTERN SHEET A green A CUTTING Preparation: Cut two pieces of stay and continue stitching around toe ends Design A: Cut garment pieces from tape for stabilizing zipper placket edges of foot soles and along leg inseam edges, sweatshirt knit as indicated on list of pat- (see edge shaded in grey on small-scale ending stitching on right leg at center- tern pieces, placing center-back of pattern pattern; measure required length of tape front corner of crotch gusset and on left on fabric fold and adding 7 mm seam al- on pattern). Trim tapes to width of 7 mm leg at notch for zipper placket. Fold un- lowances to all other edges except neck- and fuse them to wrong side of placket derarm seam allowances to one side and line and bottom edges of sleeves. Cut seam allowances. stitch them flat across sleeve-edge bind- 3.5 cm wide binding strips from ribbing Knee patches, design B: Sew row of ings. for finishing neckline and bottom edges ease-stitching along outer edge of each Finish neckline with binding. Finish raw of sleeves. knee patch. Make cardboard template zipper-placket edges on front panels by Design B: Cut knee patches from white with pattern piece for knee patch. Place serging or zigzagging. Open zipper. Pin and other garment pieces from grey me- knee patch on ironing board wrong side and stitch zipper tapes to placket edges rino wool knit as indicated on list of pat- up. Lay template on wrong side of knee right sides together, aligning top end of tern pieces, placing center-back of pattern patch. Holding template and patch against zipper coil with top edge of neckline bind- on fabric fold and adding 7 mm seam al- ironing board, pull up bobbin thread of ing. Wrap top ends of zipper tapes over lowances to all other edges except neck- ease-stitching to turn seam allowance on edge of neckline binding to wrong side, B line and bottom edges of sleeves. Cut outer edge of patch over edge of template pin them in position and stitch them in 3.5 cm wide binding strips from grey me- to wrong side. Steam seam allowance in place across neckline binding. rino wool knit for finishing neckline and position and allow knee patch to dry for Finishing: Fold zipper shield in half width- bottom edges of sleeves. a short while. Remove template and trim wise, right sides together, and stitch its seam allowance to 5 mm. Pin knee patches side edges. Turn shield right side out and Both designs: Cut 3 cm x 6 cm piece to front legs as marked on pattern and from sweatshirt knit (A) or white merino serge or zigzag its open edges together. stitch them in place by hand with short Pin and stitch shield to garment’s placket- wool knit (B) for zipper shield to be running stitches, using merino wool yarn. placed under zipper stop at neckline. edge seam allowance, placing it under top Joining: Pin and stitch foot soles to back stop of zipper. SEWING panel. Stitch crotch gusset to back panel as marked on pattern. Pin shoulder edges Construction techniques: Stitch seams of front panels to back panel right sides with serger or with overedge stretch together and stitch shoulder seams. Finish stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch bottom edges of sleeves with binding. zipper with straight stitch using invisible Stitch sleeves to armholes. Pin front and zipper foot. See general instructions for back panels right sides together. Stitch finishing edges with binding on p. 44. sleeve underarm seams and side seams

4. Stars in Blue Sky dress 50-56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Page 50

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PATTERN PIECES cut

2 1 front 1 MATERIALS 1 2 back 1 - 45-45-45-50-55-55-55-60 cm 3 neckline * 1 printed organic-cotton single 4 armhole facing* 2 jersey (CO), stretch/recovery 10% - 1 sew-on snap , ø 6 mm PATTERN SHEET A lilac CUTTING with serger or with overedge stretch the left. Slash slit on back panel as marked facing to wrong side of neckline, turn Cut garment pieces from single jersey as stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch on pattern and stitch narrow hems along seam allowance at its free edge and ends indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing tucks, edges of back slit as well as neckline edges of slit. Place edges of slit right sides under and stitch it to neckline close to center-front and center-back edges of and armhole facings with straight stitch, together and stitch small at the its turned-under edge. Finish armholes pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding and stitch bottom hem with 3-thread bottom of slit. with facing in the same way as neckline, 7 mm seam allowances to other edges. coverstitch or with twin needle on regular Pin front and back right sides together without turning ends of facing under. *Pattern pieces for facings include seam sewing machine. and stitch shoulder seams. Stitch neckline Stitch side seams. Press side seam allow- allowances. Joining: Fold front panel wrong sides facing to neckline right sides together ances toward back panel and stitch them together along each pattern marking for with 7 mm seam allowance. Trim neckline flat across armhole facings. Fold up, press SEWING tuck foldline and press. Stitch tucks 5 mm seam allowances slightly and understitch and stitch bottom hem as marked on Construction techniques: Stitch seams from fold. Fold and press tucks toward them to facing close to seamline. Fold pattern. Sew snap fastener at neckline.

5. Baa-Baa Little Lamb wool-knit overalls 50-56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 52-53

MATERIALS - 2 wooden toggle buttons, - 40-45-50-55-60-60-65-70 cm length 25 mm CUTTING pants panels and bottom edges of legs. - 25-25-26-26-27-27-28-28 cm clear garter stitch knit (WV), Cut pants front and back from garter Cut the other garment pieces from me- width 125 cm elastic tape (Framilon®) or regular stitch knit as indicated on list of pattern rino wool single jersey as indicated on - 20 cm merino wool single jersey elastic, width 8 mm pieces, placing center-front and center- list of pattern pieces, adding 10 mm seam (WV), width 145 cm - piece of interfacing for stabilizing back edges of pattern pieces on fabric allowances to knee patches. *Pattern - contrast-color merino wool yarn buttonholes fold and adding 10 mm seam allowances pieces marked with an asterisk include to all other edges except top edges of seam allowances. >>> Preparation: Stitch knee patches to binding over top edge to wrong side, pin front legs, following instructions for design its free edge to pants carefully and stitch 5 3B. Fuse piece of interfacing to wrong from right side of pants with 3-thread side of each reinforcing piece. Pin rein- coverstitch or with twin needle on regular forcing pieces to top edge of pants front sewing machine. as marked on pattern, wrong sides to- Shoulder : Fold and press each 4 6 gether, and stitch them in place close to shoulder in three as marked on edge with straight stitch. Stitch - pattern, so that edge along the middle of 1 2 holes at top edge of pants front as marked strap is placed on the outside. Stitch along on pattern. Stitch piece of clear elastic the middle of strap with 5-thread cover- tape or regular elastic to wrong side of stitch. Serge or zigzag ends of straps. Pin seam allowance at top edge of pants back, ends of shoulder straps to wrong side of stretching elastic slightly as you sew. top edge of pants back, placing them on Joining: Pin pants front and back right each side of center-back mark approx. sides together and stitch leg inseam. Stitch 2 cm apart, and stitch them in place along 3 side seams. Turn pants right side out. rows of stitching on binding. Stitch across Finish bottom edges of legs with serger straps also along top edge of binding. rolled hem or with narrow, short zigzag; Cross shoulder straps approx. 10 cm secure thread ends carefully. Bottom above top edge of pants back, pin them PATTERN PIECES cut edges of legs will curl nicely when the in position and stitch them together by pants are worn. hand with a few stitches sewn in the same 1 pants front 1 SEWING Stitch ends of binding together to form place, using merino wool yarn. Sew but- 2 pants back 1 circle. Copy pattern markings for center- tons at free ends of straps using merino 3 knee patch 2 Construction techniques: Stitch side front and center-back points as well as wool yarn. 4 * 2 seams and leg inseam with straight stitch, for one side seam on binding (seam on 5 binding* 1 press seams open and them binding will be aligned with the other side 6 reinforcement piece* 2 with 5-thread coverstitch or with suitable seam). Pin one edge of binding to top decorative stitch on regular sewing ma- edge of pants right sides together and chine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). stitch with 10 mm seam allowance. Wrap PATTERN SHEET A black

6. Wooly Star jacket 50-56-62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Pages 52-53

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PATTERN PIECES cut

5 Shell Lining 1 2 1 front 2 2 2 back 1 1 3 sleeve 2 2 3 4 hood 2 2 5 pocket 2 -

PATTERN SHEET A orange

Cut lining pieces from cotton single jersey stitch them in place close to edge. corners with pattern markings on shell. MATERIALS as indicated on list of pattern pieces, Joining shell: Stitch and topstitch shoul- Joining shell and lining: Pin and stitch placing center-back of pattern on fabric - 60-60-70-75-80-80-85-95 cm der seams. Stitch sleeves to armholes and front edges of shell and lining right sides fold and adding 10 mm seam allowances topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve underarm together, aligning bottom-hem edge of garter stitch knit (WV), width to all other edges except bottom-hem seams and side seams. Steam underarm lining with bottom-hem foldline on shell. 125 cm edges of front and back panels and bottom and side seams open. Understitch front-edge seam allowances - 55-60-65-65-65-70-70-75 cm edges of sleeves. Joining lining: Stitch shoulder seams. to lining close to seamline. Pin and stitch printed organic-cotton single of shell and lining right sides jersey (CO), stretch/recovery SEWING Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Press together, with hood in between. Trim 10% Construction techniques: Stitch shoul- each seam on lining open straight after neckline seam allowances slightly and clip - contrast-color merino wool yarn der seams and armhole seams on shell stitching it. them along curves if necessary. Turn gar- - 3…4 wooden toggle buttons, as well as top/back seam of shell hood ment right side out. Insert lining sleeves length 25 mm with straight stitch, press seams open and Hood: Stitch darts on shell and lining into shell sleeves. Align bottom edges of topstitch them with coverstitch. Stitch hood panels. Stitch and topstitch top/back lining sleeves with hem foldlines on shell - interfacing for stabilizing seam of shell hood. Stitch top/back seam buttonholes the other seams on shell as well as all sleeves, and fold up and pin hems. Stitch seams on lining with straight stitch. Stitch of lining hood. Steam seams on hood sec- sleeve-edge hems with 5-thread cover- coverstitching with 5-thread coverstitch tions. Place shell and lining hoods within stitch. Pin bottom-hem edge of lining to or use suitable decorative stitch on regular one another right sides together and bottom-hem foldline of shell, fold up and CUTTING sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). stitch their face edges together. Pull hood pin hem, and stitch it with 5-thread cov- Shell: Cut shell pieces from wool knit as sections apart and understitch face-edge erstitch. Preparation: Fuse interfacing to areas seam allowances to lining hood close to indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing of lining front panels shaded in grey on Finishing: Stitch buttonholes on right center-back of pattern on fabric fold and seamline. Place shell and lining hoods small-scale patterns. Stitch hems at open- within one another wrong sides together front panel as marked on pattern. Sew adding 10 mm seam allowances to other ing edges of with 5-thread cov- buttons on left front panel, using merino edges. and machine-baste their bottom edges erstitch. Turn seam allowances at other together. Steam face edge of hood. Ma- wool yarn. Lining: Fold away hem allowances on pocket edges to wrong side, pin pockets chine-baste hood to shell’s neckline right pattern pieces for front, back and sleeve. to shell fronts as marked on pattern and sides together, aligning its bottom front 7. Wind Stripes balaclava hood head circumference 38-40-42-44-46-48-50 cm Pages 48-49

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7 PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS - 45…50 cm striped organic- 7 side panel 2 cotton single jersey (CO/EL), 8 center panel 1 stretch/recovery 30% - 5 cm ribbing (CO/EL) PATTERN SHEET A black

CUTTING of hood. If you use a binder attachment with straight stitch, press them open and center panel. Topstitch seams. Finish face Cut hood pieces from single jersey as on your coverstitch machine to attach topstitch them with 5-thread coverstitch edge and bottom edge of hood with bind- indicated on list of pattern pieces, adding the bindings, cut the binding strips in the or with suitable decorative stitch on ing. Stitch and topstitch center-front seam. 7 mm seam allowances to all edges and width that fits the binder. regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb Secure thread ends carefully. Stitch hori- aligning stripes at pattern markings. Cut stitch). See general instructions for finish- zontal rows of back-and-forth stitching 3.5 cm wide binding strips from ribbing SEWING ing edges with binding on p. 44. with straight stitch at both ends of seam. for finishing face edge and bottom edge Construction techniques: Stitch seams Joining: Pin and stitch side panels to

8. Talvikukka tunic 62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Page 59

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4 2 7 PATTERN PIECES cut 2 front 1 MATERIALS 3 front 1 - 60-65-70-70-75-80 cm lightweight 3 5 4 back yoke 2 printed organic-cotton poplin 5 back 2 (CO) 6 sleeve 2 - 5 cm interfacing, Vlieseline® 7 pocket 2 H 180 8 neckline facing* 1 - 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm elastic, width 8 mm PATTERN SHEET A blue - 5 small buttons, ø 10 mm

CUTTING Pockets: Fold, press and stitch hems at yokes. Pin and stitch one edge of neckline Cut elastic into two equal-length pieces Cut garment pieces from poplin as indi- opening edges of pockets as marked on facing to neckline right sides together, and stitch ends of each piece together cated on list of pattern pieces, placing pattern. Turn and press seam allowances with ends of facing slightly overlapping to form circles. Finish raw bottom edges center-front edges of pattern pieces on at other pocket edges to wrong side. Pin placket facings. Trim neckline seam allow- of sleeves. Machine-baste circles of elastic fabric fold and adding 10 mm seam allow- and stitch pockets to front panel as ances slightly and clip them along curves. to seam allowances at bottom edges of ances to other edges. *Pattern piece for marked on pattern. Turn back neckline corners right side out. sleeves, stretching them slightly as you neckline facing includes seam allowances. Joining: Sew gathering stitches along top Understitch neckline seam allowances to sew. Turn sleeve-edge seam allowances edges of front and back panels as marked neckline facing. Fold neckline facing to with elastic to wrong side and stitch SEWING on pattern and edges to fit yokes. wrong side of neckline, turn seam allow- sleeve edges along edge of elastic. ance at its free edge under, pin it to neck- Construction techniques: Stitch seams Pin front yoke to front panel right sides Finishing: Fold up, press and stitch bot- together and stitch yoke seam. Fold seam line and stitch it in place close to its tur- tom hem (1 cm + 2 cm). Turn seam allow- with straight stitch and finish them with ned-under edge. serger or . Topstitch seams allowances toward yoke and topstitch ances at outer edges of placket facings close to seamline. seam. Stitch and topstitch yoke seams on Sleeves: Sew gathering stitches along to wrong side, and pin and stitch facings back in the same way. Stitch shoulder sleeve caps as marked on pattern and to back panels. Stitch buttonholes on left Preparation: Fuse interfacing to placket seams. gather sleeves to fit armholes. Pin and back panel, placing top buttonhole as facings on back panels and back yokes Neckline: Fold placket facings on back stitch sleeves to armholes right sides to- marked on pattern and the rest at re- (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale gether. Fold seam allowances toward body gular 6...7 cm intervals. Sew buttons on patterns). Turn placket facings to wrong yokes onto right side of yokes, turn seam allowances at their outer edges in position of garment and topstitch seams. Stitch right back panel. side of back panels and back yokes as sleeve underarm seams and side seams. marked on pattern and press. and stitch neckline edges of facings to 9. Nöpö bloomers 62-68-74-80-86-92 cm Page 59

PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS 9 pants front 2 - 35…40 cm lightweight printed 9 10 10 pants back 2 organic-cotton poplin (CO) - 100…120 cm elastic, width 15 mm PATTERN SHEET A blue

CUTTING Joining: Pin and stitch at waist of legs. Measure and cut piece of elastic side and stitch it in place along outer Cut garment pieces from poplin as indi- edges of pants fronts and backs as marked to fit the child’s waist (length of elastic edge of elastic, stretching elastic as you cated on list of pattern pieces, adding on pattern. Fold underfolds toward = child’s waist measurement minus 2… sew. 10 mm seam allowances to all edges. center-front and center-back and press 3 cm) and stitch its ends together to form Measure and cut two pieces of elastic to waist edges. Pin pants fronts and backs circle. Mark elastic into quarters. Pin elas- fit the child’s thigh circumference and SEWING right sides together and stitch leg inseams. tic to waist casing allowance, aligning quar- stitch ends of each elastic together to Stitch crotch seam. Stitch side seams. ter marks with center-front, center-back Construction techniques: Stitch seams form circles. Mark elastics into halves and Press seams. and side seams, and machine-baste elastic finish bottom edges of legs with elastics with straight stitch and finish them with to casing allowance at these points. Fold serger or zigzag stitch. Waistline and bottom edges of legs: in the same way as waistline. Finish raw waist edge and bottom edges casing allowance with elastic to wrong

10. Hopeahelma special-occasion dress 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Page 58

5

6 1 2 4 3 PATTERN PIECES cut Shell Lining 1 front 2 2 MATERIALS 2 side front 2 2 - 105-110-115-120-130-145- viscose lining fabric (CV), 3 back 2 2 155 cm silver-coated -blend width 145 cm 4 side back 2 2 fabric (LI/CV/PES/PU), - 20 cm interfacing, Vlieseline® G 785 5 sleeve 2 - width 125 cm 6 shaped facing 1 - - 90-95-100-110-125-130-145 cm - invisible zipper, length 25-25-30- 30-35-35-35 cm PATTERN SHEET B black

CUTTING Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to shaped and stitch shoulder seams and side seams. es zipper and stop stitching 3 cm before Shell: Cut shell pieces and shaped facing facing. Pin and stitch shaped facing to neckline notch for placket on lining. Stitch right from linen-blend fabric as indicated on Joining shell: Finish raw center-front of lining right sides together. Press seam zipper-placket edge of lining to placket list of pattern pieces, adding 10 mm seam edges of front panels. Pin front panels allowances toward lining. Press all seams edge of shell in the same way. The bottom allowances to all edges. Note that sleeves right sides together and stitch center- on lining. Finish raw armhole edges and of the zipper placket on the lining is thus are cut on the bias. front seam. Press seam open. Stitch side stitch narrow hems on them. not attached to the shell in order to allow ease for sitting. Lining: Prepare the pattern as follows fronts to front panels (= ), Joining shell and lining: Finish raw before cutting the lining: Cut off portions finish seam allowances together and press center-back edges of shell and lining. Pin Turn all center-back seam allowances at of shaped facing from pattern pieces for them gently toward front panels. Stitch shell and lining right sides together and top end of zipper placket onto shaped front and back and shorten of side backs to back panels in the same stitch neckline seam, starting and ending facing and pin and stitch rest of neckline all pattern pieces by 2 cm (see markings way as princess seams on front. stitching 4 cm away from center-back seam on each side of placket. Trim seam on small-scale patterns). Cut lining pieces Pin front and back panels right sides to- edges. Clip neckline seam allowances allowances at top corners of placket and from lining fabric as indicated on list of gether and stitch shoulder seams. Press along curves and trim them if necessary. trim off excess ends of zipper tapes. Turn pattern pieces, adding 10 mm seam allow- seams open. Stitch side seams. Finish seam Understitch neckline seam allowances to garment right side out and turn top cor- ances to all edges. allowances together and press them to- shaped facing close to seamline. ners of placket in position. Stitch center- ward garment’s back. Stitch darts at sleeve Zipper: Open zipper. Pin one zipper half back seams of shell and lining from notch SEWING caps and press them toward sleeve fronts. to center-back edge of shell right sides for zipper placket to bottom hem. Press Stitch underarm seams of sleeves. Finish together and stitch it in place using invis- center-back seams open and press zipper Construction techniques: Stitch seams placket gently. with straight stitch and finish them with raw bottom edges of sleeves. Fold up, ible zipper foot. Stitch the other zipper serger or zigzag stitch. Note that princess press and stitch hems at bottom edges half to the other center-back edge of shell Finishing: Attach armholes of lining to seams are only finished from waistline of sleeves. Pin and stitch sleeves to arm- in the same way. Open zipper on shell. shoulder seams and side seams of shell (marked with dashed line on pattern) to holes. Turn shell and lining inside out. Pin and with a few hand stitches. Stitch hem bottom hem. Clip seam allowances on Joining lining: Pin front panels right sides stitch left zipper-placket edge of lining to (5 mm + 5 mm) at bottom edge of lining. front and back panels along curved por- together and stitch center-front seam. placket edge of shell, right sides together Finish raw bottom-hem edge of shell. tions of princess seams after stitching Stitch princess seams on front and back. and with zipper in between. Place stitching Stitch narrow hem at bottom edge of seams. Pin front and back right sides together 5 mm away from stitching line that attach- shell. 11. Pupuliini furry jumpsuit 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 5, 18-19

8 5 PATTERN PIECES cut

4 MATERIALS Faux fur - 70-80-85-90-95-105-110 cm 1+1A front 2 short-pile faux fur knit (CO/PES), 2+2A back 2 stretch/recovery 15% 3 sleeve 2 - 45-50-50-50-55-55-55 cm striped Ribbing cotton single jersey (CO/EL) for 4 1 lining 3 5 pocket band 2 2 - 40-45-45-50-50-55-55 cm 6 sleeve 2 1 stretchy knit lining fabric (PES/PA) 7 bottom-leg cuff 2 for lining - 35…45 cm ribbing (CO/EL), Striped jersey width 90 cm, or 20 cm ribbing, 1 upper front panel 2 width 140 cm 2 upper back panel 2 8 pocket 2 6 - 10 cm interfacing, Vlieseline® G 785 Knit lining fabric - 90…110 cm fusible stay tape, 1A lower front panel 2 1A 2A width 12 mm, Vlieseline® 2A lower back panel 2 Formband 3 sleeve 2 - zipper, length 40-40-45-45-45- 7 50-50 cm PATTERN SHEET B red

CUTTING shell front panels. See areas and edges Stitch side edges of each sleeve cuff and With collar between shell and lining, pin Shell: Join pattern pieces 1+1A and shaded in grey on small-scale patterns. bottom-leg cuff together to form circles. and machine-baste necklines of shell and 2+2A before cutting. Cut shell pieces Pockets: Stitch side edges of each pocket Fold cuffs in half wrong sides together. lining together, stitching within seam al- from faux fur and ribbing as indicated on band right sides together to form circles. Place cuffs within shell sleeves and legs lowances; start and end stitching approx. list of pattern pieces, placing center-back Fold bands in half wrong sides together. right sides together, aligning midpoints 5 cm away from center-front edges. edge of pattern piece for collar on fabric Cut pocket openings on shell front panels and seams. Stitch cuffs in place with Pin and stitch bottom edges of shell and fold and adding 10 mm seam allowances as marked on pattern. Pin and stitch straight stitch, stretching them as you lining sleeves right sides together, with to other edges. pocket bands to pocket openings right sew. sleeve cuffs in between. Note! Shell and Lining: Cut pocket as well as upper sides together, placing seam on band at Joining lining: Stitch upper and lower lining sleeves are not placed within one front and back panels from striped single edge of pocket opening closest to gar- front panels as well as upper and lower another but their bottom edges are jersey, and cut lower front and back panels ment’s side seam. Pin and stitch pocket back panels right sides together. Stitch brought end to end and then stitched as well as sleeves from knit lining fabric, bags to pocket openings, right sides to- center-back seam. Stitch center-front together. Stitch bottom edges of legs of adding 10 mm seam allowances to all gether and with pocket bands in between. seam from crotch to notch for zipper shell and lining together in the same way. edges. Fold pocket bags to wrong side. Fold placket. Stitch leg inseams. Pin sleeves to Turn garment right side out by pushing pocket bags in half right sides together front and back panels and stitch raglan your hand between center-front edges SEWING and stitch their side and bottom edges. seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and of shell and lining and pulling sleeves and Joining shell: Pin back panels right sides side seams, leaving 15 cm opening for legs out one at a time. Construction techniques: Stitch seams turning in side seam along one leg. with serger or with straight stretch stitch together and stitch center-back seam. Pin Then push your hand through opening on regular sewing machine. Stitch pockets, front panels right sides together and stitch Joining shell and lining: Open zipper for turning, take hold of center-front pocket bands, sleeve cuffs, bottom-leg center-front seam from crotch to notch and stitch it to center-front edges of shell edges of shell and lining, and pin and stitch cuffs and zipper in place with straight for zipper placket. Stitch leg inseams. Pin right sides together; align top end of zip- edges together, with zipper in between. stitch. Use zipper foot for stitching zipper. sleeves to front and back panels and stitch per teeth with foldline on collar and turn Secure side seam allowances of shell and raglan seams. Stitch sleeve underarm top ends of zipper tapes diagonally away lining together at armpits with a few hand Stabilizing: Fuse pieces of interfacing seams and side seams. Stitch one edge of from zipper teeth. Turn shell and lining stitches. Close opening for turning. to wrong side of pocket opening areas collar to neckline right sides together. inside out. Stitch free edge of collar to on shell front panels. Fuse pieces of stay Leave shell inside out. neckline of lining right sides together. tape to center-front edges of collar and

12. Huppunen bunny hood head circumference 48-50-52-54 cm Pages 5, 18-19

1 3 MATERIALS 2 PATTERN PIECES cut - 40…45 cm short-pile faux fur knit (CO/PES), stretch/ 1 side front panel 2+2 recovery 15% 2 side back panel 2+2 - 40…45 cm striped cotton single 3 ear 2+2 jersey (CO/EL) for lining - 8 cm Velcro loop tape and 10 cm Velcro hook tape, width 18 mm PATTERN SHEET D orange CUTTING long edges together. Trim seam allowances leaving small opening for turning in back opening for turning and stitch front edges Cut exterior hood pieces from faux fur at tips of ears and turn ears right side seam, close to bottom edge of hood. of hood exterior and lining together. Push and lining pieces from striped single jersey, out. Steam ears. Machine-baste ears along Press top/back seams of hood exterior front edges back and turn them right side adding 10 mm seam allowances to all their open edges to exterior side-front and lining open. out. Close opening for turning. Steam edges on exterior pieces and 7 mm seam panels as marked on pattern, placing right Joining hood exterior and lining: edges of hood. allowances to all edges on lining pieces. side of ear lining against right side of side Place hood exterior and hood lining within Finishing: Cut each Velcro tape into two front panel. one another right sides together and pin equal-length pieces and round corners SEWING Joining: Stitch darts on exterior and and stitch their face edges together. Clip of pieces slightly. Stitch hook tapes to left Construction techniques: Stitch seams lining side-back panels and press dart seam allowances along curves and under- front edge of hood on exterior side and with straight stitch. Stitch both hood seams open. Pin exterior side-front and stitch face-edge seam allowances to lining loop tapes to right front edge on lining exterior and hood lining with 10 mm side-back panels right sides together and close to seamline. Stitch bottom edges side as marked on pattern. seam allowances to make lining slightly stitch side seams. Press seams open. Pin of hood exterior and hood lining together smaller than hood exterior. hood exterior halves right sides together (do not stitch vertical front edges yet) and stitch top/back seam. Stitch side seams and understitch seam allowances to lining Ears: Pin ear pieces right sides together of hood lining in the same way and press close to seamline. Turn hood right side in pairs (exterior + lining) and stitch their seams open. Stitch top/back seam of lining, out. Pull front edges of hood out through

13. Side Stripe leggings 92-98-104-110-116-122-128-134-140 cm Pages 4, 10-11, 16-17

CUTTING Join pattern pieces 1+1A before cutting. Clear elastic tapes: Cut clear elastic Cut garment pieces from single jersey as tape into two equal-length pieces and indicated on list of pattern pieces, adding machine-baste pieces to right side of leg- 7 mm seam allowances to all edges. inseam seam allowances on pants front, placing them between pattern markings SEWING and stretching them as you sew to gather Construction techniques: Stitch seams edges slightly. On finished garment, clear with serger or with overedge stretch elastic tapes will be concealed between 1 stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch seam allowances. hems and waist casing with 3-thread cov- Joining: Fold up, press and stitch hems erstitch or with twin needle on regular at bottom edges of legs as marked on sewing machine. pattern. Fold pants panels in half right 1A Preparation: Sew two rows of gathering sides together and stitch leg inseams. Fold stitches in the middle of each pants panel seam allowances to one side and stitch as marked on pattern, placing them 7 mm them flat across bottom-leg hems. Place apart. Pull up bobbin threads of gathering pants legs within one another right sides MATERIALS stitches and gather portion between together and stitch crotch seam; leave pattern markings to length of 10 cm. Cut 15 mm opening across waist casing allow- - 70-75-80-80-85-90-95-100- ance at center back for inserting elastic. 105 cm printed cotton single grosgrain ribbon into two equal-length jersey (CO/EL), stretch/ pieces. Pin grosgrain ribbons to pants Waistline: Fold, press and stitch waist panels as marked on pattern and stitch casing as marked on pattern. Measure recovery 30% them in place along both edges with and cut piece of elastic to fit the child - 120…170 cm stretch grosgrain straight stitch, stretching both ribbon and and insert it into waist casing. Stitch ends PATTERN PIECES cut ribbon, width 10 mm pants panel slightly as you sew to produce of elastic together and close opening on - 50…58 cm elastic, width 20 mm elastic rows of stitching. Steam ribbon casing. 1+1A pants panel 2 - 20 cm clear elastic tape, width areas to shrink them back to their correct 5 mm, Framilon® length. PATTERN SHEET B lilac

14. Ruusunen jersey dress 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 5, 16-17

PATTERN PIECES cut CUTTING 4 1 front yoke 1 Cut side front yokes from striped single 2 side front yoke 2 jersey and other garment pieces from 1 2 printed double-face jersey as indicated 3 front 1 on list of pattern pieces, placing center- 4 back yoke 2 front and center-back edges of pattern 5 back 1 pieces on fabric fold and adding 10 mm 6 sleeve 2 seam allowances to other edges. 7 shaped facing 1 3 5 SEWING PATTERN SHEET B green Construction techniques: Stitch yoke and neckline seams with straight stitch. Stitch the other seams with serger or MATERIALS with overedge stretch stitch on regular - 65-70-80-85-90-95-100 cm sewing machine. Stitch hems with 3-thread printed double-face jersey coverstitch or with twin needle on regular (CV/PES/EL), stretch/recovery 25% sewing machine. - 25 cm striped cotton single jersey Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to back (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% yokes and shaped facing (see areas shaded 6 - 20 cm interfacing, Vlieseline® in grey on small-scale patterns). Finish 7 G 785 raw outer edges of placket facings on - snap fastener, ø 10 mm back yokes as well as raw outer edge of shaped facing. >>> Front: Pin front yoke and side front yokes slit. Place edges of slit right sides together seams toward yokes and topstitch seams shoulder seam allowances with a few right sides together and stitch seams with and stitch small dart at bottom of slit. close to seamline. hand stitches. straight stitch. Finish seam allowances Sew gathering stitches along top edges Joining: Stitch shoulder seams. Stitch Fold up, press and stitch hems at bottom together, fold them toward front yoke of back panel as marked on pattern and ends of shaped facing to outer edges of edges of sleeves. Stitch sleeves to arm- and topstitch seams close to seamline. gather edges to fit back yokes. Stitch placket facings on back yokes, right sides holes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and Sew gathering stitches along top edge of yokes to back panel, aligning center-back together. Fold placket facings to right side side seams. Fold underarm seam allow- front panel as marked on pattern and mark on back panel with center-back of yokes, pin shaped facing to neckline ances to one side and stitch them flat gather edge to fit yoke. Stitch yoke to mark on left yoke and right edge of slit right sides together and stitch neckline across sleeve-edge hems. Fold up, press front panel, fold seam allowances toward on back panel with center-back mark on seam. Trim neckline seam allowances to and stitch bottom hem. yoke and topstitch seam close to seamline. right yoke. Fold placket facings to right approx. 5 mm and clip them along curves. side of back yokes and stitch their bottom Finishing: Attach snap fastener to back Back: Slash slit to the right of center- Understitch neckline seam allowances to placket as marked on pattern. back line on back panel as marked on edges to yoke seams. Turn corners right shaped facing close to seamline. Attach pattern. Stitch narrow hems at edges of side out. Fold seam allowances of yoke outer edge of shaped facing to garment’s

15. Steampunk jersey T- 92-98-104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Pages 4, 12-15

A MATERIALS B Design A, T-shirt with a bunny motif: - 55-60-60-60-65-65-70-70-75- 80 cm cotton single jersey 6 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% PATTERN PIECES cut - fabric marker for drawing the bunny 1 front A+B 1 Design B, denim-color T-shirt: 1 2 1 front C - 45-45-50-50-55-55-60-60-60- front panel a 1 65 cm pale-blue and 45-50-50- side front panel b 1 55-55-60-60-65-65-70 cm lower front panel c 1 medium-blue mélange cotton 2 back 1 single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/ C 3 sleeve 2 recovery 30% 4 sleeve cuff 2 Design C, T-shirt with a steam- 5 5 hem band A+B 2 punk print: 6 neckline binding A+B 1 - 45-50-50-55-55-60-60-65-65- 70 cm black, 45-45-50-50-55-55- sizes 92-122 60-60-60-65 cm printed (with 1 3 two different print patterns, a PATTERN SHEET B blue i.e. steampunk and chain) and 25 cm striped cotton single jersey b sizes 128-146 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% c - 10 cm black ribbing (CO/EL) 4 PATTERN SHEET D green

CUTTING Cut 4.5 cm wide binding strips from edges of sleeves as follows: Pin and stitch wrong side, pin its free edge to neckline Design A: Cut garment pieces from ribbing for finishing neckline and bottom- one edge of cuff to bottom edge of sleeve and stitch close to binding seamline from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern hem edge. If you use a binder attachment right sides together, stretching cuff slightly right side of garment with 3-thread cov- pieces, placing center-front and center- on your coverstitch machine to attach as you sew. Press seam open, fold cuff in erstitch or with twin needle on regular back edges of pattern pieces on fabric the bindings, cut the binding strips in the half wrong sides together and pin its free sewing machine, catching free edge of fold and adding 7 mm seam allowances width that fits the binder. edge to sleeve-edge seam. Stitch cuff in binding in stitching. to all other edges except neckline. place from right side of sleeve with 5- Joining, design C: Pin front panel and SEWING thread coverstitch, placing stitching in the side front panel right sides together and Design B: Cut front and back from pale- middle of sleeve-edge seamline. blue and other garment pieces from me- Construction techniques: Stitch raglan stitch and topstitch panel seam as instruct- dium-blue single jersey as indicated on seams on all designs and panel seams on Joining, designs A and B: Pin sleeves ed above in Construction techniques. list of pattern pieces, placing center-front the front of design C as follows: Place to front and back panels right sides to- Stitch lower front panel to front + side and center-back edges of pattern pieces garment pieces right sides together and gether and stitch and topstitch raglan front panel in the same way. Pin sleeves on fabric fold and adding 7 mm seam al- stitch seam with straight stitch. Trim seam seams as instructed above in Construction to front and back panels right sides to- lowances to all other edges except neck- allowances to 5 mm and press seam open. techniques. Stitch sleeve underarm seams gether and stitch and topstitch both raglan line. Topstitch seam from right side of garment and side seams. Fold underarm seam al- seams on front and right raglan seam on with coverstitch. Stitch sleeve underarm lowances to one side at bottom edges back as instructed in Construction tech- Design C: Trace pattern for front so seams and side seams with serger or with of sleeves and stitch them flat for a couple niques. Finish neckline with ribbed binding. that it represents the whole of garment's overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing of centimeters. Stitch side seams of hem Stitch and topstitch left raglan seam on front, observing markings on small-scale machine. Stitch coverstitching with 5- bands right sides together. Stitch band to back. Stitch seam allowances flat along pattern. Cut up pattern for front into thread coverstitch or use suitable deco- garment’s bottom-hem edge in the same outer edge of neckline binding with short three separate pattern pieces along rative stitch on regular sewing machine way as cuffs to sleeves. row of back-and-forth stitching. marked seamlines. Cut garment pieces (e.g. honeycomb stitch). Design C: See as follows: front panel (a) from steampunk- Neckline, designs A and B: Stitch ends Stitch right sleeve-underarm seam and general instructions for finishing edges of neckline binding together to form circle side seam. Finish bottom-hem edge with patterned, lower front panel (c) from with binding on p. 44. striped, side front panel (b) and back panel and mark binding into quarters. Also, binding. Stitch left sleeve-underarm seam from chain-patterned, and sleeves and Bunny motif, design A: Lay the front mark neckline into quarters (start meas- and side seam. Fold seam allowances to sleeve cuffs from black single jersey as panel on a flat surface and pull it taut. uring at left raglan seam on back and, one side and stitch them flat across indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing Draw a bunny (or some other motif) on when applying neckline binding, align seam bottom-hem binding as well as for a center-front and center-back edges of the panel with a fabric marker. If you wish, on binding with this seam). Pin and stitch couple of centimeters at bottom edges pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding you can baste the outlines of the motif neckline binding to neckline right sides of sleeves. 7 mm seam allowances to all other edges on the front panel before drawing. together, stretching it slightly as you sew. except neckline *-*. Sleeve cuffs: Stitch sleeve cuffs to bottom Wrap binding over neckline edge to 16. Chameleon pants from corduroy, canvas or satin 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 4-5,12-15, 60-61

6 MATERIALS - 60-65-70-75-80-85-90 cm 8 stretch corduroy (CO/EL), 4 5 design A, or printed stretch canvas (CO/EL), design B, or stretch 7 satin (CO/PES/EL), design C, 9 stretch/recovery 8% PATTERN PIECES cut - 25 cm printed (A) or solid-color 2 (B) cotton fabric for pocket 1 1 pants front 2 facings and trims on back 3 2 back yoke 2 yokes 3 pants back 2 - piece of interfacing, Vlieseline® 4 pocket piece 2 H 180 5 pocket facing 2 - 36-37-38-39-40-41-42 cm elastic, 6 back pocket A+B 2 width 25 mm 7 1 - zipper, length 6-6-7-7-8-8-9 cm 8 shield 1 - 1 snap fastener or button, 9 piping trim* 2 ø 15 mm reindeer motif B - topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 (- piece of double-sided fusible web, Vlieseline® Vliesofix) PATTERN SHEET C black

CUTTING thread on designs A and B and matching press and stitch hems at opening edges edges of legs. Designs A and B: Cut pocket facings topstitching thread on design C. of pockets as marked on pattern. Turn Belt loops: Finish one raw long edge of and piping trims from cotton fabric and Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to waistband and press seam allowances at other pock- belt loop strip. Fold strip in three length- other garment pieces from corduroy or and on design C (satin pants) also to fly et edges to wrong side, pin pockets to wise and stitch two parallel rows of top- canvas as indicated on list of pattern facing (see areas shaded in grey on small- pants backs as marked on pattern and stitching in the middle of strip. Cut strip pieces, placing center-back edge of pattern scale patterns). topstitch in place. into five equal-length pieces. Pin and stitch piece for waistband on fabric fold and Appliqué, design B: Trace reindeer motif Joining: Fold piping trims in half length- one end of each belt loop to pants waist adding 10 mm seam allowances to other from pattern sheet on paper backing of wise, wrong sides together. Machine-baste as shown in design sketch, right sides edges. *Pattern piece for piping trim in- double-sided fusible web and fuse web trims to top edges of pants backs, placing together. cludes seam allowances. to wrong side of piece of solid-color cot- their open edges along outer edges of Waistline: Machine-baste ends of elastic Design C: Cut all garment pieces from ton fabric. Cut appliqué shape out along seam allowances on pants backs and to waistband as marked on pattern. Pin satin as indicated on list of pattern pieces, its outlines, remove paper backing and stitching 3 mm away from folded edges and stitch right side of inner half of waist- placing center-back edge of pattern piece iron shape onto one of the back pockets. of trims. Pin back yokes to pants backs band to wrong side of pants waist. Fold for waistband on fabric fold and adding Stitch shape in place close to edge with right sides together and stitch them in waistband right sides together and stitch 10 mm seam allowances to other edges. straight stitch. place along stitching lines that attach pip- its ends. Trim corners and turn ends of *Pattern piece for piping trim includes ing trims. Fold seam allowances toward waistband right side out. Turn waistband Front-hip pockets: Pin and stitch pocket pants backs and topstitch seams. seam allowances. facings to edges of pocket openings on right way up, turn seam allowance at its All designs: Cut 3 cm x 33 cm strip pants fronts, right sides together. Clip Stitch front crotch seam from leg inseam free outer edge under and stitch edge to from fashion fabric for belt loops. seam allowances along curves. Understitch edge to notch for zipper placket. Apply right side of pants waist. Sew another seam allowances to pocket facings close zipper to placket, following illustrated row of stitching along elasticated portion SEWING to seamline. Fold pocket facings to wrong instructions for fly-front zipper on p. 45. of waistband, stitching through all layers Pin pants fronts and backs right sides to- in the middle of elastic and stretching Construction techniques: Stitch seams side of pants fronts and topstitch edges of pocket openings. Pin pocket pieces to gether and stitch side seams. Fold seam elastic as you sew. Stitch free ends of belt with straight stitch and finish them with allowances toward pants backs and top- loops to top edge of waistband. Attach serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch edges of pocket facings right sides together and stitch bottom of each pocket. Pin and stitch side seams from waist edge to bot- snap fastener to waistband, or stitch pocket openings on pants fronts using tom edge of front-hip pocket. Stitch back buttonhole and sew button on it, as presser-foot edge as guide and topstitch machine-baste pockets to waist and side seam allowances of pants fronts. crotch seam. Topstitch front and back marked on pattern. seams and other edges close to seamline crotch seams. Pin and stitch leg inseams. or edge; use contrast-color topstitching Back pockets, designs A and B: Fold, Fold up, press and stitch hems at bottom

17. Odd baseball jacket 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 4, 15

MATERIALS for outer pocket pieces - 50-50-50-55-55-60-60 cm pale- - piece of interfacing, Vlieseline® grey and 40-40-45-45-45-50- G 785 50 cm dark-grey mélange - 3 metal zippers: 1 open-end zipper, sweatshirt knit (CO/EL), length 25-27-29-31-33-35-37 cm, stretch/recovery 30% for front and 2 regular zippers, - 25 cm ribbing (CO/EL), length 12 cm, for pockets width 90 cm - contrast-color topstitching thread, - piece of lightweight cotton fabric Epic no. 80 CUTTING and press edges of pocket opening. Turn of garment and topstitch neckline seam. Cut sleeve cuffs, hem band and collar ends of zipper tapes to wrong side, pin Hemline: Finish raw horizontal edges from ribbing, outer pocket pieces from zipper over pocket opening and stitch it of front-corner hem allowances on front cotton fabric, inner pocket pieces, elbow in place close to its outer edges. Sew panels. Fold hem band in half wrong sides patches, front panels and back panel from another two rows of stitching along zipper, together and stitch its long edge to gar- pale-grey sweatshirt knit and sleeves from placing them on each side of zipper teeth. ment’s bottom-hem edge right sides to- 7 8 dark-grey sweatshirt knit as indicated on Pin and stitch inner pocket piece to outer gether; before stitching, clip diagonally 4 list of pattern pieces, placing center-back pocket piece right sides together. Sew through seam allowance at inward corner edges of pattern pieces on fabric fold and rows of back-and-forth stitching through on each front panel and lay hem band so adding 10 mm seam allowances to other all layers across each end of pocket open- that seamline across each of its ends is edges. ing. aligned with tip of clip. Fold front-corners Sleeves: Finish bottom edges of sleeves of front panels onto ends of hem band 3 SEWING following instructions for design 15. Pin right sides together, fold front-corner Construction techniques: Stitch seams elbow patches to sleeves as marked on hem allowances onto underside of hem 2 with straight stitch and finish them with pattern and stitch them in place with 5- band and stitch ends of hem band to front 1 serger or zigzag stitch unless otherwise thread coverstitch; do not turn edges of panels. Turn corners right side out. Fold instructed. Topstitch seams and edges patches under. seam allowances of bottom-hem seam toward front and back panels and top- with contrast-color topstitching thread Joining: Pin front and back panels right 6 using presser-foot edge as guide unless sides together and stitch shoulder seams stitch bottom-hem seam and vertical 5 otherwise instructed. Stitch coverstitching with straight stitch. Trim seam allowances seams at ends of hem band with contin- with 5-thread coverstitch or use suitable to 5 mm and press seams open. Topstitch uous row of stitching. decorative stitch on regular sewing ma- shoulder seams from right side with 5- Zipper: Open zipper. Stitch zipper halves PATTERN PIECES cut chine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). thread coverstitch. Stitch sleeves to arm- to front panels right sides together, aligning holes right sides together. Fold seam al- bottom end of zipper with folded bottom- Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to wrong 1 front 2 side of pocket opening areas on front lowances toward body of garment and hem edge of front panel. Wrap top ends topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve underarm of zipper tapes over neckline edge to 2 back 1 panels and fuse also narrow strips of in- 3 sleeve 2 terfacing to front-edge seam allowances seams and side seams. Fold underarm wrong side, pin zipper tapes right way up on front panels (see areas shaded in grey seam allowances to one side at bottom and stitch their outer edges to front 4 pocket piece 2+2 on small-scale patterns). edges of sleeves and stitch them flat for panels. 5 sleeve cuff 2 a couple of centimeters. 6 hem band 1 Pockets: Place outer pocket piece on Collar: Fold collar in half wrong sides 7 collar 1 front panel right sides together and stitch 8 elbow patch 2 around pocket opening, observing pattern together and stitch it to neckline right markings. Slash pocket opening between sides together, aligning its front tips with stitching lines and clip diagonally to cor- front-edge seamlines on front panels. Fold PATTERN SHEET C green ners. Fold pocket piece to wrong side neckline seam allowances toward body

18. Wayne shirt 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Pages 60-61

9 10

1

2 2 4 PATTERN PIECES cut 1 shoulder yoke 1 2 left front panel 1 2 right front panel 1 3 front facing 1+1 4 back 1 MATERIALS 5 sleeve 2 - 75-80-85-90-90-95-100 cm 6 sleeve cuff 2 5 printed organic-cotton poplin 7 pocket 1 3 (CO) 8 pocket flap 2 - 35…50 cm interfacing, 9 collar 2 8 Vlieseline® H 180 10 collar stand 2 - 10…12 open-ring snap fasteners, ø 10 mm PATTERN SHEET C red 7 6

CUTTING close to edge or seamline unless other- ances slightly and turn flap right side out. from placket edges at bottom edge of Trace pattern piece for right front panel wise instructed. Press pocket flap flat and topstitch its sleeve and 1 mm away from placket edges from pattern for left front panel, observing Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to front edges using presser-foot edge as guide. at top end of placket (see illustration). markings on small-scale pattern. Cut facings, outer collar stand, upper collar, Pin and stitch flap above pocket, with Fold binding in half, turn seam allowance garment pieces from fabric as indicated outer halves of sleeve cuffs and outer outside of flap facing right side of front at its free edge under and stitch turned- on list of pattern pieces, placing center- pocket flap. See areas shaded in grey on panel. Fold flap right way up and topstitch under edge to right side of placket close back edges of pattern pieces on fabric small-scale patterns. attachment seam, concealing seam allow- to edge. Stitch small dart at top end of fold and adding 10 mm seam allowances ances under flap. each placket. Leave placket edge closest Pocket: Fold, press and stitch hem at to underarm seam straight and fold the to other edges. Cut also two 3 cm x opening edge of pocket. Turn and press Cuff : Slash bottom edges of 16 cm strips for cuff placket bindings. sleeves for cuff plackets as marked on other placket edge to wrong side of seam allowances at other pocket edges sleeve.Fold pleats at bottom edges of to wrong side, and pin and stitch pocket pattern. Pin and stitch placket bindings SEWING to placket edges, with right side of binding sleeves as marked on pattern and ma- to left front panel as marked on pattern. chine-baste them in position. >>> Construction techniques: Stitch seams Pin pocket flap pieces right sides together facing wrong side of sleeve; leave even with straight stitch and finish them with and stitch their curved outer edges. Trim 7 mm seam allowance all along edge of serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching corner of flap diagonally, trim seam allow- binding while placing stitching 7 mm away Joining: Fold pleats on back panel and and clip to stitching at inward corners. Sleeve cuffs: Turn and press seam allow- Attach socket halves of snap fasteners to machine-baste them in position. Pin and First press seams open, then fold front ance at attachment edge of outer half left front panel and stud halves to right stitch front and back panels to shoulder facings to wrong side of front panels and (interfaced half) of sleeve cuff to wrong front panel as follows: top snap to collar yoke right sides together. Fold seam al- press front edges. Turn seam allowances side. Fold cuff in half right sides together stand as marked on pattern, the next two lowances toward yoke and topstitch at outer edges of front facings to wrong and stitch its side edges. Turn cuff right snaps to inward and outward corners on seams. Pin and stitch sleeves to armholes, side, pin edges to front panels and stitch side out and press it flat. Pin and stitch front panels and the rest at regular inter- fold seam allowances toward body of them in place close to edge. right side of inner cuff half to wrong side vals below these. garment and topstitch seams using press- Stitch narrow hem at garment’s bottom of bottom edge of sleeve. Turn cuff right er-foot edge as guide. Stitch sleeve under- edge. way out. Pin edge of outer cuff half to arm seams and side seams. Collar: Construct collar with a stand sleeve edge and stitch it to sleeve close Front facings: Pin and stitch front facings following illustrated instructions on page to edge. Topstitch around cuff. to front panels right sides together. Trim 45. Finishing: Attach snap fasteners to pock- seam allowances around outward corners et and sleeve cuffs as marked on pattern.

19. Pappa’s slipover vest 92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Page 60 9 10

PATTERN PIECES cut

1 front 1 1 2 MATERIALS 2 back 1 - 40-45-45-50-50-55-55 cm dark- 9 neckline binding 1 grey and 40-40-45-45-50-50- 10 armhole binding 2 50 cm pale-grey merino wool 11 hem band 2 single jersey (WV), width 145 cm, weight 256 g/m2 PATTERN SHEET C green 11

CUTTING and armhole bindings, hem band and (start measuring and marking at center- binding at center-front corner of neckline. Cut front from pale-grey and other gar- shoulder seams with 3-thread coverstitch back point at neckline and, when applying Joining: Mark shoulder seam point on ment pieces from dark-grey knit as indi- (2 needles) or 4-thread coverstitch (3 neckline binding, place seam on binding each armhole binding, pin bindings to cated on list of pattern pieces, placing needles), or with twin needle on regular at this point). Pin binding to neckline right armholes and stitch them in place in the center-front and center-back edges of sewing machine. sides together, aligning quarter marks, same way as neckline binding. Stitch side pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding Shoulder seams: Pin front and back and stitch it in place with straight stitch. seams. Fold side seam allowances to one 7 mm seam allowances to other edges. right sides together and stitch shoulder Steam neckline seam open, fold binding side and stitch them flat across armhole seams with straight stitch. Steam seams in half wrong sides together and pin its bindings. Pin hem bands right sides to- SEWING open and topstitch them from right side, free edge to wrong side of neckline seam. gether and stitch side seams. Stitch hem Topstitch neckline seam from right side, Construction techniques: Stitch side placing stitching over seamline. band to garment’s bottom-hem edge in placing stitching over seamline so that the same way as neckline binding. seams of garment with serger or with Neckline binding: Stitch ends of neck- one outer line of topstitching runs along overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing line binding together to form circle. Mark neckline binding and the other on body machine. Stitch topstitching on neckline both binding and neckline into quarters of garment. Stitch small dart on neckline

20. Keijuhelma skirt 110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Pages 4, 8-9, 62

MATERIALS 2 3 PATTERN PIECES cut - 50-55-55-60-65-65-65 cm lightweight linen fabric (LI) or 1 skirt front 1 taffeta (PA/PES), width 145 cm 1 skirt back 2 - invisible zipper, length 15 cm 1 1 2 front waistband 1+1 - 10 cm interfacing, Vlieseline® 3 back waistband 2+2 H 180 - iron-on hemming tape for taffeta PATTERN SHEET C orange skirt

CUTTING Joining: Pin skirt front and backs right Pin outer waistband to skirt right sides of garment. Remove gathering stitches. Cut garment pieces from fabric as indi- sides together and stitch side seams. Sew together and stitch waist seam. Finish raw Finishing: Finish raw bottom-hem edge. cated on list of pattern pieces, placing gathering stitches along waist edge of center-back edges. Open zipper. Stitch Sew row of ease-stitching along outer center-front edges of pattern pieces on skirt and gather skirt front and back to zipper to center-back edges right sides edge of bottom-hem seam allowance and fabric fold and adding 10 mm seam allow- match corresponding waistband pieces. together, aligning top end of zipper coil pull up bobbin thread to ease out the ances to other edges. Waistline and zipper: Pin outer front with top edge of waistband. Stitch center- fullness of hem. Fold up and press bottom and back waistband pieces right sides to- back seam from bottom of zipper placket hem as marked on pattern. Linen skirt: SEWING gether and stitch side seams. Press seams to bottom hem and press seam open. Stitch hem with straight stitch. Taffeta Construction techniques: Stitch seams open. Stitch side seams of waistband facing Fold outer waistband and waistband facing skirt: Attach hem using iron-on hemming with straight stitch and finish them with and press seams open. Finish raw bottom right sides together on each side of zipper tape; cut clips on edge of tape to make serger or zigzag stitch. Stitch zipper using edge of waistband facing. Pin outer waist- placket and stitch their center-back edges it curve along hemline. invisible zipper foot. band and waistband facing right sides to- together, with zipper in between. Turn gether and stitch their top edges. Clip center-back ends of waistband right side Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to outer seam allowances along curves and under- out. Pin bottom edge of waistband facing (or if necessary, to all) waistband pieces. stitch them to waistband facing close to to waist seam carefully and stitch-in-the- seamline. ditch along waist seamline from right side 21. Tiny Pussy Bow blouse 110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Page 4, 8-9

5 MATERIALS PATTERN PIECES cut 1 - 60-75-80-85-90-95-100 cm lightweight printed cotton batiste 1 shoulder yoke 1 (CO) 2 front 2 3 4 - 5 cm interfacing, Vlieseline® 3 back 1 2 G 785 4 sleeve 2 - 5…6 buttons, ø 12 mm 5 collar 1 - 38-39-40-41-42-43-44 cm elastic, width 8 mm PATTERN SHEET C blue

CUTTING on pattern and gather edges to fit shoul- front facings to wrong side, pin facings to Bottom edges of sleeves: Cut elastic Cut garment pieces from fabric as indi- der yoke. Stitch shoulder yoke to front front panels and stitch them in place close into two equal-length pieces and stitch cated on list of pattern pieces, placing and back panels, fold seam allowances to edge. Stitch narrow hem at garment’s ends of each piece together to form cir- center-back edges of pattern pieces on toward yoke and topstitch seams close bottom edge. cles. Finish raw bottom edges of sleeves. fabric fold and adding 10 mm seam allow- to seamline. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Collar: Fold collar in half right sides Machine-baste circles of elastic to seam ances to other edges. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side together and stitch ends as well as long allowances at bottom edges of sleeves, seams. edges of collar ties as far as pattern mark- stretching them slightly as you sew. Turn SEWING Fold front facings to wrong side of front ings. Finger-press seams open carefully sleeve-edge seam allowances with elastic panels as marked on pattern and press. and turn collar right side out. Press fold to wrong side and stitch sleeve edges Construction techniques: Stitch seams along edge of elastic. with straight stitch and finish them with Fold each front facing onto right side of on collar as marked on pattern and, at serger or zigzag stitch. front panel, turn seam allowance at its the same time, press collar ties gently. Finishing: Stitch buttonholes and sew outer edge in position and stitch neckline Pin and stitch right side of non-interfaced buttons on front edges, placing top but- Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to front edges together from folded front edge half of collar to wrong side of neckline. tonhole and button 2 cm below neckline facings and collar (see areas shaded in to pattern marking for collar. Clip to Turn seam allowance at bottom edge of seam and the rest at regular 6...7 cm in- grey on small-scale patterns). stitching at pattern marking for collar and outer collar half under, pin turned-under tervals. Joining: Sew gathering stitches along top turn front neckline corner right side out. edge to neckline and stitch in place close edges of front and back panels as marked Turn seam allowances at outer edges of to edge.

22. Keeping Cosy furry short-sleeve jacket 110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Page 9

3

MATERIALS 4 - 45-45-50-50-55-55-60 cm soft organic-cotton sweatshirt knit (CO) - 40-40-45-45-50-50-55 cm PATTERN PIECES cut organic-cotton faux fur knit (CO), width 110 cm 1 front 2 2 - 65…95 cm fusible stay tape, width 2 back 1 1 12 mm, Vlieseline® Formband 3 sleeve 2 - open-end zipper, length 30-32- 4 neckline binding* 1 34-36-39-42-44 cm 5 hem band 1 - 53-54-55-56-57-58-59 cm elastic, width 10 mm PATTERN SHEET D lilac 5

CUTTING erwise instructed. Bottom edges of sleeves: Finish bot- and pin its free edge to bottom-hem Cut front panels from faux fur and other Stabilizing: Fuse pieces of stay tape to tom edges of sleeves following instructions seam. Stitch hem band in place from right garment pieces from sweatshirt knit as center-front edges of front panels and for design 21. side of garment with 5-thread coverstitch, indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing hem band (see edges shaded in grey on Neckline: Pin and stitch one edge of placing stitching in the middle of bottom- center-back edges of pattern pieces on small-scale patterns). neckline binding to neckline right sides hem seamline. fabric fold and adding 10 mm seam allow- Joining: Pin front and back panels right together. Wrap binding over neckline edge Zipper: Open zipper. Pin and stitch zipper ances to all other edges except neckline. sides together and stitch shoulder seams to wrong side, pin its free edge to neckline tapes to garment’s front edges right sides *Pattern piece for neckline binding in- with straight stitch. Trim seam allowances and stitch close to binding seamline from together, aligning top end of zipper teeth cludes seam allowances. slightly and press seams open. Topstitch right side of garment with 3-thread cov- with top edge of neckline binding and shoulder seams from right side with 5- erstitch or with twin needle on regular bottom end with bottom edge of hem SEWING thread coverstitch, placing stitching over sewing machine, catching free edge of band (shorten zipper if necessary). Wrap Construction techniques: Stitch seams seamline. Sew gathering stitches along binding in stitching. ends of zipper tapes over neckline binding with straight stitch and finish them with sleeve caps as marked on pattern and Hemline: Pin and stitch one edge of to wrong side, turn zipper tapes right serger or zigzag stitch. Stitch coverstitching gather sleeves to fit armholes. Stitch hem band to garment’s bottom-hem edge way up and stitch their outer edges to with 5-thread coverstitch or use suitable sleeves to armholes right sides together. right sides together, stretching hem band front panels. decorative stitch on regular sewing ma- Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side slightly as you sew. Press seam open, fold chine (e.g. honeycomb stitch) unless oth- seams. hem band in half wrong sides together 23. Fox Forest jersey dress 128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 4, 10-11

1 MATERIALS - 70-75-75-80-85-90-90-95 cm printed organic-cotton single PATTERN PIECES cut jersey (CO/EL), stretch/ 2 3 4 recovery 30% 1 shoulder yoke 1 - 65-70-80-85-85-90-90-95 cm 2 front 1 mélange cotton/viscose blend 3 back 1 single jersey (CO/CV/EL), 4 sleeve 2 stretch/recovery 30% 5 neckline binding* 1 - 25 cm clear elastic tape, width 5 mm, Framilon® PATTERN SHEET D red 5

CUTTING stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch Joining: Pin shoulder yoke to front and at center-back point at neckline and, when Cut front panel from printed single jersey hems with 3-thread coverstitch or with back panels right sides together and stitch applying neckline binding, align seam on and other garment pieces from mélange twin needle on regular sewing machine. yoke seams. Fold up, press and stitch hems binding with this point). Pin and stitch single jersey as indicated on list of pattern Preparation: Cut 11 cm piece of clear at bottom edges of sleeves as marked on neckline binding to neckline right sides pieces, placing center-front and center- elastic tape for gathering front neckline pattern. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch together, stretching it slightly as you sew. back edges of pattern pieces on fabric and 14 cm piece for gathering top edge sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Wrap binding over neckline edge to fold and adding 7 mm seam allowances of back panel. Machine-baste clear elastic Fold underarm seam allowances to one wrong side, pin its free edge to neckline to all other edges except neckline. *Pat- tapes to front neckline and top edge of side and stitch them flat across sleeve- and stitch close to binding seamline from tern piece for neckline binding includes back panel, placing them on right side of edge hems. Fold up, press and stitch bot- right side of garment with 3-thread cov- seam allowances. seam allowances between pattern mark- tom hem as marked on pattern. erstitch or with twin needle on regular ings and stretching them as you sew to Neckline: Stitch ends of neckline binding sewing machine, catching free edge of SEWING gather edges evenly. On finished garment, together to form circle and mark binding binding in stitching. Construction techniques: Stitch seams clear elastic tapes will be concealed be- into quarters. Also, mark neckline into with serger or with overedge stretch tween seam allowances. quarters (start measuring and marking

24. Easy Wear hooded cardigan 128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Page 13

MATERIALS - 115-120-125-125-130-135-140- 150 cm two-tone viscose single jersey (CV/EL), width 130 cm - 50…60 cm clear elastic tape, width 5 mm, Framilon®

1 2 3 PATTERN PIECES cut 1+1A front 2 1A 2 back 1 3 sleeve 2

PATTERN SHEET D blue

CUTTING ing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). them in half to form belt loops and ma- underarm seams and side seams. Fold Join pattern pieces 1+1A before cutting. Stabilizing: Cut pieces of clear elastic chine-baste loops to side seam allowances underarm seam allowances to one side Cut garment pieces from single jersey as tape for back neckline and shoulder edges on front panels as marked on pattern. and stitch them flat across sleeve-edge indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing on back panel (measure required lengths Joining: Pin hood sections of front panels hems. Fold up, press and stitch bottom center-back edge of pattern on fabric fold of tape on pattern and add seam allow- right sides together and stitch top/back hem as marked on pattern. Fold, press and adding 7 mm seam allowances to ances). Machine-baste tapes to right side seam of hood. Pin front and back panels and stitch hem at face edge of hood and other edges. Cut also 4 cm x 120 cm of neckline and shoulder seam allowances right sides together and stitch shoulder along front edges of front panels as strip for belt and 2 cm x 10 cm strip for on back panel (on finished garment, tapes seams, aligning back neckline with pattern marked on pattern. Secure thread ends belt loops. will be concealed between seam allow- markings on shoulder edges of front pan- at the beginning and end of stitching ances). els. Pin bottom edge of hood to front carefully. SEWING Belt loops: Fold belt loop strip in half and back neckline and stitch neckline Belt: Fold belt in half right sides together Construction techniques: Stitch seams lengthwise, wrong sides together, and seam. Secure thread ends at the beginning and stitch long edges together with serger. with serger or with overedge stretch stitch its long edges together with serger and end of stitching carefully. Turn belt right side out and stitch narrow stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch rolled hem or with narrow, short zigzag Fold up, press and stitch hems at bottom hems at its ends. Thread belt through belt hems with 5-thread coverstitch or with (finished width of strip = approx. 5 mm). edges of sleeves as marked on pattern. loops. suitable decorative stitch on regular sew- Cut two 4 cm long pieces from strip, fold Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve 25. Wendy dress 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 63-64

3

2 MATERIALS 1 PATTERN PIECES cut - 60-60-60-65-65-70-70 cm firm interlock knit (techno jersey) 1 front yoke 1 (CV/PA/EL), stretch/recovery 20% 2 back yoke 2 - 135-145-150-160-165-170- 3 sleeve 2 180 cm gold-coated linen-blend 4 front 1 fabric (LI/CV/PES/PU), width 5 side front 2 125 cm, stretch/recovery 10% 4 5 7 6 6 back 2 - 25 cm clear elastic tape, width 7 side back 2 5 mm, Framilon® - invisible zipper, length 40 cm PATTERN SHEET D black - iron-on hemming tape

CUTTING shoulder seams with clear elastic tape turned-under edge to neckline close to Wrap ends of zipper tapes over neckline Cut yokes and sleeves from interlock knit following instructions for design 31. edge. edge to wrong side, turn zipper right way and other garment pieces from linen- Joining body of dress: Pin and stitch Joining: Pin and stitch yokes to dress up and secure ends of zipper tapes to blend fabric as indicated on list of pattern side fronts to front panel right sides front and backs right sides together. Press neckline with short rows of back-and- pieces, placing center-front edges of pat- together. Press seam allowances gently seam allowances toward yokes. Stitch forth stitching. Stitch center-back seam tern pieces on fabric fold and adding toward front panel. Stitch side backs to sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve under- from bottom of zipper placket to bottom 10 mm seam allowances to other edges. back panels in the same way. arm seams and side seams. Fold up and hem. Cut also 3 cm wide facing strip from in- Yokes and neckline: Pin front and back press hems at bottom edges of sleeves Finishing: Finish raw bottom-hem edge. terlock knit for finishing neckline. Measure yokes right sides together and stitch and stitch them with 3-thread coverstitch Sew row of ease-stitching along outer required length of facing on pattern pieces shoulder seams. Press seam allowances or with twin needle on regular sewing edge of bottom-hem seam allowance and and add seam allowances. toward back yoke. Pin and stitch one edge machine. pull up bobbin thread to ease out the of neckline facing to neckline right sides Zipper: Finish raw center-back edges. fullness of hem. Fold up and press bottom SEWING together. Trim neckline seam allowances Open zipper. Pin one zipper half to center- hem as marked on pattern. Attach hem Construction techniques: Stitch seams and clip them along curves. Understitch back edge right sides together, aligning using iron-on hemming tape; cut clips on with straight stitch and finish them with neckline seam allowances to neckline top end of zipper coil with neckline edge, edge of tape to make it curve along hem- serger or zigzag stitch. facing close to seamline. Fold facing to and stitch it in place using invisible zipper line. Stabilizing shoulder seams: Stabilize wrong side of neckline, turn seam allow- foot. Stitch the other zipper half to the ance at its free edge under and stitch other center-back edge in the same way.

26. Stars and Stripes hoodie 128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 4, 6-7

8 7 MATERIALS - 55-60-60-65-65-70-70-70 cm PATTERN PIECES cut star-patterned and 60-65-65-70- 70-75-75-80 cm yellow-striped 1 front 1 organic-cotton single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% 3 2 back 1 1 2 3 sleeve 2 - 45 cm mélange cotton/viscose 4 sleeve cuff 2 blend single jersey (CO/CV/EL), 5 hem band 2 stretch/recovery 30% 7 placket piece 1 - piece of interfacing, Vlieseline® 8 hood 2+2 G 785 - 3 open-ring snap fasteners, 5 4 ø 10 mm, Prym PATTERN SHEET D green

CUTTING binding strip in the width that fits the Stitch front placket with straight stitch. tions for design 15. Cut front and back from star-patterned, binder. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side Joining: Pin sleeves to front and back outer hood panels from mélange and seams as well as neckline seam and top/ panels right sides together and stitch and other garment pieces from striped single SEWING back seams of hood sections with serger topstitch raglan seams as instructed above jersey as indicated on list of pattern Construction techniques: Stitch raglan or with overedge stretch stitch on regular in Construction techniques. Stitch sleeve pieces, placing center-front and center- seams as follows: Place garment pieces sewing machine. See general instructions underarm seams and side seams. Fold back edges of pattern pieces on fabric right sides together and stitch seam with for finishing edges with binding on p. 44. underarm seam allowances to one side fold and adding 7 mm seam allowances straight stitch. Trim seam allowances to Front placket: Fuse interfacing to plack- at bottom edges of sleeves and stitch to all other edges except face edges of 5 mm and press seam open. Topstitch et piece. Construct placket on front panel them flat for a couple of centimeters. hood panels. Cut also 3.5 cm wide binding seam from right side of garment with 5- following illustrated instructions on page Stitch side seams of hem bands right sides strip from mélange single jersey for fin- thread coverstitch or with suitable deco- 45. together. Stitch band to garment’s bot- ishing face edge of hood. If you use a rative stitch on regular sewing machine Sleeve cuffs: Stitch sleeve cuffs to bot- tom-hem edge in the same way as cuffs binder attachment on your coverstitch (e.g. honeycomb stitch). tom edges of sleeves following instruc- to sleeves. machine to attach the binding, cut the >>> Hood: Pin hood panels right sides to- edges and bottom edges together. Finish edges of front placket. Fold front placket Finishing: Attach snap fasteners to front gether in pairs and stitch top/back seams face edge of hood with binding. facings onto right side of garment, over placket as marked on pattern. on both outer hood and hood lining. Pin hood to garment’s neckline, with bottom-front corners of hood on hood Press seams. Place outer hood and hood outer hood against right side of garment lining side, and machine-baste their top lining within one another, wrong sides and aligning face edge of hood with outer edges to front neckline. Stitch neckline together, and machine-baste their face seam with serger.

27. Urban Denim sweatshirt blazer 128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 4, 7

5 PATTERN PIECES cut 9 10 7 6 1 front 2 1 front facing 2 8 2 back 2 3 upper sleeve 2 4 under sleeve 2 1 5 upper collar 1 6 under collar 1 7 chest pocket 1 1 2 3 4 8 pocket 2 9 back facing 1 10 elbow patch 2

PATTERN SHEET B orange

with straight stitch and finish them with Sleeves: Pin elbow patches to upper line edge of collar, placing them on each serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching sleeves as marked on pattern. Machine- side of center-back mark. MATERIALS using presser-foot edge as guide unless baste straight edges of elbow patches to Pin front and back facings right sides to- - 100-110-115-125-125-135-140- otherwise instructed. Stitch coverstitching seam allowances on upper sleeves and gether and stitch shoulder seams. Press 145 cm denim-color and a piece with 5-thread coverstitch or use suitable stitch their curved edges to sleeves with seams open. Finish raw outer edge of fac- of grey sweatshirt knit (CO/EL), decorative stitch on regular sewing ma- 5-thread coverstitch. Pin upper sleeves ing section. Pin and stitch facing to gar- stretch/recovery 25%, width chine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). Use con- and under sleeves right sides together ment’s front edges and neckline right 165 cm trast-color threads for topstitching and and stitch back seam of each sleeve. Fold sides together, with collar in between. coverstitching. seam allowances toward upper sleeves Trim seam allowances around outward - 50…70 cm interfacing, Vlieseline® and topstitch seams. H 180 Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to upper corners and clip to stitching at inward - 2 metal buttons, ø 20 mm collar, front and back facings, and hem Joining: Pin back panels right sides to- corners. Turn facing section right side out allowances on sleeves, pockets and front gether and stitch and topstitch center- and press it thoroughly. Fold up and press - 10 cm piece of grosgrain ribbon, and back panels, as well as to shoulder back seam. Pin front and back panels right bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems. Top- width 6 mm, for hanging loop seam allowances on back panels. See areas sides together and stitch shoulder seams. stitch front edges and outer edge of collar - contrast-color sewing thread and shaded in grey on small-scale patterns. Fold seam allowances toward back panel with continuous line of stitching, starting topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 Pockets: Fold and press hems at opening and topstitch seams. Pin and stitch sleeves and ending stitching at outer edge of bot- edges of pockets and stitch them with 5- to armholes, fold seam allowances toward tom hem allowance (see design sketch). thread coverstitch. Sew row of ease- body of garment and topstitch seams. Pin outer edge of back facing to back Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side panel and stitch it in place close to edge. CUTTING stitching within seam allowance along curved edge of each pocket. Make card- seams. Finishing: Stitch bottom hem and sleeve- Trace pattern piece for front facing from board template with pattern piece for Collar and front facings: Pin collar edge hems with 3-thread coverstitch or pattern for front. Cut elbow patches from pocket. Lay pocket on an ironing board pieces right sides together and stitch their with twin needle on regular sewing ma- grey and other garment pieces from den- wrong side up. Lay pocket template on outer edges. Understitch seam allowances chine. Stitch buttonholes on left front im-color sweatshirt knit as indicated on wrong side of pocket. Holding template to under collar close to seamline. Fold panel and sew buttons on right front list of pattern pieces, placing center-back and pocket against ironing board, pull up collar pieces right sides together and panel as marked on pattern. edges of pattern pieces for back facing bobbin thread of ease-stitching evenly to stitch ends of collar. Turn collar right side and collars on fabric fold and adding turn pocket seam allowances over edge out, press it and machine-baste its open 10 mm seam allowances to other edges. of template to wrong side and press. edges together. Stitch collar to garment’s Remove template. Pin pockets to front neckline as marked on pattern. Fold gros- SEWING panels as marked on pattern and stitch grain ribbon into hanging loop and ma- Construction techniques: Stitch seams them in place close to edge. chine-baste its ends to right side of neck-

28. Denim Look jersey jeans 128-134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 4, 6-7

CUTTING with straight stitch and finish them with of stitching. Stitch bar-tacks with narrow, MATERIALS Join pattern pieces 1+1A and 2+2A be- serger or zigzag stitch. Decrease needle short zigzag, making them approx. 10 mm - 85-90-95-100-105-105-110- fore cutting. Cut garment pieces from thread tension slightly and stretch garment long. 115 cm firm, denim-look jersey jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces gently as you sew to produce Front-hip pockets: Construct front- knit with good recovery pieces, adding 10 mm seam allowances durable seams. You can shrink seams back hip pockets following instructions for to their right length by steaming them. (CO/PES/EL), stretch/ to all edges. design 16. Stitch edges of pocket openings recovery 30% Topstitch side seams and hems at opening to pocket pieces, starting from waist edge edges of back pockets with three parallel - contrast-color topstitching SEWING and stitching for approx. 8 cm along lines thread, Epic no. 80 rows of stitching and topstitch the other of topstitching. >>> Construction techniques: Stitch seams seams and edges with two parallel rows - 55…75 cm elastic, width 30 mm 3 1 2 Pants front: Pin pants fronts right sides sides together and stitch side seams. Fold together and stitch center-front seam seam allowances toward pants backs and (note that along mock fly, stitching line topstitch side seams. Stitch leg inseams. 4 runs along outer edges of mock fly ex- Fold up, press and stitch hems at bottom 1A 2A tensions). Pin mock fly extensions to left edges of legs. pants front and stitch them in place with Waistline: Fold and press waist casing. two parallel rows of topstitching. Topstitch Measure and cut piece of elastic to fit center-front seam from bottom of mock the child’s waist and stitch its ends to- 5 fly to crotch. Stitch bar-tacks on mock fly gether to form circle. Mark elastic into and at edges of front-hip pocket openings quarters. Pin elastic to waist casing allow- as shown in design sketch. ance, aligning quarter marks with center- Pants back: Fold, press and topstitch front, center-back and side seams and PATTERN PIECES cut hems at opening edges of back pockets placing top edge of elastic along casing as marked on pattern. Turn and press foldline. Machine-baste elastic to waist 1+1A pants front 2 seam allowances at other pocket edges casing allowance by stitching vertically 2+2A pants back 2 to wrong side. Pin and topstitch pockets across it at quarter marks. Fold casing 3 pocket piece 2 to pants backs as marked on pattern. Pin allowance with elastic to wrong side and pants backs right sides together and stitch stitch it in place along bottom edge of 4 pocket facing 2 center-back seam. Fold seam allowances elastic with two parallel rows of stitching, 5 back pocket 2 toward left pants back and topstitch seam. stretching elastic as you sew. Joining: Pin pants front and back right PATTERN SHEET E blue

29. Peter Pan shirt 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 62, 65

9 10

1

2 2 4 PATTERN PIECES cut 1 shoulder yoke 1 CUTTING 2 left front panel 1 Trace pattern piece for right front panel 2 right front panel 1 from pattern for left front panel, observing 3 front facing 1+1 MATERIALS markings on small-scale pattern. Cut 4 back 1 - 110-110-115-120-125-130- garment pieces from fabric as indicated 5 sleeve 2 on list of pattern pieces, placing center- 6 sleeve cuff 2 5 135 cm cotton poplin with slight back edges of pattern pieces on fabric stretch (CO/EL), stretch/ fold and adding 10 mm seam allowances 7 pocket 1 3 recovery 5% to other edges. Cut also two 3 cm x 18 8 pocket flap 2 - 45…64 cm interfacing, Vlieseline® cm strips for cuff placket bindings. 9 collar 2 8 H 180 10 collar stand 2 - 12…14 open-ring snap fasteners, SEWING 7 ø 10 mm Follow instructions for design 18. PATTERN SHEET E black 6

30. Never Never Land pants 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Pages 62, 65

7 2 9 8 PATTERN PIECES cut 6 MATERIALS 1 3 1+1A pants front 2 2 back yoke 2 - 95-100-105-105-110-115-120 cm 3+3A pants back 2 stretch satin (CO/PES/EL), 4 pocket piece 2 stretch/recovery 8% 5 pocket facing 2 - 5 cm interfacing, Vlieseline® 6 back pocket 2 H 180 4 7 waistband 1 - zipper, length 9-9-10-10- 1A 3A 8 fly shield 1 11-11-12cm 9 piping trim* 2 - snap fastener, ø 15 mm - matching topstitching thread, 5 PATTERN SHEET E red Epic no. 80 CUTTING pocket openings on pants fronts using pocket facings right sides together and Belt loops: Follow instructions for design Join pattern pieces 1+1A and 3+3A be- presser-foot edge as guide and topstitch stitch bottom of each pocket. Pin and 16. fore cutting. Cut garment pieces from seams and other edges close to seamline machine-baste pockets to waist and side Waistline: Pin and stitch right side of satin as indicated on list of pattern pieces, or edge; use matching topstitching thread. seam allowances of pants fronts. inner half of waistband to wrong side of placing center-back edge of pattern piece Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to waistband Back pockets: Fold, press and stitch pants waist. Fold waistband right sides for waistband on fabric fold and adding and fly facing (see areas shaded in grey hems at opening edges of back pockets together and stitch its ends. Trim corners 10 mm seam allowances to other edges. on small-scale patterns). as marked on pattern. Turn and press and turn ends of waistband right side out. *Pattern piece for piping trim includes Front-hip pockets: Pin and stitch pocket seam allowances at other pocket edges Turn waistband right way up, turn seam seam allowances. Cut also 3 cm x 40 cm facings to edges of pocket openings on to wrong side, pin pockets to pants backs allowance at its free outer edge under strip for belt loops. pants fronts, right sides together. Clip as marked on pattern and topstitch in and stitch edge to right side of pants seam allowances along curves. Understitch place. waist. Stitch free ends of belt loops to SEWING seam allowances to pocket facings close Joining: Follow instructions for design top edge of waistband. Attach snap fas- Construction techniques: Stitch seams to seamline. Fold pocket facings to wrong 16. tener to waistband as marked on pattern. with straight stitch and finish them with side of pants fronts and topstitch edges serger or zigzag stitch. Topstitch edges of of pocket openings. Pin pocket pieces to

31. Penguin nightdress 86-92-98-104-110-116-122 cm Page 54

CUTTING bottom edges of sleeves (length = child’s Cut button band from solid-color and arm circumference plus 2…3 cm). Ma- other garment pieces from printed single chine-baste tapes to bottom edges of 3 2 jersey as indicated on list of pattern sleeves, stretching them evenly as you pieces, placing center-front and center- sew. Finish bottom edges of sleeves with back edges of pattern pieces on fabric binding, concealing clear elastic tapes fold and adding 7 mm seam allowances within binding. to all other edges except neckline and Button band: Fold and press seam al- bottom edges of sleeves. Cut 3.5 cm wide lowances at long edges and bottom edge binding strips from ribbing for finishing of button band to wrong side. Pin and neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. If stitch button band to front panel with 1 1 you use a binder attachment on your straight stitch close to edge. coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, Stabilizing shoulder seams: Cut two cut the binding strips in the width that pieces of clear elastic tape for stabilizing fits the binder. shoulder seams (measure required length on pattern and add seam allowances). Machine-baste tapes to right side of shoul- SEWING der seam allowances on back panel (on Construction techniques: Stitch seams finished garment, tapes will be concealed with serger or with overedge stretch between seam allowances). stitch on regular sewing machine. See Joining: Pin front and back right sides general instructions for finishing edges MATERIALS together and stitch left shoulder seam. with binding on p. 44. Finish neckline with binding. Stitch right - 75-80-85-90-95-100-105 cm Sleeves: Cut two 6 cm pieces of clear shoulder seam. Fold shoulder seam allow- printed and a piece of solid- elastic tape for gathering sleeve caps. ances to one side and stitch them flat PATTERN PIECES cut color organic-cotton single jersey Machine-baste tapes between pattern across neckline binding. Stitch sleeves to (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% markings along sleeve caps, placing them armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams 1 front 1 - 7 cm ribbing (CO/EL), width on right side of sleeves and stretching and side seams. Fold underarm seam 1 back 1 90 cm them slightly as you sew to gather sleeve allowances to one side and stitch them 2 sleeve 2 - 75…85 cm clear elastic tape, caps. On finished garment, clear elastic flat across sleeve-edge bindings. Fold up 3 button band 1 width 5 mm, Framilon® tapes will be concealed between seam and press bottom hem and stitch it with - 3 small buttons, ø 8 mm allowances. 3-thread coverstitch or with twin needle Cut two pieces of clear elastic tape for on regular sewing machine. Sew buttons PATTERN SHEET E orange on button band.

32. Big Sis nightdress 128-134-140-146-152-158 cm Page 54 2 You can sew the nightdress for girls 1 1 of height 3 164-170 cm using PATTERN PIECES cut the pattern for 1A 1A design 38, women’s 1+1A front 1 nightdress. 1+1A back 1 2 sleeve 2 3 button band 1

MATERIALS PATTERN SHEET E lilac - 110-115-115-120-165-180 cm printed and a piece of solid- CUTTING binding strips from ribbing for finishing color organic-cotton single jersey Join pattern pieces 1+1A before cutting. neckline and bottom edges of sleeves. If (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% Cut button band from solid-color and you use a binder attachment on your - 7 cm ribbing (CO/EL), width other garment pieces from printed single coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, 90 cm jersey as indicated on list of pattern cut the binding strips in the width that - 90…100 cm clear elastic tape, pieces, placing center-front and center- fits the binder. width 5 mm, Framilon® back edges of pattern pieces on fabric - 3 small buttons, ø 8 mm fold and adding 7 mm seam allowances SEWING to all other edges except neckline and Follow instructions for design 31. bottom edges of sleeves. Cut 3.5 cm wide 33. North Pole pajama top 86-92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Page 54

4 MATERIALS - 45-50-50-55-55-60-60-65 cm printed and a piece of solid- PATTERN PIECES cut color organic-cotton single jersey 2 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% 1 front 1 - 15 cm ribbing (CO/EL), width 1 back 1 90 cm 1 1 2 sleeve 2 - piece of interfacing, Vlieseline® 3 sleeve cuff 2 H 180 4 button band* 2 - 20…25 cm clear elastic tape, width 5 mm, Framilon® - three snap fasteners, ø 12 mm 3 PATTERN SHEET F green

CUTTING sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). cut from neckline along center-front line together and stitch shoulder seams. Finish Cut sleeve cuffs from ribbing, button Stitch front placket with straight stitch. as far as 2 cm above ends of stitching neckline with binding and leave a little bands from solid-color single jersey and See general instructions for finishing edges lines on button bands and clip diagonally extra at each end of binding. Wrap ends other garment pieces from printed single with binding on p. 44. to ends of stitching lines, forming a triangle of binding tightly to wrong side and stitch jersey as indicated on list of pattern Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to button at bottom of placket. them to neckline binding 5 mm from pieces, placing center-front and center- bands (see area shaded in grey on small- Fold each button band in half wrong sides edges of button bands. Trim excess binding back edges of pattern pieces on fabric scale pattern). together and press. Topstitch folded off close to stitching. fold and adding 7 mm seam allowances Sleeve cuffs: Stitch sleeve cuffs to bottom outer edges of bands close to edge. Fold Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve to all other edges except neckline. *Pat- edges of sleeves following instructions button bands right way up. Turn seam underarm seams and side seams. Fold tern piece for button band includes seam for design 15. allowances at interfaced edges of button underarm seam allowances to one side allowances. bands to wrong side, pin edges to right at bottom edges of sleeves and stitch Front placket: Mark center-front line, Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strip from ribbing side of placket edges and stitch them in them flat for a couple of centimeters. starting from neckline, on wrong side of place close to edge. Overlap button bands, Fold up and press bottom hem as marked for finishing neckline. If you use a binder front panel with tailor’s chalk or by basting. attachment on your coverstitch machine pin them together and machine-baste on pattern and stitch it with 3-thread Pin right sides of button bands to wrong their bottom edges together. Pin and coverstitch or with twin needle on regular to attach the binding, cut the strip in the side of front panel, placing bands on each width that fits the binder. stitch triangle at bottom of placket to sewing machine. side of center-front line and aligning their button bands right sides together. Finish non-interfaced edges with center-front Finishing: Attach snap fasteners to but- SEWING seam allowances at bottom of placket ton bands as marked on pattern. line. Stitch button bands in place along together. Construction techniques: Stitch seams their non-interfaced edges, placing stitch- with serger or with overedge stretch ing 1 cm away from center-front line on Stabilizing shoulder seams: Stabilize stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch front panel and ending it 1 cm above shoulder seams with clear elastic tape coverstitching with 5-thread coverstitch bottom edge of button band. Slash placket following instructions for design 31. or use suitable decorative stitch on regular opening from right side of front panel: Joining: Pin front and back right sides

34. Cousin Jim’s pajama top 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Page 54

PATTERN PIECES cut MATERIALS - 90-95-100-105-110-115-120 cm 1 front 1 4 printed and a piece of solid- 1 back 1 color organic-cotton single jersey 2 sleeve 2 (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30% 3 sleeve cuff 2 2 - 15 cm ribbing (CO/EL), width 4 button band* 2 90 cm 1 1 - piece of interfacing, Vlieseline® PATTERN SHEET black H 180 F - 25…30 cm clear elastic tape, width 5 mm, Framilon® - 3 snap fasteners, ø 12 mm CUTTING and SEWING 3 Follow instructions for design 33. 35. Fall Asleep pajama pants 86-92-98-104-110-116-122-128 cm Page 54

CUTTING together and pin its free edge to bottom- Cut pants panels from single jersey and leg seam. Stitch cuff in place from right bottom-leg cuffs from ribbing as indicated side of leg with 5-thread coverstitch, on list of pattern pieces, adding 7 mm placing stitching in the middle of seamline. 1 seam allowances to all edges. Joining: Fold pants panels in half right sides together and stitch leg inseams. Fold SEWING seam allowances to one side and stitch Construction techniques: Stitch seams them flat for a couple of centimeters at 2 with serger or with overedge stretch bottom edges of legs. Turn left pants half stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch right side out and place it within right coverstitching with 5-thread coverstitch pants half right sides together. Stitch crotch seam, leaving small opening across MATERIALS or use suitable decorative stitch on regular sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). waist casing allowance at back for inserting - 50-50-55-60-60-65-70-75 cm elastic. PATTERN PIECES cut printed organic-cotton Bottom edges of legs: Stitch bottom- leg cuffs to bottom edges of legs as fol- Waistline: Fold, press and stitch waist single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/ lows: Pin and stitch one edge of cuff to casing as marked on pattern. Measure 1 pants panel 2 recovery 30% bottom edge of leg right sides together, and cut piece of elastic to fit the child 2 bottom-leg cuff 2 - 25 cm ribbing (CO/EL) stretching cuff slightly as you sew. Press and insert it into waist casing. Stitch ends - 50…60 cm elastic, width 20 mm seam open, fold cuff in half wrong sides of elastic together and close opening on casing by hand-stitching. PATTERN SHEET F orange

36. Jim’s pajama pants 134-140-146-152-158-164-170 cm Page 54

1 PATTERN PIECES cut 1 pants panel 2 2 bottom-leg cuff 2 MATERIALS PATTERN SHEET lilac - 75-80-85-85-90-95-95 cm F printed organic-cotton 2 single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/ CUTTING and SEWING recovery 30% Follow instructions for design 35. - 30 cm ribbing (CO/EL) - 62…70 cm elastic, width 30 mm

37. Sandman night jumpsuit 104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm Page 55

4

3 1 2 MATERIALS 6 5 - 95-100-105-110-120-130-140- 155 cm printed and a piece of solid-color organic-cotton single 1A 2A PATTERN PIECES cut jersey (CO/EL), stretch/ recovery 30% 1+1A front 1 - 25 cm striped ribbing (CO/EL), 2+2A back 2 width 140 cm 3 sleeve 2 - piece of interfacing, Vlieseline® 4 button band* 2 H 180 5 sleeve cuff 2 - 25…30 cm clear elastic tape, 6 bottom-leg cuff 2 width 5 mm, Framilon® - 6…7 plastic snap fasteners, ø 12 mm, Prym Colors PATTERN SHEET E green CUTTING SEWING Sleeve cuffs: Stitch sleeve cuffs to bottom underarm seams and side seams as con- Join pattern pieces 1+1A and 2+2A be- Construction techniques: Stitch seams edges of sleeves following instructions tinuous seams from bottom edges of fore cutting. Cut sleeve cuffs and bottom- with serger or with overedge stretch for design 15. sleeves to bottom edges of legs. Fold leg cuffs from ribbing, button bands from stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch Front placket: Construct front placket underarm seam allowances to one side solid-color single jersey and other gar- coverstitching with 5-thread coverstitch following instructions for design 33. at sleeve edges and stitch them flat for a few of centimeters. Stitch bottom-leg ment pieces from printed single jersey as or use suitable decorative stitch on regular Joining: Pin front and back panels right indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing sewing machine (e.g. honeycomb stitch). cuffs to bottom edges of legs in the same sides together and stitch shoulder seams. way as sleeve cuffs to sleeves. Stitch leg center-front of pattern on fabric fold and Stitch front placket with straight stitch. Stitch center-back seam. Finish neckline adding 7 mm seam allowances to all other See general instructions for finishing edges inseams. Fold inseam seam allowances to with binding and leave a little extra at one side at bottom edges of legs and edges except neckline. *Pattern piece for with binding on p. 44. each end of binding. Wrap ends of binding button band includes seam allowances. stitch them flat for a couple of centime- Stabilizing: Fuse interfacing to button tightly to wrong side and stitch them to ters. Cut 4.5 cm wide binding strip from ribbing bands (see area shaded in grey on small- neckline binding 5 mm from edges of but- for finishing neckline. If you use a binder scale pattern). Stabilize shoulder seams ton bands. Trim excess binding off close Finishing: Attach snap fasteners to but- attachment on your coverstitch machine with clear elastic tape following instruc- to stitching. ton bands as shown in design sketch. to attach the binding, cut the strip in the tions for design 31. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve width that fits the binder.

38. Sweet Mama nightdress 34/36 - 38/40 - 42/44 - 46/48 - 50/52 (women’s sizes) Page 57

You’ll find women’s size charts on our Sleeves: Cut two 6 cm pieces of clear 3 blog! elastic tape for gathering sleeve caps. Machine-baste tapes between pattern markings along sleeve caps, placing them CUTTING on right side of sleeves and stretching Join pattern pieces 1+1A and 2+1A them slightly as you sew to gather sleeve 1 2 before cutting. Cut garment pieces from caps. On finished garment, clear elastic single jersey as indicated on list of pattern tapes will be concealed between seam pieces, placing center-front and center- allowances. Finish bottom edges of sleeves back edges of pattern pieces on fabric with binding. fold and adding 7 mm seam allowances Stabilizing shoulder seams: Stabilize to all other edges except neckline and shoulder seams with clear elastic tape 1A 1A bottom edges of sleeves. following instructions for design 31. Cut 3.5 cm wide binding strips from Joining: Pin front and back right sides ribbing for finishing neckline and bottom together and stitch left shoulder seam. edges of sleeves. If you use a binder Finish neckline with binding. Stitch right attachment on your coverstitch machine shoulder seam. Fold shoulder seam allow- MATERIALS to attach the bindings, cut the binding ances to one side and stitch them flat strips in the width that fits the binder. across neckline binding. Stitch sleeves to - 140-140-185-250-255 cm striped armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams PATTERN PIECES cut organic-cotton single jersey SEWING and side seams. Fold underarm seam (CO/EL), stretch/recovery 30%, Construction techniques: Stitch seams allowances to one side and stitch them 1+1A front 1 width 160 cm with serger or with overedge stretch flat across sleeve-edge bindings. Fold up 2+1A back 1 - 7 cm ribbing stitch on regular sewing machine. See and press bottom hem and stitch it with 3 sleeve 2 - 40…50 cm clear elastic tape, general instructions for finishing edges 3-thread coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. width 5 mm, Framilon® with binding on p. 44. PATTERN SHEET F red

39. Cameraman pajama top 48-50-52-54 (men’s sizes) Page 57

You’ll find men’s size charts on our blog! CUTTING general instructions for finishing edges Cut garment pieces from single jersey as with binding on p. 44. indicated on list of pattern pieces, placing Stabilizing shoulder seams: Stabilize 1 1 center-front and center-back edges of shoulder seams with clear elastic tape pattern pieces on fabric fold and adding following instructions for design 31. 7 mm seam allowances to all other edges Joining: Finish bottom edges of sleeves except neckline and bottom edges of with binding. Pin front and back right sides 2 sleeves. together and stitch left shoulder seam. Cut 4.5 cm wide binding strips from rib- Finish neckline with binding. Stitch right MATERIALS bing for finishing neckline and bottom shoulder seam. Fold shoulder seam - 110-110-110-115 cm edges of sleeves. If you use a binder attach- allowances to one side and stitch them PATTERN PIECES cut ment on your coverstitch machine to flat across neckline binding. Stitch sleeves printed organic-cotton attach the bindings, cut the binding strips to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams single jersey (CO/EL), stretch/ in the width that fits the binder. and side seams. Fold underarm seam al- 1 front 1 recovery 30%, width 160 cm SEWING lowances to one side and stitch them flat 1 back 1 - 9 cm ribbing 2 sleeve 2 Construction techniques: Stitch seams across sleeve-edge bindings. Fold up and - 30…40 cm clear elastic tape, with serger or with overedge stretch press bottom hem and stitch it with 3- width 5 mm, Framilon® stitch on regular sewing machine. See thread coverstitch or with twin needle PATTERN SHEET A grey on regular sewing machine. EDGE FINISH WITH KNIT BINDING

The binding can be cut either from 2. Determine the length of the binding. Stitch one edge of binding to garment’s ribbing or from the same knit as the Binding cut from the knit used for edge, rights sides together, aligning rest of the garment. The most suitable the actual garment quarter marks and stretching binding knits are those that do not curl, such (stretch/recovery 20-30%): along curved portions of garment’s as interlock knit or rib knit. edge. Use straight stitch on a regular • length of binding = 0.85 x length of sewing machine, or alternatively stitch The binding can be stitched to the the edge to be finished, X cm garment using a binder attachment on on a serger. Stitching I. a serger. When using a binder, the Binding cut from ribbing Fold the other edge of binding over binding is cut in the width specified (stretch/recovery 40-50%): to wrong side of garment’s edge and by the serger instructions. The exact • length of binding = 0.70 x length of topstitch binding with twin needle (or cut length of the binding cannot be the edge to be finished, X cm with 3-thread coverstitch) from right specified in advance and you’ll find the Note! As the elasticity of different side close to edge. best technique for applying the binding knits tends to vary, the length of Stitching II. by experimenting. The edge finish will the binding should be checked by Neaten edge of binding on wrong side be neat and look very professional. experimenting on a piece of scrap of garment by carefully trimming off If you want to attach the binding on fabric before applying the binding to excess seam allowance. a regular sewing machine, use the the garment. Note! When finishing the neckline following method. Cut the binding in the width of 3.5 cm of a T-shirt with knit binding, stretch if the finished width of the binding is both the neck edge and the binding as 1. Measure the length of the edge to supposed to be 10-12 mm. you sew in order to produce an elastic be finished (=X cm) on the pattern 3. Applying the binding: seam. piece. Mark both binding and edge to be finished into quarters. Pictured here is a binder for an industrial coverstitch machine. Cor­ responding binder accessories are also available for most home coverstitch machines.

OTTOBRE design® 6/2015 Copyright © Studio Tuumat Oy 2015 FRONT PLACKET Design 26

1. Finish raw side and bottom edges of placket piece. Slash placket open­ ing on placket piece as marked on pattern. Pin placket piece to front panel right sides together (place slashed placket opening to the right of center-front line on front panel). Stitch along edges of placket with 3 mm seam allowance, gradually decreasing seam allowance as you approach bottom of placket. Slash placket opening on front panel between stitching lines. 2. and 3. Understitch seam allow­ ances at each edge of placket opening to placket piece close to seamline. 4. Turn placket piece to wrong side of front panel. Fold placket piece on right-hand side of placket wrong sides together along marked foldline to form placket underlap. 5. Overlap placket piece on left side 6. Pin placket facing and placket un­ of placket (= placket facing) with derlap to bottom of placket from right placket underlap, pin them together side of front panel and secure them and machine-baste their bottom in position by stitching a rectangle at edges together from wrong side. bottom of placket through all layers.

FLY-FRONT ZIPPER Designs 16, 30

The zipper application is for boys’ pants. For girls’ pants, interchange left and right in the instructions. 1. Construct fly shield: Fold fly shield piece in half, right sides together, and stitch bottom edges together. Turn shield right side out and serge or zigzag raw long edges together. Stitch zipper tape to fly shield. 2. Finish raw edges of zipper placket. 3. Fold seam allowance on narrower edge of zipper placket to wrong side. Pin and stitch fly shield under placket 5. Topstitch fly facing to garment’s front. edge. Fold fly shield out of the way as you sew. 4. Pin the other zipper tape to fly (6. Stitch bar- using short zigzag facing from wrong side, open zipper stitch at bottom of placket, catching fly and stitch it in place. shield in stitching.)

COLLAR WITH A STAND Designs 18, 29

1. Pin collar pieces right sides 2. Turn seam allowance at bottom edge sides together. Pin and stitch inner and 5. Pin bottom edge of inner collar together and stitch their ends and of inner collar stand to wrong side and outer collar stands right sides together, stand to neckline carefully and stitch it outer edges. Trim seam allowances stitch along edge using presser-foot with collar in between. Trim and clip in place close to edge. Topstitch around across corners, press seams open edge as guide. seam allowances around corners. collar stand and, at the same time, and turn collar right side out. topstitch garment’s front edges close 3. Pin bottom edge of collar to top 4. Turn collar stand right side out. Pin to edge. Topstitch around collar close to edge edge of inner collar stand, with inner and stitch bottom edge of outer collar and machine-baste its open bottom collar stand and upper collar right stand to garment’s neckline right sides edges together at the same time. together.

OTTOBRE design® 6/2015 Copyright © Studio Tuumat Oy 2015 Dear Subscriber to BUNNY OTTOBRE design® Design 15 magazine,

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