A14 - Lancaster Farming, Northern Edition, Saturday, September 14, 2013 www.lancasterfarming.com Locally Grown Grain Feeds Johnnycake Revival
Amy Halloran coveted material for millstones. The R.I., flint corn that Thornton- Sim New York Correspondent horizontal mill is 4 1/2 feet in diam- mons has been milling for 12 years. While the word “local” is driv- eter and sits in a building construct- Ralph Guild, who lives in Florida ing consumer interest in finding ed in 1886. The original mill at the but vacations nearby, owns Gray’s food close to home, New England- site dates back to 1696. Though the Grist Mill and renovated it in the mill now runs on electricity, the ers have a long history with another 1980s. dam that was part of operations was term — native. Pride in regional The demand for local foods has flood damaged in 2010, warranting products is deeply rooted in this part helped this grist mill, which also a considerable investment in resto- of the country, and when it comes gets a boost from the coffee shop ration. to food, one of Rhode Island’s most Simmons and his wife opened last The mill has been running for famous is jonnycakes. year. The shop is adjacent to the more than 300 years and began to The state has a few gristmills that mill, which is open for self-guided grind a dent variety of corn in the tours most anytime — guests can still grind corn for these emblem- 1930s when sources of the tradi- atic griddlecakes. johnnycakes are just unlatch the lower half of the tional flint corn became hard to find. double Dutch door and look at the made from white cornmeal grown “New England got out of growing in Rhode Island. framed photos and writing that de- grain for grinding,” Drumm said. scribe the history and equipment at Rainy days at the beach drive “There’s a lot of sweet corn, and some tourists to mills that operate hand. cow corn, but not suitable corn for Thornton Simmons keeps that primarily as museums, but Kenyon grinding.” Grist Mill is history that keeps hap- equipment in shape, taking apart the The mill has been in the Drumm 4-foot granite millstones in January pening. The West Kingston, R.I., family since 1971, and they used to mill is the site of a large Johnny or February and dressing them for get their corn for johnnycake meal another year’s work. At 1 1/2 tons Cake Festival in October, drawing from Maryland. 10,000 people. Spring and summer, each, the stones are demanding. “We found a nice family farm in A retired contractor and carpen- the mill hits the road for other festi- Virginia,” Drumm said “And they ter, he credits his father for lending vals and fairs, setting up booths to do a really nice job with the grain, Photo Kenyon’s Grist Mill him a natural mechanical aptitude, sell clam cakes and chowder and grow it without chemicals or pesti- Johnnycakes made from Kenyon’s stone ground corn meal are a Rhode and teaching him a lot. He learned clam cake and fritter mixes. cides, and plant a non-GMO seed.” Island favorite. “That’s the only way we can Now that more area farmers are milling by watching a video of the keep the little mills alive,” said Paul growing grain again, the family former miller at Gray’s. stores and online. Around the holi- greased,” he said. “All you have to Drumm, owner of Kenyon Grist is able to source some white flint “Must be in my blood,” Simmons days, orders come from Germany, do is add milk, you can add salt, but Mill. “Every old mill has something corn locally for jonnycake meal. laughs. “My ancestors had the first England, California and Florida. I don’t add any.” extra going for it.” They also mill wheat, rye and oats grist mill in Little Compton 1650 to The amount Simmons mills var- Some people add sugar to the bat- 1675.” Drumm named the Tuthilltown from a farm on Long Island, spelt ies from year to year, but ranges ter, which makes the edges a little The mill, and an associated saw- gristmill in upstate New York as an from Vermont or Pennsylvania, and between 1,000 and 1,200 pounds a crispier. Within the state, he said, mill, used to run on water. The next example; that mill used to survive Kamut from Montana. month in the summer. the type of cake varies. South Coun- source of power was an old Dodge on the specialty of grinding kosher “Historically millers were very “People have been looking for ty has one that is a little bit thicker flour. Kenyon Grist Mill developed motor and then a tractor. Now, a tightlipped, but since these mills gluten-free products,” he said. “It’s and softer in the center and there is their niche of clam cakes in the have gone out of business it’s more 10-horsepower electric motor sit- 1950s. Sales of clam cakes pushed ting under the flour mill powers it. kind of full circle. Corn took the another type called neither thick nor of an open-door policy,” Drumm place of potatoes in the 1600s. They thin. The old way of serving them demand for the mix, which is now said of his industry. The corn he mills sits refrigerated cooked jonnycakes three times a was just butter, but now people use as much of a signature product as Cooperation is more the name of in 50-pound bags until milling and the mill’s johnny cake meal and the game than competition. Gray’s is also refrigerated after milling. day, so it’s coming back into vogue butter and syrup. mixes. Grist Mill in Westport, Mass., at the “Supposedly, it’s the same strain again.” The meal is one of his favorite “People really fell in love with Rhode Island state line, has Ken- of corn that the Pilgrims got from Restaurants use the meal for jon- parts of milling, but he also enjoys them, and it exploded from there,” yon Grist Mill mix its pancake mix, the Indians,” Simmons said. “Uni- nycakes, Indian pudding and corn- the people the mill attracts. Drumm said, noting that the clam which is a blend of wheat, rye and versity of Rhode Island has im- bread. It’s also used to coat fried “I’ve met a lot of people really cakes and chowder are featured corn. proved it. The cobs at one time were green tomatoes and fish. interested in old mills,” he said. prominently at the Big E, the East- Gray’s Grist Mill makes mostly 4 to 6 inches and are now 12 to 16 Simmons said he never gets tired “I’ve learned quite a bit from people ern States Exposition. jonnycake meal, about 1,000 to inches.” of jonnycakes and has them once or coming in, even learned about my The stones for the mill are made 1,200 pounds a month. Farmer Har- In addition to the coffee shop, the twice a week. ancestors from people that came by of Westerly granite, which was a ry Records grows the Narragansett, meal and mix are available at local “The secret is the hot skillet, well the mill.”
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