WEST MAINLAND - EVIE MAINLAND - EVIE t h

g Coastline The parish has a i r y

p dramatic and varied coastline. o c

n Costa Hill with the 125m w o r cliffs at lies to the C west and overlooks a rugged coast which goes all the way to Grit Ness. The Sands of Evie , or Aikerness (ON Akra-nes , Arable Land Point), is one of the best beaches on the West Mainland .

There was a large expanse of Sound from the Sands of Evie - or Aikerness as it is called in sand dunes behind the beach, but these have been largely the sea by the farmer so that EVIE (ON Efja , back-current Eynhallow and Costa is a fero - reduced by sand-extraction, the Crown could not claim it! in a river, referring to cious tide-race which is at its and are only slowly regenerat - One can only speculate on the Aikerness Bay and the strong most impressive when a ing. All the same the beach folly of this selfish person, tide which sweeps past like a Spring Ebb and a northwest - still makes a pleasant walk. It spurred on by state greed. river) faces erly gale coincide. The is very good for Spoots (Razor The remains of further two and . The Burgar Vikings called it Efjusund . Fish) at extreme low tides. brochs lie nearby at Knowe of Rõst, which forms between Grugar (HY35727) and Knowe The changing light affords a of Stenso (HY364267), while wide range of colours on the there is a further one at the waters of Eynhallow Sound. Craig of Ritten (HY401249) , This is also a good area to near Woodwick. search for seaside plants. The Costa Head has dramatic 125m-high cliffs, The Standard is an impressive stack car makes an excellent hide to On the Rousay side there are Knowe o’Aikerness In 1929, a flight of stairs leading down observe wading birds and sea at least a further 6 brochs in a Robert Rendall the well- into the knowe. What was to ducks. Seals are often to be line from the Westside to known poet, antiquarian and become known as the of seen, and Otters are quite Brinyan. They are dotted all naturalist, was sitting on the Gurness was soon to be exca - common along the more shel - round the Wide Firth as well Knowe o’Aikerness sketching tered shores. as the eastern approaches. the scene. One of the legs of This concentration of brochs his stool sank into a hole, and EVIE ATTRACTIONS Brochs In the short distance must have been most impres - before long he had discovered Eynhallow Sound and Rousay from Burgar between Costa and sive to visitors. Broch of Burgar Eynhallow Sound from Burgar Hill Woodwick, there are at least Summer sunset down Eynhallow Sound Knowe of Stenso six brochs , five of which are Lowrie’s Water small compared to the massive Peerie Water Broch of Gurness . The Broch Loomachun of Costa is the most westerly Burgar Hill and sited to be invisible from Aerogenerators the seaward. Burgar Broch Sands of Aikerness (HY353277), at the Point of Woodwick Hisber, was excavated in the Moors RSPB Reserve 19 th century and a Pictish sil - Hillside Road ver hoard was found. Eynhallow Sound Costa Head Apparently it was thrown into

344 345 WEST MAINLAND - EVIE MAINLAND - EVIE

convenient to murder the can be observed without caus - mother rather than seek the ing any disturbance. The real cause of death. adults’ calls can often be heard as they fly back and forth from In four centuries we have not their fishing grounds. moved very far. Today moth - Although breeding numbers ers are still persecuted for have dropped here, it has not infanticide by the establish - been shown to have been ment, and often imprisoned, caused by the wind turbines only to be released when the experts are proven fallible. From the hide all of Orkney’s moorland birds may be seen, Aerogenerators Attempts to including Merlin, Hen Red-throated Diver (Loom) harness the energy of the wind Harrier, Short-eared Owl and have been made in Evie since Whimbrel. Take the signpost - years Basking Sharks have been hauled out along the shore, or the early 1950s, when a proto - ed road off the A966 for seen in Eynhallow Sound, per - foraging among the seaweed, type aerogenerator was access. Parts of the Reserve haps feeding on plankton stirred especially near the Broch of installed on Costa Hill. can also be reached by the up by the rapid change in depth Gurness . Otters may also be Unfortunately it blew down in many peat tracks which lead in the Burgar Rõst which goes seen in Evie , and the Burn of a big gale in 1953. In the into the hill. from less than 10m to more Desso at Aikerness and the 1980s several experimental than 20m in a short distance. Woodwick Burn being likely wind turbines were built on Marine Animals In recent Common Seals are often seen spots in the gloaming. Burgar Hill (HY343261, 259m), and now 6 large tur - bines generate electricity. The The Woolshed location was chosen due to the Craft workshop producing traditional high average windspeeds. knitwear, homemade felt goods and sheep - Aerogenerators on Burgar Hill Issues such as nature conser - skin rugs. North Ronaldsay wool in natu - vated. The name Gurness is “to be taken to Olly Smith, the vation and amenity limit the ral colours for handknitters. most likely a corruption of lockman, have her hands bund number of possible sites in Benlaw, Costa, Evie KW17 2NN Aikerness. behind her back, convoyed by Orkney for such develop - Tel (01856) 751305 Justice, 17 th century-style the said lockman to the oise ments. Woodwick Burn and woods About 1630 a young girl was mouth, and drowned in the sea accused of child murder and to the death” . At a time when Research is also being con - sentenced to death in the infant mortality was no doubt ducted on the tidal flows of Woodwick House manner of the times. She was very high, it must have been Eynhallow Sound to see if it Country House Hotel would be a suitable location to The first experimental aerogenerator was on Costa Hill install an experimental tidal “An extraordinary, generator. While the amounts peaceful location set in of energy involved are very beautiful surroundings large, the engineering prob - with bluebell woodland, lems are also huge. burn and secluded bay.” Birsay Moors RSPB Reserve spills over into Evie , and there Our superb cuisine makes use of prime local produce is a bird-hide at Lowrie's and seafood.Open to non-residents, Full licensed with Water (HY345257) on selection of Orkney malts and ales. Open all year. Burgar Hill, from where breeding Red-throated Divers Tel (01856) 751330 www.woodwickhouse.co.uk

346 347 BROCH OF GURNESS (OR AIKERNESS ) IRON AGE BROCH AND VILLAGE

The Entrance to the settle - ment is via a causeway over the eastern ramparts and ditches. There are outer and inner gateways to pass through before the main door - way of the broch can be reached. The entrance to the broch itself is very impressive with a characteristic large lin - tel. The 6m passage with guard cells on either side was defended by a massive wooden Broch of Gurness and Eynhallow Sound from the south door, whose jambs, hinges and square bolt holes call all be seen.

Interior Originally there was a central hearth and an under - ground well with steps going Aerial view of the Broch of Gurness from the northeast down to a collecting tank, THE BROCH OF GURNESS hauling boats and nearby The Broch is about 20m in while the subdivisions seem to (HY383269) is one of fishing grounds make it easy diameter with walls about 6m be a later addition. Stone cup - Orkney's best-preserved to see why the site was chosen. thick and an internal space of boards and fittings survive, brochs . The domestic build - at least 80m 2. If Mousa Broch but originally much of the ings around it are more exten - Ramparts The broch was in is typical, the interior would have been Rebuilt Pictish Shamrock house at the entrance sive and have survived better originally surrounded by three Gurness structure could have wooden , with a first floor sup - ported on the scarcement S than those at any other broch. massive ramparts and ditches originally reached 13m, but M The view down Eynhallow at least 2m deep. Erosion has the Shetland broch is regarded about 3m above the floor. N Sound is one of the finest in removed part of the north of as a late example. The tower Orkney. The excellent defen - the site, so the original layout would have been an excellent The well is a complex struc - sive position, adjacent good is unknown, but the central source of building stone once ture built in a hole about 4m farmland, a fine beach for area is about 48m in diameter. it had fallen out of use. by 5m quarried out of the rock. It includes a 18-step 1930s site plan of the Broch of Gurness The Gurness well stairway, chambers with cor - S S M M belled roofs and a cistern at H H A A the bottom with an elaborate C C R R roof. Although it may have Ogam-inscribed knife handle Cell, doorjams and socket for bar inside the entrance Interior detail of the Broch of Gurness m m u u e e s s u u M M

y y e e n n k k r r O O

348 349 BROCH OF GURNESS (OR AIKERNESS ) IRON AGE BROCH AND VILLAGE

age cupboards, drains and even a toilet. There are small - er rooms off the main living rooms as well as small sheds and open yards.

The broch itself may have been constructed before the 2nd century BC or earlier and occupation continued into Pictish times. Bone artefacts such as weaving combs, pins, hair combs and other tools The Broch of Gurness remains impressive from the sea Broch of Gurness from the south east showing ramparts, ditches and entrance causeway were also present. Bronze been used as a well the overall have accommodated up to 30 pins and a penannular broch Roman amphora from AD60 houses which at the Point of rampart near the entrance. impression is of something families. This village appears which could have been made or earlier were also found in Buckquoy in Birsay. She wore a finely woven cloth symbolic rather than purely to have been occupied while on the site were also found. the 1930s. These were used to garment and an iron necklace. practical, especially in view of the broch was in use and it Pottery included a variety of transport wine or olives. Viking Grave The grave of a An iron sickle was at her right th the similarities to Minehowe may be that the whole com - sizes of vessels, some almost Roman pottery was also well-off 9 century Norse side and a wooden-handled in . plex was planned from the complete. At least one frag - found at Oxtro and Midhowe woman who had been buried knife at her left. These objects outset. Houses share side and mentary Pictish symbol stone brochs, while coins were with two large matching oval can be seen in the Orkney Village Within the space back walls and are furnished was also present. recovered from the Broch of bronze brooches at her breast Museum. between the broch and the in stone, with hearths, cooking Lingro. Whether the artefacts was discovered in the eastern ramparts the settlement might tanks, drains, box-beds, stor - Ogam Inscription An iron are the result of trade, foundry was in use at the site exchange or direct contact will and many Pictish artefacts, probably never be known. including an Ogam-inscribed bone knife-handle with an Pictish Houses The houses iron blade were found. A at the entry gate were rebuilt recent transliteration of this in their present position as inscription suggests that it is they were removed to expose in fact in Old Norse and reads, earlier structures during exca - “IN EITTE MUN MATS, In vation. One, with five cells off Memory of Mats”, (or perhaps a central room, is typically Kvamms). The context of this Pictish, while the other is find is unknown, but the argu - oblong. They are the only ment is persuasive. such houses on view in Viking female burial with oval brooches, sickle and knife Roman Finds Parts of a Orkney and resemble the Interior of the broch from the west Viking brooch in Orkney Museum Iron Age pottery found in the 1930s Cell, doorjams and socket for bar inside the entrance Interior detail of the Broch of Gurness m u e s u M

y e n k r O

350 351 WEST MAINLAND - RENDALL MAINLAND - RENDALL t h

g some of the medieval burials to i r y

p the east of the kirk on the top of o c

n the shore. They have been w o r removed, and after research will C be reburied.

Doocot There is an interesting 17 th century Doocot (HY422207) at the Hall of Rendall . Unique in Orkney, this Wasswick WWII Coastal Battery at Queenamuckle There is a large broch mound at Tingwall structure has four external of Isbister are good places to see ly held in after it courses of flagstones to discour - Views and Walks Rendall may wintering and migrant wildfowl became the seat of the Earl, age rodents. A hole in the roof lack the spectacular coastline and wading birds , while the probably at Parliament Square allows access for pigeons which and sites of interest of some RSPB Reserve at Cottascarth which was near the Bridge over nest in gaps in the internal parishes, but it offers attractions (HY369195) with its hide is the Papdale Burn, where the RENDALL , (ON Rennudalr , the Hall of Rendall has been stonework The nearby Holm of all of its own. The views across perhaps the best place in Hydro Electric shop is now. Valley of the Renna), a small severely eroded by the sea, but a Rendall has a colony of Arctic the Wide Firth from the Orkney to see Hen Harriers. stream, may originally have large part of the west side Terns, with some Sandwich Gorseness Road to the North Nearby there are fine views to World War II The Wasswick formed one estate, probably remains, along with extensive Terns. Isles are very fine, especially the east from the Lyde Road Battery at Queenamuckle including Gairsay , belonging at ruins. Iron Age pottery and a from the top of Gorseness Hill (HY369186). (HY420226) remains virtually one time to Sweyn Asleifson , bone weaving comb have been Another ruined chapel sits amid (HY409202) and nearby Enyas complete. Two 12-pounder the famous Viking so often found here. a graveyard on the north side of Hill with its probable cham - Moorland Walk The road up guns were mounted here to mentioned in the Orkneyinga the Bay of Henderayre, just bered cairn. Milldoe Hill (HY358208, defend the Gairsay Sound Saga , and his family. St Thomas’s Kirk and grave - south of the Knowe of Dishero. 211m) to a radio mast starts entrance to the Wide Firth. yard lies just to the north. This In this case a high sea-wall pro - Otters The low banks along south of Tingwall . It is a stiff Manned by 151 Coast Battery, Iron Age The string of brochs 12 th century Norse kirk was tects the site. this sheltered shore are the but interesting moorland walk, the guns saw no action, but were which line the shores of Evie and most likely built by the local haunt of Otters, which may with superb views across the Bay probably effective by merely Rousay continues along the Viking chieftain, in this case Mossetter A typical old sometimes be seen swimming of Firth to Shapinsay and being there. Rendall coast. Tingwall perhaps even Sweyn himself. Orkney Farm Steading at just offshore. They are frequent - beyond, as well as to Kirkwall (HY401229) has a large broch Since there is no kirk or grave - Mossetter (HY390197) down a ly seen around the Bay of and the East Mainland . Ferry Terminal Tingwall is the mound above the ferry terminal. yard on Gairsay this was track off the A966 has many fea - Isbister and in the Cruan Burn. departure point for the car ferry There are smaller examples at undoubtedly the place of wor - tures found in longhouses. This Tingwall (ON Thing-vollr , Ting Eynhallow , which serves Wass Wick, near the Hall of ship and burial of the “Buckies” , three-roomed building is on a Birds The Loch of Brockan Field, HY403228), a large Rousay , Egilsay and Wyre with Rendall and at Knowe or Gairsaymen. Recent storms slope, with the byre at the bot - (HY395190) and nearby Oyce broch mound near the shore, is several crossings per day. o’Dishero. The broch north of and high tides have exposed tom. Man and beast used the one of several meeting places of St Thomas’s Kirk with nearby broch mound, Gairsay is in the background same entrance, cattle turning Female Hen Harrier the Norse "Ting". This is proba - Hall of Rendall Doocot left, humans right into the living bly where the Earls Magnus and room. Haakon had their disagreement before the fateful meeting on Neuk beds and other recesses in Egilsay . Tingwall would have the walls are reminiscent of been a convenient meeting place and Skara for people from the North Isles Brae . The house was originally a and West Mainland . firehouse , with a fire-back and smoke went out through the There are other Ting place roof as at Kirbuster Farm, but a names in Orkney, such as chimney was installed to slightly Dingieshowe (ON Tings-haugr , improve the amenities. Thing Mound) in Deerness . The main Ting was undoubted -

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