SKY IS THE LIMIT MORE THAN A FEELING POP ICONS the rise OF aDVertisers get the memOrabiLia FemaLe aViatOrs tO the heart OF it marKet bOOm

WEATH ERbYS PRIVATE BANK weatherbys magazine - issue #01

issue #01 2016

WB01 -COVERS.indd Graff Advert.indd 1 1 03/11/2016 16:41 04/11/2016 09:44

NOBLENOBLE VII VII

THETHE SENSUALITY SENSUALITY OF OF COSMOS COSMOS FLOWER FLOWER THETHE INTENSITY INTENSITY OF OF ROCK ROCK ROSE ROSE

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OfficialOfficial government government fuel fuelconsumption consumption figures figures in mpgin (litres mpg (litres per 100km)per 100km) for thefor Astonthe Aston Martin Martin Vanquish: Vanquish: urban urban 14.6 (19.3);14.6 (19.3); TheyThey are for are comparability for comparability purposes purposes only onlyand mayand maynot reflect not reflect your yourreal realdriving driving experience, experience, which which may varymay varydepending depending on on extra-urbanextra-urban 31.0 31.0(9.1); (9.1); combined combined 22.1 22.1(12.8). (12.8). CO2 COemissions2 emissions 298 g/km.298 g/km. The mpg/fuelThe mpg/fuel economy economy figures figures quoted quoted are sourcedare sourced factorsfactors including including road roadconditions, conditions, weather, weather, vehicle vehicle load, load, and drivingand driving style. style. from fromofficial official regulated regulated test resultstest results obtained obtained through through laboratory laboratory testing. testing. contributors

jeremy taylor An adventure and motoring writer for the Financial Times, Daily Telegraph, Sunday Times and various other titles. He lives in the Cotswolds with a dog and a cat, travels frequently but doesn’t collect Air Miles. acknowledgements w e lc o m e

Weatherbys Magazine Cover image j o ro dge rs A young female aviator. I am delighted to welcome you to the first Published on behalf of Jo Rodgers was born in Weatherbys Private Bank Photo by Colin Anderson / Getty images. 22 Sackville Street, Mayfair San Francisco and lives in issue of Weatherbys Private Bank magazine. London W1S 3DN Contributors London with her husband. United Kingdom Tom Bailey, Emma Crichton-Miller, Matt Crofton, Rob Crossan, Theresa Harold, Hugh Langley, Rory She is a regular contributor Tel: 44 (0)207 2929 029 Created for our clients and friends, this Ross, Ryan Thompson. [email protected] to Vogue, where she writes www.weatherbysbank.com Credit also goes to about food, travel, and biannual publication brings a fresh approach

Getty Images, Shutterstock, The Picture Pantry. Weatherbys Private Bank is a trading name of modern living. For this p10–p14 from left to right: Courtesy of Weatherbys Bank Ltd. Weatherbys Bank Ltd is issue she has explored the to lifestyle and culture, combined with a rare authorised by the Prudential Regulation James Purdey & Sons Ltd, Courtesy of Aston Authority and regulated by the Financial Martin, Courtesy of Seven Dials PR, Courtesy resiliency of private clubs of The House of Creed, Courtesy of Gandhum, insight into the world of Weatherbys. Conduct Authority and the Prudential and their continuing appeal Regulation Authority. Courtesy of Clive Christian, Courtesy of Financial Services Register number: 204571. Jimmy Choo, Courtesy of The Supercar for new members. Weatherbys Bank Ltd is registered in England. Owners Circle, Courtesy of Winser London, We’ve brought together a group of writers, Registered number: 2943300. Registered Office: Courtesy of Tom Dixon. Sanders Road, Wellingborough, p21: John Capstack / Getty. philanthropists, investors and specialists to Northamptonshire, NN8 4BX. p22: Colin Anderson / Getty. p24: SCIEPRO / Getty. publisher p25: Paper Boat Creative / Getty. share their experiences. FMS global media p30: Tim Robberts / Getty. Suite 9, Beaufort Court p32–p33: Courtesy of CapitalRise. Admirals Way, London E14 9XL p34: Dave J Logan / Getty. john stepek So please, join us on a journey as we take to United Kingdom p39 top to bottom: Leon Neal / Getty, The executive editor of Tel: +44 (0)203 772 4853 Terry O’Neill / Getty. the skies with aviatrix Tracey Curtis-Taylor; fms.co.uk p40 top to bottom: Ebet Roberts / Getty, MoneyWeek magazine. Courtesy of Nate D. Sanders Auctions. He has been writing about ceo p44: Catherine Ledner / Getty. peek behind closed doors in London’s private Nigel Fulcher p51: Colin Anderson / Getty. financial markets and p65: David Trood / Getty. publisher investment for well over a members’ clubs; plan our next adrenaline- p72: Maull & Polyblank / Getty. Irene Mateides p73–p77: The Picture Pantry. decade. His work has also director p94 clockwise left to right: Photo by appeared in The Sunday fuelled adventure; and after all that, get the William Fulcher Tim Scott, Photo by David Cheskin, Times and The Spectator Photos courtesy of Boodles. best night’s sleep of our lives thanks to some GROUP EDITOR p95 clockwise left to right: Lucian Freud, Blond and you can find him Sophie Walker Girl, 1985. Courtesy of Sotheby’s, Photo by tweeting at @John_Stepek. very clever technology. EDITORIAL PROJECT MANAGER Mark Cranham, Photos courtesy of Ascot. Siobhan Keam © Weatherbys Bank Limited 2016. ASSISTANT EDITOR Whilst every care has been taken to This is your magazine – designed and written Theresa Harold ensure that the data in this publication is production director accurate, neither the publisher nor Weatherbys with you in mind. Therefore, if you have Bank Limited nor any of its subsidiary or Nick Fulcher affiliated companies can accept, and hereby artwork disclaim, any liability to any party to loss or any ideas or feedback, we look forward Anne Carrington damage caused by errors or omissions resulting from negligence, accident or any other cause. Graphic Design to receiving them. All rights reserved. James Randall, Daniela Arnoldo No part of this publication may be reproduced, Lauren Robertson, Katie Smith stored in any retrieval system, or transmitted in any form – electronic, mechanical, photocopying, enquiries recording or otherwise – without prior written Editorial permission of the publisher. Information Sophie Walker: [email protected] correct at time of going to press. advertising Shemin Juma: [email protected] Views expressed are not necessarily those Vivian Brasil: [email protected] of the publisher or Weatherbys Private Bank. Nicole Wogman: [email protected] Every effort has been made to trace the copyright holders of material used in this Contract Publishing publication. If any copyright holder has been William Fulcher: [email protected] Roger Weatherby overlooked, we should be pleased to make any necessary arrangements. Chief Executive

WB01 P06-07 ACKS_WELCOME.indd 6-7 03/11/2016 16:01 co n t e n ts

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adventure capitalists po p i co n s Meet the new adrenaline junkies swapping business suits for wetsuits Owning a piece of pop culture history has never been easier

science of sleep The Sleep Revolution is here and it will be digitised 16 72 10 C urated LU X U RY The need-to-know news for the discerning

42 in the club Finding your tribe in the modern world

08 48 more than a feeling 09 30 How technology is transforming marketing 54 future vision Young entrepreneurs take on philanthropy

80 in praise of follies sky is the limit If you build it, they will come Tracey Curtis-Taylor is a woman on a gravity-defying mission

the great brit I s h comfort food revival 88 invest in knowledge As the nights turn cold, we turn to the best comfort of all Private tutoring in a class of its own

94 weatherbys life Highlights for your diary

aiming higher 96 Q&A : MY M o n e y M at t e rs Crowdfunding on a grand scale We meet William Asprey of William & Son

WB01P08-09 CONTENTS.indd 8-9 03/11/2016 14:08 Curated luxury

JaM es Purdey & s on aston Martin fortnuM ’s x f rank t he h ouse of Creed The w eekend c o LLecT ion The ArT of Living ArT d epA r TMenT The Technique of Tr A diT ion

London – o c T 2016 MonAco YAchT Show – Mon Aco – Sep 2016 forT nuM & M ASon – London – Sep/ o c T 2016 London A nd pA riS 10 11 Combining contemporary style with proud heritage, Purdey’s new Branching out from its traditional luxury automotive focus, Aston Martin’s Frank Cohen is one of Britain’s most prominent art collectors. A well- Famously founded in 1760 by James Henry Creed, The House of luggage collection is the perfect compliment to their product range. ‘Art of Living’ initiative brings the same quality and level of craftsmanship known supporter of the YBAs, he continues to champion British art, Creed was the best kept secret of the aristocracy for many years. Designed for the gun collector as well as the man-about-town, to the brand’s commercial collaborations. The newest iteration is the building up an impressive collection while he’s at it. With his non-profit Still family-owned, the brand might be more widely known these days the top-quality finishing and details that Purdey is known for are AM37, a powerboat designed by Aston Martin and Quintessence gallery space Dairy Art Centre temporarily closed, Cohen is finding but it has lost none of its unrivalled dedication to producing top quality impeccably maintained. It’s said that James Purdey himself designed Yachts. Unveiled at the Monaco Yacht show in September of this year, ever more innovative ways to showcase his collection. Who better fragrances. Father and son duo Olivier and Erwin Creed continue to use travel products for his bespoke guns in the 1800s, and the New the powerboat will be commercially available from January 2017. for him to partner with than ‘the most luxurious department store in traditional infusion techniques which – despite being an expensive Luggage collection continues this tradition. Each item has a unique If the previews are anything to go by, the AM37 is certainly a crowd- the world’, Fortnum & Mason. Seminal works from Cohen’s collection process – allows them to maintain the quality and authenticity that serial number that the owner can use to register the luggage online – pleaser. As Marek Reichman, Chief Creative Officer of Aston Martin, are shown – Frank Auerbach, Tracey Emin, Jake and Dinos Chapman The House of Creed is known for. Producing over 200 original fragrances as with Purdey’s collectible guns, the luggage is intended to be for life. explains: “It was important to us when considering this project to make and Bridget Riley are just a few of the big-name artists included – since its foundation, The House of Creed has upheld its high standard sure that the boat design was as beautiful and timeless as our cars. alongside Fortnum’s luxury range of products, combining high-end art all these years by always staying true to its tried and tested traditional purdey.com/luggage The AM37 is a striking boat with fantastic proportion and elegance.” with high-end shopping. techniques.

astonmartinartofliving.com fortnumandmason.com/events/fortnums-x-frank creedfragrances.co.uk

WB01 P10-14 FRONT SECTION.indd 10-11 03/11/2016 14:49 Curated luxury

GandhuM Clive Christian JiMMy Choo t he su P erCar owners CirC le SuSTAinA b L e STYLe i n S piring Scen TS ThAT g iddY d e L ighT An e xcL u S ive cLub

London London London g LobAL 12 13 In today’s luxury menswear market, the newer brands on the scene Don’t let your friends tell you that buying wrecked real estate is Jimmy Choo’s ‘Cruise 2017 Capsule Collection’ has been designed to not If you have an impressive supercar collection that spends most of its are making waves by combining a nod to heritage with contemporary (necessarily) an act of financial suicide. For Clive Christian, renowned only give the buyer an impeccably crafted shoe, but also the opportunity time locked away in an opulent garage, then The Supercar Owners concerns. In the case of Gandhum, founded by Jas Gandhum in 2014, interior designer and perfumer, it’s been the spark of inspiration that to be a part of the design. The footwear in this collection comes with a Circle is the perfect solution. A luxury service that curates bespoke the label incorporates elements of the founders Punjab descent with has spurred and sustained a lifetime’s career. He bought Willaston range of enticing buttons, broaches and pom-poms that the wearer can supercar experiences for a select group of discerning car collectors, his contemporary affiliation with London. Impeccable British tailoring Hall, a dilapidated Queen Anne-era manor house in Cheshire, in 1978. use to customise their elegant pointy pumps or handbag. “I was thinking The Supercar Owners Circle has grown since its inception in 2014 to forms the basis of Gandhum’s designs, complemented by an focus Its restoration led to the launch of his eponymous bespoke furniture about that giddy delight you see in children when they choose from a become an exclusive community. It partners with automotive brands on sustainability in fashion. As Jas Gandhum explains: “I always found range – now found in the smartest homes from Milan to Mayfair – tray of sweets” explains Sandra Choi, Jimmy Choo Creative Director. And including Porsche and McLaren as well as luxury lifestyle brands myself struggling to find formal menswear with a rich British heritage and the accidental discovery of an 150 year-old bottle of perfume in indeed, the array of sparking accessories crafted from Swarovski crystals such as Caviar House & Prunier. Increasingly, automotive brands are and where sustainability lay at the heart of their company – if I can’t the attic sowed the seed for what is now, famously, the ‘world’s most inspire a sense of delight, encouraging you to transform your footwear, realising the benefit of telling a story with the car itself part of the find it, I’ll make it.” Gandhum uses innovative sustainable fabrics of the expensive perfume’, Clive Christian No. 1. To celebrate the origin of all making your own sense of style take centre place in every ensemble. bigger picture – the owner’s enviable lifestyle. highest quality and ensures it works with local London craftsmen to this, Christian has just released the Noble VII collection; two scents that Tapping into our desire to be different without comprising quality, Jimmy reduce its environmental footprint. commemorate the immaculately English formal gardens surrounding Choo’s ‘Capsule Collection’ appeals to the creative within all of us. supercarownerscircle.com the elegant red brick property. gandhum.com jimmychoo.com clivechristian.com

WB01 P10-14 FRONT SECTION.indd 12-13 03/11/2016 14:49 Curated luxury

w inser london to M d i xo n A Mode L c o LLecT ion w ork SpAce

London London – o c T 2016 14 Yasmin Le Bon, celebrated British supermodel and the face of Winser British design studio Tom Dixon has released its first range of office London since its launch in 2013, has designed a limited edition Autumn furniture, combining Victorian influences with a minimalist aesthetic. collection for the British fashion label. Winser London has made its ‘Inspired by the nation’s unique heritage’, Tom Dixon continually name as the go-to brand for wearable luxury fashion pieces for uncovers unique ways of creating distinctly British designs that respond women that are both practical and stylish, and Le Bon’s collection to contemporary needs. The pieces are designed to fit within the office adds to their already stellar selection. The collection includes two- and the home, a response to the increasingly blurred boundaries piece suites made from soft – and of course genuinely English – tweed. between the two. Maintaining strong British influences, items such as the The collaboration between Le Bon and Kim Winser (the founder solid Oak Slab School Desk based on a classic Victorian desk and the of Winser) is a no-brainer; two well-revered British fashion figures Boom desk light are inspired by the work of traditional draughtsman. partnering to create luxury clothes that professional women actually The new collection use top quality materials and understated lines to want to wear. create a new type of British office furniture.

winserlondon.com tomdixon.net

creedfragrances.co.uk

WB01 P10-14 FRONT SECTION.indd 14 03/11/2016 14:49 WB01 - Creed Advert.indd 1 28/10/2016 13:14

26962 Creed Aventus_Xmas_Weatherbys Ad_239x327.indd 1 26/10/2016 10:06 T

inspiring interview Tracey curTis-Taylor has seen The world, seT records and made headlines from The cockpiT of a bi-plane. here she reveals her

moTivaTions, challenges and he limi proudesT achievemenTs T

16 17 Jeremy taylorJeremy words by is sky

WB01 P16-22 TRACEY CURTIS TAYLOR.indd 16-17 03/11/2016 14:09 Tracey Curtis-Taylor decided her days at the Foreign Office were numbered after just nine months. Joining the civil service in 1981 as an adventurous 19-year-old, she was intent on travelling the world as a high-flying diplomat.

Instead, comments by a chauvinistic colleague provided the catalyst to a very different career – one that would ultimately fulfil her dream in dramatic fashion. She left soon after to become an accomplished pilot, later flying a vintage Boeing Stearman on a series of high profile challenges as the self-styled ‘bird in a bi-plane’.

“I was a Grade II clerical worker and felt completely trapped in my Whitehall office. So when that man told me women were rarely considered for overseas 18 posts and the best I could hope for was to marry a diplomat, I knew it was 19 time to leave.” Previous page, left: Tracey Curtis-Taylor bids farewell in her Boeing Stearman The incident inspired Tracey to become a poster girl for flying whose exploits bi-plane, designed in have made headlines around the world. Her adventures have included flights the 1930s. Photo courtesy of from England to Australia, Cape Town to Goodwood – plus a narrow escape John Goodman.

“...when that man told me women were rarely rarely were me women man told that “...when crash-landing in America earlier this year. Previous page, right: Tracey Curtis-Taylor poses with her Despite a late night the evening before, Tracey is firing on all cylinders bi-plane, The Spirit of Artemis. when we sit down for an early morning chat. Her two-bedroom flat in west Opposite page: London is crammed with memorabilia that could be borrowed from the set Tracey Curtis-Taylor of an Indiana Jones movie. with The Indian

was to marry to was a diplomat, I knew leave” it time to was Airforce (IAF) female pilots at Hindon Air Force, Ghaziabad, Dominating proceedings is an enormous propeller off a World War One India.

considered for overseas posts and the best I could hope for posts hope best for overseas and I could the for considered bi-plane. A pith helmet sits on a shelf, squeezed together with other African This page: Flying over artefacts, while a photograph of an aircraft flying over the pyramids in Egypt the stunning Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, dominates another room. Then there are books, lots and lots of books. » Abu Dhabi, UAE.

WB01 P16-22 TRACEY CURTIS TAYLOR.indd 18-19 03/11/2016 14:09 Opposite page: Tracey Curtis-Taylor flying over Bagan, Myanmar, en route from Great Britain to Australia.

Right: Portrait of British pilot Amy Johnson (1903 - 1941).

“Then I went on to work at air shows, in display teams, and much later at the Shuttleworth Collection of vintage aircraft, in Bedfordshire. I’m divorced but I never wanted to be trapped in a marriage with children and a mortgage.”

The photos in her sitting room confirm she has spent more time in the air than with her feet on the ground. Tracey’s first major adventure took off in 2013, when she decided to recreate the extraordinary journey of Lady Mary Heath from Cape Town to England.

The original pioneering female pilot, Lady Heath was nicknamed ‘Lady Icarus’. She founded the Women’s Amateur Athletics Association, before “The original pioneering female pilot, Lady Heath was nicknamed ‘Lady Icarus’ …she was the first Pride of place goes to a two-foot high statue of the Spirit of Ecstasy – like undertaking her first solo flight in an open cockpit woman to make a parachute jump, and to hold a commercial pilot’s license. ‘It doesn’t get more inspiring than that!’” the one found on the bonnet of every Rolls Royce. “It’s so beautiful. To me, plane in 1928. She set a world altitude record, was it represents the whole female ethos of beauty and intrepid adventure.” the first woman to make a parachute jump, and to hold a commercial pilot’s license. Tracey has arrived home just a few hours earlier from a classic car rally. She accompanied the driver in a 4.5-litre open-top Bentley on a three-day “It doesn’t get more inspiring than that!” laughs drive around the west of England. I can still hear the excitement in her voice Tracey. “I thought she was a romantic adventuress as she recalls the experience. and that totally captivated me. It was an incredible trip in my 1943 bi-plane but also set the mould “We had a couple of breakdowns but it was absolutely epic. The owner said for an even bigger expedition.” that his Bentley is the closest I would get to flying a vintage aircraft on the road – and he was right.” This time it was a perilous 14,600-mile flight halfway around the world in her Boeing Tracey, 54, was born in Stamford, Lincolnshire. Her father was a journalist Stearman, called the Spirit of Artemis. The three- and the family later moved to the Lake District, before emigrating to Canada 20 month journey, which ended in January this 21 and finally New Zealand. “I think my first love as a teenager was for horses. year, would retrace the route of legendary female I saved up all my spare money to buy a pony called Victor. aviator, Amy Johnson – who was herself inspired by Lady Heath. “He wasn’t a very polished horse but I loved him to bits. When he died at a young age, I was absolutely stunned. It had a massive impact on me. He had “Amy was the first woman to fly solo from Britain real presence, character and identity – something I would feel again with my to Australia in 1930. She did it without satellite bi-plane.” navigation or proper support and I’m sure encountered many of the dangers I did on the Tracey’s father encouraged his twin daughters to go with him to air shows way there.” » when the family lived in Canada. “I’m certain that’s where my interest in flying started. I think some of dad rubbed off on me – he was definitely an inspiration. When he died last year I was devastated.

“I took my first flying lesson when I was 16. I waitressed to pay for the course and then the instructor couldn’t get rid of me. I flew vintage aircraft because they were cheaper and, as it turned out, much harder to fly.

WB01 P16-22 TRACEY CURTIS TAYLOR.indd 20-21 03/11/2016 14:09 1910 bessica raiche Solo flight

1930 amy Johnson Solo flight from England to Australia

1938 Jean batten Received the prestigious “Thankfully, there isn’t isn’t there “Thankfully, FAI award

1932 amelia earhart Atlantic Ocean non-stop solo flight

1953 Jacqueline

inequality in flying anymore” h i sto r i c cochran female Broke the sound barrier av i ato r firsts 1963 These included flying through flocks of enormous birds over Pakistan, thick valentina te r es h kova fog that forced her to navigate blind above Romania – plus a terrifying dust Space flight storm in Saudi Arabia. The experiences were all the more sobering because Tracey had no parachute. 1976 emily howell warner “I think the most frustrating element of the trip was negotiating war zones, Commercial plus all the paperwork and red tape involved in crossing 23 countries. airline pilot I needed a GPS device and an iPad in the cockpit to navigate my way across 1999 the skies and stay out of danger.” eileen collins Public controversy – as well as danger – has dogged Tracey as some British Space Shuttle Command newspapers questioned whether her flight retracing Amy’s path was solo or not. However, Tracey has always stated that she was accompanied by a support team and the indisputable fact is that her flights aboard an old biplane have been hugely arduous – support crew or not. “I was never encouraged in an engineering career Having survived the mammoth trip, it was ironic that Tracey’s only near- or the sciences at school. I wanted to inspire ALT1-C death experience came in May, attempting a take-off on a more leisurely them to consider something different – even in CLASSIC return journey home in America. “I had a passenger on board and we Britain there are not enough women engineers suffered a partial loss of power at about 50ft. and scientists. Thankfully, there isn’t inequality in 22 flying anymore, although when I first had lessons, “There wasn’t enough time to be scared but we hit the Arizona desert with women were not allowed to fly jets in the RAF.” quite a thump. Both of us were fine but the aircraft was badly damaged. At first I felt just the same as when Victor died all those years ago – then I Tracey has since been in talks with the United got on the phone and called my insurance company. Nations to try and create a programme to THE BREMONT ALT1-C WILL LAST YOU A LIFETIME. promote science in girls’ schools. She is also POSSIBLY LONGER. “The accident hasn’t put me off at all. In fact, the plane was shipped back passionate about animals and is involved with to Europe for repairs and I was able to fly at Farnborough Air Show in July. the charity Tusk, protecting wildlife in Africa. The Bremont ALT1-C is a mechanical aviation chronometer that’s 99.998% accurate. It’s painstakingly It has a new engine and is performing better than ever. I’m planning to built by hand at our workshops in Henley-on-Thames, Oxfordshire, England. But if the inside of return to America in the New Year and complete my journey.” If there is a downside to her high-flying the ALT1-C is delicate, the outside is anything but. The case is made from steel that’s seven times lifestyle, it’s not being able to own a dog. harder than you’ll find in ordinary watches. (We bombard it with electrons to toughen it up.) The On her flight to Australia, Tracey spent time visiting schools in third “I’d love a whippet and the chance to go for walks crystal is sapphire and scratch-resistant. (We know, we’ve tried.) And the whole thing is water world countries, helping girls to consider a new career path in the in the park but I’m rarely at home at the moment. resistant to 100 metres. We hope you enjoy the ALT1-C. After all, you’ll be together a long time. sciences. “I received such an amazing welcome from young people – it My family still live in New Zealand and any free was often very moving. time is spent trying to write a book about my experiences. I have my head in the clouds, so I’m not doing very well with that!”

WB01 P16-22 TRACEY CURTIS TAYLOR.indd 22 03/11/2016 14:09

Bremont ALT1-C PW_Luxury Magazine Single 239x327.indd 1 27/10/2016 16:26 wellbeing the science of sleep

25

With recent scientific breakthroughs, Theresa words by pioneering technological advances h arold and the trending #sleeprevolution, might We finally have the ansWer to that age-old question: Why do We sleep?

WB01 P24-28 SCIENCE OF SLEEP.indd 24-25 04/11/2016 10:16 “our minds need a regular reboot in order for our brains to remember and learn”

Previous page, left: “It is a common experience that a problem difficult at night is resolved in the Synapses firing in the human brain. morning after the committee of sleep has worked on it,” said John Steinbeck.

Previous page, right: It seems an obvious lesson, and one that is ingrained into our language. Data capturing during a sleep cycle. Sleep on it, we urge the indecisive – and yet, most of us would be hard- pressed to know why entering a state of unconsciousness helps so much This page, left: The Sleep Revolution with our waking lives. by Arianna Huffington (WH Allen, £16.99). There are several schools of thought when it comes to the purpose of sleep. Opposite page: A documented sleep The repair and restoration theory posits that sleep is vital for revitalising cycle from the Dreem app by Rythm. both physiological and mental functions, and removing waste toxins from

Following page, the brain. Whereas the evolutionary theory – also known as the adaptive top to bottom: theory – suggests that sleep evolved as a means of conserving energy during Dreem, a sleep wearable that analyses the most potentially hazardous hours. Another is the synaptic homeostasis sleep in real time, improving its quality hypothesis, which states that sleep is necessary for the brain to wind down, wa k e light sleep with the data; the data syncs to your mobile consolidate memories and prepare for the next day. Indeed, the most recent phone; the wearable research unveiled at the University of Freiburg in August seems to support headset allows for accurate sleep analysis. this model. For the first time, scientists were able to show that sleep resets rem the build-up of connectivity that takes place during waking hours in the human brain. In essence, our minds need a regular reboot in order for our brains to remember and learn. lighT Arianna Huffington, the co-founder and former editor-in-chief of The Huffington Post, is currently spearheading The Sleep Revolution through her bestselling books, US college tour and social media campaign. In August, the media mogul left her eponymous news website to focus deep on her corporate wellness service, Thrive, which will launch officially on 30th November. Upon her departure, Huffington told staff that she had “become more and more passionate – okay, obsessed – with burnout and stress and how we can reduce their impact on our lives”.

, s le In her latest book, The Sleep Revolution: Transforming Your Life, One Night 45 pm 12 am 38 am c y 11 5 7 c at a Time, Huffington writes: “Death from overwork has its own word p e in Japanese (karoshi), in Chinese (guolaosi), and in Korean (gwarosa). le s No such word exists in English, but the casualties are all around us. […] le p Sleep deprivation has become an epidemic.” ti ul m ” of ce 26 When Huffington gave her now-viral TED Talk on sleep, she discussed how s n ist e sleep deprivation one-upmanship has flourished in our modern business ns qu co se world. “For men, sleep deprivation has become a virility symbol,” she noted. ep ed s sle at Not only is this damaging to personal health, but it’s a dangerous situation ght’ str ingle ni che for the world’s leading companies and institutions to be in. “A s ll-or w a we ith each cycle following So how to tackle this global sleep crisis? Perhaps it should come as little surprise, but there’s an app for that. More specifically, Rythm, a San Francisco-based neurotechnology company has debuted the world’s first active wearable to improve sleep quality. Designed to be worn while sleeping, Dreem is a headband that uses sound synchronised to your sleep cycles to improve the quality of your shut-eye.

To understand how this works, it’s important to realise that sleep is an active state. A single night’s sleep consists of multiple sleep cycles, with each cycle following a well-orchestrated sequence. Light sleep, then deep sleep, leading to REM (rapid eye movement), which is when most dreams occur. »

WB01 P24-28 SCIENCE OF SLEEP.indd 26-27 04/11/2016 10:16 “sleep deprivation one-upmanship has flourished in our modern business world... ‘For men, sleep deprivation has become a virility symbol’”

Using bone conduction technology that transmits sound without earplugs, the audio stimulation supplied by Dreem has been proven to help the brain stay in deep sleep. Characterised by slow oscillations, deep sleep is crucial for brain energy restoration, memory consolidation, hormone balance, and delaying degeneration. ‘The most enduring legacies If you’re wondering how noise – not usually associated with a good night’s sleep – can aid in prolonging deep sleep, it might help to picture a swing. In are born of the most colourful lives’ the context of brain activity patterns, the slow oscillations observed during deep sleep are like a swing on a windy day. The audio stimulation acts as the repeated pushes to help the swing oscillate. While random sounds during the night are a disturbance, this type of audio stimulation activates neurons mainly in the temporal lobes. This in turn modifies their excitability and increases the chances of a slow wave propagating through the brain.

Users can view their sleep brainwaves via the accompanying iOS app, and more importantly, track sleep history over time. In addition, Dreem also boasts “the world’s best alarm clock”. Even better than your mother’s Teasmade, Dreem allows users to choose their desired waking time, and 28 then wakes them at their optimal sleep stage closest to that time. That way, users bypass the grogginess that comes from being jarred awake during an unsuitable stage of the sleep cycle.

Speaking about the technology, Rythm CEO and co-founder Hugo Mercier explains: “The future belongs to those who can apply and learn from the human brain. It is one of the most intricate systems on the planet and yet we are only beginning to understand how it functions on a deeper level – but as we learn more, we’ll unlock new possibilities and products that can help us tackle some of the biggest problems we have today.”

And we all know one of the best ways of tackling a problem: Go to sleep.

A LIFE IN COLOUR

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WB01 P24-28 SCIENCE OF SLEEP.indd 28 04/11/2016 10:17 WB01 - Faberge Advert.indd 1 28/10/2016 13:11 higher aiming

3034 31 crowdfunding John Stepek John by words you will already have explored the small-scale projects populating the shelves of crowdcube and kickstarter online. but the latest crowdfunding platform caters to more ambitious – and potentially profitable – real estate development endeavours than mere coffee shops

WB01 P30-33 CROWDFUNDING.indd 30-31 03/11/2016 14:11 Fancy owning your own pied-à-terre in Knightsbridge, but can’t quite justify the outlay? Well now you can get a foot on the property ladder in central London for as little as £1,000 – and it’s all thanks to crowdfunding. In July J O H N B U TTE RS , C I O of this year, luxury property developer Finchatton launched CapitalRise, W E ATHE R BYS a property crowdfunding platform that offers ‘institutional grade’ P R I VAT E BA NK investment opportunities to everyday investors. Left: The master bedroom of Apartment 3, 18 Grosvenor Square, Crowdfunding is an excellent way For the uninitiated, here’s how it works. A property developer buys the a CapitalRise luxury equivalent of a ‘fixer-upper’ with its own funds and a mortgage investment property. for entrepreneurs to raise money for from the bank. It then lists the project on CapitalRise, where individual Below: their ideas, and as such is a great The reception and investors (the ‘crowd’ in ‘crowdfunding’) can view the details and invest dining area of thing for our society: enterprise Apartment 3, powers our economy. Of course via the platform. The developer then uses the money raised to fund the 18 Grosvenor Square, refurbishment work. Assuming everything goes smoothly (as with any London. that does not necessarily mean investment there are obvious risks), the investors get their money back once that investors will benefit from it. the property is sold, along with a fixed rate of interest. Here are a couple of things to think about before dipping your toe in the CapitalRise has already fully funded a project in Belgravia and is currently crowdfunding pool. raising funds for another project in central London. What makes this so interesting is the opportunity for private investors to participate in deals First, how much can you find out that would once only have been accessible to institutions (e.g. pension funds) about your investment? Professional

or ultra-high-net-worth individuals. Sure, your £1,000 won’t buy you access venture capitalists see thousands to your top-end flat, but it is a way to get exposure to potentially interesting of opportunities a year and might investments, without staking your life savings or taking out a mortgage. invest in two or three, once their financial

analysts have poked their way

lending’” into every nook and cranny of the Perhaps more importantly, it points the way to how rapidly the entire financial industry is shifting. If you’ve been paying any attention to the company. But they will still expect entire financial news over the past few years, you’ve almost certainly heard to lose their money in perhaps two the of ‘crowdfunding’ or ‘peer-to-peer lending’ and all the other buzzwords out of ten. If you cannot get as much information as they do, then expect

associated with the blossoming alternative finance sector. more failures. ‘peer-to-peer

rapidly

of In the early days, the high-profile success stories to come out of the

sector weren’t about investment, Instead they were in the area of ‘reward Second, can you expect to do how financial better than with other kinds of crowdfunding’, where individuals simply give money to projects that they heard to

want to support, in return for little more than a T-shirt in some cases. investment? Buy into certain the For example, the Oculus Rift – a virtual reality headset that was eventually high-yield bond funds and you lend to way

purchased by Facebook for an incredible $2bn – started life as a project on to a thousand risky businesses; buy a

the Kickstarter, the biggest reward crowdfunding site. The problem for the traditional high street banks is that they have a lot of global small-company fund and you

certainly baggage. There’s the ever-present threat of new scandals erupting – eight can own a little slice of more than Yet as CapitalRise demonstrates, you can do a lot more with crowdfunding years on from the financial crisis, we’re still seeing new fines being imposed four thousand. They may be less attention

points than simply act as a patron for someone else’s creative endeavours. on the banking sector for past misbehaviour. There’s the fact that their IT fun than crowdfunding, but it isn’t almost

it

any obvious that good old investment

The number of new alternative finance companies is growing at an systems generally don’t kept pace with their customers’ needs, partly as a exponential rate. There are equity crowdfunding platforms such as result of their vast legacy systems and expensive physical branch networks. funds will give you a poorer return

you’ve on your money. Crowdcube or Seedrs, which allow individuals to buy shares in small, And there’s the simple reality that in many of their areas of business, from paying

unlisted start-up companies. Needless to say, this is extremely high-risk. mortgage lending to investment banking to currency exchange, they are 32 There are peer-to-peer lenders, such as Funding Circle or RateSetter, which being beset by new competitors offering far better rates and services. 33 years,

importantly, been

allow you to lend money to small businesses or individual borrowers.

few Again, you shoulder the risk that the borrower might not pay you back, in The most important thing to take away from the rapid rise in alternative

more

exchange for a much higher interest rate than you would get from a risk-free finance is that not every challenger will be successful. Not every platform you’ve

past savings account. There are even some platforms that allow you to lend short- will achieve critical mass. Come the next recession, some – perhaps even

If term funds to growing businesses, secured against as-yet-unpaid invoices. many – will be found wanting. However, the old era of giant, indifferent the entities providing one-size-fits-all services to consumers who have no choice “Perhaps That’s all very well, you might think – but what if you’re not interested in but to accept them is over. A brave new world of better service for clients and over

shifting. funding small entrepreneurs, or lending money to strangers? Well, not more opportunities for investors is opening up before our eyes, and long is

all alternative finance companies emulate technology businesses. There are may it continue. also plenty of ‘challenger banks’ – small, specialist banks that are set up stry to deal with specific types of customer and service, rather than trying to be jack of all trades and master of none. In many ways, these hark John Stepek is the executive editor of MoneyWeek magazine. He has been indu news back to a more traditional, customer-focused era of banking, but with writing about financial markets and investment for over 10 years. 21st century infrastructure.

WB01 P30-33 CROWDFUNDING.indd 32-33 03/11/2016 14:11 p i

o c

p o

n collectibles 34 35

the market for ross rory words by relics of pop culture icons is booming, and the world’s leading museums and auction houses are in hot s pursuit of the hottest lots

WB01 P34-40 COLLECTIBLES.indd 34-35 03/11/2016 18:16 Last year someone paid $212,500 for the plaque that was affixed upon p i Marilyn Monroe’s gravestone when she died in 1962. That may seem a lot for a scrap of metal that Marilyn herself never touched. However, in an age of celebrity worship, a piece of celebrity memorabilia is a piece of the True Cross. To adherents – and Marilyn has more adherents than most other celebrities – price is almost irrelevant.

According to experts, the celebrity memorabilia market is about to pass a critical inflection point. “We have seen around one-third growth year-on-year in terms of hammer prices,” says Andrew Ewbank, partner at Ewbank’s Auctions in Surrey. “It is growing because more people are interested in popular culture than are interested in antiques.” Now, celebrity memorabilia is being regarded as an asset class worthy of the n most conservative portfolios. k Museums and galleries are important players in this market. Those major institutions that used to only exhibit a certain sort of artifact or antique are now exhibiting and collecting pop culture memorabilia, and lending the genre a unique credibility that helps put a secure floor under the market.

Of course, this is powered by visitor interest. The 2013 V&A retrospective of David Bowie’s memorabilia was the fastest selling show the V&A has ever put on. It featured 300 artefacts from Bowie’s life and career, including handwritten lyrics, original costumes, fashion, photography, film, music videos, set designs, instruments and album artwork. The only item Bowie did not allow out of the archive was a Bakelite Grafton saxophone given to f l him by his father when he was 13.

The V&A hopes that its forthcoming Pink Floyd show, Their Mortal Remains, which opens in May 2017, will draw similar crowds. This ‘immersive, multi-sensory and theatrical journey through Pink Floyd’s extraordinary world’ will feature 350 objects and artifacts, including instruments and original artworks. “I can’t tell you how much stuff won’t fit in,” said Nick Mason, the band’s drummer, at the launch in August. “We seem to have a bit of everything; my favourite drum kits, quite a lot of the old machinery that we used for recording; kit that’s now completely obsolete with all the digital technology.” Pink Floyd fans, to whom the band’s memorabilia is revered like religious reliquaries, can barely contain o y their excitement.

Meanwhile, over in the States, the final touches are being applied to the 36 $250 million Renzo Piano-designed Academy Museum of Motion Pictures, 37 which opens in 2017 on Wilshire Boulevard in Los Angeles. This museum is expected to future-proof the reputations of certain classes of Hollywood memorabilia. “Every museum needs something iconic to drive people

Previous page: through the door,” says Darren Julien, President and CEO of Julien’s Mick Jagger’s original Auctions in Beverly Hills, Los Angeles, a fount of thought leadership in the Grenadier Guards drummer jacket. celeb-memorabilia sphere. This page: A selection of iconic Pink Floyd album covers. And looking at the sales results issuing from their auction rooms on Courtesy of the V&A. a weekly basis, the alchemist’s dream of turning junk into gold appears Opposite: to be coming true. It seems any object that graced the sets of the early Pink Floyd photographed d by the legendary Storm Technicolor classics, like The Wizard of Oz (1939) or Gone with the Wind, is Thorgerson. Courtesy of the V&A. now deemed blue chip. For example, in 2014 the Academy bought the ruby slipper from The Wizard of Oz for $2 million. »

WB01 P34-40 COLLECTIBLES.indd 36-37 03/11/2016 18:16 To the canny collector who wants to get ahead in this already highly competitive marketplace, the question of investment potential is not how famous any given celebrity is currently, but how famous they might become. “Should I short Madonna’s coat hangers and Joan Collins’ wigs, d and go long Beyoncé’s earrings and Kate Moss’ leopard-skin coats?” one collector rhetoricised. “What will be tomorrow’s blue chips?”

The answer is probably that tomorrow’s blue chips will be the same as todays, but you can add in memorabilia from the Star Wars series and Harry Potter films. Lord of the Rings memorabilia is also expected to hold its own in the market, but Sir Peter Jackson, who directed the trilogy, has hoarded many of the props himself.

Collectors of Bob Dylan’s art are probably wondering how long they do

have to wait until the secondary market in his series of prints takes off. to a At present, the secondary market in Dylan’s art work is actually less than the ‘It’s

primary market. (But, as Dylan is in his Seventies, that surely cannot last for long). One tangential value in Dylan’s artwork is that it offers a means of celebrity’s buying his autograph, which is very rare. Even early on in his career, Dylan value? was a reluctant autographer, and his attitude has hardened over time. that That he autographs his limited edition artworks is a shrewd way to boost in v their value.

So, what is the golden rule for locating pop memorabilia’s value? “It’s to played

do with the identity of the celebrity and what part that item played in memorabilia’s that celebrity’s personal history,” says Darren Julien. “Every item brings i item

Julien”

pop a memory with it,” continues Julien. “The story behind that memory is

that what gives value.” The dress in which Marilyn sang Happy Birthday to

President JF Kennedy in 1962 is as triple-A-rated blue chip as it gets. Darren

part “That dress is the equivalent to a Monet,” says Julien.

locating

says for

The Marilyn Happy Birthday dress is also significant for being associated what with not one celebrity but two – Marilyn Monroe and JF Kennedy – thereby rule

d

and creating a multiplier effect. You get something similar when celebrities

history,’ buy the memorabilia of their peers: it doubles the celebrity factor.

Lady Gaga owns $3 million worth of Michael Jackson jackets. golden Mariah Carey collects Marilyn Monroe, including Marilyn’s white piano. celebrity

the

Lindsay Lohan also collects Monroe. It is easy to understand that

is b

the ‘Lady Gaga’s collection of Michael Jackson jackets’ has more value than

of simply ‘Michael Jackson’s jackets’.

what

While collecting celebrity memorabilia is not new, the dollar signs and the

“So, noughts are unprecedented. In an era of quantitatively eased funny money, identity new players, hedge funds, Wall Streeters and City types are entering the

the market searching for value and driving up prices. The upside on some o items is potentially hysterical. John Lennon’s ‘lost’ guitar, a Gibson J160E 38 39

with personal acoustic, surfaced in San Diego in 2015. Some guy had bought it 47 years earlier for $225. He sold via Julien’s Auctions for $2.4 million, a capital appreciation of 1,066,500 per cent. That broke the record for a guitar previously set at $960,000 – Bob Dylan’s electric guitar for which he was booed at the Newport Jazz Festival in 1965. w Opposite page, The globalisation of the market is another factor that has driven up prices. top to bottom: Flamboyant outfit Asians and Russians are new entrants to the market and are eager to catch worn by David Bowie, on display at the up. “Asians are fascinated by Western pop culture,” says Julien, who has David Bowie is put on exhibitions in Asia of memorabilia from Audrey Hepburn to the exhibition at the V&A, 2013; David Beatles. “People came out in their thousands,” he says. Bowie’s Tokyo Pop bodysuit, designed i by Kensai Yamamoto for the Aladdin Sane The Internet has enabled this boom. It allows dealers to peddle inventories tour, 1973; an iconic worldwide and it allows buyers anywhere on the planet to take part. portrait of David Bowie taken in 1974. “Technology makes the market accessible,” says Julien. “Formerly, when » e

WB01 P34-40 COLLECTIBLES.indd 38-39 03/11/2016 18:17 p PARIS, LONDON, NEW YORK, BERLIN

r

i

you wanted to buy celeb stuff at auction, you had to show up. Now, with a laptop or an iPhone, you can watch the action in real time anywhere, in any currency.” n As you’d expect of the by-product of an industry that glorifies superficiality, the market is awash with fakes. So authenticity is vital. And since the difference between the True Cross and True Trash is often homeopathic, provenance is critical. “You must be able to prove beyond a shadow of doubt that the piece in question is the real thing,” says Julien, whose ‘edge’ is his access to celebrities and studios in Los Angeles. “We don’t sell anything unless we have tracked its history. We contact the studio. We look at the fabric, the thread, and we go to great lengths. We are as Above: Prince performing much detectives as auctioneers. One of the best sources of authentication on stage during his Lovesexy tour at are the fans. They sometimes know more about the celebrities than the Wembley Arena in c celebrities do themselves.” London, 1988.

Below: Prince’s customized Of course, some celebrities have wobbles when parting with the Lenox wedding china, designed for his accoutrements of a life spent in the limelight. Having sold her costume 40 wedding with for the video for Turn Back Time, Cher had second thoughts and wanted Mayte Garcia. it back for a tour. She did indeed turn back time when the buyer agreed to return it.

The passing of a legend draws a line under their material life. To a degree that was never be the case during their lifetime, almost anything that they touched has become sprinkled with celebrity fairy dust and sanctified by their aura. Their memorabilia becomes more than just a set of relics, but windows to their soul and a link with a bygone era. “It captures something of their essence,” says Felix Pryor, an expert in autographs. “There is a e sense of peering beyond the veil.”

Rory Ross is a freelance writer who contributes to a number of titles including The Telegraph, Tatler and Spear’s. He lives in west London with his wife, three children and one Cairn Terrier.

BASLER-FASHION.COM

WB01 P34-40 COLLECTIBLES.indd 40 03/11/2016 18:17 WB01 - Basler Advert.indd 1 28/10/2016 13:00 Basler AD sunseeker mag_327x239.indd 1 28.10.16 11:53 tribal society in the club

Nowhere does private members’ clubs quite like London. There is a mecca for every social SET, a bolthole for every solo businessperson, and a new one seems to open every season. So what’s driving the trend for such specially tailored spaces?

42 43 jo rodgers jo by words

WB01 P42-47 PRIVATE MEMBERS CLUBS.indd 42-43 04/11/2016 09:50 The drawing rooms at 76 Dean Street, the latest London club from the Soho House Group, are dotted with headphones and laptops. In the “We’re more connected than ever, but it’s hard to conduct a tête-à-tête over Twitter. middle of the day, members type quietly from sunken armchairs in front We need a physical space to call ours in this digital age” of wood-burning fires, pausing to order coffees or take a quick meeting at the bar. Aesthetically, it’s not a prepossessing group – there are smudgy iPhones littering the side tables and more than a few peeling loafers – but then, polish is not the point at a clubhouse dedicated to the arts. The members drawn to Soho House don’t mind gentle scruffiness; they’re there for the zippy Wi-Fi and a highball in the screening room. Perhaps a lecture over lunch about social media optimisation. Never mind that they wouldn’t make it past the doorman, in his soft black bowler, at the Royal Automobile Club.

By now, it is wholly apparent that a new breed of private members’ clubs has arrived in London. Unlike Groucho Marx, who famously refused to belong to any club that would have him as a member, today’s clientele crave kinship. We’re more connected than ever, but it’s hard to conduct a tête-à-tête over Twitter. We need a physical space to call ours in this digital age – which is where private clubs come in.

The comfort of a good-natured community and a familiar place to read the newspaper has sustained the unmarked boltholes of London for years, since the first Victorian thought that he might prefer to have tea away from his wife. At its best, a club is a sociable extension of the home, with tidier grates and a better-stocked cellar. But even more than these practical joys, there is an enduring pleasure in joining a society of people with shared interests, whether it’s the outdoorsy types at The Hurlingham, the wine buffs at 67 Pall Mall, or the creatives at The Arts Club.

Twenty years ago, French sociologist Michel Maffesoli coined the term neotribalism in his book The Time of the Tribes: The Decline of Individualism in Mass Society. His book espoused the idea that human beings evolved to live in tribal society, as opposed to mass society, and will therefore naturally form ‘tribes’. Happily, history has borne a confederacy for nearly every occupation and enthusiasm. More often than not, the barriers to entry are not financial. Membership committees want to find the right tribe of people, and fees are a far smaller consideration than personality, good manners, and a relationship with existing club members.

Speaking to The New York Times last year, Bruce Richman, a Soho House member and founder of Inspired Philanthropy (which advises celebrities and companies on their charitable giving) explained the new philosophy of private clubs: “It’s not as much about money. You can’t really buy 44 your way into it. They want the right kind of community so the price 45 Previous page: isn’t prohibitive.” » Poised behind the desk in the lobby, The Arts Club’s deftly efficient and knowledgeable concierge team assists with all Members’ requests, both inside and outside the club. Photo by Martin Morrell.

Left: Portrait of french bulldog.

Above: A specialised selection of exquisite canapés and bowl food in The Drawing Room of The Arts Club.

Right: The sculptural first floor landing of The Arts Club, Dover Street.

WB01 P42-47 PRIVATE MEMBERS CLUBS.indd 44-45 04/11/2016 09:50 Still, it is an effort to belong – dues to pay, however modest, and application hoops to jump through – and clubs are continually adapting to attract modern members. Competition is sharp, not just from other private firesides but from excellent public businesses. 5 Hertford Street, the most elegant of the newer clubs, recently lured the chef from Mayfair favourite La Petite Maison to its kitchen, cutting off the supply of the best roasted chicken in London to all but its members. Its exquisite, warmly-hued upstairs dining room is now full of delighted tables, raising French 75s and inhaling poultry. The new location of Annabel’s, which will open two doors down from its original basement snug on Berkeley Square, has plans to introduce flexible spaces for work and leisure, including meeting rooms and even a health club. It will be open all day, with brunch menus and lunch on a terrace; a far cry from the charming subterranean disco with its postage- stamp dance floor. At the South Kensington Club, which opened last Above: year, they have installed a state-of-the-art Russian bathhouse including A luxurious interior of The Arts Club, both a banya (where you can be massaged with a choice of either oak or Dover Street.

birch leaves) and a hammam to cater to the wants of its membership. Below: Capriciously, flying in the face of city wobbles and international furore, The popular Loulou’s nightclub, new and revitalised clubs continue to pop up like field mushrooms in 5 Hertford Street.

September. They have a wide range of ambitions and targeted members, Opposite: The interior of but the rude health of the industry is in evidence. 67 Pall Mall, the club of choice for London’s wine connoisseurs. Possibly this isn’t so surprising. As luxury services have become closely tied to personalisation, businesses that know their clientele have an edge. This is never truer than in the, often faceless, world of banking. Once the traditional expectations of wealth management have been met, the last frontier is how well you know your clients and anticipate their needs. It is premises – with the exception of Her Majesty now the usual practice for fine restaurants and hotels to research visitors the Queen – proving that the world of private before they arrive, so that they are ready to suggest a particular spirit after membership continues to cater to all tastes and dinner, or send up the right newspaper with breakfast. For clubs, the bar preferences. cart oddities of their patrons are old hat. It is their core business to know that Miss so-and-so prefers to have her martinis at four o’clock on the Another notable gentlemen-only establishment second floor landing, with two bowls of spicy peanuts. Being a member is The Turf Club, which was founded in 1861 as – whether of a club or a private bank – ensures a customised experience the Arlington Club. “At the turn of the [20th] every time and that is what London’s sophisticates have come to expect. century, when many clubs were forced to admit a wider range of members, the Turf remained Of course, not everyone has made concessions to modernity. Established in notably exclusive,” writes Anthony Lejeune in 1693, White’s is the oldest and most distinguished of London’s gentlemen’s his book The Gentlemen’s Clubs of London. “It has clubs. According to The Telegraph, “To become a member of White’s, your always been particularly well off for Dukes,” he proposer must write your name in a leather-bound Book. Thirty-five other adds. So not even toffs, who might feel that members must sign to secure your place; those who oppose may scrawl today’s onward march of progress is losing them ‘never’.” It might seem anachronistic, but women are still barred from the ground, need feel left out in the cold. 46 47 Private clubs will continue to adapt and to develop thoughtful amenities to draw new members through the door, and they should – it’s a crowded marketplace, and custom should be earned. But it is these timeless advantages, the natural appeal of intimacy and ease, and a company of friends with shared interests, that have ushered a 19th century apparatus into extraordinary contemporary popularity.

WB01 P42-47 PRIVATE MEMBERS CLUBS.indd 46-47 04/11/2016 09:51 feeling emotional marketing more than a a more than

48 49 tom bailey tom by words

technology is fast becoming the most potent weapon in A marketeer’s arsenal as brands become ever-better at tapping into customers’ emotions. increasingly, OUr subconscious mind is their stock in trade. welcome to the emotional economy

WB01 P48-53 EMOTIONAL ECONOMY.indd 48-49 04/11/2016 09:46 Our brains are capable of processing 11 million bits of sensory information every second. But of those 11 million bits, just 100 are processed by your conscious mind. Which explains – rather neatly – why 90 per cent of purchasing decisions are made subconsciously.

It’s also the reason that modern marketing culture is predicated on the deployment of emotional advertising campaigns, designed to cut through the digital noise and make deep, subconscious connections. Professor Gemma Calvert, a British neuroscientist who specialises in the application of brain science to business, made a fascinating discovery when she placed consumers in an MRI scanner. When the participants were shown images of mega-brands such as Coca-Cola and McDonald’s, they used the same part of their brain to recognise the logos as they used to recognise family and friends.

While a company connecting to consumers via their heartstrings is nothing new, the emergent emphasis on emotions is being driven by changes across multiple sectors. The current fetish for the optimised self – think yoga retreats and meditation pods in the office – means that we are all more aware of wellness and pop psychology than ever before. According to Accenture, the consumer health market will be worth £512 billion by 2017, boosted by wearables and wellbeing apps on smartphones.

On the topic of wearables, this age of humanised tech has made it normal to conduct our most intimate moments in the digital arena. Speaking to WIRED last year, Andrew Moore, the Dean of Computer Science at Carnegie Mellon, predicted that 2016 would be the year that machines learn to grasp human emotions. “We have very real data points showing “DeepMind’s next groundbreaking project is WaveNet, a sophisticated speech computers doing a better job than humans in accessing emotional states,” said Moore. “There are huge implications in terms of making dialogue with generator with an ambitious end goal: to allow people to converse with machines” computers much more meaningful.”

Unsurprisingly, Google, Facebook and Microsoft are spearheading this ‘deep learning’ movement. Using ‘deep neural networks’ – vast webs of hardware and software that mimic the network of neurons in the human brain – machines can ‘learn’ by analysing huge quantities of data. As you If proof were needed that people are ruled by emotions, look no further Meanwhile, Audi has recently pioneered the use of VR in its have most probably already heard, earlier this year a historic moment came than Apple’s multi-billion-dollar war chest. In fact, for Apple fans, dealerships. Visitors to its Audi London City showroom can when DeepMind, Google’s artificial intelligence (AI) lab, created a computer neurological research has shown the brand triggers a reaction in the brain enjoy a shoppable VR experience in a 16ft x 16ft virtual arena. system that beat one of the top human players at Go. The ancient Chinese similar to that of religious devotees. “Consumers would die for Apple,” Potential customers are invited to spec-out their dream car game is both more complex than chess and requires a certain degree believes Nick Cooper of Millward Brown, one of the most influential on an iPad before walking around it, popping the bonnet and of intuition. DeepMind’s next groundbreaking project is WaveNet, market research companies in the world. even sitting in the driver’s seat. a sophisticated speech generator with an ambitious end goal: to allow 50 51 people to converse with machines. The marketing applications of a Previous page And yet, splashy billboards no longer cut it with the millennial crowd, But where ‘mood retail’ really comes into its own is when and above: machine that can actually hold a conversation with consumers? Endless. A still from Branded who’ve already made the leap from ‘real’ life to digital life. Hence why, from companies are able to tap into real-time emotional feedback Dreams – The Future a brand perspective, the rise of virtual reality (VR) headsets offers a golden from clients. Boston-based AI company Affectiva is a leader in Of Advertising by Until then of course, the way to ‘speak’ to an audience is through ads. Studio Smack. opportunity to make impactful sensory connections. Our brains are built facial recognition technology. They have developed software And nobody does emotional marketing better than Apple. You’ve almost Right: to remember events linked to locations, so by placing consumers into a that responds to the subtle cues from our face, whether A promotional image certainly glanced at those huge, splashy ‘Shot on iPhone’ billboards. from Affectiva, a hyper-realistic, 360-degree universe, brands can generate a much longer that is a frown or a smile. There are other companies in the pioneer of emotional The poignant images – beach sunsets, scruffy dogs wagging their tail – memory trace. field, such as Realeyes, Sesion and Beyond Verbal which all recognition software. work tirelessly to associate a pleasurable sensory experience with a feeling. offer comparable services. Rather tellingly, Apple acquired Opposite: Digital screens The luxury segment has already embraced VR. Last summer, Dior provided Emotient (a startup that sells software to advertisers to are just one of the “That’s the genius of emotional marketing,” says Graeme Newell, a US backstage access to its runway show with a 3D-printed headset designed in- many technological assess viewer’s reactions) in January 2016. progressions that could marketing consultant who is an expert in the field. “It slips in under our house. ‘Dior Eyes’ combined a high-definition picture with holophonic 3D be utilised by brands radar. Because these are emotions we want to feel, the ads seem comforting to create an immersive audio that allowed guests to experience the craftsmanship behind the couture. All this emotional data collection is nothing new. Websites consumer experience. and familiar. It’s drip marketing that slowly waters our deepest hopes of already know how you feel, and brands can access that being the people we dream of becoming.” information – albeit for a price. If all this seems a little one-sided and you would like to harness some of that »

WB01 P48-53 EMOTIONAL ECONOMY.indd 50-51 04/11/2016 09:46 technology for yourself, the Blissify app offers a novel idea: the ability to block webpages that decreases one’s good mood. By capturing the user’s reactions through their webcam, Blissify then cross-references this with an algorithm that gauges the mood. Based on this feedback, Blissify will block the webpage temporarily if it is upsetting the consumer.

Scent – a subtler route to the subconscious – is arguably the next growth

area in the emotional economy. As detailed in Axel and Buck’s Nobel Prize- last and the safe ad-free so“Our place it seems. are dreams winning research, scent is the most ‘emotional’ sense, with the average human capable of storing 10,000 distinct odours.

The science is already being exploited by the likes of Aroma360, who designs signature ‘branded scents’ for companies including Lexus and Ritz-Carlton hotels (a scented space instantly boosts perceived quality). But brands are also experimenting with the embryonic science of neurogastronomy – the art of using one scent to trick another. The principal is simple: smell But possibility happens what advertisers the dreams?” when our enter have to bacon and a bowl of kale suddenly tastes more appetising. Diageo recently explored a similar idea, having discovered that red lighting makes malt whisky taste sweeter.

Fast forward a decade or two and emotional marketing is predicted to reach its zenith with the first ‘branded dream’. What would that look like, you ask? Well, Dutch production company Studio Smack gave their answer with a short film earlier this year. They were inspired by the research of Dr Ursula Voss at JW Goethe-University, who found that applying an electric current to the brain can induce lucid dreams, and Dr Patrick Bourke at Lincoln School of Psychology, who first showed the link between lucid dreaming and waking insight. The company explains:

“Our dreams are the last safe and ad-free place so it seems. But what 52 happens when advertisers have the possibility to enter our dreams? 53 Above: Based on recent developments in brain science and technology this might Companies like DeepMind are pushing be possible in the near future. This animated short is an impression of a the boundaries of AI, seeing it as dream manipulated by a brand we all know...” a multiplier for human ingenuity. And we do. From the first shot of a polar bear, to the iconic shade of red, Right: A still from Branded to the curved white stripe and close-ups of effervescent bubbles Dreams – The Future Of Advertising by throughout. There’s no need to spell it out in its distinctive script, we can Studio Smack. already Taste the Feeling.

WB01 P48-53 EMOTIONAL ECONOMY.indd 52-53 04/11/2016 09:46 eco/philanthropy How can you ensure that the funds you donate to charity go as far as possible? These three next-generation philanthropists are offering fresh perspectives on the world of givinG

Wealthy people have long played the positive value in a simple equation for charitable giving that has supposedly served both sides of the economic divide for centuries. By setting up, funding and rubber stamping foundations and trusts – or giving tens of millions to well-established charities – philanthropists burnish their names for posterity and eliminate the queasy moral tightrope walk of balancing personal wealth with social conscience. It’s a familiar, trustworthy and reassuringly straightforward way to ‘change the world for the better’.

Yet this age-old model is being substantially disrupted in a new age of openness, transparency and debate ushered in by the first generation of philanthropists raised in the Internet Age. Diligent enquiry into the endemic vision bureaucracy and inefficiency of many large-scale charitable institutions is turning how we give into a hot topic, and some young thinkers believe that 54 they have found better, more innovative ways to fight global poverty by 55 re-framing the role of commerce in philanthropy entirely. jeremy Taylor jeremy by words

These three notable young philanthropists have formed a compelling future vision for charitable giving by using scientific data to rate charitable causes more accurately, setting up an unlikely online business link for third world workers and by helping to re-educate the budding entrepreneurs of the future. Our writer met each of them to talk about their ideas. »

Above, left to right: Jack Delosa, Leila Janah,

William MacAskill. future

Left: Leila Janah visiting school pupils on one of her trips to the African continent.

WB01 P54-61 YOUNG PHILANTHROPISTS.indd 54-55 03/11/2016 14:12 jack delosa

Er n t r e p e n e u r , AU T H O R a n d P h i l a n t h r o p i st

He was the high school dropout who went on to become a self-made millionaire. Jack Delosa, 29, now rubs shoulders with the elite of the business world. He regularly advises Virgin tycoon Richard Branson and is one of Australia’s hottest young entrepreneurs.

“I spent a week with Richard on Necker, his private island in the Caribbean,” said Delosa. “The most memorable piece of advice he gave was to set up a new business and then find a better person to run it.

“This relates to charities because they’re not always run efficiently. Anybody considering giving money should do their homework first. Make sure what you donate is used in the best possible way by the right charity.”

Delosa was a high profile investor before setting up The Entourage – an organisation that invests in start-up businesses. Membership has doubled in size every year.

“Now we have more than 120,000 members. Our aim is to educate new young entrepreneurs and those in existing corporations to change the way they think about their business future.

“Around five per cent of our members hope to run not-for-profit organisations one day. Teaching them to operate as efficient and effective entrepreneurs is crucial if they are to succeed.”

56 Delosa, who helped set up the Branson Centre of Entrepreneurship, says 57 being a philanthropist is no longer about giving money in a conventional way. He believes the new breed of young entrepreneurs will one day change Above: Jack Delosa, Australian the way we give for good. entrepreneur, author and philanthropist.

“It’s fundamental that any philanthropist starts with the dream of making the world a better place. It also frustrates me that many charities, both

large and small, do not have a more entrepreneurial approach. elosa says being is no longer a philanthropist about giving money in a “D “We have to educate charities better to change that. It might be strategic planning, recruiting an innovative team, or simply talking to other charities about best practise. That is the way forward.” »

the-entourage.edu.au

conventional way. He believes the new breed of young entrepreneurs will day one change of young entrepreneurs new breed the believes He way. conventional good” give for we way the

WB01 P54-61 YOUNG PHILANTHROPISTS.indd 56-57 03/11/2016 14:12 L e ila J a n a h

F O und E R O F SA M A A N D L X M I

A school visit to Ghana teaching blind students shaped Janah’s life for good. “There was poverty but what struck me more was the wasted talent. I grew up in poverty in the United States and believed in the American dream. I realised it wasn’t going to happen for those kids in Africa.”

The daughter of Indian immigrants, Janah, 34, says that poverty in her childhood was constant and made her appreciate the value of work. “But it was only an accident of birth that I was born in America and could access the employment opportunities available here.”

She established Samasource in 2008, providing internet-based jobs to women in poverty-stricken countries. “The world shouldn’t be so governed by chance. Our team help organise data for large web companies like LinkedIn and Google – it’s work that can be done anywhere.

“Most have wages of around $2 a day before they join us. That quickly rises to $8 and is sustained even when they leave to take up other jobs. My mission is to end global poverty by giving work to people in need – helping themselves to a better life.”

Janah says the most important tip for giving more effectively is to be focussed on the long-term outcome. “So often we donate money to buy mosquito nets, reading materials or give grants to provide a small, short-term fix.

58 “Often it can be better to give to longer-term projects that ultimately do 59 more good. And sometimes it is even better to give a source of income to people, so they have the ability to buy what they need most.”

Samasource believes the root cause of nearly all problems in the third world is extreme poverty. Janah explains: “If you increase people’s income they will build their own wells, run their own schools and create their Above: Leila Janah, founder own improvements.” of Sama and LXMI. Janah says it’s important not to think helping a smaller charity is less Janah saysmostto importantbe the is givingJanah effectively tip for more

“ effective. “So often we only look to donate to the very biggest charities that help millions of people and impress us with figures. Each human life has value – so ultimately giving to any charity will help someone.” »

samasource.org focussed on the long-term outcome. ‘So long-term money buy to mosquito the donate nets, on focussed outcome. we often materials a small, reading short-term or give provide grants fix’” to

WB01 P54-61 YOUNG PHILANTHROPISTS.indd 58-59 03/11/2016 14:12 william macaskill C e n tr e fo r E f fec t i v e A lt r u i s m , Oxfo r d

“As many as 75 per cent of charitable initiatives make no impact,” declares William MacAskill; 29-year-old Associate Professor in philosophy at Oxford University and author of Doing Good Better: Effective Altruism and a Radical New Way to Make a Difference, as an opening gambit when I meet him. “It is a controversial statement, but I’m afraid I actually believe it.”

“I’m not saying all charities are unworthy. However, people should approach giving to good causes in the same way as investing. They need to take a lot more care considering the facts.”

MacAskill is President of the Centre for Effective Altruism in Oxford. Effective altruism is a growing social movement that has caught the attention of many people looking for a better way to give. It aims to make the world a better place using hard scientific facts about charities in our donation decision-making. “Reading my book will open your eyes to effective altruism and how it applies to charities,” he says. “I hope it enables people to evaluate charities a lot more easily – or at least have a more rational approach to giving.”

MacAskill believes that effective altruists who join his 80,000 Hours organisation are able to do far more good by making the right career choices, allowing them to ultimately have a greater impact on the world, than limiting their pursuit of riches due to a heavy social conscience.

He also cites his charity Giving What We Can as an essential resource for 60 philanthropists. “It’s a community that shares information on how and 61 who to give to. Our members give 10 per cent of their income for life to the charities that are the most effective. It uses in-depth, scientific research to Above: are considering facts”are the

c William MacAskill. compare the work of all kinds of charities to make a decision over where associate philosophy lecturer at Oxford money is best spent.” University.

MacAskill says that for wealthy individuals able to make a substantial donation, Giving What We Can offers a ‘boutique’ giving service. “If you o good causes in the same way as investing. They need to take a lot more Theytaketo lotmore o gooda need as causessame way investing. in the

want to help specific types of charity, we can tailor your donations to the t right area.”

And the service is proving remarkably successful. “We had 23 members at launch in 2009 – now we have over 2,000. Together our pledges are in excess of $800 million and that total is increasing all the time.” “I’m not saying all charities are unworthy. However, people should approach giving people approach should However, “I’m not saying unworthy. all charities are

80000hours.org givingwhatwecan.org

WB01 P54-61 YOUNG PHILANTHROPISTS.indd 60-61 03/11/2016 14:12 A growing number of business men And women Are undertAking gruelling physicAl endurAnce chAllenges out in the wild to test their mettle. could it be their boArdroom experience thAt’s giving them An edge?

travel & sport 62 63 Adventure C A pitA list ryanthompson words by

WB0-1 P62-70 ALPHA ADVERTURERS.indd 62-63 03/11/2016 14:13 There is a place known to endurance athletes that cannot be found on a map, but attracts more and more visitors each year. It is colloquially known as ‘the pain cave’ and it exists inside your head. It is a place of prolonged suffering and the only access to it is through your body, which must endure something close to complete disintegration in order to cross the threshold.

There’s that word again: endure. Because that’s what you do in the pain cave. You endure it. You endure a gradual decline in your nervous system’s ability to contract your muscles. You endure hallucinations, dehydration and endotoxemia (when molecules usually confined to the gut make their escape into the bloodstream). You endure disruption to electrolyte homeostasis and the impairment of endocrine and immune function. You endure breathing problems and blisters that scream at you every single stride you take. But most of all, you must endure the incessant voice in your head willing you to stop this nonsense at once. Welcome to the world of the endurance athlete.

One might think that this is a world exclusive to the masochistic, or those born with an acute sensitivity to adrenaline – but you’d be wrong. Increasing numbers of ‘normal’ people, often from a C-Suite background, are participating in a rapidly growing repertoire of races designed to strip you of your ego and lay bare your physical and mental fortitude.

Researching the founders and organisers of various ultramarathons and endurance events is to uncover a Who’s Who of ex-global asset managers and former investment bankers. There’s people like Colin Geddes, »

64 65 Previous page: An adventurer stops for a break on the moraine just below the Paso Marconi, Patagonia. Photo courtesy of Michael Clark.

Above: Participants of the gruelling CEO Endurance World Championship. Photo courtesy of CEO Challenges.

Right: Athletes competing in the Isklar Norseman Xtreme Triathlon 2013, Norway. Photo courtesy of Espen Rassmusen.

Opposite page: Endurance running in the Big Red sand dune near Dubai.

WB0-1 P62-70 ALPHA ADVERTURERS.indd 64-65 03/11/2016 14:13 66 67

Above: Ice climbing in the Ouray Ice Park in Ouray, Colorado. Photo courtesy of Michael Clark.

Following page, left: The Isklar Norseman Xtreme Triathlon 2013 in Norway. Photo courtesy of Espen Rassmusen.

Following page, right: Team building “The question remains: Why? What motivates someone at the zenith expeditions run by Momentum Adventure. Photo courtesy of of his or her working career to commit to a gruelling four-month training schedule before Momentum Adventure. facing the ultimate endurance test?”

WB0-1 P62-70 ALPHA ADVERTURERS.indd 66-67 03/11/2016 14:13 formerly of Deutsche Bank and now the organiser of the Grand to Grand Ultra, a 273km self-supported footrace from the Grand Canyon to the Grand Staircase in Utah, and Mary Gadams, a former investment banker and now CEO of ultramarathon company Racing The Planet, which sponsors an annual 250km footrace in a different country each year. There is even an organisation, CEO Challenges, which plans and organises events for senior executives (ceochallenges.com).

The question remains: Why? What motivates someone at the zenith of his or her working career to commit to a gruelling four-month training schedule before facing the ultimate endurance test? Perhaps it is the competitive nature of the executive level that incubates these ‘Type A’ characters. Or perhaps it is the urge to swap an environment of complexity for one defined by a simple goal: survival. For Dean Karnazes, the endurance world’s poster boy, the answer is existential. In his book Ultramarathon Man: Confessions of an All-Night Runner, he writes: “People think I’m crazy to put myself through such torture, though I would argue otherwise. Somewhere along the line we seem to have confused comfort with happiness. Dostoyevsky had it right: ‘Suffering is the sole origin of consciousness.’ Never are my senses more engaged than when the pain sets in. There is a magic in misery. Just ask any runner.”

Karnazes should know. In 2004 he won the Badwater Ultramarathon, some 135 miles from Badwater in Death Valley to Mount Whitney, California and regarded by many in the endurance community as the toughest there is. The following year he ran 350 miles in 80 hours and 44 minutes without sleep and then in 2006 completed 50 marathons in 50 states on 50 consecutive days. “Struggling and suffering are the essence of a life worth living,” he writes. “If you’re not pushing yourself beyond the comfort zone, if you’re not demanding more from yourself – expanding and learning as you go – you’re choosing a numb existence. You’re denying yourself an extraordinary trip.” »

68 69 “If you’re not pushing yourself beyond the comfort zone, not pushing zone, “If comfort yourself beyond you’re the extraordinary trip” if you’re not demanding more from yourself – expanding not from demanding and learningif more you’re denying yourself an You’re choosing a numb existence. as go you – you’re

WB0-1 P62-70 ALPHA ADVERTURERS.indd 68-69 03/11/2016 14:13 weatherbysbank.com

The fact that endurance events are becoming increasingly popular among top-level executives in their 30s and upwards is perhaps down to their experience with stress. Unlike many other sports, where peak performance tends to be achieved in the mid-20s, ultramarathons and their ilk boast record times clocked by competitors in their 40s, such as Valmir Nunes, who at 52 has held the Badwater 135 record since 2007. Matt Carpenter, who has been described as one of the greatest mountain runners of all time, smashed the record for the Leadville Trail 100-mile race in 2005 by over an hour and a half. It still stands as the course record. He was 41 at the time.

According to a paper in the International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance, ultramarathoners “achieve their fastest running times between 30 and 49 years-old for men, and between 30 and 54 years old for women… and have 7.6 ± 6.3 years of experience in ultrarunning.” Another study in Sports Medicine in 2015 also found that there was consistent support for using visualisation, self-talk and goal-setting to boost endurance performance. This would seem to imply that the mental component is at the very least as important as the physical one and goes some way to explain why industry leaders – who have already surmounted a tall corporate ladder with all its pitfalls – may be better adept at handling Above: the mental challenges associated with endurance sport than their younger, A sea kayaking expedition just off fitter, but less experienced, counterparts. the northern tip of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, It’s clear that racking up the miles during a six-month training period isn’t Canada. 70 Photo by Michael just about hardening your body, it’s also priming your mind to embrace pain, Clark, courtesy of to welcome it in with open arms when all your body wants to do is shut it Red Bull. out. If you can do that, then the pain cave might just become a place you Below: Action shot of the could call home, albeit a mobile one. Grand to Grand Ultra, an endurance race spanning 273km in 6 stages over 7 days. Photo courtesy of Grand to Grand Ultra.

Weatherbys Private Bank is a trading name of Weatherbys Bank Ltd. Weatherbys Bank Ltd is authorised by the Prudential Regulation Authority and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority and the Prudential Regulation Authority. Financial Services Register number: 204571. Weatherbys Bank Ltd is registered in England. Registered number: 2943300. Registered Office: Sanders Road Wellingborough Northamptonshire NN8 4BX.

WB0-1 P62-70 ALPHA ADVERTURERS.indd 70 03/11/2016 14:13 WB01 - Weatherbys Ad.indd 1 28/10/2016 13:04 EpicurEan THE GREAT BRITISH COMFORT FOOD REVIVAL

72 73

IN TImes of ecoNomIc sTrIfe aNd sTraIN, crossan rob words by where do we all T urN To fIrsT for

comforT? where else ThaN The sTeamy kITcheNs, classIc cook books aNd recIpes of our youTh. Today, brITaIN’s mosT progressIve chefs are harkINg back To mrs beeToN as They crafT TheIr very moderN meNus

WB01 P72-78 COMFORT FOOD.indd 72-73 03/11/2016 14:14 If we Brits could somehow frame the highlights of our collective foodie nostalgia in a museum of our own making, then a glittering extension to the Tate Modern or a space-age wing of the Louvre it most certainly would not be. Reveries of flavour, texture and aroma are so emotionally layered and anchored in time, place and even national social history, no flashy internationalist crowd-pleasing aesthetics could possibly apply.

We have always been somewhat egalitarian about our food in Britain. Not for us the impressionistic continental fireworks of Escoffier, Adrià or Redzepi that doth seem to protest gastronomic credentials too much. Rather, the sort of reassuringly no-nonsense, substantial, steaming platters of hearty fayre served by Mrs Beeton’s Victorian kitchen continue to populate our personal chefs’ midnight orders and our dreams.

“We have always been somewhat egalitarian about our food in Britain. Not for us the impressionistic continental fireworks of Escoffier, Adria or Redzepi”

Although she died at the age of just 28 in the mid 1800s, cookery writer and household manual impresario Isabella Beeton continues to be the Brits’ Previous page, left: Isabella Mary alma mater for food that is economical, homely, warm and comforting. 74 Beeton, pictured in 75 1857. Mrs Beeton’s Beeton is our collective nursery nurse, whose nourishing food and advice Book of Household Management is one came to prominence in an era of industry and Empire, with good sense and of the most famous an uncomplicatedly maternal sensibility at its heart. cookery books ever published.

Previous page, right: Now a new generation of curious chefs, aided by a long awaited-revival in Impeccable roasted beef ribs on the bone. interest in such psychologically comforting cuisine that’s being spearheaded by food bloggers and culinary historians such as Polly Russell; mean that, Left: A steaming bowl of at long last, Mayfair’s white table-clothed establishments (who have seafood stew. never moved away from this sort of cuisine) are seeing rising customer Above: numbers, renewed appreciation and even a few new wave rivals. In an age Homemade pea, broccoli and zucchini where mysteriously insipid and insidiously patronising health foods such cream soup served with fresh baguette and as spirulina, avocado and quinoa appear to be gaining ground (thanks to green vegetables. their dedicated PR strategists and publicity budgets, no doubt) this is a delightfully renegade counterforce movement where Yorkshire pudding and roast beef rule. »

WB01 P72-78 COMFORT FOOD.indd 74-75 03/11/2016 14:14

menus”

their

in deploying

both

are

To see this millennial rebirth in full flourish, Kitty Fisher’s in Mayfair and credentials

Anglo near Leather Lane are both deploying proudly British credentials

Lane in their menus. Anglo’s chef, Mark Jarvis, offers up English asparagus,

flourish, Berkswell cheese and aged Hereford beef with ceps in an understated interior British full

that swerves the kind of ‘Henry VIII meets Lady Di memorial’ décor that has in

blighted so many Albion-accented restaurants over the last few decades. Leather

in Over in W1, Kitty Fisher’s Tomos Parry and Chris Leach are mixing classic rebirth

with creative to ubiquitous plaudits. A menu taking in whipped cod’s roe, Anglo

beef tartare, brown bread ice cream and blood oranges sounds like something a 19th century novelist filled with mid-Victorian zeal would have scoffed and down with ink stains still on his cuffs. Indeed, there is something Dickensian

millennial in the cosy nooks and caverns of this wildly popular spot.

76

Above: this

Mayfair But these newcomers seem to be complementing, rather than competing Classic steak tartare

with capers and in with, the traditional mores of the Great British restaurant. New life has see

fresh onions. been brought into Simpson’s in the Strand, which, close to closure last Right: “To year, has revived itself with a brand new cocktail menu and an end to the A comforting slow roasted beef stew

antiquated opening hours. The result is that their ever-sublime 28-day aged

with mushrooms and Fisher’s

pearl onions. rib of Scottish beef with roast potatoes, Savoy cabbage, Yorkshire pudding and, naturally, horseradish is now available throughout the day on Sundays Kitty meaning that, akin to our continental friends, it’s now possible to eat at almost any time of the day or evening.

proudly And the ultimate paean to Britain’s naturally abundant piscine pleasures, namely J Sheekey in the heart of Theatreland, has had a recent makeover, with an expanded oyster bar and maritime themed drawings by Quentin Blake (illustrator of Roald Dahl’s children’s books) in the windows. Their fish pie – a joyful gathering of cod, salmon, haddock, parsley, floury mashed »

WB01 P72-78 COMFORT FOOD.indd 76-77 03/11/2016 14:14 spuds and a breadcrumb topping – is perhaps the single best argument for native cuisine in the nation and to leave London without sampling it is a quite catastrophic culinary sin. This is timeless British food that still feels absolutely of the moment.

These shifts in attitude aren’t just confined to one side of the English Channel, either. New York, Los Angeles and the Gulf States now offer a wealth of new Brit restaurants that go way beyond the previous horrors of the expat pub serving up greasy fried breakfasts.

In style-savvy Melbourne, Papa Goose is flying the flag with its mod- Brit menu created by Neale White, served up in a two-floored warehouse structure on Flinders Lane in the heart of Melbourne’s ‘Golden Mile’ of restaurants. Dishes, melded in appropriately colonial expansionist style with more exotic herbs and spices, include pan-fried John Dory with asparagus, salted grapes and baby gem. The real fireworks come in the form of the braised oxtail, which, with carrot, silverbeet, baby king oyster mushroom and port sauce shows exactly what unctuous yet still light flavours can be created by tweaking traditional British recipes for the more modern palate.

Even Paris, the great refusenik of anything culinary related to us ‘rosbifs’, has buckled. Enter, stage left, Beef Club in the heart of Les Halles. The white tiled interior mimics an old London pie and mash shop but the food is infinitely more sophisticated than the décor, with rabbit livers, Scotch eggs, roasted artichokes, duck fat potatoes and steaks from the heart of Yorkshire singing out from the concise menu.

Most refreshingly of all, the clientele is far from the expected melee of homesick Brits. Rather the fashionistas of Paris have embraced Beef Club. “I thought that the only thing you could eat without getting sick in Britain was a curry,” one bearded chap in low slung denim commented to his girlfriend as they ate beside me on my visit.

If British food can even start impressing Parisians, then you know for sure that a serious gear shift towards the rebirth of Anglo Saxon grub is already 78 well underway. Vive les Rosbifs!

Rob Crossan is a food and travel writer who writes about British food monthly in GQ magazine and also contributes to the Daily Telegraph, Daily Mail and Sunday Times Travel Magazine.

Above: The exterior of J Sheekey, a top London seafood restaurant in the heart of Covent Garden. 155 ft long. Because life is short. Photo by Paul Winch-Furness. +44 (0) 1202 381 111 | www.sunseeker.com

WB01 P72-78 COMFORT FOOD.indd 78 03/11/2016 14:15 WB01 - Sunseeker Advert.indd 1 28/10/2016 15:51

SUN_104554626_Generic_335x240.indd 3 06/11/2015 15:16

: es real estate oll I n’s arch arch n’s I ta eccentrics I se of f of se I Br In Pra

80 81 mattcrofton words by

in early 2016 the vivat trust – heritage charity and guardian of britain’s most notable follies – went into liquidation. suddenly the commercial market was enlivened by these eye- catching real estate gems. b ut would you be mad enough to buy one?

WB01 P80-86 INCREDIBLE FOLLIES.indd 80-81 03/11/2016 14:15 “Quirky” may be high on the list of estate agents’ favourite hyperbolic Left and below: The award-winning euphemisms, but when it comes to a 37-foot stone pineapple, a gold- Lymm Water Tower, blending contemporary tipped tower or a castellated mock ruin, it sounds a bit understated. design with the building’s traditional A folly – which “should be a big, Gothick, ostentatious, over-ambitious features. Photo and useless structure”, according to the President of the Folly Fellowship, courtesy of Strutt & Parker. Gwyn Headley – is not an obvious candidate for a practical homestead to most people, but the allure of the eccentric is undeniable.

Generations of wealthy landowners have turned to architecture to express their character, peaking in the 18th and 19th centuries, when great British heirs and industrialists constructed Romantic ruins, temples and pavilions inspired by Grand European Tours. Escalating and ever-more ornate towers – often built using ground-breaking construction methods and eye-wateringly expensive materials – sprung up on landed estates as elaborate monuments to a patron’s ingenuity, taste and financial standing, while leading landscape designers such as Capability Brown sprinkled architectural ‘eye catchers’ in the finest stately grounds from Stourhead to Stowe.

These architectural novelties rarely become available to buy, but weekend property pages were flooded with pictures of extravagant Gothic towers this year after heritage charity The Vivat Trust went into liquidation, and a series of other high-profile follies came to market.

Standing taller than Nelson’s Column and topped with a 40-foot ‘lantern’, Hadlow Tower in Kent was the crown of The Vivat Trust’s portfolio. The “Ever-more ornate towers – often built using ground-breaking construction methods and ornate tower was built by industrialist Walter Barton May in 1838, and checks all of Gwyn Headley’s folly criteria. It briefly served a practical eye-wateringly expensive materials – sprung up as elaborate monuments to a patron’s ingenuity, purpose in World War Two, as a vegetable store and military observation taste and financial standing” post, but fell into disrepair and suffered significant damage in the storms of 1987. The Vivat Trust stepped in, acquiring it for just £1 in 2008 and embarking on a £4m restoration, which resulted in a visitor centre plus a remarkable – and very popular – three-bedroom holiday rental home.

The 14-storey Sway Tower in the New Forest also came up for sale this Summer (asking £2m+). This folly, which combines Gothic, Indian and Despite their spectacular settings and eye-catching charms, the Sway a medley of other architectural styles, was built by Yorkshireman Judge Tower and all Vivat Trust properties are still unsold at time of writing. And Andrew Peterson in 1879 and holds the record for being the world’s tallest it’s little surprise that these buildings have not been snapped up by eager non-reinforced concrete structure. It’s said that Peterson – a spiritualist – would be Grand Designers smitten with the idea of acquiring a ready- used a medium to consult Sir Christopher Wren (the architect of St Paul’s made personality extension. “Special buildings need special buyers,” says Cathedral, who died 150 years earlier and who, it turns out, was mad on Philip Eddell of Savills’ Country House Consultancy. And Britain’s follies concrete) throughout the design process. The lower levels were converted are about as special as buildings come. “As the name suggests, they are into a lavish four-bedroom home in 1990, complete with 60-foot indoor amusing to own but generally totally impractical,” says Eddell. swimming pool and 330-step spiral staircase. Just maintaining these eccentric structures takes dedication (and money), while converting them into viable residences is invariably a labour of love 82 over logic. 1983 Previous page: Broadway Tower, a Folly near the Russell Harris chronicled his family’s seven-year adventure – converting Cotswold Village of Broadway. Cheshire’s ornate but derelict Lymm Water Tower into a luxurious £2.5m Photo courtesy of Saffron Blaze. home – in a 15-part television series (The Seven Year Makeover). The project

Above: is probably the most well-documented folly conversion, and also one of One of the tallest the most successful; it won awards from the Royal Institute of British single properties in Britain, Hadlow Tower Architects and Grand Designs, and Channel 4’s resident design maven was built in 1838. Photo courtesy of Kevin McCloud regularly cites it as his favourite development. Eddisons. Right: When it was first built, Lymm Water Tower could have been a utilitarian A living room inside The Petersons Folly structure built to supply water to nearby houses. But a wealthy local Tower, Hampshire, built in 1879. landowner stepped in, offering to fund the build if he could design it; he Photo courtesy of went all-out, making the water tower look like a fairytale castle in a bid to John D Wood & Co. improve rather than blight the view from his nearby home. »

WB01 P80-86 INCREDIBLE FOLLIES.indd 82-83 03/11/2016 14:16 Nearly 150 years later, Harris bought the crumbling Victorian building almost by accident, impulsively putting in a sealed bid after seeing a for sale sign while driving past on his motorbike; “I never thought for a minute that we’d actually get it,” he says. “Somehow we did, and then had to think about what to do with it, and more importantly, how do we afford it.” It took three architects and seven gruelling years to create the extraordinary home – which boldly combines the fairytale tower with an ultra-modern glass extension – that’s now being offered for sale.

“I wouldn’t do it again,” admits Harris, “but I’m glad we did it; the end result is worth it. It cost us a fortune, but it is very beautiful. And the experience was a great thing.”

Not everyone has the patience (or pockets) to complete such a venture, despite the initial romance and excitement. The Earl and Countess of Perth bought perhaps the most famous British folly, The Pineapple in Stirlingshire, after the Dunmore Estate was broken up in the late 1960s, with plans to convert the then dilapidated building into a house. Four years later, however, they abandoned the grand scheme, donating the property to The National Trust for Scotland. The Landmark Trust – one of the most important organisations in the preservation of British follies – took on the

lease and renovated The Pineapple, converting it into a genuinely iconic and excitement” initial romance the despite a venture, holiday rental for up to four people that’s still one of the Trust’s most popular properties. “Not everyone such “Not (or patience pockets)complete has to the

The Pineapple was ostensibly built for Lord Dunmore, a former Governor of Virginia, as a pavilion and greenhouse to grow pineapples (obviously) in the late 1700s. Any function of the building is, however, more than eclipsed by the enormous and exquisitely-carved ornate stone fruit that sits on top.

The unique appeal but often limited practicality of converted follies makes them ideal candidates for holiday homes rather than permanent residencies, and it’s a well-established tradition. Founding fathers of the Arts and Crafts movement William Morris, Dante Gabriel Rossetti and Edward Burne-Jones, for instance, used to holiday in Worcestershire’s Saxon-inspired Broadway Tower (designed by James Wyatt and Capability Brown); it was here that Morris started his campaign for the preservation of historic monuments. There’s now, incidentally, a Cold War era nuclear bunker 15 feet below the tower. »

84 85 Left: The Dunmore Pineapple, a Folly in Dunmore Park, Scotland. Photo courtesy of Landmark Trust.

Right: The exterior of the Grade II listed Lymm Water Tower, Cheshire. Photo courtesy of Strutt & Parker.

WB01 P80-86 INCREDIBLE FOLLIES.indd 84-85 03/11/2016 14:16 While the days of grand Beckford-scale folly-building are behind us, there is “definitely, definitely” an ongoing demand for contemporary takes on the folly, says Savills’ Philip Eddell. “Look at any exciting garden design now, and it will have an architectural element.” A rare few modern follies – such as Donington Park’s 30-foot Pyramid, constructed in 2014 – sit clearly in the Capability Brown ‘eye catcher’ school, while others, such as artist James Turrell’s Skyspaces and collaborations between architect Ptolemy Dean and garden designer Tom Stuart-Smith, cross into more sculptural territory.

The Serpentine Galleries’ Summer House programme is perhaps the best illustration of this new breed. Every summer since the year 2000, the Galleries have invited an internationally renowned architect to create a temporary pavilion. This year, the commission was extended to include four art-meets-architecture summer houses by four international design practices. These structures, which are now being offered for sale with prices ranging from £95,000 to £125,000, “sit on the boundary between 86 sculpture and architecture,” says Matt Gibberd of specialist estate agency Above: The Modern House. “The primary function of these structures is to An interior view of the Hadlow Tower’s initiate an aesthetic and ideological response – they’re unfettered by the impressive staircase. Hadlow Tower requirements of residential architecture to provide practical, inhabitable was designed by spaces, and I think this freedom and space for experimentation is what architect George Ledwell Taylor and ultimately makes these structures really appealing for buyers.” constructed in 1838. Photo courtesy of Eddisons. Such practical whimsy forms the foundation of our enduring love affair Left: with follies; these buildings are eccentricity incarnate, representing an Asif Khan’s design for the Serpentine enduring celebration of individual passion and perhaps the most charming Summer House, 2016. Photo by Iwan Baan, form of ambition. The allure of the arch-eccentric – and the opportunity courtesy of The Modern House. to physically inhabit it – easily outweighs any pragmatic quirks that might put off the less ‘special’ resident.

As one Landmark Trust guest staying in the Dunmore Pineapple put it: “The experience of actually living in such a building is so much more rewarding than merely visiting.”

WB01 P80-86 INCREDIBLE FOLLIES.indd 86 03/11/2016 14:16 WB01 - Smythson Advert.indd 1 02/11/2016 12:59 knowledge

education 89

Private tutoring in Britain is a growth Theresa words by industry worth £6.5 Billion a year, and h arold Malachy guinness, founder of Bright young things and tutorcruncher, Believes the tuition Market is now riPe for investMent and revolution invest invest in

WB01 P88-92 PRIVATE TUTORING.indd 88-89 03/11/2016 14:16 Previous page, left: These high street centres cater to children under 14-years old, and are at Malachy Guinness and Woody St John the opposite end of the price scale to the private tutoring agency side of Webster, co-founders of Bright Young Things. the business. With a ratio of roughly four children per tutor, the tutor’s

Previous page, right: time is being shared but the children are still learning individually. “In a Woody St John sense, it’s still one-to-one tuition [but] sitting as a group,” says Guinness. Webster, co-founder of Bright Young Things, “I do think tuition centres will become the norm in Britain, much like they with pupil are in the Far East, America and Canada.” Left: A Bright Young Things tutor in action. As for investment opportunities in the centres, Guinness is as matter-of- Below, right: fact as ever. “We haven’t raised money yet; it’s all been self-funded. But after Growing young minds with opening our third centre in High Wycombe, everything will speed up, at one-on-one teaching.

which point we’ll need to raise more money. I think when we get to centre five, we’ll definitely be raising money.” ncern

co While the currently heated public debate over education has included

concern over the growing trend for private tuition centres, Guinness sees it as a fast-forward mechanism for learning, thereby giving pupils more

As a regular on The Tatler List (which describes luded time to do what they love. But he does understand that there is a certain inc

30-year-old Malachy thus: “This scion of the earning” s l defensiveness on the part of schools, and other traditional bodies within

r

brewing dynasty [is] pretty deft with chopsticks – it ha education at a time when standards and practices are a touchy subject all

fo he loves Japanese food – and holidays in Ireland round. Social mobility charity the Sutton Trust brands it “an escalating ees s

every summer.”), Guinness graduated from arms race in education” while the headteachers’ union, the NAHT, calls it Christ Church, Oxford, with a degree in Biological unhealthy for children. ducation Sciences. He is passionate about tutoring, chanism e

uinness and believes we need more options in the me “There’s this problem: a lot of schools take pride in bashing tutoring saying

ver G

education system. o

that it’s harmful to the children and so on, when clearly it’s not.” He pauses, taking a moment to search for an analogy. “It’s the difference between going When asked about the Prime Minister’s grammar to the gym and having a personal trainer. Having a personal trainer doesn’t ebate entres, d c

school reforms, Guinness stressed: “I’m all for make your life more stressful.” choice and I think one should be able to choose f

ublic a ition

to go to a grammar school or a selective school. Speaking of things that make your life less stressful, Guinness is also the p

tu as ast-forward It seems wrong to not allow given how much they mastermind behind TutorCruncher and TimeCruncher “We realised

Those who can, do; those who can’t, teach. Or so the saying goes. Increasingly, ted benefit some students. Obviously, the rights and very early on running the agency business that it was very admin-heavy,” those who can, also teach. But this isn’t teaching in the sense of the unending ivate

wrongs of having a single entry at 11 Plus…that hea explained Guinness. “We found that we were spending most of our time

pressure and long hours involved in working at schools. This is teaching in pr is difficult because I don’t like exams for children. doing admin, rather than doing what was important. So we built a bit of the sense of one-to-one, in-home tuition, with a sense of camaraderie and r

fo software that did that for us. The first time we built it, we thought ‘This inspiration built in.

“I don’t think it’s the way you should spend your rrently is actually rather a good product’, and we saw an opportunity to sell it to end cu

childhood, worrying about exams. That was one others. So we set up a new company called TutorCruncher. tr e Welcome to the world of the super-tutor. No doubt you’ll have read about of my motivations for providing tuition – to take th the £1,000 per hour fees, and the Russian families paying tutors to live with away some of the stress of exams. People say “It’s kind of incredible in a way, because it allows [other tutoring agencies] to them for a year in Moscow. Perhaps you’ll have even invited one to stay in ‘Oh, tutoring puts pressure on children’. Quite compete with us. But at the same time, someone had to do it. It’s now got

your home over half term. g the opposite! Giving children tuition takes away

“While over a hundred tutor companies using it, all over the world.”

the stress of exams because they’re helped.” th rowing The truth is, parents today are more likely than ever to employ the services e 90 And to what does he credit this extraordinary success in an already crowded 91 of a private tutor. The proportion of tutored pupils has risen by more than

over This idea of good tutoring making children’s lives marketplace? “It sounds obvious, but getting to know your industry really a third over the past decade, from 18 per cent in 2005 to 25 per cent in easier is at the heart of Bright Young Things. well. The only reason I’ve achieved the things I have in the tuition industry 2015. In London, 44% of pupils have private or home tuition. Naturally, the Aside from the in-home tuition service – where is because I used to do a lot of tuition myself. My record was 100 hours » number of tutors offering their services has grown, as has the number of tutors often travel out of London to live with a tuition agencies, leading to questions of regulation. family for a half-term week and take on a more mentoring role – the company also operates “It needs to be recognised as an important part of the education system,” tuition centres, the third of which has just opened. says Malachy Guinness, who co-founded private tuition agency Bright Young Things with his business partner Woody St John Webster in 2008. “It’s very telling how little it’s [officially] recognised, simply by the fact that there is no category in any sort of government language for what we do. Even in Ofsted’s eyes, our tuition centres are registered as childcare centres!

“[This informality] doesn’t affect our business, but I do think that tutoring needs to be seen as part of the answer, rather than this slightly informal industry which people don’t really understand,” he says.

WB01 P88-92 PRIVATE TUTORING.indd 90-91 03/11/2016 14:17 “I was able to do things differently because I really understood the market. If you only skim the surface, you will probably be doing things the same way other people always have”

in 10 days. I got to really understand what students wanted, what parents wanted, and I was able to do things differently because I really understood the market. If you only skim the surface, you will probably be doing things the same way other people always have.

“I was reading an interesting article this morning about how lots of people think tech companies are an easy win. Yet there’s a huge amount of work that happens in the background on tech companies, and we’ve seen that with TutorCruncher. The dream is that you build a product once, and you’ll be able to sell it lots of times, but the reality is we work very hard…every year, the product is essentially rebuilt because things are always changing.”

Indeed, Guinness does not come across as a man content to rest on his laurels. From his work with TutorCruncher, he extrapolated the idea beyond tutoring and created TimeCruncher. “TimeCruncher was written in a generic 92 language, and we’re trying to sell that to all other industries that operate in similar ways, i.e. unitised billing,” he says with enthusiasm. “I always think that racehorse trainers could use TimeCruncher. The horse could be the ‘student’ and the owner could be the ‘parent’,” laughs Guinness.

If Guinness’ impact on lessening the strain of children’s education is anything to go by, the equestrian world should take note.

Above, right: Eager pupils being PARADISE tutored by Woody St John Webster. A rare and intense green Colombian emerald set in an exotic, one-of-a-kind

Above, left: diamond cluster design. Made by hand in London from the finest platinum. Members of the Bright Young Things Management team with the founders. WHERE EVERY PIECE IS A WORK OF ART

13 GRAFTON STREET W1 + 44 ( 0 ) 20 7499 6814 HIRSHLONDON.COM

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WB01 P94-95 NEWS AND EVENTS.indd 94-95 03/11/2016 14:19 Q&A

my money matters william asprey

1. s Whatha moneyhelpedyoutoachieveinlife(orbusiness) ofwhichyouaremostproud? Setting up William and Son. I founded the company in 1999 and since then we have earned a Royal Warrant and an international reputation, with an 8,600 square foot store in Mayfair’s Bruton Street. Wherever possible our own collections are produced by British artisans, ensuring that traditional crafts not only survive but are reinvigorated. I’m especially proud of that.

2. Wouldyousayyou’reaspenderorasaver? Spender!

3. What’syourgreatestextravagance? My wife and horses!

4. Wisestinvestment?  Chriselliam. She was an Irish-bred, British-trained Thoroughbred co-owned by my daughter Emily. In 2013 she established herself as one of the leading British- trained fillies of her generation by winning the Fillies’ Mile, recorded a decisive win in the Breeders’ Cup Juvenile Fillies Turf and was officially rated the best two-year-old filly in Europe.

5. Mostprizedasset? It has to be William & Son.

6. Everyday luxury? 96 Cashmere. William asprey is the seventh 7. Whatdohatewastingmoneyon? generation of the asprey family Anything! to specialise in luxury goods A VERY BRITISH AFFAIR 8. Whatdoyouthinkisthesinglebestthinganyonecando With the ongoing success of his toprepareforafinanciallysecurefuture? mayfair-based business William Invest carefully and if you feel at all unsure keep the money in the bank! & son. he lives in berkshire With his Wife lucy 9. What doyouthinkmattersmore–educationorenterprise? Education, as hopefully one will lead to the other.  10. Whichthreethingswouldyousavefromyourhomeinthe eventoffire? Watches, jewellery and the dogs!

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issue #01 2016

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