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WEST MAINLAND - THE t

h verted to solar power in g i r

y 2001 and stands above low p o

c cliffs on the seaward side. n w

o Puffins breed in rabbit bur- r

C rows along the top of these cliffs, one of the very few places on the Mainland where they can be seen. Brough Head is a good place for sea watching dur- ing bird migration times. Killer, Minke and Pilot Whales are occasionally seen from here, possibly attracted by the rich feeding where tides meet. Aerial view of the Norse settlement and church on the Brough of Birsay BIRSAY The Vikings called described in the Orkneyinga The island is only accessible Pictish leader in the 7th or 8th glass were found around the the whole area of Birsay and Saga), he built 's first when the tide is out via a century. well, suggesting that it may "Byrgisherad" (ON cathedral, Christchurch, at concrete path which leads have been used to quench Byrgisey, island of the Birsay for his new Bishop, across the rocks of Brough The only Pictish structure work. On some moulds the enclosure or rampart and in about 1057. Most of the Sounds. This path can be visible is the small well east design of the piece to be cast Herad, district). Birsay was north of Birsay became slidy and should not be of the church wall. However, could be seen, confirming important in Viking times known as “The Barony” crossed if it is covered, as excavations have revealed that the designs were and was a favourite resi- and was Bishopric land from the strong tide can be dan- many Pictish artefacts. Pictish. Bone pins and dence of the Earls as well as about 1060 until 1595. gerous. There is also fre- Bronze casting was an combs of Pictish type were the first seat of the Bishop, quently a big surge when the important activity and many found, as well as a possibly who only moved to The Brough of Birsay seas are high. In early sum- moulds, crucibles, pieces of 5th century penannular during the building of St (HY235285), is a very mer the turf takes on a pink Pictish well on the Brough of Birsay bronze and fragments of and a lead disc with an Magnus Cathedral. attractive grassy island off and then a blue tinge as it in m

Plan of St Peter’s Kirk and the “monastery” u e s

the northwest corner of the turn becomes covered in a S u M M

Earl Mainland. This sea of flowering Thrift and H y A e C (ruled 1014-1064) lived here has a lighthouse, which was then Spring Squill. n k R r

and in the latter part of his built in 1925, as a gas-pow- O colourful time as Earl (as ered automatic. It was con- The Brough was inhabited long before the Vikings Aerial view of the Brough of Birsay from the west arrived, the earliest evidence being from the late 6th centu- ry of Celtic people who may Mould for casting a pin have been Christians. A bro- Moulds for casting jewellry pieces ken symbol stone with the m u e

figures of three warriors and s u

other Pictish symbols was M y found here, as well as a e n k smaller stone with an incised r O cross. A replica of the large stone is on the site and it seems that the Brough was the home of an important

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WEST MAINLAND - BIRSAY THE BROUGH OF BIRSAY AND THE POINT OF BUCKQUOY

perhaps of an earlier chapel. Thorfinn's Palace", com- plete with a bath-house or Farther up the slope are the sauna with an underfloor foundations of several Norse central heating system. It longhouses, which are up to seems more likely that his 20m long as well as smaller residence was on the outhouses and various other Mainland side, perhaps walls. Some of these may under the site of the present well have been byres, but Palace. presumably most cattle would have been kept on the The earlier levels contained Mainland. These buildings both Norse and Pictish arte- The Knowe of Buckquoy may possibly be a chambered cairn date from the 9th to the 11th facts and lie beneath the By analogy they may thus be Point of Buckquoy (ON centuries, but some were later structures now seen. the Bishop's residence in Bygg-kvi, Bere Field, constructed on top of earlier The first Norse buildings Birsay. The top part of what HY247284) This headland houses. also seem to be better built may be a Viking slipway for is being steadily eroded by than the later ones, but since hauling boats lies at the edge the sea to reveal rock strata There are further ruins of no detailed report exists, it is of the cliff. This has been which demonstrate the Norse houses near the cliffs hard to understand the considerably eroded in the effects of variation in the St Peter’s Kirk and surrounding structures from the entrance to the site to the northeast of the main sequence of the site. To the 20th century, clearly showing level of Lake Orcadie during site which mostly date from north of the church are ruins inscribed trumpet-pattern has taken place and thus how quickly this process can Devonian times when the the 10th century. On the east which are very similar to the spiral. Together with the many structures may have occur. This structure has Sandwick Fish Beds were side of the church lie exten- ruins of the Bishop's Palace impressive symbol stone, been destroyed. In addition also been interpreted as a formed. The Knowe of sive domestic buildings, part at Gardar in Greenland. the artefacts suggest that several excavations have grand entrance to the monas- Buckquoy contains wall- of which may be "Earl skilled Pictish craftsmen been done over the years and tic site. faces, peat-ash and burnt were at work on the Brough not published, further con- m u

for several centuries before fusing interpretation of the e s u

the Vikings arrived. site. The small Romanesque M y

church dates from the early e n

th k Most of the structures visi- 12 century and is surround- r ble on the Brough today are ed by the remains of other O Viking and date from 9th to buildings, which have been the 13th centuries when this interpreted as being monas- Bone spoon from Buckquoy was the site of an important tic. Foundations and m u e

Norse settlement. walling beneath this church s u

Considerable coastal erosion may be of Pictish origin, M y e n

k Rock strata on Point of Buckquoy Large Norse house on the slope above the kirkyard St Peter’s Kirk from the east end looking down the nave from the apse r O Paved area with drains leading to Norse slipway The sauna or bath-house with underfloor heating

Pictish-style comb from Buckquoy

Carved pin from Buckquoy m u e s u M y e n k r O

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WEST MAINLAND - BIRSAY THE PALACE VILLAGE

Pictish house at Gurness, Christchurch Controversy while the later, more rectan- exists over the site of Earl gular ones were early Norse. Thorfinn's Christchurch. Excavations at Beachview, While it may be the small Saevar Howe (HY247270) church on the Brough, and near St Magnus Church which is dedicated to St have revealed more Pictish Peter, local tradition sug- and Norse burials, buildings gests that it was in Birsay and artefacts as well as evi- Village, possibly on the dence of Neolithic habita- same site as today's church, tion, further emphasising the St Magnus. importance of the area over a long period. This church was built in Aerial view of the Earl’s Palace, built in the 1500s for Robert Stewart Boardhouse Mill interior 1760, but replaced a cruci- animal bones, but it has not whorl with an Ogam inscrip- The Earl's Palace form church built in 1664. Thorfinn might have been and is said to go down to the been fully excavated. It may tion, a white stone with (HY247278), built by the In turn the latter most proba- somewhere in the vicinity. Loch of Boardhouse for a well be a small stalled cairn. brown spots, which may notorious Earl Robert bly was a replacement or The church is maintained by drink every Hogmanay. One originally have been red (a Stewart in the late 16th centu- refurbishment of an earlier the St Magnus Church local worthy who went to Along the tops of the banks magic stone?), pins and ry, though now a gaunt ruin, church. During recent Birsay Trust and the key can investigate the treasure said on the south side stonework combs. was described in 1633 as "a repairs, evidence of a previ- be obtained from the shop. to lie under the stone was and midden can be seen sumptuous and stately ous structure was found in crushed when it returned which is slowly being erod- The Ogam inscription was dwelling". Consisting of the foundations and the sug- Neolithic No chambered with him still in the hole, ed away. Several Pictish and originally assumed to be in four wings around a court- gestion is that the 11th centu- cairns have so far been exca- and is said to still be there. Norse houses have been Irish and to read (anticlock- yard, with three towers, the ry church where St Magnus’ vated in Birsay, although excavated here, which date wise) “BENDDACTANIML, building was of two storeys, was first interred may have there are numerous “tumuli” th from the 7 century a Blessing on the soul of L”, except for one lower tower. been in this area. which could contain one. onwards. but an alternative reading Many gun-loops are evident The Standing Stone of (clockwise) yields and there is a well in the A stone built into the wall of Quoybune stands in a field Both Pictish and Norse arte- “AVSALAQETMIQ, Asa courtyard. A 17th century a house adjoining the grave- near the Community Hall, facts were found there, made me” in . drawing shows an armorial yard fits with one of the lin- S which has been taken as evi- M panel with the date 1574 and tels of the church to read H A

dence that the Norse take- The houses were revealed in C

“REO” for Robert Earl of “Mons Bellus”, the name of R over was a continuum rather the face of the banks by a Orkney. the Bishop's residence. This than a sudden event. The storm and the earlier ones lintel forms the bottom part finds included a spindle resembled the figure of 8 of a 13th century lancet win- St Magnus Kirk and graveyard Spindle whorl with Ogam inscription dow from an older church. m

u This tantalising piece of evi- e s

u dence suggests that the orig- M Oxtro Broch excavator’s plan y inal Bishop’s Palace built by

e Standing Stone of Quoybune n k r The Earl’s Palace was very ruinous by 1900 The Palace Village in about 1900 O

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WEST MAINLAND - BIRSAY WEST MAINLAND - BIRSAY

until the early 1960s. This type of house had no chim- ney. Instead there was a fire-back in the middle of the room, and a hole in the roof, or liora (ON ljos, light), to let the smoke out, and the light in, while a skylin board (ON skyla, shelter) helped to remove the smoke. “Neuk” beds Skipi Geo from the whalebone, which was erected about 1876 from a large beached cetacean built into the walls were a Birsay links with Saevar Howe on the right common feature on old Brochs Compared to most Pictish Eagle symbol, were ing order in Orkney. The ine some of the large boul- Orkney houses. There is an of Orkney, Birsay seems to found. Sadly today all there last in a long series of mills ders on the Brough side. interesting collection of have very few brochs. The is left to see is a circular pile on this site was built in farm machinery, domestic Broch of Oxtro is the only of stones in a field. 1873, the power source is Skipi Geo Apart from the artefacts, a restored such visible site in the the outflow of Boardhouse Brough itself, there are sev- Victorian garden, sheep and parish. It was cleared out in Barony Mills Birsay is Loch. Beremeal continues eral very pleasant walks in poultry. 1863 to reveal a complex often described as the to be made here from the tra- the area. These include the site, where the disused broch "Garden of Orkney", and has ditional four-rowed barley, path from the Point of Walks, cliffs and beaches was reused as a burial site, long been famous for its oats which is still grown in Buckquoy (HY243283), to The shore around Birsay probably Pictish. Several and barley. Boardhouse Orkney and was previously the whalebone at Skipi Geo Bay is very interesting. The short cists, one of which Mill (HY255274) is the only used to make malt for (HY248284), which was rock pools at low tide are contained a stone with a large watermill still in work- Highland Park whisky. erected about 1876. Pupils full of marine life, with from School many invertebrates and The waterwheel is 4m in restored the fishermen's hut species of seaweed. Kirbuster Farm Museum neuk bed diameter and turns at 12rpm. at the head of the geo. Skipi “Groatie Buckies” (Cowrie Geo. There are many caves It uses about 25,000 litres of Geo is dramatic on a rough shells, so-called because in this exposed coast. water per hour at full load. day, while in clear weather they are common at John Milling is done in winter, there is a panoramic view to o'Groats) may be found by Birsay Links South from when water supplies are the Brough, and the sharp-sighted in the The Palace the Birsay Links plentiful. The mill is open to . Further east along rough shell sand, along with become a carpet of colourful visitors from May to the shore Whitaloo Point has many other types of shell wildflowers in summer. At September and is run by a dramatic monoclinal fold deposited by the rough seas the Point of Snusan Birsay Heritage Trust. Tours in the rocks and overlooks of winter. Those interested (HY245274) there are include demonstrations of the long narrow Langalebe Boardhouse Mill showing lade and waterwheel in fossil plants should exam- remains of a 19th century the machinery in operation is an interesting jumble of buildings and beremeal can be pur- Bell found at Saevar Howe “Spoil from the Deep” at Buckquoy by Tom Kent chased from the shop.

Kirbuster Farm Museum The old farm at Kirbuster (HY283255) is part of the Orkney Museum Service, and is well worth a visit to see the last surviving Orkney version of a "fire- house", lived in from 1732

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WEST MAINLAND - BIRSAY MARWICK AND MARWICK HEAD

a Peregrine, rear their young which he had served so on the ledges. The senses of faithfully nearest to the smell and hearing will be place where he died on duty. well stimulated! The cliff- He and his staff perished tops are carpeted with Thrift, along with the officers and Sea Campion, Sea Plantain nearly all the men of HMS and other wild flowers. Hampshire on 5th June, Many of the rocks have 1916” spectacular lichen growths. World War II Radar was a Kitchener Memorial The key part of the defences and Marwick cliffs are topped by there was a Chain Home the imposing Kitchener Low radar station on the Aerial view of Birsay with Twatt Airfield, the Loch of Isbister and the Loons Memorial, erected after the North Side (HY274290) of Volunteers’ battery. Mount Other finds may have been First World War to com- Birsay, the remains of which Twatt Airfield is between Two decoy airfields were Misery has never been prop- Neolithic. memorate Lord Kitchener can still be seen on the hill to the Loch of Isbister and the also built in Birsay, at erly investigated, but some and the crew of HMS the east of the Brough of Loch of Banks. The four Deasbreck and at the Burn “crude stone implements” There is a good view of the Hampshire (11,000tons), Birsay. This was one of sev- 90ft wide runways, and four o’Grid. In the event none of were found. While the Brough and Birsay Bay from which was sunk off here on eral remote stations serving dispersal areas around the these were attacked by the mound may well be natural, the Point of Garson 5 June 1916 with the loss of the main site at Netherbutton perimeter can still be seen as enemy, but in December its name suggests otherwise (HY243268). The path con- all but 12 of her company. in Holm. It supplied reports can revetments for the 1942 the Army shelled and as all other “Maesry” names tinues along the cliffs all the Kitchener, the Minister of on low-flying aircraft and on hangars. Today a number of destroyed the Deasbreck in Orkney refer to cham- way to Marwick Head and War, was on his way to shipping. Apparently for buildings remain, including “buildings” during exercis- bered cairns. beyond to the Bay of Skaill. Russia to confer with the most of the war the radar the control tower and opera- es. Twatt continued in care The walk from Birsay to Czar's government. A few equipment was much better tions block, the cinema and maintenance until 1957. Saevar Howe (ON Saevar- is a marvellous years ago a salvage ship lift- housed than its operators. foyer and squash court. During the 1970s the mili- haugr, Sea Mound) is a large experience for the fit. ed some artefacts from tary considered a major base mound near the shore and Marwick Head (HY225252, sunken cruiser. After some Wartime aerial view of Twatt Airfield - “HMS Tern” appears to be a multi-period 87m) is one of three Orkney dispute most have ended up site with Pictish buildings bird-cliffs which are RSPB at the museum, while overlain by early Norse ones reserves. A visit here in a small gun is mounted and on top a later Christian early summer is unforget- below Marwick Head. The Norse long-cist cemetery. In table. Many thousands of divers confirmed that the 1862 a fine small bell was Guillemots, Razorbills, ship was most likely sunk by found in a small stone set- Kittiwakes and Fulmars, as mines, laid by the German ting in what is now thought well as a few Rock Doves, submarine, U75. to be a late Norse context. Puffins, and if you are lucky, Boiler from wrecked ship at Marwick HMS Hampshire The Memorial was unveiled in July 1926 by General Kitchener and staff leaving “Iron Duke” Lord Horne with a salute by HMS Royal Sovereign. It was paid for by money raised by the people of Orkney and has the inscrip- tion, “This tower was raised by the people of Orkney in memory of Field Marshall Earl Kitchener of Khartoum on that corner of his country

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RSPB RESERVES TO WEST MAINLAND - BIRSAY

parts of the Birsay and Evie Hill. There is good pedestri- BIRSAY ATTRACTIONS an access by peat-roads and Brough of Birsay keen birdwatchers will, in Earl’s Palace particular, be likely to see St Magnus Kirk Hen Harriers, Merlin, Short- Birsay Bay eared Owls and other moor- Birsay Links land species. Great care Barony Mills should be taken to avoid dis- Oxtro Broch turbance during the breeding Standing Stone of Quoybune season. A good viewing Skipi Geo point is from the layby near Fishermen’s sheds at Sand Geo, a short walk south of Marwick Yellow Bird Gallery the farm of Howally here, and in the 1980s there south to the Bay of Skaill Costa Head & Hill (HY308245). A path runs was talk of the oil industry along low grassy cliffs is Aerial view of Costa Head and the Loch of Swannay Loch of Boardhouse into the Durkadale part of using the former base, but easy going. This is another Loch of Hundland the Reserve from a car park during the breeding season stack nearby, the Standard both came to nothing. good place for Puffins, while Loch of Swannay (HY295252) near the south being at the southwest end (HY300303), stands sentinel in summer the wild flowers RSPB Birsay Moors end of the Loch of of the Loch of Hundland ti Sound. Marwick Bay (ON Tjorn- and lichens form a carpet of Marwick Head Hundland. (HY293252), where Pintail Quaintly-named Inyama vik, Tarn Bay) has a large colour. A boiler is all that can sometimes be seen. Hellia is another large geo Kitchener Memorial tidal lagoon, or choin, at low remains of a 19th century RSPB Marwick Head Another RSPB Reserve is at further west. Puffins may be tide. There are restored fish- ship wreck. RSPB The Loons the Loons and Loch of Costa Head Also for the seen in the breeding season. ermen's' huts and boat Sandgeo Banks (ON Lon, meadow more energetic are the dra- Ravens and perhaps a nousts at Sand Geo The major RSPB Birsay Outshore Point flat near water HY245241), matic cliffs at Costa Head Peregrine or two frequent (HY228235) and the walk Moors Reserve covers large Cruaday Quarry where a hide offers excellent (HY310302, 125m). A track the cliffs. On the northeast Vestrafiold opportunities to see a variety leads to the top of Costa Hill slope a broch overlooks Twatt Airfield of species. The Loons is a (151m) from where there is . It is shel- Loch of Banks large expanse of marsh with an excellent view to the tered by the cliff and is in a Kirbuster Farm Museum areas of water and much North Isles and Evie. The very isolated position, but it remains of a 1950s experi- is hidden from vessels cover for breeding and visit- Swannay. All three lochs mental aerogenerator lie approaching from the west. ing wildfowl and waders. offer good angling, near the top of the hill. Access is not allowed, but Swannay being a favourite Trout Fishing Birsay is good views can be had from of many local fishermen and The cliff features here are on well known for its excellent the hide and several vantage noted for its large fish. a grand scale. Ramna Geo is Brown Trout, which may be points on the public road. Boats are available for hire. This is one of the few places a great steep-sided cleft in fished in the Lochs of The Loons from the hide where the rare Pintail is reg- the cliffs, while the rock Boardhouse, Hundland and Marwick Head and the Choin from the south side of the bay ularly seen close-up.

Breeding waterfowl and yellow bird gallery waders may be observed on bird and orkney landscapes all three Birsay lochs, as well as migrants and winter- ing species. Boardhouse is host to many Pochard in john thompson winter, while Goldeneye seem to prefer Swannay. lesley murdoch There are several good car chocolate cottage, birsay viewpoints, perhaps the best Tel 01856 721360

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