SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS 273 Mikumi National Park Songea © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Iringa Njombe Ruaha National Park Tukuyu Mbeya Lake Nyasa
Iringa ( p295 ) ( p301 ) Mbeya Songea ( p278 ) Ruaha National Park Ruaha National Park ( p289 ) or ( p297 ) and ( p298 ) Tukuyu Tukuyu Njombe around Lake Nyasa ( p286 ), taking in the magnificence of the p286 ( wild Park National Mikumi ( p282 ),
rolling panoramas Enjoying the green, of Getting away from it all on the shores around track Exploring off the beaten in Sitting by the river Watching lions, wildebeest and buffaloes in
HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS
While many travellers pass through the Southern Highlands en route to or from Malawi pass through the Southern Highlands en route While many travellers On the region’s eastern edge, near Morogoro, are the Uluguru Mountains – home to the the Uluguru near Morogoro, are edge, eastern On the region’s Officially, at the Makambako the Highlands begin Gap, about halfway between Iringa and
in generally good condition and there is a reasonable selection of accommodation. is a reasonable in generally good condition and there or Zambia, few stop along the way, even though there is much of interest. Main roads are Main roads are is much of interest. though there stop along the way, even or Zambia, few of Lake Nyasa, where there is almost no tourist infrastructure. is almost no there of Lake Nyasa, where hills and verdant mountains that cascade down to the tranquil and seldom-trodden shores mountains that cascade down to the tranquil and seldom-trodden shores hills and verdant The heartThe of the Southern Highlands is in the far southwest, with secluded valleys, rolling National Park, with striking riverine scenery and one of Africa’s largest elephant populations. elephant populations. largest with striking scenery and one of Africa’s riverine National Park, offbeat destination for hikers. Further west, past Iringa, is the sublime and unspoiled Ruaha Further offbeat destination for hikers. the easily accessed Mikumi National Park, as well as Udzungwa Mountains National Park, an National Park, as well as Udzungwa Mountains the easily accessed Mikumi Park, National matrilineal Luguru people and many unique plant and bird species. Just southwest of here is Just southwest of here bird species. people and many unique plant and matrilineal Luguru of the country’s maize, as well as coffee, tea and other crops. tea as well as coffee, of the country’s maize, are also one of Tanzania’s most important agricultural areas, producing a large proportion most important producing a large agricultural areas, also one of Tanzania’s are Nyasa and the Zambian border in the west. In addition to being beautiful, the Highlands border in the west. In addition to being beautiful, Nyasa and the Zambian entire region along the mountainous chain running between Morogoro in the east and Lake along the mountainous chain running between region entire Mbeya, and extend southwards into Malawi. In this guide, the term is used to designate the the is used to designate into Malawi. In this guide, the term southwards Mbeya, and extend overlooked Southern Highlands. overlooked streets and wildlife are among the attractions that await you in Tanzania’s scenic and often scenic and often the attractions among that await you in Tanzania’s are and wildlife streets Green hills rolling to the horizon, lively markets overflowing jacaranda-lined with produce, to the horizon, lively hills rolling Green Southern Highlands Ὀ
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Road on the Cape to Cairo route) fromDar es toCairo Road on the Cape part of of which is a section theGreat North (thesouthwestern highway the goodtarmac tional airportisbeing built at Mbeya. Aninterna- and Mbeyaduringthedryseason. ( p356 Mikumi,Ruaha,Iringa,Mufindi ), serve Aviationmarily byCoastal andSafariAirlink Scheduled andcharter operated pri- flights, ramas and wildflowers. Kitulo ( wildlife-watching, p290 inthebeautifulpano- ) fortaking for ( Udzungwa Mountains (p286) p280 ) forhikingand Ruaha and The region’s parksincludeMikumi( p278 ) 274 Getting There&Around National Parks&Reserves Tunduma Lake Rukwa
Rungwa SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Road travel thanksto isstraightforward, NP GR LEGEND ZAMBIA Ngomba Saza OTENHGLNS • oooo SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS••Morogoro Kitunda Mbalizi
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Rufiji River Morogoro Ruaha Kipera Mgeta Kisaki To Masasi Selous (160km) GR (195km)
River Uluguru Mtns SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS
275 A long- A nondescript ) (minibus) route (minibus) route a 0713-786913; Station St; d Station St; d 0713-786913; 023-260 3489; s/d Tsh15,000/ 023-261 3270/1/2; morogorohtl % % ( Faded but good-value but good-value Faded ( 023-260 4848; Mahenge St; s/d
) % 023-261 4178, 0754-377602; hotel 0754-319159; Mahenge St; r without dalla-dalla )
( Rooms here – all doubles or Rooms here 023-260 3707; r with fan/air-con from
% ( % % a This lodge has clean, small no- has This lodge ( % (
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as The ageing Mama Pierina’s is in an Mama The ageing Morogoro Hotel Mt Uluguru Hotel Hotel Oasis Sofia Hotel Mama Pierina’s Sleeping Sleeping the golf course. It’s popular for weddings and It’s popular for the golf course. can mean which other functions on weekends, until late. loud music Tsh16,500/22,800; Tsh16,500/22,800; twins, some with TV faded and noth- – are ing special, but the setting is tranquil, in a the about 3km east of and quiet area green if you have choice It’s a reasonable centre. available. are your own transport. Meals 300m off Old Dar es Salaam Rd It’s about along the Bigwa opposite from town), and signposted (Tsh200 charge Taxis Morogoro. College the Teachers’ to Tsh3000. Tsh2000 Rd; s/d/tr from US$30/45/65) Rwegasore @morogoro.net; Once a Morogoro institution, this is another place that has seen days, although better it’s Accommodation is been spruced up recently. in detached bungalows set grounds in green about 1.5km off road and opposite the main Tsh15,000/24,000, d without bathroomTsh9000) Tsh15,000/24,000, standinga place with small, dark rooms and Princess opposite It’s diagonally restaurant. Lodge. MIDRANGE & TOP END Kola Hill Hotel BUDGET BUDGET Princess Lodge bathroom Tsh7000) and net, all with double bed, fan frills rooms, cheap and a good, management plus helpful one block in from It’s downstairs. restaurant town centre. in the the main road Tsh9000) the main road, but location off agreeable fan, and setrooms – all with nets and around long past their prime, with a tiny garden – are The walls. decaying facilities and paper-thin servesattached restaurant portions up large unexciting food. of [email protected]; Station St; s/d/tr incl breakfast Station St; s/d/tr incl breakfast [email protected]; US$35/40/50; 20,000, d with air-con Tsh30,000; 20,000, d with air-con Tsh30,000; multistorey hotel worth a look for its central hotel multistorey (ask for one reasonable location. Rooms are res- an inexpensive with a view) and there’s It’s south of outdoor bar. taurant and a large St. Mahenge the main road, off
golf course 8am-5pm) h (Old Dar es •• Morogoro SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS 0754-477582, 0713- % ( (Mahenge St; per hr Tsh500; (off Lumumba St; per hr Tsh1000; St; per hr Tsh1000; (off Lumumba (Old Dar es Salaam Rd; (Mahenge St) has good deals on textiles. With has good deals on textiles.
(Lumumba St) Opposite Pira’s Supermarket;St) Opposite Pira’s (Lumumba
market (Old Dar es Salaam Rd) Changes cash; ATM (Visa only). (Visa (Old Dar es Salaam Rd) Changes cash; ATM 8am-8pm) Next to Princess Lodge. 8am-8pm) Next to Princess 8am-10pm Sun-Fri, Sat) Around the corner 7-10pm
Morogoro is a logical base for excur- Information Information opposite Morogoro Hotel. opposite With card phones nearby. With card phones Salaam Rd) h 663993; YWCA Compound, Rwegasore Rd) Organises hikes663993; YWCA Compound, Rwegasore in the Uluguru Mountains, village visits and other excur- sions – stop by the office for a sampling of the possibilities. per day for a guide, plus Prices average about Tsh20,000 (these vary, depending village and administration fees per person to Tsh7000 on the hike, but average Tsh3000 per hike). h connection. Supermarket, a good with from Pira’s need to have your own vehicle or rent one or rent vehicle your own need to have difficult to find in Dar es Salaam, as they’re in Morogoro. sions to Mikumi National Park ( p278 ) and p278 ( sions to Mikumi National Park ), although you’ll p311 Selous Game Reserve ( your own clubs, you could try the Sights & Activities Sights & Activities The TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION Chilunga Cultural Tourism Main post office POST & TELEPHONE POST & TELEPHONE NBC MONEY MONEY Exim Bank Bede Pharmacy Morogoro Medical Stores Pharmacy MEDICAL SERVICES MEDICAL SERVICES Matanda Internet Café Daus Internet Café INTERNET ACCESS INTERNET ACCESS extensions generally must be handled in Dar must be generally extensions es Salaam. The immigration office is signposted about The immigration office is signposted though the main road, visa200m south of IMMIGRATION OFFICE OFFICE IMMIGRATION few tourist attractions in Morogoro itself, attractions in Morogoro tourist it’s few place, a good introduction an unpretentious Dar es Salaam and outside life to Tanzanian the Ulugurus. the best base for hiking in agricultural institute) and a major educa- and a major institute) agricultural are station. and mission tional there While Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book ATM (MasterCard, Visa, Cirrus and Maestro). (MasterCard, Visa, Cirrus and ATM SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS and a restaurant; next doortoNew and arestaurant; next Acropol Hotel. Tsh45,000) rooms Small, albeitcleanandwell-equipped, Hilux Hotel Hotel Hilux Also recommended: es Salaam Rd. east of town,about 700moff theOldDar come withTV. It’ssignposted about2.5km ette, whiledownstairs are twodoubles.All doublesandakitchen-with twoattached lawn. Located upstairs isa familysuite modern roomsoverlooking anexpansive Tsh50,000; for sippingan afternoon drink. porch overlooking thesmallgardens–ideal bed), aclassyrestaurant, acosybarand fridge andlarge double rooms (allwithTV, style hotel hasspacious,well-decorated Tsh45,000/55,000, steTsh80,000; www.newacropolhotel.biz; OldDaresSalaamRd;s/dfrom and Chinese dishes. continental goodIndiancuisine,plus restaurant serving fridge –plusgrassygroundsandapopular andsmall rooms –allwithfan,air-con, TV 276 1 3 2 MOROGORO Dragonaire’s New AcropolHotel ofTanzania...... NBC...... Matanda InternetCafé...... (see18) Main PostOffice...... Immigration Office...... Exim Bank...... Daus InternetCafé...... Chilunga CulturalTourism..... Bede Pharmacy...... Dalla-Dalla &TaxiStand...... Dalla-Dalla &TaxiStand...... Princess Lodge...... (see18) Pira's Supermarket...... New GreenRestaurant...... New AcropolHotel...... (see17) Sofia Hotel...... Princess Lodge...... New AcropolHotel...... Mt UluguruHotel...... Morogoro Hotel...... Mama Pierina's...... Hotel Oasis...... Hilux Hotel...... Market...... Golf Course...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Wildlife ConservationSociety C2 Pharmacy...... Morogoro MedicalStores OTENHGLNS • oooo SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS••Morogoro a ( AC % ) This restaurant hasfour new, 023-261 3946;OldDar es SalaamRd;r
( %
( 0787-117368; rinclbreakfast % 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 23 22 023-261 3403,0754-309410; 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
B2 B2 B2 C2 B2 B2 D1 B2 D3 C1 C1 D1 B2 C3 C2 C2 C2 D2 B2 B2 C2 B2
ai Lumumba St Lumumba 11
23
Madaraka Rd Buildings (2.5km) St Makongoro
Administration Uhuru St Uhuru To Sokoine (3km) University To Regional ) ThisB&B- To CatchmentOffice(200m); 1 Msamvu Roundabout(3km); 19
Main BusStation(3km); B Dar esSalaam(195km); Mahenge St Mahenge 18 Mikumi (120km); Chalinze (85km); Iringa (310km) 16
4
3 Boma Rd Boma 21
Old Dar es Salaam Rd ὈὈ ὈὈ
22 Morogoro River Morogoro 7 Princess Lodge Princess Eating &Drinking from Tsh10,000; www.newacropolhotel.biz; OldDaresSalaamRd;meals to stopbyonanup day,it’sa good choice. tends tovary,butifyou’re luckyenough service or fish andchips. Thequalityof cuisineand cluding vegetarian meals,plusgrilledchicken placewith Indiandishes, in- A long-standing meals Tsh5000-8000; Rd. Salaam east of town,about theOldDares 700moff karaoke It’ssignposted about2.5km nights. food canbevery long.FridayandSaturdayare farecontinental waitsfor –allgood,though dishes, plussteak, andother Chinese lasagne weekends. Therest of themenuismainly children’s pizzason playgroundandtasty Sat &Sun) meals fromTsh5000; in ‘30minutes or less’. inexpensive localdishes,withmealspromised Tsh1500; Dragonaire’s New AcropolHotel Restaurant New Green
Kitope Rd Monument 20 Library Stadium Jamhuri h Uhuru
Expansive, green grounds,asmall
Ma Mosque
breakfast, lunch&dinner)
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upa Course Rd Golf 0.3miles 500m 0 0 h 8 6 ( 10 %
( % 9 2 Tue-Sun) h
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0754-319159; Mahenge St;mealsfrom 0754-319159; Mahenge Rwegasore Rd Rwegasore 14 0787-117368; pizzaTsh3000-6000, ( lunch &dinner,closeddinnerSun) 3-11pm Mon-Fri, 11am-midnight 3-11pm Mon-Fri, 13
% Kitope Rd Kitope
Catholic ( Church % 023-261 3403,0754-309410; Morogoro’s classiest Station St Morogoro Regional Hospital
Station
Train 023-261 4021; Station St; 023-261 4021;StationSt; St Banda 15
lonelyplanet.com
A goodbetfor Kola HillHotel(2.5km);
Kingalu Rd Selous GameReserve 17 D Dragonaire's (3km); Adventist Church Seventh Day 5 12 School (500m); To Kilakala Secondary (155km)
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS
277 ). It’s cha- , about 2½ , about 2½ dalla-dalla Bunduki (2147m), the highest point in (2147m), the highest point in 023-261 3122; [email protected]; 023-261 3122; [email protected]; % in Morogoro. It’s 1.5km north of the town in Morogoro. (WCST; Scandinavian Express buses go daily to buses Express to go daily Scandinavian in a taxi and Tsh200 in a in a taxi and Tsh200 need things – you’ll order to no real otic, with find buses to to your destina- to ask where officeis on Express tion. The Scandinavian in its own the roundabout of the other side quieter. much and compound, and Dar Iringa, Mbeya Dodoma, Mikumi, in Morogoro, none originate es Salaam, but so you’ll need to book in advance at the Smaller buses office. to Dar es Scandinavian throughout the day, from 5.45am Salaam leave , in collaboration with the Uluguru Mountains , in collaboration with the Uluguru Mountains Tourist Information for the Uluguru Mountains, Lupanga Peak Lupanga
nouvelle nouvelle 7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) h ( Pira’s Supermarket , an old German mountain hut to the south of town at about 1000m. The path, path, at about 1000m. The , an old German mountain hut to the south of town SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS •• Morogoro Catchment Office Catchment . Wildlife Conservation Society of Tanzania Conservation Society of Tanzania Wildlife Morningside –style meals, a well-stocked bar and bar meals, a well-stocked –style Another possibility from town is the hike to The main tribal group in the Ulugurus are the matrilineal Luguru, who earn their living primarily who earn their living primarily the matrilineal Luguru, tribal group in the Ulugurus are main The ) in Morogoro. p275 hiking Tourism ( best contact for organising The guides is Chilunga Cultural The The the immediate vicinity, although views from the top are obscured by the forest. The starting The by the forest. obscured top are vicinity, although views from the the immediate point is at Kilakala is trek es Salaam Rd. The Secondary School, 1km east of town off Old Dar hours booklet mentioned below; it takes about five detailed in the Uluguru tourist-information Since part you’ll need to first get a permit (Tsh5000) reserve, return. of the hike is in the forest from the 1st fl, Bodi ya Pamba Bldg, Old Dar es Salaam Rd, Morogoro) 1st fl, Bodi ya Pamba centre on the road to Msamvu junction, in an unmarked building on the left just after crossing on the road to Msamvu junction, crossing in an unmarked building on the left just after centre cultural walks from also various are There the second set of railway tracks. with detailed route descriptions and information on places to stay. It’s for sale at the WCST of- descriptions and information with detailed route at www.africanconservation.com/uluguru fice in Morogoro or can be downloaded for free (click then on Section 4). on Contents, Biodiversity ConservationBiodiversity Project, has published HIKING IN THE ULUGURU MOUNTAINS MOUNTAINS HIKING IN THE ULUGURU of Morogoro, dominating vistas Uluguru Mountains rise up from the plains just southeast The oldest original the mountains contain some of Africa’s Arc chain, of the Eastern from town. Part unique species, such as the include many These of birds, plants and insects. plus a wealth forest age and as far as in East Africa, area mountain-forest only comparable The Uluguru bush shrike. ). p168 is the Usambara Mountains ( concerned, endemism are density in the Ulugurus, most of Due to the high population agriculture. through subsistence on the hillsides – with – you’ll see this immediately has been depleted cover forest the original has led deforestation This on the upper slopes. patches remaining small protected only a few erosion. to severe from Morogoro shortest The route with a jacket, as it can rain at any time of year. Come prepared is to which can easily be done in half a day return, starts at the regional administration buildings about administration buildings about startswhich can easily be done in half a day return, at the regional a track leads uphill and then curves here, 3km south of Morogoro at the end of Boma Rd. From the Morningside hut. reaching before forest to the right through small farm plots and degraded a small waterfall and supplies; there’s tent It’s possible to camp at Morningside with your own the border of the Uluguru or so to reach nearby. Once at Morningside, it takes another 40 minutes because of sensitivities to continue beyond here North generally not permitted It’s Reserve. Forest of has been a spate There communications tower higher up the slopes. about the Bondwe Peak by guides. accompanied including attacks on hikers who were recently, on this route muggings wanting to join your group and think arrive Don’t bring any valuables, be wary of strangers who you consider camping. twice before to three hours drive south of Morogoro, and best accessed with your own 4WD. Transport hours drive can to three per vehicle). also be arranged with Chilunga (about Tsh50,000 For self-catering try The main bus station is about 3km north of The main bus station 3km north of is about Salaam road, about town on the main Dar es Msamvu (Tsh2000 roundabout 300m east of BUS BUS (Lumumba Rd) (Lumumba & Away Getting There excellent local coffee (you can also buy some (you coffee excellent local home). take to restaurant, the New Acropol has New Acropol the restaurant, cuisine lonelyplanet.com SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS research centre. Among thevariousprojects two-hour drive southwest. NationalPark,Mountains which isabouta a combinationof MikumiwithUdzungwa Moreminimal trackdevelopment. feasible is (most operators goviaMorogoro) andonly rently noall-weatherroadlinkingthe two there’s although cur- GameReserve, Selous range,close plusdosome fine birding. lumberingbehemothsyou canwatch these at just northwestof themainentrygate, where Another attractionistheHippoPoolsarea, (‘Little Serengeti’) area particularlyrewarding. west of themainroad,withMillennium floodplain,tothenorth- around theMkata park. the pling of withinashort timeof these entering arespectableare sam- thatyou’llsee high leopards, crocodilesandmore, andchances elephants,lions,zebras, giraffes, wildebeests, to thesoutheast,Mikumihostsbuffaloes, the northwestandLumangoMountains to to thenortheast,RubehoMountains theUluguruMountains between sq km,set who don’thave much time. Withinits3230 forthose an idealdestinationforasafari of sightings most guaranteed wildlife, makes accessible fromDaresSalaamand,withal- fourth-largest nationalpark.It’salsothemost ecosystemof –isTanzania’s thevastSelous Lovely, butoften-underrated, Mikumi –part MIKUMI NATIONALPARK when open,it’smuch faster totravel via bus. ofthis section trackiscurrently Even closed. Line( Morogoro isontheCentral p361 ), but TRAIN office. post east alongOldDaresSalaamRdbefore the another market, where there rank.There’s isalsoataxi (Tsh5000, five hours), departing by 8am. originating in Dodoma. the route (nine hours), includingShabiby, 9am. about Mikumi andIringabeginpassingMorogoro from DaresSalaamgoingsouthwesttowards until about 4pm(Tsh2500, 3½hours). Buses 278 The bestandmostreliable viewingis The main To Tanga, there isadirect busdaily directTo Arusha, dailydo several buses Mikumi is an important educationaland Mikumi isanimportant To thesouth,Mikumiiscontiguous with OTENHGLNS • iuiNtoa ak NationalPark SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS••Mikumi dalla-dalla dalla-dalla stop and taxi rankfurther stopandtaxi stand isinfrontof stand the Sleeping &Eating disappointed. you south of andmayleave themainhighway, more heavily vegetated area of thepark,just rently beingdonealmostexclusively inthe areranged attheparkentrance,butthese cur- canbear-Two-hour guidedwalkingsafaris visit theparkorarrange anorganised tour. toeitherhaveyou’ll need yourownvehicle to booked anall-inclusive package). Otherwise, its guests(US$120forhalfaday,unlessyou’ve two lodges vehicles inthepark,hassafari for to 6.30pm.Foxes AfricanSafaris,which runs arethe park(off themainhighway) 6.30am den huts orshelters), the contact camp sites andpark are more widely scattered. Forbooking areas becomeinaccessibleandtheanimals (fromabout DecembertoMay)season some –duringtherainy it’s bestinthedryseason Mikumi canbevisited year-round, though five to15years. Forcampingfees see p77 . Entry fees are US$20/5peradult/child aged Information on the continent. handful of such long-term primate studies of yellowbaboons, which isoneof justa being carriedoutisanongoingfieldstudy along agrassy fieldfrequented bygrazing cuits, hasattractive stonecottages spread within easyaccess of themainwildlife cir- about 500mnortheast of theparkgate and [email protected]; s/dfull boardUS$160/280; cooking your own meals. be arranged andthere’s ashared kitchen for spare butspotlessandhave nets.Meals can shared andcleanhot-water bathrooms–are brickbungalows with rooms –inattached complex. The just behindthemainparkoffice are thenew plies. Better quarters; bringyourownfoodandothersup- parkhead- inadvancethrough be reserved There isalsoahostel for students,which must ters andischarged atspecialcamp-site rates. where can berequested frompark headquar- north of thepark;permission tocampelse- is aspecialcampsite nearChogaWaleinthe toilet facilitiesandonehasashower. There totheparkheadquarterstwo closest have The tobeself-sufficient. which you’llneed The parkhasfourordinarycampsites, for Mikumi WildlifeCamp Mikumi
( % 023-262 0487) Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels . Hours fordrivingwithin bandas (Kikoboga; (Kikoboga;
park bandas (thatched-roof % senior parkwar- s 022-260 0352/4; (s/d US$30/50) Kikoboga, )
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS
279 Several 023-262 0429; bill_willynm % (
A good shoestring choice, A good shoestring choice, 023-262 0421, 0784-402765; [email protected]; camping 023 Mikumi Health Centre Guest House St Kizito % quiet grounds of the Mikumi Health Centre. Centre. the Mikumi Health quiet grounds of and a is mosquito netting, hot water There if and meals can be arranged simple kitchen, for the small you bring your own food. Watch the road, just east signpost on the south side of Ifakara junction. the of Mountains National Parks, although it’s quite althoughit’s quite Mountains National Parks, to visit both without stayingpossible over- night here. Sleeping & Eating Kilimanjaro Village Inn [email protected]; without Main Highway; s/d Tsh6000/8000, bathroom Tsh3000/4000) rooms with nets and most with clean, no-frills It’s with fan, and meals for about Tsh3500. a bit away from the main truck park area, set about 1km east of back from the road the the Ifakara junction and just west of railway tracks. ( r per adult/child Tsh3500/7000) per person Tsh4000, simple rooms in small guesthouses set on the season with a well-equipped vehicle and a and a season vehicle with a well-equipped the area. who knows driver MIKUMI % the lowland towns along is the last of Mikumi it highwaythe Dar es Salaam–Mbeya before starts through its beautiful climb the Ruaha up into the hills and mountains gorge River the Southern Highlands.town itself The of is high- of kilometres out along a few stretched way and has an unmistakable truck-stop feel. as a transit almost exclusively interest It’s of point for visits to the Mikumi or Udzungwa this) and get their telephone number to con- number telephone their get this) and to stop they will remember them so firm with park gate. up at the and pick you CAR from drive a four-hour about is The park gate speedDar es Salaam; the section limits on of controlled main highway inside the park are 50km per during the day and (70km per hour roads in network of hour at night). A limited accessible with Mikumi’s northern section are the year; the south is a 2WD during most of road to Vuma Hills strictly 4WD, except the Camp.Mikumi with For combining Tented The Selous, is via Morogoro. the best route link the two areas rough tracks that directly steep in part and passable only in the dry are •• Mikumi SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS 0784-237422; www.tan %
( 0784-237422; www.tanzania % (
Under the same management as Vuma Under the same management This easily accessed and popular camp is ) ) Foxes Safari Camp
Also see the accommodation options in Vuma Hills Camp Tented the bus company (Scandinavian is best for the bus company (Scandinavian planning to continue from the park by bus, in advance with purchase your onward ticket Genesis Motel or Tan-Swiss Hotel (see Hotel the Genesis or Tan-Swiss Motel Mikumi town section, following). If you’re and organise transport to the park throughand organise one of the frequent special deals offered by Dar special deals offered the frequent one of ), or p88 (seees Salaam–based tour operators the bus to Mikumi town to take alternatively, travel in the early morning or evening, but the travel fast for decent viewing. Good too buses move options for visiting the park include budget sible to see animals along the roadside if you’re sible to see along the roadside if you’re animals passing through on a bus, especially if you and ask the driver to drop you off there), there there there), to drop you off and ask the driver park, so you’ll need at the rental is no vehicle in a rental your own car or arrange to have pos- It’s often the lodges. advance with one of via public transport (take any of the buses any of via public transport (take running along the Morogoro–Iringa highway BUS BUS Mikumi is easy of the gate to Although getting Mikumi town ( right ), 23km west. ), right Mikumi town ( Getting There & Around 6km off the tarmac road and accessed via a turn-off about 29km northeast of signposted park gate. the main in Mikumi’s northeastern section,in Mikumi’s northeastern with wide the surrounding Mkata It’s plains. views over to the rewarding wildlife-viewing circuits circuits wildlife-viewing to the rewarding and Mwanambogo dam around Chamgore Hills camp, this 12-tent upmarket camp camp upmarket Hills camp, this 12-tent is set with good access on a rocky outcrop safaris.info; s/d full board plus wildlife drivessafaris.info; s/d full board plus wildlife US$305/490; s choice. The turn-off is diagonally opposite the The turn-off is diagonally opposite choice. entry gate. park and a single bed, the mood is relaxed and and is relaxed and a single bed, the mood family the cuisine is good. A recommended with views over the plains in the distance. the The with views over a double have each cottages en-suite 16 tented s set the main road, on a rise of about 7km south zaniasafaris.info; s/d full board plus wildlife driveszaniasafaris.info; s/d full board plus wildlife US$305/490; Wildlife drives cost US$130/200 per vehicle per vehicle cost US$130/200 drives Wildlife day. half/full per from your front porch. A good family choice. choice. A good family porch. from your front zebras and gazelles and is good overall value. value. overall and is good and gazelles zebras to the highway,not a it’s its proximity Given don’t but the animals wilderness experience, seem see and you’ll probably to mind plenty Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS US$5, rperpersonUS$20,withhalfboardUS$35) pass Mikumi from 8.30am. (Tsh8000 toTsh12,000, 4½hours) to start toDaresSalaam5.30am. Goingeast, buses Kilombero toIringa, passingMikumiabout about 9am.There isalsoa direct bus from tion (Tsh6000, three tofourhours), from at theIfakarajunc- the dayfromstand fromMikumitoIringagothroughoutbuses wait untilonecomesbywithspace. Smaller ontheroadsideand tostand so you’llneed junction. Few originate inMikumi, buses just eastofthe mainhighway theIfakara ning about 9.30amandstoppingalong three hours), MbeyaandSongea, begin- ing Mikumienroute toIringa(Tsh6000, other linesfromDaresSalaambeginpass- at aboutnoon. thejunction es SalaamtoIfakarabuspasses junction justsouthof TheDar thehighway. leave thedayfromIfakara throughout hours) andontoIfakara(Tsh7000, 3½hours) NationalParkMountains (Tsh5500, two headingtowardsUdzungwaMinibuses Getting There&Away Parks, carrentals and other excursions. National Mikumi andUdzungwaMountains Tsh8000. canhelpyouorganise visitsto Staff a goodrestaurant-bar withmealsforabout fans, smallporches andwoodenfloors, and en-suite roomswithnets, four comfortable Swiss- andTanzanian-run has establishment Tsh3000, d/trTsh40,000/55,000) Rd;campingperperson 0784-246322; [email protected];Main Mikumi. from and canarrange overland excursions there also runsahotel nearKatavi NationalPark ings foronwardtravel. management Thesame vehicle per day),andcanhelpwithbusbook- NationalParksMountains (each US$100per to organise visitstoMikumiandUdzungwa isalsoagoodplace and akitchen. Genesis For campers, there are hot-water showers snakean attached park(adult/child US$5/2). are helpfulandthere’sstaff arestaurant and spaced rowalongflower-fringed walkways), newer ones,which are linedupinaclosely clean andfinefortheprice(askoneof the 2.5km eastof theIfakarajunction.Roomsare town, directly andabout onthemainhighway ficient hotel islocated ontheedge of Mikumi 280 Going west,Scandinavian Express and Tan-Swiss &Restaurant Hotel Motel Genesis OTENHGLNS • dugaMutisNtoa Pr SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS••UdzungwaMountainsNational Park
( % 023-262 0461;campingperperson Thisnewlyreopened
( % 0755-191827, Thisef- relatively few travellers comethiswayand Udzungwas aren’t onthewaytoanywhere, over the theplainscompensate. Plus,because of streams andwaterfalls andtheviewsdown time symphonyof forest therushing insects, hiking accompaniedbyaguide. Butthenight- tohaveyou’ll need yourowntent anddoyour overgrown. Infrastructure and isrudimentary are often muddy,steep, humidanddensely trailsthatdoexist network islimited andthose in hikingwellawayfrom the crowds. inclinedorinterestedfor anyonebotanically and makes anintriguingoffbeat destination newly discovered speciesof elephant shrew, ( faced sengi Tanzania’s otherparks)aswellthegrey- of primates (10species–more thaninanyof population the parkishometoanimportant In additiontoanabundance of uniqueplants, part of NationalPark.Udzungwa Mountains portionsofMountains, which are protected as the wild,lushly forested slopesof theUdzungwa about 350kmsouthwestof DaresSalaamare Towering steeply over theKilomberoPlains PARK UDZUNGWA MOUNTAINSNATIONAL day (ortwo longdaysifyou’re fit) hike upto sible. More three- isthe two-night, satisfying Falls from Sanjevillage theforest through to a short(three tofive hours), circuit butsteep, open there aswell.Themostpopularroute is in thewestandthere are trails nowseveral of hasstarted development thepark,although of thepark.Mosttrailsare ontheeastern side varioussections hiking trailswindingthrough there are major lesser abouteight andseveral along themain hiking routes. in thepark’ssouthwestandare seen seldom ticularly hipposandcrocodiles–are primarily –par-leopards, hipposandcrocodiles,these While there are also elephants,buffaloes, sightednearthepark’sboundaries. has been bey andtheUdzungwaforest partridge, which Iringa red colobus,theSanjecrested manga- of 1900sqkm.Amongitsresidents are therare you’ll often have mosttrails to yourself. need togo need the junction. bus stopsinfrontof thehotel andyoudon’t willhelpyouarrange thingssothatthe staff The going can be tough inparts:thetrailThe goingcanbetough The parkwasgazetted in1992withanarea There are noroadsinUdzungwa;instead, If you’re staying at Genesis orTan-Swiss,If you’re atGenesis staying , where swimmingandcamping are pos- Rhynchocyon udzungwensis lonelyplanet.com Sanje ) – a ) –a SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS 281 stand on 023-262 0218; This recently This recently %
( dalla-dalla 023-262 0239; r with/without bathroom % (
Twiga has no-frills rooms that are quite rooms that are Twiga has no-frills Twiga Hotel Udzungwa Mountain View Hotel There’s a tiny market in Mang’ula near the near Mang’ula in tiny market a There’s departures each morning from Ifakara, pass- each departures between 7am and noon; about ing Mang’ula park staff can help you with the connections. and Mikumi between Mang’ula The fare between Ifakara and is Tsh3500; (two hours) it’s Tsh3000. (two hours) Mang’ula clean rooms in a forested setting and a restau- clean rooms in a forested 500m south It’s about rant (set menu Tsh7500). main road. entrance, along the the park of Getting There & Away BUS Minibuses and pick-ups run daily between Mikumi town (from the you’ll need to way) and Kilombero, where wait for onward transport towards Mang’ula. the one of to wait for However, it’s faster buses coming from either Dar es direct larger Salaam or Morogoro to Ifakara and Mahenge Thesedepart both Morogoro via Mang’ula. and Dar between 6.30am and 10am, and pass 8.30am to 2pm. Mikumi any time from about several are there Going in the other direction, the others near a stream, though visitors though visitors near a stream, the others stay at them as they cost US$30/5 per rarely facilities, versus for the most basic adult/child for camping at Udzungwa US$5 per person and all Mountain Bring a tent View Hotel. about is signposted supplies. The main site also are There the park gate. 100m south of trails. longer several along the camp sites Tsh12,000) shoestring value, and meals avail- reasonable It’s just outside the park gate, able on order. and signposted. the road about 200m off camping per person US$5, r per person US$20) under the sameexpanded hotel, management as Genesis in Mikumi, has simple but Motel train station, town small one in another and station, the only both with of to the north selections.limited up It’s a good idea to stock es Salaam or Morogoro in Dar items on major be stayingand, if you’ll for a while, in the park dried fruit and nuts to of to bring a supply offer- the bland locally available supplement near usually find bottled water ings. You can the markets. Sleeping & Eating near rudimentary camp sites three are There and one with a shower park headquarters, the main high- the Ifakara road just south of
and the and the park headquar- Luhombero Peak Park National •• Udzungwa Mountains HIGHLANDS SOUTHERN (about to reopen). There There (about to reopen). (2080m), the park’s second-
023-262 0224; www.udzungwa.org) Lumemo Trail
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THE UDZUNGWA MOUNTAINS MOUNTAINS UDZUNGWA THE of endemism Udzungwas’ high degree The part, due, in large is to the and biodiversity millions of over climate constant area’s a chance to species has given years, which factor Another Udzungwas’ is the evolve. From the low-lying altitudinal range. south of the park (at ap- Kilombero Valley (the Peak 200m) to Luhombero proximately is con- there park’s highest point at 2579m), makingtinuous forest, this one of the few with continuous rainforest places in Africa span. such a great over The main entrance gate, the The main entrance gate, The park is best visited betweenThe park is best visited June and Information Information open at Msosa, about 10km off the main high- Mbuyuni, and at Udekwa, way just south of the park and accessed side of on the western via a turn-off highway from the main at Ilula it’s 60km further). Both will be (from where coming from Iringa or want useful if you are the west. from to climb Luhombero Peak senior park warden’s office are located in in located senior are park warden’s office Mikumi town along south of 60km Mang’ula, planned to the Ifakara road. Entry posts are ters things and time to get from park headquarters from park headquarters things and time to get the trailheads. to ally available at the park. For overnight hikes, hikes, For overnight at the park. ally available to organise allow an extra day at Mang’ula longer hikes). For birding, bring your own For birding, bring your hikes). longer not gener- field guidebook along, as they are companied by a guide (US$15 per day or companied by a guide (US$15 per day or necessary for US$25 for an armed ranger, Porter fees range between Tsh5000 and and between Tsh5000 range fees Porter the trail. per day, depending on Tsh9000 you’ll need to be ac- For all hikes, October. Entry fees are US$20/5 per adult/child aged aged US$20/5 per adult/child are Entry fees . p77 see For camping fees, to 15 years. five studded northwestern corner of the park the park corner of studded northwestern around Mbatwa Ranger Post and a multiday Luhombero Peak. trail from Udekwa up to six-day day trails in the baobab- also some shorter are it’s worth checking with park headquarters with park headquarters it’s worth checking the on this, as well as about for an update day trail from Mang’ula to day trail from Mang’ula although not cleared, (2579m) is currently Mwanihana Peak highest point. The challenging four- to five- four- highest point. The challenging lonelyplanet.com/hotels SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Ntoa Park. National centre andthegateway forvisitingRuaha agricultural animportant a districtcapital, tion againstthelocal Hehe people. Now it’s attheturn ofGermans thecenturyasabas- River, Iringawasinitially builtupbythe overlooking the valleyof theLittleRuaha a stop.Perched atacool1600moncliff introduction tolocallife andwellworth aslow-pacedSalaam toMbeyahighway, one of thenicesttownsalongDares feel, highland Iringa isalikeable place– lined withjacarandas,healthyclimate and streets setting, With itsattractive bluff-top % IRINGA south. further trains stoponlyatIfakara,about 50km you.Express fromthehotels willmeet staff quarters; ifyoumake advancearrangements, about a30-minute walkfromparkhead- isclass fromDaresSalaam).Thestation (Tsh10,000/6700/4900 for1st/2nd/economy Tazara ordinarytrainsstopatMang’ula TRAIN the western partof the park. forarrangingexcursionsthe bestcontact to Riverside inIringa ( Campsite opposite ) is orhavethe highway) yourowntransport. (feasible asit’sonly10kmoff forMsosa, towalkradic pick-ups,soyou’lleitherneed Udekwa entrygates, apartfromvery spo- reliable or public transporttotheMsosa Entering the parkfromthewest,there’s no able toarrange somethingwithparkstaff. take yourchancestransport orelse onbeing of yourown theparkbyroad;you’ll need to get fromMang’ula tothewestern side route isalongthemainroad.Allowaday one way).Ifyoudecidetowalk,theonly range aliftonparkvehicle (Tsh10,000 lorry. Withluck,youmaybeable toar- and Sanje(Tsh500) andtheoccasional are Mang’ula between sporadicminibuses is thetrailheadforafew of thehikes. There to Sanjevillage, 10kmtothenorth,which park gate (where you pay yourentryfee) Kilombero. from 5amand7am day fromIringaandbetween each direction, departingbyaroundmid- hours), there are dailyin one ortwobuses 282 Allow plentyof timeto get fromthe From IringatoKilombero(Tsh6000, five 026 /pop110,000 OTENHGLNS • rna SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS••Iringa Opposite Hasty Tasty Too. season), aswellreliable carrentals andexcursions. thelow walk-in ratesatsomeofthelodgesduring priced (sometimes includingfavourably safaris organise Ruaha 3pm Sat)Arecommended firststopandagoodplaceto hotmail.com; UhuruAve; Just off Uhuru Ave. only). western endoftown.ChangescashandhasanATM (Visa Hat Centre. Health h for uploading digital photos. Info;alsogood toIringa 8.30am-3pmSat&Sun)Next Fri, TOURIST INFORMATION TTCL Telecom Shop Post office POST &TELEPHONE NBC CRDB MONEY Myomboni Pharmacy HealthCentre Khan Aga MEDICAL SERVICES Skynet MR Hotel ACCESSINTERNET Mosque inated bytheimpressive German-built streetsame isIringa’smaintradingarea, dom- 1905and1907.Westalongthis ing between Africans whofell duringtheMaji Maji upris- front of isa thepolicestation, baskets, andiswellworthastroll.Nearby,in wares, includinglarge, locally madeIringa fruits andvegetables, pluscountlessother Iringa’s colourful Sights &Activities Tatanca &Tours Safaris Info Iringa from Neema Crafts. excursions elsewhere inthecountry;aroundcorner aswell safaris, Ruaha efficient operatoroffering UhuruAve)338335; [email protected]; An anywhere. the yellowsign),where calls costTsh2000 perminute to (lookfor shopdiagonallyoppositeTTCL try thisprivate Lutheran cathedralandnear the market. h Information 7.30am-7.30pm) Just downhill from the Aga Khan 7.30am-7.30pm) JustdownhillfromtheAga Khan 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat & Sun) Next tothe 8am-2pmSat&Sun)Next 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, (UhuruAve) OppositetheCatholiccathedralat Next tothepostoffice;sellsphonecards. Next (UhuruAve) ATM only). (Visa (UhuruAve; perhrTsh1000; withitsdistinctive clock tower. (Mkwawa Rd;perhrTsh1000; ( ( h % ( h 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noonSat) 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 026-270 1988;riversidecampsitetz@ 8am-7.30pm) Forcallingbooths, market h ( % ( ( % 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am- 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, % 026-270 2277/2617; 026-270 0601,0787- is piled high with ispiledhigh 026-270 2277;JamatSt; h lonelyplanet.com monument 8am-8pm Mon- h 8am-9pm) Ismaili tothe SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS
17 283 (275km) bandas, Rock (1km) To Dodoma To Gangilonga
Kawawa Rd hot-water hot-water C3 B3 C3
10
20 D Titi St Titi
27 28 29 30 31 18 St Selassie Haile 25 Not Depicted 22 Some Minor Roads banda, 7 Bendera St Hospital Arms Building Tanganyika Iringa District Hospital 26 16 21 2 heading towards Ilula and NMB Bank 3 00 600 m 0.4 miles 15 Park Uhuru Uhuru 8 Bus Station...... Stand..... Myomboni Dalla-Dalla Office..... Scandinavian Booking TRANSPORT Taxi Stand...... Taxi Stand...... C3 C2 13 Monument Roundabout 12 9 dalla-dalla B3 C2 D2 D2 D1 B3 D2 C2 D2 C3 B3 D2 28 Market (Sokoni) St 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 23 1 4 northeast of Iringa and signposted from from Iringa and signposted northeast of tranquil set- the main road, has a lovely, take a a take you off to drop at the turn- ask the driver it’s 1.5km further from where off (Tsh800), to Tsh15,000 Tsh10,000 charge on foot. Taxis from town. Staff can also help you arrange Ruaha safaris. and car rentals ting on the banks of the Little Ruaha River the Little Ruaha River ting on the banks of stop for families and budget and is a great green In addition to a shaded, travellers. it camping area, riverside and expansive tented pleasant twin-bedded offers stone a rustic six-person (breakfast/lunch/ good meals showers, and a small dinner Tsh3000/5000/5000) and other shop with charcoal campsite value, with basics. It’s excellent overall 50% for accommo- discounts of children’s to rent available are dation and meals. Tents per day), including for Ruaha sa- (Tsh5000 bicycles. The surrounding area faris, as are also on-site are is ideal for walking. There ranging courses and culture Swahili language and includ- from one day up to four months here, accommodation. To get ing full-board 11 5 31 30 Lutheran Cathedral
Mkwawa Rd 29 Miomboni St Miomboni 27 St Miskitini
14 ὈὈ ὈὈ Jamat St 19
24 Uhuru Ave Uhuru Gangilonga B Annex of Staff Inn...... Central Lodge...... Lodge.. Dr AJ Nsekela Executive Iringa Lutheran Centre...... Isimila Hotel...... 4) MR Hotel...... (see Lodge..... Staff Inn White House Best Snacks & Take Away...... Hasty Tasty Too...... Lulu's...... Mama Miho's...... Premji's Cash & Carry...... Saju's Home Cooking...... Neema Crafts...... D2 SLEEPING EATING SHOPPING •• Iringa SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS C3 D3 C3 C3 C3 C3 C2 C2 C3 C3 A3 D2 0755-033024, 0787- Commonwealth War 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 026-270 2489; Kawawa Rd; % (
% (
means ‘talking stone’ in means ‘talking in stone’ Riverside Campsite, 13km Campsite, 13km Riverside Catholic Cathedral with graves of the deceased of with graves 6 AC Station (2.5km); Riverside Campsite (13km); Isimila & The Old Farm House (50km) Morogoro (2km); Ipogoro Bus To Main Highway to Mbeya & Tosamaganga (15km); Kisolanza – ‘gangilonga’ INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES TTCL...... C3 Commonwealth War Graves Cemetery...... Ismaili Mosque...... Maji Maji Uprising Monument... Market...... Post Office...... (see 9) Post Office...... (see 3) Skynet...... (see Tatanca Safaris & Tours...... Telecom Shop...... Aga Khan Health Centre...... CRDB Bank...... Iringa Info...... MR Hotel...... Myomboni Pharmacy...... NBC Bank......
( Mosque
Riverside Campsite Riverside Campsite Southeast of town is a Southeast of Rising up to the northeast is IRINGA 2 3 1 To Kalenga Historical Museum (15km); Ruaha National Park (115km) the main road. the request. Breakfast is available with advance with advance is available Breakfast request. town, of edge It’s on the northeastern order. Neema Crafts andabout 700m southeast of dorm-style rooms with nets, including one on buckets single, and hot-water en-suite dm Tsh2500, s Tsh7000, s/d without bathroom Tsh3000,4000) s Tsh7000, dm Tsh2500, BUDGET BUDGET Iringa Lutheran Centre Sleeping Sleeping Graves Cemetery world wars. from both often meditated and where he learned that he learned that meditated and where often him. It’s an easy after the Germans were wide views are climb to the top, and there over town. Rock Mkwawa (p286) Chief is where which Hehe), Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book 111663; www.riversidecampsite-tanzania.com; camping tented/stone bandas per per- adult/child Tsh5000/2500, son Tsh7500/15,000) This long-standing place has reasonably cleanThis long-standing has reasonably place SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Ave; rTsh10,000-25,000) range food forRuaha camping safaris. get toasted packed sandwiches togo andar- ble mixof local andexpatclientele. Youcan sonably pricedmain dishes,plusanamena- Sun) meals fromTsh500; Hasty Tasty Too Eating a restaurant (meals Tsh4000). its opening,withfadedrooms(no nets) and hasdeclinedconsiderably since bus station convenient butnoisylocationnexttothe multi storey businesstravellers’ hotel ina .co.tz; MkwawaRd;s/d/steUS$30/35/40; of town.There’s no food. It’s onthemainroadatnorthernend less roomsandaninstitutionalambience. would suggest, thisplacehasclean but soul- asitsname in aformerschool, andasstaid % end of town. nextlisting)atthenorthern Academy (see there’s arestaurant. It’spasttheBankers’ en suite andwithnets–are goodvalue,and fering prices.Rooms–all aboutthesame asitdidnearlyadecadeagoandof- same this hotel isoneof them,lookingalmostthe Tsh12,000/14,000) Isimila Hotel MIDRANGE request. on bed. Hotbuckets of water canbeorganised have netsandmosthave asmalldouble ( including station, inthesmallvalleybehind thebushouses Info –lookfor the signpost. are intherowbehind. It’sjustbehind Iringa facing thegardenare spacious;smallerrooms tion aroundasmallgarden.Thefrontrooms with bathroomsinaconvenient centralloca- Tsh15,000-20,000, trTsh30,000) the bus station. main road,about five minutes’ walkfrom rant withinexpensive meals.It’salongthe plusarestau- water, netsandsomewithTV, reliable, withclean,no-frills roomswithhot 284 % MR Hotel Lodge Central Annex ofStaffInn Dr AJ Nsekela Executive Lodge Executive Nsekela Dr AJ There are manynondescript,noisyguest- Goodbreakfasts, yogurt, shakes andrea- 026-270 2407;UhuruAve; s/dTsh12,000/14,000) 026-270 0161;sTsh7000-15,000) OTENHGLNS • rna SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS••Iringa
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Some things never change Somethingsnever and %
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026-270 2006/2779;www.mrhotel ( % 026-270 2061;UhuruAve; snacks& 026-270 1194;UhuruAve; s/d 7.30am-8pm Mon-Sat,10am-2pm Staff Inn White HouseLodge Staff InnWhite Small andcrowdedbut ( % 0786-126888; UhuruAve; d 026-270 1344/0165;Uhuru Simple, quietrooms , where rooms
(Bankers’ Academy; (Bankers’ ai ) This Set corner fromtheTanganyika Arms building. It’sonasidelanejustaroundthe standards. meals, includingpizza,stir-fry and theusual Tsh3000-4500; lane runningparalleltothe main road. It’s atthenorthernendof town, onasmall makes anamenable stopforcheap localfood. from Tsh500; dalla-dalla dallas tinuing towardsMorogoro orMbeya. dropped offifyou’re arriving onabuscon- Iringa.passes Thisisalsowhere you’llget where by- theMorogoro–Mbeyahighway the escarpment(Tsh2000 fromtown), inataxi Ipogoro, about 3kmsoutheastof townbelow at togothemain busstation you’ll need To catch anybusnotoriginatinginIringa, &Carry Cash police andfire orthepricier stations, stocked supply of fresh rolls and bread. Rd. NextdoorisIringaBakery, withalimited southeast of themainroad, justoff Kawawa area.shaded outdoorseating It’soneblock icecream, milkshakesserve andanumbrella- andAsianmostly Chinese dishes, plussoft- h in town. All buses originating in Iringa start originating inIringastart in town. All buses Getting There&Away Lulu’s Best Snacks&Take Away Saju’s HomeCooking For self-catering trythesmallbutwell- For self-catering Fri, 9am-4.30pmSat) Fri, Uhuru Ave Rd; atKawawa Neema Crafts NEEMA CRAFTS TOURISMSPOTLIGHT:COMMUNITY corner. the wait.It’sjustpastNMBbankon isslow,butit’sworth ice cream. Service andpies and teas, homemadecookies and offering oflocalcoffee aselection Café, overlooking theweavingworkshop ing workshop,andupstairsistheGallery Adjoiningthecraftshopisaweav- cookies. and cards,jewellery,quiltshomemade and sellsbeautifulcrafts,hand-madepaper people –isoperated bytheAnglicanchurch centre forIringa’syoungdeafanddisabled 8.30am-3pm &6.30-9pmMon-Sat) toIpogoroleave fromtheMyomboni
( Mama Miho’s Mama % h
stand at the edge stand of Uhuru Park (Jamat St) (Jamat h 027-270 2122;Titi St;mealsTsh3500-8000; 7am-11pm) 7am-10pm)
([email protected]; off ([email protected]; . –avocationaltraining
(Haile Selassie St;snacks&meals (Haile Selassie
Thisfamily-runeatery (Jamat St) (Jamat h Tasty snacksand
( % 9am-5.30pm Mon- Aquietplacewith lonelyplanet.com 0784-356894; meals , opposite the Premji’s Premji’s Dalla-
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS
(ad- 285 dalla- stand dalla-dalla from the bus station Kalenga Historical Museum Kalenga Historical Museum contains Mkwawa’s skull and a , a pretty hilltop town about hilltop town about , a pretty dalla-dalla from the Myomboni A possible detour on bicycle is to nearby A possible detour on bicycle Isimila is signposted off the main road to the main road off Isimila is signposted Mtera Dam tric power stations. There’s also fine angling tric power stations. There’s fish, though at the dam, notably for tiger It’s beautiful in you’ll need your own gear. landscapes the rains, and the brush and reed birds. attract many water along the shoreline no accommodation. currently There’s Chief Mkwawa ( p286 ) had his headquarters ) had his headquarters p286 Chief Mkwawa ( Germans to the in the fell until Kalenga that he committed 1890s, and it was here suicide rather than succumb to the German forces. The small mission Tsh2000) It’s just off the from the era. other relics few and signposted. park road Iringa off 120km north of This dam, about reservoirthe Dodoma road, forms a huge as Ruaha River the Great of for the waters the Southern Highlands and it flows out of on its way through Park Ruaha National to join the Rufiji in Selous Game Reserve. hydroelec- major Tanzania’s Nearby is one of to the site. Alternatively, if you’re in a group, if you’re Alternatively, to the site. ya Tosa’ a ‘Njia Panda you can catch dalla you all the way in take to and ask the driver per is about Tsh1000 The charge to Isimila. only willing to are but most drivers person, enough people wanting are do this if there for the about Tsh10,000 charge Taxis to go. return trip. Tosamaganga mission station. Kalenga Iringa on the road to 15km from About is the famed former Ruaha National Park that It was here Kalenga. capital of Hehe need a guide (small tip expected). Visits are need Visits are tip expected). a guide (small before afternoon, or late the morning best in too high. museum A small the sun gets in to be gath- finds are Age all the Stone which in the (entry is included is being built ered picnic also a covered There’s admission price). and drink). own food (bring your area endurance for heat with a bit of the left, and and traffic, via bi- is straightforward reach to Via public transport, take cycle from Iringa. an Ifunda drop you at the Isimila to and ask the driver walk 20-minute it’s a junction, from where 7km southwest with a hospital and a goes goes , where, , where, 026-270 2308) 8am-5.30pm) % h (
stand (‘Myomboni’) is also stop along the edge also stop along the edge •• Around Iringa SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS dalla-dalla (admission Tsh3000; (admission Tsh3000; Dalla-dallas
To Mbeya, there’s a bus departing daily at a bus departing daily To Mbeya, there’s
To Dodoma, Kings Cross – an old relic of a of – an old relic To Dodoma, Kings Cross To Njombe (Tsh7000, 3½ hours) and and 3½ hours) To Njombe (Tsh7000, Scandinavian ExpressScandinavian Isimila (about one hour round-trip), for which you’ll (about one hour round-trip), for which cessed via a walk down into a steep valley particularly exciting, the surrounding area particularly exciting, the surrounding area is intriguing, with small canyons and eroded is ac- The main pillar area sandstone pillars. ever identified. The tools found at the site are are everidentified. The tools found at the site to be betweenestimated 60,000 and 100,000 old. Although the display itselfyears is not in the late 1950s, archaeologists unearthed 1950s, archaeologists in the late finds the most significant Stone Age one of About 20km from Iringa, off the Mbeya road, About is AROUND IRINGA AROUND IRINGA Isimila Stone Age Site road between station the bus and the mar- and at the Ipogoro MR Hotel, in front of ket, bus station. just down from the market and near the bus and near just down from the market station. along the small ranks are Taxi Park. Uhuru of Getting Around Getting Around The main all transport is via Morogoro, which is the all transport is via Morogoro, which Iringa if you leave take; most travellers route Dodoma in one day. If early, you can reach in Makatapora driving to Dodoma via you’re six hours. to car, allow five a private via Nyangolo and Makatapora. Otherwise, via Nyangolo and Makatapora. vehicle stuffed with chickens, baskets and pro- baskets stuffed with chickens, vehicle days on alternate duce – and Urafiki depart going nine to 10 hours), at 8am (Tsh10,000, with a second only departing bus to Njombe you can wait for the at 10am. Alternatively, Dar es Salaam (best bus from Scandinavian in advance). booked Songea (Tsh12,000, eight hours), Super Feo Super Feo eight hours), (Tsh12,000, Songea town bus station,departs at 6am from the (Ipogoro bus station) about 1pm, or just show that up at the station chances your take and be space. will there you can book a seat on the Scandinavian you can book a seat on the Scandinavian that passesbus from Dar es Salaam Iringa 8am (Tsh9000, four to five hours). Otherwise, hours). five four to 8am (Tsh9000, the Scandinavian booking office, opposite the opposite booking office, the Scandinavian in town. bus station daily to Dar es Salaam, leaving at 10.30am at es Salaam, leaving daily to Dar book in advance at 7½ hours); (Tsh15,000, at the bus stationat the also at and stop in town passengers. additional to pick up Ipogoro lonelyplanet.com SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS numbers of readily wildlife sighted (during combination of rugged riverine scenery,large reach areas where water remains. The overall when theyare bywildlife used ascorridors to most of which dryupduring thedryseason, rivers, theparkare ‘sand’ through several 1600m and1900m,respectively. Running inthesouthandwest reachingtains toabout ofoutcrops andstands baobabs, andmoun- with occasional rocky about 900minheight Much of itisundulatingplateau averaging the Great RuahaRiver –striking topography. crocodiles. and the eastern sideof thepark,asare hippos Great RuahaRiver, which windsthrough birds. Bird life isespeciallyprolificalongthe ante- sable and lopes, andmore than400different typesof roan cheetahs, ostriches, lesser kudus, Grant’s gazelles, herds of wild dogs, aswellgreater andbuffaloes, largest andsoontobeextended) hostslarge about 12,000,thepark(Tanzania’s second- elephants, which are estimated tonumber est elephantpopulations.Inadditiontothe providing hometooneof Tanzania’s larg- system covering about 40,000sqkmand forms thecore of awildandextended eco- areas, smallerconservation and several bouring RungwaandKisigoGameReserves Ruaha NationalPark, together withneigh- RUAHA NATIONALPARK 286 Ruaha is notable foritswildand–around Ruaha isnotable main road to Ruaha NationalPark.main roadtoRuaha (p285). Museum HistoricalToday, theskullofMkwawaandsomeoldweaponsare ondisplayattheKalenga ofSirEdwardTwining,thentheBritishgovernor totheefforts ofTanganyika.due, inlarge part, in1954.Thenot bytheHehe)untilitwasreturned return toKalenga ofMkwawa’sremains was headwascutoffandtheskullsenttoGermany,wherehim. His itsatalmostforgotten (though later, in1898,committed suicideratherthansurrender toacontingentthathadbeensentafter were Mkwawaescaped,but taken. counterattack atKalenga inwhichMkwawa’sheadquarters totheeast. further atKilosa, damaging attackonaGermanfort of Lugalo, road.The year,Mkwawa’stroopslauncheda next justoutsideIringaontheMikumi with theGermanswere rejected, hismentrouncedthecolonialtroopsininfamousbattle from western Tanzania toBagamoyo. In1891,after several attempts byMkwawatonegotiate after anotheruntil,bythelate 1880s,theywere threatening tradetrafficalongthecaravanroute tribesincentralTanzania.Hehe becameoneofthemostpowerful They overpowered onegroup had hisheadquarters. UnderMkwawa’sleadershipduringthesecondhalfof19thcentury, ers, isalegendaryfigure inTanzanian revered history.Heisparticularly inIringa,nearwhichhe Mkwawa,chief oftheHeheandoneGermancolonialism’smostvociferous resist- Mtwa (Chief) MKWAWA CHIEF OTENHGLNS • uh ainlPr NationalPark SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS••Ruaha The grave ofChiefMkwawaisabout40kmoutsideIringaandsignposted about11kmoffthe The GermansplacedabountyonMkwawa’sheadand,oncetheyhadregrouped, initiated a you’ll likely have Whenever thingstoyourself. season, apart fromtheAugusttoOctober high are sections parks. Large unexplored, and, few visitors incomparisonwiththenorthern Ruahareceives season, the high relatively the eastern sideof theparkfillsupduring unbeatable. is of andgoodselection camps the dryseason) wildlife alongthe river beds. Duringtherainy November, andthisiswhenit’s easiesttospot of year. Juneand isbetween Thedriestseason good andthepark canbevisited atanytime ted withintheparkfrom6am to 6.30pm. is openfrom7amto6pm.Driving permit- quarters are Themainentrygate atMsembe. by planecanpaytheirentryfees. Park head- east of themaingate, where visitors arriving airstrip,other atMsembe about 6kmnorth- the parkboundaryonitseastern side,andthe park, oneatthemaingate about8kminside p77. see tries are permitted. For accommodationfees, five to15per24-hourperiod;multipleen- Entry fees are US$20/5peradult/child aged Information quick in-and-out trip. spare; it’s not aplacetobediscovered ona asideasmuch timeasyoucan you visit,set Although theareaAlthough aroundthecampson The roadnetwork inRuahaisreasonably There are entrypointstothe twoofficial lonelyplanet.com SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Jun- 287 Jun-Mar; h A simple h This long- in the UK 020-8846 9363; 026-278 2196, 0754-983519; % (
% ( (www.jongomero.com; per person (www.jongomero.com;
(camping per person US$5)
This highly regarded 16-bed 16-bed This highly regarded Jun-Mar) h This exclusive camp is set on its own off This exclusive ) Chogela Camp Mwagusi Safari Camp Tungamalenga Camp Tungamalenga Jongomero Camp elephant or other animal wandering throughanimal wandering or other elephant in Dar es by Coastalcamp. It’s run Travels as luxurious as the ). While not p127 Salaam ( or hire one through Riverside Campsite in one through Riverside or hire Also bring your own food and drink. Iringa. ). p282 Info ( Book through Iringa www.ruahatungacamp.com; camping per person US$10, r per board US$20/40) person with breakfast/full about standing place in Tungamalenga village, some of the other Ruaha camps, however, the the some of the wilderness ambience is excellent. One of this camp is the privacy of nicest aspects of to unlikely and the fact that you’re tent each part of see Almost all visits are other visitors. nearby airstrip. fly-in safaris to the THE PARK OUTSIDE several the good places just outside are There park boundaries along the Tungamalenga vil- the left fork at the junction road (take lage from Iringa). when coming place with well-maintained, spacious, shaded clean cooking-dining area grounds, a large, Come with showers. and spotless hot-water your own transport and bring your own tent luxury tented camp is set in a prime location luxury tented elephants, by – favoured for wildlife-viewing – on the Mwagusi Sand among other visitors The about 20km inside the park gate. River views superb are there is intimate, atmosphere guiding is of and the quality from the tents can excursions Walks and other top-notch. be arranged. full board, airstrip & activities transfers US$550; the about 60km from Msembe on the banks of Its eight tents spacious Jongomero Sand River. made and furnishings verandas large have from wood. Wildlife-watching from recycled not as good as at the camp itself is arguably other Ruaha camps, it’s quite comfortable comfortable camps, it’s quite other Ruaha if you take natural in ambience, and and very Coastal’s a specials – including of advantage discount on a 50% that offers deal ‘last minute’ for packages combined accommodation-flight departure before hours than 72 bookings less a fine value for offers – Mdonya Old River Ruaha safari. Mar; s in the remote southwestern part of the park, the park, part of southwestern in the remote www.ruaha.org; all-inclusive from US$530/940; s/d
Jun- ban- h 022-245 2005; www •• Ruaha SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Park National % (
0784-237422; www.tanzania % (
accommodating four to five accommodating four to five bandas,
including some doubles and two larger and two larger including some doubles The rustic and relaxed Mdonya Old River Mdonya Old River The rustic and relaxed Ruaha River Lodge From June to January, it’s possible to or- it’s possible to January, From June
Mdonya Old River Camp the Mdonya Sand River, with the occasional the Mdonya Sand River, Camp, about 1½ hours drive from Msembe,Camp, drive about 1½ hours has eight set tents in the shade on the bank of .adventurecamps.co.tz; s/d all-inclusive US$345/580; .adventurecamps.co.tz; Mar) booked a fly-in package. Discounted drive-in drive-in Discounted a fly-in package. booked offered. are accommodation rates stunning riverine panoramas. Vehicle safaris Vehicle panoramas. stunning riverine unless you’ve cost from US$120 per vehicle and one single bed – are directly on the river, on the river, directly and one single bed – are with bar-terrace a treetop-level and there’s the feel of a smaller lodge. The recently re- The recently a smaller lodge. of the feel – all with one double modelled stone cottages rience in Ruaha, it’s centred on two separate rience in Ruaha, it’s centred giving sections, dining area, with its own each Fox family, who have several decades of expe- several decades of family, who have Fox safaris.info; s/d full board incl wildlife drivessafaris.info; s/d full board incl wildlife US$330/540) in the park was the first 15km inside the gate Run by the and is the only place on the river. park accommodation should be booked either be booked park accommodation should with ) or directly p282 through Iringa Info ( park headquarters. is open to the public space permitting. All but otherwise you’ll need your own supplies. for students and a rest- is also a hostel There house, is usually reserved which for staff, but family basics, few drinks and a and the park sells soft das, five special camp sites, all well away from all well away from special camp sites, five and close the river Near the Msembe area. several park are to park headquarters 1.5km apart. Neither has water; the only fa- water; 1.5km apart. Neither has also about are pit toilets. There cilities are for showers is available Water people each. There are two ordinary camp sites about 9km about two ordinary camp sites are There and about park headquarters, northwest of Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating INSIDE THE PARK tors, the green panoramas, lavender-coloured panoramas, lavender-coloured the green tors, birding compensate. fields and rewarding with walks) ganise (two- to three-hour short rates park staff Park through (or your lodge). US$25 per group (up to six people); book are in advance. locate in the impressive numbers possible dur- numbers in the impressive locate (August through October ing the dry months visi- peak). However, especially for repeat are season,become impassable and some areas dispersed is widely and difficultwildlife to Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book This unpretentious 28-room lodge about about 28-room lodge This unpretentious SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS ish lodge hasahilltopperch about1.5kmoff 1pm and Tungamalenga(from thevillage Tungamalenga village, departingIringaat Iringaand dailybetween on theroute) goes A bus(Upendoand Shanila linesalternate BUS tinations on request. (US$270), Mikumi(US$240)andother des- (US$450), DaresSalaam(US$300), Selous toKatavi inRuahaforflights plane based (US$300). Foxes AfricanSafaris( p47 ) has a Ruahaand Arusha andbetween Reserve), Game US$270fromSelous or Zanzibar, (US$300onewayfromDaresSalaam Reserve Game toRuahaviaSelous and Zanzibar There are airstrips andJongomero. at Msembe AIR Getting There&Away areas. border per person), aswellguidedwalksinpark you arrange vehicle rental toRuaha(US$60 are frequent visitors). Thecampcanhelp with abushfeel (elephantsandotheranimals tents scatteredraised around shaded grounds park accessroad.Accommodationisin the Tungamalengaroadrejoins themain 12km fromtheparkgate andshortly before place justoutsidetheparkboundaryabout .com; perpersonfullboardUS$120; town for Ruaha safaris. vehicle, toorganise oneinIringa you’llneed also bearranged. Ifyoudon’thave yourown Cultural walksinthesurroundingarea can and otherwildlife passingbydownbelow. elephants whenit’scommontosee season an amenable choice, especiallyduringthedry problem sometimes,butoverall thelodge is cement bar area. thisare Behind simpletwo-person restaurant-the plainsbelowfromraised the Tungamalengaroad,withwideviewsover s/dUS$80/160) www.ruahahilltoplodge.com; (US$150pervehiclesafaris per day). and (soon–check withthemfirst) alsoRuaha Cultural tours inthearea canbearranged, rooms andarestaurant (mealsTsh7000). for camping,there are small,cleanen-suite options toopen.Inadditionasmallgarden wasthefirststand, of theTungamalengaroad tothebus 35km fromtheparkgate andclose 288 Tandala Tented Camp Lodge Hilltop Ruaha Coastal AviationCoastal fliesfromDaresSalaam OTENHGLNS • rnaT aabk ToMakambako SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS••Iringa bandas withnets.Water canbea (
% (www.tandalatentedcamp 026-270 1806,0784-726709; h Jun-Mar) Jun-Mar) Thisnew- A lovely mended, both for its accommodation and for mended, bothforitsaccommodation andfor recom- Itcomes highly thehighway. just off country about 50kmsouthwestof Iringaand stead fringed of bystands pineandrollinghill marginally better condition. bytheparkandisgenerallymaintained in fork(‘never-endingfork. Theright road’)is commodation outsidethepark,take theleft each way.ToaccessTungamalengaandac- isabout thesame to Ruahaandthedistance before the park,theroadforks;bothsidesgo Aboutthe rainswhenitcanberough. 58km road,which isdecentexceptduring sealed Ruaha is115kmfromIringaalonganun- CAR day). additional inthepark(US$100foreach stays multi-night pricefor thesame but workoutatroughly thataresafaris priceyfordaytrips(US$300), & Tours ( p282 ) inIringaalsoarranges Ruaha interested injoiningagroup.Tatanca Safaris forfindingothertravellersis agoodcontact and overnight forUS$180perday,and safaris US$200 pervehicle perdayplusparkfees one of the lodges. ranged foravehicle inadvancewith safari hicle rental onceatRuaha,unless you’ve ar- the Tungamalengaroad,andthere isnove- ranged thecampsalong inadvancethrough to thepark,otherthanrental vehicles ar- Tungamalenga, there isnoonwardtransport at 5am(Tsh3000, five tosixhours). From justbefore bus stand, TungamalengaCamp) and a sleeper loftand asleeper above; and twonewluxury camp-site cottages withadoublebedbelow wooden two-person chalets; lovely en-suite common bathroom inthenearby‘stables’; hicles, plusspotless twin-bedded roomswith one foroverlanders andoneforprivate ve- its cuisine. There are twocampinggrounds, half boardUS$75) US$20/25, d/fcottagesUS$45/55,luxurycottageperpersonwith camping perpersonwithhotshowersUS$4,twstables/chalets tion town of Makambako. of stands pine,beforedense reaching thejunc- southwest, windingitswaygraduallyup,past From Iringa,theTanzam continues highway IRINGA TOMAKAMBAKO is petrolstation closest in Iringa. The 4WDisnecessary. condition, though Iringa Info( p282 ) offers for day safaris Kisolanza – The OldFarm –The House Kisolanza Roads withintheparkare inreasonable isagracious1930sfarmhome- lonelyplanet.com (www.kisolanza.com; (www.kisolanza.com;
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS 289 adjoin- Clean en-suite Clean en-suite 026-273 0047; Tanzam 026-273 0047; Tanzam 026-273 0475, 0784-
% %
(per hr Tsh1500) ( ( Another good place, Basic and rather faded Basic and rather faded (r Tsh7000-10,000)
internet café 026 026 Midtown Lodge Jay Jay Highlands Hotel There’s an There’s % 60km south Njombe, about The peppy town of is Songea, and 235km north of Makambako of agricultural centre a district capital, regional the Benaand home of It would be people. unmemorable but for its highly scenic setting It’s about 1km south of the main junction It’s about 1km south of and signposted. along the Njombe road, Getting There & Away the The bus stand south of 1.5km is about main junction along the Njombe road. The hours) three bus to Mbeya (Tsh5000, first at 6am, with another bus at 7am. leaves Otherwise, you can wait at the main junc- The tion for passing transport (Tsh4000). busesfirst (all smaller Coastals) to Njombe (Tsh7000, one hour) and Songea (Tsh2000, and there’s 6.30am, depart about hours) five bus departing at 6.30am for Iringa a larger es Salaam. and Dar NJOMBE Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating Makambako Lutheran Centre Highway; r Tsh3000-4000) with bathroom and rooms, including one the bed. It’s just east of some with a large station. the train junction and opposite Food advance notice. with lots of can be arranged The a restaurant. rooms in varying sizes and beds big enough for have rooms for Tsh10,000 1½ blocks in from both It’s about two people. roads, and signposted the Mbeya and Songea from both. 310177; s/d Tsh15,000/20,000) fur- with small, clean and somewhat overly servingnished rooms and a restaurant great- Tsh4500. meals for about value four-course MAKAMBAKO MAKAMBAKO % highland is a dry, windy town Makambako the road from Songea where at the junction meetsand Njombe the Dar es Salaam–Mbeya railway line. highway, and a stop on the Tazara the of marks the end Geographically, the area Eastern and the start Arc mountain of range is also Highlands.the Southern Makambako includes which market, notable for its large used-clothes section. an extensive Lodge. ing Midtown ,
(r Mufindi •• Makambako SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Hilton Guest House 0753-026744, 0754-559230; , the turn-off point to % ( Southern Highlands Lodge
Mafinga , within walking distance of the , within walking distance of – set plan- tea amid the hills and 0784-237422; www.tanzaniasafaris.info; s/d full board Conrad Msekwa For reliable vehicle hire with driver in in driver with hire vehicle For reliable In Mafinga itself, try In Mafinga Continuing southwestwards, about 45km Continuing southwestwards, % [email protected]). the Iringa-Mafinga area and beyond, con- area the Iringa-Mafinga tact highway and signposted. highway Tsh10,000-12,000) town bus stand just off the main Mafinga ing the dry season from Ruaha, Dar es Salaam nearby airstrip. and other points to a 45km inland from Mafinga. Pick-ups can be Pick-ups 45km inland from Mafinga. flights scheduled dur- are and there arranged, Mikumi and Katavi parks, and the lodge makes makes parks, and the lodge Mikumi and Katavi is about The lodge a fine mid-safari break. are available) and horse riding. Fantastic! The and horse Fantastic! riding. available) are same safari family also runs camps in Ruaha, gardens, expansive grounds with walking grounds with walking gardens, expansive cycling (bikes for fishing, trails, small lakes honeymooners cabin with a stone fireplace. cabin with a stone fireplace. honeymooners landscaped beautifully Surrounding these are – is delicious. There’s also a larger two-family two-family also a larger – is delicious. There’s balcony and a private with an upper chalet cabins with large pane-glass windows and sun- pane-glass cabins with large hills, and the cuisine – all the set views over with produce from the farm fresh prepared cool highland air and the chance to hike or to hike cool highland the chance air and Accommodation is in cosy wooden recharge. tations around Mufindi – is another highly place for anyone looking for recommended ( US$200/280) known for their tea estates and trout-fishing. and trout-fishing. estates known for their tea The family-run reach the forested highlands around the forested reach and laced with small streams are which further on is a 1.5km walk in to the lodge. Advance bookings a 1.5km walk in to the lodge. isadvisable for accommodation, but there are for campers. always room at the Kisolanza turn-off, from where it’s about at the Kisolanza turn-off, from where Kisolanza also makes a good base for exploringKisolanza also makes and birding in the with fine walking the area, Busessurrounding countryside. will drop you In addition to being a convenient stopover, stopover, convenient In addition to being a meat, fish, eggs and bread. The entire set-up is The entire meat, fish, eggs and bread. rooms and no in the flowers with fresh lovely, cuisine is excellent. and the detail overlooked, dens and a fireplace. There is also a bar and a There dens and a fireplace. and fruit, shop selling vegetables home-grown the luxury cottages – the honeymoon farm – the honeymoon the luxury cottages – is set suite with a pri- on its own off cottage in the surrounding gar- area breakfast vate cottages built entirely with locally sourced ma- sourced with locally entirely built cottages set and terials of One beautiful gardens. amid Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS [email protected]; s/d/steTsh20,000/25,000 [email protected]; side of the street. north of andonthe opposite the busstand breakfast. It’scentrallylocated, about 500m smalldoublebedsandcontinental water, TV, Tsh10,000-12,000) off the main road. northern endof townandabout 600mwest Lookbar.is theCliff It’ssignposted atthe (Tsh2000 toTsh4000). Justdownafew steps and whatare arguably Njombe’sbestmeals water, small gardensandarestaurant withTV clean good-value roomswith hotrunning Tsh8500/10,500) town, nearthe Lutheran church. the priceisn’tbad.It’satsouthernendof and drab,butthingsare reasonably cleanand order. advance Mealsfrom thebusstand. canbe arranged with Lutheran church. It’s about a10-minute walk the and diagonallybehind (andsouthof) small compoundoneblockoff themainstreet out bathroomTsh3000, sTsh5000) GuestHouse Lutheran Centre Sleeping &Eating are noATMs yet. TFA There buildingalongthemainroad. Centre you canuploadphotosat theboxed(see text, p293 ). Guide tothe Southern Highlands of Tanzania driving routes, see p298 andtheexcellent andothersuggestions forwalkingand details, down totheshores of Formore Nyasa. Lake backroads totheKituloPlateau area, and to gofromNjombealongbeautifulhighland easy walk–are the of town–visiblefromthemain roadandan steam andwithaGPS.Atthenorthernedge to beunderyourown undertake willneed is notourisminfrastructure soanythingyou thereideal forwalkingandcycling,although andfieldsoftea plantations wildflowers –is horizon. Thesurroundingarea –dotted with over torollendlesslyintothe hillsthatseem coldest town,thisperch provides widevistas giving itthereputation of beingTanzania’s rangetain atalmost2000m.Inadditionto on theeastern edge of theKipengere moun- 290 Mwambasa Lodge Chani Motel There’s agood internet connectionand Mexons CliffHotel Mexons Hotel Milimani OTENHGLNS • iuoNtoa ak NationalParkSOUTHERN HIGHLANDS••Kitulo
(per hrTsh1000; Thiscosyplacehasmodestbut Cleanen-suite roomswithhot
( % (Songea Rd;s/dTsh6000/8000) 026-278 2357,0748-324644;s/d
Luhuji Falls ( % h ( % 026-278 2282,0787-282725; 8am-8pm) No-frills rooms in a No-frills roomsina 026-278 2301; Main Rd;r 026-278 2301;Main
( % Altek Computing Altek . It’salsopossible 026-278 2118;rwith- , behindthe Bare A
10am) andLudewa(departingby8am), both Bulongwa(departingNjombeabout KITULO NATIONALPARK shoreline. Nyasa and Lupingu,respectively, bothontheLake from where youcanwalkdowntoMatema first departures at 6.30am. and Mbeya(Tsh7000, fourhours), withthe four hours), Makambako (Tsh2000, onehour) water tank. road, about600msouthof thelarge grey- isonthewestsideofThe busstand themain Getting There&Away building. TFA two blocksoff themainroad–turninby It’s milk andyogurtexcellentcheeses. 8.30am-6pmSat) Fri, 278 2851; signposted justoff the main road. parking. It’satthenorthernendof townand back parkinglot.There’s arestaurant and cramped, withwindowslookingoutonthe the roomsare rathersmallandsomewhat mostofsurrounding countryside,although ontheescarpmentoverlookingsetting the /35,000) is alsowhen hikingisatits muddiest. Orchids ing theflowers are December toMarch, which Thebestmonthsor thingsbotanical. forsee- to visitifyouare inthearea andenjoy walking undiscovered place corners, andisanessential trepiece of oneof Tanzania’s mostscenicand Tanzania’s peak.Theparkisthecen- highest metre thanMtRungweandsouthern higher other attractionisMtMtorwi(2961m), one Risingupfromtheplateau, thepark’s panses. many more flowers carpetingitsgrassyex- geraniums and aloes, identified sofar),irises, our, withorchids (over 40specieshave been April, whenitexplodesinaprofusion of col- fromabout Decemberuntil the rainyseason hikers. Theparkreaches itsprimeduring foris stunninglybeautifulandaparadise northeastof3000m inthehighlands Tukuyu– p295 ) –much of which 2600mand liesbetween shoreline. Nyasa the Lake Map Thearea (see which runssouthfromtheplateau paralleling tions of theformerLivingstone Forest Reserve, flower-clad Kitulo Plateau, together withsec- Tanzania’s newestnationalparkprotects the For hikers, there are dailypick-upsto Super Feo dailytoSongea (Tsh7000, goes laMaziwa Duka Njombe’snewesthotel hasaprime h noon-6pm Mon,8.30am-1pm&3-6pmTue- Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels This little place sells fresh Thislittleplacesells
(Cefa Njombe Milk Factory;(Cefa NjombeMilk % 026- SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS 291 025 / pop 270,000 In the dry season, in a good vehicle with In the dry season, in a good vehicle The only public transport to Kitulo is via In Mbeya, Gazelle Safaris ( p292 ) and ) and p292 In Mbeya, Gazelle Safaris ( It’s also possible to reach Kitulo via via Kitulo to reach It’s also possible MBEYA MBEYA with coffee, tea, bananas and cocoa all grown tea, with coffee, is on the scruffy While the town centre here. side (especially around the bus station), the foot up to the plateau, and about seven foot up to the plateau, hours Kitulo Farm. to ) can both help p293 ( Country Hotel Utengule the park. transport up to organise % Mbeya sprawls at about The thriving town of (2656m), Loleza Peak 1700m in the shadow of Mbeya mountainin a gap between the verdant to the north and the Poroto mountains range to the southeast. It was founded in 1927 as a for the gold rush at Lupa, to supply centre to its the north, but today owes its existence railway line and the position on the Tazara highway, and its statusa major as Tanzam trade and transit junction between Tanzania, Zambia The surrounding area, and Malawi. mountainousin addition to being lush, and farming region, highly scenic, is also a major a further 12km or so to Matamba, along a along a Matamba, a further 12km or so to the Chimala across wonderfully scenic route and the oc- sunflowers past fields of River, small house. casional high clearance, it’s also possible to reach along the Tukuyu Kitulo via Isyonje village, road a reasonable road. Once on the plateau, the planned site is which leads to Kitulo Farm, park headquarters. for one or two pick- from where Mfumbi village, one (Tsh3000, ups daily go as far as Matamba Once Standihour) from Mfumbi’s ya Uwanje. a it’s sometimes possible to hire at Matamba, plateau. you on up to the to take park vehicle on Otherwise, hours it’s about two to three couple of hours on foot) along a rough on foot) along road hours of couple impassable(sometimes onto rains) up in the itselfthe plateau area, park and the official and the yet-to-be- by a sign board marked Gate. Mwakipembo built Mbeya 80km east of about Chimala town, a rough highway.along the main From here, (4WD essential) but beautiful road and rocky winds its way for for rehabilitation) (slated 50- via a series9km up the escarpment of wide vistas over plus hairpin turns, offering From the top, it’s plains below. the Usangi the signposted park turn-off 2km west of park turn-off of 2km west the signposted ban- (see the A Guide to A Guide to •• Mbeya SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS No-frills, clean rooms No-frills,
(s Tsh3000, without bathroom without bathroom (s Tsh3000, Green Garden Restaurant at the junction of the roads the roads at the junction of (r per person Tsh5000) (r per person Tsh5000)
One block in from the main road and camping and a restaurant are planned. are camping and a restaurant At the southern edge of town, and just off the town, and just off of At the southern edge For meals, try Fema Zebra Park Guest House Zebra Park Otherwise, there are several inexpensive are Otherwise, there further via 4WD with higha clearance (or to Matamba village and the park’s tempo- village to Matamba it’s about an hour rary base. From Matamba, rently unsignposted and unpaved but good and unpaved unsignposted rently (all-weather) road winds its way 32km up lage, about 90km east of Mbeya along the Mbeya along the 90km east of about lage, a small, cur- main highway, from where The best access to Kitulo is via Mfumbi vil- The best access to Kitulo is via Mfumbi Hotel. En-suite rooms in detached cement En-suite Hotel. das, Getting There & Away Kitulo road, is the soon-to-be-opened Kipunji Kitulo road, is the soon-to-be-opened Tanapa Tanapa office. (meals Tsh1000) (meals Tsh1000) about Tsh2500/4000/4000), including packed including packed about Tsh2500/4000/4000), picnic lunches. across the field). It has hot water (usually) across the field). It has hot water and good meals (breakfast/lunch/dinner sharing a bathroom in a large house behind sharing a bathroom in a large on foot minutes office (just a few the Tanapa Guest House, clean, basic rooms this place has baths. bucket and Tsh2000) Tsh2000) turn-off just beyond the for Edeni signposted guesthouses in Matamba village: guesthouses in Matamba to enquire at park headquarters. at to enquire tion option inside the park is camping. Sites is camping. Sites tion option inside the park being established, need so you’ll currently are Apart from very basic rooms (Tsh2000) at at rooms (Tsh2000) basic Apart from very head- temporary (ask at Tanapa’s Kitulo Farm accommoda- the only for directions), quarters the Southern Highlands of Tanzania Tanzania of Highlands Southern the boxed text, p293 ). Sleeping & Eating the park area), and carry a GPS. The best a GPS. The best and carry the park area), descriptions is route source of you’ll need to be self-sufficient with food sources within plenty of are (there and water also be arranged, if desired. For any hiking, hiking, For any if desired. also be arranged, Entry fees (US$20/5 per adult/child) should should (US$20/5 per adult/child) Entry fees headquar- temporary be paid at Tanapa’s guides can where village, at Matamba ters Park infrastructure is still in the early stages. stages. is still in the early infrastructure Park – the plateau’s most renowned residents – are – are residents most renowned – the plateau’s peak in February. at their Information Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book from Mfumbi and Chimala, near the from Mfumbi and Chimala, near the SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Stanbic NBC CRDB MONEY &PostSts; North Centre Medical Khan Aga MEDICAL SERVICES h Nane InformationCentre Café Internet Safaris Gazelle Café BIC Internet ACCESSINTERNET nearby. excursions andtherethe hillscompensate, are dozensof cool climate, jacarandatrees andviewsof 292 Cirrus); justup from CRDB. Safaris. Tsh1000; (Visa (Visa only). and nearthe post office. Complex 7.30am-6pmSat)AtthebackofMaktaba Fri, Just north of Just north the market. Information 1 3 2 MBEYA 8am-6.30pm Mon-Sat) (cnr Karume & Kaunda Aves) &Kaunda Changescash;ATM (cnrKarume (Karume Ave) (Karume ATM only). (Visa OTENHGLNS • by SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS••Mbeya Hospital (Karume Ave) Maestro (Karume ATM MasterCard, (Visa, h
Independence Ave Songwe International Airport(22km); 18 8.30am-5.30pm, sometimes later) At Gazelle 8.30am-5.30pm, sometimeslater)AtGazelle Utengule CountryHotel(20km); AC Ifisi ConferenceCentre(19km);
Mb St West Tunduma &Zambia (95km)
Tazara TrainStation(4km);
To KaribuniCentre(2km); alizi h Hospital Hill Hospital
Rd (perhrTsh1000; Mbalizi (12km); 8am-8pm Mon-Sat,9am-2pmSun) 13 Catholic Church 14 Statue
Rhino Sisimba St Sisimba
15 Post St Post Rd
(Market Sq;perhrTsh1000; (Market ( Market Sq Market Station %
17 School St School (Jacaranda Rd;perhr (Jacaranda Market 8
5
025-250 2043;cnr South St South Complex Maktaba
20 North St h 2 4 1 Anglican
Church
7 7am-7pm Mon-
Jac
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Acacia St Acacia East St East 19 16 B
11
Karume Lupa Way 9
Ave Jamat 3
Mwambenja Rd ikhana
Kaunda Ave Kaunda guides to local attractions. times-off placecanoccasionallybeusefulforarranging andthebusstation,thissometimes-on,some- the market of anyonepresenting themselves asatourist Alsobeveryvalley behindthestation. wary and avoid thesmall walkingalonethrough buy bustickets inthebuscompanyoffices here, don’tchange moneywithanyone,only Watch yourluggagearound thebusstation. tracts manytransients,particularlyinthearea As amajor transportjunction,Mbeyaat- Dangers &Annoyances Sisi Kwa Safaris Gazelle TOURIST INFORMATION Telephone office Post Office POST &TELEPHONE in the southern circuit. afield,especially Park, further reliable carrental andsafaris National for excursionsaroundMbeya,toKitulo operator thatcanhelpyouarrangeguidesandtransport JacarandaRd)Anewandhelpful www.gazellesafaris.com; 3pm) Atthepostoffice;Tsh2000 perminuteto anywhere.
12 Rd
Saba
Saba 6 Stadium Sokoine Rd (PostSt;
(Station Rd) Near the rhino statuebetween (Station Rd)Neartherhino Lumumba Rd Lumumba ( % 0.3miles 500m 0 0 10 ( h h 025-250 2482,0713-069179; 8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, Sat8am- 8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, Aga KhanMedicalCentre...... Taxi Stand...... (see 18) Taxi Stand...... Scandinavian Express...... Bus Station...... Sombrero Restaurant...... New ApricourtRestaurant...... Mambeu's...... Warsame GuestHouse...... New MillenniumInn...... Mt LivingstoneHotel...... Mbeya PeakHotel...... Holiday Lodge...... Telephone Office...... (see7) Stanbic Bank...... Sisi KwaSisi...... Post Office...... NBC Bank...... Nane InformationCentre...... Gazelle SafarisInternetCafé....(see4) Gazelle Safaris...... CRDB Bank...... BIC InternetCafé...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING INFORMATION Nkwenzulu HotelNumber1...(see13) Songwe RiverBridge & Malawi(125km); To Tukuyu(75km); 8am-6pm)
Songea (495km)
Iringa (365km); Kyela (130km);
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a lonelyplanet.com
R d D 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B2 B3 A3 B2 B2 A2 A2 A3 C3 B2 C2 B1 B3 B2 C2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS )
s 293 Once the Once the 025-250 2225; Mbalizi % 025-250 3334, 0713-350484; 025-256 0100, 0753-020901; ( 025-250 3473; Acacia St; s/d/ste % %
( ( With a central, sunny set- to Mbalizi, from where to Mbalizi, from where %
( of Mbeya’s hotels, this place is Mbeya’s hotels, of dalla-dalla Mbeya Peak HotelMbeya Peak Mt Livingstone Hotel there’s no food. The more expensive rooms have beds big rooms expensive The more no food. there’s same-gender sharing. no for two, but there’s enough first fork. The lodge is signposted to the right. is signposted fork. The lodge first any Tunduma- Via public transport, take bound to Chunya will sporadic pick-ups en route Credit the lodge. you within about 2km of take maximum. up to US$450 accepted cards are if pick-ups from Mbeya can be arranged Free one night. than staying more you’re Tsh17,500/20,000/50,000) ting and decent rooms, some with views over choices. the better-value the hills, this is one of about 300m east It’s on a small side street with a restaurant also There’s the market. of from Tsh4000). garden seating (meals Jamatikhana Rd; s/d from Tsh35,000/55,000) dame grande renova- recent past its prime, although after decent value. quite tions it once again offers rooms, including the a variety of are There ones on the ground floor, and a nicer deluxe about 200m off It’s in a quiet area restaurant. Jamatikhana Rd. Mbeya with beautiful sunset views over the Mbeya with beautiful sunset views over accom- of a range surrounding hills. There’s including spacious modation for all budgets, king-size standard rooms and two-storey also There’s with an upper balcony. suites a family room set its own, plus large, on off self-catering in separate grounds well cottages Surrounding are away from the main hotel. grounds with squash and tennis expansive a com- makes hotel courts and a pool. The fortable base for exploring the surrounding and guides, including for climbs up region, can be rentals and pricey car Mbeya Peak, road west from the Tunduma Take arranged. 12km to Mbalizi, where Mbeya for about to the right. turn-off a signposted there’s left at the Follow this road for 8.5km, keeping Nkwenzulu Hotel Number 1 & TOP END MIDRANGE Utengule Country Hotel www.riftvalley-zanzibar.com; cottages camping per site US$10, US$55/80/135/120; per person US$30, s/tw/ste/f from plantation 20km west of about in the hills Rd; s/d Tsh15,000/20,000) Next to New MillenniumRd; s/d Tsh15,000/20,000) Inn and with this hotel is not to be confused of a similar standard, is at the Hotel Number 3, which the grubbier Nkwenzulu a meal. hill and is the closest place to get base of the small This lovely lodge is set coffee on a working lodge This lovely
A This A some- •• Mbeya SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS 025-250 0599; Mbalizi Rd; s
(Sisimba St; s/d without bathroom stop for transport into 025-250 2821; Jamatikhana Rd; % ( 025-250 3035/4178; [email protected]; 025-250 3035/4178; [email protected]; % ( % (
This is one of Mbeya’s cheapest Mbeya’s cheapest This is one of dalla-dalla
THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS HIGHLANDS THE SOUTHERN Highlands about the Southern more For see www.southernhighlandstz.org region, excellent of Liz de Leyser’s or get a copy Highlands of Tanzania, Guide to the Southern in and hotels bookstores available at many an es- booklet is The for Tsh5000. the region if you’ll be visiting Kitulo sential companion ). p290 ( National Park Other recommendations:
Holiday Lodge Warsame Guest House Tsh 7000-10,000, without bathroom Tsh6000) Located di- 7000-10,000, without bathroom Tsh6000) Tsh rectly opposite the bus station and convenient if you have clean; small, noisy and reasonably Rooms are an early bus. New Millennium Inn area and about 15 minutes on foot from the 15 minutes and about area bus stand. and meals with advance order. It’s just off the It’s just off and meals with advance order. Hotel, Rift Valley the large main road behind walk from the market about 10 minutes’ what faded, whitewashed local guesthouse what faded, whitewashed rooms – some with bathroom – with clean-ish d Tsh10,000-12,000, without bathroom Tsh3500) d Tsh10,000-12,000, mosquito nets), grubby shared facilities and a mosquito nets), grubby shared the market. central location just northwest of Tsh3000/4000) options, with surprisingly decent rooms (no town. Watch for the signpost along the north town. Watch main highway the 500m about and side of junction coming from Dar first the west of head throughes Salaam. From the turn-off, 300m an empty lot for about what looks like the gate. to reach the town centre and about 10 minutes on foot and about 10 minutes the town centre from the breakfast only). Karibuni is 3km southwest of southwest of is 3km only). Karibuni breakfast restaurant (meals cost about Tsh4000 and it’s (meals cost about Tsh4000 restaurant open from 7.30am to 8pm Monday to Friday and 3pm Saturday; on Sunday it’s open for and budget travellers. Rooms, most of which which most of Rooms, travellers. and budget a good solid value, and there’s are en suite, are closed compound where you can also pitch a can also pitch you closed compound where and has long been with campers tent, popular Karibuni Centre is in an en- place clean and quiet mission-run Sleeping Sleeping BUDGET guide and don’t make tourist arrangements tourist arrangements guide and don’t make an office. with anyone outside of Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book camping per person Tsh3000, d/tr Tsh15,000/19,000) camping per person Tsh3000, SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS meals, justopposite Gazelle Safaris. dining, with a daily set menuandàlacarte, dining, withadailyset with no-frills, good-valuerooms with no-frills, with bathrooms. There’s alsoaguesthouse(rTsh15,000) inthecompound, withspaciousroomsandarestaurant. Mbalizi junction, A church-runcentre about20kmfromMbeyaand7kmpast 011622; [email protected]; Tanzam Hwy;rTsh30,000-40,000) 63a (Tsh22,000). 6.30am the nextbestbet, withadailydeparture at departing Mbeya about 11am.Sumry lineis line fromMbeyato Dar(Tsh31,000, 12hours), to take Scandinavian’s ‘luxury’ Lusaka-Dar down fromGazelleSafaris.It’salso possible Scandinavian office onJacaranda St,just tion, butare scheduled tobemoved tothe Departures are currently fromthebussta- going viaIringa(Tsh13,000) andMorogoro. es Salaamat7am(Tsh25,000, 12hours), Scandinavian Express departsdaily toDar BUS flights. charter about 5kmsouthof town,handles occasional postponed. Meanwhile, theMbeyaairfield, indefinitely Mbalizi, butitsopeninghasbeen structed about22kmoutsideMbeyanear Songwe international airportisbeingcon- AIR Getting There&Away and cheese the like. ofreasonable selections boxed juices,tinned around themarket area, mostof which have See p293 onhowto fordetails get there. coffees (includingtotake home)are afeature. and barbecuelunch onthelawn.Speciality and abar. OnSundayafternoons there’s apizza h mealsaboutTsh12,500;020901; www.riftvalley-zanzibar.com; and afew other standards. cluding vegetarian bolognaise curry,spaghetti h from Tsh2000; flour, orboth),chips, chicken and the like. sive h Mambeu Eating &Drinking Centre Ifisi Conference Another recommendation: 294 Sombrero Restaurant Sombrero For self-catering, trythesmallshops For self-catering, CountryHotel Utengule Restaurant New Apricourt lunch &dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner) ugali OTENHGLNS • by SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS••Mbeya
(cnr Sisimba St & Market Sq;mealsTsh1000;(cnr SisimbaSt&Market (a staple madefrommaizeorcassava (astaple h Alocalfavourite, withinexpen- lunch &dinner) (
% Theplacetogoforfine (Post St;mealsTsh5000-7500; Alimited menu,in-
025-250 4178,0753- ( % Good, inexpensive (Jacaranda Rd;meals (Jacaranda 025-256 0100,0753- there are (Tsh2500, dailyminibuses two lo se p353. see also time); ataboutthesame at 5pmandLusaka departingMbeyafourtimesweekly Lusaka, (Tsh46,000service Mbeyaand between has aDaresSalaam-Mbeya-Tunduma-Lusaka transport.Scandinavian Express to Zambian hours). Onceover theborder,youcanchange Malawi, see p351 . more Mbeyaand onconnectionsbetween the otherdirection, expectlongdelays.For then continuingtoLilongwe. Comingfrom reaching 3pmand4pm, Mbeyabetween departingDaresSalaamat5am, times weekly Kyela. in tochangeFor Itungiport,you’llneed vehicles tochangeprobably need vehicles inTukuyu. dallas possible toget totheMalawi bordervia daily.It’salso or three buses smallerCoastal take theKyelabus–see p351 ), there are two Malawi border(Tsh3000, twoto2½hours; Kyela (Tsh3000, twoto2½hours) andthe departure as well. departs dailyat6am,sometimeswithalater Songea (Tsh12,000, hours), eight SuperFeo about connections with Zambia. and DaresSalaam, and p353 forinformation p361 forschedules andfares Mbeya between tion daysinadvanceatthe several Tickets shouldbebooked forallclasses atleast TRAIN Mbeya –go via Chunya. the mainTanzam justeastof highway central Makongolosi, while others –catch themalong junction, take thewestern route viaSazaand Some, which youcanpickupatMbalizi goingviaRungwa.during thedryseason, overnight inSumbawanga. to get adirect connectionwithoutstaying it’spossiblesometimes inthedryseason Sumbawanga inthemorning,although since mostvehicles toMpandadepart there,wanga. Plan onspendingthenight tochangeyou’ll need vehicles inSumba- to Tsh12,000, hours). ForMpanda, seven dailyat6amand8am(Tsh10,000which goes To Tunduma, on the Zambian border, To Tunduma,ontheZambian To Lilongwe(Malawi), there’s abusseveral To Tukuyu(Tsh1500, oneto1½hours), To Njombe(Tsh7000, fourhours) and To Sumbawanga,thebestbetisSumry, To Tabora, there are a few vehicles weekly
( h that run throughout theday,butyou’ll thatrunthroughout 8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pmSat) 8am-noon &2-5pmMon-Fri, lonelyplanet.com Tazara trainsta- dalla- . See . See SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS 295 (2820m),
Livingstone Mtns R a n g e g n a R Lumbila Mbeya Peak Mbeya Peak Mfumbi Mt Mtorwi (2961m)
River Farm Kitulo Ikombe Lyulilo 00 30 km 20 miles Bulongwa
K i p e n g e r e
Kitulo
Lake Nyasa Ruaha Chimala (Lake Malawi) Matema A104 National Park Matamba
Gate to Mbalizi, get out at the sign forget to Mbalizi, Great Itungi Mwakipembo Ipinda Kyela Masoko Crater Lake Just west of Loleza is Loleza is Just west of
dalla-dalla M t n s n t M as above, but ignore the turn-off the to the seminary but ignore as above, walking along the road from Mbalizi and keep on the road running north from town past town past north from road running on the the hospital. an and the highest the Mbeya range point in several possible are There hike. enjoyable day One goesroutes. junction, about from Mbalizi the Tunduma road. Take town on 12km west of a Utengule Country Hotel, head right fol- and Hotel, Country Utengule 1km to a sign for Stlow the dirt road for about Seminary. and follow Turn rightMary’s here the road up past the seminary to Lunji Farm you With a vehicle, and then up to the peak. and go the remaining can park at Lunji Farm proceed route, way on foot. For an alternative Bridge Ibanda Kibisi Tukuyu
Isyonje
Songwe River R a n g e g n a R (2960m) ὈὈ ὈὈ Mt Rungwe World's End Viewpoint Loleza Loleza Kaporogwe Falls
P o r o t o t o r o P River A7 Isongole Kiriwa MALAWI (2629m)
Ngozi Peak M b e y a y e b M from the road from the road Mungu Kijungu (2656m) Daraja la Mbeya Loleza Peak Chunya open) Airport (not yet Mbalizi (2820m) B6 Mbeya Peak Mbeya Airfield Ifisi Dalla-dallas Dalla-dallas Lupa Goldfields •• Around Mbeya SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Makongolosi ZAMBIA Saza Mbozi Galula
Meteorite
(2656m; also known as Mt Kaluwe), as Mt Kaluwe), (2656m; also known
AROUND MBEYA To Tunduma (70km) Ngomba Lake
Rukwa Loleza & Mbeya Peaks Peaks Loleza & Mbeya get high enoughget for views. The walk begins
Rising up over Mbeya from the north is Mbeya Rising up over Peak can be climbed as an easy half-day which at the top, so you an antenna There’s hike. but you can still can’t go to the summit, AROUND MBEYA AROUND MBEYA station often don’t have room for luggage. don’t have station often (Tsh2000 in a taxi). (Tsh2000 Number 1 run to Hotel Nkwenzulu in front of the station ones to the and to Mbalizi, but the market. The Tazara train station out is 4km The Tazara market. highway town on the Tanzania–Zambia of Getting Around Around Getting stationat the bus park and near the Taxis lonelyplanet.com SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS shores of there Rukwa,although Lake are no sible tocontinueviaSazaandNgombathe where there it’spos- isabasicguesthouse, of theGreat RuahaRiver). OnceinChunya, views over theUsangu catchment area (source ing theimpressive along theedge of theMbeyaescarpment,pass- own transport.FromMbeya,headnortheast Rukwaforanyonewiththeir ous looptoLake draws, it’spartof aninteresting andadventur- town.Although a ghost hasfewChunya itself assomethingofit declinedtoitspresent status ofthe height the1920sgoldrush, after which This oldgold-miningtowncametolife during Chunya Sisi Kwa( p292 ) in Mbeya. you canarrange atGazelleSafaris( p292 ) or be climbedaccompaniedbyaguide,which School tothewestofLolozi Secondary town. longer route fromMbeya,beginningnear shorter LunjiFarm route. There’s alsoanother, for thereturn trip,abitlessfortheslightly times.Allowfive tosixhours as itforksseveral toasklocalspointouttheway probably need you’ll winds itswaytowardsthepeak,though 2.7km fromMbalizijunction.Thispath unmarked dirtpathheadingoff totheright, Continue pasttwomore smallbridges toan atinybridge. turn-off you’llsee the seminary towards Utengule CountryHotel. Justafter 296 Both LolezaandMbeyaPeak shouldonly an informative leafletwith details onthemeteorite. 2km before themeteorite. There is acaretaker. There isnocharge forvisiting,butyoucanbuy a2WDcangetthrough without difficulty,exceptperhapsfor a tinystreamOtherwise, about Duringthewetseason, you’llneeda4WD. road(nopublictransport). downadirt 13km further Tunduma. About50kmfromMbeyathere isasignposted turn-offtotheleft.Fromhere, it’s the meteorite throughtheatmosphere towardsEarth. hurtled content, whileitsburnishedlookcomesfromthemelting andotherheatingthatoccurred as ofAntiquities. The oftheDepartment meteorite’sjurisdiction darkcolourisduetoitshigh iron by theTanzanian government in1967andisnowmounted onasmallpedestalandunderthe andtracesofphosphorous andotherelements.nickel Itwasdeclared aprotected monument because ofvariousassociated taboos. only discovered byoutsidersin 1930,ithadbeenknowntolocalsforcenturies,butnotreported must have madewhenitfell, noranylocallegendsregarding itsorigins. Althoughthesite was sumed tohave beenmanythousandsofyearsago,sincethere are notracesofthecrater thatit about 3mandaheightof1m.Scientistsare butitisas- unsure of whenithittheearth, largest meteorite intheworld, with anestimated weightofabout25metrictons,alength About 65kmsouthwestofMbeyaistheMbozi (alsoknownasMbosi)meteorite –the fourth- THE MBOZI METEORITE OTENHGLNS • rudMea SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS••AroundMbeya To reach the site youwillneedyourownvehicle. FromMbeya,followthemainroadtowards mostmeteorites,Like theoneatMbozi iscomposed primarilyofiron(90%),withabout8% World’s EndViewpoint , with lake fromSumbawanga; see p271 . (and easierviapublictransport)toaccessthe Theredifficult. are nofacilities.It’salsopossible then,accesstotheshorelineto visit,andeven is For eitherroute, 4WDistheonlyrealistic way Galula, andthenontoSazathelake shore. proaches are viaChunyaoralternatively via by swamplands.FromMbeya,themainap- and sometimessplitsintotwolakes separated Itrarely about3mindepth, dry seasons. exceeds its water variesgreatly level thewetand between Katavi NationalPark. As thelake hasnooutlet, which iscontiguouswith Rukwa GameReserve, ispartof odile population.Thenorthernsection for itsmanywater birdsanditsenormouscroc- Remote RukwaisalargeLake lake salt notable duringthe weekly dry season. and ontoTabora istraversed buses byseveral routerough fromChunyanorthtoRungwa junction fortheroadgoingviaGalula. The area forthenorthernloop,andfromMbalizi are fromjustoutsideof Mbeyabefore theSae transport departsinthemornings.Departures overnight tostay need inChunyaasreturn Chunya (three hours), butyou’llprobably Lk Rukwa Lake Mbeya onasomewhat road. rougher Galula andUtengule CountryHotel towards way, oralternatively, atSaza,headsouthvia facilities enroute. Youcanreturn thesame Pick-ups go daily between MbeyaandPick-ups godailybetween lonelyplanet.com SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS 297 This no- Also nearby is 0784-592633; camping travelling between travelling %
( 025-255 2080; r without bath- The Langiboss was long % (
dalla-dalla Kaporogwe Falls. (Cooking Pot), where the river tum- river the (Cooking Pot), where Langiboss Lodge meals with lots of advance notice. Hot-water Hot-water advance notice. meals with lots of 1km east of It’s about can be arranged. buckets from the small roundabout at the town centre; town, head straight and then right.the top of trouble contacting them, book If you have ). left ( Tours & through Rungwe Tea Tsh5000, s without bathroom Tsh4000, tr Tsh6000) s without bathroom Tsh4000, Tsh5000, simple rooms with frills place has a handful of a you can pitch grounds where nets, plus large trucks. and is sometimes usedtent, by overland or you can use the can be arranged Meals north from Tukuyu for about Head kitchen. turn-off on the western 3km to the signposted it’s 7km down the road, from where side of a pick-up from Tukuyu a dirt road. There’s daily except Sunday, departing from (Tsh1000) about the minibus station near the market next morning. the 2pm and returning Tukuyu’s only accommodation, and is still shoestring the better options, with no- one of frills clean rooms around a tiny courtyard and way. Once at the base, another steep about it’s rim. crater the hour or so on foot up to DARAJA LA MUNGU Ngozi Peak God’, south of of This ‘Bridge the main road, is a natural bridge and west of been around 1800 formed to have estimated flowing through ago by water million years that spewed out from the nearby cooling lava spans a small wa- The bridge Rungwe volcano. Further south along the Kiriwa River terfall. the pretty are Sleeping & Eating Lutengano Moravian Centre NGOZI PEAK & CRATER LAKE LAKE CRATER & PEAK NGOZI 2629m-high volcanic vegetated This lushly – the lake beautiful, deep-blue peak, with its – lying 200m below the local legends subject of the main road 7km west of rim, is about crater via public trans- here Tukuyu. To get north of any port, take off; and ask to be dropped Mbeya and Tukuyu at the turn-off. for Ngozi a small sign there’s come with Once at the turn-off, if you haven’t by locals offering a guide you’ll be approached their services; is about Tsh2000. the going rate on time, you can go about half short If you’re the distance from the main road to Ngozi by the of remainder and then walk the vehicle Kijungu gorge. rocky bles through a room Tsh4000, d Tsh8000) room Tsh4000, , a , in Syaka Internet (per hr Tsh1000) •• Tukuyu SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS (www.rungweteatours.com)
, diagonally opposite the the , diagonally opposite Hope Internet Café has detailed descriptions (see the A Guide to the Southern Highlands of of Highlands Southern A Guide to the
(per hr Tsh1000) 025 Rungwe Tea & Tours & Tours Rungwe Tea
NBC in the centre of town changes cash cash changes town NBC of in the centre Mt Rungwe can also be reached as a day as a day Mt Rungwe can also be reached between Tukuyu from Isongole village hike and Mbeya. road about 15km north of Tukuyu. A guide Tukuyu. A guide road about 15km north of at Rungwe or in Tukuyu. can be arranged about 10 hours. There are several routes, several routes, are There about 10 hours. including one starting from near Rungwe Secondary off the Mbeya signposted School, in a day – passing through lovely patches patches in a day – passing through lovely you’ll need to allow tropical forest; of Park. It marks the point where the eastern the eastern where It marks the point Park. meet, the Rift Valley arms of and western If endemism. of and is an important centre up and down you start early, you can hike Reserve, road the main rises of up to the east adjoining Kitulo National Tukuyu, north of This 2960m dormant volcano, much of of This 2960m dormant volcano, much Forest as the Rungwe is protected which MT MT RUNGWE booklet Tanzania boxed text, p293 ). of the area are available from the Surveys available are & the area of ); the p85 Division in Dar es Salaam ( Mapping July to October. Below brief descrip- are July to October. Topographical maps routes. a few tions of year, although during the wet season paths from are muddy. The best months very get Hiking is possible throughout most of the the Hiking is possible throughout most of is Bongo Camping ( p298 ). p298 Camping ( is Bongo Hiking nity fee. Another contact for arranging guides nity fee. to Landmark organise can help you Hotel, sur- in the and excursions guides for hikes Prices start Tsh15,000 about rounding area. and local commu- per day including a guide fice and just off the main road leading up the main road leading up fice and just off the Lutheran compound next to the bank. next to the Lutheran compound Café bank, and and travellers cheques and has an ATM (Visa and has an ATM cheques and travellers online at only), and you can get so be prepared to rough things. to so be prepared Lake Nyasa. There are many hikes and natural many hikes are Lake Nyasa. There in- but only a basic tourist attractions nearby, (though changing), this is slowly frastructure The small town of Tukuyu is setTukuyu in the heart of The small town near orchards hills and of a beautiful area of TUKUYU TUKUYU % Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book small, locally run place next to the post of-small, locally run place SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS grounds where youcanpitch atent (showers andhotwater, green ern rooms,allwithTV in parts. It also has a high level of level in parts.It alsohasahigh biodiversity, as700m long, upto75km wideandasdeep Tanganyika.and Lake It’smore than550km Africa’s third-largest lake after Victoria Lake Malawi) (alsoknownasLake Nyasa is Lake LAKE NYASA then east towards Matema. heads southeastfromTukuyutoIpinda and was beingrehabilitated through, aswepassed dirtroad, which and Itungiport.Asecondary and intoMalawi, andtheeastern forktoKyela western forkgoingtoSongweRiver Bridge heads southwestandsplitsatIbanda,withthe road ern endof Themaintarmac Nyasa. Lake (Tsh1500, one hour). hours road)andKyela alongascenic,tarmac Tukuyu andbothMbeya(Tsh1000, oneto1½ timesdailybetween runseveral Minibuses meals and snacks. bank,withinexpensive downhill fromNBC tion justupfrom bank. NBC large multistorey buildingatthemainjunc- can bearranged) andarestaurant. It’sthe from Tsh20,000/25,000/30,000) campingpersiteTsh8000,[email protected]; s/d/tw Tukuyu town, and signposted. just off themainroadatturn-off into sharing permitted) andmealsonrequest. It’s suite roomswithalarge bed(nosame-gender 298 Getting There&Away Two roadsconnectTukuyuwiththenorth- Ima’s Kitchen Landmark Hotel DM Motel camping perpersonTsh5000) left shortly before reachingleft shortly Tukuyu. – comingfromMbeya,it’ssignposted tothe villagejustoffthemainroadIt’s atKibisi onSundayafternoons.gives performances there’s alsoasmalllocaltheatre groupthat localeducationalinitiatives, andsupport taurant andsecure parking. Profitsgoto ing facilitiesforcampers,plusasimpleres- area withcleanshowersandtoilets,cook- integrated placehasapleasantcamping Bongo Camping BONGO CAMPING TOURISMSPOTLIGHT:COMMUNITY OTENHGLNS • aeNaa Nyasa SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS••Lake
( %
025-255 2332;rTsh10,000) (Main Rd;mealsfromTsh1000)(Main ( %
(www.bongocamping.com; 025-255 2400,022-2450510; Thishotel hasmod- This community- Clean en- Just 9pm) ules forMV sched-updated informationonthe sailing the entrancetoMatema Hotel. For Beach sufficient (includingwithtent andwatersufficient hikers, tobe completely you’llneed self- mosquitoes aremosquitoes real hazards, sotake the crocociles andmalaria-carrying Iringa way downtoLupinguandwaitfortheMV Ludewa, fromwhere youcouldmake your ity istotake a near theKituloPark gate. Anotherpossibil- version of thishike isalsopossible,starting before.you canspendthenight Alonger pensive inBulongwawhere guesthouses outatdaybreak.and start There are inex- shore. Allowabout14hours forthetrip as youmake yourwaydowntothe lake Matema, which offers somesuperbviews (reached via ofroute isfrom themissionstation Bulongwa filter) and carryaGPS.Onepossibilefor the Kitulo Plateau. leadonto the northandeast,mountains and theshore alongthelake’s eastern side. To themountains the townsstrungoutbetween shoreline.down tothesandy Few roadsreach slopes formastunningbackdropthatcascades green, misty whose Livingstone Mountains, Tanzanian sideisrimmedtotheeastby by Tanzania, Malawi andMozambique. The known cichlid species.Thelake isbordered toone-thirdof close theworld’s containing .com) ( Newton Mwakabambo; contact organise culturalvisitswith theenterprising here withsomeextratime,it’spossibleto is more appealing,andifyoudofindyourself of which iswetlandsdotted withricepaddies– in mostareas. Thesurroundingarea –much Photographyto spendthenight. isprohibited arrives somewhere late atItungiandyouneed nondescript transittownunlessyourboat There’s noreason tolinger inthisscruffy, % Kyela lowing (fromnorth to south). Tanzanian sideof thelake includethefol- appropriate precautions bythewater. % There’s While the mountains areWhile themountains beckoningto Other placesof interest aroundthe 025 025-254 0280,0787-630814;kyelaenvirocare@yahoo , based at the CCM building attheCCM , based in Kyela. in thelarge shop justnextto container . Onceattheshoreline, note thatboth internet access internet Iringa dalla-dalla dalla-dalla andMV
(per hrTsh1000; fromNjombe)to from Njombeto lonelyplanet.com Songea, Kyela Envirocare Kyela Envirocare falciparum h askat 7am-
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS
299 025-255 ( p354 ) p354 ( Lutheran % (
pottery mar- Matema Lake Songea Lutheran mission 0787-275164; d/q without bathroom 0787-275164; d/q without bathroom ( p358 ) stops at Matema on ) stops at Matema p358 ( 025-250 4178, 0754-487267; mec@maf are rather dilapidated these these rather dilapidated are % % ( (
Iringa in Tukuyu, just downhill from the in Tukuyu, just downhill from the 025 at Lyulilo village, about 1.5km east about 1.5km east at Lyulilo village, Rooms at the no-frills beachside beachside Rooms at the no-frills doesn’t stop here, which means you’ll need which doesn’t stop here, The MV its way from Itungi port down the eastern that the MV Note shore. lake going to head back to Itungi port if you’re to Malawi. of the Lutheran Guest House along the the Lutheran Guest House along the of Kisi pots from Ikombe where shore, lake to in Matema nowhere sold. There’s are bring enough money, so shillings change with some triples cottages, smaller en-suite and a quad, and a simple meals available. also a grill, with a nominal charge There’s use. Bookings can also be ar- for charcoal Centre in through the Karibuni ranged Mbeya ( p293 ). Guest House days, althoughlocal ambience and cui- the Before heading down, amenable. sine are the in with check 2597/8) NBC space bank, who will radio to be sure is available. GETTING THERE & AWAY Boat beach. On Saturdays, there’s a On Saturdays, there’s beach. ket with you. SLEEPING & EATING 300m past the Lutheran about On the beach Guest House, the Swiss-built Shore Resort d without camping per person with shower Tsh3000, .or.tz; 3-, 4- & 5-bed r Tsh20,000-30,000) bathroom Tsh10,000, can which of each chalets, has two en-suite people, plus two up to five accommodate and photography is forbidden. Pick-ups run Pick-ups is forbidden. and photography rough in sporadically, with coordination from to and and departures, boat arrivals and schedules For ferry Kyela (Tsh200). . p358 see fares, Matema % settlement only is the This quiet lakeside spot on northern Lake Nyasa that has any and with its infrastructure, tourist sort of by lush setting backed stunning beachside an ideal spot to relax mountains it makes walks can arrange days. You for a few and dugout canoe on the rides or lounge Tsh15,000/25,000) One block 025-254 0459; s If you have If you have ) %
( •• Lake SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Nyasa a 025-254 0158, 0786- % ( (meals Tsh1500)
This incongruous place, This incongruous place, ) 025-254 0015; s/d from Tsh7000/ a 025-254 0152, 0784-232650; kyelaresort % (
%
( A step up from the Makete, with with up from the Makete, A step Rooms here are basic but clean, with basic are Rooms here Steak Inn Restaurant Kyela Resort Matema Beach Hotel Pattaya HotelPattaya ferry service.ferry is no accommodation, There Itungi, about 11km southeast of Kyela, is Kyela, is Itungi, about 11km southeast of Lake Nyasa the main port for the Tanzanian port (Tsh200), in rough with coordination port (Tsh200), and departures. boat arrivals Itungi (Tsh3000, two to 2½ hours) from the minibus two to 2½ hours) (Tsh3000, Hotel. Pattaya stand about two blocks north of Pick-ups run daily between Kyela and Itungi Minibuses go several times daily from Kyela one hour) and Mbeya to Tukuyu (Tsh1500, GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING & AWAY THERE Tukuyu road. (windows on both walls) and a restaurant. (windows on both walls) and a restaurant. the 1.5km from town, just off It’s about your own transport, this is a good bet, with rooms simple but pleasant, well-ventilated @yahoo.com; s/d Tsh25,000/35,000; @yahoo.com; s/d Tsh25,000/35,000; rant. Staff can help arrange guides if you’re rant. Staff guides if you’re can help arrange in exploring the surrounding area. interested the works. A pool is in internet facilities yet), and there’s a restau- there’s facilities yet), and internet fore town, seems place in sleepy rather out of fore fine for the price – all with Rooms are Kyela. TV (though no computers – and most have from Tsh12,000/20,000; from Tsh12,000/20,000; about 500m be- area entrance with its massive as the Makete and the old Scandinavian bus and the old Scandinavian as the Makete office,in from the corner and about 300m (heading northwest). nets and bathrooms. It’s on the samenets and bathrooms. It’s road 15,000) of town, opposite the former Scandinavian the former Scandinavian town, opposite of bus office. Express rooms. There are no doubles. It’s in the centre no doubles. It’s in the centre are rooms. There Makete Half London Guest House SLEEPING & EATING EATING SLEEPING & are no ATMs; the best bet for changing for changing the best bet no ATMs; are proprietors the hotel one of money is with owners. shop or Kyela Commercial, situated just around the around the just situated Commercial, Kyela Inn Restaurant. There from Steak corner Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book rooms with either one or two large beds, beds, or two large rooms with either one 565117; [email protected]; Tukuyu Rd; s/d Rd; s/d 565117; [email protected]; Tukuyu mosquito nets, one small-ish bed and bath- mosquito nets, one small-ish Tsh6500) north from the Pattaya Hotel, this restaurant this restaurant Hotel, north from the Pattaya no steaks). meals (though has inexpensive SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS German era. There’sGerman no accommodation. ment thenameof Sphinxhafen during the lying justoffshore, which earnedthesettle- a (withsomeimagination) sphinxlike rock on theeastern lake shore. for It’salso notable themajormission hospital, healthfacility Anglican missionandthesmallSt Anne’s Liuli isthesite of anoldandstill-active Liuli facilities. tourist fromMatema.dugout canoe There are no elsewhere intheregion. It’sreached via women andsoldatmarkets inMbeyaand clay pots,which are madebythelocalKisi The tinyvillage of forits Ikombe isnotable Ikombe US$120 return, including waiting time). about US$70pervehicle oneway(about TukuyuandMatematransport between from Mission inTukuyucansometimesarrange to IpindaandonMatema. TheLutheran then headeastalongasignposted, badroad the mainroadfromTukuyutoKyelaand and witha4WD,it’salsopossibletotake Ipinda (notviaKyela).Duringthedryseason vehicle, the usualroute fromTukuyuisvia If youare headingtoMatema inyourown Car &Motorcycle fairly easytohire avehicle todrop you off. continue ontoMatema. FromKyela,it’salso Kyela toIpinda(Tsh1500), afew of which then several basic guesthouses. vehicle. Ifyouget stuckinIpinda,there are Matematween andIpindawithaprivate are better onweekends forfindingaliftbe- back toIpindaare inthemorning.Chances Ipinda forawhile. Departures fromMatema which towaitaroundin meansyou’llneed (Tsh1500, 35km),departingaround2pm, Ipinda, pick-upsrunsporadicallytoMatema of goldpiecesandcoinsduringWWI.From allegedlyGermans dumpedasmallfortune Masoko Crater intowhich Lake, fleeing of Tukuyuenroute toIpindaisthescenic go onlyasfarIpinda. About 20kmout going allthewaytoMatema, generally they driversAlthough theyare sometimessay bank(Tsh1500,bout byNBC twohours). around 8ammostmorningsfromtherounda- From Tukuyu,pick-upstoIpindaleave Bus 300 There’s alsoatleastonepick-updailyfrom OTENHGLNS • bna SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS••Mbinga For ferry connections with Nkhata Bay, For ferry connectionswithNkhata andItungiport,see Mbamba Bay p358 . change vehicles at Mbinga. (see p303 to youwillneed ), butotherwise There’s onedirect vehicle dailyfromSongea THERE&AWAYGETTING exploring thenearby shoreline. after thebridge, towards the beach. To get here, town through continuestraight attheNeema. Mealsthose canbearranged. the marginal pricedifference compared with theroomsaren’tbad, though really worth you enter town. To get here, turnleftjustbefore thebridge as watersiderooms, mealsandapleasant setting. Decent value,withvery basicbutadequate Neema Lodge SLEEPING &EATING Songea or Tunduma. pace ifyouhave travelling been inlandaround days waitingfortheferry orasachange of trees, itmakes agoodspottospendfew beach fringed bypalm,bananaandmango With itslow-key ambienceandattractive southernmost Tanzanian Nyasa. portonLake The relaxing outpostof isthe MbambaBay Bay Mbamba vehicles here. The mainpointsof interest are tochangelic transport,you’ll probably need producing areas. Ifyou’re travelling viapub- the heartof oneof Tanzania’s major coffee- route Songea in between andMbambaBay This smallbutprosperoustownliesen % MBINGA to take care of passport formalities. neartheboatlanding postoffice/police station tostopat theimmigration youwillneed Bay, an interesting loop. and Songea, which opensthepossibilityfor leading fromLituhisoutheasttowardsKitai only afootpath.There’s track alsoarough northwards, there isnoroadalongthelake, andfromLituhi transport andlittletraffic, LiuliandLituhithere isnopublic Between occasional 4WDstoLiulimissionstation. p354. see For details of ferry services between ofFor details ferry services Both placescanhelporganise boathire for Nyasa View Entering orleaving Tanzania viaMbamba northbound,From MbambaBay there are 026 (Mama Simba’s;rwithoutbathroomTsh7000)(Mama
(d withoutbathroomTsh7500) Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Also not
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS
301 This This Reaso- This once- . 026-260 2855, 0787- 026-260 0693; s/d 026-260 0693; s/d % % (
( 025-260 0892; r Tsh15,000)
(r Tsh22,000) The slickest budget op- budget The slickest
monastery % ( (dm Tsh3000, s Tsh5000) s Tsh5000) (dm Tsh3000,
Annex of Yapender Lodge Annex of Yapender About 30km west of town, in Peramiho, is town, in Peramiho, west of 30km About Angoni Arms Hotel White House Inn Don Bosco Hostel kept locked; ask for the caretaker, who lives who lives the caretaker, ask for locked; kept to the museum town, from get nearby. To tarmac road to the right the first take after in the Bomba Mbili neighbourhood, set set in the Bomba Mbili neighbourhood, Njombe road 200m from the back about and signposted. nice place has seen days, but is still better worth a look. Accommodation is in quiet bus stand. with small, clean, tion in the town centre, rooms with bathroom, and buckets no-frills From the bus stand, on request. hot water of the take head uphill 400m past the market, right for the sign for the Lutheran (watch first to the end and continue about 300m church) and It’s diagonally opposite lane. the dirt of Lutheran church. just past the your own transport, this is one If you have Rooms choices. budget the better-value of a restaurant small and clean, and there’s are seatingwith terrace serving tasty chicken and other meals (from Tsh1500). and chips town of the centre 2.5km north of It’s about mosquito nets, set a courtyard in a around the main road. just northwest of quiet area Nearby, advance order. with Food is available grounds, the hostel on the road leading into on bread you can buy fresh where ovens are head to the hostel, get weekday To afternoons. to uphill from the bus stand, past the market Go left and wind your building. the Tanesco church 400m to the Anglican way back about from is also signposted compound. The hostel Njombe road. the nably clean basic rooms and a central location hostel. the attractions at this church-run are the It’s two blocks off Food can be arranged. the Catholicmain road, diagonally behind from the walk and a five-minute church passing CRDB bank and continue about and continue about CRDB bank passing museum200m. The the left; entrance is on archway. pale-blue large, look for the Benedictinea large Sleeping BUDGET Anglican Church Hostel rooms with long-standing place has no-frills Tsh3000/3500, without bathroom Tsh2000/2500) Tsh3000/3500, 126414; s/d Tsh7000/8000)
Mbicu 8am-4pm 8am-4pm diagonally h
, which also has , which •• Songea SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Maji Maji museum cathedral (Soko Kuu) along (Songea Network Centre; per hr per hr (Songea Network Centre; , on a side street directly directly , on a side street market 7.30am-9pm)
026-264 0168; r Tsh12,000) 026-264 0168; r h , which is quite run down but never- is quite , which
% (
025 For accommodation and meals, try and meals, try For accommodation
About 1km from the centre of town, off the town, off the of 1km from the centre About Sights & Activities Sights & Activities the tomb of Chief Songea. The museum is The museum is Chief Songea. the tomb of Mon-Fri) Behind the museum interesting. is theless Njombe road, is the small but donation appreciated; (admission free the main road is worth a visit. The impressive the main road is worth a visit. The impressive carved on the wooden doors also worth a look, the bus stand are opposite paintings inside. the beautiful wall as are Songea’s colourful Songea’s Angoni Arms Hotel. Angoni or from Mozambique), is at the beginning of is at the beginning of or from Mozambique), the Tunduru Rd, about 400m up and opposite migration office (where you’ll need to get you’ll need to get migration office (where to travelling your passport stamped if you are Tsh1000; Tsh1000; cards only). There’s an internet connection at connection at an internet cards only). There’s ComputerValongo Centre NBC, on the street behind the market, changes NBC, changes behind the market, on the street cash, and both NBC and CRDB (at the begin- (Visa ATMs the Njombe road) have ning of Information from one of their greatest chiefs, who was who was chiefs, their greatest from one of (see rebellion Maji killed following the Maji 1km from town ) and is buried about p302 museum. Maji near the Maji ing the 19th century, subduing many smaller many smaller ing the 19th century, subduing its name takes tribes along the way. Songea main ethnic group here is the Ngoni, who the Ngoni, who is main ethnic group here from South Africa dur- into the area migrated yellow sunflowers and grazing cattle. The The and grazing cattle. yellow sunflowers bus station area, it’s a pleasant, attractive it’s a pleasant, attractive bus station area, surrounded streets, place, with shaded leafy with dotted by beautiful rolling hill-country 1000m in altitude, is capital of the surround- 1000m in altitude, is capital of seem and will probably ing Ruvuma region just come if you’ve metropolis a major like Bay.from Tunduru or Mbamba Away from the scruffy and crowded central market and % just over Songea, The sprawling town of SONGEA SONGEA and Lake Nyasa. and the large Catholic the pano- and cathedral the large Bay Mbamba down to road leading ramic Hotel Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book opposite the main market entrance. The im- entrance. the main market opposite a restaurant. It’s on the edge of town along town along of It’s on the edge a restaurant. road. Songea the SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS [email protected]; s/dfromTsh40,000/45,000)[email protected]; Just opened, this eight-room place isargu-Just opened, thiseight-room the Njombe Rd. dren. It’sabout3kmnorth of townalong behind andasmallplayground for chil- bar canget noisyonweekends), alawnarea and large bar-restaurant (roomsnearthe a popular modern, cleanroomswithTV, Tsh30,000/40,000) Cottage Heritage MIDRANGE GuestHouse Lika road. Tunduru about 1.5kmfromthemarket area, alongthe there’s It’s a restaurant withgardenseating. you hot-water buckets forwashing,and bring butstaff cutoff, has longsincebeen price).Thewater supply as wellforthesame grounds(there are afew larger, regular rooms ingreen bungalowsset doubles indetached 302 yaki area, andsignpostedjustoffthe yaki main road. minute walkdownhillfromthebusstandinMfaran- It’sasix- fanandparking. Small, cleanroomswithTV, Seed FarmSeed Villa Also recommended: would notbeharmed–hencethenameMaji( the Africans thatenemybulletswouldturntowater before reaching them,andsotheirwarriors villages were setonfire. Fatalities were undoubtedly exacerbated byawidespread beliefamong policy,inwhichfieldsandgrainsilosmany brought aboutbytheGermans’scorched-earth to Songeainthesouthwest.Inadditiondeathsonbattlefield,thousandsdiedofhunger on thecoast.SoonallofsouthernTanzania wasinvolved, andLindiinthesoutheast fromKilwa rebellion.combined toignite The firstoutbreak apowerful wasin1905thearea aroundKilwa, tions. Angeratthisharshtreatment andlong-simmeringresentment ofthecolonialgovernment were recruited asforcedlabourandrequired toworkunder miserablesalaryandlivingcondi- Salaam towardsMorogoro. These plantationsrequired large mostofwhom numbersofworkers, enormous cottonplantationsinthesoutheastandalongrailwaylinerunningfromDares It beganaroundtheturnof20thcenturywhencolonialadministratorssetaboutestablishing German EastAfrica, isconsidered tocontainsomeoftheearliestseedsTanzanian nationalism. The Maji rebellion, whichwasthestrongestlocalrevolt againstthecolonialgovernment in THE MAJI MAJI REBELLION anti-colonial sentiment, kindling themovementanti-colonial sentiment,kindling forindependence. uprising promoted development ofanationalidentityamongmanyethnicgroupsandintensified and replacement ofthemilitaryadministrationwithaciviliangovernment. More significantly,the beheaded theirmostfamouschief,Songea. to quellNgoniresistance onceandforall,Germantroopshangedabout100oftheirleaders style waruntil1908,whenthelastshreds oftheirmilitary-basedsocietywere destroyed.Inorder resistance totheGermans. Followingtheendofrebellion, theycontinuedtowageguerrilla- widespread. The Ngoni,atribeofwarriorsmuchfeared bytheirneighbours, putupthestrongest lives. Inaddition,large areas ofthesouthwere leftdevastated andbarren, andmalnutritionwas OTENHGLNS • oga SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS••Songea Among theeffects oftheMajiuprisingwere atemporary liberalisationofcolonialrule By 1907,whentherebellion wasfinallysuppressed, closeto100,000peoplehadlosttheir Thislarge, busyplacehas (MwasitiSt;s/dTsh10,000/15,000)
( % ( % 025-260 0888;NjombeRd;r/ste 025-260 2500,0752-842086;
with pastriesandinexpensive meals. TV and nets, set intranquilgardensurround- andnets,set TV with modern,spaciousandquietrooms hotelably themostcomfortable inSongea, a try. a plenty of timeatthelatter) are bothworth InnandAngoni ArmsHotel (allow House service. slow chicken and andchips andother standards, junction andthepostoffice, with snacks, road neartheTundumu–Njombe road h 5.30pm) Café Agape Eating in the grounds. further. Sometimescampingcanbearranged the signposted fromwhere turn-off, it’s200m of townalongtheTundumuRdfor2.5kmto an internet connectionisplanned.Head out and arestaurant (withadvanceorder),and Farm area. There’s asitting room withTV ings awayfromthetowncentre intheSeed maji Of thehotel restaurants, atWhite those Annex Heritage lunch &dinner) means‘water’ inSwahili). Just uphill from the Catholic church, JustuphillfromtheCatholic (Main Rd;snacks&mealsfromTsh1000,(Main
Attheupperendof themain
(Main Rd;mealsaboutTsh4000;(Main lonelyplanet.com h 8am- SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS 303 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Four-wheel drives to Songea also congre- Songea to drives Four-wheel in either direc- The road from Tunduru the rains, although thanks to recent rehabili- the rains, although to recent thanks at tation than it was. There’s work it’s better also a 4WD) least one bus (and sometimes depart- daily between Tunduru and Masasi, Between hours). five ing by 6am (Tsh8000, the main options are Tunduru and Songea, seven to go daily (Tsh17,000, 4WDs, which Tunduru between departing eight hours, by 6am), as well 3am and 7am and Songea dry season. as usually one bus in the If you staying at a guesthouse near the 4WD are to for the driver ‘station’ you can arrange There departure. you before come and wake so bring food and water is little en route, with you. and transit stop, and you’ll need to spend needand you’ll stop, and transit spend to between if travelling nightat least one here guesthouses The better and Songea. Masasi are There town. end of at the western are plenty to choose from from with rooms around all are to Tsh10,000; about Tsh3000 same standard. the town. Reserve end of at the western gate a in when you arrive seattravel for onward up quickly. fill Tunduru, as the vehicles tion is in rough especially during condition, SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS •• Tunduru
To Mbeya, Super Feo departs daily at 6am departs daily at Feo To Mbeya, Super
Transport to Mozambique departs from the Transport to Mozambique For Mbamba Bay, there’s one direct vehicle vehicle one direct For Mbamba Bay, there’s
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Masasi and Songea, is in the centre of an im- of is in the centre and Songea, Masasi with a bit region, portant gemstone-mining The town is also a truck a Wild West feel. of TUNDURU TUNDURU Tunduru, halfway between Dusty, remote Majengo C area, southwest of the bus stand of southwest C area, Majengo the main road – ask and about 600m in from throughlocals to point out the way the back information. more for p351 Seestreets. there on to Mbamba Bay (Tsh5000). During on to Mbamba Bay (Tsh5000). there needsthe wet season, to when the trip often prices rise. be done with 4WDs, hours). Otherwise, transport you’ll needhours). to get and from four hours) to Mbinga (Tsh3500, departing daily at 7am (Tsh8000, six to eight departing daily at 7am (Tsh8000, Njombe (Tsh7000, four hours). There are also are There four hours). Njombe (Tsh7000, and 3pm. to Njombe at 9.30am departures in each direction (Tsh12,000, eight hours) via eight hours) (Tsh12,000, direction in each (Tsh26,000); going with them as far as Iringa going with them (Tsh26,000); costs Tsh12,000. To Dar es Salaam, Scandinavian Express Express Salaam, Scandinavian To Dar es 12 to at 6am (Tsh27,000, departs daily also does this route Super Feo 13 hours). Getting There & Away Away There & Getting lonelyplanet.com