6/2015 Winter INSTRUCTIONS Please read the following the buttonholes should be placed at Materials Press the garment’s seams as you go general instructions before regular intervals (6…9 cm) between Fabric requirements are based on a along and give the garment a final starting your project. these points. fabric width of 145…150 cm. Pre­ press when it is completed. How to choose the correct For reasons of clarity, some of the shrink the fabric before cutting either Practical tips size pattern markings (e.g. positions of by washing or by steaming it thor­ Velcro tapes and buttons) have only oughly. If you choose a different fabric Gathering: Adjust your sewing ma­ Children’s pattern sizes are primari­ been printed on the smallest­size from the one suggested in the maga­ chine as follows: Decrease the up­ ly chosen according to the child’s pattern of the design. Copy these zine, allow for matching up fabric pat­ per thread tension and increase the height, and the pattern measurements in the corresponding places on the tern and for cutting with nap when stitch length (stitch length 4...5). Sew are then adjusted to correspond to pattern size of your choice, measuring calculating the fabric requirement. two rows of gathering stitches 0.5 cm the child’s other body measurements. the distance of each marking from apart from each other on the right Take the measurements on top of thin the edge of the pattern piece. Large Choose the interfacing on the basis side of the edge to be gathered, plac­ underwear and compare them with pattern pieces have been printed of the fashion fabric’s color, quality, ing one row on the seamline and the size chart. You will find detailed on the pattern sheet in two parts. weight and care instructions. the other within the seam allow­ instructions for taking measurements Combine parts A and B before cutting Since the quality and stretch of elas­ ance. Leave long thread ends. Gath­ on the next page. out the garment pieces. tics vary, check the elastic lengths be­ er the fabric by pulling simultaneously fore sewing. on both bobbin threads and spread­ How to find the pattern pieces Cutting ing the gathers between your fingers on the pattern sheet If a zipper is not available in a desired evenly over the required length. The Lay out the pattern pieces on a dou­ length, buy a longer zipper and short­ An overview of numbered, small­scale ble layer of fabric, observing the gathered edge is stitched in place be­ en it as shown in the illustration on tween the gathering stitches using a pattern pieces and a list of pattern markings for grainlines and foldlines. pattern sheet D. pieces can be found next to the sew­ Draw the seam allowances on the regular straight stitch. ing instructions for each design. The fabric with tailor’s chalk. Sewing Easing: Rows of ease­stitching are appropriate pattern sheet is also stat­ If you only need to cut a piece out Read through the instructions before sewn as gathering stitches but the ed. On the bottom edge of the pat­ bobbin threads are pulled just enough tern sheet, find the number with the once, observe the pattern markings you start sewing. If you wish, baste and cut either on a fold (e.g. back, col­ and try the garment on before sew­ to make the edge curve slightly (e.g. correct color for the desired pattern at set­in sleeve caps). piece and move your finger upward lar) or from a single layer of fabric ing. To make sewing easier, the instruc­ on the sheet until you locate the (e.g. pocket). tions have been written on the basis Garments lined with knit same number. of techniques used in the clothing in­ The measurements for garment dustry. The terms “inner”/”outer” and When the lining fabric is a knit and Trace the pattern on tissue paper, in­ pieces listed under the heading “Cut “left”/”right” refer to the garment the fashion fabric a woven, cut the cluding all the necessary markings also” (e.g. belt loops, belts) already when worn. lining out with considerably narrow­ (e.g. grainlines, notches, pocket place­ include seam allowances. When er seam allowances to keep the lining ments). The markings are also visible cutting out the garment, include Finish the construction seams of the from showing under the fashion fabric. on the small­scale patterns next to allowances for fitting adjustments garment after you have sewn them, the instructions. Make all adjustments if necessary. Each design includes even if the instructions do not spe­ to the pattern before cutting out the specific and detailed cutting cifically mention seam finish. You can garment pieces. instructions. either use a serger or a machine zig­ © Garment sections to be interfaced zag stitch for finishing the seams. On The designs, patterns, instructions, photos and arti­ Patterns knit fabrics, stitch the seams using cles in this magazine are protected under internation­ are shaded in grey in the overview a machine stretch­stitch or a serger. al copyright laws. Professional, industrial and commer­ The patterns include hem allowances, of small­scale pattern pieces. Knit cial use of the material and manufacture under license and woven interfacings are cut on the No separate seam finish is necessary. is only possible under a written agreement with the placket extensions and placket facings. Seams inside a lined garment do not copyright holder. For further information, contact us When cutting out the garment pieces, grain, while non­woven interfacings necessarily have to be finished. in writing at the following address: Studio Tuumat Oy, add seam allowances of approx. 1 cm may be cut in any direction as they do Rantavitikantie 33, FI­96300 Rovaniemi, Finland. (depending on the fabric) to each not have a grain. Interfacing pieces are On hems (e.g. at the garment’s bot­ Copyright © Studio Tuumat Oy, generally cut adding the same amount tom edge or sleeve edges) the seam Rovaniemi, Finland OTTOBRE design® edge of the pattern. or Studio Tuumat Oy has no obligation to compen­ of seam allowance (approx. 1 cm) as allowance is turned under and the sate for possible financial losses resulting from mis­ The position of the first or top but­ on pieces cut from fashion fabric. hem is stitched close to the turned­ prints or other errors on the pattern sheet or in ton/buttonhole has been marked on However, a smaller seam allowance under edge. The width of the hem the instructions. the pattern. On blouses and shirts the may be used on interfacings for and seam allowance is given in brack­ Copyright © Studio Tuumat Oy, top buttonhole on the front is approx. heavy­weight fabrics. ets; for example “stitch hem (2 cm + Rovaniemi, Finland 4 cm below the neck seamline and 1 cm)” means that the hem allowance the bottom buttonhole approx. 10 is 2 cm and the seam allowance 1 cm. cm above the hemline. The rest of MEASURING SIZE CHARTS THE CHILD For taking the measurements, you’ll BABIES 50-92 cm need a tape measure and a length of firm tape that is placed round the waist. You can sew a waist tape for Height cm 50 56 62 68 74 80 86 92 this purpose of a strip of cotton fold­ ed in four (finished width 1.5 cm). 1. Chest measurement 43 44.5 46 47.5 49 50.5 52 54 Place the tape horizontally round the child’s waist and secure with a safe­ 2. Waist measurement 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 ty pin. 3. Hip measurement 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 The child should stand upright with a relaxed posture with arms hanging 4. Sleeve length 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 free at the sides. 5. Inseam length 15 18 21 24 27 30 33.5 37 The measurements are taken on top of underwear (briefs and a light­ weight undershirt) close to the body, yet not too tight. It is advisable to take the measurements in front of a mirror so that you can see the posi­ TODDLERS 92-122 cm GIRLS AND BOYS tion of the tape measure behind the child. Height cm 92 98 104 110 116 122 Height of the child: With the child standing up with the 1. Chest measurement 54 56 58 60 62 64 back and heels against a wall, mark the height at the top of the head on 2. Waist measurement 53 54 55 56 57 58 the wall using a straight angle (e.g. a book). The height of the child is the 3. Hip measurement 58 60 62 64 66 68 distance measured from the floor to 4. Back waist length 22.5 24 25 26.5 28 29.5 the marking. Chest measurement: 5. Sleeve length 32 34 36 38 40 42 Horizontal measurement round the 6. Outseam length 54 58 62 66 70 74 body with the tape measure running over the chest and shoulder blades. 7. Shoulder width 8.0 8.4 8.8 9.2 9.6 10 Waist measurement: Measurement round the waist without the waist tape. Hip measurement: GIRLS 128-170 cm Horizontal measurement round the seat (the fullest part of the bottom). Outseam length: Height cm 128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170 Distance from the waist to the floor 1. Bust measurement 66 68 71 73 76 79 82 85 measured from the lower edge of the waist tape. 2.