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© Lonely Planet 4 TOMLINSON DAVID INTRODUCING PROVENCE & THE CÔTE D’AZUR NO PART OF SOUTHERN FRANCE HAS MORE ALLURE THAN THIS WEDGE OF COAST WITH ITS MOUNTAIN RETREATS AND GASTRONOMIC ART DE VIVRE. So prepare for heart-and-soul seduction. Travelling à la Provençal means sensual sauntering past scented lavender fi elds and chestnut forests; through fresh apple-green vine- yards and silvery olive groves; around markets, Matisse-designed chapels and medieval hilltop villages impossibly perched on rocky crags. Trav- elled with two wheels or four, on the back of a bicycle or with the roof rolled back in a vintage Citroën 2CV, no region better begs lazy days out, interrupted only by copious alfresco lunches. Yet Provence and the Côte d’Azur is not all Zen-paced rural chic. Wedged between rough- cut Marseille with its urban art scene, and mega- XXXXXXX lomaniacal Monte Carlo with its skyscraper sky- DER KNIJFF GLENN VAN I’ANSON RICHARD line, this hot spot on the Med also screams action, glamour and just a hint of the ridiculous. Where else do cowboys herd cattle while Roma blaze fl amenco beneath fl amingo-fi lled skies? Where else do people fl ock to watch fi lm stars strut the red carpet into a concrete bunker? Where else can you canyon white water in the morning, crack open sea urchins for lunch, see fabulous art in the afternoon, and bunk down in a tree house, old Celtic hamlet or winemaking château come dusk? TOP A view from Vaison-la-Romaine to Mont Ventoux BOTTOM LEFT A hilltop village in the Luberon BOTTOM RIGHT A fruit and vegetable market in Nice’s old town. THE LUBERON 00-prelims-pro6-copy.indd 4 26/11/2009 12:42:40 PM GLENN VAN DER KNIJFF GLENN VAN I’ANSON RICHARD NICE 00-prelims-pro6-copy.indd 5 26/11/2009 12:42:43 PM GORGES DU VERDON RICHARD I’ANSON RICHARD BETHUNE CARMICHAEL MONACO 00-prelims-pro6-copy.indd 6 26/11/2009 12:42:46 PM THIS IMAGE IS NOT AVAILABLE DUE TO COPYRIGHT RESTRICTIONS JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET MONACO RICHARD I’ANSON RICHARD BETHUNE CARMICHAEL TOP LEFT Gorges du Verdon, Haute-Provence TOP RIGHT A view of Monaco from the Grande Corniche BOTTOM LEFT La Condamine at dusk, Monaco BOTTOM CENTRE Pont St-Bénézet (Pont d’Avignon) spans the Rhône, with the Palais des Papes and the walled city behind, Avignon BOTTOM RIGHT Art on sale portside, St-Tropez RICHARD I’ANSON RICHARD AVIGNON ST-TROPEZ 00-prelims-pro6-copy.indd 7 26/11/2009 12:42:49 PM 8 LONELYPLANET.COM BETHUNE CARMICHAEL GETTING STARTED PROVENCE & THE CÔTE D´AZUR Average WHAT’S NEW? CLIMATE: NICE Max/Min Innovative tram art in Nice, °C Temp °F in Rainfall mm with 14 exciting works to 40 104 5 125 discover ( p203 ) 30 86 4 100 Europe’s last-remaining 20 68 3 75 ochre quarry ( p154 ) 10 50 2 50 An artisan ice creamery 0321 25 hidden in Pays d’Aigues -10 14 0 0 back country ( p165 ) JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND Learning how to cook with fl owers – for kids and adults PRICE GUIDE alike ( p259 ) BUDGET MIDRANGE TOP END Jean Cocteau ‘tattoos’ on the SLEEPING up to €80 €80-175 over €175 glittering millionaire cape of MEALS up to €20 €20-40 over €40 Cap Ferrat ( p214 ) RICHARD I’ANSON RICHARD I’ANSON RICHARD TOP A time-worn facade in Vieux Nice BOTTOM LEFT Sunbathers enjoy the beach, Nice BOTTOM RIGHT Promenade des Anglais, Nice FAR RIGHT Medieval Èze with views of Cap Ferrat 00-prelims-pro6-copy.indd 8 26/11/2009 12:42:52 PM LONELYPLANET.COM 9 ACCOMMODATION From age-old Provençal mas (farmhouses) with sun-bleached shutters, gold-stone walls and vine-shaded pergolas to wine-producing châteaux, accommodation in this essentially rural part of southern France is dreamy. Chambres d’hôtes (B&Bs) pro- vide a golden opportunity to experience a taste of local life from the inside (not to mention fabulous homemade breakfasts); many serve tables d’hôtes (evening meals) too. But for those who prefer traditional hotel accommodation, boutique hotels and quintessential village auberges (inns) abound. For more on accommodation see p376. MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY MARSEILLE-PROVENCE AIRPORT (MRS; %04 42 14 14 14; www.marseille.aeroport.fr) Pro- vence’s main airport, 28km northwest of Marseille, has international fl ights includ- ing easyJet and Ryanair to and from the UK. NICE-CÔTE D’AZUR AIRPORT (NCE; %08 20 42 33 33; www.nice-aeroport.fr) The airport for the French Riviera, 10 minutes from Nice centre, is an easyJet hub. TOULON-HYÈRES AIRPORT (TLN; %08 25 01 83 87; www.toulon-hyeres.aeroport.fr) This air- port, 3km south of Hyères and 23km from Toulon, has a few European fl ights. BETHUNE CARMICHAEL THINGS TO TAKE Sunglasses, suncream, hat and mosquito repellent for the outdoors A pocket knife, refi llable water bottle and corkscrew for stylish picnics Sturdy shoes to stroll cobble- stoned hilltop villages A French phrasebook An insatiable appetite, a pleasure-seeking palate and a thirst for good wine WEBLINKS PROVENCE & BEYOND (www.beyond.fr) Comprehensive tourist guide. PROVENCE-ALPES-CÔTE D’AZUR (www.decouverte-paca.fr) Indispensable regional tourist board website. PROVENCE-HIDEAWAYS (www.provence-hideaway.com) Travel guide covering inland western Provence. RIVIERA CÔTE D’AZUR (www.guideriviera.com) Riviera tourist board site. 00-prelims-pro6-copy.indd 9 26/11/2009 12:42:55 PM 10 LONELYPLANET.COM DAVID TOMLINSON DAVID FESTIVALS & EVENTS PROVENCE & THE CÔTE D´AZUR FEBRUARY PÈLERINAGE DES GITANS CARNAVAL DE NICE STES-MARIES DE LA MER Roma from Europe pour into this remote NICE seaside outpost to honour their patron Both the decorated fl oats and the crowds saint for three days starting 24 May (and are gigantic at this fl amboyant Mardi again in October). ( p95 ) Gras street parade, celebrated since 1293. Don’t miss the legendary fl ower battles. MONACO GRAND PRIX (www.nicecarnaval.com) MONACO FÊTE DU CITRON It’s fi tting that the most glamorous race of the Formula One season should tear MENTON around one of the world’s most glam Monumental sculptures and fl oats crafted countries. ( p227 ; www.acm.mc) from a zillion and one lemons make this two-week event the French Riviera’s most JUNE exotic fest. (www.feteducitron.com) FÊTE DE LA TRANSHUMANCE MAY ST-RÉMY DE PROVENCE CANNES FILM FESTIVAL Sheep fi ll the streets of this small Alpilles town as shepherds walk their fl ocks up CANNES to lush summer pastures; their return in The world’s premier fi lm event sees cine- September is equally festive. matic luminaries star on La Croisette. ( p245 ; www.festival-cannes.org) FÉRIA DE PENTECÔTE FÊTE DES GARDIANS NÎMES The city’s bull-fi ghting season opens at ARLES Pentecost with fi ve days of novilladas and The traditional Camargue cowboy and his corridas inside the town’s monumental bullish and equestrian skills are the focus Roman amphitheatre and sangria-fuelled of this vibrant festival on 1 May. ( p90 ) fl amenco outside. TOP Costumed celebration at the Fête du Citron, Menton BOTTOM RIGHT A colourful fl oat at the Carnaval de Nice street parade 00-prelims-pro6-copy.indd 10 26/11/2009 12:42:56 PM LONELYPLANET.COM 11 JULY/AUGUST FESTIVAL DE LACOSTE FESTIVAL D’AIX-EN- LACOSTE PROVENCE Spooky castle ruins are the backdrop for this two-week arts festival of dance, AIX-EN-PROVENCE music, theatre and opera. (www.festival Stunning music, theatre and song form delacoste.com) the program of this prestigious July festi- val born in 1948. (www.festival-aix.com) MUSIQUES DANS LES VIGNES FESTIVAL D’AVIGNON & VAUCLUSE FESTIVAL OFF This month-long musicfest features clas- sical music and jazz performed between AVIGNON vines tended by some of the region’s love- Theatre in every guise takes to the stage at liest wine-producing châteaux. (www this renowned theatre festival; fringe Off .musiquesdanslesvignes.com) parallels the offi cial fest. (www.festival -avignon.com) DECEMBER CHORALIES CHRISTMAS VAISON-LA-ROMAINE Villages celebrate with midnight Mass, There is no fi ner stage for Europe’s larg- Provençal chants and a ceremony in est choral festival than Vaison’s Roman which shepherds off er a newborn lamb. Théâtre Antique; the next is in 2010. In Séguret the Nativity scene has a living (www.choralies.fr) baby – an age-old tradition. ( p120 ) DAVID TOMLINSON DAVID 00-prelims-pro6-copy.indd 11 26/11/2009 12:42:57 PM 12 LONELYPLANET.COM BETHUNE CARMICHAEL CULTURE PROVENCE & THE CÔTE D´AZUR BOOKS ARTIST PORTFOLIO PROVENCE: A CULTURAL With its designer chapels, cutting-edge architec- HISTORY (Martin Garrett) ture and avant-garde art, the region is a living art Evocative portrait of culture museum. It has masterpieces to savour and an through the ages, inspired by artist portfolio bursting with 20th-century greats. Provence’s varied landscapes. Local lad Paul Cézanne and Dutchman Van Gogh were among the fi rst to paint Provence’s extraor- FRENCH RIVIERA: LIVING dinary intensity of light, not that anyone ap- WELL WAS THE BEST preciated their eff orts at the time. Pointillist Paul REVENGE (Xavier Girard) Signac famously sailed into St-Tropez in 1890 A brilliant look at the fervent and made the fi shing port home two years later. artistic creativity of 1920s and In Nice, meanwhile, Matisse revelled in a warmth ’30s Côte d’Azur. and depth of light absolutely unknown elsewhere ONE WAY (Didier van Cau- in Europe, paving the way for Renoir, Picasso weleart) A French orphan in et al. It was these artists, bohemian and impov- Marseille is rescued by Roma erished, who paid their way with art, hence the and given false ID papers mak- world-unique collections strung on the walls of a ing him Moroccan.
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  • Jennifer Rushworth

    Jennifer Rushworth

    Jennifer Rushworth Petrarch’s French Fortunes: negotiating the relationship between poet, place, and identity in the sixteenth and nineteenth centuries This article reconsiders Petrarch’s French afterlife by juxtaposing a time of long-recognised Petrarchism — the sixteenth century — with a less familiar and more modern Petrarchist age, the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. Of particular interest is how French writers from both periods understand and represent Petrarch’s associations with place. This variously proposed, geographically defined identity is in turn regional (Tuscan/Provençal) and national (Italian/French), located by river (Arno/Sorgue) and city (Florence/Avignon). I argue that sixteenth-century poets stress Petrarch’s foreignness, thereby keeping him at a safe distance, whereas later writers embrace Petrarch as French, drawing the poet closer to (their) home. The medieval Italian poet Francesco Petrarca (known in English as Petrarch, in French as Pétrarque) is the author of many works in Latin and in Italian, in poetry and in prose (for the most complete and accessible account, see Kirkham and Maggi). Since the sixteenth century, however, his fame has resided in one particular vernacular form: the sonnet. In his poetic collection Rerum vulgarium fragmenta, more commonly and simply known as the Canzoniere, 317 of the total 366 are sonnets. These poems reflect on the experience of love and later of grief, centred on the poet’s beloved Laura, and have been so often imitated by later poets as to have given rise to a poetic movement named after the poet: Petrarchism. In the words of Jonathan Culler, “Petrarch’s Canzoniere established a grammar for the European love lyric: a set of tropes, images, oppositions (fire and ice), and typical scenarios that permitted generations of poets throughout Europe to exercise their ingenuity in the construction of love sonnets” (69).