WANDERLUST Designer destinations

A guest room at the new Cotton House Hotel, Barcelona Hotel, House the new Cotton at room A guest

Design Anthology_Casa Capriz_Ad_June 2015_AW_OL.indd 1 14/5/15 2:34 pm WANDERLUST / e Süleymaniye Mosque. Image by Stefan Holm/Shutterstock Istanbul

Fast facts

Country: / Region: Marmara / Airport: Istanbul Atatürk Airport (IST) Time: UTC +2, daylight savings during summer / Currency: Turkish Lira (₺ / TRY) / Population: 14 million Country Code: +90 / Area code: 216 (Asia side), 212 (Europe side) / Ocial language: Turkish Power: 230V, plug types C and F

64 WANDERLUST / Istanbul Top: e , Istanbul. Image by Boris Stroujko/Shutterstock Bottom: Decorative tiles inside Topkapi Palace. Image by saiko3p/Shutterstock About

stanbul is a city of nearly unparalleled historical and cultural signi•cance. Spread across both banks of the Bosphorus River with one foot in Europe and the other in Asia, the city has long played a strategic role in, quite literally, bridging the cultures and traditions of East and West, while its unique geography has thrust it into the centre of world history Itime and again. Capital of the Byzantine Empire, , as it was •rst known, £ourished as the western terminus of the Great Silk Road. Evidence of this legacy is still visible today in the bustling bazaars that brim with exotic spices, and the crumbling walls that once enclosed the world’s most heavily forti•ed city. Later, under the , the city was renamed and rose again in prominence, this time as the epicentre of Islamic culture with its rich artistic and architectural forms. ’e , Topkapi Palace and traditional hammams, all teeming with lavish textiles, mosaics and calligraphic art, recall this rich heritage.

To visit Istanbul today is to walk thrugh history, both ancient and contemporary. Mediaeval city planning, arcaded avenues and cobblestone streets give visual record to its inheritance while housing an array of modern galleries, boutiques and cafes. Sumptuous sweet shops will tempt you with their cases brimming with colourful Turkish delight, marbled halva and geometric baklava; at night, historic passages clamour with patrons commanding trays of meze and bottles of raki while buskers on accordions and clarinets •ll the air with their melancholic melodies. We highly recommend a read of Orhan Pamuk’s Istanbul, considered the uno¦cial memoir of the city, to fully prepare your senses for the delight that awaits you here, at the crossroads of history and world traditions. Enjoy! When to Go

Istanbul’s climate is not easily categorised due to the city’s size, location, diverse topography and many coastlines. ’ere are several microclimates that fall somewhere between Mediterranean, humid subtropical and oceanic. Winter (December to February) in Istanbul is substantially colder than other cities in the Mediterranean region, with average temperatures dipping as low as 3°C (37°F). ’e weather in spring and autumn is milder, but can be wet and windy. Summer ( June to August) temperatures reach as high as 41°C (106°F), with an average high around 26°C (79°F). ’e most ideal times to visit are mid-May to the end of June and September to mid-October.

’e burgeoning design scene is reason enough to visit; here are a few events you might like to plan your trip around.

Since 2013, ArtInternational has brought together ’e Istanbul Design Biennial was •rst organised by the leading local and international galleries. An impressive Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts in 2012 with programme of exhibitions, events and forums complete the idea of promoting the importance of design and the week-long event held in September. culture for the economy. During the two-month period istanbulartinternational.com (October to December) the city comes alive with a series of curated exhibitions, design walks, seminars, •lm ’e Istanbul International Architecture and Urban Films screenings and much more. Festival is part of the Architecture and Urban Festival istanbuldesignbiennial.iksv.org organised annually by the Chamber of Architects of Turkey. ’e week-long event starts with World Contemporary Istanbul is now in its ninth year, and is Architecture Day on the •rst Monday of October. ’e the city’s •rst international contemporary art fair. Close •lms, as you can imagine, focus on the built environment. to 100 exhibitors from around the world showcase their arch lmfest.org work, plus there is a series of talks, conferences and VIP events over a period of four days in November. Istanbul Design Week will be celebrating ten years this contemporaryistanbul.com October. Over •ve days a variety of venues play host to exhibitions, installations, conferences, workshops, panels and conferences. istanbuldesignweek.com

66 WANDERLUST / Istanbul

Where to Stay

4Floors Istanbul Çukurcuma neighbourhood, which is known for its antique shops. ’e design of the building was inspired Tercuman Cikmazi 20, Tomtom Mahallesi, Karaköy, Beyoğlu / by the leader of the Arts & Crafts movement, William 4£oorsistanbul.com Morris, and includes many of his wallpaper designs As the name suggests, this boutique accomodation in the throughout. All the materials are natural, and use of creative neighbourhood (that used to be called chemicals has been kept to a minimum. and sometimes still is) is laid out over four £oors, one apartment per £oor. Owner Sema Topaloğlu also happens to be a designer, so you know the spaces are tastefully House Hotels decorated. Furnished with a mix of her own designs, as Abdi İpekçi Caddesi 34, Harbiye Mahellesi, Nişantaşi, Şişli / thehousehotel.com well as pieces by a roster of international designers, the apartments are spacious with high ceilings and feature ’e House group of hotels, the same group as the House panoramic views of the Bosphorus. Cafe (see Where to Eat and Drink), has four di°erent locations, all unique. ’e Nişantaşi outpost is located in Four Seasons the middle of one of Istanbul’s chicest neighbourhoods, surrounded by high-end shopping and dining locations, Tevkifhane Sokak 1, 34122 Sultanahmet / fourseasons.com while the Karaköy outpost has its own in-house art ’is luxury chain actually has two locations in the city concierge. ’e group was founded by three friends, one where east meets west — one on the Bosphorus, one the brother of local design talent Seyhan Özdemir of in the old town of Sultanahmet — but the Sultanamet Autoban (see page 76), so it’s no surprise that Autoban has location is particularly special. Here you’ll •nd 65 rooms designed several of the hotels and cafes. ’e group’s ethos housed in a charmingly restored, century-old neoclassical is a°ordable luxury, and they deliver this in spades. former prison. ’e hotel is only minutes’ walk from the most treasured architectural and religious relics — the Istanbul EDITION Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace. Büyükdere Caddesi 136, Mahellesi, Beşiktaş / editionhotels.com/istanbul Georges Eight years after NYC-based Gabellini Shepherd •rst Serdar-I Ekrem Sokak 24, Müeyyedzade Mahallesi, Galata, designed it, the Istanbul EDITION hotel still looks as Beyoğlu / georges.com modern and fresh as ever. ’e modern tower is home to ’is small hotel is tucked away on a quiet lane, and on •rst 78 guest rooms plus a luxurious full-£oor penthouse. Two entry you’ll feel you’ve walked into the most glamorous bar restaurants and a club, plus full spa, business centre and a in town. ’e building is historical, but the interiors have screening room round out the facilities. tastefully been brought into the 21st century. ’ere are 20 rooms in total, some of which have sea views. ’e ground SOHO House -£oor lobby/bar is also a restaurant, and management will Meşrutiyet Caddesi 56, Evliya Çelebi Mahallesi, Beyoğlu / be happy to organise in-room yoga sessions if you feel sohohouseistanbul.com the need. Located in the heart of Beyoğlu and spread across four impressive buildings, one of which was built in 1873 as the Heirloom home of a Genoese shipbuilder and later housed the US Adile Naşit Sokak (G-4 Sk.) 6, 34433, Kuloğlu Mahallesi, Embassy. ’e hotel has 87 rooms, all designed by CEO Cihangir / heirloomistanbul.com Nick Jones and in-house design director Vicky Charles, Heirloom, a relatively new boutique hotel of only •ve rooms, whose inspiration was taken from the city and its mixed is eco-friendly and design-oriented. Housed in a •ve- design traditions. Many of the furnishings were sourced storey Ottoman-era building that has been painstakingly from local craftsmen. On site are the members’ club, several renovated by husband-and-wife team Dilek Çamli and restaurants, Cowshed spa, gym, two rooftop pools and a Ender Sezgin, the hotel is located near the charming screening room. Top: e new Soho House in Beyoğlu Bottom: e EDITION Hotel

68 WANDERLUST / Istanbul WANDERLUST / Istanbul

Where to Eat and drink

360Istanbul e House Cafe Mikla enough to dine here, so make a reservation and make sure you get a table by the window to see the sun setting behind this Istiklal Caddesi Misir Apt 163/8, Beyoğlu and others / Asmali Mescit 9/1–2 Beyoğlu and others / thehousecafe.com ¥e Marmara Pera Hotel, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 15, Asmali Mescit iconic landmark. Mahallesi, Beyoğlu / miklarestaurant.com 360istanbul.com ’e numerous and reliable House Cafes are scattered ’is award-winning bar, restaurant and club is situated in the throughout the city, with seven locations in total. ’e Tünel From the top £oor of the Marmara Pera Hotel, at almost Alancha’s modern interior provides penthouse of a 19th-century apartment building on Istiklal outpost in particular, situated in a century-old passage, any table (thanks to the mirror-lined walls) you will dine the perfect backdrop to its menu Caddesi, one of the city’s most popular thoroughfares. ’e is quite atmospheric as well as conveniently located. ’e overlooking one of the best views of Istanbul. ’ankfully the views are spectacular and, as is alluded to in the name, provide basement has been converted from a wine cellar and doubles food and the service are as memorable as the view. Choose from a 360-degree panorama of the city. An extensive menu is as a private venue space. ’e menu, the same throughout prix •xe, a-la-carte or the innovative multi-course tasting menu available for those who wish to eat, but it seems most of the the outlets, o°ers a selection of Turkish and international by Turkey’s most recognised celebrity chef, Mehmet Gürs. patrons are here to drink and be seen. ’e latest outpost by £avours, catering for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Paired with the 360 team is 360Istanbul East Moda (360istanbuleast. great co°ee and a tempting selection of cakes and desserts, a Park Şamdan com), where you can enjoy equally breathtaking views from meal in one of their locations will be hard to avoid. the eastern shores of the Bosphorus. Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi 18/1, Nişantaşi, Şişli / parksamdan.com Hünkar Set within a lush green park in the fashionable Nişantaşi quarter is Park Şamdan. ’e rather elegant restaurant belongs Alancha Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi 21, Nişantaşi, Şişli / to Chef Hüseyin Gürsoy, who specialises in classic Turkish Maçka Kempinski Residence, Hüsrev Gerede Caddesi, Şehit Mehmet hunkarlokantasi.com cuisine with a European touch. ’e perfect spot to celebrate Sokak 9, Maçka, Beşiktaş / alancha.com If traditional Turkish and Ottoman cuisine is what you seek, a special occasion — or just a regular weekday lunch with Alancha, one of Istanbul’s latest and greatest gastronomic then •nd yourself at a table at Hünkar. Founded by Talip Istanbul’s high society. outposts, is the brainchild of progressive Turkish chef Kemal Ügümü in 1950, the restaurant is now run by Ügümü and his Demirasal. ’e hip modern interior, designed by Gürcan three sons plus a few grandsons who still serve the same quality Dere of Cacti Architecture and Design, plays the perfect meals in their simple and unpretentious restaurant. Typically a Pierre Loti Hill backdrop to a delicious, theatrical and contemporary multi- meal here starts with soup and will involve some sort of meat İdris Köşkü Caddesi 34050, Eyüp / pierrelotitepesi.com course tasting menu — if you allow yourself. Go on, do it — dish; however, vegetarians need not worry as there is also a Literally o° the beaten track, a visit to Pierre Loti Hill’s hotel it’s an experience you won’t forget anytime soon. And get the wide variety of vegetable dishes available — in fact, Hünkar is and restaurants requires more than just a little detour, so make wine pairing while you’re at it! said to be the only restaurant in Istanbul to be approved by the sure you have plenty of time before you make the diversion. Vegan Society in the US. ’e view over the Golden Horn from its hilltop vantage Cezayir point — particularly the Teras Cafe —is certainly worth the Hayriye Caddesi 12, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu / Meze by Lemon Tree trouble, and is reason alone to make the cable car journey or cezayir-istanbul.com Meşrutiyet Caddesi 83/B, Asmali Mescit Mahallesi, Beyoğlu / the walk through the cemetery. ’e area is named for the mezze.com.tr French naval o¦cer-turned-novelist Louis-Marie-Julien Cezayir consists of a series of spaces, both indoor and outdoor Viaud, who used the pen name Pierre Loti and frequented — a lounge, bar and dining salon, an undercover garden room, In this small meyhane (the word for a traditional restaurant or the spot for inspiration, though it has seen extensive upgrades and a series of meeting rooms of varying sizes. Occupying bar in Turkey) opposite the grand iconic Pera Palace Hotel, in facilities since his time. most of an impressive historic building that was formerly an the dining concept is of course meze — a succession of small Yeni Lokanta Italian school, the cosy spaces are deceptively large. ’e menu dishes, warm or cold, that are typically consumed with some Kumbaraçi Yokuşu Sokak 66, Kumbaraci Mahallesi, Beyoğlu / consists of contemporary Turkish cuisine and an intriguing type of alcohol, which in Istanbul would be raki. ’e meze Rami lokantayeni.com list of cocktails. Apparently a favourite after-work hangout here represent a modern take on traditional dishes and are Utangac Sokak 6, Cankurtaran Mahellesi, Sultanahmet / After a stint at one of Istanbul’s •rst fusion restaurants, for architects, designers and other creative types. produced with fresh, local and seasonal ingredients. ’ere are ramirestaurant.com Changa, chef Civan Er opened Yeni Lokanta (yeni meaning only seven tables, so be sure to make a reservation. Rami is located in a charming Ottoman-era weatherboard ‘new’, lokanta meaning ‘canteen’ or ‘diner’) just a few years ago. home in the historic neighbourhood of Sultanahmet, and Despite its newcomer status, Yeni Lokanta has been hailed as overlooks the Blue Mosque. ’e food is based on traditional a game changer in the local dining scene. Enjoy a selection of Ottoman cuisine, and lamb features extensively. ’e interior meze that combine traditional and fusion in a French bistro- is as charming as the exterior, and is decorated with pieces style interior that manages to balance elegance and comfort. by the restaurant’s namesake, Turkish impressionist painter Rami Uluer. ’e enviable view from the top £oor is reason

70 71 WANDERLUST / Istanbul WANDERLUST / Istanbul

Where to Shop

stanbul is widely regarded as a shopper’s mecca. Bazaars are a must, starting with the Grand Bazaar (Büyük Çarşi), Gönül Paksoy TAR TAR which happens to be one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world. Here you’ll •nd a wide variety of Atiye Sokak 1, Harbiye Mallahesi, Nişantaşi, Şişli goods. A slightly less crowded and pushy alternative is the Arasta Bazaar. Meanwhile, the Spice Bazaar specialises in Boğazkesen Caddesi 66/A, , Beyoğlu / tartargoods.com spices, dried fruits and legumes, while most neighbourhoods hold their own weekly markets selling everything from food Turkish designer Dr Gönül Paksoy is more likely to be ’is is a small, unassuming store that might easily be missed, I described as an artist than a designer, choosing to but trust us, you don’t want to do that. Jewellery designer to kitchen equipment. If that’s not enough to keep you occupied, here are a few of our favourite stores around the city. display her new collections in museum-like spaces rather than Pinar Gercek founded the company in 2011 and based the on a catwalk. Most of her pieces are one-o°s, and are created name and logo on the work of Jean-Michel Basquiat, one of using antique Ottoman-era fabrics and carpets or hand-woven, her favourite artists. Working with a wide variety of materials A La Turca Ayşe Orberk hand-dyed textiles (she completed her PhD on natural dyes), (including rope, fabric, leather, brass, wood, metal, semi- Faikpaşa Yokuşu 4, Çukurcuma, Beyoğlu / alaturcahouse.com Turnacibaşi Sokak 51, Çukurcuma, Beyoğlu which are all hand-sewn. Her boutique is another must-see, precious stones, crystal and resin), Gercek makes each piece displaying her unique experimental creations: clothing, shoes, herself by hand. Her work is modern, playful and accessible, Quite simply a must-see. Owner Erkal Aksoy has created Not far from A La Turca, in both location and style, is Ayşe accessories, jewellery and books that Paksoy has authored or and is inspired by a variety of sources from ethnic/tribal dress an antiques emporium like no other in a charming four- Orberk’s outstanding eponymous antique store. Set in a century- edited, all in a stark but elegant space. to everyday found objects. storey townhouse in Çukurcuma, Istanbul’s most beloved old building, each of the three £oors is charmingly cluttered antiques district. ’e experience of entering the store is akin with furniture, silverware, crystalware, antique books, paintings to Alice getting lost down the rabbit hole. You may never and other treasures. Nyks Yastik by Rifat Özbek •nd your way out, and we’re betting you won’t mind one Serdar-i Ekrem Caddesi 49/1A, Şahkulu Mahallesi, Karaköy, Şakayik Sokak, Olcay Apt 13/1, Teşvikiye, Nişantaşi, Şişli / bit. ’e store is merchandised to resemble a house — one Beyoğlu / nyks.com.tr yastikbyrifatozbek.com of a frenzied but elegant and knowledgeable collector. Here BNG Design ’e name of this lovely candle boutique is derived from the Turkish designer Rifat Özbek, who studied fashion and you’ll •nd furniture, lighting, ceramics, art and of course Müze Sokak 34, Piri Mehmet Paşa Mallahesi, Hasköy, Beyoğlu / Turkish spelling for the Greek Goddess of the Night — architecture at what is now known as Central Saint Martins rugs. You are in Turkey, after all… bng-design.com Nyx, creator of both brightness and day. Co-founders Merve College in , turned his skills to producing cushions Founded by Turkish fashion designers Bülent and Nilgün Tatari and Deniz Yurtkuran opened the store just last year (yastik is the Turkish word for cushion or pillow) in 2005. Antijen Design Gülen in 2004, BNG was the •rst Turkish brand to show at the but are already attracting a lot of attention. ’eir candles Özbek is known worldwide for his use of exuberant colours prestigious Fashion Week. ’eir designs have a modern Lüks Apt 9B, Yeni Carşi Caddesi, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu are hand made from organic materials — they’re olive oil- and traditional hand-woven silk ikat and hand-embroidered yet timeless edge which we love and can be purchased directly based as opposed to being made from para¦n wax, so you suzani textiles. His £agship store in Istanbul is a clean, gallery- Designer Nilüfer Karaca’s boutique Antijen Design is located on from their boutique, located inside a restored 18th-century won’t be inhaling any chemicals — and contain pure essential like space that will have you lusting after all the merchandise. the fashionable Yeni Carşi Caddesi strip, just a few steps from building in the Beyoğlu district. oils sourced locally like laurel, thyme, bergamot, mandarin, the uber-trendy Munferit bar and restaurant. All of the pieces rosemary, lavender and cinnamon. ’e candles are sold in are made on site — in fact, her atelier is visible at the back of Deniz Tunc beautiful reusable containers of either copper or naturally the boutique. We particularly loved the dresses, which have an pigmented glass. Guilt-free shopping — you have to love that. urban, architectural edge to them. Ada Apt 22/2, Abdi Ipekçi Caddesi, Nişantaşi, Şişli / deniztunc.com Autoban Gallery Local designer Deniz Tunc studied both set design and industrial Süleyman Seba Caddesi 16–20, Sinanpaşa Mallahesi, Beşiktaş / design, and calls herself an ‘ambience consultant’. Tunc opened autoban212.com her Nişantaşi boutique in 2000, when she launched her •rst furniture collection Neo-Ottoman. ’e name says it all — her Seyhan Özdemir and Sefer Çağlar, the creative duo behind work is a contemporary take on the rich culture and ’s most famous design •rm Autoban, are also responsible her home country. for some outstanding pieces of furniture and lighting design, produced predominantly for the De La Espada brand. You’ll see their designs around the city, notably in the House Cafes and House Hotels, and here you have the opportunity to purchase something for yourself.

A La Turca Yastik by Rifat Özbek

72 73 HGK_A_195x265 20July ENG.pdf 1 15年7月20日 下午4:55

WANDERLUST / Istanbul

Cultural Destinations

Arter will have you wandering the streets looking at everyone and everything, trying to spot the protagonist, his lover İstiklal Caddesi 211, Beyoğlu / www.arter.org.tr and the apartment block that was the backdrop to their Arter, a contemporary art institution, was founded in 2010 regular trysts. It’s essential for a visit to this museum, and as a platform for exhibiting contemporary art. ’e space the museum should de•nitely be on your list. hosts regularly rotating exhibitions by the likes of Marc Quinn and Kutluğ Ataman. Borusan Contemporary Meşrutiyet Caddesi 65, Tepebaşi, Beyoğlu / peramuzesi.org.tr Baltalimani Hisar Sokak, Perili Köşk 5, Rumelihisari, Sariyer / Ever since its opening in 2005, Pera Museum has borusancontemporary.com brought a massive programme of curated exhibitions Located in the ‘Haunted Mansion’, one of the most including , Joan Miró, Akira Kurosawa, Marc signi•cant historical buildings in the charming Chagall, , Fernando Botero, Rumelihisari neighbourhood along the Bosphorus, and Francisco Goya. More recently, the private museum Borusan Contemporary is one of Istanbul’s most organised the •rst major exhibition of sculptor and painter in Turkey, in collaboration with the successful art spaces. ’e site-speci•c installations and C well-curated new media and experimental pieces help Giacometti Foundation in . propel Borusan towards its ambition — to place Turkish M art in an international context. Pilot Galeri Y CM Siraselviler Caddesi 83/2, Cihangir, Beyoğlu / pilotgaleri.com Istanbul Modern MY Pilot was founded back in 2011 to function as a multi- Meclis-i Mebusan Caddesi, Liman İşletmeleri Sahasi Antrepo 4, CY Karaköy, Beyoğlu / istanbulmodern.org functional art space, and it has become an established art institution in no time. One recent outstanding exhibitionCMY Istanbul’s •rst private museum dedicated to modern art consisted of the latest works by Halil Altindere,K a occupies a large warehouse on Galata Pier, and is always successful contemporary artist focusing on the resistance worth the trip. Its waterfront location makes a visit even to repressive structures and marginalisation within o¦cial more worthwhile when the weather is sunny, and is best systems of representation. ’e space next door, Co-Pilot, enjoyed at the museum’s outdoor terrace overlooking regularly organises talks, forums, screenings, performances the Bosphorus. Istanbul Modern teams up with the and workshops. MoMA each year to bring the YAP Istanbul Modern: Young Architects Programme. Salt Museum of Innocence 11, Karaköy, Beyoğlu / saltonline.org Çukurcuma Caddesi, Dalgiç Çikmazi 2, Çukurcuma, Beyoğlu / Salt is a non-pro•t, experimental and innovative art en.masumiyetmuzesi.org museum located within the former Imperial Ottoman We highly recommend you read the book of the same title Bank headquarters designed by the French architect by renowned Turkish author and Nobel Prize recipient Alexandre Vallaury in the 19th century. ’e museum is Orhan Pamuk before embarking on a trip to Istanbul, let directed by Vasif Kortun, who is listed among the 100 most alone the museum. It’s a desperately tragic novel that powerful •gures in the contemporary art world.

Design Anthology’s ¨ights to and from Istanbul were kindly provided by Turkish Airlines.

74 WANDERLUST / Istanbul

Seyhan Özdemir & Sefer Çağlar’s Istanbul Favourites

hile Istanbul has certainly become a design city on an international level, Autoban is still arguably the country’s best-known design studio. Responsible for some of Istanbul’s most achingly hip dining destinations and hotels, Autoban has also designed several collections of furniture and lighting for international brand De La Espada. ’eirW style is instantly recognisable and has helped catapult them beyond hometown stardom. Founders and creative directors Seyhan Özdemir and Sefer Çağlar share with Design Anthology some of their favourite Istanbul destinations.

290 sqm: ’is is the Istanbul outpost of the Amsterdam- Magnolia Culture: A bookstore and more, since there based lifestyle store. Alongside hard-to-•nd Nike Airs are also decorative objects on sale. We were delighted to and apparel from the likes of Raf Simons x Fred Perry, the see our own book Autoban: Form. Function. Experience. store also o°ers magazines and co°ee table books. Serdar-i published by Gestalten displayed in the window of this Ekrem Caddesi 27A, Karaköy, Beyoğlu / 290sqm.com beautiful store. Hüsrev Gerede Caddesi 94, Teşvikiye, Nişantaşi, Şişli / facebook.com/magnoliaculture Bey: Bey means ‘man’ in Turkish, and this contemporary menswear store located in Karaköy carries brands like Münferit: Opened in 2010, Münferit (see top of facing A.P.C. and SANDRO, to name a few. Mumhane Caddesi page) brought a contemporary and international approach 54/1, Kemankeş Mahallesi, Karaköy, Beyoğlu / beykarakoy.com to the traditional Turkish meyhane culture, and has quickly become a classic among the city’s •ne diners. Best food Gaspar: Housed in an early 20th-century building that ever. Yeni Carsi Caddesi 19, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu / was originally erected to function as a letterpress printing munferit.com.tr Clockwise from top: Münferit, Nopa and Gaspar, all designed by Autoban house, Gaspar (see bottom left of facing page) is the sibling restaurant/bar of Münferit, overseen by the same e bar with no name: ’ere is this tiny bar tucked away self-taught chef Ferit Sarper. ’e food is a well-blended in one of the many side streets of Beyoğlu. ’e owners, mix of local and international £avours designed for one a self-taught mixologist, the other an entrepreneur of sharing. Necati Bey Caddesi/Arapoğlan Sokak 6, Mueyyetzade all sorts, didn’t even bother to name their bar. Serving old- Mahallesi, Karaköy, Beyoğlu school cocktails in a very intimate space, the bar is one of the best-kept secrets in the city. Gönül Sokak 7B, Asmali Gram: We wouldn’t know what we were having for lunch, Mescit Mahallesi, Beyoğlu if Gram, with whom we share the same street, didn’t exist. ’is is a small, lunch-only eatery o°ering a wide range Coming soon and we are very much excited about… of cold dishes as well as a few hot dishes, which rotate on a regular basis depending on what the season o°ers. Autoban Bomonti Design Base: Towards the end of the At Gram, the food is always good and healthy. Meşrutiyet year we’re moving our head o¦ce to the Bomonti Culture Caddesi 107D, Asmali Mescit Mahallesi, Beyoğlu and Entertainment Center, which is a complex being converted from a historic brewery. We will not only move MaeZae: ’is store, also in Karaköy, feels like you are our o¦ces but also will create a design base featuring a at a friend’s apartment and going through his or her design library, workshop areas, design market, etc. belongings. From Marvis toothpastes to handmade ceramic objects and vintage one-o° furniture pieces, there’s so much you’d want to borrow from that friend. Hoca Tahsin Sokak 6/A, Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mahallesi, Karaköy, Beyoğlu / maezae.com

76