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Tropical Birding Trip Report () The Search for custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

A Tropical Birding custom tour LADADH (India): The Search for Snow Leopard 27th January – 7th February 2018

Tour Leaders: Sam Woods, Iain Campbell, and Pablo Cervantes Daza

(Report by Sam Woods/Tropical Birding Tours, all photos by Sam Woods unless indicated otherwise)

Snow Leopards were seen on three occasions, totaling eight individuals, a good showing that exceeded our expectations. And all of this was done without the hardship of camping in sub-zero temperatures. (Photo above, Pablo Cervantes Daza) www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] 1

Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

INTRODUCTION With the opening of a new lodge in Ladakh, for the express purposes of serving ‘Snow Leopard Tourists’, we threw together a custom trip with some regular Tropical Birding participants and guides, to test the waters of this new development, which removed the need to camp to search for this Himalayan beast. The tour was an unreserved success; we watched three different groups of Snow Leopards for hours on end (two separate groups of a mother and two old cubs, and another pair that were thought to be mature young now independent of their mother); immersed ourselves in the colorful culture of Tibetan at Monastery in , and also added the enigmatic Ibisbill in nearby too, as well as spending a long time with a Wallcreeper close to the newly minted ‘Snow Leopard Lodge’. Of course, in this mountainous section of India, the Himalayan landscapes were as much highpoints as anything avian or mammalian, and we stood in awe of the Ladakhi scenery on a daily basis.

Watching our first Snow Leopards near Leh, which involved a mother and two large cubs that spent much of the day resting in the sun, before shade fell upon them, and we then witnessed them walk up and over the ridge following hours of observation. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] 2

Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

In addition to this, many enjoyed a pre-tour day touring one of the ’s, (and indeed India’s), premier birding and photography sites, , where a trio of Indian , and a vagrant Demoiselle framed among a flock of hundreds of Bar-headed Geese were notable highlights. This day alone added a 94 further bird to the trip. Others spent this day touring some of the seemingly endless cultural/historical sites of Delhi, visiting such tourist honeypots as the ancient Red Fort, dating back to 1639, as well as other monoliths of Indian culture, like Qutb Minar (1192) and Humayun’s Tomb (only as old 1570).

A vagrant Demoiselle Crane, found just the evening before, attempts to hide among a throng of Bar-headed Geese near Sultanpur. This goose is the highest-flying bird species, having even been recorded migrating over the peak of Everest!

28th January: Sultanpur (and Old Delhi) Pre-tour Extensions With some restless people arriving with a day spare to recover from the long journey east; we made a last- minute plan to visit Sultanpur National Park, a 45-minute drive from our luxurious Delhi hotel. The objective here was to see and photograph any we could at one of Delhi’s birding/photography hotspots. Sam was also dead keen to encounter Indian there in the hope of photographing them in particular. We knew well that January can be an erratic time for this species though, as they commute between there and the Bharatpur area in this season, although such local movements are yet to be fully understood. Having hyped-up the bird photography potential of the day to Mike and Sue who took part in this day, Sam and Iain were a little deflated to arrive at a site shrouded in thick, near-impenetrable fog! However, the ‘birdiness’ of the place was still there for all to see, even in such challenging conditions to photograph them. Even during this period of limited visibility, Ashy and Plain Prinias flitted around the lake edge, an Indian Peafowl wafted past, raucous Red-wattled Lapwings (page 31) regularly announced their presence, and covered the lake, including Indian Spot-billed . A flock of thirty or so Greater Flamingos circled the wetland several times, as if unsure of its safety. We waited impatiently for photo opportunities to arise. Then, finally, the deadlock was broken when the mist swiftly lifted at around 11am, and our patience was rewarded when we witnessed the plentiful birds in full Technicolor for the first time. One of the first birds to put in a performance was a Eurasian Wryneck (next page) that came www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] 3

Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018 on to a dead snag at eye level, where it remained welcoming the first sunshine of the day, and an apparent second dawn. This was swiftly followed by an Indian Robin (page 7) that stood to attention with such precision and vigor, that it felt like something the Russian Army would have been proud of!

After taking lunch, (and after we’d been delighted to see a healthy number of Delians out learning their birds, with official park checklists in hand, and a readiness to admire their first looks at many Indian birds through our ‘scope), we remained in Sultanpur, though this time outside the park gates. We turned our attention to the flats behind the reserve.

They look rather uninspiring and lacking in color, but an changed all that when it launched off a fencepost, revealing large electric-blue wing patches. However, that was not why we were here. A false alarm went up, when some distant buffy-orange shaded birds turned out to be not what we were after, but a pair of Eurasian instead, and no less impressive than our main target bird. The blandly tinted landscape brought with it birds of a similar color, like and Isabelline . Then, suddenly, our veteran local bird guide (Sanjay), announced ‘courser!’ All eyes swept the plains, and there, ahead of us stood three stately Indian Coursers (next page), immaculate white superciliums shining brightlyin the www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] 4

Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018 newly arrived sun. Gradually, we edged our vehicle closer, and used it as a proficient bird blind, which allowed us not only wonderful looks, but standout photographs of this impeccable Indian shorebird. As far as Sam was concerned, the day was all but done, and objectives achieved, but Sanjay had plenty more to show us. Next up we went after something far less inspiring than the courser, but a rare and local species for which the area is a known hotspot. We scoured one embankment for it, but came away without the target species, but did enjoy a Bluethroat (next page) hopping around in the dirt beside us, completely in the open. Even though this was wearing its ‘winter dress’, the bird was still striking, boasting colors of royal-blue and burnt-red in its trademark throat. The next bund we tried, we hit the jackpot for our intended species, . There was far less reaction to this than the previous species, unsurprising as it appears like a wearing slightly odd clothing, but it was a rare and wanted bird all the same. This fantastic day closed with us staring at a flock of hundreds of Bar-headed Geese, with an imposter among them. Just the night before, Sanjay had noticed a taller bird among the goose flock, which when it raised its lengthy neck revealed itself to be none other than a Demoiselle Crane (photo page 3), a species not frequently found in these parts in recent years. A brilliant end to an action-packed, ‘bonus day’ for our tour, which was focused much farther to the north…

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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

While most toured the birding hotspot of Sultanpur for the day, others, with less time on their hands either side of the main tour focusing on Snow Leopards, could not come to Delhi without seeing some of its seemingly endless historical structures, like the Red Fort dating back to 1639 and the Mughal empire; Qutb Minar, a 73m/240f-high spire said to be inspired from Quranic, Afghani architecture and dating back further still, to 1192, and deservedly a World Heritage Site; and Humayun’s Tomb, another World Heritage Site and the resting place of Mughal Emperor Humayun, dated to 1570. This barely scratched the surface of the multitude of cultural and historical site that ‘Old’ Delhi has to offer but provided some very different cultural experiences to those found in and around Leh and Ulley on the main tour in Ladakh.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

29th January: Delhi to Leh We rose early to take a short flight from India’s capital north into the youngest mountain chain on Earth, the . After spectacular views of part of this range mid-flight, the plane touched down in Leh, within Ladakh, mid-morning. This and the following day were scheduled primarily for acclimatization, as Leh sits at a lofty 3300m/ft. Some went rug shopping for products from , while others went book shopping on local natural history of the region. In the afternoon, we visited several sites along the to search for birds. Our primary target, which went unseen on this occasion, was a high-altitude shorebird, the beautiful Ibisbill, a species that is classified within its own . However, we were happy enough seeing our first White-winged Redstarts, a handsome bird, which was to become very familiar in the following days.

Those with a window seat during the Delhi to Leh domestic flight, were treated to remarkable panoramas like these of the Himalayas; a harbinger of scenes to come (Pablo Cervantes Daza)

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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

30th January: Thiksey Monastery and National Park As our premier day of acclimatization, we had a relaxed (but full), day planned for some cultural activities in Leh, perhaps intervened by a brief spell of Ibisbill watching. The first stop was Thiksey Monastery, just outside the small town of Choglamsar. While the majority population of India is Hindu, Ladakh is Buddhist country. We left early in to watch the daily prayer ritual at the monastery, which is nestled within the Himalayas, and a 365-degree view of them was observed right from the roof of this colorful edifice.

A young monk sips butter tea during morning prayers at Thiksey Monastery

This cultural visit was utterly compelling viewing, and an undisputed highlight of the trip, even among the hardiest birders in our company. This was followed by some a brief birding stop in , due to a tip-off about Ibisbills in the area from recent days. The Ibisbills were absent, and we had little to show for our spell there, save for a Northern Goshawk seen by just some, and plentiful more White-winged Redstarts that seemed to burst from every scrubby patch lining the scenic river. Our next stop should have been an www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] 12

Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018 obligatory visit to the Snow Leopard Conservancy headquarters in Leh, however a single, short phone call changed that immediately.

While we searched, unsuccessfully, for Ibisbills, a mumbled message from our local guide had inferred a Snow Leopard sighting that quickly got dismissed as a case of Chinese whispers. However, after a little further time, it became clear the original interpretation of the message was indeed correct, Snow Leopard had been sighted near Leh! Original plans for the day were immediately shredded, as we sped to the waiting cars, and raced off in the direction of the nearest mountains, on the fringes of . Things turned ridiculous when Iain, in the back of the line of cars speeding in the direction of a rumored Snow Leopard, spotted an Ibisbill sitting nonchalantly beside Choglamsar Bridge, a site we had already checked twice already. However, with the premier quarry of the trip, (aptly known as the ‘Grey Ghost’), seemingly within our grasp, the only natural thing to do was ignore the Ibisbill completely and head straight for the exact spot where a naturalist was currently watching three Snow Leopards. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] 13

Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

It was pretty clear when we had reached the spot, as a line of cars were already present accompanied by ‘scopes, cameras, and a wave of excitable behavior running through their group and ours too. A local naturalist quickly made sure we all had the animals, as they rested on the distant rocks, a mother and two near adult sized cubs enjoying the morning sunshine. The cats, and us, remained there for the entire afternoon, and we were even brought a full cooked meal and tea to enjoy, while the leopards lounged on the opposite side of the valley. Come late afternoon, the day cooled rather suddenly and the leopards were on their feet and heading to the nearest ridge, their long full-bodied tails trailing behind them. Leh had promised little in terms of wildlife, except perhaps an Ibisbill, but gave us so much more; Snow Leopards before we had even reached Snow Leopard lodge and the core area for our search on the tour. The group were ecstatic at the end of a day that had provided a rich blend of Buddhist culture, dramatic Himalayan scenery, and one of the most beautiful and highly-desired cats. Ladakh had given up its premier wildlife attraction swiftly and decisively.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

Not only is the monastery at Thiksey colorful and totally fascinating, but it also sits within a dramatic Himalayan landscape

31st January: Choglamsar; Leh to Ulley With a midmorning departure planned into Ulley, deep in the heart of Snow Leopard, in a large , we had just one more itch to scratch in Leh, those bothersome and so far, completely uncooperative Ibisbills. For this we returned to site we had already scheduled to try and find them, but has failed when together as a group, but also where Iain had seen one as we blasted full pelt in the direction of our first Snow Leopards, a worthy time to forsake an Ibisbill for something way better. On arriving at the bridge, there was no evidence of Ibisbills in the area, but White-winged Redstarts (photo page 17) were plentiful, but hardly worthy of compensation as they had by this point become ubiquitous. We worked the bouldery borders of the rivers hoping to find a pale, boulder-like shape, with a decurved red bill attached to it, but www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] 15

Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018 finding little. Then, once we reached the final point we could walk no further, two boulders did not quite look right, and were indeed found to be a pair of sleeping Ibisbills (below). We approached them quietly, and steadily, having scouted the spots to view from days earlier, and soon we nearly on top of them, as they preened, and foraged on the opposite side of the Indus River from us; simply superb. This was the perfect way to end our time in Leh, and so we returned to the modern Grand Dragon Hotel for a hearty breakfast and hasty departure for Snow Leopard Lodge…

One of a pair of Ibisbills braves the cold, early morning waters of the Indus River near the city of Leh

Leaving Leh in the rearview mirror, it did not take long to add another , a herd of the endangered Ladakh , an ungulate that was said to number just 700 total individuals as recently as 2002. Further down the road Chukars made their first full on appearance (and were an ever-present from then forward), and John and Sam struck on a several good-sized flocks of Mongolian totaling around 100 birds. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] 16

Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

After settling into the lodge in Ulley, and meeting with our well-armed (in terms of optical equipment), team of spotters and trackers, we spent the afternoon scanning the surrounding hillsides for animals, but only found birdlife in the form our first ‘bone-breakers’, or Lammergeiers (), and Golden Eagles, two conspicuous aerial predators in this section of Ladakh.

1st – 5th February: SNOW LEOPARD SEARCH - Ulley and surrounds These days formed the core of the trip, when we were based at the tiny Buddhist village of Ulley, at the newly-constructed Snow Leopard Lodge, for the express purposes of tracking that animal down. Of course, pressures were eased somewhat among the group, as we had already seen the species well before time, due to an extremely fortunate and unforeseen turn of events, which displayed well the importance of connecting with the local network of guides, naturalists, trackers and spotters, when looking for this elusive animal. However, that did not mean anyone was keen to move on from the ‘Gray Ghost’ at all. Naturally, our focus remained the same, to work intimately with the network of local guides in Ulley, to see if we could find further leopards. While the head tracker, Norbo, and his well-honed team of trackers/spotters are based in Ulley, their presence and usefulness on such a tour was further enhanced by the fact they have family and professional connections to other local trackers in neighboring valleys. Thus, giving us a wider area to cover if needed. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] 17

Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

The general pattern of events was, following an optional early morning session of scanning the immediate hillsides, the schedule was to wait for the 9am phone in after breakfast at the lodge, by which time, all of the valleys check in with each other to report any significant animal sightings. After that rime, the usual ritual of these days was to react to the news accordingly.

Our first day on site was rather inauspicious, the early risers braving the considerable chill (around - 13C/8.5F), were rewarded with a pair of calmly climbing the precipitous slopes. Later searches deeper within the same valley produced nothing much aside from our first Brown Dipper, and the first of many sightings of the ever-popular Lammergeier (Bearded Vulture) photo below (Pablo Cervantes Daza), and , the core avian predators at these extreme altitudes. However, the day ended with promise, a group arrived at the lodge as we were taking a welcome, and well-deserved hot dinner, with news that they had flushed a Snow Leopard on the way to the lodge. With this, trackers were scheduled to dispatch the next morning for the immediate area – Saspotse (confusingly also spelt Saspocha), while we waited at the lodge anxiously for news.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

By the following morning the news had become ever more intriguing, as another vehicle, traveling through the very same spot five hours later had flushed the same animal, and once again it retreated from the same spot up the same slope, as if moving off a kill. Following no further news, we headed to that area, where we spent the day. On arrival, the trackers were constantly scanning the area where a carcass was thought to be, but with no sign of the leopards (for it was later revealed that three animals were involved in the night sighting the evening before), a team of locals was dispatched downhill to the exact spot, following a lack of new sightings. The dead animal, a young Ladakh Urial, was soon found, and was stripped to the bone, explaining a lack of leopards themselves.

Delicious, hot meals were taken in the field so that we could remain in view of Snow Leopard sites

Having deduced the leopards were gone, and then finding a herd of Ladakh (presumably the source of their earlier prey) closeby, the trackers scoured the slopes for pugmarks. They found some that initially suggested that the animals (presumed to be a mother and two large ‘cubs’) had crossed the road and were probably lying in wait on the same slope as the nervous group of grazing ungulates. Extensive scans found no leopards and so we moved to higher ground, and grander view of the slope where the foraging animals were present. The morning waned with no further evidence of leopards, but our moods were raised by a full hot meal and set up for lunch coming to us in the field. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] 19

Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

Following lunch surrounded by towering Himalayan slopes bathed in sunshine and not snow, (as would normally be expected in this normally frigid season), the team of trackers were starting to feel something was wrong, and so they set off in one of the cars to recheck the earlier seen pugmarks, and see if their original interpretations were correct. No sooner had they gone, than a radio crackled to life beside us. After chaotic scenes, we all bundled into the nearest cars and sped off in the direction of the radio signal. On arrival, our haste was humbled somewhat, when we found that one of the drivers had spotted three Snow Leopards lounging nonchalantly on the slopes above us, where they remained for the entire afternoon, occasionally changing their positions and causing a wave of excitement through the group, which had swelled well beyond us, as news had spread to groups staying in other nearby locations, who were also connected to the ‘Leopard Network’. Two very lengthy sightings, greatly enhanced by the quality of our Swarovski spotting ‘scope in three days of the trip was more than we could have hoped for, and the group were cheerful following this high success rate.

Chukars were abundant around Ulley www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] 20

Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

Birds on this part of the tour were few and far between, as wintertime in the Himalayas at the lofty elevation of Ulley and surrounds (around 4000m/13,125ft) is not the most welcoming environment for birds to eke out a living. However, the immediate surrounds of the lodge were home to Robin and Brown , which formed hyper-active feeding flocks in the area. Red-fronted Serin, and Chukars (page before) in particular were also a regular presence in the vicinity of the Snow Leopard Lodge.

We also walked from the lodge to a boulder field to check for , a rodent that was high on the hot list for some of the group. Both Large-eared and Royle’s are said to be in the area (although their exact distributions remain poorly known), and our second attempt yielded a single confiding Large-eared , identified after the quick formation of a ‘Pika Task Force’, which was needed to review the literature and aid in the identification of these confusing mammals. Time was also spent in and around the Spango Valley, where a small herd of Siberian Ibex (above) grazed in several days, and were thought to be a likely attractant for the local Snow Leopards. While birding the valley, we managed to flush up a Solitary Snipe twice, and add that to the limited birdlist available in these parts in this season. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] 21

Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

The trackers spent considerable time in this area, and this paid off, again, when a Snow Leopard caused a rapid reorganization of our plans, and we drive a short distance from the lodge to catch up with two animals resting on a ridgeline. These were two new animals, bringing our total to eight different individual leopards within the three sightings.

Once again, the animals remained in the area for some time, resting out the ‘hottest’ part of the days that begun at a temperature below zero Centigrade. While watching these animals in the morning, a bird took to the air closeby on broad wings, with a lazy flight reminiscent of a . It bounced in and landed just out of sight. Sam went to check out if his thoughts were valid, and quickly confirmed them when a Wallcreeper was found probing roadside rocks. Highlight that day, came in the afternoon, once one of the leopards became more active, and was seen marking/urinating on a nearby by boulder, and then gently calling to the other individual, thought to be a sibling, both of which were now old enough to be independent of their mother (four years or more).

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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

On one day, we took a day trip out to another village, Hemis-Shukpachan for the chance of more birds and animal. This village, like Ulley and others in the immediate area, is also included within the programs of the local Indian Snow Leopard Conservancy, who have promoted the cause of Snow Leopard tourism and Snow Leopard conservation in the region of Ladakh. Thus, it also offered further opportunities of Snow Leopard too, and plentiful homestays scattered around the village were testament to that. One corner of the village held a considerable number of both Robin (20+ birds, page 22), and Brown Accentor (40 or so birds), while a male Ladakh Urial impressed on the slopes above (next page).

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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

Brown Accentors were one of the most abundant birds on the Snow Leopard tour

Scouring the river valley in Hemis-Shukpachan (next page) led us to find a small party of White-browed Tit-Warblers, which included a male amongst them. The same village also yielded a Woolly Hare frozen in the open for some time, before it rocketed off at high speed. However, in spite of all of this, the site may best be remembered for a cultural diversion at the heart of this Buddhist settlement. Sitting conspicuously in the heart of the village, and in the middle of the valley in which the town is situated, was a giant Buddha, which we made a side trip to, and accordingly with Buddhist tradition, walked clockwise around this huge statue. John and Sam went out one night in search of animals around Ulley, which even in the Himalayan winter season are active at night; precious little was seen in an hour-long search, aside from the single sighting of a , which had been strangely elusive on this trip.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

A giant Buddha dominates the skyline in the village of Hemis-Shukpachan

6th February: Ulley to Leh All too soon, our time within the incredible Himalayan landscapes of Ladakh was drawing to a close, and we needed to check out of Snow Leopard Lodge and head back east to Leh for the night. With no new animal sightings coming in on our final morning, we opted to spend our time heading back to Leh, making multiple stops along the way. We checked the Ulley River more thoroughly than in recent days, and were rewarded when Sue spotted a White-throated Dipper (photo next page) feeding on its frozen banks. Watching the dipper bounce on the icicle laden fringe of the rushing waters made us feel even colder, and was hard to watch, when it regularly plunged into the freezing waters.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

We also intermittently stopped at boulder fields, hoping for the second and final possible pika of the trip, something that Sue and John were particularly keen on. One field looked fantastic but produced nothing, and then we stopped at another, noting the chill caused by the higher wind strength and total lack of sunshine for the first time during our time in Ladakh, making it the single coldest period of the tour. As we stood there, John quietly announced he had a pika. Knowing that Royle’s Pika (above) is generally found at lower elevations than the Large-eared that we had already seen much higher up, we were more than a little intrigued. All too soon, John got us onto a small ball of fur huddled on a boulder, which seemed to be braced against the cold. There sat a clearcut Royle’s Pika, providing a great finish to the tour, aside from some photogenic Red-billed Choughs (next page) between the pika and the city of Leh, and several large flocks of Mongolian Finches. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] 26

Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

We spent a final night in Leh, before returning to Delhi for a final night before departures out, or to continue on to our India Photo Tour, for another iconic cat, the Bengal Tiger.

It had been an unqualified success as a tour, we were on a quest for the Snow Leopard, and to have three very long sightings was more than enough, with the final sighting of a softly calling grown young one calling to its sibling will live long in the memory, as will the spectacular peaks that surrounded the efficiently run Snow Leopard Lodge, which supplied us with regular doses of Masala Chai Tea, and wonderful Indian, Chinese and Western food, even here in the remote parts of Snow Leopard Country. Along with the leopards, Ibisbill and Wallcreeper were undoubted highlights as were two species of pika for Sue and John in particular, who have a bit of a thing for them! And….we never needed to camp, a relief to many in the group, who would not have come had this been a necessity.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

The ‘Snow Leopard Team’; four pictured here are guides (i.e. high guide-to-client ratio on this custom tour!)

ANNOTATED CHECKLISTS:

BIRDS The of the bird list follows: Clements, James F., White, Anthony W., and Fitzpatrick, John W. The Clements Checklist of Birds of the World. Cornell, 2007. Includes updates until August 2017.

H denotes a species that was HEARD, but not seen. GO denotes a species that was seen by the GUIDE ONLY.

DUCKS, GEESE and WATERFOWL: Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus Hundreds were seen near Sultanpur on a pre-tour day; among them was a vagrant Demoiselle Crane. Graylag Goose Anser anser Several small groups were seen during our pre-tour day at Sultanpur National Park and surrounds. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] 28

Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

Northern Shoveler Spatula clypeata A number of these ducks were seen at Sultanpur and in surrounding areas on a pre-tour day. Gadwall Mareca strepera A handful of these ducks were seen at Sultanpur National Park. Eurasian Wigeon Mareca Penelope Half a dozen were seen inside Sultanpur National Park. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos A few were seen at Choglamsar, near Leh. Indian Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha Two were seen during our foggy start to our day at Sultanpur. Anas acuta Dozens were seen on our pre-tour day in the Sultanpur area. Green-winged Teal Anas crecca Plentiful at Sultanpur National Park; also seen on the Snow Leopard tour at Shey. Common Pochard Aythya ferina A handful of these birds were seen at Sultanpur. Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca Two birds were seen in the mist at Sultanpur National Park. Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula 7 were seen at Sultanpur National Park. Common Merganser Mergus merganser Seen several times near Leh on the main tour, while looking for Ibisbills. PHEASANTS, and ALLIES: Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus A single male strolled across the path in front of us at Sultanpur National Park. Chukar Alectoris chukar Very common in some areas of the mountains, and often seen around Snow Leopard Lodge in Ulley. Gray Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus H Several were heard at Sultanpur Flats. Himalayan Tetraogallus himalayensis One was flushed by a Snow Leopard near the village of Ulley, where they were also heard calling on several mornings. GREBES: PODICIPEDIDAE Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Dozens were seen at Sultanpur National Park. FLAMINGOS: PHOENICOPTERIDAE Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus A flock of some thirty or so birds circled the lake at Sultanpur in the early morning mist/fog/smog! STORKS: CICONIIDAE Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus 2 were seen at Najafgarh, near Sultapur. Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus This elegant stork was found in Sultanpur, where a pair was wading in the shallows. Mycteria leucocephala Around 40 birds were seen at Sultanpur, where some were nesting during our visit. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] 29

Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

CORMORANTS AND SHAGS: PHALACROCORACIDAE Little Cormorant Microcarbo niger Regularly seen during our pre-tour day in Sultanpur. Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis Regularly seen during our pre-tour day in Sultanpur. DARTERS: ANHINGIDAE Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster A few were seen at Sultanpur National Park. HERONS, EGRETS AND BITTERNS: ARDEIDAE Gray Heron Ardea cinerea Small numbers were seen through the pre-tour add-on in Sultanpur. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea A few were seen in Sultanpur. Great Egret Ardea alba A few featured on our add-on day to Sultanpur. Egretta garzetta A handful was seen in Sultanpur National Park. Bubulcus ibis An abundant bird in the fields around Sultanpur and Delhi. Indian Pond-Heron Ardeola grayii A conspicuous bird at Sultanpur. Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax A few roosting birds were noted in the Sultanpur area. IBISES AND SPOONBILLS: THRESKIORNITHIDAE Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus Just one put in an appearance in the foggy start at Sultanpur before the main tour. Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus Double figures were seen on our extra day birding near Delhi. Red-naped Ibis Pseudibis papillosa A few were seen grazing the fields around Najafgarh. Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia Four birds were present in the early morning gloom at Sultanpur National Park. HAWKS, EAGLES & KITES: ACCIPITRIDAE Bearded Vulture Gypaetus barbatus Encountered daily near Ulley. Also known as Lammergeier. Himalayan Griffon Gyps himalayensis Seen twice in the Spango Valley, below Ulley. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus One glided over us once the mist had cleared, at Sultanpur National Park. Eurasian Marsh-Harrier Circus aeruginosus A couple were seen in the Sultanpur area, pre the main tour. Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus One was seen enroute to Ulley from Leh.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

Northern Goshawk Accipiter gentilis Sam and one other person saw one with prey on the banks of a river near Shey (in the Leh area). Black Kite Milvus migrans Regularly featured around Sultanpur. RAILS, GALLINULES & COOTS: RALLIDAE Gray-headed Swamphen Porphyrio poliocephalus A handful of these tame birds were seen in Sultanpur. Eurasian Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Dozens were seen in Sultanpur Jheel. Eurasian Coot Fulica atra Healthy numbers were seen around Sultanpur. CRANES: GRUIRIDAE Demoiselle Crane Anthropoides virgo An unexpected bonus bird on our one day around Sultanpur, where a lone wanderer was found the evening before hiding badly among a flock of Bar-headed Geese at Najafgarh. Antigone Just a few were seen in the Sultanpur area. grus A few were seen near Dharampur near Sultanpur. THICK-KNEES: BURHINIDAE Indian Thick-knee Burhinus indicus One was seen near the Sind Sparrow site close to Sultanpur. STILTS & AVOCETS: RECURVIROSTRIDAE Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Scattered sightings occurred during our Sultanpur day. IBISBILL: IBIDORHYNHIDAE Ibisbill Ibidorhyncha struthersii A pair of these enigmatic Himalayan birds were seen resting along the banks of the Indus River in Choglamsar. PLOVERS & LAPWINGS: CHARADRIIDAE Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus One of India’s common birds, seen repeatedly on our Delhi day trip. White-tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus A few were seen inside Sultanpur National Park. SANDPIPERS & ALLIES: SCOLOPACIDAE Solitary Snipe Gallinago solitaria One took flight right beside us while surveying the Spango Valley, near Ulley. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos A few were seen in Sultanpur. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus Up to three were seen along the Indus River near Leh. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Vocal and conspicuous at Sultanpur. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia One was seen on the banks of the Indus River near Leh. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] 31

Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

Common Redshank Tringa tetanus Up to three were seen at Choglamsar, near Leh. PRATINCOLES AND COURSERS: Indian Courser coromandelicus Three of these striking shorebirds were watched foraging at Sultanpur Flats, and were a major target for there. PIGEONS & DOVES: COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon Columba livia Scattered sightings around urban areas both in the lowlands and mountains on the main tour. Hill Pigeon Columba rupestris A large flock of these pallid pigeons was seen in Hemis-Shukpachan. Eurasian Collared-Dove Streptopelia decaocto Abundant around Sultanpur. Red Collared-Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica A handful of these doves were seen on Sultanpur Flats. Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis Commonly encountered at Sultanpur. : CUCULIDAE Greater Centropus sinensis Seen in Sultanpur. OWLS: STRIGIDAE Spotted Owlet Athene brama A couple were inside Sultanpur National Park, during a Delhi day trip. HOOPOES: UPUPIDAE Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops This wonderful bird was seen around seven times through the day at Sultanpur. KINGFISHERS: ALDEDINIDAE White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis A common Indian species in the lowlands, where a dozen or was seen on our day around Sultanpur. ROLLERS: CORACIIDAE Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis Several were seen foraging from posts overlooking Sultanpur Flats. WOODPECKERS: PICIDAE Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla A very showy bird was seen at Sultanpur that sat in a snag in full sunlight for some time. Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopos mahrattensis Two were seen in the wooded areas surrounding the lake at Sultanpur. FALCONS AND CARACARAS: FALCONIDAE Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus One was seen gliding below Ulley. OLD WORLD PARROTS: PSITTACULIDAE Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria One was seen in Sultanpur National Park. Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri Common and conspicuous around Delhi and Sultanpur. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] 32

Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

SHRIKES: LANIIDAE Isabelline Shrike Lanius isabellinus One was found while watching the Demoiselle Crane near Sultanpur. Bay-backed Shrike Lanius vittatus One was seen at Sultanpur Flats. Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach A couple were noted on the extra day out of Delhi to Sultanpur. DRONGOS: DICRURIDAE Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus Numerous around Sultanpur. CROWS, JAYS & MAGPIES: CORVIDAE Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda Found in the wooded areas surrounding Sultanpur Lake. Eurasian Magpie Pica pica The most conspicuous bird seen up in the mountains on the main Snow Leopard tour. Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax Several large groups were seen up in Ladakh on the main tour for the Snow Leopard. Yellow-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus Scattered sighting were had in the mountains of Ladakh, where some of the flocks involved dozens of birds. House Crow Corvus splendens Commonly seen around Delhi and Sultanpur. Carrion Crow Corvus corone Recorded near Leh and also below Ulley. LARKS: ALAUDIDAE Horned Lark Eremophila alpestris Just recorded on one day of the main tour, around the village of Hemis-Shukpachan. Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla About 25 were seen at Sultanpur Flats. Crested Lark Galerida cristata A few were found on the flats at Sultanpur. SWALLOWS: HIRUNDINIDAE Gray-throated Martin Riparia chinensis Encountered regularly inside Sultanpur National Park. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica A smattering of sightings came during our birding Delhi day trip. Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii One was seen hawking over the lake in Sultanpur. TITS, CHICKADEES, AND TITMICE: PARIDAE Cinereous Tit Parus cinereus Seen regularly around Ulley and the surrounding valleys. LONG-TAILED TITS: AEGETHILIDAE White-browed Tit-Warbler Leptopoecile sophiae A party of three was seen in the village of Hemis-Shukpachan.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

WALLCREEPERS: TICHODROMIDAE Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria While watching our third group of Snow Leopards, one of these cracking birds came bouncing by in flight, and was then watched foraging among nearby rocks in the Spango Valley. Another couple were seen by Sam in the local area. WRENS: TROGLODYTIDAE Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes A few were seen along riverbanks near Ulley. DIPPERS: CINCLIDAE White-throated Dipper Cinclus cinclus One of these birds gave cracking views during a double-dipper day on the journey between Ulley and Leh. Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii Seen on several occasions in the Ulley area. BULBULS: PYCNONOTIDAE Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer Commonly encountered around Delhi. LEAF WARBLERS: PHYLLOSCOPIDAE Hume’s Warbler Phylloscopus humei Heard and seen in Sultanpur. CISTICOLAS & ALLIES: CISTICOLIDAE Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Heard at Sultanpur. Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius Seen around Sultanpur on the extra time taken to visit there. Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis Seen at very close quarters at Sultanpur National Park, during our day trip out of Delhi. Plain Prinia Prinia inornata Half a dozen birds were seen extremely close at Sultanpur. SYLVID WARBLERS: SYLVIIDAE Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca Several birds were seen in the woods surrounding Sultanpur lake. LAUGHINGTHRUSHES AND ALLIES: LEOTHRICHIDAE Large Gray Babbler Turdoides malcolmi A dozen birds were seen during our Delhi trip to the Sultanpur area. Jungle Babbler Turdoides striata Another species sighted in a jam-packed day at Sultanpur Jheel. OLD WORLD FLYCATCHERS: MUSCICAPIDAE Indian Robin Copsychus fulicatus An outstanding sighting at Sultanpur, of a bird standing to attention. Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis Several birds were seen in Sultanpur. Red-breasted/Taiga Flycatcher Ficedula albicilla/parva A couple were seen in the national park at Sultanpur. Bluethroat Luscinia svecica A marvelous male was seen near Dharampur, near Sultanpur. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] 34

Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

White-winged Redstart Phoenicurus erythrogastrus A common Himalayan bird, seen on every day of the Snow Leopard tour. Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros A couple were seen inside the national park at Sultanpur. Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maurus Half a dozen or so were seen in and around Sultanpur. Desert Oenanthe deserti One was found while on the hunt for coursers at Sultanpur Flats. Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina One of these wheatears was also seen at Sultanpur Flats. : STURNIDAE Eurasian Sturnus vulgaris One was seen at Sultanpur. Asian Pied Starling Gracupica contra A few were seen at Sultanpur. Common tristis Seen around Sultanpur. Acridotheres ginginianus A handful was seen near Sultanpur. ACCENTORS: PRUNELLIDAE Robin Accentor Prunella rubeculoides Regularly encountered around our Ulley lodge, and also in Hemis-Shukpachan. Brown Accentor Prunella Prunella fulvescens A very commonly encountered species on the Snow Leopard tour, around Ulley. WAGTAILS AND : Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava A few were seen around Sultanpur. Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola Several were seen at Sultanpur. White Wagtail Motacilla alba alboides Some of these subspecies were seen near Leh on the Snow Leopard tour. Paddyfield Anthus rufulus One was seen at Sultanpur Flats. Rosy Pipit Anthus roseatus One was seen near Sultanpur on our Delhi day trip before the Snow Leopard tour. FINCHES, EUPHONIAS, AND ALLIES: FRINGILLIDAE Mongolian mongolicus Flocks totaling more than 100 birds were seen on both the outward and inward journeys between Leh and Ulley. Twite Linaria flavirostris A few small parties were seen in and around Ulley. Fire-fronted Serin Serinus pusillus Pleasantly abundant in the mountains around Ulley, although only a few were seen perched.

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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

OLD WORLD SPARROWS: PASSERIDAE House Sparrow domesticus Some were seen along with Sind Sparrows around Dharampur, near Sultanpur. Sind Sparrow Passer pyrrhonotus A pair showed well at Dharampur, near Sultanpur. Black-winged Snowfinch adamsi GO A large flock of around 100 birds were seen in flight by Sam.

The sun sets behind the village of Ulley, deep in the heart of Snow Leopard Country in Ladakh

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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

MAMMALS Snow Leopard Felis uncia Ladakh has recently become the go to destination for this formerly mythical beast. The development of excellent, connected network of local trackers and guides, with the considerable aid of the Indian Snow Leopard Conservancy, has led to sightings soaring in recent years. And, should only continue to improve one would think, as more people come and more eyes, in this case usually means more leopards. In spite of all of this, Snow Leopards are still relatively rare and secretive, and so one feels that fortune is always a player in this quest. They are said to be easier to find and track after recent snowfalls, when their ungulate prey (mainly Ladakh Urial and Siberian Ibex in this part of Ladakh), are forced to forage lower on the mountains as higher vegetation becomes covered in snow. This pushes the prey and their predator closer to the valley bottoms, where the villages are located. The fact that we had no snow at all, raised an alarm for us, but the trackers exceeded themselves by still managing to get us three separate sightings of eight different animals in total. On each occasion, the animals were watched for many hours as they rested in the daytime ‘heat’ (-13 Celsius/Fahrenheit is hot for them!). Of course, the sighting of the trip! Royle’s Pika Ochotona roylei One was found by John, in an eleventh-hour scan on the journey back to Leh from Ulley, a joyful moment. Large-eared Pika Ochotona macrotis We all got a single pika foraging in the early morning sun just below Ulley. Woolly Hare Lepus oiostolus Two sightings; one by the Indus River at Choglamsar, and another near the village of Hemis-Sukpachan. Red Fox Vulpes vulpes John and Sam saw one hunting at night in Ulley. Boselaphus tragocamelus Also known as Blue Bull; one was seen in Sultanpur National Park. Siberian Ibex Capra sibirica Just seen on a few days, but a nice adult male was seen in the Spango Valley at length. Ladakh Urial Ovis vignei A couple of nice herds were seen, one surprisingly close to Leh on the way to Ulley.

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