Loch Eil p.135 N Muck 50’ Fort William p.134 Point of Loch p.146 Corran Narrows p.133 8. Loch 40’ Ardmore and Leven Point Loch p.130 Arinagour p.136 p.174 Linnhe 7. and 10. Coll and p.173 Tobermory p.128 Loch Linnhe Caliach p.143 p.172 rn Pt e p.114 rv Loch o 4 S M 2 ou Aline nd f .1 Loch p.141 o p of Treshnish M n Lismore Creran u n Tiree Salen ll y 30’ Isles p. L p.122 p.178 p.140 138 Passage of p.159 Loch Loch Tiree na Keal Etive 9. West Coast p.118 MULL Loch of Mull p.150 Spelve of p.107 Loch Lorn Scridain 6. 20’ p.180 p.96 p.186 5. Loch Crinan to the Firth of Lorn p.70

Garvellachs Loch Melfort p.89 p.98 Ardfern p.75

10’ 11. Ross of Mull p.1 80 Loch Craignish p.74 Crinan Canal p.52 Crinan p.72 Oronsay JURA 56˚ p.51 Loch Loch Ardrishaig 3. West coasts of Tarbert Sween Lower p.86 Sound p.64 Loch and Jura; Colonsay of Jura Fyne p.42 p.61

Sound of Islay 50’ Isle y p.40 4. Sound of a l ISLAY of s Jura p.54 I

f Bute o West Loch

s Tarbert n n p.26 i h R 40’ p.22 Firth of Clyde Port ARRAN Ellen p.30 2. Southeast Islay and 0 10 20 30 p.28 30’ Kilbrannan Sound Nautical Miles

Campbeltow n p.18

20’ Mull of Kintyre

Rathlin I Sanda 1. Mull of Kintyre to Northern West Loch Tarbert North p.16 Channel 10’ 7˚ 50’ Portrush 30’ 20’ 10’ 6˚ 50’ 40’ 30’ 20’ 10’ 5˚ Contents

Preface 2 Introduction 4 General introduction 4 Charts 5 Maps 6 Tides 6 Weather and forecasting 6 Anchorages, mooring and berthing 8 Equipment 11 Chartering and instruction 11 Conservation 11 Services and supplies 12 Communications 12 Travel 12 Emergencies 13 Notes on sailing directions and plans 13 Principal chart symbols 15

1 Mull of Kintyre to West Loch Tarbert 16 2 Southeast Islay and Sound of Islay 28 3 West coasts of Islay and Jura; Colonsay 42 4 54 5 Loch Crinan to the Firth of Lorn 70 6 Firth of Lorn 96 7 Loch Etive and Loch Linnhe 114 8 Sound of Mull and Loch Sunart 136 9 West coast of Mull 150 10 Coll and Tiree 172 11 Ross of Mull 180

Appendix 196 Index 206 2. Southeast Islay and Sound of Islay

5 Claggin 10 Bay

p.36 Trudernish Point

Ardmore Point

Eilean a’Chuirn Fl(3)18s 26m8M Ardmore Islands

Aird Imersay p.34

p.32 Ardbeg p.30 Laphroaig

10 Carraig Fhada Fl.WRG.3s8/6M

10

YBB N VQ(3)5s (10) 10

0 1 2 3 4 5 epD st inh Metesr Miles

37 Otter Rock

Q(6)+LFl.15s SOUTHEAST ISLAY YB

Southeast coast of Islay The Ardmore Isles and the passage inshore SThe south east of Islay is rich in history – and of them are designated as a Special Area of Admiralty Chart Conservation (see p.11) 2168 distil leries. at the entrance to Lagavulin Bay was the headquarters of the There is no published chart of the area at a Admiralty Leisure Folio larger scale than 2168 (1:75,000), but 5611.5 Lords of the Isles after the Norsemen were Imray Chart defeated at the Battle of Largs in 1263, and the Ordnance Survey Explorer map (scale C64 1:25,000) No.352 Islay South provides useful Ordnance Survey finest carved medieval stone cross in is at Kildalton Chapel, near Port Mor and Glas detail of this part of the coast. However, much 60 of this section of the Islay coast has been Cruising Scotland Uig, north of Ardmore. Antares Charts pp.65, 68-69 The inner passages between Ardmore and recently surveyed by and the Port Ellen have been used by local fishermen use of these will enable more of the coast to be and traders for centuries, but have only been explored than can be described in these Directions brought to the notice of yachtsmen , not to mention the possibility of comparatively recently by Michael Gilkes. taking one or two short cuts.

28 CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 2. Southeast Islay and Sound of Islay

Tides There are strong tidal streams nearby, in particular at and the Rhinns of Islay, at the Mull of Kintyre, and in the Sound of Islay. At Otter Rock the streams run east and west. The west-going stream begins about +0530 Oban (HW Dover) and the east- going stream begins about –0110 Oban (+0610 Dover). Off Texa Island, tidal streams split, one stream running towards Ardmore, the other towards Rubha nan Leacan at the southeast point of the Oa beginning at about +0530 Oban (HW Dover), and running from those points towards Texa beginning about –0030 Oban (–0600 Dover). Dangers and marks Dangers and marks related to an extended coastal passage are described in sequence from The Oa to Ardmore. Those related to individual anchorages and inshore passages are described separately. The Oa , the south point of Islay, which rises to 200 metres, has a tall stone monument at Mull Edward Mason of Oa, its southwest point. Otter Rock , with a least depth of 3·7 metres, 3 Ardmore Point is the most easterly point of Islay. The visitors’ pontoons at miles south of Texa, is marked by a south Eilean a’Chuirn, nearly a mile south of Ardmore Port Ellen (p.31) cardinal light buoy. and 5 miles northeast of Texa, is the most Texa Island is 2 miles east of Port Ellen. Tarr easterly of the Ardmore Islands. Eilean a’Chuirn Sgeir, a detached rock 10 metres high, lies 6 light beacon is an inconspicuous tower. cables south of Texa and there are other rocks The Ardmore Islands run northeast from between Tarr Sgeir and Texa. Ceann nan Sgeirean, 1 mile northeast of Aird 3 1 Iomallach , 2·5 metres high, 1 ⁄4 miles ENE of Imersay, for 1 ⁄2 miles, and drying rocks lie up the northeast end of Texa and a mile south of to 3 cables southeast of Ceann nan Sgeirean. Aird Imersay lies at the extremity of an area of rocks south and southwest of Aird Imersay. A detached shoal patch of rock lies southwest of Iomallach and Ruadh Mor, 4 cables southwest Port Ellen from seaward of Iomallach has a depth of only 2·1 metres. (pp.30-31)

Martin Lawrence

CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 29 Kintyre to Ardnamurchan

Distillery

ISLAY 0 5 Cables

12 Port Ellen 03

10 Radio Masts 5 (103) 10 Marina

Q.R RoRo Kilnaughton Bn 2F.G Bay (vert) Q.G G The Ard

Eilean nan (5) Caorach .6 (3) 10 Fl.WRG.3s19m8·6M 37 Carraig Fhada LtHo YBB Q(3)10s Sgeir 4 6 Thraghaidh 5 The Big 10 4 4 (09) Wheel Reef 9 58

4 5 34 Q.G 8 G 5 27 R 5 a McFayden’s 2 10 d i 82 Reef o 85 m a st 7 s in l in 7 Am Plodan (1) e 85 6 w i th N 5 L H The Gander (5) 3 1 0 ˚ a p p ro x 7 10 6 VQ(3)5s Otter Gander 26 YBB epD sht in etM esr

34 PORT ELLEN Port Ellen conical buoy which should be left to starboard. PORT ELLEN From the southwest, identify the E cardinal Admiralty Chart This is the main ferry terminal and harbour on Islay. Recently installed berthing facilities have buoy marking the Otter Gander and steer to 2476, 2168 leave this close to port before following the Admiralty Leisure Folio made it a popular alternative to Gigha as an 5611.27B arrival and departure point for Northern transit given above leading to the outer G buoy. Imray Chart Ireland or the Mull of Kintyre. From this buoy steer north until on a line C64 between the lighthouse and the pierhead (the Ordnance Survey Tides inner E cardinal buoy marks a shoal with 3.7m 60 Cruising Scotland Constant –0530 Oban (+0130 Dover) at springs, and –0050 p.68 Oban (+0610 Dover) at neaps. Height in metres N Local boats MHWS MHWN MTL MLWN MLWS only 0·9 0·8 0·6 0·5 0·3 2 Directions 2 The Otter Rock (LD 3.7) S cardinal buoy lies 3 3 G 1 4 ⁄2 miles southeast of the entrance to Port Ellen 6) (200 RoRo 3m and is a good landfall mark if coming from the to G berth ged G red G Mull of Kintyre. D G G Approaching from the east pass south of Tarr 2F.G Drying (vert) moorings Sgeir (10), 6 cables south of Texa and head G towards Carraig Fhada lighthouse. When this is in line with the prominent radio masts on the PORT ELLEN MARINA hill above, bearing 310°, it will lead to a G PORT ELLEN MARINA 30 CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 2. Southeast Islay and Sound of Islay

Martin Lawrence Port Ellen approach from the southeast over it and yachts can pass either side of it). much shallower. Visiting yachts up to 13m can Turn to starboard to steer approximately 60° be accommodated at the outer pontoons. Dues and approach the pierhead on that bearing. are collected by volunteer supervisors. Hold close to the southeast side of the pier Kilnaughton Bay on the west, north of Carraig before entering the dredged channel to the Fhada, affords shelter in westerlies and some marina, which is marked by small green protection from southerly swell. starboard buoys. Shallow areas lie very close to Older, uncorrected, charts may show an the south of the buoys, and to the east of the anchor symbol southwest of the pier but on three red buoys which mark the anchors for the no account should yachts anchor in this ground chains to the east of the pontoons. position, or anywhere in the approach to the Lights pier, as this could restrict ferry movements. Otter Rock S cardinal buoy Q (6) + L Fl.15s The visitors’ moorings off the distillery have Otter Gander E Cardinal buoy VQ(3)10s now been removed. Carraig Fhada LtHo Fl.WRG 3s 19m 8-6M Outer buoy G conical buoy QG Supplies Inner buoy E Cardinal buoy Q(3)10s Marina berths serviced with water and Beacon 1 cable west of pier Q.R. electricity. Toilets, showers and washing Buoy south of pierhead G conical buoy Q.G. machine are a short walk from the marina (ask Anchorage and berthing for directions). Diesel available by hose from Port Ellen from the south; A small, self-service, marina with 24 pontoon mobile bowser at the quay, (phone Clear Water Marine ✆01496 300301). Shops, Post Office, the finger pontoons have berths has been positioned in an area dredged been removed for to 3·0m lying just beyond the knuckle of the tel, hotels and restaurant, Calor Gas. Car hire dredging and the pier. The depth is less than 2m at the finger and distillery visits. photograph was taken pontoons on the inner side. The northern range before the northern of pontoons is reserved for local boats and is pontoon was added

Martin Lawrence

CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 31 Kintyre to Ardnamurchan

Distillery Lagavulin (distillery ) Dunyvaig Castle V Sgeir Liath Gille na Fead ISLAY See opposite Laphroaig See plan p.34 (distillery) 10

5 Loch Laphroaig Sgeirean Dubh Rubh’ a’ a Phuill Bhain Chuirn Sgeirean Dubha (4) 2 5 28 8 5 Sgeir Thraghaidh 10 Sgeir in Mhoireig ile 3 E n a Eilean nan as ol Caorach 5 Ca

10 10 The Big Chapel 34 Wheel Reef 10 5 5 10 TEXA 10 Eilean na Nighinn

10

Sgeirean Poll 10 10 a’ Chaca An Sgonnag N Cam Sgeir

10 epDthsin etres M 10

0 5 Cables Tarr Sgeir (10)

CAOLAS AN EILEIN Port Ellen to Loch an t-Sailean (LD 3·4), leaving Sgeir Thraghaidh (drying 0·9) CAOLAS AN EILEANIf heading east it is usual to leave Port Ellen by and Macfayden’s Reef (LD 2·7) to port. From Admiralty Chart here a course of 070° will lead to Caolas an 2476, 2168 re-tracing the course described for entry and steering to pass south of Tarr Sgeir and thence Eilein between Texa and Islay. Take care not Admiralty Leisure Folio to be carried off this course by the tide as 5611.27B, 5 northwards to the Sounds of Islay or Jura. Imray Chart However, if planning to visit any of the some of the above rocks, and several near C64 Texa, are within a cable of it. Ordnance Survey distilleries on this stretch of coast, some distance will be saved by passing through Caolas an Eilein is 4 cables wide but rocks 60 above and below water lie on the Islay side so Cruising Scotland Caolas an Eilein, between Texa and Islay. pp.68-69 Chart 2476, which shows Port Ellen and the keep about a cable off the Texa shore. Note also that a submerged rock with less than 2m west end of Texa to a scale of 1:15,000, is 1 1 useful for the first part of this passage, lies 1 ⁄2 cables due west of Texa and about 1 ⁄2 especially if aiming to visit Laphroaig. cables south of the above course. At the east end of Caolas an Eilein continue ENE until Directions Lagavulin bears due north, then head Leave Port Ellen on the track described for northeast towards Loch an t-Sailean or pick entry (p.30) until a cable southeast of the outer up the entrance bearing of 333° if heading for G conical buoy. Then steer due east towards Lagavulin. There is a temporary anchorage Texa for a mile until past The Big Wheel Reef off the stone jetty on Texa.

32 CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 2. Southeast Islay and Sound of Islay

0 1 2 Cables the east should not be attempted without Chart 2476 and only then with great care because of several unmarked sunken rocks. Distillery Rubha Directions Buidhe 08 On the passage between Port Ellen and Caolas 14 an Eilein the distillery will be clearly seen about 0 18 9 44 1 5 1 ⁄2 miles to the northeast. Follow the course described opposite but when the middle point N 8 Discharge of Eilean nan Caorach bears due north alter 2 pipe course to port on to 055°, heading for the right Rubh’ a’ hand building on which the name Chuirn Sgeirean ‘LAPHROAIG’ is painted. Dubha (4) After about half a mile, identify the small Depths in Metres group of above-water rocks, Sgeir Thraghaidh (not to be confused with the drying rock of the 5 35 8 62 same name off Port Ellen and recently passed to Sgeir port) and note that submerged rocks extend up Thraghaidh 1 to 1 ⁄2 cables southwest of it. LOCH LAPHROAIG Continue on 055° and enter Loch Laphroaig leaving the string of islets, Sgeirean Dubha (4), Loch Laphroaig about 30m to starboard. Anchor in 4·5m when Loch Laphroaig is less sheltered than Lagavulin the innermost islet (6) bears due south, noting and Bay, which is just over a mile further north, but avoiding the discharge pipe shown on the plan. the entrance is deeper and less constricted. The There is much kelp in the loch but clear patches white painted distillery buildings are conspicuous exist near, and to the east of, the anchor symbol. in the approach from the southwest. Entry from

Loch Laphroaig and the distillery from the southwest. Sgeir Thraghaidh to the lower right

Lagavulin Bay from the southeast. The red Martin Lawrence chimney of the distillery can be seen in front of of the large building on the left

Martin Lawrence

CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 33 Kintyre to Ardnamurchan

N Aird Imersay Loch an t-Sailean

ISLAY Pier Depths in Metres Ardbeg Sgeir Eilean Dubh Imersay Distillery V

Sgeir Dubh See plan below Sgeirean Lagavulin Rhuadha Dunyvaig V

Islay Marine 5 Centre

C h i m n 5 e y

b e 5 a r i n 5 g

3 3 3 3 5 ˚ Iomallach (2.5) 4 3

Carraig Fhada open N of Texa 270˚ 34

0 5 10 Ruadh Mor ( 2 ) Texa 46. 1 Cables LAGAVULIN & ARDBEG LAGAVULIN ANDL ARDBEGagavulin Bay Tides From the southeast two distilleries will be seen, As Port Ellen: Admiralty Chart 1 Constant –0530 Oban (+0130 Dover) at springs, 2168 Lagavulin, and Ardbeg which is ⁄4 mile further and –0050 Oban (+0610 Dover) at neaps. Admiralty Leisure Folio northeast, both of which have their names 5611.5 conspicuously painted on the wall. Height in metres Imray Chart Lagavulin Bay is small and shallow and the MHWS MHWN MTL MLWN MLWS C64 0·9 0·8 0·6 0·5 0·3 Ordnance Survey entrance, marked by substantial port and 60 starboard beacons, is shallower still, having Directions Cruising Scotland only 2·1 m in it plus a number of boulders with From the east or northeast, identify Texa Island pp.68-69 even less and much kelp. However, with care, and Iomallach (2·5 m high). Pass a cable south yachts of moderate draught should have no of Iomallach to avoid an unmarked rock (2m) difficulty in feeling their way slowly in. southwest of it. From a point close to Iomallach, steer with the north point of Texa Island in line with Carraig Fhada lighthouse at N Chy Lagavulin Port Ellen. This course takes you over a rock Distillery Buildings with a depth of 3·4 metres. Identify the distillery and when the conspicuous red 1 3 chimney bears 333°, alter course to starboard

V and steer that course towards the entrance. V Depths in Metres 07 From the southwest pass south of Tarr Sgeir 24 Dunyvaig (10) and keep at least two cables off the east 2 06 Castle 5 end of Texa. Steer northeast until picking up 18 the bearing of 333° on the red chimney before 12 R approaching the entrance on that bearing. G 5 From the southeast avoid Ruadh Mor 3 3 1 Gille na 3 (LD 2·1), 3 ⁄2 cables southwest of Iomallach, by ˚

Fead o 85 n keeping towards Texa before picking up and

c h i following the 333° bearing above. m n 0 1 e Approaching the entrance identify the y prominent red and green beacons and leave the Cables LAGAVULIN BAY above water rock due south of them about 20m LAGAVULIN BAY

34 CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 2. Southeast Islay and Sound of Islay to port. Aim to cross a line between the two beacons at its midpoint, at an angle of less than 45°. Then pass 10-12 metres from the red inner (west) beacon to avoid boulders on the starboard side. When this beacon is abeam alter slightly to port to steer with the distillery pier 10° on the starboard bow. Do not stray to starboard of this line as the northeast part of the bay is very shoal. Anchorage Anchor in 3m, mud, in the middle of the pool just south of the visitors’ moorings. Subject to swell. Two visitors’ moorings are provided by Islay Marine Centre (pay at chandlery). Shoal patches have been reported in the approach to the visitors moorings. Facilities The distillery is open to visitors on weekdays. Sara Mason Showers and toilets at Islay Marine Centre, on the southwest side of the bay, which also past the to the islet, another Looking northwest into provides chandlery, slipping, storage, grp and Sgeir Dubh, at the head of the loch. Lagavulin Bay from a engine repairs, diesel and water (cans). Land at Using the Antares chart it is possible, in position slightly east of dinghy pontoon. calm conditions, to take a short cut through the leading line the skerries to the south of Eilean Imersay but Loch an t-Sailean (Ardbeg) no visual pilotage directions for this passage The route into Loch an t-Sailean passes yet a can be given. further distillery, Ardbeg, where three visitors’ moorings are located off the buildings (see Anchorage photo p.14). Better shelter can be found near Anchor northwest of Sgeir Dubh in 3m. The the head of the loch. bottom is sand with some rock and weed but good holding can be found and it is well Directions sheltered by the numerous skerries which break Approach as for Lagavulin and then, noting the up any swell. It is possible to lie alongside unmarked, underwater, rocks off Dunyvaig alongside the stone pier (see photo p.10) beyond Loch an t-Sailean at Ardbeg; Sgeir na Castle, follow a course northeastwards between the distillery but the stonework is rough. 1 Maodail lies at the lower 1 ⁄2 and 2 cables from the shore which clears all Facilities right with Sgeiran dangers. Leave the islet, Sgeir Dubh, lying a Ruadha above. Sgeir cable off Ardbeg Distillery to port and Sgeirean The Ardbeg distillery has a visitor centre with a Dubh and the shallow Rhuadha, a small group of three above-water restaurant and provides three visitors’ moorings. spit are immediately rocks to starboard. Thereafter the way is clear below the distillery

Martin Lawrence

CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 35 Kintyre to Ardnamurchan

Aros Bay 0 5 10 6 N 3 5 8 Cables 3

02

p.39 Depths in Metres ISLAY

Glas Uig

PLOD SGEIREAN

18

5 Port Mor Kildalton Ardmore Chapel Point 32

79

(0 4) 34 (1 5)(1 5) 5 Cairn 11 (1 1) 69 5 (1 ) 4 5 5 3 (0 ) 3 2 5 4 0 ° (3) 61 See inset Caolas Port na Lice 39 21

Eilean 84 Tripod Craobhach 10 5 Beacon 5

n d a lo e (1 ) P ir 8 e g (1 ) Eilean S 9 a’Chuirn (1 6) 5 Fl(3)18s Cairn 1 26m8M 7

3 0 2 ˚ + 0 - ° 3 5

0

˚

The Cnoc Tripod beacon Bay (06)

5

10

Ardmore Is (Loch Kildalton Eilean a’Chnuic) Bhride + Ceann nan Bay Sgeirean 10 Garbhsgeir Beg

3 1 6 ˚ 10 Kildalton Castle (ruin)

ARDMORE ISLANDS 3ARDMORE6 CCC Sail iISLANDSng Directions and Anchorages 2. Southeast Islay and Sound of Islay

Ardmore Islands in the middle of the bay north of the beacon, but its west side should be cleared by keeping Admiralty Chart These offlying islands lie about a mile south of 2168 Ardmore Point, the eastern extremity of Islay, the tripod beacon astern in line with the east Admiralty Leisure Folio point of Eilean Bhride, bearing about 170°. 5611.5 and give protection to several good anchorages. Imray Chart The passage inshore of them requires care as Steer on this line to within a cable of the skerries at Plod Sgeirean and then turn NNE to C64 some of the features are not easy to distinguish Ordnance Survey and it should only be attempted for the first head for the narrow channel leading out of the 60 time in clear, quiet weather. It is also easier to pool to the north. Cruising Scotland p.69 make it from the north to the south. Anchorages Tides Kildalton Bay (Loch a’Chnuic) Pass either side As Port Ellen: of Garbhsgeir Beg, but if on its north side not Constant –0530 Oban (+0130 Dover) at springs, more than a cable away from it to avoid a rock and –0050 Oban (+0610 Dover) at neaps. awash WSW of Garbhsgeir Mor, and head Height in metres towards Ardilistry Bay. MHWS MHWN MTL MLWN MLWS Two detached rocks lie off the southwest 0·9 0·8 0·6 0·5 0·3 shore and then a rocky islet off the promontory which separates Ardilistry Bay from Kildalton Directions Bay (Loch a’Chnuic); when this islet is almost 1 From the northeast keep ⁄2 cable from the abeam turn to port to pass southeast of it to 3 southeast side of Ardmore Point to pass inside avoid a reef extending almost ⁄4 cable northeast the line of rocks north of Eilean Craobhach and from the second detached rock (see photo p.38) three cables south of Ardmore Point. Keep in Anchor near the southwest shore, west of the the middle of the canal-like channel, passing above rock, in hard sand. The anchorage is over or near to the 3m patch, then hold to the subject to swell and if the wind goes to the south northwest side of the pool as it opens out as or east it is prudent to clear out as considerable there are several rocks with less than 2m over swell gets up. them southwest of Eilean Craobhach. Plod Sgeirean This area is very remote and When the tripod beacon north of Eilean inaccessible and teeming with wildlife; the Bhride is in line with the east point of Eilean anchorage is within a sheltered pool ringed by Bhride bearing about 170°, steer towards the skerries and islets. Enter between the islet which beacon on that line to avoid a rock awash in forms the south point of the bay and the first the centre of the pool. When about a cable skerry to the northeast, keeping rather nearer to from the beacon alter course to pass west of the northeast skerry as a drying reef extends off Ceann nan Sgeirean. To avoid drying rocks the southwest point. A white painted cairn has south of Ceann nan Sgeirean do not alter been built on the islet opposite the entrance which, course southward until Garbhsgeir Beg is in when bearing 320°, indicates the line of approach. transit with The Cnoc and do not pass north of To anchor at the north end keep heading Garbhsgeir Beg. towards the white cairn and turn to starboard From the south or southwest pass east of when closer to the islet ahead than to the skerry Iomallach, and head NNE to pass northwest of northeast of the entrance, as submerged rocks the Ardmore Islands. From the southeast bring lie west and northwest of the skerry. the detached islet Garbhsgeir Beg in line with If anchoring at the south end turn to port the conical hill Cnoc Rhaonastil (The Cnoc) when the channel opens out and anchor as far bearing 316° to pass close southwest of drying south as depth allows. rocks south of Ceann nan Sgeirean. Both anchorages have been found to be When Ceann nan Sgeirean is aft of the beam comfortable in southeast winds of F5. steer to pass northwest of the tripod beacon. There is no clear mark to avoid the rock awash

CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 37 Kintyre to Ardnamurchan

Martin Lawrence

Caolas Port na Lice, the narrow channel leading to Plod Sgeirean and the inshore passage west of the Ardmore Islands (p.37)

Kildalton Bay and Loch a’Chnuich from the west showing the approximate line of approach to the anchorage (p.37)

Martin Lawrence

38 CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 2. Southeast Islay and Sound of Islay

Anchorages north of Ardmore Point Three open bays provide occasional anchorage north of Ardmore Point. These bays are all difficult to identify from seaward, but Ardmore Point has a triangulation point (a short tapering concrete pillar) near its summit and Port Mor has a large white house at its head. Tides As Port Ellen: Constant –0530 Oban (+0130 Dover) at springs, and –0050 Oban (+0610 Dover) at neaps. Martin Lawrence Height in metres MHWS MHWN MTL MLWN MLWS Port Mor with the stone 0·9 0·8 0·6 0·5 0·3 Glas Uig is very difficult to distinguish and scarcely shows on chart 2168; it is about 3 jetty on the right and the Anchorages cables north of Port Mor. Anchor on the north track leading to the road Port Mor is immediately northwest of Ardmore side of the bay to avoid the submerged reef off to Kildalton Chapel Point. The head of the bay shoals a long way. the quay on the south side. 1 Hold to the southeast side as there is a line of is a clean open sandy bay ⁄4 mile rocks on the northwest side of the bay. The north of Ardmore Point; a pleasant place to Glas Uig showing the bottom is clean sand. spend a fine, windless day. Anchor in 3m in the submerged reef off the centre of the bay. old quay on the port side

0 1 2

N Cables 48 Ru Bhuide

12 74 Glas Uig 4 5 7

42 34 27 15 16 26 24 06 Quay Ru Lag na Tighear Depths in Metres Martin Lawrence GLAS UIG

Aros Bay with the Paps GLAS UIG of Jura beyond

Martin Lawrence

CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 39 Kintyre to Ardnamurchan

Overfalls form at the north end of the sound on the flood with a northerly wind, and at the south end of the sound Rubha a Mhail on the ebb, where it meets the ebb from the Sound of Jura. Fl(3)15s19M At Constant –0030 Oban (+0500 Dover) at springs, and – 0110 Oban (+0420 Dover) at neaps. Height in metres Sgeir At Port Askaig Traigh MHWS MHWN MTL MLWN MLWS 2·1 1·5 1·2 1·0 0·4

5 Beinn an Oir At Rubha a’Mhail 782 3·7 2·8 2·1 1·5 0·6 Note the difference in range in only 6 miles. Directions Beinn a Bunnahabhainn Chaolais At the south entrance to the sound note the Distillery 732 unmarked rock 3 cables southwest of Brosdale Island and give it a wide berth. Am Fraoch 1 Eilean, 1 ⁄2 miles west of Brosdale Island, has 1 rocks drying 1 ⁄2 cables south of it and a further

Carraigh an t-Sruith mile northwest lie the Black Rocks, the Fl.3s8m9M JURA principal danger in the sound. They are marked by a G con. buoy which from either direction is likely to appear nearer to the Islay Whitefarland Bay shore than might be expected. 5 Caol Ila Pass south and west of this buoy and Distillery thereafter giving both shores a berth of a cable Q.R will clear all dangers until 3 miles north of Port Ferry Askaig Carraig an t-Sruith where Sgeir Traigh, a mass N Carraig Mor of grassy islets and rocks extends up to half a Fl(2)WR.6s8M mile from the Jura shore. A clearing line of a conspicuous tower and the chimney on Caol Isla Distillery, north of Port Askaig, with ISLAY 5 Rubha Barr nan Gobag (cliffs 20-25m high on Depths in Metres Sound Jura) bearing 193° astern may be used. of Islay If proceeding north to Loch Tarbert, Jura, continue to give the shore between Sgeir Traigh and the entrance to the loch a good berth as it Glas Eilean is foul with off-lying rocks. 5 Anchorages See plan p.41 Black Port Askaig This village is on Islay, halfway up Rock 5 the sound, and is the port for Kintyre and Jura Fl.G.6s 5 G Am Fraoch ferries. A temporary berth alongside a well Eilean Brosdale fendered concrete quay may be available if a Island ferry is not expected though eddies close

5 inshore make the approach difficult. Check immediately on berthing that a car ferry is not 0 2 Miles due to arrive before you intend to leave. Alternatively anchor off the quay in 4 McArthur’s Head Fl(2)WR.10s11M metres, clear of the approach to the quay, but the tide runs strongly here. Facilities: Shop, PO, SOUND OF ISLAY SOUND OF ISLAY hotel, petrol, Calor Gas. Water hose on pier. Admiralty Chart Sound of Islay Whitefarland Bay A clean open bay on Jura 2481, 2168 The Sound of Islay separates Islay and Jura, opposite Caol Isla distillery, out of the main Admiralty Leisure Folio and is eleven miles long. The navigation is tidal stream. Anchor in 3m north of anchor- 5611.5, 7 straightforward, the Islay side being generally painted boulder. Holding poor in weed. Imray Chart C64 cleaner. The tide must be favourable as it runs Bunnahabhainn (Bunnahaven) Bay This bay, 1 Ordnance Survey at up to five knots in the narrows. 2 ⁄2 miles north of Port Askaig is a convenient 60 place to wait for a south-going tide. Anchor out Cruising Scotland Tides 1 of the main tide in 4m, ⁄2 cable north of the pier. pp.66, 76 Tidal streams in the Sound of Islay run at up to 5 knots with eddies inshore. Lights The north-going stream begins about +0440 Oban (–0050 McArthur’s Head lighthouse Fl(2)WR.10s39m14/11M Dover) , and the south-going stream begins about –0140 Black Rocks G con. buoy Q.G Oban (+0515 Dover). Carraig Mor light beacon Fl(2)WR.6s7m8/6M Carraig an t-Sruith light beacon Fl.3s8m9M Rubha a’Mhail lighthouse Fl(3)WR.15s45m24/21M 40 CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 2. Southeast Islay and Sound of Islay

N Cottage

JURA

11 2˚ Depths in Metres 5

Sgeir nan Sian (2) MacPhaill Rock (06)

Black Rocks Am Far Eilean Boathouse (09) Quay To south fall of Brosdale Island

5 Am Ploth

Fl.G.5s G Am Fraoch Eilean Ruin

˚

3

Sound of Islay 0

0 5 0 5 290 Cables ˚ AM FRAOCH ISLAND PASSAGE

AAMm FFRAOCHraoch Isl aISLANDnd PASSAGE Sgeir nan Sian and the cottage above the shore This is a suitable place to wait for a favourable in line with McArthur’s Head astern. tide for a passage north through the sound. The To continue passage north to avoid MacPhaill passage north of MacPhaill Rock may also be Rock and Sgeir nan Sian, keep the conspicuous used as an alternative to passing south of the boathouse at Am Far Eilean astern open of the Black Rocks to avoid a foul tide. Note the large south fall of Brosdale Island about 112°. areas of foul water around Am Fraoch Eilean To make this passage from northwest to and an unmarked rock 2 cables south of it. southeast, identify Am Far Eilean and Brosdale Island while passing Glas Eilean and reverse the Directions directions given above. From the southeast identify McArthur's Head Anchorage lighthouse and the Black Rocks buoy. Approach the buoy on a course not less than 290° until Anchor off Am Far Eilean in 4m. Bottom sand McArthur’s Head is abeam. When the boathouse and weed. behind Am Fraoch Eilean is seen, alter course to 003° and make for the rocky outcrop between Port Askaig, Sound of Islay

Martin Lawrence

CCC Sailing Directions and Anchorages 41