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SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS 273 Mikumi National Park Songea © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Iringa Njombe Ruaha National Park Tukuyu Mbeya Lake Nyasa

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SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS 273 Mikumi National Park Songea © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Iringa Njombe Ruaha National Park Tukuyu Mbeya Lake Nyasa © Lonely Planet Publications 273 Southern Highlands Green hills rolling to the horizon, lively markets overflowing with produce, jacaranda-lined streets and wildlife are among the attractions that await you in Tanzania’s scenic and often overlooked Southern Highlands. Officially, the Highlands begin at the Makambako Gap, about halfway between Iringa and Mbeya, and extend southwards into Malawi. In this guide, the term is used to designate the entire region along the mountainous chain running between Morogoro in the east and Lake Nyasa and the Zambian border in the west. In addition to being beautiful, the Highlands are also one of Tanzania’s most important agricultural areas, producing a large proportion of the country’s maize, as well as coffee, tea and other crops. On the region’s eastern edge, near Morogoro, are the Uluguru Mountains – home to the matrilineal Luguru people and many unique plant and bird species. Just southwest of here is SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS the easily accessed Mikumi National Park, as well as Udzungwa Mountains National Park, an offbeat destination for hikers. Further west, past Iringa, is the sublime and unspoiled Ruaha National Park, with striking riverine scenery and one of Africa’s largest elephant populations. The heart of the Southern Highlands is in the far southwest, with secluded valleys, rolling hills and verdant mountains that cascade down to the tranquil and seldom-trodden shores of Lake Nyasa, where there is almost no tourist infrastructure. While many travellers pass through the Southern Highlands en route to or from Malawi or Zambia, few stop along the way, even though there is much of interest. Main roads are in generally good condition and there is a reasonable selection of accommodation. HIGHLIGHTS Sitting by the river in Ruaha National Park Mikumi National Park ( p286 ), taking in the magnificence of the Ruaha National Park wild Iringa Watching lions, wildebeest and buffaloes in Mikumi National Park ( p278 ) Mbeya Getting away from it all on the shores of Njombe Tukuyu Lake Nyasa ( p298 ) Exploring off the beaten track around Iringa Lake Nyasa ( p282 ), Njombe ( p289 ) or Songea ( p301 ) Songea Enjoying the green, rolling panoramas around Tukuyu ( p297 ) and Mbeya ( p295 ) 274 SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS •• Morogoro lonelyplanet.com 0 100 km SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS 0 60 miles B129 LEGEND Kongwa GR Game Reserve DODOMA Mpwapwa Kwadihombo NP National Park Kibaoni Kisigo GR To Dar es Salaam KitundaὈὈὈὈὈ (195km) Rungwa Rungwa Mtera Kilosa Morogoro River GR Reservoir Kipera Rungwa Mtera Dam Mgeta Makatapora Migole Bunduki UluguruMtns Kipembawe Nyangolo Mikumi Ruaha Mbuyuni Mikumi NP NP Kisaki Msosa River Ilula A7 ὈὈὈὈὈMsembeὈὈὈὈὈUdekwa Ὀ Idodi Luhombero Kidatu Kilombero Kalenga (2579m) B6 Great Ruaha Iringa Sanje Tungamalenga Udzungwa Great Ruaha River Tosamaganga Mang'ula Isimila Mountains Ruipa River NP Lake Rukwa Saza See Around Mbeya Map (p295) Mafinga Ifakara River y Little Ruaha e Ngomba ll a Lupiro V Rufiji River A7 A104 o Mufindi r ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈe Ὀ b Mahenge Chimala m o Selous Mbeya A104 l Mbalizi Makambako i GR Makambako K Ngozi Peak Kitulo Gap (2629m) Mt Rungwe NP (2960m) K ipe Uonga Tunduma Tukuyu nge re Range Luhuji River Bulongwa Kyela Njombe Matema Ibanda Itungi L ὈὈὈ Songwe River iv in Bridge g s t o n B4 Mbarangandu River Karonga e ZAMBIA L Lupingu a k Ludewa M e t n N s River y SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS MALAWI Manda a hu s hu a (Lake Malawi) (Lake a Ru ὈὈὈ Livingstonia Peramiho Lituhi A19 Songea Kitai To Masasi (160km) Mango Mbinga Liuli To Nkhata Mbamba Bay (30km) Bay Tunduru National Parks & Reserves Salaam southwest into Zambia, with tarmac The region’s parks include Mikumi ( p278 ) branch routes leading to Songea and to Kyela. and Ruaha ( p286 ) for wildlife-watching, Otherwise, everything is unsealed. Udzungwa Mountains ( p280 ) for hiking and Several ferries run on Lake Nyasa, with Kitulo ( p290 ) for taking in the beautiful pano- sporadic connections between towns on the ramas and wildflowers. Tanzanian side and between Tanzania and Malawi; see p357 . Getting There & Around Scheduled and charter flights, operated pri- MOROGORO marily by Coastal Aviation and Safari Airlink %023 / pop 250,000 ( p356 ), serve Mikumi, Ruaha, Iringa, Mufindi Bustling, sprawling Morogoro would be a and Mbeya during the dry season. An interna- fairly scruffy town were it not for its verdant tional airport is being built at Mbeya. setting at the foot of the Uluguru Mountains, Road travel is straightforward, thanks to which brood over the landscape from the the good tarmac highway (the southwestern southeast. The surrounding area is one of the part of which is a section of the Great North country’s breadbaskets, home to the prestig- Road on the Cape to Cairo route) from Dar es ious Sokoine University (Tanzania’s national Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS •• Morogoro 275 agricultural institute) and a major educa- Sleeping tional and mission station. While there are BUDGET few tourist attractions in Morogoro itself, it’s Princess Lodge (%0754-319159; Mahenge St; r without an unpretentious place, a good introduction bathroom Tsh7000) This lodge has clean, small no- to Tanzanian life outside Dar es Salaam and frills rooms, all with double bed, fan and net, the best base for hiking in the Ulugurus. plus helpful management and a good, cheap restaurant downstairs. It’s one block in from Information the main road in the town centre. IMMIGRATION OFFICE Mama Pierina’s (%0713-786913; Station St; d The immigration office is signposted about Tsh9000) The ageing Mama Pierina’s is in an 200m south of the main road, though visa agreeable location off the main road, but extensions generally must be handled in Dar rooms – all with nets and fan, and set around es Salaam. a tiny garden – are long past their prime, with decaying facilities and paper-thin walls. The INTERNET ACCESS attached restaurant serves up large portions Daus Internet Café (off Lumumba St; per hr Tsh1000; of unexciting food. h8am-10pm Sun-Fri, 7-10pm Sat) Around the corner Sofia Hotel (%023-260 4848; Mahenge St; s/d from Pira’s Supermarket, with a good connection. Tsh15,000/24,000, d without bathroomTsh9000) A long- Matanda Internet Café (Mahenge St; per hr Tsh500; standing place with small, dark rooms and a h8am-8pm) Next to Princess Lodge. restaurant. It’s diagonally opposite Princess Lodge. MEDICAL SERVICES Mt Uluguru Hotel (%023-260 3489; s/d Tsh15,000/ SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Bede Pharmacy (Mahenge St) 20,000, d with air-con Tsh30,000; a) A nondescript Morogoro Medical Stores Pharmacy (Old Dar es multistorey hotel worth a look for its central Salaam Rd) location. Rooms are reasonable (ask for one with a view) and there’s an inexpensive res- MONEY taurant and a large outdoor bar. It’s south of Exim Bank (Lumumba St) Opposite Pira’s Supermarket; the main road, off Mahenge St. ATM (MasterCard, Visa, Cirrus and Maestro). NBC (Old Dar es Salaam Rd) Changes cash; ATM (Visa only). MIDRANGE & TOP END Kola Hill Hotel (%023-260 3707; r with fan/air-con from POST & TELEPHONE Tsh16,500/22,800; a) Rooms here – all doubles or Main post office (Old Dar es Salaam Rd; h8am-5pm) twins, some with TV – are faded and noth- With card phones nearby. ing special, but the setting is tranquil, in a green and quiet area about 3km east of the TOURIST INFORMATION centre. It’s a reasonable choice if you have Chilunga Cultural Tourism (%0754-477582, 0713- your own transport. Meals are available. 663993; YWCA Compound, Rwegasore Rd) Organises hikes It’s about 300m off Old Dar es Salaam Rd in the Uluguru Mountains, village visits and other excur- along the Bigwa dalla-dalla (minibus) route sions – stop by the office for a sampling of the possibilities. (Tsh200 from town), and signposted opposite Prices average about Tsh20,000 per day for a guide, plus the Teachers’ College Morogoro. Taxis charge village and administration fees (these vary, depending Tsh2000 to Tsh3000. on the hike, but average Tsh3000 to Tsh7000 per person Morogoro Hotel (%023-261 3270/1/2; morogorohtl per hike). @morogoro.net; Rwegasore Rd; s/d/tr from US$30/45/65) Once a Morogoro institution, this is another Sights & Activities place that has seen better days, although it’s The market has good deals on textiles. With been spruced up recently. Accommodation is your own clubs, you could try the golf course in detached bungalows set in green grounds opposite Morogoro Hotel. about 1.5km off the main road and opposite Morogoro is a logical base for excur- the golf course. It’s popular for weddings and sions to Mikumi National Park ( p278 ) and other functions on weekends, which can mean Selous Game Reserve ( p311 ), although you’ll loud music until late. need to have your own vehicle or rent one Hotel Oasis (%023-261 4178, 0754-377602; hotel in Dar es Salaam, as they’re difficult to find [email protected]; Station St; s/d/tr incl breakfast in Morogoro. US$35/40/50; as) Faded but good-value 276 SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS •• Morogoro lonelyplanet.com 0 500 m MOROGORO 0 0.3 miles Train ACB Station D INFORMATION Bede Pharmacy...................... B2 To Kilakala 1 Secondary Chilunga Cultural Tourism.....2 C2 To Catchment Office (200m); Msamvu Roundabout (3km); School (500m); 1 Daus Internet Café.................3 B2 Main Bus Station (3km); Dragonaire's (3km); Exim Bank..............................4 B2 Chalinze (85km); Kola Hill Hotel (2.5km); Mikumi (120km); Station St Selous Game Reserve Immigration Office................5 D2 Lumumba St Banda St Dar es Salaam (195km); (155km) Main Post Office...................6
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