Fact file s I gaze down the avenue of LUBERON & LUBERON & VENTOUX plane trees VENTOUX PRIMARY towards Château Captivating mountain views, welcoming châteaux and wines that match perfectly GRAPE VARIETIES APesquié, I’m surrounded by much of what the with the classic local cuisine. Look ahead to future holidays by planning a road trip Luberon diverse department in ’s Grenache Blanc, southeastern country has to offer: verdant through the beautiful countryside that straddles the regions of the Rhône Valley White Clairette Blanche, vineyards encircle the elegant château, and and in southeast France, says Carolyn Boyd Vermentino, the white-peaked towers above Bourboulenc, Roussanne, a landscape that cradles the Luberon and Marsanne, Ugni Blanc, Ventoux appellations. Nearby, sleepy Viognier is one of the many characterful Red Syrah, Grenache Noir, villages to explore both here and to the south Mourvèdre, Carignan, in the Luberon regional nature park. And, as if Cinsault this wasn’t enough to spoil me, the vineyards in the prestigious smaller appellations of Ventoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and White Grenache Blanc, are within a 40-minute drive. Roussanne, Bourboulenc, At Château Pesquié (www.chateaupesquie. Clairette, Marsanne, com), brothers Frédéric and Alexandre Viognier, Vermentino Chaudière are the third generation of their Red Carignan, Cinsault, family to make wine. They adore the location, Grenache Noir, Syrah, with Mont Ventoux lying just to the northeast. Mourvèdre ‘Here on the Rhône, we’re in a corridor between the mountains, but also close to the Mediterranean,’ explains Frédéric as he shows me around the vineyard. ‘Meanwhile, Mont Ventoux creates a kind of amphitheatre and, although the temperature is around 30°C in the day, it is much cooler at night, which allows for longer maturation – we’re one of the last to harvest in the whole area.’ We walk around the organically farmed vineyards, planted with parcels of 50-year-old Carignan vines, along with Cinsault, Grenache and Mourvèdre, Clairette, Roussanne and Viognier, and admire the nine-year-old Syrah vineyards planted with bright yellow blooms of broom and gypsum to improve soil quality. In the winery, soil samples and detailed three-dimensional maps demonstrate the unique geography and terroir. The Ventoux appellation (see map on p84) is quickly growing in popularity and this is one producer ready to offer guests a truly Provençale experience, with hampers for picnics in the gardens, vineyard walks and harvest days. Nearby, other family-run vineyards such as Domaine du Tix (www.domaine-du-tix.com) share the same 350m elevation, with its hot days and cool nights, and they also welcome visitors for tastings. Enchanting exploration To make the most of those hot days, I spend a couple of them in the Parc naturel régional du Diners relaxing on Luberon, which enjoys a similar climate to the a restaurant terrace Ventoux appellation just to its north. It’s also

in one of the most enchanting areas in this ➢ Images Fremont/Getty Stevens Photograph:

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SWITZERLAND GETTING THERE CrestetCrestet Geneva D977 DENTELLES Lyon D977 DENTELLES Milan DE MONTMIRAIL WineriesWineries toto visitvisit The easiest airport GIGONDASGIGONDAS DE MONTMIRAIL MONTMONT Turin VENTOUX FRANCE LeLe BarrouxBarroux 6 VENTOUX 11 ChâteauChâteau PesquiéPesquié to reach is Marseille, ITALY Orange 6 Orange 22 DomaineDomaine dudu TixTix which is served by Rhône Genoa COTESCOTES DUDU A7A7 VACQUEYRAS D938 33 DomaineDomaine dede lala CitadelleCitadelle Luberon and VACQUEYRAS D938 VENTOUXVENTOUX several airlines. The Vaucluse 44 AuretoAureto winewine cellarcellar Marseille CHATEAUNEUF-CHATEAUNEUF- 11 Mormoiron 5 Marrenon one nearer to the Mediterranean DU-PAPEDU-PAPE CarpentrasCarpentras Mormoiron 5 Marrenon Sea 66 ChêneChêne BleuBleu destinations detailed 22 here, however, is NesqueNesque NN D942D942 Pernes-les-Pernes-les- VenasqueVenasque

Avignon. Both Marseille and are served Rhône Fontaines Rhône Fontaines by direct trains on Eurostar. From Marseille, it is MONTSMONTS DEDE VAUCLUSEVAUCLUSE AbbayeAbbaye Notre-DameNotre-Dame Avignon AirportAirport dede SénanqueSénanque about a 90-minute drive to Mormoiron; from Avignon L’Isle-sur-L’Isle-sur- A7A7 GordesGordes Avignon, the drive is 45 minutes. la-Sorguela-Sorgue 44 VV A A U U C C L L U U S S E E D900D900 CoulonCoulon SOUTHERNSOUTHERN 33 RHONERHONE Ménerbes Bonnieux part of the Provence interior, abounding Ménerbes Bonnieux LUBERONLUBERON REGIONALREGIONAL COTESCOTES DUDU with golden-stone villages and lavender fields. NATIONALNATIONAL PARKPARK LUBERONLUBERON 00 55 1010 1515 The terroir offers conditions for vineyards to D973D973 kilometres AnsouisAnsouis kilometres A7A7 DuranceDurance produce perfect drinks for summer evenings 55 – fruity whites and pale rosés that pair so well with the region’s typical fish, olive oil and tomato-based dishes. At the Domaine de la Citadelle (www.domaine-citadelle.com), ‘Exploring the different villages Parc naturel régional du Luberon near the village of Ménerbes, it isn’t only the wide range of excellent wines that is one of the region’s greatest draws visitors, but its unusual collection of corkscrews, as well. pleasures, especially when so many The domaine’s Musée du Tire-Bouchon holds 1,200 bottle openers of every age, have good vineyards nearby’ My perfect day in Vaucluse provenance, shape and size. As I gaze into the many cabinets, it strikes me that getting into EVENING one’s bottle of wine as easily as possible has It’s just a 15-minute drive to Crillon le long been an art form. There is everything Brave*, a beautifully designed, ‘scattered’ from corkscrews that double as shaving On the hill behind the winery and museum, hotel that occupies different buildings in brushes, swords or pistols, to some salacious the domaine’s botanic garden overlooks the a once-dilapidated village. While the ones – brass legs akimbo, forming a ‘T’ shape. vineyards and Ménerbes perched on a ridge gastronomic restaurant has a more nearby, with raised beds that each contain a sophisticated menu, the view from the different herb or medicinal plant. Inhaling them terrace of the bistro is second to none: is as much a treat for the senses as the tasting a panorama that encompasses Mont I take part in when I return to the winery, Ventoux’s chalky peak, vineyards, olive sipping different blends of the 17 different groves and villages. Tuck into dishes Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque grapes grown across the vineyard’s 50ha. made with fresh Provençale produce as Exploring the different villages is one of the Carolyn Boyd is a you watch the sun go down. region’s greatest pleasures, especially when so widely published MORNING LUNCH & AFTERNOON many have good vineyards nearby. After journalist, editor and Take a quick dip in the pool before Double back for a light but delicious lunch For details of entries marked with an wandering the cobbled streets of Bonnieux, its communications breakfast at La Coquillade*, then head out at the bistro restaurant at Les Bories*, asterisk (*), please see p87 jumble of terracotta-roofed houses piled up on consultant, with along the road for the 15-minute journey then loop around to the west for a a hill, I drive on to the Aureto wine cellar particular interests to Domaine de la Citadelle (see left), a half-hour journey to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. (www.aureto.fr). Belonging to the nearby in travel and food family-run vineyard near Ménerbes that This is France’s capital of antiques, so luxury estate, La Coquillade, the breathtaking makes southern Rhône wines from 17 spend the afternoon exploring the flea views add a further wow factor to the award- different grape varieties. It also has a markets on the river’s quaysides and the winning wines here. quirky corkscrew museum and botanic enclaves known as villages for vintage The architecturally striking winery, with garden. Enjoy a vertical tasting, then head finds and curious objets, as well as high- its filigree-iron wall coverings, offers tastings, on towards Gordes, a 20-minute drive quality antiques. For a late-afternoon workshops and tours. Further to the north through wild countryside and winery tour and tasting, visit Château southeast, beyond , a village with fragrant maquis. Explore the village, then Pesquié (see p83) near Mormoiron, half an a medieval château, you can explore the head north for a hair-raising drive along hour north. The winery exhibits give an vineyard of the Marrenon wine estate dramatic gorges to the Abbaye Notre- excellent explanation of the terroirs of (www.marrenon.com) in the company of one of Dame de Sénanque (www.senanque.fr), the Ventoux appellation, and it offers its winemakers, complete with a gourmet where monks grow lavender in the fields tastings of the wines made from such Domaine de la Citadelle Crillon le Brave Photographs: Domaine de la Citadelle; www.senanque.fr; iStock/Getty Images Plus. Maps: Maggie Nelson Maggie Maps: Plus. Images iStock/Getty www.senanque.fr; Citadelle; la de Domaine Photographs: picnic among the vines. ➢ outside the famous abbey. varieties as Grenache, Syrah and Viognier.

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Your Luberon & Ventoux address book

ACCOMMODATION Château de Montcaud, Sabran A short hop over the Rhône river, this new four-star hotel run by friendly Swiss couple Rolf and Andrea Bertschi has a superb restaurant and a very Les Bories knowledgeable sommelier. Makes a good base if you’re including native Xavier Mathieu brings Châteauneuf-du-Pape in your trip. together Provençale ingredients www.chateaudemontcaud.com for his exquisite dishes, served on the terrace of the restaurant, Crillon le Brave overlooking the Luberon valley. This ‘scattered hotel’, which www.lephebus.com occupies historic buildings in the village of the same name, enjoys Les Bories, Gordes a breathtaking view of Mont This one-star Michelin restaurant Ventoux. Its refurbished rooms near Gordes sees chef Grégory were designed by top French Mirer, who previously worked for architect Charles Zana. the late, celebrated Joël Robuchon www.crillonlebrave.com in Paris, serve refined dishes using the best Provençale produce. La Coquillade, Gargas www.hotellesbories.com An eco-friendly and luxurious resort looking out over the surrounding vineyards belonging SHOPS & LEISURE to its own winery Aureto. Explore Les Délices du Luberon the area on high-quality bicycles Stock up on delicious produce to from the on-site cycling centre. take home with you at Les Délices www.coquillade.fr du Luberon, where you’ll find jars of tapenade, traditional Provençale herbs and delicious olive oils. Shops RESTAURANTS in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Avignon Château Pesquié looking towards Mont Ventoux La Figuière, Fontaine de Vaucluse and St-Rémy-de-Provence. Tucked away in a corner of the www.delices-du-luberon.fr village near the river Sorgue, this classic bistro restaurant offers an L’Ile aux Brocantes No boundaries ‘The terroir offers conditions for Côtes du Rhône and Gigondas appellations idyllic courtyard under the shade The town of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is I finish my journey with a foray back to the meet, I hear a cuckoo call, frogs croaking and of parasols. Its menu features the French capital of antiques and north, where a patchwork of appellations is vineyards to produce perfect drinks the warm breeze blowing through the trees. French and Provençale classics. bric-a-brac, where you’ll find chic cradled in the southern Rhône valley. To the Here they welcome the Mistral wind; it helps www.lafiguiere-provence.fr stores alongside its canals, as well west, below Orange, are the exclusive vineyards fend off disease in the vines. as brocante villages such as L’Ile of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and I drive past those for summer evenings – fruity whites We continue inside, where Danielle points La Table de Xavier Mathieu, aux Brocantes, where several of Côtes du Rhône cru villages Beaumes-de- out the level of dedication and adoration that In a small village between Gordes dealers assemble in each space. Venises, Vacqueyras, Gigondas and Séguret in and pale rosés that pair so well has gone into the winery; from Nicole’s exquisite and Roussillon, chef and Provence www.lileauxbrocantes.com quick succession. Where I’m destined, though, friezes that adorn the walls surrounding the is the crossroads at which four of the southern with the region’s typical dishes’ concrete vats, to humorous medieval-style Sun-E-Bike Rhône’s appellations meet. wine labels. Afterwards, I taste the acclaimed The Luberon region is hilly, but On the hill behind the village of , I wines that do not adhere to appellation with the help of an electric bike, drive narrow, pine-shaded lanes to find Chêne boundaries. ‘It was a brave move as first-time a pedal between vineyards can be Bleu (www.chenebleu.com), a wine estate that with an altitude of 550m. As I arrive, Xavier’s winemakers, but it’s paid off!’ says Danielle. a pleasure rather than a challenge. envelops you in its natural surroundings. After daughter Danielle is there to show me around When I leave, she thanks me for making the This bike rental service offers buying it in 1993, Xavier and Nicole Rolet the extraordinary setting, which is overlooked tricky journey to see them, but with chambres self-guided vineyard tours starting painstakingly restored the medieval priory at by the . As I admire d’hôtes, gourmet dinners and wine courses on from Bonnieux (as well as other Les Délices du Luberon Les Bories; Niels van Kampenhout/Alamy Stock Photo Photographs: Herve Fabre Photography; Fabre Herve Photographs: its heart, seeing the potential of the vineyard the saddle of land where the Ventoux, Séguret, offer, it’s a trip I’m willing to make again. D locations). www.sun-e-bike.com

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