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THE INSIDER’S GUIDE TO STUDENT EXPERIENCING BARCELONA GUIDE! PLUS! Film & SECRET music festivals. Gaudí. Coolest CITY hairdressers. Food dictionary 2 www.timeout.com/barcelona Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide Contents 2016/2017 Catalan cuisine is delicious, but it’s not The best of always obvious what’s on your plate. See our food Barcelona dictionary for help p. 34
Features 12. The secret city BCN’s hidden bars, galleries and more. 20. Twenty great things to do Check our list of the city’s must-sees. 22. Living science Local people and places creating the future. 26. Premium space How some universities rent out their facilities. 28. Love thy neighbour We explore L’Hospitalet, the city next door. MARIA DIAS 32. Hairdressers 34. Food dictionary
Regulars 36. Shopping & Style 43. BCU University info 59. Things to Do 64. Cinema 66. Theatre & Dance 68. Music MARIA DIAS CRISTINA RECHE MARIA DIAS 72. Clubs Need a trim? Want Innovative fashion Barcelona’s reputation As well as beer, wine 76. LGBT to try babylights? designers are found as a world-class venue and cocktails, one Desperate for a across the city, and for music festivals has of the most popular 78. Art complete change of there are always new been sealed in the past tipples among 80. Books look? Barcelona is full names worth seeking decade. The big guns Barcelona locals is of hair salons and out. We showcase are Primavera Sound vermouth – not 84. Food & Drink barbershops, and we four up-and-comers and Sónar, and we least due to the 96. Getaways show you the best whose work stands compare and contrast accompanying ritual places for a cut, colour out for its quality and them to see how they of tapas, chat and 98. Top 10 and more p. 32 creativity p. 36 shape up p. 68 live music p. 84
Via Laietana, 20, 1a planta | 08003 Barcelona | T. 93 310 73 43 ([email protected]) Printer.KVQITCƁC4QUÅU Publisher Eduard Voltas | Finance manager Judit Sans | Business manager Mabel Mas | Editor-in-chief Andreu Gomila | Student Guide editor Hannah Pennell | Features & web Distribution S.A.D.E.U. editor/CTÉC,QUÅ)ÏOG\^Art director Diego Piccininno Design Laura Fabregat, Anna Mateu Mur | Picture editor Maria Dias | Writers/CTKC,WP[GPV,QUGR.CODKGU4KECTF/CTVÉP Legal deposit B13743-2014 Marta Salicrú, Eugènia Sendra | Catalan website/CPWGN2ÅTG\^Spanish website Erica Aspas | English website Jan Fleischer | Contributors/CTEGNQ#RCTKEKQ#NDGTV$CNCP\¼.CKC ISSN 2339-9872 Our cover $GNVTCP,QTFK$KCPEKQVVQ,CXKGT$N½PSWG\®UECT$TQE#FC%CUVGNNU.CWTC%QPFG+TGPG(GTP½PFG\+XCP)KOÅPG\/CTKC)QTIWGU'WN¼NKC+INGUKCU$TCFGP2JKNNKRU4KECTF/CU+X½P +4+50')41 /QTGPQ#DD[0CTKUJMKP2CW4QEC/CTVÉ5CNGU#NGZC6WEMGT/QPVUG8KTIKNK^Translator Nick Chapman | Advertising T. 93 295 54 00 | Coordinator Carme Mingo cmingo@timeout. Supported by cat | Mercedes Arconada | Mercè Llubera | David M. Mestres | Marketing and communication %NCTC0CTXKÏP^)GTO¼$WUVCOCPVG^Published by 80 MÉS 4 Publicacions Time Out Barcelona Student Guide Published under the authority and with the collaboration of Time Out International Ltd, London, UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under licence HTQO6KOG1WV)TQWR.VF6QVVGPJCO%QWTV4QCF.QPFQP96#$7- ^All rights reserved throughout the world. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of Time Out Group Ltd. © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2016 BCU-Welcome Barcelona Global Design Development, SL – GdD®
Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 www.timeout.com/barcelona 3 BCN SEP 2016_JUN 2017 calendar SEPTEMBER OCTOBER 2016 - 2017 24 07 Festes de la Mercè Sitges Film Festival Tradition Film Barcelona pays homage 6GTTQTCPFHCPVCU[ƂKEMU to its patron saint. from around the world.
OCTOBER NOVEMBER DECEMBER
252 16 13 1,000m of desire Michael Kiwanuka Fira de Santa Llúcia Art Music Christmas The CCCB explores London singer presents The perfect place to buy spaces of sexuality. his new record. decorations and gifts.
Cubism and war. The Picasso Museum inaugurates a The Cure. The veteran English rock band touch down in DON’T MISS! show about avant-garde art during WWI. OCT 20 Barcelona as part of a major world tour. NOV 26
DECEMBER JANUARY FEBRUARY MARCH 31 07 23 13 New Year’s Eve Winter sales start Carnival Zurich BCN Marathon Party Shopping Tradition Sport *CUPoVVKOGƂQYP!5C[ If you’re a bargain-hunter, Time to party before the Trainers at the ready! ‘hola’ to 2017. prepare for action. lean weeks of Lent. Get set to run 42km.
APRIL MAY MAY JUNE 23 25 31 15 Sant Jordi Loop Festival Primavera Sound Sónar Tradition Video art Music festival Music festival Catalonia’s most A feast of contemporary Three days of great BCN’s epic electronic romantic day of the year. art on screen. music at Parc del Fòrum. event returns once more.
4 www.timeout.com/barcelona Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 www.timeout.com/barcelona 5 People of Barcelona Aziza Brahim How did I Singer 39 years old end up here?
Hannah Pennell Is music your reponse to a TOB English editor mission? When I was small it helped me escape the reality of the refugee Take it camps, and later I realised that it could be a tool to explain the from me ƁIJVQHO[RGQRNG+YCUJGNRGF by my grandmother, Ljadra Mink I arrived in Barcelona in 1999 and /CDTWMnVJGRQGVQHVJGTKƂGo things were very different back then, in some respects at least. Easyjet You took up her cause. was but four years old and had a Completely. When she lived in fraction of the schedules and the Western Sahara, she wrote destinations it now boasts. There poems about the nomadic was no Facebook. Or euro legal lifestyle, love and daily life, but tender. I came to live here having the exodus meant she focused only visited once before – a long all her energy on the Sahrawi weekend the previous Easter which ƁIJV+NKMGVJGHCEVVJCVO[OWUKE had started inauspiciously with a is drawn from that. I was born as two-hour wait in the wrong terminal a refugee and that marks me. for my Catalan boyfriend. Taking up I’ve never known my country. residence was in many ways straightforward enough, but still, And if you wanted to visit it? there are certain features of
I run the risk of being arrested or MARIA DIAS Barcelona life that newcomers will even tortured by the Moroccans, always be better off learning sooner FGURKVGVJGHCEVVJCVQWTƁIJV Aren’t women the most visible rather than later. First, shop at the and right to self-determination face of Sahrawi music? market. You’re in the European city are protected by the Women have been very involved with the most fresh-food markets, international community. in Sahrawi culture and and not only do they stock myriad resistance. It’s no surprise products, they also constantly You lived in Cuba, didn’t you? that we’re the guardians of our provide sensorial ecstasy. And their Yes, from when I was 11 until I people’s values. DCTUCPFECHÅUCTGUQOGQHVJGDGUV was 19. I went there with a [QWoNNƁPF5RGCMKPIQHYJKEJQPGQH scholarship, like a lot of Sahrawi What place are you referring to the great pleasures here is also one children – it helped me get away in the title of your latest record, of the simplest: going out for mid- HTQOVJGFKHƁEWNVUKVWCVKQPKPVJG An object: the Miró Abbar el Hamada (Across the morning coffee. But please don’t go TGHWIGGECORU6JGKPƂWGPEGQH mosaic on La Rambla Hamada)? to Starbucks or Costa or anywhere Cuban music is noticeable in The piece reminds Brahim of her The Hamada is the desert where else that’s ‘easy’. There’s time what I do. I absorbed its joy. debut in Barcelona, in the CSIC we’ve been for the last 40 years. enough for that when you go home. auditorium in C/Hospital. It’s a hard, rocky desert where One of my most favourite places is How did you end up here? nothing grows – one of the most not the cheapest, and its decor is +ƁTUVYGPVVQ/CFTKFYKVJC inhospitable in the world. anything but Scandi-inspired – but record deal that saw me go on the coffee is always spot on, the tour with the group Leyoad, with Do you think we have a frivolous pastries irresistible and the couple Mariem Hassan. Later, for love, I relationship with music here? who run it welcoming. Finally, came to Barcelona, a city that Music is a type of free however good your Spanish (or had always been a goal for me. expression. For me it has to Catalan) may be, there’s no shame convey concern, commitment in going to a hairdresser who Why’s that? and political attitudes, but I can’t speaks your own language. I learnt I saw it as a cosmopolitan city, Place of origin: criticise what my colleagues do that the hard way. and I thought that my music El-Aaiun refugee camp because everybody has their could improve if I lived here. And It’s located in Tindouf, in south- own motivations. Hannah keeps discovering that’s how it’s been – musically west Algeria; her family settled new things about the city it’s given me stability. there in 1975. –Jordi Bianciotto
6 www.timeout.com/barcelona Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 I love BCN Barceloneta beach Passeig Marítim This seafront stretch is spectacular BCN: by night, especially during the September Mercè festival. TOP SECRET
B. García & M. Sales
_Sex Pistols drummer Paul Cook moved here in 1992, and opened a clothes shop in Plaça Regomir. _ On the corner where C/Entença meets C/Tamarit is The House of Snails, a late 19th- century building decorated with myriad molluscs. _ Pròleg bookshop, at Sant Pere Més Alt, 46, specialises in women’s writing. Francesca Bonnemaison (1872-1949), who promoted education for girls, once lived at this WTF IS... address. Learn to speak Barcelona with our vocab guide | By Jan Fleischer _ C/Secretari %QNQOCKP)T¼EKC is named after a 15th-century Por ró secretary of the Spanish If you get a chance to drink from a porró (pu-ROH, with a rolling double r), take it. The more advanced can drink wine from the spout, the porró held at arm’s Inquisition. length, without spilling a drop.
Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 www.timeout.com/barcelona 7 Survival guide A guide to keep you on your toes in the city
The essentials Here are the steps for setting up a life in Barcelona, the transport options, and where to learn Catalan or Spanish.
What do I need to open a bank need either a valid European account? Health Card (issued in your home You need a letter of acceptance country) or private medical from your host university or insurance for the duration of your research centre, or any document UVC[0QP'7EKVK\GPUYKNNTGSWKTG that proves you’re studying or private medical insurance that doing research at a centre in covers their time here. Primary Catalonia, as well as a passport medical care is provided at and a foreigner’s ID number (NIE). neighbourhood CAP centres: see If you’re a national of an EU www.catsalut.cat or call 902 111 member state, apply for the NIE at 444 for details. the police station located at 4CODNC)WKRÖUEQC;QWoNNPGGF Which card should I use to travel a prior appointment, which you can by public transport in Barcelona? make at: https://sede. The most popular integrated travel administracionespublicas.gob.es cards (for metro, bus, tram, and (some of the info is in English, but ()%CPFNQECN4GPHGVTCKPU CTG certain sections are in Spanish T-10: A multi-person travel T-50/30: An individual travel Merit School UPC: only). If you don’t come from an EU card allowing 10 journeys on all card valid for 50 journeys over 30 www.meritschool.com/upc/ member country, you should go to operators in the Integrated Fare EQPUGEWVKXGFC[UHTQOVJGƁTUV UPF Idiomes: www.upf.edu/pei/ the police station at Passeig de System (IFS) across one to six XCNKFCVKQP+PVJGECUGQHQPG\QPG Sant Joan, 189. To make an \QPGU+PVJGECUGQHQPG\QPG cards, holders have 75 minutes How can I get free WiFi internet appointment, email: infoext. cards, passengers have 75 DGVYGGPVJGƁTUVCPFNCUV access? [email protected] minutes from validating the ticket validation for changing lines or Barcelona WiFi is a service from the to change lines or mode of mode of transport. local council that enables you to Do I need to register with the local transport (eg, bus to train); this For more details about tickets and connect to the internet through WiFi authorities? time increases by 15 minutes per route maps, see www.tmb.es. hotspots in various municipal 4GIKUVTCVKQP empadronament) \QPG amenities and public access points. with the city council enables you to T-Mes (monthly travel card): Where I can get my foreign degree ;QWECPƁPFCNKUVQH9K(KUVCVKQPU become a resident of Barcelona. #JQNFGTURGEKƁEVTCXGNECTF approved/validated? CVYYYDEPECVDCTEGNQPCYKƁGP Everyone, with or without Spanish allowing unlimited journeys on all You should go to the Higher residence permits, has to register, operators in the IFS, and which Inspectorate of Education at and it enables you to carry out lasts one calendar month. T-Mes $GTICTCITQWPFƂQQT6 various administrative processes. cards must be used in conjunction 520 96 03. CONVERSATION GUIDE APP 6QTGIKUVGTIQVQC%KVK\GP5GTXKEG with a valid ID such as a national ID In English, Spanish, French, %GPVTG 1ƁEKPCFo#VGPEKÏ%KWVCF¼ document or any ID issued by IFS Where can I learn Catalan? German, Italian, Portuguese... the addresses are listed on www. operators. %QPUQTEKRGTCNC0QTOCNKV\CEKÏ barcelona.cat, and it’s a good idea T-Jove (young person travel Lingüística (CpNL): www.cpnl.cat to call 010 or go online to make a card): Under-25s can use this Intercat: www.intercat.cat prior appointment. personalised card to make Parla.cat: www.parla.cat unlimited journeys over 90 days UPF Idiomes: www.upf.edu/pei/ How can I access the public HTQOVJGƁTUVXCNKFCVKQP QPCNN health system? operators in the IFS. Proof of age is Where can I learn Spanish? If you come from an EU or EEA necessary with a valid national ID UAB Idiomes: OGODGTUVCVGQT5YKV\GTNCPF[QW document, NIE or passport. www.uab.cat/servei-llengues/
8 www.timeout.com/barcelona Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 Safety 7 FUN FACTS tips ABOUT Every big city has its risks. BARCELONA While there’s no need to be paranoid, you should aim to stay safe. Here’s a 1. ANCHORS AWAY guide to what to look out Certain historians think that Christopher Columbus was from a for and what to do in case Catalan noble family and lived at you need help. C/Mirallers, 9, in the Born.
Before starting out on your big 2. LITTLE SHITTERS Barcelona adventure, you may want At Christmas, Catalans like to to gather practical information just enhance their nativity scenes with in case you run into problems. For a caganer,CƁIWTGKPVTCFKVKQPCN example, get the phone number of farmer’s garb, in the act of your country’s embassy or defecating. consulate, and any numbers you might need to cancel credit cards or 3. LOCAL FUN AND GAMES handle medical emergencies. On the beach of Barceloneta, you During your stay, there are many might spot a game of ta-ka-tà. It’s measures you can take to keep similar to tennis, but players use yourself safe: their hands rather than rackets When making reservations or ;QWECPƁPF to hit the ball – the sound made renting accommodation it’s best to OQTGCFXKEG gives the sport its name. use the services of institutions and to wear a seat belt, and it’s best not CDQWVGPLQ[KPI organisations dedicated to that to stop for strangers. Try your best [QWTVKOGJGTGCV 4. CREATURES BIG AND SMALL purpose, as recommended by to park in well-lit locations. www.bcu.cat The impressive statue of a woolly Barcelona Centre Universitari Avoid showing your cash in mammoth in Ciutadella park was (www.bcu.cat/en). public, and only carry a small participation in planned to be just one of a series If you use public transport, amount. forms of gambling that appear QHNKHGUK\GRTGJKUVQTKECPKOCNU keep an eye on your belongings, In restaurants and bars, ask GCU[VQYKP4GOGODGTVJCV roaming the grounds. But the especially your phone and money. for the price of food and drinks to these people run their games 1888 proposal of a local priest/ In any crowded place, you avoid surprises when paying. ‘professionally’, with the aim of geologist never progressed. might want to strap your bag and/or You may come across people earning money through dishonest camera across your front, rather who will try to divert your attention means. Such activity is illegal and 5. SAINTS’ ALIVE than your back. It’s also important with various excuses (saying you prosecuted by the police as fraud. Despite not being as religious to use a secure closure, such as a have stains on your clothes, selling On the beaches, respect the as cities in southern Spain, NQEM\KRGVEGPUWTKPIVJCVKVoU ƂQYGTUCUMKPIHQT[QWTUKIPCVWTG EQNQWTGFƂCIUKPFKECVKPIYJGVJGT Barcelona has acquired two always properly closed. etc.). Do your best to avoid them, as it’s safe to swim. If you’re going RCVTQPUCKPVUs'WN¼NKCCPF/GTEÄ If you’re travelling by car, take they could be pickpockets. alone to the beach and planning to If it rains during the September the appropriate safety measures. ;QWOC[CNUQƁPFRGQRNG swim, it’s best not to leave festival of La Mercè, locals says Note that everyone in the car needs in the street seeking your valuables unattended. 'WN¼NKCoUET[KPICVDGKPIWUWTRGF
6. ILLUSTRIOUS COMPANY CALL 112 Feel the spirit of Barcelona’s artistic past at Bar Marsella (Sant Pau, 65), where the likes of If you’re the victim of a crime, everywhere in BCN except a few apps are free, useful and easy to Picasso, Dalí and Hemingway are CUMHQTJGNRHTQOCRQNKEGQHƁEGT spots underground). Operators use. For details, contact all said to have partaken in a glass or call 112. This number works can help you in English, French [email protected]. or two of absinthe. for all emergency services, and German as well as Catalan KPENWFKPICODWNCPEGUCPFVJGƁTG and Spanish. If you prefer, there 7. GOING UNDERGROUND brigade. It’s free, it works 24/7, are two apps you can download, Carnival week in Barcelona is and you can even call using your ‘112 accessible’ and ‘My 112’, full of parties, dressing-up and mobile from places where you for accessing the service – your burying a sardine. Yes, you read can’t get a signal with your phone will then use geolocation that right. On Ash Wednesday, provider (so long as another to identify your position so the a mock funeral is held for a little company can; you can get a signal TGURQPFGPVECPƁPF[QW$QVJ ƁUJ[9J[!9JQMPQYU
Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 www.timeout.com/barcelona 9 Get this timeout.com/barcelona Dine at the best restaurants Book a table through our website and enjoy a wide range of eateries and top dishes across the city MARIA DIAS
Find out what’s on Buy your tickets Get the latest info about everything that’s 6JGCVTGƁNOFCPEGHGUVKXCNUEQPEGTVU happening around the city kids’ shows... 1PQWTYGDUKVG[QWoNNƁPFFGVCKNUCDQWVYJCVoUQPTKIJVPQYCPFWRVQ You can purchase tickets to the city’s biggest events via our website, date info about the best of what Barcelona has to offer. With new events whether for concerts, festivals or other cultural events. What’s more, you added each day, you’ll have no excuse not to have fun. ECPGPLQ[FKUEQWPVUIGV[QWTVKEMGVUGCTN[CPFDGPGƁVHTQOURGEKCNQHHGTU
Explore the bustling and varied neighbourhoods of Barcelona Book your tickets online for Barcelona events and attractions at at www.timeout.com/barcelona/by-area. www.timeout.com/barcelona and you won’t miss a thing.
10 www.timeout.com/barcelona Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 www.timeout.com/barcelona 11 Shhh... Don’t tell anybody
Gardens, art galleries, buildings, hair salons, restaurants, cocktail bars, concert venues… There are many places in Barcelona that are not immediately obvious, and only accessible to the most perceptive. Read on and you’ll become a member of that exclusive group.
By Laura Conde
12 www.timeout.com/barcelona Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 PALAU BARÓ DE QUADRAS
Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 www.timeout.com/barcelona 13 THROUGH A TINY DOOR IN THE MEDIEVAL JEWISH QUARTER, IN A PLACE THAT AT FIRST LOOKS LIKE A GOBLIN HOME, ONCE STOOD THE CITY’S MAIN SYNAGOGUE Sinagoga Major
no multi-award-winning interior designer could GXGTJQRGVQCEJKGXG| Sant Pere Més Alt, 31 (La Ribera) ⓣ 93 310 55 35 www.facebook.com/bar.pasajes
SINAGOGA MAJOR DE BARCELONA Through a tiny door, which looks like many others in El Call (Barcelona’s medieval Jewish SWCTVGT KUCRNCEGVJCVWRQPƁTUVINCPEGUGGOU as though it could be home to a kind family of goblins, but was actually once the city’s main synagogue. Built in the 6th century and rebuilt in the 14th, it’s one of the oldest synagogues in Europe and a place worth visiting due to the fact it retains its original appearance and offers an
IVÁN MORENO IVÁN invitation to understand Barcelona a little better. It’s open to the public for visits as well as MUTIS RTKXCVGEGTGOQPKGU| The cocktail area of Bar Mut was created under Marlet, 5 (Barri Gòtic) a cloud of stealth, but when circumstances www.calldebarcelona.org see you cross paths with Robert De Niro and it turns out he loves you (to the extent that he PALAU BARÓ DE QUADRAS wanted to open a Mutis outpost in NYC), it Many of Barcelona’s modernista buildings are DGEQOGUCYHWNN[FKHƁEWNVVQTGOCKPQWVQH spectacularly in your face. Wander down sight. And if the magazine Drinks International Passeig de Gràcia and you’ll scarcely notice chooses you as the best cocktail bar in anything apart from such gems as Casa Europe, all is truly lost. Mutis is located on the Amatller, Casa Batlló and La Pedrera. However, ƁTUVƂQQTQH$CT/WVCPFKVoUCRCTCFKUGQH with the spotlight falling so consistently on creative cocktails that’s also said to have such venues, it’s worth seeking out less- When you venture inside air- stolen the heart of other celebrities, such as explored territory with a visit to this ornamental raid shelter No 307 (Nou de 9QQF[#NNGP| la Rambla, 169) and the one GFKƁEGYJKEJCNUQHGCVWTGU)QVJKECPF+UNCOKE Diagonal, 438 (Gràcia) in Plaça del Diamant – both KPƂWGPEGUCPFKUNQECVGFLWUVOKPWVGUHTQO ⓣ 93 415 85 15 DON’T are open to the public, the top end of Passeig de Gràcia. Guided tours although only on certain organised by Cases Singulars (Unique BAR PASAJES FORGET THE days of the week – you’ll Houses) started in spring 2016. Renowned as one of the best WAR probably be unable to Diagonal, 373 (Eixample Dret) places for canyes (small draught breathe for a moment or two. ⓣ 670 466 260 And you might have the beers) in Barcelona, the truth paralysing sensation that www.casessingulars.com is that once you get to this bar in La you can still hear the sound Ribera, you’ll want to stay forever more, even if of the bombs that fell, not so SOFAR SOUNDS they end up serving only petrol. But we don’t NQPICIQQPVJKUEKV[| Who wouldn’t change the hardships of think that will ever happen, because in this macrofestivals for the comfort of their sofa, former concierge’s booth, they not only have blanket included? This initiative, which already quality canyes but also excellently made, works in cities such as London, has taken off in straightforward tapas and charm – charm that Barcelona and includes a programme of
14 www.timeout.com/barcelona Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 There’s a small street that runs between C/ de la Boqueria and C/Ferran called Aroles. In the middle of that street, you can take a public lift to a paradise of vegetation. You can also reach it through the Hotel Petit Palace Boqueria Garden (Boqueria, 10).
A SECRET FUNDACIÓ ANTONI TÀPIES GARDEN IN THE
MARIA DIAS CITY CENTRE
have any soul at all, will also make you feel TCVJGTYKUVHWN| Pl. del Vuit de Març, s/n (Barri Gòtic)
OLOKUTI This organic and fair-trade shop is always worth a visit, for the chance to browse its ample stock of clothes, books, food and items HQTVJGJQOGCPFVQGPLQ[CEQHHGGKPKVU OCIPKƁEGPVICTFGPVJCV[QWYQWNFPoVGZRGEVVQ ƁPFYJGP[QWGPVGTHTQOVJGUVTGGV+VoUCP ideal place to take a break, in an urban oasis VJCVRTQXKFGUCDTGCVJKPIURCEGHQTCNNCIGU| Astúries, 36-38 (Gràcia) ⓣ 93 217 00 70 www.olokuti.com
LES GRUTES DE JUJOL .C(KPEC5CPUCNXCFQTKULWUVD[VJGGPVTCPEGVQ the Creueta del Coll park. This modernista house has underground galleries from which concerts in intimate venues, usually you can access a well of medicinal waters that apartments and private houses. To be in the was discovered by accident. It happened at the audience, you need to subscribe to their start of the 20th century, when architect Josep PGYUNGVVGTVJTQWIJYJKEJ[QWoNNƁPFQWVYJGTG /CTKC,WLQNYCULWUVDGIKPPKPIEQPUVTWEVKQP a performance is taking place but never who’s of the building. Today the house is the playing – that’s only revealed on the night of the WHAT DO YOU DO WITH A headquarters of the Taller d’Història de Gràcia EQPEGTVKVUGNH| (the Gràcia History Workshop), and the grottos www.facebook.com/sofarbcn FORMER GYM THAT YOU can be visited for free the second Saturday and HQWTVJ5WPFC[QHGXGT[OQPVJ| ROMAN AQUEDUCT FIND BEHIND A HIDDEN Pg. de la Mare de Déu de Coll, 79 (Gràcia) In the heart of the city, close to the busy commercial thoroughfare that is Portal de DOOR IN PREMISES QUINTO CUARTA NoPIGN[QWoNNƁPFHQWTCTEJGUHTQOVJG4QOCP +PCPWPMPQYPNQECVKQPKP$CTEGNQPC[QWoNNƁPF aqueduct that for many years used to bring WHERE YOU’RE VJKUTGUVCWTCPVVJCVFGƁPGUKVURJKNQUQRJ[CU water to Barcino (the name of the Roman strictly hush-hush, a concept that is already settlement that once stood here) from the PLANNING TO SET UP A widespread in places such as New York and Besòs river. The arches are now integrated into London, but is still rather undeveloped in the wall of a more modern building. The sight COOKING SCHOOL? Barcelona. They don’t give out their address, of this Roman relic in a square that also there’s no menu and the secret of their houses a children’s playground will carry La Foodieteca success is down to word of mouth. All you have you back through the centuries, but, if you to do to be part of the gang is send an email to
Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 www.timeout.com/barcelona 15 BAR PASAJES MARIA DIAS
16 www.timeout.com/barcelona Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 TO GET IN, YOU NEED TO GO THROUGH AN ENTRYWAY OFF PASSATGE DE MERCADER, AS IF YOU WERE JUST ANOTHER RESIDENT Galeria Projecte SD
VJGETGCVQTQHVJGRTQLGEV#NGUUCPFTQ%CUVTQ who goes shopping every day in the Boqueria market and then creates an extensive set menu (that costs around €30) using fresh produce, which – he’s Sicilian, it’s inevitable – VCMGUKVUEWGHTQO+VCN[| ⓣ 630 774 712 [email protected] @quintocuartabcn
GALERIA PROJECTE SD To get into this art gallery, you need to go through an entryway off Passatge de Mercader, CUKH[QWYGTGLWUVCPQVJGTTGUKFGPVVJGP explore this space that schedules shows by contemporary national and international
artists. Exhibiting this year have been the likes MORENO IVÁN of Colombian Raimond Chaves who, together with Gilda Mantilla, represented his adopted form of trainers, bags, T-shirts, sweaters, country of Peru at the 56th Venice Biennale. cosmetics and amazing hairstyles. Ptge. de Mercader, 8 (Eixample Esquerre) Duc, 5 (Barri Gòtic) ⓣ 93 488 13 60 ⓣ 93 317 18 21 www.projectesd.com SHAMPOO, www.theroombarcelona.com SCISSORS, DYES CASETA DE NINES DEL PUTXET FUNDACIÓ ANTONI TÀPIES Not only is the caseta (‘small house’) a AND DRINKS Yes, we’re well aware that there’s nothing XCNWCDNGOQFGTPKUVCLGYGNVJCVFCVGUHTQOVJG secret about this cultural landmark in the heart end of the 19th century, but its location offers of the city, with its eye-catching modernista a fantastic viewpoint from which to appreciate façade on top of which is perched the metal the city. The house, which is covered in Tàpies sculpture, ‘Cloud and Chair’. However, multicoloured tiles, is in the neighbourhood of The Secret Room (Consell de CUVJGETQYFUGPLQ[VJGGZJKDKVKQPUJGCFQHHVQ Putxet, on C/ de la Costa, close to the Jardins Cent, 304. T. 93 348 76 08) VJGUGEQPFƂQQTVGTTCEG VCMGCNKHVHTQOVJG de Mercè Rodoreda park. It was built by Delfí is perhaps the epitome of NQYGTITQWPFƂQQT CPFEJGEMQWV6¼RKGUoU Barcelona’s hairdresser’s- Guinovart and Núria Coma to be used as a play with-a-plus sector. You enter ‘Sock’. Originally supposed to be 18 metres space for their children and, lucky for kids through a regal, majestic tall and stand in the main hall of the MNAC, his VQFC[CNNVJGQTKIKPCNGNGOGPVUJCXGDGGPMGRV| building, which gives way to 1991 proposal for a sculpture of a dirty, holey Costa, 86 (Sarrià-Sant Gervasi) an imposing space that, UQEMYCUTGLGEVGF5QOG[GCTUNCVGTVJG despite having no decoration artist created this mini version (2.75 metres) THE ROOM HAIRSTYLE to speak of, is instantly HQTJKU(QWPFCVKQP| One of Barcelona’s coolest hairdresser’s is appealing. As well as having Aragó, 255 (Eixample Dret) your hair cut, you can enjoy ⓣ NQECVGFQPVJGVQRƂQQTQHCENQVJGUUJQRVJCV exhibitions, wine tastings and 93 487 03 15 stocks urban-casual pieces from Scandinavian cocktails. www.fundaciotapies.org NCDGNUVJCVCTGPQVGCU[VQƁPFGNUGYJGTGKP this city. If you head to The Room Hairstyle, EL PALADAR make sure you have your credit card on a tight ,WUVKOCIKPGIQKPIƁUJKPIKPVJGUGCCTQWPF lead, because temptation will pop out at you Sitges. And doing it in the company of expert from all sides of this truly trendy space, in the ƁUJGTOCPCPFEJGH1TKQN5GTTCYJQ
Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 www.timeout.com/barcelona 17 HIDDEN FOOD TAKE A BREAK Many well-known Barcelona restaurants IN AN URBAN JCXGNQQMGFVQLQKPKPVJGHWPQH OASIS ENCPFGUVKPGGCVKPIQTCVVJGNGCUVVJGLQ[ of discovering the new. Such is the case with La Cuina d’en Garriga (Consell de Cent, 308), which is both a shop specialising in local produce and a restaurant with a small wine cellar that has four little tables where you can try dishes from the menu in an intimate, relaxed atmosphere. If you fancy dining with a view of La Boqueria market, the OG\\CPKPGƂQQTQHPaella Bar (Pòrtics de La Boqueria, Locals 6-7) is ideal for OLOKUTI groups of up to 15. On the other hand, if it’s quality tapas made by a renowned chef that you’re in the mood for, Suculent afterwards will take you to the terrace at his EL PASSAT DE LA BARCELONA MÉS FOSCA (Rambla del Raval, 43) is the work of the house and cook all the goodies you caught. After it was announced that Barcelona was to innovative Carles Abellán, and it has two ;QWoNNGPLQ[CNQPIXCTKGFOGCNKPENWFKPI host the 1992 Olympic Games, a huge JKFFGPEQTPGTUsQPVJGNQYGTITQWPFƂQQT NQDUVGTCPFQVJGTUJGNNƁUJ;QWECPIQGKVJGT clean-up and renovation operation was is an area reserved for seven people with LWUVHQTVJGUWRRGTQTVJGYJQNGGZRGTKGPEGKP undertaken across the city. Thankfully, while the RGTUQPCNKUGFOGPWUCPFWRUVCKTUCTGƁXG groups of at least six people. The meal starts RTQLGEVDTQWIJVCNQVQHKORTQXGOGPVUKVFKFPoV UOCNNVCDNGUHQTGCVKPI¼NCECTVG| at €100. wipe away all traces of Barcelona’s medieval But it’s impossible to talk about [email protected] period, which you can discover on this guided Barcelona restaurants with secrets tour, ‘The past of the darkest part of Barcelona’. without mentioning Set Portes (Pg. LA FOODIETECA Hear legends, curses and stories of death as d’Isabel II, 14)+VUƁTUVƂQQTKUCUVTCPIG What to do with a former gym called California you traverse the narrow backstreets of Santa network of doors behind which are hidden Loop Gym that you come across by accident, Caterina, La Ribera i Sant Pere. two large private dining rooms and two behind a hidden door in the premises where tickets.visitbarcelona.com smaller rooms where political and you’re planning to set up a cooking school? business decisions have been taken that Maria, who from the very beginning wanted to CAIXAFORUM JCXGJCFCDKIKPƂWGPEGQPNQECNU| stay loyal to the space she’d found, knew The concept of going up to the roof terrace of a For his part, chef Paco Pérez has also exactly what to do – organise gastronomic EKV[JQVGNVQGPLQ[CFTKPMYKVJKPETGFKDNGXKGYU LQKPGFVJGVTGPFYKVJVJGQRGPKPIQHDoble, show cookings with two key protagonists: deli has become part of the Barcelona psyche, but inside L’Eggs restaurant (Pg. de Gràcia, specialities (foie gras, oysters, etc.) and there are some upper-level experiences that 116), which opens at night from Thursday GPVGTVCKPOGPVKPKVURWTGUVHQTO| are much less appreciated. At CaixaForum, for to Saturday, offering signature cocktails Ramon Berenguer el Gran, 2, entl. 1a KPUVCPEG9JGTGCUKVoUJCTFVQƁPFCP[NQECN and avant-garde cooking in a (Barri Gòtic) YJQJCUPoVRCUUGFVJTQWIJKVUFQQTUKVoULWUV UQRJKUVKECVGFEJKEUGVVKPI| ⓣ 93 269 39 45 CUJCTFVQƁPFVJQUGHGYYJQJCXGOCFGKVWR www.foodieteca.com to the roof. Which is a shame because not only is the building a splendid example of 5º 1ª modernista architecture, its roof also lets you In a penthouse apartment in the centre of GPLQ[CFKHHGTGPVRGTURGEVKXGQH/QPVLWËE Barcelona, and one blessed with a stunning Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 6-8 (Sants) VGTTCEGVQDQQV[QWOKIJVGZRGEVVQƁPF ⓣ 93 412 51 62 many things, but not necessarily a hair salon. obrasociallacaixa.org And if that salon also doubled as a cocktail DCTYJGTG[QWECPUKVDCEMCPFƂKEMVJTQWIJC BARCELONA SUPERCOMPUTING CENTRE glossy mag, Blondie Mary in hand, on Friday If you have any kind of nerd blood running afternoon or Saturday morning, while you wait through your veins, then you must make your Enjoy the cooking for your highlights to be touched up, you’ll way to this temple of computing. And when we of Carles Abellán in wonder why no one thought of creating 5º 1ª say ‘temple’, we mean it literally. A former a private space at before. You don’t like the thought of a Blondie EJCRGNJQWUGUVJGMOQHƁDTGQRVKEECDNG Suculent. Mary? Don’t worry – there’s any number of and 3,000 memory boards of the Marenostrum other cocktails to choose from, such as the 3 supercomputer. Take advantage of the weekly Ginto Premium. tours to see this intersection of religions. Rda. de la Universitat, 20 (Eixample Dret) Jordi Girona, 31 (Les Corts) ⓣ 93 412 51 62 ⓣ 93 413 77 16 www.quintoprimera.com www.bsc.es
18 www.timeout.com/barcelona Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 www.timeout.com/barcelona 19 medieval building housing works from Picasso’s formative years. 6 Climb up the magical Montjuïc This ‘mountain’ is perfect for a leafy walk with great views, 20 GREAT although it takes a bit of legwork to climb. With buildings from the 1992 Olympic Games, as well as the Botanic Gardens and a castle, it’s worth it. Back at the bottom, the Mies van der Rohe
THINGS TO MARIA DIAS Pavillion and CaixaForum are FGƁPKVGN[YQTVJCUVQR 2 Discover the city on foot 7 DO IN BCN Barcelona is the perfect size for Walk on the arty side strolling around. Stunning buildings Museums are on almost every and parks abound, but there’s also corner in Barcelona, but one jewel a Barcelona off the beaten track: not to miss is the MNAC, with head for hidden squares like El Catalan art from the Romanesque Sortidor (above), get to know the period to the mid-20th century. On charms of Sant Andreu, or visit the a smaller scale, the Palau Robert village-like Sarrià. is free, has great exhibitions, and BARCELONA IS FULL OF AMAZING SIGHTS BUT the building itself is worth a WHERE DO YOU START? HERE’S OUR GUIDE TO THE 3 gander. CITY’S ESSENTIALS Explore modernisme As well as the big hits, be sure to 8* visit some of Gaudí’s less-famed creations, such as Palau Güell and Casa Vicens. Works by other THE RAVAL modernista architects not to be Once called the ‘Barrio missed include Casa Amatller and Chino’, this neighbourhood the Sant Pau Art Nouveau Site, a has inspired many a writer. former hospital that’s now a World Nowadays, it’s a place where Heritage Site. local businesses thrive in the form of unique shops and restaurants, while still 4 maintaining some of its Get to know the city’s history seedy underworld glamour. Barcelona is full of diverse Street culture is booming cultures and heritages – with every here, alongside gems such step you take through its streets, as the CCCB and Filmoteca. you’ll stumble upon some of its history. Plaça del Rei, the Born Cultural Centre and the Maritime Museum are just some of the city’s 9 must-sees. Hit a high note in concert Barcelona has excellent live music venues, such as Apolo and 1* 5 Razzmatazzz, and great concert Do a vermouth crawl! See the city of Picasso’s halls. The Liceu opera house is a 'XGT[VJKPIVCUVGUDGVVGT youth survivor in splendour, with gold CEEQORCPKGFD[CIQQF Start at C/Mercè, 3, where leaf, plush carpets and ornate vermutGURGEKCNN[YKVJC the Picasso family once carvings, while L’Auditori is a sleek DKVGVQGCV6T[VJGJQWUG lived (the building no longer space with capacity for 2,400. XGTOQWVJCVENCUUKEU$CT stands). Head to Els 4 Gats, Calders, La Pepita and where the artist and his $CT'NGEVTKEKVCV peers gathered to dine and 10 discuss their trade. Lastly, go Visit the gay heart of the city to the Museu Picasso, a beautiful Barcelona’s gay capital has long
DID YOU KNOW? +PQXGTCWFKQXKUWCNRTQFWEVKQPUYGTGƁNOGFKP$CTEGNQPCsVJGPWODGTQHRTQFWEVKQPUJCUVTKRNGFUKPEG
20 www.timeout.com/barcelona Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2016/2017 been the Eixample, nicknamed Gaixample for the sheer number of 16* stores and clubs that cater to this
IRENE FERNÁNDEZ clientele. Start the night with a drink in Museum or Plata Bar; if SEAFOOD dancing till dawn is your goal, No one leaves Barcelona Metro is a great choice, as is without sampling the Arena, where both boys and girls seafood. Popular places to are welcome. VT[KVCTGVJGƁPGCPF luxurious Galician restaurant Rias de Galicia in Poble-sec, 12 as well as Cachitos in the Perfect your path to heaven Eixample, for their fantastic 8KUKVUQOGQHVJGEKV[oUOCIPKƁEGPV assortment of seafood. In churches such as Sant Pau del Barceloneta, Can Solé Camp, a rare example of serves up a spectacular haul Romanesque architecture, of fresh seafood every day. with a fantastical façade and extraordinary cloister. The graceful basilica of Santa Maria del Mar is perhaps the best surviving 17 example of Catalan Gothic. Much more than a club $CT/GPFK\½DCNKU For many visitors, a trip to CPKEQPKEOGGVKPI Barcelona is not complete RNCEGKPVJG4CXCN 13 without heading to the Camp See 8. Savour the best in new Nou. Even if football isn’t your Catalan cooking thing, you could check out a Barcelona’s creative basketball game or take a turn or cuisine offering is extensive, two around its ice rink. and though it can mean making more room on your credit card as well as in your stomach, if you 18 11* dine in Dos Palillos, Moments or Get out! Tickets, it’ll be an experience The best place to take a break here BARCELONA’S OLD PORT – that’s well worth it. is at one of the many outdoor bars WITH YACHTS, SHOPS AND and cafés. Santa Marta is a hip CAFÉS – IS POPULAR WITH Barceloneta hangout with a huge 14 terrace, while another option is La LOCALS FOR A WEEKEND Discover your sweet tooth Font del Gat, a historical spot close WALK IN THE SUN. For posh chocolates in fancy to the Fundació Miró. packaging, head to Escribà or +PVJGCTGC[QWoNNCNUQƁPFVJG Bubó, where every bonbon is a Aquarium, the Catalan History work of art. For a real Barcelona 19 Museum and the Columbus statue. experience, stop by one of the Wander the neighbourhoods cafés on C/Petritxol for a thick, rich Many Barcelona visitors stick to hot chocolate favoured by locals. the central areas, but the city is so much more. Gràcia is full of life at all hours of the day, while Poble- 15* sec and Sant Antoni are currently the places to be, especially for their top cuisine and quality THE MED entertainment. Barcelona has just over four kilometres of beaches where you can spread out your 20 towel, stab your umbrella into Enjoy a really good party the sand, smear yourself with Once you’ve got to know Barcelona UWPETGCOCPFƁPFCXGT[ by day, let it all hang out in the best safe place for your rucksack. clubs in town for an unforgettable What’s more, just a short night. Sidecar is where indie drive or train journey away, TQEMGTUJCXGDGGPIGVVKPIVJGKTƁZ you can take in numerous for 30 years, while Magic is the other coastal towns blessed quintessential Barcelona rock with gorgeous beaches. club. If funk and hip hop are more
MARIA DIAS your thing, your best bet is Marula.