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STEPPING BACK in TIME Ornate Romanesque Stone Arches, Nave and Chancel

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STEPPING BACK in TIME Ornate Romanesque Stone Arches, Nave and Chancel EYNHALLOW Eynhallow lies between Rousay & The Mainland and is 1km by 1km. It is currently uninhabited and was abandoned in 1851. Eynhallow means Holy Island Eyin - Helga in Old Norse. Eynhallow folklore tells of the island being inhabited by dark shape shifting sorcerers known as the Finfolk. MONASTERY (30) ROUSAY ∙ EGILSAY ∙ WYRE There is a probable monastery (30) on the south-west side of the island. This was discovered in 1851 when the inhabitants were evacuated due to typhoid contaminated well water. Four families lived in a row of cottages with thatched roofs. To prevent the spread of disease the buildings roofs were removed which led to the discovery of a chapel with two STEPPING BACK IN TIME ornate Romanesque stone arches, nave and chancel. The west end has a square porch which could be the remains of a square church tower. The chapel is built from local stone, yet red sand stone pieces lie outside of the kirk, similar to the stone used in the building of the St Magnus Cathedral and that found at The Wirk. It is thought these were uncovered during evacuation in the 19th century but it is possible that they were brought there during restorations in the early 20th century. Due to the island’s Norse name it is believed that there may have been a pre-Norse structure under the current church / monastery. Geophysical survey around the monastery in 2007 showed a possible circular enclosure below the present monastery. An archaeological survey of the whole island in the same year by the UHI Archaeology Institute recorded numerous enclosures, rig and furrow, ruined farmhouses and a burnt mound on the eastern coast. You can visit Eynhallow on the annual summer Orkney Heritage Society trip. SOURCES AND FURTHER READING Canmore - National Monument Record online, Historic Environment Scotland Pastmap - National Monument Record available on searchable map online National Library of Scotland - Map Images available in Digital Resources online Rousay Remembered – local heritage and archaeology website Swandro - Orkney Coastal Archaeology Trust – website with reports and information University of the Highlands & Islands Archaeology Institute blog ‘Archaeology Orkney’ Orkneyjar - Orkney heritage, folklore and archaeology website The Megalithic Portal – website for prehistoric monuments worldwide Undiscovered Scotland - online guide to Scotland Books: The Chambered Cairns of Orkney. J.L Davidson & A.S. Henshall, 1989. Towers of the North. The Brochs of Scotland. I. Armit, 2003. Swandro-Orkney Coastal Archaeology Trust A New History of Orkney. W.P.L. Thomson, 2008. The Little General and the Rousay Crofters. W.P.L. Thomson, 1981 (reprinted 2000). Produced by Rousay Egilsay & Wyre Heritage © 2018, in collaboration with UHI Archaeology Institute. Funded by Heritage Lottery Fund and the Rousay Egilsay and Wyre Development Trust for the Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology. ARCHAEOLOGY & HISTORY BOOKLET Text by Helen Castle (REW Development Trust), Dan Lee (UHI) & Sarah Jane Gibbon (UHI). Design by Sean Page (UHI) Map data: contains OS Open Data © Crown Copyright/database right 2018. Photos kindly provided by Max Fletcher (Rousay Remembered), Swandro-Orkney Coastal Archaeology Trust (cover), Vix Simcock, Helen Castle and UHI Archaeology Institute. 16 ROUSAY ∙ EGILSAY ∙ WYRE WYRE The three islands of Rousay, Egilsay & Wyre have been shaped by nature and people over the CUBBIE ROO’S CASTLE (28) last 6,000 years, creating the isles as we know them today. This booklet is a brief summary of the archaeology and history of our islands. It aims to provide information on the most The castle is mentioned in Orkneyinga prominent sites, places and events, plus websites and sources where further information can saga and is one of the oldest stone built be found. castles in Scotland. The castle is named after Kolbein Hruga, the Norwegian Sites have been grouped by island and district. On Rousay, the story moves clockwise around chieftain, who lived there. The castle is the island from Frotoft in the south, to Westness, Wasbister and Sourin in the east. believed to have been built in c1145. In Numbers in the text refer to sites marked on the map below. Hakon's Saga, it is mentioned that after the last Norse Earl of Orkney, Earl CUBBIE ROO’S CASTLE, WYRE Max Fletcher John, was murdered in Thurso in 1231, his killers fled to Wyre. They took refuge in the castle, which was so strong that the besiegers could not breach it. An almost square stone keep with three walls 7.8 metres along and one 7.9 metres, with c 1.7 metre thick walls is defended on the outside by a series of ramparts, with a ditch, earthworks and stone wall. In the 1930s archaeological excavations, found that the castle was in use for some time, and had at least five additional external building phases with extensions added to the main tower. The surviving castle walls are two metres high, with only the ground floor remaining. The entrance to the keep was in the first floor as recorded by Wallace in 1688. ST MARY’S CHAPEL (29) The chapel is located just below the castle in a small valley. This 12th century chapel is now roofless, but largely complete with Romanesque architecture. The chapel was in a state of ruin by 1791 but was partly restored in the late 19th century at the instruction of General Burroughs. The site was again cleared of debris in the 1930s. There is a walled burial ground surrounding the chapel. This is a rare surviving example of a medieval church, the likes of which would have once been found in most Orkney townships, and its survival is likely due to its continued use as a chapel of ease for the people of Wyre long after the parish churches were designated in the twelfth century. EDWIN MUIR (1887 - 1959) The famous Orcadian poet, novelist and translator, was born on a farm in Deerness, but as a child lived on Wyre at Bu. In later life he looked back on this life in Orkney as ‘a kind of idyll, innocent and free, a dream of Eden’. This is most clearly described in his poem ‘One TIMELINE Foot in Eden’. BROOCH REPLICA Max Fletcher 2 15 THE MAGNUS STORY ROUSAY ∙ EGILSAY ∙ WYRE In the early twelfth century, cousins Magnus Erlendsson and Hakon Paulsson ruled the ROUSAY Orkney and Caithness Earldoms. Both earls worked well together at the start of their reign, Rousay is a hilly island 3 km north west but this did not last through the interference of chieftains. The quarrelling earls soon nearly of Orkney Mainland, and has been came to blows and a confrontation was planned at Tingwall (Old Norse thingvollr – assembly nicknamed ‘the Egypt of the north’ due field). The confrontation was averted and Egilsay was agreed as the place to make peace. At to its wealth of archaeological sites. Easter in 1116 or 1117, each agreed to bring two ships and the same number of men. A With an area of 48 sq.km (18.8 square large wave struck Magnus’s ship en-route to Egilsay, giving him a sign all was not well. miles), it is the fifth largest island in the Orkney archipelago. The name Rousay When Hakon arrived with eight ships, Magnus knew peace would not be made. Hakon found is of Norse origin and means ‘Rolf’s Magnus in hiding on Egilsay and brought him before local chieftains. The chieftains insisted island’. Originally known as 'Rollesay' in one of the earls had to die as they were tired of their disruptive joint rule. Magnus stepped the 14th century, then 'Rolsay' in the forward to accept his fate. Hakon ordered his standard bearer, Ofeig, to execute Magnus, 15th, and 'Rowsay' in the early 16th but he refused. So Hakon ordered his cook, Lifolf, to carry out the deed. Lifolf wept, but century. The island became known as EYNHALLOW UHI Archaeology Institute Magnus comforted him and forgave him for carrying out the order. Magnus requested not to 'Rousay' thereafter. For several be beheaded like a criminal, so Lifolf struck him hard on the head splitting his skull in two. hundred years, Rousay people have earned their living mainly from farming and fishing. Most Magnus was buried on the spot he was killed and denied a Christian burial. of the farming is undertaken around the lowland coastal fringe of the island. The hilly interior contains peat bogs and with fresh water lochs - ideal for more adventurous walking routes. Orkneyinga Saga tells that the rocky ground where he was buried turned into a green field. In the 19th century, records show there were other trades on Rousay such as blacksmiths Magnus’ mother eventually persuaded Hakon to allow a Christian burial for Magnus. Magnus and joiners, shoemakers and shopkeepers, was moved to Birsay and was buried in Christ Church, built by his grandfather Thorfinn dressmakers and straw plaiters. Rousay's Sigurdsson (remains of Christ Church have been found below the present St Magnus Church population in the mid-19th century was over in Palace settlement). Miracles occurred and the grave glowed with a bright light and sweet 900, but after land clearances this was reduced fragrance. Twenty years later, Magnus was proclaimed a saint and his remains were to 627 by 1900, and half a century later it had enshrined above the altar in Christ Church. His relics were translated to Kirkwall, and first fallen to 342. Depopulation accelerated, and in WESTNESS UHI Archaeology Institute housed in St Olaf’s Church before being translated in c 1145 to St Magnus Cathedral in the next twenty years resident numbers fell to Kirkwall following its foundation in 1137. 181. From the 1970s, new families started to settle on Rousay, many coming from England, increasing the population to around 200.
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