Christmas Traditions in Provence
Provençal Christmas traditions are rooted in both charming local customs and historical religious rituals. During this festive season, called Calendale, villages throughout Provence host Christmas Markets, Santons Fairs, Lighting Festivals and Tours of Nativity Scenes leading up to Le Gros Souper on Christmas Eve and Les Treize desserts following Midnight Mass. Rent a luxury villa the south of France with family and friends for the holidays and delight in the regional mores.
The season officially kicks off on December 4, Saint Barbara’s, or St. Barbe’s, Day, when wheat and lentil seeds are planted into small dishes. Once the shoots grow, symbolizing a good harvest and prosperity for the new year, they are decorated with ribbon and are used as part of the Christmas Eve table decorations.
The Christmas crib, or crèche, is an important part of the nativity scene in Provence, dating back to the 17th century. Santons, or little saints, are small, handmade figurines sculpted from wood and clay. The santons are painted and decorated to represent various traditional professions, such as a baker, fishmonger or butcher, farm animals, and biblical characters to populate the nativity scene. Santons Fairs and Christmas Markets are a wonderful opportunity to add to one’s ever expanding santons collection.
On Christmas Eve, the dining table is covered with three white tablecloths of decreasing size, so that each layer is seen, and three white candles, symbolizing the Holy Trinity. The sprouted lentils and wheat planted on St Barbe’s are adorned with ribbon and sprigs of myrtle or holly to decorate the table.
Christmas Eve Dinner, or Le Gros Souper, is a meat-free meal featuring seven dishes of vegetables and regional fish specialties, such as l’argo bouido, a garlic and herb soup, and brandade de morue, made with cod and potato. The seven dishes represent the seven sorrows of the Virgin Mary.
Traditionally, the table remains set for three days of celebration, from the 24th to the 26th. As the family leaves for Midnight Mass, the leftovers remain on the table so that the angels and ancestors may also enjoy the feast.
Perhaps the most popular of the Christmas festivities is les treize desserts, or the thirteen desserts, to be enjoyed after Midnight Mass. These ritual deserts represent Jesus and the twelve apostles at the last supper and thus always number thirteen. Though the exact desserts may vary by local or family tradition, in essence they remain similar and fall into four basic categories — dried fruits and nuts, candied fruit, fresh fruit and pastry.
Dried figs, raisins, almonds and hazelnuts symbolize “the four beggars,” the Religious Orders of the Franciscans, Dominicans, Carmelites and Augustin monks.
Candied fruits include quince paste, white nougat, made of hazelnuts, pine nuts and pistachio, and black nougat, made of honey and almonds. Near Aix-en-Provence you’re likely to see Calisson d’Aix, a specialty of the region made from candied melon and ground almonds.
Fresh fruits are likely to be oranges, tangerines, apples, pears and grapes.
The star of the thirteen desserts ispompe à l’huile, sometimes called fougasse, a sweet, light, openwork bread made with olive oil and flavored with orange blossom water or lemon peel. To insure good fortune for the coming year,pompe à l’huile must be broken by hand, and never cut with a knife, the way Christ broke bread with the apostles.
Traditionally the thirteen desserts stay on the table for three days to share with visiting guests.
Calendale is a wonderful, celebratory time in the south of France and a fantastic time to visit. Travel to Provence for the holidays when you’ll find great options for villa rentals and lots of activities in which to partake throughout the region. Aix-en-Provence hosts celebrations throughout December, from lighting ceremonies to markets to an acclaimed santons festival. Enjoy the Festival of Nativity Scenes in Bonnieux, get in some last minute shopping at the Gordes Christmas Market, and try not to miss the famed Christmas Market in Saint Rémy de Provence.
Joyeuses Fêtes!
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11 Fun Things About Gordes
11 Fun Things About Gordes While Renting Your Luxury Villa
Designated one of the most beautiful villages in France, Gordes resides on a giant cal-careous rock from the monts de Vaucluse in Provence. An inspiration to artists such as Marc Chagall, the panoramic views of the Luberon valley from this hilltop village are nothing short of spectacular. There’s much to see and enjoy in and around Gordes and while each of these could stand on their own, here are 11 reasons to visit this special Provencal village.
1. You won’t find a wooden building in Gordes (or fences for that matter). All buildings are required to be made of the beautiful stone Provence is known for and use terra cotta roof tiles.
2. The castle, located in the center of the village, dates back to 1031 and was partially rebuilt in Renaissance style in 1525.
3. Locals and visitors love the vibrant, weekly Tuesday Market. Fresh bread, local pro-duce and fabrics abound. The farm land surrounding Gordes is known for growing al-monds, olives and grapes. While exploring the area, be sure to stop in at a few wineries to sample the local vin.
4. Space is limited in a fortified hill village. For protection during turbulent times, Gordes developed an underground network of more than 50 rooms dug into rock, now called the Saint-Firmain Palace cellars. Once used as storage areas and artisan’s workshops, this subterranean labyrinth also provided hiding places and escape routes.
5. The Cercle Repulicain, a historic café founded in 1911 as part of France’s network of Cercles Républicains, resides in the heart of the village. Ask to sit on the terrace enjoy to the picturesque views.
6. Surrounding the village are many little, quiet, well- preserved hamlets. The largest, in the valley southwest of Gordes, is called Les Imberts, which has it’s own 18th century church and two soccer stadiums. Consider renting a luxury villa in one of these hamlets for a peaceful getaway.
7. Just a short drive from Gordes, the Abbey de Sénanque was established in 1148 by Cistercian monks. The lavender fields blooming in front of the Abbey is perhaps the most recognized photograph of Provence. Today the the monks who live at Sénanque grow lavender and tend honey bees for their livelihood. The landscape of the valley where the Abbey lies is simply stunning and should not be missed. 8. The nearby Village of Bories, Le village des Bories, consists entirely of small, ovoid buildings made only of stone. Classified as a Historical Monument, the ancient drystone huts were built without the use of mortar and are thought to go back several centuries BC.
9. Set in a traditional Luberon farmhouse, the Lavender Museum, Musée de la La-vande, is filled with the delightful aroma of genuine lavender. Watch a short film and learn about about growing and distilling the iconic flower of Provence, take an audio tour of the museum including stills dating back to the 16th century, and do some shopping for authentic lavender products.
10. Filmmakers are taken with Gordes’ magnificent setting. Scenes from several mov-ies and television mini-series, including A Good Year, Mistral’s Daughter, A Year in Provence and Mr. Bean’s Holiday were filmed in Gordes.
11. The biggest festival in Gordes, Les Soirees d’été de Gordes, is an annual music festival in early August. As with many Provencal villages, Gordes holds festivals throughout the year — a wine festival in mid-August, a village festival in early October and an almond tree festival in spring.
Gordes is lovely to visit year round, whether it’s admiring the chateau, exploring the caves or simply enjoying a glass of rosé on the terrace, this charming village is a must see.
Interested in renting your own private luxury villa in Gordes? Contact Only Provence to get the inside scoop and plan your holiday in the Luberon! Highlights of Luberon
Highlights of the Luberon France
Exploring the hilltop villages of the Luberon mountain region is a must for travelers to the South of France. Much of the Luberon is a national park and the quaint, beautiful villages that occupy the area are extraordinarily picturesque, with sweeping, panoramic views of inland Provence. From various points and under the right conditions, you can see as far as the Mediterranean Sea, Mont Ventoux, Avignon and the edge of the French Alps. Originally built on mountain tops for protection, the villages are located near each other, making a day of visiting several towns and stunning sites doable without spending too much time in the car.
To get a real sense of the terroir, consider cycling or hiking through the Luberon, winding past vineyards, orchards, gardens and seasonal flowers in bloom. There’s an established network of walking and hiking trails suitable for all abilities, including families. The trails are extensive and well- maintained, taking you through the absolutely gorgeous countryside, through rolling hills, past wineries and alongside crumbling Roman ruins.
Each village has its own feel and unique characteristics, the remains of medieval castles, chapels and fortresses. The villages each have their own market day where you’ll find delicious locally grown produce, flowers, herbs, as well as spices, tablecloths, cured meats and cheeses. Wine production is an integral part of life in the region—stop into one of the village “cooperative”for a free tasting.
The village of L’Isle Sur La Sorgue is best known for antiques. The lively Sunday morning market is quite a sight, with an abundance of antiques, local produce, clothing and more. Enjoy strolling along the canals and outdoor, waterside dining. Visit nearby Fontaine de Vaucluse, the water source for the Sorgue river. If time allows, enjoy kayaking in this beautiful, natural setting.
Peter Mayle brought a wave of attention to the small village of Menerbes in writing A Year on Provence. This quaint, fortressed village is rich with 16th and 17th century architecture. A castle rests on top of a rocky outcrop, watching over neighboring Gordes and Roussillon, both listed among the most Beautiful Villages of France.
Three miles away, Oppede le Vieux, a quiet, ancient village with cobbled paths and ivy-covered stone buildings, houses two churches and the ruins of a castle, providing excellent views of the Luberon valley.
Built on a hilltop, Gordes offers breathtaking panoramic views of Provence. The allure of Gordes is wandering the narrow cobbled streets, admiring the stone buildings, and happening upon yet another fantastic view of the valley below. The landscape on the drive to nearby Abbey Notre Dame de Sénaque is nothing short of spectacular.
Goult is a quaint, hilltop village full of Provencal culture and history. To fully appreciate the beauty of Goult, take the self-guided walking tour through the village to see the windmill, the chateau and the magnificent views of the valley, then enjoy a glass of rosé at one of the region’s best terrace cafés, Cafe de la Poste.
Classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France, Roussillon is best known for its distinctive red cliffs, created by the world’s largest known ochre deposit. The color palette is striking, ranging from yellow to orange to pink to red. Walk through the village to admire the architecture and vibrant hues, visiting a few of the numerous restaurants and art galleries.
To get the best views from Bonnieux, be sure to climb the stairs leading to the old church. From this vantage point, take in the entire valley floor and a clear view of another hilltop village, Lacoste. The nearby Cedar Forest, planted in 1860, presents amazing views of the Luberon valley as well as an occasion to take a nice walk through the woods.
Lourmarin is the place to be if you are looking to browse boutiques and lunch in quaint cafes alongside cobblestone streets. A picturesque Renaissance castle sits near a fortified farmhouse dating back to the Middle Ages.
Interested in renting your own private luxury villa near the Luberon? Contact Only Provence to get the inside scoop and plan your holiday!
Planning Your Gordes Vacation
Planning Your Gordes Vacation
While on vacation in the south of France, be sure to visit Gordes, one of the most beautiful villages in Provence. Built on a hilltop, Gordes offers breathtaking panoramic views of the French countryside. Sunset is particularly wonderful time to go, perhaps to enjoy an aperitif in the Luberon.
As you round the final corner leading up to Gordes, you’ll be struck by the stunning village before you. Notice the stone lined road as you approach – this “pierres” theme will continue throughout. All houses in Gordes are required to be made of stone, fences included. There are a few places to stop to take pictures en route and the view definitely warrants a photo.
In the center of the village, you’ll find the a Renaissance style castle, established in 1031 and rebuilt in 1525. Continue a few steps further and you’ll find a charming church. Be sure to go inside — the interior is a classic treasure that transports you to another time.
The best way to soak in this gem of a village is to wander the narrow cobbled streets, winding your way through. You’ll no doubt happen upon yet another spectacular view of the valley be-low. Pop in and out of shops at your leisure and enjoy a coffee at one of the many quaint cafes or a meal from a selection of good restaurants.
Tuesday is market day in Gordes. Arrive early, before 10am, to beat the rush. You’ll find the market vendors very friendly, encouraging you to taste samples. Fresh fruit and vegetables, honey, cheese, oil, cured meats, fresh baked bread… all simply delicious!
Gather up what strikes your fancy at the market to enjoy a picnic lunch and head to the Abbey de Sénanque. While the lavender in front of the Abbey is an iconic in its own right — what no one tells you is that the drive to and from the Abbey is as magnificent. I found one of the best treats of the drive to be a little designated picnic area overlooking some of the most peaceful and serene views of the Luberon region.
Interested in renting your own private luxury villa in Gordes? Contact Only Provence to get the inside scoop and plan your holiday in the Luberon!
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Beef Carpaccio Salad Recipe
On a hot summer day in the south of France, my lunch entrée of choice is Beef Carpaccio Salad. While beef doesn’t immediately make you think ‘refreshing,’this salad is almost always exactly that. Raw beef is sliced paper thin and usually topped with arugula, parmesan and a light, tangy dressing (pesto is my favorite). Every chef has their own unique preparation and variations abound from restaurant to restaurant, but it is almost always delicious. With a nice balance of flavors and textures, this salad manages to be filling without being heavy and pairs wonderfully with a crisp, chilled glass of Rosé.
To prepare at home or at your vacation rental, freeze a lean cut of beef, then allow to thaw for one hour at room temperature and slice very thinly in strips with a sharpened kitchen knife.
Portions will be much smaller than a cooked steak as the raw beef is harder to digest, though still light and satisfying. Also a lovely summer dinner dish during hot weather with a light-bodied Pinot Noir.